Get the PERFECT setting on your Laser using my Universal Test Card!
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As always Rich, a great video, the first video I see of yours showed up when I did a search on TH-cam and have watched many of your videos over the last few weeks. Have also joined your Patreon Page today as I want to keep on following you. Keep up the good work and thank you for yours videos and information. Its all great
Welcome aboard Paul, and thank you! I updated the UTC! Here's the new QUICK Version 8: th-cam.com/video/ZwR2ILwnYlA/w-d-xo.html
Your channel is the best I have found for getting started in this hobby. Subbed and joined the forum. Now I need more hours in a standard day to do everything I would like, :)
Awesome, thank you Rich!
I think I should write on every video how much I learn from you. I am just amazed by your knowledge and that you are sharing it with all of us.
Just joined your fb group.
Thank you!
We're all learning as we go Krastyo! Thank you for watching!
You have no idea how much work you have saved us. Fantastic idea indeed. I had to subscribe.
Thanks for the sub! Welcome aboard!
Great insights, I have just bought a outur laser master pro s2, this video has given me great insight on how to dial in my setting for my machine, subscribed, will log into you forum next, thank you
Great to hear Craig!
I started learning lightburn last night. I have been watching your videos all day today. You don't make videos that are too lengthy... You make them easy to learn. I feel totally confident I'm going to burn something amazing tomorrow because of you. Thank you.
Wow, thanks Sonia!
More great information, thank you Rich. This video filled in the gap for me between using Lightburn and sending the etch/cut job via the Web User Interface which was a vital part that I did not catch in your Ortur LM3 review. 👍😊
I hope you are feeling better, there seems to be a lot of nasty stuff going around this fall!
Shane
Glad it helped!
Rich, you are a superb teacher. Your reassuring style, gentile encouraging voice, quality of input....the length is great not a burden. Thanks for your mission
Wow, thank you!
You have an outstanding teaching style! You have helped THIS newbie tremendously! Thanks for your work!
You're very welcome Tom!
I agree with Tim. Great teaching skills 👏🏼
Great video very informative thanks for taking the time to explain the concept so well👏👍
My pleasure Trevski!
Thank you SO much for this one Rich, just in time. I just ran my first test card like minutes before I saw you posted this and it came out terrible, all burnt black with the ridges like you described. Now I know what to do and can’t wait to do a re-do. I had no idea how this worked until you explained so perfectly. As always, I thank you for posting!😊Mike
You're most welcome Mike! Have fun!
You, Dear sir, make TH-cam worth it!
Thanks a million for these videos!
Wow, thank you!
So glad I found your channel. Great style and info, thanks.
Awesome, thank you Mike!
Just getting started you have been a huge help. Thank you.
Glad to help!
Back to the shop. Will 3d print a box for test item keeping. Long videos are better than many of the other site quick ones.
Thanks
Great idea! And hey, I updated the video! Here's the new QUICK version: th-cam.com/video/ZwR2ILwnYlA/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for your thorough explanation.
Glad it was helpful Mark!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skills! This was exactly what I was looking for today for my new CO2 laser!
Glad it was helpful Jen!
This video came right on time. Thank you!
So glad to hear that Natasha! I'm working on a real quick update right now, so look for that one today as well!
I've had my Ray 5 for almost a week now. Still waiting on a lot of the other things I've ordered to show up. Came across your videos just searching for some knowledge. I start out watching the video thinking I'll never learn this but before it's over it's like ok I think I'm getting it now. Have to watch some a couple times but I'm just slow sometimes. Thanks fo what you do to help noobes like me.
Awesome! Thanks Joe. I know, I ramble a lot, but that's who I am Brother!
Great video, thanks Rich, awesome. A pretty good laser that one.
Thanks for watching!
Wow thanks Rich for another great video, funny thing, yesterday I was doing that on some 5mm Baltic birch on my atomstack a5 pro +, sounds like the longerray and atomstack are pretty close, I do like the other features that the longerray has, maybe my next laser but I do want a dual diode laser. Take care my friend and I talk to you soon.
