Really hope this gets a response. So just to confirm the cutting / splicing sequence to bypass the flow switch... 1) cut the large wire between the switch and the cell and separate the 4 inner wires 2) (this is where i get a bit confused) connect together the red and black wires both from the cell side ? 3) reconnect the green wire back together from the cell to the switch side. Repeat this for the white wire ? 4) leave the red and black wires from the switch side cut / disconnected ? Thanks all.
Our flow light was red, and slat level was flashing back and forth. Our pool water was tested and the salt level was fine. Thanks to the video by AQUA PRO, I removed the white cap. Cut the one fat grey wire, exposing 4 thin wires (Green, White, Black and Red). then stripped ALL red AND black wires. Tied them ALL together. Turn the unit back on. Flow light went to green immediately. Flashing salt level lights kept flashed for about 2 minute then went green too. Amazing tip and thank you Mr. Aqua Pro . liked and subscribed for sure.
Thanks for the video. My IC40 started doing this right after I had a pool repair place change out my old pump. I spoke with them about it and they took the IC40 to their shop to test it. They informed me the cell was bad and needed to be replaced.....for $600. I asked about the possibility it was the flow switch and they said no, the other lights that were flashing wouldn't be doing that if it was just the flow switch. Well, I took the unit back from them and shorted the red and black wires while splicing through the green and white wires and guess what........all solid green lights now and it appears to be making chlorine. I just ordered a new flow switch for $60......a lot better than $600. Thank goodness because my IC40 is only a year old. Thanks again.
My flow would be green sometimes but red most of the times. I connected the red and black together but left the white and green not connected. Flow was still red. This is about 4 or 5 years old, so csn you still do this or can something else be wrong?
I can't discern from the video... I have the same problem. How do I hotwire the flow switch for diagnostics prior to ordering the switch? Which wires do i connect (on the device side) to simulate proper flow?
The connection was just to jumper to see if it was a flow switch problem. If that is the case with yours you will need to order a new switch and not leave it jumped. If the pump shuts down then the flow stops and the unit will still be powered.
my flow switch went red over a year ago. The connector inside the cell was no longer getting pressed down correctly so the unit thought the flow was bad. I took a twist-tie from a plastic baggie and tied it around the flow 'flapper'. It held it down, fooling the unit into thinking the flow was strong and worked that way for over a year. I now have the red light again and this time I think the switch has gone bad, so time to replace it.
Flow light was red. Tried everything in the book. Got zero support from Pentair and Aqua Tech, a local distributor. Didn't have the tools to test it properly, so I put a piece of tape around it to fool it into thinking it's touching. Works like a charm. MacGruber would be proud.
Can you leave it like this? Flow is simple to understand. Backwash regularly keep skimmers clean and check the water pressure at a return. Why must you turn the power to the cell off when turning the pump off?
Thank you for the information. To be clear: the red and black wires from the unit, not the switch, are connected together. What about the white and green ones from the unit? Connected together as well? I read from one of your other replies that none of the wires from the switch are connected to anything. Thank u
D Dutcher. If you are testing to see if the flow switch is the issue then you only connect the read and black that lead directly to the unit no other wires are connected.
I have an issue with reporting low salt (red light), but flow light is on. In your experience could this be a bad flow switch too. My IC-60 is only a year old.
I have all green but it reports 0 ppm back to the control system after having the right ppm earlier. Did the acid washing but to no effect. How do you cure the 0 ppm reporting? My pool guy says bad switch but like I said I have all green lights... any suggestions?
I have same issue, it's a bad flow switch. I replaced it two times already and it's the same problem every single time. I got about 6 months before the flow switch goes bad.
Yes you can keep it bypassed. Just make sure that the pump does indeed run constantly. If you need to backwash or turn the pump off for any reason turn the unit off as well.
Really hope this gets a response. So just to confirm the cutting / splicing sequence to bypass the flow switch... 1) cut the large wire between the switch and the cell and separate the 4 inner wires 2) (this is where i get a bit confused) connect together the red and black wires both from the cell side ? 3) reconnect the green wire back together from the cell to the switch side. Repeat this for the white wire ? 4) leave the red and black wires from the switch side cut / disconnected ? Thanks all.
Nobody ???
So we changed our flow switch but it did not correct this, the lights are still flashing red/green. What should we do now?
Be great if you could hear it too.
Thank you for posting. Simple diagnosis and very straightforward video.
