It does look good my friend ,you do real good professional work. Can’t wait to see when you start Installing the body and everything else on it and to see the finished product , I’m sure it’s gonna look great.
Looks great, I never thought about just getting the kick up and welding it to a stock frame. I like how you went about it. Cleaner looks like it works great. Saw mike on this old hotrod use it I believe and he said nothing but good things as well. Thanks for the videos!
Nice work. As a tip, Simple Green almost straight is a great degreaser . I buy it by the 1.5 gal. jug. It is relatively inexpensive. If you are in a pinch, oven cleaner will kick grease off. Stay Real Rick
If you vee it right through no reinforcement is required your weld look plenty strong when you put reinforcement plates you create stiff points in the frame rails and these can become cracking points
Like your "traditional", no shortcuts, work habits!!! Kinda refreshing!! Would be interesting to compare "Easy Off" oven cleaner to that cleaner/degreaser. For cost and effectiveness. They likely both use lye if the grease turns brown when it's applied.
You do incredible work brother I'm from Fall River Mass soon as I get my cash together you will be helping me out your work is awesome want to build a 1930 sedan Flathead 9 in rear I got to sell one of my choppers
Looks good, though the rear should really be boxed and then fishplated to tie it all in. If it were me i'd of drilled a few holes into the kick up, plug welded a plate from the outside to the rail and kickup and then boxed and fishplated the internal side. I know you're going to plate over the join on the outside but it'd be far stronger to box and fishplate the inside to tie it all together.
Yeah for sure mate, you do super nice work so not trying to step on your toes but as a boilermaker by trade, and knowing the engineering rules over here in Aus that wouldn't pass at all. Looking at it the plate you've plug welded in isn't really doing anything as far as holding the kick up on as you've only really got the one vertical weld on it. It needs to be tied in more with fish plates and boxing. I think i'd leave it in there, box over the top and then run a fishplate over it. The fishplate length should be double the chassis height at the very least, so at least 8" / 200mm long with a few plug holes on each side, and fully weld it around. Don't stitch it in get it welded properly. Alternatively to plugging it with small holes you can drill a big hole with a hole saw on each side and "plug" the fishplate by welding all around the inside of the hole. You also want the ends of the fishplate rounded or cut on a 45 degree angle to extend the weld length on the end of the plate.
@@Nick-Kingsley that’s exactly what I was thinking, box over the plate I made then fish between the kick up and the boxed section of the old frame. Thanks for the input. Some guys on Facebook were being real assholes about it. I’ll always take constructive criticism just be a nice guy about it. Thanks again man and thanks for watching!
Travis, just took delivery of our 1930 Ford A Coupe, this car has to be done on a reasonable budget, I was looking at a Bowling Brothers Early Iron chassis until I watched this video, the stock chassis on my A is pretty nice, it would be almost a waste of $$$$$ not to use it. Did the 5" rear frame kick up that you used come from them? If not from them, can you tell me where you purchased it??? Also, was the 5" kick up enough?? Thanks!!
Travis can you please close the information about the kick ups and where you got them.....my opinion is leaving them long and It will looked like you were sitting on a set a 32 rails......that’s my opinion keep up the great work junkman do....yes they degreaser that they sent you,,,,,be real careful with it around your dogs,,,,I had a black lab get poisoned from some runoff water at the repair shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!! didn’t even realize it was happening till 24 hours later I almost lost her just an FYI
Like the look of the kick up but have to say the jointing process is poor practice. While easier to do with straight joints. The load carriage ability of the joint is poor. A better option would have been to angle cut the joints at something like 45 to 60 degrees. A fish plate inside the outer joint at a minimum. The little added inner plate doesn't do enough to support the joint. The weld quality, the prep work and the look all really good just the structural detail is poor in the excursion
I enjoy your channel and you do some great work good craftsman, but respectfully that is a very bad way to weld up a frame. In time to come it will fracture due to all the flexing it will do.
Finally found a builder that does it right by starting with clean sand blasted metal. Nice work!
Gotta do it Right!
I like the way you took your time to explain every detail Nice job.
You pay great attention to the details . Again what can I say GREAT job !!!
I try my best Paul!
I'm a little surprised you didn't just box the frame all the way forward to the center cross member. Beautiful welds, BTW. Very nice.
It does look good my friend ,you do real good professional work. Can’t wait to see when you start Installing the body and everything else on it and to see the finished product , I’m sure it’s gonna look great.
You do excellent work ...very precise
Looks great, I never thought about just getting the kick up and welding it to a stock frame. I like how you went about it. Cleaner looks like it works great. Saw mike on this old hotrod use it I believe and he said nothing but good things as well. Thanks for the videos!
Thanks for the compliments man, more to come on the kick ups!
Nice work. As a tip, Simple Green almost straight is a great degreaser . I buy it by the 1.5 gal. jug. It is relatively inexpensive. If you are in a pinch, oven cleaner will kick grease off.
Stay Real
Rick
Great work man, love the detail
Thanks man still needs finishing but the weekend is only so long! Haha
Nice clean work. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks man!
If you vee it right through no reinforcement is required your weld look plenty strong when you put reinforcement plates you create stiff points in the frame rails and these can become cracking points
Damn i'd love to work on some model A 💪
Really nice work. I’ve never really seen it none like that. I like the offset gussets.
Nice work/ vid! Really appreciate all your detailed explanations.
some good lookin welds right there
I appreciate that!!