At first glance, the two seem very similar. I haven't done much other testing yet Jim.
Great Video - I actually have a Ray5 - Now I have decent "starting" points to start doing these tests. My initial burns were just having fun with my new machine/hobby.
I'm having fun with it! Love the Wi-Fi Bob!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i haven't tried that yet. I'm not sure what web app you are using
Totally focused haha! Needed that one!
😊
Awesome tutorial and explained very well! One thing I learned (finally) was what the "Straight Flex cut" and "Parabolic Flex cut" were for in this vid. It always stumped me lol. One question: Are the circles/squares to be able to measure the actual cut dimensions against the Lightburn file measurements? I can see this being very important for critical fitment measurements. Thanks again Rich!
Yes, and they also have another purpose, to see if the laser cuts in every direction equally at any size Adam.
I also have my laser in the garage, and work from my home office, with a $20 wifi baby monitor so I can keep an eye on the laser to make sure there are no fires or other problems without me being in the garage. I also get plenty of steps in trekking back and forth loading and unloading wood in the laser.
🤪 I try not to be away from it, but I do have an IP camera and I can watch in the app if I need to go inside for anything.
Hi Rich, this is another very good video. And I have a small Tip for you. If you show the console in Lightburn, you can equip the macro buttons with commands. Just right-click and label. Now you add the commands G92 X0 Y0 and below $10=0 then confirm with OK...oh so...set label with zero point or something...if you now push your laser head into your lower left corner and then run the macro, the laser is enulled again and you don't have to turn the laser off and on every time. Greetings
Thanks Sam! I do use the Macros a lot. You'll see in some of my older videos with the shop computer, Use Laser, Use CNC, Kill Alarm, etc. But really, you shouldn't need to home but once if your machine is tuned well, when you turn it on.
Thanks for the update
You bet Denny!
Another informative video. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful John!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy every video you make, I learn something from.
Your videos are great!
I appreciate that!
Hello Sir. Greetings from Lithuania. Last week, I found your video and I think you're an astonishing content creator. Like, subscribe 100% 😉🤟
Welcome aboard Gintaras! Thank you so much for the kind words! 👍
Have just run the circle test in conjunction with this video and after two attempts I have what I believe to be excellent results/settings for my laser. Not in a million years would I have reached this point without your help. So thanks again. One quick question where did you get the honeycomb bed clips from looks like a great idea. Also the air scrubber is great
The pins are free in my online store, engraveandcutfiles.com. The little soldering air scrubber link is in the description.
Another informative video. My comment is too long, but trying to pack too much into a couple paragraphs, in case you want to provide some insights I wouldn't get if I didn't share. Too many things to learn but I am working through your videos.
I am having a couple challenges based on my lack of experience and what to expect. One is how to adjust my settings (reasonable ball parks) because your videos and other videos out there focus a great deal on hobby diode lasers. I agree with you from my experience in other adventures, that it will require an investment in time and materials to dial it in, my challenge is patience and getting in the right ballpark because of my lack of experience. I can burn up a lot of time and materials without more experience.
I always jump in with both feet it seems. Instead of starting and playing with a diode laser, I bought a Laguna EX Laser for my first laser, it is advertised as a 150W Laser, I think the tube is actually 130W. Laguna indicates that maximum power setting for the machine should be 80% (assuming 130W that is about 104W - not sure but that's my estimate). I did this because I wanted the ability to do everything I could.
I am starting to wonder if I will be able to do everything. It seems like it will burn like crazy, but will I be able to fine tune the engravings and photo imaging etc. I worry about this because there is a low power setting in which the laser tube won't fire, I was told that is somewhere between 8%-10%. The maximum speed they tell me to limit my machine to is 500 mm/sec and shouldn't go over 550 mm/sec because it will stress the machine. Based on the speed and low power limits I worry if I will be able to fine tune the artsy type of stuff I want to do. I will burn a few test cards to see what i see.
