We used to use the long term parking lot near El Cap when we backpacked in Yosemite. So did the climbing A**holes. They were pretty much homeless. Tons of garbage and sh*t. They were too cheap to pay 75 cents per night to camp in the walk in, campgrounds. There were 3. At the base of El Cap there were several homeless camps. Yeah! they smoked weed. They also drank beer and pissed everywhere.
There is a myth (which might not be) that a Native American curse was put on the area, basically to ensure that any settlers didn't manage to get along with one another. 🙂
I believe you made an error about the rope pooper. The guy whose image you pointed out, and whose interview from "Assault on El Capitan" you showed, is Steve Grossman, a self-styled climbing historian (also a contemporary of some of the early climbers, and a reasonably well-regarded first ascensionist of classics like Steve's Arete in Arizona). The admitted rope pooper is Steve Schneider, who I'm pretty sure is a different dude.
I was an outsider in Camp 4 1977. It was EXTREMELY hard to be accepted! It took me a week to convince Ron Kaulk to loan me a couple of bolts for a direct start w/a blank section I wanted to protect. " They" had to see the route before being assured that were needed.....Then, after I had pushed the route almost to completion, someone pulled a couple of knife blades (put in 1/4 -1/2" deep) I had tied off slings to!! They wouldn't have held a fall, but boosted my confidence enough to progress. Believe me....THOSE guys were in a league of their own!! AND yes...I did Bishops Balcony several times by using Pitons scars to free the wall up to the roof! You could sink a Chinaurd Hex into those holes!! Just some old dude ruminating.....
Had a dude give me beta by climbing my route in front of me, then pointing out at each step how it wasn't too bad. "Just go for it bro! You got this." I had never seen him before in my life.
really crazy, considering there where eyewitnesses and his previous offences. also beating someone unconscious itself is a big deal, that could easily turn into manslaughter, hitting your head on the ground the wrong way while falling unconscious can lead to death, then proceeding to hit her on the ground... yeah half a year is nothing that woman had a near death experience from a human that attacked her with no regards for her life, from stuff like that you can get lifelong trauma and mistrust in other humans. Humans have really done some great work when it comes to inventions and exploiting the planet for gains, but when it comes down to empathy there seems to bee no real progress there, we still tolerate monkey behavior, sad.
Its crazy how polarized many if not all outdoor adventure enthusiasts seem to be. They are either some of the most chill and nice people you'll ever meet, or they're stuck up gate keepers who greatly enjoy the smell of their own farts. I dont believe ive met too many in the middle 😂
I was a part of that era and believe or not, Yosemite was a mystical and sacred vortex to which we all took pilgrimage. Nicely structured vid! One note; Jardine invented Friends not to replace pitons (used for seams to finger sized cracks) but rather to be able to protect wider than finger cracks up to large off width cracks. Before Friends came onto our gear racks, we had to use British nylon nuts, gigantic pitons “Dongs”, or sling chockstones or “chickenheads” and/or other natural features. It was pretty dire…Friends made 12+ terrain available. Lynn was a baddass..after she free’d The Nose, her iconic statement, “It goes, boys!” became legend. 🙏🏾
This was wild. A few basically normal guys who got absolutely shit on unjustly (some literally) and one genuinely evil D-bag who is just an example of the scum of the Earth lol
"I was a chopper and shitter in the Wings of Steel incident..." That was the first time that arrangement of words was ever communicated in all of human history.
The friend wasn’t designed to replace the piton. Chocks were in common use for free climbing. The Friend was designed to provide a quickly placed piece of clean climbing protection
Not quite true, it was designed to protect cracks which flare outwards, and also cracks which have parallel sides without the compromises found in the sliding wedge devices which were used before friends for parallel sided cracks.
Your video quality has gone up so much since I started following you! It feels like a mini documentary that is well produced and it’s awesome! Keep doing what you’re doing!
Charlie might be the most evil climber in history. The most hated climber is probably Shawn Snyder for chopping bolts in Yosemite and putting up a via ferrata at Smith Rock and for assaulting other climbers. Public Enemy #2 would be the dude chipping boulders in UT because he couldn’t do the problems.
@@crakkbone I think the reason chipping is bad is that these outdoor locations are shared resources. You are unilaterally making a decision that not only affects all current climbers, but all _future_ climbers. I think it's quite reasonable to say that this is wrong!
Came looking for Shawn Snyder comment. That dude is seriously unhinged and has turned into a very scary dude. Apparently he had a pretty bad head injury many years ago and his personality changed afterwards... he might have been a bit off his rocker before that but then he went full bolt-chopping, hammer-swinging menace afterwards. That recent interview just made him sound even more disconnected from reality...
