Wall Insulation in old NZ houses
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ต.ค. 2018
- New Zealand houses are notoriously cold in winter and hot in summer. In recent years the issue of home insulation has been discussed more and more.
The ceiling and floors of our timber bungalows are easy enough. But in this episode we look at an option for insulating an exterior wall.
*****This is by no means a guide that you should follow without first consulting a professional. Special care must be taken to ensure 2 things: the exterior cladding is ventilated and the insulation is not exposed to moisture.
Music by Gurty Beats / gurtybeats
Disclaimer: These videos are intended to provide information and inspiration only. If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. Scott Brown Carpentry Ltd does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this TH-cam channel and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. To view full disclaimer, click here: www.scottbrowncarpentry.com/d... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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They used “wood casing” during war to save steel. Entire houses were wired in wood casing. Sadly im old enough to actually have put it in years ago. Nice vid, good to keep any worksite clean and dust free.
Timber conduit, never seen that before. Great video as always .
First time for me too bro!
My place in Canterbury, NZ has exposed timber conduit. The house was built in 1865 and electrical was retrofitted on top of the lard and plaster cladding.
Amazing videos! I love when you give explanation on why you do things the way you are doing it! Keep up the good work!
A builder that thinks about dust!!! If you are in Auckland hire this guy immediately and pay him well - he is rare unicorn builder.
Yeah, i wish he did my bathroom... current builders are pretty decent, but they could be better!!!!
🦄 🦄🦄🔨🔧📐🔨
cowboys are they Ned?
@@TakamiWoodshop nah, they are pretty good really.... But not THAT good!
Where did u get you low profile respirator? Not sure if it’s shown in this video but i have seen it in previous videos. Cheers
Hi Scott. Great video. I've started from episode 1 and have made it to here so far, watching a dozen or so every night :) About the insulation, one thing I've seen people use in the US and now that I am in Europe where the weather is like there with lots of rain, is they put one membrane behind the cold wall, then insulation, then another vapor barrier (different from the first one) and then plaster board. The first membrane is meant to prevent humidity from coming in but lets any that has made it there to get out. The second (inner) one is to prevent inside humidity (which is a lot from cooking to people breathing etc.) not to reach the cold surface as much as possible to prevent condensation and molding.
I did the same to my house using building wrap stapled inside the framing without knowing what i was doing to our 60's house that when you took off the plasterboard you could see sunlight.lol...keep up the cool videos helps us amateur builders
As always a nice video! You are an inspiration. Greetings from The Netherlands
I am a huge fan of your videos! In a situation like that, here in the US we would use spray foam, which is insulation and vapor barrier built into one, so it saves the wrapping step. PS. I have watched every one of your videos and learned a lot. I have one suggestion for you: you really need a cyclone for your Festool Dust extractor, like the Oneida AXD000009 Ultimate Dust Deputy. This will save you a fortune in vacuum bags. In my home shop, my cyclone is so efficient that I have never had to change my vacuum bag once. Virtually no dust makes it through the cyclone and into the filter.
Loving the videos Scott, keep up the good work mate!
Thanks!
You've done this the "Correct " way with building wrap. I staple the wrap to the underside of the top nog and the sides of the studs but on the bottom nog (or bottom plate) I cut it flush with the cladding, ie dont return it back towards the gib. This way any water will run down between the nog (or bottom plate) and the cladding rather than sitting on the nog. Hope that makes sense?
Steve, I believe the paper is to keep external moisture that may come through the cladding off the insulation? Not to stop moisture in the house escaping outside?
Clean respectful carpenters are hard to come by, my son is doing his level 3 carpentry and joinery at college and watches your channel too. I'm an electrician , I would have added some extra outlets whilst the plaster board is off. As always keep up the great work.
Where is your son studied his course?
@@jimbalu8933 WHAT IS INSTATUTION FOR YOU STUDY OF PROGRAME?
@@nnaheim. 😂 Wtf?
@@tmuxor WHY IS THIS UNDERSTOOD BY ALL UNEXPECTED OF YOU?
Loving that diagonal brace on the wall - real craftsmanship. Nowadays they would just chuck a few extra noggins in.