BTW, I saw in this video and other videos of yours, that is you pull your design off the bed, it doesn't show on your preview monitor and won't burn. That is not what happens on my version of LightBurn (newest version) for my laser. When I preview, I see everything, both on the bed and off. I wonder if there is a setting for my CO2 laser that I need to change on preview. More importantly that I need to change so it won't try to burn on my laser.
BTW, I have watched enough of your content and respect the amount of energy you are putting into this channel. So I will become a Patreon person soon. Thank you for everything.
Too much to answer in a YT comment! But feel free to copy and paste to my free forum, where you can plenty of answers! This is the reason I created it! lahobbyguy.com/bb/
We have over 9,000 members there, and you'll get a variety of answers for sure!
I am a complete nooby!. Thanks for another interesting video Rich. I don't know how I would have coped with my new Longer RAY5 without your channel. I have subscribed and registered in your site. It's absolutely full of useful information so thanks again. Do you have a link to the honeycomb bed you have for this laser or the dimensions? I have been looking at 400x400 but wondered if that size would be too close to the limits. Yours looks an ideal size for the machine. Thank you Rich and keep up the very good work.
Yes John, it's 400x400, and the links to everything I talk about are in the description: amzn.to/3QJueGG
Big Ups again brother! Immense help!
Happy to help! Thanks! 👍
Muy bueno, muchas gracias
Ya me he suscrito a tu canal y a tu web, es fabulosa
GRACIAS
Welcome aboard!
Great video.
Thanks for the visit Monty!
Love your videos! Thank you for all you do for us new to laser engraving. I had one quick question. For the wheel test you address at around 11:00, Do you always run it at 100% Power and just mess with the speed? Or can you adjust the Power on the setting too?
I usually do run them at 100% power with a diode laser Trevor, but it depends on the laser. On a Co2, I'll start out at about 50%.
Thanks Rich this is exactly what i have been looking for. now i can find those sweet spots on my 15pro and my pro s 2. Do you want to run at 100% for the first card? i do not ever run my machines at a 100% . Do not worry about the length of your videos friend, some folks like my self need all the instruction we can get.
Yes I do Jim. I run most jobs between 80-100% power. The whole scare about running at 100 is blown out of proportion if you ask me. Yeah, on the Co2 you can't do it, but on the diode? It doesn't affect the life all that much. I have 4-year-old diodes that did production most of their life and still run the same files with the same results.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks rich you always give great info. This is going to change a few things , if I don't need to worry about the life of my diode my cut settings are going to change😂🤣👍. Have a great day sir. I will be downloading and running some test after church. Cheers
Thanks
Thanks so much for the support @hghdat 👍
another great instructional video! I did kind of the same but only a test table. What honeycomb bed do you recommend for cutting? Thanks!
Whichever one you get Jason, make sure it's steel and not aluminum. You want to be able to use magnets instead of pins.
Thanks!
Thank you for the support!!
More great content Rich... thank you. You run your diode lasers at 100% power. My understanding is that this will have a dramatic effect on the life of the laser module, reducing its life span considerably. What are your thoughts?
A Co2 is dramatically affected by the power, the diode not so much. Yes, of course it will shorten the lifespan some, but not by much on the diode.
Nice thank you
Thank you for watching Keith! I updated the video! Here's the new QUICK Version 8: th-cam.com/video/ZwR2ILwnYlA/w-d-xo.html
Another informative video! if laser settings are so dependent on the laser, wood, and environment then does that mean that the settings change when the humidity changes from 20% to 90%? If that is the case then there would have to be Winter (low humidity) settings and Summer (high humidity) settings.
Yes it will Jesse.
I just bought my first laser and I am having an issue with it. You seem very knowledgeable and I was wondering if I could pick your brain about possible problems?
Join the Forum Jesse. There are plenty of experienced good folks there that will problem solve. We do it as a community there.
Rich, Thank you for all of the great videos and the resources on your website. I apologize if this is answered somewhere else, but in this video you refer to both basswood and plywood. Do you have a specific source for your basswood? When you refer to basswood, are you specifically talking about solid basswood sheets or basswood plywood? Thanks, Dorian
No Dorian. Since 2019, I've been stuck buying my wood mostly from Amazon. The basswood I get is solid sheets.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you. I've not had the best luck with plywood sheets and thought I might try the basswood.