Hating Ray Jardine is the very height of hypocrisy. Number 1: Every single route up El Cap has dozens and dozens of chipped holds from the use of Pitons that make free climbing possible. Number 2: Jardine was a Pioneer of hard free climbs and his invention of the sping loaded cam makes nearly every hard crack climb possible to protect. EVERYONE who climbs today has a debt to this great innovator. And YES nearly every single one of your heroes has chipped holds one way or another if they ever used pitons. Jardine does NOT belong on a list including real criminals.
Ahh first off he admitted to taking someone at gun point then threatening their life. Which is a next level criminal act that could land you decades in jail … secondly n most important His inclusion was because he was tragically openly hated it’s not claiming the reasons for the hatred were morally justified. In fact having him listed shows what a legend he is to climbing. the cam is a peak intention for climbing and he basically set the route for the goddam nose
@@elginphelps5291 Garbage. The leader of the Stonemasters, Jim Bridwell, chipped more holds than anyone in the Valley and Kauk, Bard et al nailed many El Cap routes. It was just standard hazing the Valley Clique dished out to outsiders with better vision than their own. See Wings of Steel and the slander directed towards Tony Yaniro too. I was there at the end of the Jardine era and knew Tony too in addition to those directly responsible for pooping on the WoS ropes. They all became sport climbers like Jardine in the end or drifted off to burnt out alcoholism (see Bill Russell).
@ The de facto leader of the StoneMasters, Jim Bridwell, chipped holds all over the Valley and Kauk, Bard, Chapman et al nailed many, many El Cap routes effectively chipping holds. It was simple hazing of outsiders with any means justified no matter how hypocritical.
I loved rock climbing like no other activity for about ten years. I eventually lost interest because rock climbers are the biggest group of elitist divas I have ever known. This video provides some good examples of this. “Outsiders” get treated like criminals and actual criminals are welcomed as long as they climb hard.
You loved climbing or getting other people's attention? As you probably know, you can climb alone, so if you're saying you don't climb anymore because of other people it's not true, it's because of you. Hope it stays that way, it's better for climbing. A climber since 98', still loving it.
@@gallanonim6535 part of the fun of an activity like climbing is being a part of something. Unfortunately, with climbing, the culture that surrounds it isn't very good
@@christophermckenzie8486 The only thing I'm entitled to is the option to go outside and climb on rock whenever I want. You don't need a crew to send. Simple as that.
@@zaneplatt3533 I get you. I climb since 98' and in the beggining of my journey I wanted to get everybody into climbing. Now it's the contrary with all these social media poser climbers and gym climbers who treat it as gym not climbing. Now less people that climb is better. Probably due to the fact that many people came into climbing that don't understand the 'ethos' of this activity. If they don't respect the rock it's hard to expect them to respect other people. But there's a light in the tunnel. It's harded to assemble a ggod crew now but it's not impossible. It's like saying you won't go cycling because everybody runs on EPO. Some people do but not all people are assholes and that includes climbing.
I was a climber in the 1970s. No Olympic climbing, no indoor walls to speak of, new equipment developments like the friend, etc. Oh, and we all wore painter's pants.
This has got to be ragebait... Is the chopping of bolts and throwing poop at someone really worse than aggravated sexual and physical assault, threats of murder of a kind that are often followed thru on? Partner violence is kind of ridiculous if you look at the stats...
Your getting ahead of yourself He didn’t imply or say it was worse . He said why wasn’t he ‘ at least a candidate’ suggesting he’s up there with the final few bastards ..he didn’t say he should be the chosen most hated.. Keep in mind the poop bolt cut no rescue events were actual events on the rock and he was viciously openly hated by climbers. This sexual predator who guy got (deservedly) life sentenced for evil shite he did in his personal life off the rock . He’s also hated retroactively as he largely flew under the police n communitys radar for decades ( i hope he has roided up lonely cellmates ).. I still agree he should be number 1 by a country mile because his crimes are so egregious
I was a climber in the UK during the mid-70s to mid-80s and remember the appearance of the Friend and chalk. You’d have thought it was witchcraft by the reactions of some people.
And it should stay in these guidebooks. I don't like rewriting history. Similar thing as with Germany who invaded Poland. Now they teach that Naz.is did it. Keep him there but update with the info his imprisonede for life, simple facts. Erasing him is a bad idea, typical american way, like nothing ever happened but it did.
180 days in jail for beating an ex-girlfriend unconscious and continuing to beat her unconscious body. With a prior of the exact same action. I am guessing he would have gotten more time if he had never met her before so it didn't qualify as 'domestic abuse'. Jesus.
I went hiking with two friends back in my high school days. We split four tabs of LSD and hit the trail. After an hour or so we found ourselves at the base of a large granite outcrop. The trail continued to the left but my buddy decided to free climb a section. He froze about 35-40' up, hugging this bare rock, legs quivering and crying like a baby. All we could do was roll around laughing our butts off watching him. Lucky for him, there were guy up above who rappelled down to him. They weren't impressed.