UK here - we'd probably have used foil faced rigid foam insulation between the studs and then foil tape over the seams and over the face of the studs too. Makes for an air tight wall that won't let moisture travel through either. Better insulator too.
Not sure foil insulation is legal here now in residential properties due to electrocution risks. However, foil backed insulation is a good product and my still be eligible.
Almost 20k subs good luck bro
lucky this is not a 100 year old house like mine in Welly! i usually apply borer treatment Tim-bor or metalex to my borer infested studs, etc. no mouse/rat droppings or rat nests too, so double bonus. i like the wrap you put on as i usually use building paper but it is slow to install. might pay to stick adhesive plastic film onto the carpet, then protect with drop cloths as well while doing the demo. the film will also stop the gibstopper creating a mess. as others have commented, i wonder whether the home owners have thought about installing some extra power outlets... nice to see you keeping the jobsite tidy too with the vac.
Thank you! very helpful
Great video thanks
20K Subs woooohooo well done
Closed cell spray foam is the best insulation available for this purpose but it is considerably dearer than batts and recently worksafe took jurisdiction of this activity and reclassified it so it comes under the code of practice for spraying isocyanates so all manner of hoops to jump through now
I operate a spray foam unit in my panel business and sprayed under the floor in my 1960s house last year - huge improvement, way less moisture in the house.
MBIE took control over exterior wall insulation because of the moisture control requirements of old houses and people simply not understanding the impact of incorrect application situations. Spraying directly onto weatherboards removes the air/drainage/ventilation of the cavity. Unless you understand the full impact of the materials and moisture control you can easily cause problems you don't even realise are happening until rot suddenly appears 5 years down the track.
Very interesting!😎
We would use ecotherm for the job which is a rigid board of insulation which cuts to size nicely and I think (don’t quote me) has more insulating properties than the woolen type, but only for external walls as it’s pricey here in the UK (about £50 for an 8x4 sheet)
Yeeeees!! on my lunch break now this has become a ritual bro grab my lunch find some shade and watch u guys lol now the vids finish I have another 22 mins to kill...time to talk shit with the boys lol keep up the good work u guys are hella good!
The note is in Tongan bro! And it happens to be Tongan Language Week in NZ. Malo 'aupito :)
very nice. cool
good video ,,, what i say in jobs like this ,,, "you cant make a silk purse out of a pigs ear" so you do your best with good materials and workmanship
That layer of building wrap is for windproofing in this application, not vapour barrier (as you stated). Vapour barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation (in cold climates on the inside), to prevent interstitial condensation of humid air from the conditioned space forming on the cold framing members (which is obviously bad). This is particularly critical when introducing changes that reduce air movement, like adding that wrap on the outside and filling the voids with insulation.
Would you do something similar with underfloor boards??? Would the wind barrier be worth the effort? But obviously building wrap on the bottom side of insulation layer.
@@LukeSimshauser yes, that's what I did with mine. From top down: OSB, vapour control layer, mineral wool insulation between joists, windproof membrane.
So does that mean they will need another layer wrap covering the insulation before putting the plaster board on?
Hi Scott, I did the identical job back in 2014. Installing the building wrap and insulation exactly as you have done in the video. My house has the same framing and external weatherboards. I was wondering whether the new 20mm gap that'd being advised is necessary. I'd hate to think there would be issues with my/our installation method. I guess with the bevel backed weatherboards and breathable building wrap there should be enough airflow to wick away moisture. Any thoughts? Cheers, great job!
For that I’d look at using themoline plus plasterboard. It’s a vapour barrier and incredible insulation in one hit.
i wish all tradies were like Scott
In France we put the vapor barrier on the hot side. So against the drywall. Either it's already attached to the insulation or you have to put one.
Awesome vid :) can i ask what brand building paper you used here?
Are all NZ house timber structures? Love the vids fun and practical 👍🏼
Wood condition is a first for me dude,and your approach is the best way without removing the siding, some might say spray foam, But we don’t use a lot of that where I’m at because it doesn’t get that cold and it makes it impossible to snake wires in the future and maintenance on the word becomes nightmarish too, But I would’ve did it exact same way you did.
Side note, paerau doing big things rocking the festool shirt😎👏🏽
*wood. Conduit
We might have similar clinates bro, it doesn't get to cold in Auckland, it might hit 0 degrees Celsius 1 or 2 days a year.