Rich, do you have a tutorial as to how to engrave one image at a time in same one work space to save time and travel of the laser head. (Etch one and move to next)
Set the layer to fill shapes individually.
hi there I am Tom from the UK, been watching some of your blogs, there great and I am understanding more each time especially lightburn, not got a laser yet, but what would you recommend in a diode laser, for a startup in doing cutting things like Christmas decorations
Oh I don't know if I would recommend any one over the other Raymond when it comes to diode lasers. I would recommend getting the most powerful one though, like aa 10W for sure. For a Co2 I highly recommend Monportlasers.com.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks for getting back to me, I am thinking of the sculptfun s9 or the atomstack S10 pro, I like the idea of the air assist on the sculptfun,
@@raymonddowning3500 Good choices. Look into the X-Tool D1, 10W as well. It's a very capable machine.
Hi Rich I am going to download your Universal Test Card this will help me out a lot and what I would like to know in your opinion what is the best wood for engraving on
It depends Malcolm. I find Basswood engraves photos extremely well, and so does Oak and Mahogany. For artwork, almost anything will do, even recycled pine pallets.
Hey Rich, great video as always. One question… am understanding correctly, the gradation test is an image, not a ‘path’?
That is correct, it's a vector image. If you want to do a raster test, you use the square boxes set to fill. Using an image tests the grayscale function of multiple shades of gray.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy And you extrapolate (?) info from that to do further power scales tests?
@@JapanScott1 Yes, look for the update video sometime today. It's going to be really quick and I've updated the test card.
Hello Rich, I ran your file on a some paint covered PCB material and notice a lack of variation in etching action. I reviewed the layers and found that all the power levels on the boxes ere set at 100% power. The text was set at 50%. Did you do that on purpose? Thanks so much for the file. What a great idea that will definitely shorten design flow time.
All of the power levels set at 100% are power scaled in the shape properties.
Aloha Rich, Your videos are great. I am brand new to Lightburn and I downloaded your universal card for testing. I know your setting is for diode laser, I have a CO2 65 watt what would you recommend as a starting point for setting to do the testing. This might be a stupid question is the test card set up so that you only have to change the speed and everything else will change accordingly when doing the testing. Thank you
Yes, that basically how it works. You have to have some idea of the starting power for testing.
I saw a video a few weeks ago on this model (I think) and it behaved like a higher power than what was stated.
It does seem to have more power than the typical 5W based on the testing so far. Hard to tell so soon.
Great video-Info - I would like to create a test card for engraving Clear Acrylic 4mm using xTool D1 10W. What would be a starting speed-power for the 1st burn? Also, I have watched videos showing various ways to etch acrylic, black cardstock under the Acrylic, metal sheet painted under, dishwashing liquid on one side of the acrylic sheet...... What is your process to engrave Acrylic?
Cut and engrave parameters are available free to download in my Forum for members: lahobbyguy.com/bb
I have no special technique to engrave acrylic.
Another great videos Rich! I watched this after your video on v8 of the UTC. So, I downloaded v8 and when I load it into Lightburn, do I need to go into each of the cuts/layers and make them match your settings?
The cuts and layers are preset for a 5.5W optical output (20W) diode laser David.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Oh, I see! The red layer was very close to the setting I have set for my default, so I thought it didn’t change.
Thanks for the great videos. I am a newbie and was wondering why all these tests are done with 100% power. Wouldn't you be changing the amount of power in different projects to get the results you want? I just ordered a 40 watt diode laser so I don't want to run everything at full power.
I run all my jobs at 100% power and adjust the speed to match. You can run them at whatever % you feel comfortable with Dan.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks. I am learning a lot from you. I'm just making my way through all your videos while I wait for my machine.
This is a wonderful idea. Can this file be used in Laserbox???
Yes, if you export it as an SVG in Lightburn.