Lmao I'm a small time developer and he went through several years of FB posts to find a route development issue I was having (took me three days to remove a bolt due it breaking in my first removal attempt) and threatened to chop my bolts. Maybe it's a route developer right of passage? Dude's unhinged.
@@RickyHarline He's a self-proclaimed gate keeper of bolting. Don't try to figure out his logic, I don't think even he understands his own decision making... Listen to that interview with him from a year or two ago, he is clearly not all there.
That clears things a bit. Cams were invented not to stop damaging the rock, but to ditch the hammer and free up some weight to carry a gun up the wall.
Genuine question: do you know what a nut/hex/tricam is? I can't tell if you skipped over that part of trad climbing on purpose or not, it would be wild if we went from pitons to cams.
Yet hundreds flock to his property to stay for the summer and climb routes chipped by everyone who put up a route in the canyon. Kinda hypocritical don’t ya think? Or maybe yall are just fake two faced entitled narcissists?. Talk shit about someone. But stay at their ranch. When it’s convenient for you.
Nah, it’s not. Chipping has been a thing for a long time. Modern sport climbing areas have manufactured holds and holds are frequently ‘comfortized.’ Louie has developed a ton of amazing crags to the masses. I don’t agree with dumbing things down to make them possible (ie- chipping 5.12/13s to make them 5.10), but did you ever climb at the Riverside Quarry? That place would be a nightmare without drilled pockets and chipped holds. It’s just an outdoor gym and it’s super fun. And if you don’t want to climb on manufactured holds, I’d advise not climbing in Yosemite, Tuolumne, Joshua Tree, Tahquitz/Suicide, or just about any area that has a long history. Hell, even Rifle and Smith are manufactured. I guess it’s time for you to start new routing. Leave all the choss up there for the masses.
This popped up on my feed for an unknown reason and the title caught my eye. I first thought, I do not actually give a single f or thought about hikers, ramblers, rock climbers or any other idiot that fucks up nature for a bit of leisurely future arthritis but I had not realised these non sports had internal cliques and haters. Congratulations, as a person that goes out doors to do productive and constructive things like build houses, hunt my food, tend my garden, clean up the neighbourhood with mates in the community- you know things that actually involve production and a positive lifestyle and community- you got me to waste 16 minutes of my life to reinforce my previous opinion of people that do a lot of nothing and pretend it is something :) and sometimes do really bad things to people below them. I usually equate this behaviour to politicians but yeah, adult children that climb rocks are similar.
@@ianh1504 I throw BBQs and parties, with people that are productive. Not out wasting my rope to compete with themselves in their tiny community talking about how great their rock is. Get a hobby, play a sport. Stop shitting on a guy for wanting to climb a rock. You are both terrible at doing anything meaningful. Embrace your uselessness together.
Jim Beyer... I've spent 10+ years climbing big walls around the U.S. and he is definitely the most hated big wall climber. He once said "The greatest honor would be having a climber die on his routes"
I've never watched a rock climbing channel or k ow anything ab the sport but I do know ab Ray Jardine. Weird how the algorithm just hits sometimes. Great video btw.
Climbers seem to HATE chipping holds, but I can gaurentee if you’ve climbed outside enough you’ve pulled on AT LEAST reinforced holds, if not manufactured holds
Nah the only reason all this is so well documented is because it was exceptionally horrible and most climbers don’t actually shit on people and threaten them, most are actually normal people if you can believe it.
2:34 sounds like the same sort of bullying, hating and gatekeeping surfers/skaters do. Funny how the supposedly most zen (non competitive) sports are so full of vitriol and hate. They are always cowards egged on by other cowards.
I had the pleasure of working out every week day with Dave Altman (RIP) in the early 90's, he spoke very highly of his friend Ray Jardine. Dave spent quite a bit of time in the valley and encouraged all of us to attempt Phoenix, I never did do the route. As far as Steve Schneider goes, he was a City Rock regular, valley local, very friendly and certainly not the guy talking in this video...I think that is Grossman??
Piton scars are completely different than chipping holds, in that they weren't put there to make the route easier, they were an inevitable result of the only way to protect or aid climb routes in those days. (I know or knew several of the climbers in this. And one of Ray's former girlfriends.)
Seems to me like the most hated rock climber seems to be whoever was at yosemite in the 1970s lol
Yeah except for the last guy 💀💀 He deserves the title
Big Walls create Big Egos :)
We used to use the long term parking lot near El Cap when we backpacked in Yosemite. So did the climbing A**holes. They were pretty much homeless. Tons of garbage and sh*t. They were too cheap to pay 75 cents per night to camp in the walk in, campgrounds. There were 3. At the base of El Cap there were several homeless camps. Yeah! they smoked weed. They also drank beer and pissed everywhere.