PS Paerau hitting the big time ! He's got the Festool hoodie as well 🙂
😎😂
Any plans to insulate the ceilings? It's a crucial part of keeping the house warm, I would start there first before the walls. Usually hard to get to but will provide the greatest thermal benefits.
Love the channel!! Can you do the same with plaster over brick?
I have a circa 1960 timber house in Turangi and all the plasterboard needs replacing so I thought OK good time to insulate the external walls. Direct fix weatherboard with building paper already in situ. But wait, a Building Consent is required. Taupo council would charge around min $500 for app plus two inspections at $100 ea plus code of compl cert at $1000. And the CCC won't be issued unless all the plasterboard is fixed, stopped and finished. So you do have two years to complete the work but because of bracing you can't really do a room at a time over that time frame get an insulation inspection then button up the Pb. So its really cost prohibitive to retrofit insulation in external walls for the home owner wanting to do it themselves. I understand the importance of doing this to code but I consider it low risk for direct fix cladding. Whats bizarre is that council will let companies inject fluff through holes in the cladding from the outside and give them an exemption from the building consent process. To me that has greater risk since the vapour barrier is penetrated for every void between studs and nogs in a wall. Any thoughts Scott?
Hey Scott,
We've just bought an old weatherboard house in chch with ceiling and floor insulation but no wall insulation. what are your thoughts on the spray insulation in exterior walls? We're not thinking of doing any adjustments to external walls (maybe replace a weatherboard or two) but it looks like a significantly cheaper alternative than stripping, insulating and relining.
I find it a bit wierd that you dont put the waper barrier the other way, so that it is facing the outside. But I got to admit its a joy in my hart to see such a clean job site
Hi Scott, do you normally straighten the walls too?
Did you consider open cell foam? It would stop air movement, but still allow vapor movement. Obviously, it may not be in the budget and would still need water protection, but is a good option.
I wonder what the electrical consequences are now with cable/fuse ratings now that the wiring is encapsulated in the new insulation.
I think I lived in the street where your intro of the house being demolished was. Sad to see practically the entire street disappear.
Omg that job looked a right ball ache to do, hope you priced it well 🔥🔫
For all the folks saying spray foam it would have to be a closed cell spray foam for it to create a vapor barrier. Open cell is useless for that. Check out intello smart vapor barrier too. That’s where it’s at.
If your having sound issues can you use Wavebar insteading of the building wrap?
I was curious if it would been more cost effective to just spray in closed cell foam. Would add very good insulation and vapor barrier.
NICE SB
wow that bird and is nest are 70 this year- same as my ol dad
Incredible how that native timber holds up ae. Untreated, uncoated, unless it has persistent moisture on it, it behaves like the day it got cut from the forest.
Us here in Ireland we would add a insulated sheet off plaster board with the plaster board attached to it do you not have that where you are
i always thought the purpose of stapling building wrap this way is to prevent moisture laden heated internal moisture condensing on the back of the cold weatherboards and in turn dampening the batts ....not driven rainwater
Hi. I was told buy an old carpenter that the older houses need to be able to breath IE have ventilation up the walls incase it gets wet for some reason, because the wood was not treated and would start to rot if you insulated it.
Would you reccomended getting insulation that gets pumped into the walls?
I found it astonishing and hilarious the number of comments from people overseas in completely different climates saying what would be better methods. All that tells me is they really don't undertsand what they're saying. But hey, TH-cam right?
We are just about to insulate the walls in our 1969 house in Richmond, Nelson. We have been told by the council we need to leave a 20mm gap between the building paper and rimu weatherboards. Apparently this spec was revised in 2016 to avoid weatherboard root over time. What have you been doing these days?
In Canada the moisture barrier actually goes on the warm side. So dries to the outside but...I don't know how you would do it with the cladding exposed like this.
Scott if u go to potters and you can get floor protect plastic and it will save the carpet
Good call
Sprayfoam would be my first choice and rigid foam insulation would be second. Sprayfoam would be fast but dearer than rigid foam.