I got a lot out of your video... and the other ones of yours that I've watched. But this one got me thinking: Isn't it safe to think that Xmm/min is about the same on all machines (within some reasonable tolerance)? (eg 2000mm/min = 2000mm/min and 300mm/min = 300mm/min)
That ought to be reasonably safe to assume, just like every automobile's speedometer that reads 55 mph is going darned close to 55mph.
If we assume Speed settings to be close enough from machine to machine, then the question becomes "What does % of Power mean on the different machines?" "What does it mean on the same machine?"
Is 100% power twice the power on a 10W diode laser as it is on a 5W diode laser? That is, if using 100% power on a 5W machine, is that equivalent to 50% power on a 10W machine? If not, why not? On a single machine, is 80% Power actually 1/5 less power than 100%Power? If not, why not?
On 2 different maker's 10W machines, is 80% Power the same on both? If not, why not?
If every Laser Maker doesn't define %Power the same way, why not? And shouldn't Laser Influencers like yourself ask for standards? (Or at least a definition or data chart to show what it means in each of their laser models?)
I get that we still need to run tests because my plywood, basswood, etc might be different from yours in any of several ways, and one kind of glass might be different from another, etc. But I'm talking about the machines.
No, it doesn't work that way. 50% of the power you have on a brand new diode is not the same as 50% of the power on the same diode 6 months later. All diodes don't come from the same manufacturer, and all power ratings are not rated under the same conditions. There is no such thing as standards on China products.
I think maybe people got used to looking for what settings people use from photography magazines and photo exhibits. They almost always state the camera used, the lens, aperture setting and such, not realizing that working directly with materials requires settings, methods and techniques specific to the material and tools used.
I do some work in leather. Leather parts from the same hide will have different characteristics from one part of the hide to another. The back responds different than the shoulder, the butt, the belly, etc. Testing to get the results you want are a part of doing the work and what I do on one piece will absolutely be different, however slightly or greatly, on another piece.
Learning the craft and techniques of your art is a lot different than just making photocopies of pretty pictures.
So true Wayne.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks for everything you do in teaching and exhibiting the principles of how to work. Test, test and retest. Practice, fail, try again, fail better next time, try again, get it right. Learn a lot. Get it right again and again and fail again - repeat process.
secondly sorry asking questions as I watch video, how do you connect your camera wirelessly is it a wifi camera?
My cameras are all USB Charles.
I printed the Image mode. however how am i to use it. they are all came out perfect. but i think alot has to do with the image chosen correct.
Yes, every image is going to be different settings. You have to test.
Do you have any setting for the 40 watt xtool yet
No Albert, and I won't. I wasn't very impressed with the S1 and all the bugs it has in Lightburn. But you can go on my free forums. I have a 22/40W combo library you can probably use in the members only downloads area. lahobbyguy.com/bb
Im looking everywhere for this universal test card file, even on your page ( I am a member) where can I find it? Thanks
Main page of the Forum Steve, member's only downloads. You have to be logged in to see the category.
educational video
that light blue box is that an extractor for the smoke?
Home-made? or can i buy it somewhere?
It's a soldering smoke absorber Joe and it's pretty strong! amzn.to/3wdDvOw
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thank you very kindly
Can you use this test card for CO2 laser? thanks for all the Info
Yes you can Jared!
H Rich. You made a comment below that you thought the concern over the use of 100% power is not as dramatic as it is often discussed in other channels. I have an ortur laser master ii - 20 watt. I have carefully avoided the use of 100% power to reduce the likelihood of burning out my laser. Will you please comment - and perhaps due a video - on this topic?
Hi Jams, I have no scientific data to speak with authority on this topic, and it seems to be a closed mouthed subject. The data that is available shows harm to the diodes with prolonged use without a cooling off period. But the life cycle on a good diode is thousands of hours if used properly. What I can tell you is I had 2 lasers in production for 2 years making coasters for an Amazon store every day, running the same jobs over and over with only a 10 minute cooling off period between batches of 9. They ran at the fastest speed and power to maximize production. I never changed any of the settings on the files over the 2 years and the product stayed the same. So what that tells me, just based on my experience is, the power output didn't change enough to affect the final product, so it's probably okay to assume that the diodes didn't degrade much over that time. I still have both machines and they both still run like any of my other 5W lasers.