Liberals suck
It's actually me. My self hatred is unmatched to this day
Woah there buddy, you can't hate yourself, more than I hate myself
I hate both of you equally and unequivocally.
Yalls self-hate aint nothin compared to mine when I dont immediately flash the hardest problem in the gym
I once climbed a rock and now I drink myself to sleep and don't go outside checkmate self loathers.
Don't hate yourself
All I learned is: if you don‘t want to be hated avoid Yosemite.
dw it's not the 1970s anymore
There is a myth (which might not be) that a Native American curse was put on the area, basically to ensure that any settlers didn't manage to get along with one another. 🙂
This is the kind of climbing content youtube needs Trucrime climbing .
Truclimb
The climbing gold season about the weed plane crash is as close to a true crime climbing podcast you’ll get
True pooping crimecast
@@PPKFilmsalmost forgot about that. I thought Ted Bundy did some free climbing in his off time but maybe he just told the investigators that.
I believe you made an error about the rope pooper. The guy whose image you pointed out, and whose interview from "Assault on El Capitan" you showed, is Steve Grossman, a self-styled climbing historian (also a contemporary of some of the early climbers, and a reasonably well-regarded first ascensionist of classics like Steve's Arete in Arizona). The admitted rope pooper is Steve Schneider, who I'm pretty sure is a different dude.
Ouch. I wouldn't want to have my face in this video pointed out as the rope pooper.
Bump for visibility. Hopes that he see this
that's bad bro.
Thats straight up slander
@@artemisspawnofzeus7732
Nope
I was an outsider in Camp 4 1977. It was EXTREMELY hard to be accepted! It took me a week to convince Ron Kaulk to loan me a couple of bolts for a direct start w/a blank section I wanted to protect. " They" had to see the route before being assured that were needed.....Then, after I had pushed the route almost to completion, someone pulled a couple of knife blades (put in 1/4 -1/2" deep) I had tied off slings to!! They wouldn't have held a fall, but boosted my confidence enough to progress. Believe me....THOSE guys were in a league of their own!! AND yes...I did Bishops Balcony several times by using Pitons scars to free the wall up to the roof! You could sink a Chinaurd Hex into those holes!! Just some old dude ruminating.....
I don’t really understand but it was very intense
The most hated rock climber is probably the person who sets slabs at your local gym
Yeah i hate that guy, i havent seen the hardest grade on slab for over 2 months now
I am ashamed for you and how wrong you are
Slabs are low key fun though
I like slabs
@@BigSources that’s exactly the problem I have! So annoying since I’m not strong enough to climb the hardest grade on overhang😅
You forgot that guy at the gym who just comes and flashes your project right in front of you after you've already been struggling for an hour.
Had a dude give me beta by climbing my route in front of me, then pointing out at each step how it wasn't too bad. "Just go for it bro! You got this." I had never seen him before in my life.
🤣🤣🤣
only so many climbs in a gym. It's ok to feel jealous and insecure
180 days in jail? For beating an unconscious woman? Isn't that attempted murder
Ide say its unbelievable, but women are repeatedly failed when it comes to prosecuting violence involving past and present relationships.
@@Finimabob Well she was asking for it
really crazy, considering there where eyewitnesses and his previous offences. also beating someone unconscious itself is a big deal, that could easily turn into manslaughter, hitting your head on the ground the wrong way while falling unconscious can lead to death, then proceeding to hit her on the ground... yeah half a year is nothing that woman had a near death experience from a human that attacked her with no regards for her life, from stuff like that you can get lifelong trauma and mistrust in other humans. Humans have really done some great work when it comes to inventions and exploiting the planet for gains, but when it comes down to empathy there seems to bee no real progress there, we still tolerate monkey behavior, sad.
Liberal states don't punish criminals
She was already unconscious when the beating began?
Its crazy how polarized many if not all outdoor adventure enthusiasts seem to be.
They are either some of the most chill and nice people you'll ever meet, or they're stuck up gate keepers who greatly enjoy the smell of their own farts.
I dont believe ive met too many in the middle 😂
Yeah extreme sports definitely attracts egos
I was a part of that era and believe or not, Yosemite was a mystical and sacred vortex to which we all took pilgrimage. Nicely structured vid! One note; Jardine invented Friends not to replace pitons (used for seams to finger sized cracks) but rather to be able to protect wider than finger cracks up to large off width cracks. Before Friends came onto our gear racks, we had to use British nylon nuts, gigantic pitons “Dongs”, or sling chockstones or “chickenheads” and/or other natural features. It was pretty dire…Friends made 12+ terrain available. Lynn was a baddass..after she free’d The Nose, her iconic statement, “It goes, boys!” became legend. 🙏🏾
This was wild. A few basically normal guys who got absolutely shit on unjustly (some literally) and one genuinely evil D-bag who is just an example of the scum of the Earth lol
Anyone who DEMANDS respect doesn't deserve any! 180 days in jail for that attack, that's f'n BS.