Like your "traditional", no shortcuts, work habits!!! Kinda refreshing!!
Would be interesting to compare "Easy Off" oven cleaner to that cleaner/degreaser. For cost and effectiveness. They likely both use lye if the grease turns brown when it's applied.
Thanks pappa bob! I love working lol don’t know where I got it from
You do incredible work brother I'm from Fall River Mass soon as I get my cash together you will be helping me out your work is awesome want to build a 1930 sedan Flathead 9 in rear I got to sell one of my choppers
I’ll be happy to brother!
Looks good, though the rear should really be boxed and then fishplated to tie it all in. If it were me i'd of drilled a few holes into the kick up, plug welded a plate from the outside to the rail and kickup and then boxed and fishplated the internal side. I know you're going to plate over the join on the outside but it'd be far stronger to box and fishplate the inside to tie it all together.
Yeah I think I might do something like that instead. Always nice to have another set of eyes
Yeah for sure mate, you do super nice work so not trying to step on your toes but as a boilermaker by trade, and knowing the engineering rules over here in Aus that wouldn't pass at all. Looking at it the plate you've plug welded in isn't really doing anything as far as holding the kick up on as you've only really got the one vertical weld on it. It needs to be tied in more with fish plates and boxing. I think i'd leave it in there, box over the top and then run a fishplate over it. The fishplate length should be double the chassis height at the very least, so at least 8" / 200mm long with a few plug holes on each side, and fully weld it around. Don't stitch it in get it welded properly. Alternatively to plugging it with small holes you can drill a big hole with a hole saw on each side and "plug" the fishplate by welding all around the inside of the hole. You also want the ends of the fishplate rounded or cut on a 45 degree angle to extend the weld length on the end of the plate.
@@Nick-Kingsley that’s exactly what I was thinking, box over the plate I made then fish between the kick up and the boxed section of the old frame. Thanks for the input. Some guys on Facebook were being real assholes about it. I’ll always take constructive criticism just be a nice guy about it. Thanks again man and thanks for watching!
My friend. I like Shoebox and Studebaker. From Garibaldi RS Brazil. Thank.
Are you willing to share the measurements/dimensions you ordered of the frame sweep section?
I just called up Boling brothers and told them I just wanted the rear 5” kick up section from their model a frames.
@@RACGARAGE do you think a rumble seat could still be usable in the trunk after the 5” sweep?
@@swannyssalvage5360 hmmmmm, you might have to get crafty with the seat bottom, but anything’s possible
Nice frame to chop up
Nice! Where did you have the frame sand blasted?
BCS company up in Thompson
If you put it behind the axle you would gain at least three more inch drop
Should of put the guesett on inside of rail for a smoother look
Smoother look for sure but not safer. I’d rather it be safer. Don’t want to take chances
Looks good, what is the drop? A 4" drop the depth of the frame rail like Tardel style?
Thanks man! It’s a 5” drop from stock
AWESOME VID THANKS FOR SHARING
I'm ordering some of that super clean for a motor I'm getting ready to degrease.
Works great!
Very nice
Travis, just took delivery of our 1930 Ford A Coupe, this car has to be done on a reasonable budget, I was looking at a Bowling Brothers Early Iron chassis until I watched this video, the stock chassis on my A is pretty nice, it would be almost a waste of $$$$$ not to use it. Did the 5" rear frame kick up that you used come from them? If not from them, can you tell me where you purchased it??? Also, was the 5" kick up enough?? Thanks!!
Yes that is a boling brothers special!
Haha! Factory-ish is good enough for me. Nice vid, Thx!
I like your truck bet it's good on gas
You didn’t need any gusset that was plenty strong with that inner plate .
Easy off oven cleaner will do the same thing
Where you been , that shit been out for years and everybody that builds cars knows about it nice sales pitch
Haha idk probably under a rock
Travis can you please close the information about the kick ups and where you got them.....my opinion is leaving them long and It will looked like you were sitting on a set a 32 rails......that’s my opinion keep up the great work junkman do....yes they degreaser that they sent you,,,,,be real careful with it around your dogs,,,,I had a black lab get poisoned from some runoff water at the repair shop!!!!!!!!!!!!!! didn’t even realize it was happening till 24 hours later I almost lost her just an FYI
I left a link in the description for the company that did the kick ups, you have to call and special order them, they can do any bends you want.
You need a pressure washer. Nice work as always.
I really do!
you should cut the frame on a 45 not a straight cut A 45 give a larger weld area
Very true, I should have done that. Next time I will
Also consider a Z cut.
Super Clean is a great product. But, when grease is heavy. Use cheap simple ol oven cleaner. Works better than ANYTHING!!!!!
Great tip!
Like the look of the kick up but have to say the jointing process is poor practice. While easier to do with straight joints. The load carriage ability of the joint is poor. A better option would have been to angle cut the joints at something like 45 to 60 degrees. A fish plate inside the outer joint at a minimum. The little added inner plate doesn't do enough to support the joint. The weld quality, the prep work and the look all really good just the structural detail is poor in the excursion
Great content. You really could use a pickup truck. :)
Thanks so much!
I enjoy your channel and you do some great work good craftsman, but respectfully that is a very bad way to weld up a frame. In time to come it will fracture due to all the flexing it will do.
i dont, i had to sell it. youtube life is hard! haha
No. It’s not going back to stock.
Never! Modify everything!!
Needs to be boxed all the way!!!!!
It’s just a flathead v8. Not enough power to need a boxed frame.