Thanks, Rich. I enjoy your work very much and learn a lot with each video.
Does this replace the Lightburn material test?
No, this was before the material test.
Rich I've tried everyone of those "test" on my K40 with a MG3 control board with Lightburn all with bad results
You have to adjust the settings, the power and speed. These are baseline cards and need to be tailored to your specific power. I use them on the diode, and the 40 & 50W Co2. The control board doesn't matter.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thank you sir, thanks for your fast reply
Question for you. Why am I getting multi under speed and time in lightburn? No line or fill etc? Thanks
There are tabs open on the layer. Double click the layer to open the editor Mike.
Newbie here. Joined the forum. Cannot see how to add a message. Is it possible to use the Universal Test Card with XCS by xTool as I do not have Lightburn?
You can click New Topic in any of the categories. You need to be inside a category to create one Clifford. You can use the UTC with any laser that uses Lightburn.
Do I need an air scrubber with my OLM3? What brand do air scrubber you are using here? Cost? Thanks
I'm using the Monport Laser air scrubber.
What is the smoke filter that you are using?
It's a shop scrubber. Part of my soldering kit. You can get them on Amazon. They're called soldering air filters Philip. I'll be doing a modification video on it in the next week or two.
Rich, where can I get this file. I’m ready to give my new AtonstackPro x7 a run. Bill
On my forum in the member's only download section William.
Where would be a good place to get the basswood?
I get it on Amazon: amzn.to/3oYay82
Joined forum but cannot find the test card. Please help me find the file.
Front page, Member's only downloads Kathy.
will this same test if i download it work on any material ? different types of wood and thickness?
Yes
Using this card with my xtool d1 20watt (no pro) do I have to make any changes to the settings? Thanks
Yes you do. Lightburn remembers the last settings you used on the machine. This test card is now only used for some testing. Cut and raster tests are outdated now since Lightburn 1.4 now has the material test card built in.
What camera are you using?? I have a few Wyze cameras. Will they work?
I have several Mike. I don't know anything about the Wyze.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy after watching all yours and a few others I actually need a light burn camera. It’s the only one that will work, thank you
Where do you get your basswood blanks?
On Amazon Greg amzn.to/3SDzP0S
I know this is an old video but on your network once your connected to it can you not access the Internet? ive noticed that once I connect wirelessly to my machines my internet network is not longer active
That depends on what laser I'm using. Some you connect directly to the control board and have no Internet, and others use a WebUI that's accessed from an IP address Charles.
How do I adjust the Universal Test Card for a 20W laser?
Download the library from the fourm for the 20W Pam.
Hi Rich, When in ligtbrun, my print in cuts and layers is in different fonts. Would you know how to get it back to normal? And my layer bar at bottom goes and comes. Can you also help me with that. Thanks so much.
You can click on Window --> Reset to default layout.
Thanks again.
Do you have a test burn file for C02 laser that don't have to run up to 100%
All of the files are adjustable in the layers David.
where do you put the fumes extractor?
In the laser shop, I have built in exhaust that goes through an air scrubber in the attic and then outside. In the woodshop I don't have any exhaust, so I use the small air scrubber and just sit it next to the laser. It's strong enough to pull all of the smoke into it.
Ugh, speaking of stuff stolen and sold on Etsy, I’ve definitely seen this (sadly may have also bought it before I realized what’s up). Didn’t realize it was yours. Sorry!
Oh I don't mind Frank, I share it free to my viewers! V1 was actually developed by a friend of mine from the UK for a Co2 laser and given to me several years ago. Sadly he's passed on now, but the work he did lives on in the card! I've really only done a few iterations of the same file, and in fact, I'm working on V7 right now. I also sell a version in my online store, but my subscribers get it for free!
Add Info to cards for tracking: material, thickness, lens relief, speed, %max%min, lpi, all parameters
Feel free! It's easier and faster for me to write it on the back of the swatches.