Ray Jardine is also known as the father of ultralight backpacking. He has had a pretty storied career!
"I was a chopper and shitter in the Wings of Steel incident..." That was the first time that arrangement of words was ever communicated in all of human history.
The friend wasn’t designed to replace the piton. Chocks were in common use for free climbing. The Friend was designed to provide a quickly placed piece of clean climbing protection
Not quite true, it was designed to protect cracks which flare outwards, and also cracks which have parallel sides without the compromises found in the sliding wedge devices which were used before friends for parallel sided cracks.
Your video quality has gone up so much since I started following you! It feels like a mini documentary that is well produced and it’s awesome! Keep doing what you’re doing!
Charlie might be the most evil climber in history. The most hated climber is probably Shawn Snyder for chopping bolts in Yosemite and putting up a via ferrata at Smith Rock and for assaulting other climbers. Public Enemy #2 would be the dude chipping boulders in UT because he couldn’t do the problems.
Oooooo chipping away rocks, the guy is EVIL 👿 ROCKS ARE SACRED the earth only has so many, right?
@@crakkbone I think the reason chipping is bad is that these outdoor locations are shared resources. You are unilaterally making a decision that not only affects all current climbers, but all _future_ climbers. I think it's quite reasonable to say that this is wrong!
@@crakkbone Yeah, why can't I just go around destroying everything on the planet? 🙄
So funny to see people get mad about chip and rock away from Rock😂
Came looking for Shawn Snyder comment. That dude is seriously unhinged and has turned into a very scary dude. Apparently he had a pretty bad head injury many years ago and his personality changed afterwards... he might have been a bit off his rocker before that but then he went full bolt-chopping, hammer-swinging menace afterwards. That recent interview just made him sound even more disconnected from reality...
12:15 If this wasn't how he got the nickname, then there's at least one more poop related incident involving him. The guy is consistent.
Hating Ray Jardine is the very height of hypocrisy. Number 1: Every single route up El Cap has dozens and dozens of chipped holds from the use of Pitons that make free climbing possible. Number 2: Jardine was a Pioneer of hard free climbs and his invention of the sping loaded cam makes nearly every hard crack climb possible to protect. EVERYONE who climbs today has a debt to this great innovator. And YES nearly every single one of your heroes has chipped holds one way or another if they ever used pitons.
Jardine does NOT belong on a list including real criminals.
Ahh first off he admitted to taking someone at gun point then threatening their life. Which is a next level criminal act that could land you decades in jail … secondly n most important
His inclusion was because he was tragically openly hated it’s not claiming the reasons for the hatred were morally justified. In fact having him listed shows what a legend he is to climbing. the cam is a peak intention for climbing and he basically set the route for the goddam nose
The video stated that.😊
The Stonemasters had embraced chocks, nuts, and eschewed pistons except for Big Walls.
Jardine chipped a chicken shit traverse on the Nose.
@@elginphelps5291 Garbage. The leader of the Stonemasters, Jim Bridwell, chipped more holds than anyone in the Valley and Kauk, Bard et al nailed many El Cap routes. It was just standard hazing the Valley Clique dished out to outsiders with better vision than their own. See Wings of Steel and the slander directed towards Tony Yaniro too. I was there at the end of the Jardine era and knew Tony too in addition to those directly responsible for pooping on the WoS ropes. They all became sport climbers like Jardine in the end or drifted off to burnt out alcoholism (see Bill Russell).
@ The de facto leader of the StoneMasters, Jim Bridwell, chipped holds all over the Valley and Kauk, Bard, Chapman et al nailed many, many El Cap routes effectively chipping holds. It was simple hazing of outsiders with any means justified no matter how hypocritical.
The poop below El Cap used to be gnarly. Now poop tubes are the rule. You could smell the poop from quite a distance as you approached.
Wait...wut?
@@justinlast2lastharder749 They had hella dudes dropping dukies
I loved rock climbing like no other activity for about ten years. I eventually lost interest because rock climbers are the biggest group of elitist divas I have ever known. This video provides some good examples of this. “Outsiders” get treated like criminals and actual criminals are welcomed as long as they climb hard.
You loved climbing or getting other people's attention? As you probably know, you can climb alone, so if you're saying you don't climb anymore because of other people it's not true, it's because of you. Hope it stays that way, it's better for climbing. A climber since 98', still loving it.