Does insulating exterior walls like that (with building paper inserts) generally require consent?
wood fibre boards insulation would be better; they can work without a wrap; they are vapour permable; they have high specific heat so they will store energy (heat or cold depending on the season) regulating and lowering temperature variation; they will also regulate humidity; they are easy to work with and can be cut to fit the gaps; make sure the plaster is airtight and connected to flooring and ceiling properly; i would use clay plasters cause they are highly vapour permable and would work great with wood (can be also bought in boards just like plaster board)
Nothing like finding some old xxx mags in the wall. Had that last year instead of a Tongan letter 🤣
Good video my bro, I’ve been in the Reno side of things for a while, great to see some content like this from nz. Just want to ask if or when you install the building wrap in the walls, if you bother using a 20 mm square bead, to nail 50 mm galv flatheads nails right round the frame, two nails each corner then nail off 2/3 nails each side, then staple of b.paper tightish. this is suppose to allow air between the native and the builders wrap. Some thing about native framing is it needs to still be able to breath some how.and dry out. As you mentioned the builders paper is just to protect the insulation.
Otherwise mean guys.
I know that seems like a bitch but the framing has always had an air cavity and by eliminating that by insulating, the walls start to do all sorts of funny things, then your a couple years down the track and the client is noticing cracks in gib or cladding rotting in areas.. This is of course if the home owner paints and maintains the cladding, weather shouldn’t be getting in, but the paint stops any moisture it does soak up to escape hence the air cavity.
THIS! is one of the main reason you require a permit to insulate the exterior walls in a house. Insulation is one of those things that is easy to assume you're doing it right without a second thought, yet so easy to get wrong with potentially catastrophic (literally) long term consequences.
Nice, I just did this myself to our 100 year old bungalow, insulation nowhere to be seen
Good video Scott but I was very disappointed to see that you two weren't dressed up as American framing carpenters in this episode. I do hope you're going to address the situation for plasterboarding episode.
I look forward to it with eager anticipation. 👍
They would need to hang the American flag up first.
As an American I think it's hilarious how job sites need to raise a flag up until the jobs done.
readyset Actually? Is that just a tradition, or do you have to? Most people don't own NZ flags so that would be pretty difficult here haha
On the large job sites they have flags draping over the walls or a makeshift flag pole. This article below explains about the tradition was brought over by the Scandinavian Immigrants. But the flag now is used to show that it's an American Union Job site. I have seen the American flag on wooden framing jobs, from time to time..
www.nytimes.com/1984/10/21/realestate/the-hoary-tradition-of-topping-out.html
Interesting!
Very interesting !
Have you considered a foils based insulation such as superquilt? It can act as a vapour barrier as well. Used in the uk. Also PIR board is another option but thicker.
Foil insulation illegal in nz. Considered electrocution rusk. Yes seriously.
I grew up in a a house where every interior wall was heavily insulated, now every place I lived in since feel so freaking loud! More builders need to consider noise!
NZ Carpenter here.
I've always been told we need to have a 20mm air gap between the cladding and insulation when retrofitting insulation? So your retrofit wall would go, cladding, 20mm gap, synthetic vapor barrier, insulation, then linings.
But I can't find any photographic evidence supporting the 20mm gap as necessary and I see in your video there was no gap added. I've heard that it's only needed as a supposed failsafe if moisture gets in. Some people even say just retrofitting with the synthetic barrier and no air gap is fine as moisture shouldn't get in anyway.
Thoughts?
doesnt it seem like the water could still travel around the wood and get inside? theres still a gap where you stapled the WRB to the square members
In denmark we have that type of paper barrier between the skeleton and the facade, then a thick layer of insulation, then a "plastic" vapor barrier on the "inside" of the skeleton, then another thin layer of insulation.
This works great in all normal-humidity climates where air conditioning is not present in the house. It tends to work in bone-dry climates as well. The more air conditioning, the worse it works for wooden buildings, because it draws water vapor in from outside which condenses at structural members and rots them.
@@TrogdorBurnin8or hasn't caused any problems here. The vapor barrier protects the skeleton
In Denmark you don't need that much Air-conditioning
that's not for you to decide lol
The problem is moisture/condensation buildup between the warm/cold sides of a wall "sandwich". In cold climates the vapour barrier goes on the inside of the sandwich. If it was on the outside, condensation would buildup on the inside surface and ruin the effectiveness of the insulation AND cause mold buildup in the wall. In warm/tropical climates the vapour barrier goes on the outside for the exact same reasons but the warm/cold (A/C) is the opposite way round. In temperate climates like NZ a vapour barrier creates more issues than it solves.