Hello sir, I'm a beginner using the Xtool D1 Pro- just about ready to throw it out because I super duper frustrated. I have a project ready to go but I can't get it to cut out. Could you please help?
If you use Windows, you can schedule remote help on my calendar Karina: calendly.com/thelahobbyguy
Hi Jim
I was interested to hear you say you can run this test pattern on glass and acrylic The whole point of the colour wheel is to detrmine what colour you want your engraving to be, particularly for setting max and min power for grayscale photo engraving That's fine for any ORGANIC material but acrylic and glass do not posess a colour range A mechanical scratch or laser burn will produce just one colour . You can't cut glass so there is no value to the hole cutting test . You are making this test to correctly educate newcomers to that fact that their settings will be unique . and you havee done an excellent video prentation except they will be confused when they try it on glass, slate or acrylic (clear or coloured) or any other mineral material........but I suppose they will still learn something.
Try it! On glass and acrylic, you won't get different shades, obviously, but you will get very different results!
Does this work for CO2 laser? Or is there a different file for that?
It was created for a Co2.
hello,.. I cannot find the file :-) Do you have a link where I can download it :-) Thanks in advance.
Members downloads on my forum... links in the description.
In the video you say that only the stuff within the work area will be sent to the engraver. The only way I can prevent the entire file being sent to the engraver is to delete the parts not require (and remember not to accidentally save the modified file over the original).
Using "Cut Selected Graphics" does not resolve the issue.
Is there some other setting you have used that limits the engraving to the work area?
Nope, sure isn't Derek. It works just fine on all 9 of my lasers and I've never had anyone tell me this before. If cut selected graphics doesn't work, it has be due to something in your specific controller, but I have no idea of what machine you're talking about so I really can't say more.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you for the response. I am using a Sculpfun S6 Pro but I don't think it i a hardware problem. Interestingly you V8 test card was made with version 1.1.00 of Lightburn where as I have 1.0.06 which is the most recent available on the Lightburn site.
Thank you for the test card, it is proving useful.
@@dereksedunary1341 I'm a Beta tester, that's why I have 1.1.
Oh my goodness, this is exactly what I needed. I was trying to figure out how to do a test burn on an AR magazine without having to buy a ton of them just for testing. I’m certain I can get at least four of those test circles on one mag, so that will save me a ton of resources. Thanks, Rich!!
does this card work with the 10w laser?
It works on any laser Daniel.
Can't find the test file on your forum..
Main page, Members only downloads.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy found it, thank you 🙏 I just have a question on the image eye test. I'll write on the forum.
Do you have the test card file available for download?
Of course Brent 🤪 Guessing you didn't watch the video! 🤨
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy watched the entire video, must of missed it.
No problem Brent, I was just kidding! I updated the video! Here's the new QUICK Version 8: th-cam.com/video/ZwR2ILwnYlA/w-d-xo.html
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I found it, bought it and downloaded it. I’ll be busy tomorrow.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I'm a bit confused about the circular grey scale engraving test and how you created the image. Was each of the swatches created as a fill layer with the appropriate percentage and then converted to an image? Maybe I'm missing something.
Where the heck is this test card?
On the forum.
Can we buy this test card from you ?
No, but you can download it for free in the member's only download section of my hobby Forum: lahobbyguy.com/bb
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Also waiting to gain excess to your page can't remember youser name .sent email
I replied.
I have no idea what I did on the raster engraving lol. Let's just say it was definitely all kinds of wrong!
Don't worry Robin, you'll get it! It just has to tailored to your machine with the speeds and power!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I am waiting for the new computer since I destroyed mine 🙃
i feel like im trying to learn a new language . i dont understand anything :( can you come over and teach me things like im a toddler
Sure! 🤪 As long as you're within 10 miles!
I hit like as soon as you said it doesn't mater what your settings are. So tired of hearing this.
And what were *your* settings?? 🤪
Thanks!
Thanks so much for supporting the effort Carl! I really appreciate it!
You and Mark Lindsay are my "go To" guys. There will be more help in the future. Thanks for all of your excellent work !!!
Thanks again Carl!