good start ,,, I normally trim the end plates on the new section both sides and top and bottom to a 25 degree angle , and clean the black paint off before putting the section in . makes fitting and welding a lot easier ,, and once fitted and painted on the outside , plenty of acf 50 on the inside . sometimes Ill put a couple of decent holes in the new section too to facilitate plug welding , if the old chassis is up to it at that point of courseI normally find the new section needs a trim at the joints too , then you can weld the new and the old section together at the lower edges as well , again it all needs to be clean or the whole thing turns into a pita very quickly.
Saves you having to go to the gym...💪 I think you made the right decision getting a chassis repair piece. What came out looks like a bit of the present day Titanic.
Great effort, I ran a length of threaded rod through the 2 holes at the front to keep them exactly in line when I did mine, worked a treat. Good luck, hope it welds on easily and quickly.
@@timmillikan1155 Thanks for that. However the words EASILY and QUICKLY ? Yes that would be nice to have the opportunity to use those words at some stage 😂
Nice repair panel but I wouldn’t overlap the outside and weld it, I would stagger the joints and plug weld plates to the inside of the chassis then plug weld the plates to the new section then seam weld the old and new chassis to the plates. I’ve done this before to series and defenders and it hard to tell it been repaired also it very strong. Just my thoughts and the way I would repair. Good luck with you Land Rover👍
I am a fit 71 year old, but I don't think I would be working on my Range Rover classic and my wife's Disco 1 if it wasn't for air and battery tools, wish I had them when I was younger .
Rushes to ebay to buy a "Tie Rod End Pitman Arm Kit Ball Joint Splitter" kit knowing he has this to look forward to (I'm changing my S2a steering rack to a S2 so I can fit the nice banjo steering wheel I bought!)
Great work again
@@keithr1814 Thanks for that. Glad you’re still enjoying. Thanks for the comment 😃👍
Looks already great with the new part in place! All the best!
Thankyou. Glad you’re enjoying it 😃👍
good start ,,, I normally trim the end plates on the new section both sides and top and bottom to a 25 degree angle , and clean the black paint off before putting the section in . makes fitting and welding a lot easier ,, and once fitted and painted on the outside , plenty of acf 50 on the inside . sometimes Ill put a couple of decent holes in the new section too to facilitate plug welding , if the old chassis is up to it at that point of courseI normally find the new section needs a trim at the joints too , then you can weld the new and the old section together at the lower edges as well , again it all needs to be clean or the whole thing turns into a pita very quickly.
Just finished watching, I must say what a fantastic job you are doing, looking forward to the welding 👍
You are welcome once again. Glad you’re looking forward to welding. There’s an awful lot needed on this Landy 😂
Seen people do that before with a piece of angle to line up the front spring hangers
Saves you having to go to the gym...💪 I think you made the right decision getting a chassis repair piece. What came out looks like a bit of the present day Titanic.
The Titanic ! 😂love it.! The repair piece was more expensive. Has definitely taken longer. But a better job in the end. Thanks for the comment. 😃👍
Great job and video, looking forward to see the new dumb iron section welded on!
Thanks for that and I will be glad to see it welded on and back together 😃👍
Great effort, I ran a length of threaded rod through the 2 holes at the front to keep them exactly in line when I did mine, worked a treat. Good luck, hope it welds on easily and quickly.
@@timmillikan1155 Thanks for that. However the words EASILY and QUICKLY ? Yes that would be nice to have the opportunity to use those words at some stage 😂
Tremendous video really enjoyed it , well done
Sorry I didn’t patch it up for you. Never mind. Plenty of patching on the bulkhead to come. Thanks for your kind comments. 😃👍
Nice repair panel but I wouldn’t overlap the outside and weld it, I would stagger the joints and plug weld plates to the inside of the chassis then plug weld the plates to the new section then seam weld the old and new chassis to the plates.
I’ve done this before to series and defenders and it hard to tell it been repaired also it very strong.
Just my thoughts and the way I would repair.
Good luck with you Land Rover👍
Thanks for the tips!
Good job. The steering relay can be a pig to get out. 🙂😁
@@ianwallett7438 yes I have experience of that job. However the angle grinder will be getting this one out !😂Thanks for all your comments. 😃👍
I am a fit 71 year old, but I don't think I would be working on my Range Rover classic and my wife's Disco 1 if it wasn't for air and battery tools, wish I had them when I was younger .
They certainly speed the job up ! Thanks for the comment 😀👍
Rushes to ebay to buy a "Tie Rod End Pitman Arm Kit Ball Joint Splitter" kit knowing he has this to look forward to (I'm changing my S2a steering rack to a S2 so I can fit the nice banjo steering wheel I bought!)
@@PaulMcGuinness 😂there is also a special extractor tool for the one on the steering box. Have fun. They are very stuck on ! 😃👍
@@Harveyorange7356 What tool is that one then?!
@@PaulMcGuinness search eBay for Land Rover drop arm puller. Be careful there are different sizes. 😃👍
Nice work. Would this have been easier with the front wings off? You make a difficult job look doable.👌
Hi Lance. Yes it would but because of the rusty and inaccessible bolts you are looking at an hour each to get them off ! Cheers Russ😃👍
@
Yes that would be a whole other bag of worms.
Cheers 🍻
If you ever remove the rear of the springs, the hangers are threaded. No point hammering the bolt after removing the nut.
@@EricaMTB I’ll watch out for that. Thanks. I may have to do that to refit. 😃👍