Our flow light was red, and slat level was flashing back and forth. Our pool water was tested and the salt level was fine. Thanks to the video by AQUA PRO, I removed the white cap. Cut the one fat grey wire, exposing 4 thin wires (Green, White, Black and Red). then stripped ALL red AND black wires. Tied them ALL together. Turn the unit back on. Flow light went to green immediately. Flashing salt level lights kept flashed for about 2 minute then went green too. Amazing tip and thank you Mr. Aqua Pro . liked and subscribed for sure.
This is a temp sensor as well as a flow switch. Proper temp sensing is very important.
Thanks for the video. My IC40 started doing this right after I had a pool repair place change out my old pump. I spoke with them about it and they took the IC40 to their shop to test it. They informed me the cell was bad and needed to be replaced.....for $600. I asked about the possibility it was the flow switch and they said no, the other lights that were flashing wouldn't be doing that if it was just the flow switch. Well, I took the unit back from them and shorted the red and black wires while splicing through the green and white wires and guess what........all solid green lights now and it appears to be making chlorine. I just ordered a new flow switch for $60......a lot better than $600. Thank goodness because my IC40 is only a year old. Thanks again.
My flow would be green sometimes but red most of the times. I connected the red and black together but left the white and green not connected. Flow was still red. This is about 4 or 5 years old, so csn you still do this or can something else be wrong?
Thank you! this will do for now until my new flow switch arrives. :)
I can't discern from the video... I have the same problem.
How do I hotwire the flow switch for diagnostics prior to ordering the switch? Which wires do i connect (on the device side) to simulate proper flow?
Thanks! Turns out my flow switch is faulty. I connected the black to the red wire like you did and now the chorinator shows no flow problems!
The connection was just to jumper to see if it was a flow switch problem. If that is the case with yours you will need to order a new switch and not leave it jumped. If the pump shuts down then the flow stops and the unit will still be powered.
This would be great if we could see
Would be even better if we could hear...
my flow switch went red over a year ago. The connector inside the cell was no longer getting pressed down correctly so the unit thought the flow was bad. I took a twist-tie from a plastic baggie and tied it around the flow 'flapper'. It held it down, fooling the unit into thinking the flow was strong and worked that way for over a year. I now have the red light again and this time I think the switch has gone bad, so time to replace it.
Flow light was red. Tried everything in the book. Got zero support from Pentair and Aqua Tech, a local distributor. Didn't have the tools to test it properly, so I put a piece of tape around it to fool it into thinking it's touching. Works like a charm. MacGruber would be proud.
Can you leave it like this? Flow is simple to understand. Backwash regularly keep skimmers clean and check the water pressure at a return. Why must you turn the power to the cell off when turning the pump off?
If the flow switch is jumped then it is telling the cell it has flow even with the pump off. It will burn the cell without water flowing through it.
This helped me while I wait on my new switch. I will plan to run the pool non stop until then.. about 24hr.
Thank you for the information.
To be clear: the red and black wires from the unit, not the switch, are connected together. What about the white and green ones from the unit? Connected together as well?
I read from one of your other replies that none of the wires from the switch are connected to anything.
Thank u
D Dutcher. If you are testing to see if the flow switch is the issue then you only connect the read and black that lead directly to the unit no other wires are connected.
@@aquapro3311 if you do this and the cell still has a red flow light on, does that mean that the cell is bad?
Connect white to red/red to white and keep blacks together and greens together.
Worked for me as well. Thank you!
My question is if you jump it by putting red and black together from the unit eliminating the flow switch will the unit still produce chlorine?
I have an issue with reporting low salt (red light), but flow light is on. In your experience could this be a bad flow switch too. My IC-60 is only a year old.
I have all green but it reports 0 ppm back to the control system after having the right ppm earlier. Did the acid washing but to no effect. How do you cure the 0 ppm reporting? My pool guy says bad switch but like I said I have all green lights... any suggestions?
I have same issue, it's a bad flow switch. I replaced it two times already and it's the same problem every single time. I got about 6 months before the flow switch goes bad.
Thanks! You just saved me $500.
Yes you can keep it bypassed. Just make sure that the pump does indeed run constantly. If you need to backwash or turn the pump off for any reason turn the unit off as well.
We removed scale build up on flow switch and install it back in chlorinator and red light is off.
my IC40 does not have any red / black wires where you show--just a continuous wire --- this newer model- can't be jumped...
Yes it will generate chlorine because you fooled the unit into thinking that there is flow. Does that make sense?
Helpful, thank!
perfeito, tenho a I30 e funcionou perfeitamente depois de fazer a ligações como mostrado no video. Thank you
By doing this, do I really need to replace the flow switch?
See 'Show more' under Aqua Pro at top. Why is this 'HELP" video listed as being under "Category
Comedy"?
Your welcome!
Yeah this works. Co-signed