@@gallanonim6535 You sound JUST LIKE one of the self entitled arrogant climbers in this story
@@gallanonim6535 part of the fun of an activity like climbing is being a part of something. Unfortunately, with climbing, the culture that surrounds it isn't very good
@@christophermckenzie8486 The only thing I'm entitled to is the option to go outside and climb on rock whenever I want. You don't need a crew to send. Simple as that.
@@zaneplatt3533 I get you. I climb since 98' and in the beggining of my journey I wanted to get everybody into climbing. Now it's the contrary with all these social media poser climbers and gym climbers who treat it as gym not climbing. Now less people that climb is better. Probably due to the fact that many people came into climbing that don't understand the 'ethos' of this activity. If they don't respect the rock it's hard to expect them to respect other people. But there's a light in the tunnel. It's harded to assemble a ggod crew now but it's not impossible. It's like saying you won't go cycling because everybody runs on EPO. Some people do but not all people are assholes and that includes climbing.
Actually except for aid: 70s Yosemite climbers mainly used stoppers and hexes; cams were great for parallel cracks.
Door casing is NOT designed to carry that kind of weight. The Fictitious Hangboard will damage and or even destroy the door casing.
I was a climber in the 1970s. No Olympic climbing, no indoor walls to speak of, new equipment developments like the friend, etc. Oh, and we all wore painter's pants.
I get it that the last one is a piece of shit, but how on earth wasn't the guy actually shitting on climbers not even considered as a candidate?
This has got to be ragebait... Is the chopping of bolts and throwing poop at someone really worse than aggravated sexual and physical assault, threats of murder of a kind that are often followed thru on? Partner violence is kind of ridiculous if you look at the stats...
Because the poop guy apologized
pooping on someone vs threatening to kill children and sexual assault.....
Your getting ahead of yourself He didn’t imply or say it was worse . He said why wasn’t he ‘ at least a candidate’ suggesting he’s up there with the final few bastards ..he didn’t say he should be the chosen most hated..
Keep in mind the poop bolt cut no rescue events were actual events on the rock and he was viciously openly hated by climbers.
This sexual predator who guy got (deservedly) life sentenced for evil shite he did in his personal life off the rock . He’s also hated retroactively as he largely flew under the police n communitys radar for decades ( i hope he has roided up lonely cellmates ).. I still agree he should be number 1 by a country mile because his crimes are so egregious
Yeah the guy in the interview should have been on the list not the guys who made the route.
"Despite this Rick and Mark were undeterred (under-turd 💩)"........ punn intended??? 😂
I was a climber in the UK during the mid-70s to mid-80s and remember the appearance of the Friend and chalk. You’d have thought it was witchcraft by the reactions of some people.
The only way Charlie can climb now is just trying to escape prison 🙏
Charlie Barrett is from my home gym and put up a lot of climbs near my local area really unfortunate his name is still in guide books
Rosa gang
@@DaBoulder Pink hallway
And it should stay in these guidebooks. I don't like rewriting history. Similar thing as with Germany who invaded Poland. Now they teach that Naz.is did it. Keep him there but update with the info his imprisonede for life, simple facts. Erasing him is a bad idea, typical american way, like nothing ever happened but it did.
180 days in jail for beating an ex-girlfriend unconscious and continuing to beat her unconscious body. With a prior of the exact same action. I am guessing he would have gotten more time if he had never met her before so it didn't qualify as 'domestic abuse'. Jesus.
Yeah I was pretty shocked that he only got a 180 day sentence.
If it were up to me, I'd have given the life sentence in prison just for that alone.
I went hiking with two friends back in my high school days. We split four tabs of LSD and hit the trail. After an hour or so we found ourselves at the base of a large granite outcrop. The trail continued to the left but my buddy decided to free climb a section. He froze about 35-40' up, hugging this bare rock, legs quivering and crying like a baby. All we could do was roll around laughing our butts off watching him. Lucky for him, there were guy up above who rappelled down to him. They weren't impressed.
Wish we all had friends like you...
DUDE, THAT LAST GUY WAS THE WORST
Idk how Shawn Snyder isn't on here
Lmao I'm a small time developer and he went through several years of FB posts to find a route development issue I was having (took me three days to remove a bolt due it breaking in my first removal attempt) and threatened to chop my bolts.
Maybe it's a route developer right of passage?
Dude's unhinged.
He recently destroyed and cut all the bolts at a rad little climbing spot in Bend. Such a piece of 💩
Lets see, he tried to kill dean potter, chopped bolts, cut ropes. Probably many more instances.
@@RickyHarline He's a self-proclaimed gate keeper of bolting. Don't try to figure out his logic, I don't think even he understands his own decision making... Listen to that interview with him from a year or two ago, he is clearly not all there.
