Hey Alex. Been a fan for the past maybe four years. I found your videos when l was looking to make an enclosure for my Chinese Water Dragon and I’ve enjoyed them since. Cheers haha.
Thanks a ton! I was worried how to set it up as our room also gets very hot and the method of gauging temperature with the heat panel on had me concerned, so knowing Bob thinks this method works too puts me way at ease for when we are not home and can’t adjust the room temperature ourselves. 🎉
Nice video and make a lot of sense to ensure that the cool side never drops below a set valve. All I ask is how you ensure that the is a hotside at a the right temp to please
Excellent question! That is where the specific model of heat panel comes into play. When I spoke to Bob at ProProducts. He told me that since I was keeping a corn snake, using a probe on the cool side with this method, that the heat panel model he suggested will keep the warm side from 85-90 degrees. (This is why ProProducts asks you tell them the specific reptile species you’ve got because they know the specific panel you’ll need based on your enclosure). Hopefully that makes sense. If not, do comment with any further questions!
Ok, I really like that "high hide" idea! How do you have it attached to the enclosure's ceiling? I'm guessing it's not just glued up there, since there would be no way to clean it, so I'm curious. Thanks!
Hello! The “sky hide” is done by ordering a XL black hide box and PVC “sky hide” piece from Reptile Basics. You screw the PVC piece to the top of the cage. The hide then slides in and out with ease for cleaning, while also giving the snake its “high hide”. Hopefully that helps!
@@AlexsAgamids I see! That's a pretty cool idea. My snake isn't exactly an arboreal species (woma python), but I do like to give her options. I'll have to consider that.
This actually make alot of sense for climates that tend to keep homes warm. We have a 6x2x2 pvc and we have the probe floor level in the middle of the tank. Seems to work well for our all over the place NY State weather however in the summer I'm thinking I will try your idea and see if it keeps a more consistent temperature.
I know this is an older video which was very helpful, I was actually wondering how you placed the hide on the roof of the enclosure to ensure you can remove to clean?
Excellent question! So the “sky hide” is mounted via a PVC bracket sold by Reptile Basics (here’s the link: www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes/hide-box-hanger-large/) There is a gap in the bracket so the rim of the hide box slides right in. You can then just slide the hide out easily if you need to clean it!
I have a longer panel... what direction do I orient the panel for best heat and efficiency? The panel is nearly the exact same temp as the width of the enclosure. Saw another video where the panel goes longways with the direction of the enclosure.
Pro product by far the best heat panel for reptile my probe is and inch off floor of enclosure under heat panel with Herpstat 6 keeping a 90 hot side 80 cool side using the ramping on herpstat
I really appreciate this video! I’ve been running a heat panel a few months with no regulation because it doesnt get too hot in her enclosure.. but I really like the idea of focusing on an ideal cool side and let ambient temps handle the rest.
Still confused about how to achieve an 85 degree hot spot if the RHP is set to 75 for ambient temp. Is that hide you made up top the snakes access to the hot spot as it’s closer to the RHP? Would I have to make a similar hide setup to achieve this hot spot or can I put a hide on the floor?
The hotspot varies from 83-94 depending on the duration of the heat panel. The key with this method is to always ensure the enclosure never overheats (i.e: warmer days the panel runs less, and runs more on cooler days) Nature is never consistent in temps, hence why I don't mind letting the hot side fluctuate and it gives the snake access to more temperatures. The "sky hide" is from Reptile Basics. just a PVC sheet that has a small gap so the hide can slide in and mount to the top.
If the probe is on the cool side and the rhp runs until the cool side is 75, then the hot side directly under the rhp is going to be a lot warmer than 75.
I have a water dragon who is probably one and a half and she is developing a bump on her bottom lip, it dosent protrude all in one spot but the scales bump out on one side of her jaw, it randomly appeared about a week ago, do you have any idea what it could be? wa
Your best bet will be to have a qualified exotic vet take a look at your dragon. They’ll be able to determine a proper diagnosis as far as what the “bump” is.
@@AlexsAgamids ok, I checked on it again this morning and the teeth around it are turning black but I'm pretty sure it isn't mouth rot but thankyoi I hopefully can figure it out with a vet
My room swings between 70 and 75 degrees. If I place the probe directly under the panel will it keep the hot spot where my snake hides the same no matter the temperature in the room is?