Old?! Maaaate, ya' dreamin'! My place is a pre-1920s house; and at some point we'll have to look into what is in behind the lining too. Was interested to see how you retro-fitted the building wrap, i'd seen some product guides that said you could do it that way, so good to know that its an option. Only problem with my place is i'm pretty sure its plasterboard over that horizontal planking (sarking?) everywhere so will be a nightmare to do.
1920's Christchurch here, all lathe and plaster, you could feel drafts coming from everywhere. We redid the 3 bedrooms just like this and saved $100 a month on the power bill. Back then they made the outside wall straight and used the lathe and plaster to make the inside straight. So our walls were 10-15mm out, took a while to shave and pack it straight again. I highly recommend it
Have you thought about drilling holes in the plaster and pumping it with expansion foam ?
worst idea ever. that practice should be banned.
Over in the uk we would have to use 150 mm foam insulation board with foil normally 100mm between and 50mm over top then plaster board
These kiwis seem to live in upgraded sheds.
Most kiwi men have a shed that is way more deluxe than their house. We have our priorities right 😁
would advice a vapor-closed barrier on the inside , because vapor travels from the inside to the outside of the building .
It doesn't get very cold in NZs mild climate to require vapour barriers here I believe. The wrap is meant to prevent moisture getting to the insulation and let the back of the cladding dry out. This cavity system is now required on most new residential builds as per the NZ building code
Nicely done! However, you mention "wicking in of moisture". That's very unlikely. Moisture in insulation comes invariably from the INSIDE. The inside air is warmed and carries the moisture from people breathing, water use in the house, cooking, washing etc. Then it goes through the warm walls, and cools down as it migrates out through the insulation. At some point, the air temperature inside the insulation is going to be below the dew point of the migrating air. That means the air can no longer carry the amount of moisture it has absorbed. This is when the insulation gets wet!
To avoid that, there needs to be a VAPOR barrier on the inside of the insulation, so the room air cannot get into the insulation at all. For reasons beyond me, people continue to consider internal paint and plasterboard to be vapour proof... they certainly are NOT!
So you should put a vapour barrier, e.g. polyethylene sheet, on the walls before the plaster board.
I have actually repaired a ceiling that fell in from not being able to carry the weight of the water in the insulation - purely absorbed through the paint and plaster from the inside of a kitchen dining area....
It is MBIE that soecifies the external wrap to be moisture barrier. Yes I know. But it is the law
Also isn't supposed to be pressed against external wall
Talking about what you find behind walls...im currently doing a bathroom job in a flat that's about 15 years old and today when I removed the gyproc I found a 15 year old bottle of piss🤢
lol ! original builder not happy with the client I guess.
Rob Trautvetter - Takami Woodshop -- He must have been hoping for an earthquake to smash that bottle.
We found an '83 Playboy in the ceiling space last week. Much better than a bottle of piss😆
Woah, glad I found a box of matches
Why not use pir or pur foam insulation? You do not need the barrier.
We use it alot here in Belgium
Why not build Houses out of oil?
I haven't used that before, looks like a good option
Scott Brown Carpentry I have seen another TH-cam channel where he uses PIR foam but to achieve a tight fit he cuts the board about 10-20mm short on all sides and fills the rest with expanding foam... easier than trying to friction fit a rigid board between existing framing. Not cheap though
Matthew Barbour was that risinger builds video? Rigid foam and closed cell foam around it? Water proof and way higher r value. Nz is decades behind Europe and the u.s. hopefully one day we’ll switch on
Jordan T yea that’s the one. NZ has a very low bar set by the building code. People need to keep in mind that this is the minimum allowable to pass the minimal standards. Cost is a massive part of this in NZ however. I’m sure everyone would want a super insulated house but few can afford it and opt for size over quality in most cases.
The matches still lit so not much need for a vapor barrier.
