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Keep em coming

I subscribed 🤩, loving your videos please keep them coming.👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 up in Scotland the weather has eaten away at my chassis on my 2a but I love welding so it will get hours of love and much added weight 💪🏻😊🫣

I am a fit 71 year old, but I don't think I would be working on my Range Rover classic and my wife's Disco 1 if it wasn't for air and battery tools, wish I had them when I was younger .

If you ever remove the rear of the springs, the hangers are threaded. No point hammering the bolt after removing the nut.

Rushes to ebay to buy a "Tie Rod End Pitman Arm Kit Ball Joint Splitter" kit knowing he has this to look forward to (I'm changing my S2a steering rack to a S2 so I can fit the nice banjo steering wheel I bought!)

What engine is it that needs an oil cooler? Oh... and all 4 of the bumper bolts on my 109 snapped 🤣 - I put a crow-bar on them and banana'd the bolts till they came out the bottom!

I feel your pain... took the tub off my 109, of the 16 top bolts, 12 sheered. As for the tie-bar bolts... had to angry-grinder them all! 🤣

The camper heater will produce a dry heat. Those torpedo heaters work but, because they exhaust inside and the burning fuel produces CO2 and H2O, they do produce a lot of moisture which can mean rust issues on tools and other metal and you need some ventilation so you aren't asphyxiating yourself. They're also loud and a bit smelly.

Nice repair panel but I wouldn’t overlap the outside and weld it, I would stagger the joints and plug weld plates to the inside of the chassis then plug weld the plates to the new section then seam weld the old and new chassis to the plates. I’ve done this before to series and defenders and it hard to tell it been repaired also it very strong. Just my thoughts and the way I would repair. Good luck with you Land Rover👍

Looks already great with the new part in place! All the best!

Seen people do that before with a piece of angle to line up the front spring hangers

Nice work. Would this have been easier with the front wings off? You make a difficult job look doable.👌

Great job and video, looking forward to see the new dumb iron section welded on!

Great effort, I ran a length of threaded rod through the 2 holes at the front to keep them exactly in line when I did mine, worked a treat. Good luck, hope it welds on easily and quickly.

Good job. The steering relay can be a pig to get out. 🙂😁

Just finished watching, I must say what a fantastic job you are doing, looking forward to the welding 👍

Tremendous video really enjoyed it , well done

Saves you having to go to the gym...💪 I think you made the right decision getting a chassis repair piece. What came out looks like a bit of the present day Titanic.

Great work again

good start ,,, I normally trim the end plates on the new section both sides and top and bottom to a 25 degree angle , and clean the black paint off before putting the section in . makes fitting and welding a lot easier ,, and once fitted and painted on the outside , plenty of acf 50 on the inside . sometimes Ill put a couple of decent holes in the new section too to facilitate plug welding , if the old chassis is up to it at that point of courseI normally find the new section needs a trim at the joints too , then you can weld the new and the old section together at the lower edges as well , again it all needs to be clean or the whole thing turns into a pita very quickly.

Don't bother welding chassis you need a new one as you have nothing to weld to. It will not pass mot test otherwise.

Why are you wasting your time trying to remove rusty bolts. It’s clear that s3 needs a new chassis

Hi! Just stumbled on your channel! I have been down this road many times on my first 88'' 40+ years ago! I know people say put a new chassis on it, and I understand it is expensive, AND it is a big job, but if the front is this bad, what is the back like? Once rust like this is in a chassis, you are on a hiding to nothing - now I appreciate you can weld, but it is a massive job to get it right and correctly aligned If it were mine, I would be looking for a used chassis (rare) or a front end One idea I had was to find an ex MOD lightweight chassis and modify it = bet you can get a solid one cheap as chips as no one wants them, but a man of your skill could make if fit and it would be stronger and safer! (even if you cut the front half off, it would be stronger and less work) Not sure of the UK rules now as I have been away a long time, but I bet the original chassis number has rotted out! Here's a good place to start forum.militarylightweight.co.uk/ check out my channel Britannica Restorations Ltd Yours Mike

If at all financially possible, I would , and I did replace the entire chassis with a galvanised chassis and you can sit down afterwards and admire all of it for years. The chassis have increased in price since mine was replaced, but it does solve the problems for as long as you would ever need the vehicle. That way everything is aligned like factory.