This panel cost me $137 (that’s including shipping). Definitely worth the money compared to other brands of radiant heat panels available within the reptile industry.
When it is 79 degrees without the heat panel on doesn't that mean that he has no temperature gradient? Like there is no basking spot because the entire enclosure is at 79 degrees with no heat panel running? PS, I'm just genuinely curious.
Correct. That way it prevents the enclosure from overheating. For example: if the room was 79-80 degrees, but I had the thermostat probe on the warm side set to say 88. Then the cool side of the cage could be 85!!! So by using this probe method. It ensure the heat panel is always on in a dimmed state to offer that hot spot on the shelf. But the moment the ambient room temperature rises, the thermostat probe detects that and thus the heat panel will not run (that helps avoid the risk of the snake overheating)
A recommendation: would love to see your feeder insect setup (updated at least). I’m honestly guilty of really enjoying caring for feeders and unboxing them even though I don’t consider them pets.
I can definitely add that to my list of videos to make. I mostly just breed dubia and then buy my other feeders. However each feeder needs a tub to be setup in, so I can certainly show it in a video!
@@AlexsAgamids Thank you!! That’s not bad at all. I just wish they atleast showed prices and picture of the different product on they offer. New ball python and reptile owner for about 3 months now. Switching from a glass tank to a pvc terrarium from animal plastics and that’s how I’ve come across Pro Products. Again thanks.
@@Keith-xz2hd You’re welcome! The main reason why they don't list the different models of heat panels is because you have to email them and explain the exact size of the enclosure, amount of ventilation, average room. temps, etc. So the heat panel I have is the model that works for my specific setup. You may need a different panel (higher or lower watts). Just give them a call or shoot them an email and they'll take care of you!
@@AlexsAgamids yea I’m emailing them now. Another reason they don’t list any they say cause people will order them up and be ordering what they don’t need. I just got a quote for 2 PH-3 panels for $254.60. That’s with shipping too. My set up will be 2 pvc terrariums from Animal Plastics with dimensions of 48x24x12x & 48x24x15x
It's pretty straight forward. I covered the three main points in the video, 1: The radiant heat panel is plugged into the thermostat. 2: The probe of the thermostat is placed on the cool side of the enclosure dangling in the air. 3: Set the thermostat probe to the "cool side" temperature requirements of your species. This way the heat panel will turn on/off to maintain the necessary ambient temperatures within the enclosure, and the area right under the heat panel will provide the necessary hotspot for your snake. The benefit to this methodology is that should your reptile room get too warm, the heat panel will turn off since the probe is measuring the ambient temperature of the enclosure.
Bro your suppose to put the probe on the heat panel...if you put it too far away the heat panel will get extremely hot to make the whole cage to that temp
I appreciate the input! However as stated in the video. The way this method works is to prevent the entire enclosure from overheating. (Which is how Pro-Products suggests) By having the probe on the cool side. You can then set the temp to your desired temperature for your snake (i.e: corn snake cool side at 75.7 Fahrenheit). Thus the heat panel will turn on and off to keep the overall ambient temps at 75.7, but IF the reptile room was to get warmer (say 78-80) then the cage will sit at 78-80 and the heat panel will not be running, thus eliminating the risk of the snake overheating. Hopefully that makes sense! This enclosure is going on over two years with this method & I’ve never had temperature issues!
The only downside is he can't really bask at all if the hottest his enclosure gets is 79. Especially in the days after a meal that's not ideal imo. Interesting idea to consider though.
Hey! Not sure if you watched the whole video. But the way this technique works is that by having the probe on the "cold side" the heat panel is therefore always on, but dimmed in order to keep the cold side at the desired temperature. Thus with the ledge and warm side, he will always have access to a spot that is anywhere from 82 Fahrenheit (lower area) to upwards of 88-90 Fahrenheit on the shelf so he can heat up/digest meals. The other pro to this technique is that in the event my reptile room was to get too warm (above 77-80 in the summer per say), then the heat panel will not be running to risk overheating the cool side. My apologizes if i didn't make that clear in the video! This is the probe placement technique that was given to me by Bob himself from Pro Products. ~ Alex
I've never heard this method! good to learn more options! Thank you! I've been using DHP but want to upgrade to an RHP when my boa gets his 5x3x2 enclosure. We are in a basement in the northern midwest of the US; it's usually about 62-68 in summer and 58-64 in winter in my rooms. I worry more about making sure he has a good place to digest and bask, but putting the probe in the cool area set to the coolest temp makes sense for sure! I may have to try that out!