Oh trust and believe I’m here👊🖕
That clears things a bit. Cams were invented not to stop damaging the rock, but to ditch the hammer and free up some weight to carry a gun up the wall.
This story-based content is really enjoyable.
I drove pitons there back in the seventies.
I still remember the smell of granite dust from driving and removing them.
You forgot about the guy who bolted the petroglyphs in Utah... And Shawn Snyder
Schneider is still well known for being very obnoxious.
Great content dude! Thank you for doing the research for these videos!
"How dare they! This is my rock!!"....*dies. Rock still exists without them*
Charlie Barett getting less abuse from other climbers than those other people is a perfect distillation of climber culture.
Genuine question: do you know what a nut/hex/tricam is? I can't tell if you skipped over that part of trad climbing on purpose or not, it would be wild if we went from pitons to cams.
Climbers sound like the bicyclists of the outdoors world😂
its “Sha Poopy” is how its said and that picture of the bald guy is not Steve Schneider.
The real most hated rock climber is the one who rubs their greasy feet all over every crimp on the gym
A gym allows barefoot climbing?
I don't think tapping a wedge in to clip onto is in my future.
Ken Nichols ties at no.1
Well, Luke Skywalker the gear thief got pulled over by rangers with his granny he murdered in the trunk. Does he qualify for the list?
That was Luke Stong. He was an intense and creepy guy that lurked around camp 4 and stole gear. Mostly from the top of fixed ropes on El Capitan.
The real hated rock climber is gluey louie
Yet hundreds flock to his property to stay for the summer and climb routes chipped by everyone who put up a route in the canyon. Kinda hypocritical don’t ya think? Or maybe yall are just fake two faced entitled narcissists?. Talk shit about someone. But stay at their ranch. When it’s convenient for you.
Nah, it’s not. Chipping has been a thing for a long time. Modern sport climbing areas have manufactured holds and holds are frequently ‘comfortized.’ Louie has developed a ton of amazing crags to the masses. I don’t agree with dumbing things down to make them possible (ie- chipping 5.12/13s to make them 5.10), but did you ever climb at the Riverside Quarry? That place would be a nightmare without drilled pockets and chipped holds. It’s just an outdoor gym and it’s super fun. And if you don’t want to climb on manufactured holds, I’d advise not climbing in Yosemite, Tuolumne, Joshua Tree, Tahquitz/Suicide, or just about any area that has a long history. Hell, even Rifle and Smith are manufactured. I guess it’s time for you to start new routing. Leave all the choss up there for the masses.
I used to watch clips of Charlie climbing back in the day, he definitely had elite open hand strength ✋ ... Hopefully that transfers to soap bars 🧼
I really enjoyed the video and you explained if in a way that even non-rock climbers can understand ❤
Man this turned from most hated rock climber to most despicable human to touch a rock :(
This popped up on my feed for an unknown reason and the title caught my eye. I first thought, I do not actually give a single f or thought about hikers, ramblers, rock climbers or any other idiot that fucks up nature for a bit of leisurely future arthritis but I had not realised these non sports had internal cliques and haters.
Congratulations, as a person that goes out doors to do productive and constructive things like build houses, hunt my food, tend my garden, clean up the neighbourhood with mates in the community- you know things that actually involve production and a positive lifestyle and community- you got me to waste 16 minutes of my life to reinforce my previous opinion of people that do a lot of nothing and pretend it is something :) and sometimes do really bad things to people below them. I usually equate this behaviour to politicians but yeah, adult children that climb rocks are similar.
i would say "you must be fun at parties" sarcastically but you dont get invited to many of those huh
@@ianh1504 I throw BBQs and parties, with people that are productive. Not out wasting my rope to compete with themselves in their tiny community talking about how great their rock is.
Get a hobby, play a sport. Stop shitting on a guy for wanting to climb a rock. You are both terrible at doing anything meaningful. Embrace your uselessness together.
You forgot about the actual most hated climber, Shawn Synder
Just a heads up, he’s trolling. His @ is highwalker5873
I dig the sarcasm and fun rock climbing slang. You're awesome!
Jim Beyer... I've spent 10+ years climbing big walls around the U.S. and he is definitely the most hated big wall climber. He once said "The greatest honor would be having a climber die on his routes"
Jesus wtf was climbers deal back then.. Im glad the community has become more open and more forgiving on bolting routes etc..
Yeah, why make something so amazing, something these people seem to love so much, easier for someone else to do? Fuck everybody else, get good.
Theres gatekeeping and theres these guys, jeebus.
By the time of the Stone masters petons were only used for aid climbing. They had nuts and hexes.
charlie has since rock climbed the wall right out of prison
I've never watched a rock climbing channel or k ow anything ab the sport but I do know ab Ray Jardine. Weird how the algorithm just hits sometimes. Great video btw.