I appreciate your dilemma. You can weld and piece in new metal to your hearts content. I too faced similar 109 woes, (1980, station wagon), very rusty indeed. It was the thickness of the remaining, good? Chassis that decided my direction. A new galvanised chassis. My first Land Rover project. Good luck.

have you really really looked at the back end of that car ,,, normally if the front end is that bad the rear end is worse and it needs a chassis ,,, [ and a bulk head , and seat box and both axle covers ] , be a shame to sort out that much rust and then have to start again at the back only to discover that the middle bit isnt great either.

New chassis for sure .! 😂😂😂😂😂😂

I’d certainly be looking at a front quarter chassis, with how rotten that is at the front, the more you cut away the more rot you’ll find, and whilst it is free (aside from the consumables) the end result will be a chassis that’s a patchwork quilt on the front end, and would be extremely labour intensive to get it looking anywhere as good as a replacement section, in regards to removing the steering arms, compared to the rest of the work ahead, it’s a walk in the park, and may also highlight other issues with the steering you wasn’t previously aware of, which is no bad thing on such a safety critical item!

I'm looking forward to restauring my 109 S2, which has a badly rotten chassis. I have to make up my mind , whether IT IS worthwhile to spend hours and hours in grinding and welding or go for a dip-zinc coated new one - from Maer, PL, for example. Heinz, Germany

That brought back old memories done 3 three of them old girls doing a 109 now nice video

At least the dog didn't walk in the oil and then on the living room carpet, keep videos coming 👍

What pushed me to put a front quarter chassis on mine was it had completely rotted away where the steering relay passes through the chassis. As well as plenty of rot on the dumb irons. 👍

What I like is 1) no fancy graphics/logos/music at the start..just straight into it 2) you don’t make wise cracks and try to impose your sense of humour onto us 3) you speak in the kind of language that we can understand 4) your camera placement, lighting and editing is first class. Little wonder I subscribed.

Oxy acetylene and heat the bolts red red hot on the springs and they will come easily

do they salt the roads there?

New chassis part would be my decision. Way too much patchwork

Great video, I love to see how you get around the difficulties . I think I’d like to see you fix what’s there as there’s lots of new crossmember videos. It’s so bad I’d love to see how you do it . However it’s your call .

I'd put a new chassis on it..I started work like this on a 109 3 years ago and im still at it. The time, money, faffing about making jigs etc all adds up. Chassis rot from the inside out so the rest of it will be worse than you think.

If you do decide to fit a replacement front end, you will at least know that the spring hangers are going to line up! Having patched a lot of old bangers in the past, I know what I would do.

I'd put a new front end on, that's as crusty as hell 😂

Personally I’d patch it up… Not worth putting a new front 1/4 in, as it could end up with a new chassis in the near future…

Great job. I’ve done the same on my 1970 Land Rover, so I enjoyed seeing this one come apart. I’ll look forward to the next installment.

That’s so helpful

Russ enjoyed the video

I guess I shouldn’t complain about an axle seal or transfer box seal leaking. That chassis rust would do me in! You have my respect.🙏

Here in Johannesburg South africa I just renovated my 69 2a 88 inch. No rust here as it's hot and dry.i bought a 65 2a 109 ex army as donar vehicle with genuine 18k miles on and every nut and bolt was original. I feel for you with all the rust and perhaps a new chassis is the answer. Good luck.

Hello I have put the new section on the complete dumb irons on my land rover and it was pretty simple would be the way forwards sorted for life as a verry important part with the steering relay there too cheers bill

Goog job👍🏼

How much work needs doing to the rear end and out riggers? Good luck with the rebuild, looking forward to the next episode

Good luck getting that oil cooler pipework off. Those connections are buggers to undo.