This kind of logic is the problem that means you need a building permit for doing this. The matches being ok could also mean that wall cavity is ventilating any moisture that is getting in, both of which will definitely be happening. The point is, you don't know.
My place is built like that but I was lucky enough to have building paper through out. Didn’t have wooden conduit in the walls though, only in the ceiling cavity. It’s got two channels in it to seperate the neutral from the phase.
If the original wiring is still there u need a rewire, if neutral and active are separate it's vulcanized indian rubber covered in coloured cotten.
Super cool to see how these places were wired back in the day..
@@nathanbedford3443 whole has has been rewired, replumbed, relocated and double glazed now 😇
@@benhainsworth1247 good to hear.
Those old houses are notorious aren't they - the one I grew up in was noisy as hell on the main road (Great South Rd) with no insulation above, below or in the walls and with drafty wooden windows. Sadly - decades later - as we see in today's video that is still the case for a lot of NZ homes. LOL how your clients wait until the end of winter to get it done - or I guess they just bought the place and found it's too damn cold?
Not everyone has a cushy job like you Rob! gotta wait for those illusive briscoes sales on insulation... plus maybe the builder had some spare time from a job that fell through and gave them a good deal ;) hahaha
lol - that might be it Ned.
Same as our house in papakura.That's what made us hard . Nowadays I live in a central heated house in the UK now I'm soft and old 😂
The house I bought that was built in the 40s, zero insulation and the wiring was shit, but they are Typically well framed and as long as the foundation is good the last forever.
My house is about 16 years old and the ceiling insulation was shit already when we moved in. I had to do it again - the wall insulation is probably crap as well.
I use closed cell spray foam insulation, you don’t need a vapor barrier after 2 inches, it is very expensive though.
You wouldn't want to spray foam on the back of the cladding (weatherboards) as it will prevent them from drying out if they get wet. They need air movement on both sides to prevent rot. It could also seep through any gaps and that would be a mess to clean up.
The problem with this house is there's no sheathing on the exterior walls, so the only thing between the insulation and the great outdoors is the cladding, which isn't designed to be a barrier at all (you need air movement behind the boards) and they expand and shrinks with the weather, creating gaps for wind and moisture to enter. That's why they installed the wrap into the wall cavities. In most places, you'd also add a vapor barrier to the interior side of the insulation, to prevent the warmer, humid air inside the building from condensing into the insulation and causing mold. From what I've read, NZ building codes and practices are quite far behind North America and Europe, in part because materials are very expensive there. That's one of the reasons these videos are so enjoyable - seeing how Scott solves problems with the resources at hand.
@@dougvankirk1332 can i ask you sonething. I want to insulate the roof deck with blown in fiberglass. We have unvented attic roof( no sofit vent nor ridge vent) but attic rooms is heated and live with people. We live in nyc, climate zone 4a, will blown in fiberglass into roof deck cause any problems?
Is it possible to work from the outside in? As in, remove the cladding, install the insulation, install the paper barrier, re-install / reuse the cladding. This way, you don't need to redo the plastering and reduces dust even more because you're working from the outside?
But I'm not a builder, I don't know if this method is feasible.
Would cost a huuuge amount more. As Scott said, rimu weatherboard would cost a fortune these days if you could even get it, and they would probably split removing them. Plasterboard is cheap.
Way more effort. Not to mention the fact you then have to worry about making the home weather tight every afternoon also. But if the client is after an updated exterior then you can certainly go down this route. We just resided an existing home with new vertical cedar and new windows and also added insulation to the home for the first time too.
Do you ever worry about asbestos?
My whole house is rimu... but is 105 years old... lol and I have a few of timber conduits as well...
All the rimu I use in my videos is recycled... :-/ I can't affor new stuff... lol
Can rimu even be harvested anymore?
Attics in the US will often have a wooden conduit running across the rafters. But I’ve never seen one in a wall
Rimu (is a slow growing red pine) can still be harvested to a very small limit, and you have to a special milling license to do so... All the rimu I have and use in my videos is recycled. I can't afford new stuff... lol
Possibly the original building wasn't lined on the inside. Parts could be older than thought.
Spray foam insulation. Vapor barrier is built right in!
Not in NZ. Vapour barriers in walls cause moisture problems in our climate.
damn that rimu looks so nice. should have left it exposed
Lol beautiful stuff for sure!