Climbers seem to HATE chipping holds, but I can gaurentee if you’ve climbed outside enough you’ve pulled on AT LEAST reinforced holds, if not manufactured holds
And that sucks
Lynn said the traverse could go without the chipped holds on the traverse. But how do you sort it out.
The Nose has recently gone free without the enhanced holds.
@TheRoafer Lynn said it could; who did it?
Ray was scared that someone would steal his cam idea…like he stole it from George Lowe.
I think you mean Greg Lowe.
Yikes. After watching this, the Sharma/Momoa video, the Gluey Louie one, climbers seem like a crowd to avoid 😬.
Nah the only reason all this is so well documented is because it was exceptionally horrible and most climbers don’t actually shit on people and threaten them, most are actually normal people if you can believe it.
Started reading the reply, then got distracted by username bigpenis6372 😂.
@@bigpenis6372 Wouldn't say normal, but usually they are chill
Wait a minute ! The doorway mount is a separate purchase ?!?! Lolololol
Rather than pitons, Friends were a more secure and easier-to-place option to sketchy clean/free nuts, hexes, etc.
I’ve always found rock climbers to be disgustingly self-important.
I find this outdoor community stuff so interesting. In the gym everyone is just so friendly, chill, welcoming, laid back, and encouraging.
The biggest thing ive ever climbed is a staircase. But I love your videos regardless. Informative and fun.
Haven't watched yet, but am awaiting a mattclimber cameo at least
A video suggestion: I would be interested in an updated version of the Chalk Ranking maybe with the new variations of Magdust and so on
2:34 sounds like the same sort of bullying, hating and gatekeeping surfers/skaters do. Funny how the supposedly most zen (non competitive) sports are so full of vitriol and hate. They are always cowards egged on by other cowards.
Surfers and skateboarders definitely are insufferable. Guitar players as well. Good call
Trust longboarders in both surfing and skateboarding lmao
snowboarding is generally pretty welcoming. Some assholes here and there but that’s with everything
What is that tune at 2:37?
Pornhub's jingle. A friend told me
Why are you asking?
Does it sound familiar?
Had to scroll for like a minute to find this comment. That ish is wild 😂
Does he know? 💀
Steve knew another person took the blame for pooping on the ropes for a few decades and never apologized.
What I got from this is that Yosemite used to be WILD back in the day
The National Park Service should ban and prosecute hammers, pitons, and chipping. Because it's vandalism.
the pink one in the corner does look pretty neat though
Jardine was ahead of his time.
180 days for battery and nearly attempted murder. Our justice system astonishes me to no bounds. Atleast that man is put away for good though.
What I'm hearing is gamerz can trace their roots back to an isolated tribe of rock climbers at Yosemite.
Ray is a legend, not really most hated
Bro what was going on in Yosemite like damn that attracted like the worst climbers possible 😂
I had the pleasure of working out every week day with Dave Altman (RIP) in the early 90's, he spoke very highly of his friend Ray Jardine. Dave spent quite a bit of time in the valley and encouraged all of us to attempt Phoenix, I never did do the route. As far as Steve Schneider goes, he was a City Rock regular, valley local, very friendly and certainly not the guy talking in this video...I think that is Grossman??
Didn’t Alex Megos have some drama as well?
Yeah one day the easter bunny wanted to kill him in cold blood. We will never know why.
180 freaking days for felony DV?!?! That's a freaking joke
I moved to Yosemite in 1989..climbing was a fringe sport at the time..most big walls and long climbs have slabs ,chimney and or off widths on them😅😅
Charlie was sentenced for more than 180 days in the Inyo county jail. He served 8-9 months for a 12 month setence.
I miss guess the grade
Some say John Muir's been spinning in his grave for 60 years.
#JusticeForSteveGrossman
OMG, I didn't think it was possible but your vids keep getting better. Most hilarious yet. I freakin' love you, man.
Just saved him a fortune on toilet paper! Embarrassing...
Hangdogging is disliked because the belayer is holding you up there. It’s heavy and frustrating
I wiped the noses on Rushmore, Hell just confirmed my reservation.
Thanks for the great content as always!! ❤
But to be honest, I miss "Guess the grade"
Where is dynology! Where is guess the grade!!!
Your explanation of the Wings of Steel saga isn't remotely close to what actually occurred.
What really happened then?
The guy who smeared axl grease all over the boulders at the Big Bend bouldering area outside of Moab deserves a spot on the top 10 list.
Piton scars are completely different than chipping holds, in that they weren't put there to make the route easier, they were an inevitable result of the only way to protect or aid climb routes in those days. (I know or knew several of the climbers in this. And one of Ray's former girlfriends.)
How to be a hated rock climber? Be a rock climber. 🤣🤣