I will have to start using acetone because I've lost a few points inside 3-d targets! Also, I struggle with getting the point on straight sometimes. There is some skill involved!
I highly recommend you prep all points so that the glue (no matter what type you use) has a good surface to stick to. The brush that I use scores the inside of the point to give it "teeth" to hold on to the glue.
Your videos have helped me get started on making my own arrows. Thank you. Question: Do you know of a sleeve type screw in point adapter that fits over a wood shaft and enables going from screw-in field point to screw-in hunting head...or visa versa? Until I can buy your drill mounted point cleaning brush, I have used a coarse grit sandpaper. Thinking that this would imitate the better job of cleaning and "scoring" inside the point, that you have recommended.
I'm making my first set of crossbow bolts and used your video as a go by. I think I may have waited too long until the glue dried or set. It seems pretty difficult to scrape off the excess with a fingernail. Any other suggestions? Thanks
David James yeah if it cures it gets a little hard. You can use a box knife to carefully cut it off. Just be carful not to cut your self. I usually wait just until it cools enough so it doesn't burn my fingers. It's still hot but bearable. Hope that helps.
Is the Dremel bit you are using to scuff the insides of the field points a tapered wire brush or a tapered grinding bit? If it's a wire brush, do you know where to get one? I've looked around and it doesn't seem to be a standard rotary tool accessory. Thanks!
Rob Hamersma hi Rob. It is a tapered wire brush. They are available on my website. They are not a standard brush, they are tapered 5 degrees to match the field point. Here is a link. www.addictivearchery.com/products/point-brush
dakizmaj different glues have various melting points. You want a glue that is still pliable in cold weather so your points stay on when you hit something.
Akhtar Ahmad I really don't have one. This percentage can vary greatly. I have wood arrows that carry their weight evenly throughout and a small amount of FOC and Carbons that have extreme FOC, both fly well. I do think you need some FOC but have not come up with a specific number. Most of my arrows are around 650 grains with a 160 Grain tip on my wood arrows. That is my favorite hunting set up.
I will have to start using acetone because I've lost a few points inside 3-d targets! Also, I struggle with getting the point on straight sometimes. There is some skill involved!
Nice video, you make it look so easy because your taper is 100% perfect.
I've been following you on istagram and somehow didn't realize you had a TH-cam channel, it's fantastic! Keep up the awesome work.
Wesley Willard thanks. I'm hoping to get some time to make more videos.
Very neatly done wish I had watched this first I now know I Used too much glue.
So, it's better using hot melt glue instead of super glue? Thanks for the vid bro, i just learn about that now.
I have never considered tapering the inside of the point or cleaning it with acetone. I may give it a try.
I highly recommend you prep all points so that the glue (no matter what type you use) has a good surface to stick to. The brush that I use scores the inside of the point to give it "teeth" to hold on to the glue.
Your videos have helped me get started on making my own arrows. Thank you.
Question: Do you know of a sleeve type screw in point adapter that fits over a wood shaft and enables going from screw-in field point to screw-in hunting head...or visa versa?
Until I can buy your drill mounted point cleaning brush, I have used a coarse grit sandpaper. Thinking that this would imitate the better job of cleaning and "scoring" inside the point, that you have recommended.
Google Top Hat archery. They make an adapter that I think is what your looking for.
Great video, quick question how long will the glue stay fluid for or will it stay fluid as long as its hot 👍👍👍
frankie1956 it will stay fluid for as long as it’s hot.
I'm making my first set of crossbow bolts and used your video as a go by. I think I may have waited too long until the glue dried or set. It seems pretty difficult to scrape off the excess with a fingernail. Any other suggestions? Thanks
David James yeah if it cures it gets a little hard. You can use a box knife to carefully cut it off. Just be carful not to cut your self.
I usually wait just until it cools enough so it doesn't burn my fingers. It's still hot but bearable. Hope that helps.
Is the Dremel bit you are using to scuff the insides of the field points a tapered wire brush or a tapered grinding bit? If it's a wire brush, do you know where to get one? I've looked around and it doesn't seem to be a standard rotary tool accessory. Thanks!
Rob Hamersma hi Rob. It is a tapered wire brush. They are available on my website. They are not a standard brush, they are tapered 5 degrees to match the field point. Here is a link.
www.addictivearchery.com/products/point-brush
Do your tips stay on when pulled from 3D targets?
Yes, they do. I've had them come off before until I really started to prepare the point correctly. Now I don't lose them in the target.
what do you put in your bottle
Great, but if that burner should fall it will go on your lap. Bad idea to keep it near you like that.
Is that gluestick same stuff as other sticks for hot glue gun, or it is different?
dakizmaj different glues have various melting points. You want a glue that is still pliable in cold weather so your points stay on when you hit something.
Is two part epoxy ok to use?
what is your recommend percentage arrow front of center?
Akhtar Ahmad I really don't have one. This percentage can vary greatly. I have wood arrows that carry their weight evenly throughout and a small amount of FOC and Carbons that have extreme FOC, both fly well. I do think you need some FOC but have not come up with a specific number. Most of my arrows are around 650 grains with a 160 Grain tip on my wood arrows. That is my favorite hunting set up.
I dreams with this arrows...