I would use rock wool in that instance. I use that in our 1800s homes in Boston. It doesn't accept moisture, and should any get into it it doesn't get molding, saves me from putting in vapor barrier.
Patrick PATRICKS, I’ve been looking at that rock wool. Do you prefer using it over our traditional pink fiberglass insulation?
Patrick Houser I hate the pink stuff!
Rock wool cuts very easily with a bread knife so it’s easy to cut out for specific cavity sizes plus it is not irritating on the skin. You can leave the bags outside in the rain, just let them dry off before u install, you can NOT do that with pink. This is convenient when u have limited material space.
That definitely sounds appealing. it seems no matter how well I try to cover myself up when doing insulation installs I always end up with some in my arms or my neck.
I've heard that rock wool is resistant to mold and everything. I wish I'd known that around the time I redid most of my house from a hurricane. I would have installed it instead.
What is rockwool made out of? The pink batts glass insulation is mostly used in NZ, these days there are a few more options but we are way behind on insulation in general. Is it a recycled plastic material?
Basalt rock and chalk. That's basically it, it's essentially stone that is melted down and "spun" like cotton candy to form the batts. It's mold resistant, fire resistant, doesn't use any fiberglass. It sounds pretty much amazing, but if I remember correctly it's about twice the price of the fiberglass stuff. But then again, there's a lot of benefits to it.
that part at 0:13 where you jumped in the left lane turning right on Ladies Mile tells me a lot about you Scott Brown :P especially with a green left and a red right hahaha
Ned the lane police. Takes one to know one? @Scott - making sure people are using the correct lane is one of his things. 😜
@@TakamiWoodshop haha, nah, i do the same :P and in his case it was actually fine as there were other people already waiting haha but if i ever pull into that lane wanting to turn right, and people pull up behind me turning left i feel like a real dick as i hold them up hahaha
White van drivers and taxi specials.
😂😂 I love it
Close to home there Ned!
Only two outlets / one per wall? I'm surprised the wiring didn't get upgraded with a gut out job.
It's the worst to come back and redo all the plasterboard, when the client cut up the walls for wiring..
That is obviously all the owner wanted. It's up to the owner what kind of upgrade they want, and clearly here they just said insulate. If they want more outlets they instruct the builder to get an electrician in. NZ'ers and Aussies are quite a weird breed, they try and save money in the silliest ways. I have seen brand new houses with only one single outlet on the walls because they owners wanted to save pennies.
I still cant belive it is a requirement to have an outlet in a fixed island. So the builders i work for only do floating islands.
@@fscarp i understand why. And then the builders only do floating islands. So the crock pot on the island is still gonna happen.
@@fscarp none. They just want that first awe factor. Looks good but its a bunch of dookey. They are now putting the money into LEDs and bathroom fixtures. Cheep granite or quartz. Kitchen cabinets are now even cheaper. I would only put about 5 lbs a shelf or your gonna have problems.
Scott!! Where's ya RZ dust mask??
Lol! I like the full respirator when I'm dealing with the reeeally messy stuff
In Mother Russia, house insulates you.
nothing beats 50+ cm exterior wall
Shouldn’t vapor barrier be on the inside of the insulation and wind barrier between the cladding and the isolation?
btw that paper barrier is what we call wind barrier, only thing im missing is the vapor barrier between the insulation and the plasterboard
We dont use vapour barriers in NZ
What about asbestos?
You should get your name sign written on the side of your van!
Thinking about it , maybe in the future
Pink batts has now become gray batts ????
in ireland garden shed has more insulation than that house!:)
@@DiscoFang so why is he insulating it then :)
Do you guys have spray foam in nz??
I think so, I haven't seen it on site though
It’s expensive
that stuff is toxic during fires, wool bats insulation is the way to go
Haha saw that house at the beginning it is gone now 😋
What kind of vacuum was that?
Festool!
Festool =(
Yep^ Festool Midi , great vac
I knew this would be a well done job when I saw the Festool dust extractor!
My Dad likes to leave a name, date and address of the main pub he goes to whenever he closes something in just incase somebody in future opens it up and finds it.
100mm foil back board and foil tape if it could fit it in