Like your idea of this prob placement and the idea for the hide upside down high up very cool . From a Zimbabwean
Hey Alex. Been a fan for the past maybe four years. I found your videos when l was looking to make an enclosure for my Chinese Water Dragon and I’ve enjoyed them since. Cheers haha.
Thanks a ton! I was worried how to set it up as our room also gets very hot and the method of gauging temperature with the heat panel on had me concerned, so knowing Bob thinks this method works too puts me way at ease for when we are not home and can’t adjust the room temperature ourselves. 🎉
This is some great Info and a different way of looking at temps. I really like this way. I’ll give It a try.
great video
Nice video and make a lot of sense to ensure that the cool side never drops below a set valve. All I ask is how you ensure that the is a hotside at a the right temp to please
Excellent question!
That is where the specific model of heat panel comes into play.
When I spoke to Bob at ProProducts. He told me that since I was keeping a corn snake, using a probe on the cool side with this method, that the heat panel model he suggested will keep the warm side from 85-90 degrees. (This is why ProProducts asks you tell them the specific reptile species you’ve got because they know the specific panel you’ll need based on your enclosure).
Hopefully that makes sense. If not, do comment with any further questions!
Ok, I really like that "high hide" idea! How do you have it attached to the enclosure's ceiling? I'm guessing it's not just glued up there, since there would be no way to clean it, so I'm curious. Thanks!
Hello!
The “sky hide” is done by ordering a XL black hide box and PVC “sky hide” piece from Reptile Basics.
You screw the PVC piece to the top of the cage.
The hide then slides in and out with ease for cleaning, while also giving the snake its “high hide”.
Hopefully that helps!
@@AlexsAgamids I see! That's a pretty cool idea. My snake isn't exactly an arboreal species (woma python), but I do like to give her options. I'll have to consider that.
Thanks for sharing the video. I'm going to oder a heat panel for my large vision cage.
Glad I could help!
This actually make alot of sense for climates that tend to keep homes warm. We have a 6x2x2 pvc and we have the probe floor level in the middle of the tank. Seems to work well for our all over the place NY State weather however in the summer I'm thinking I will try your idea and see if it keeps a more consistent temperature.
I know this is an older video which was very helpful, I was actually wondering how you placed the hide on the roof of the enclosure to ensure you can remove to clean?
Excellent question!
So the “sky hide” is mounted via a PVC bracket sold by Reptile Basics (here’s the link: www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes/hide-box-hanger-large/)
There is a gap in the bracket so the rim of the hide box slides right in. You can then just slide the hide out easily if you need to clean it!
New cage looks great! Great info for when I get my snake.
I have a longer panel... what direction do I orient the panel for best heat and efficiency? The panel is nearly the exact same temp as the width of the enclosure. Saw another video where the panel goes longways with the direction of the enclosure.
I’d say go long ways and try to center is between the width of your enclosure.
That way the heat will more evenly spread throughout the setup.
Pro product by far the best heat panel for reptile my probe is and inch off floor of enclosure under heat panel with Herpstat 6 keeping a 90 hot side 80 cool side using the ramping on herpstat
I thought that thermostat sounded amazing then I looked it up and it better be for being the price of 2 AnimalPlastics T8's
@slippedknot2001
I use HerpStat’s on all my enclosures.
Definitely worth the investment to make sure your heat panels are running precisely 👍🏻
Smart move, I like this idea.
you method makes more sense
I really appreciate this video! I’ve been running a heat panel a few months with no regulation because it doesnt get too hot in her enclosure.. but I really like the idea of focusing on an ideal cool side and let ambient temps handle the rest.
Just ordered 2 p-12 and spyder herp 2. Hopefully this gives me the best setup for mine.
Still confused about how to achieve an 85 degree hot spot if the RHP is set to 75 for ambient temp. Is that hide you made up top the snakes access to the hot spot as it’s closer to the RHP? Would I have to make a similar hide setup to achieve this hot spot or can I put a hide on the floor?
The hotspot varies from 83-94 depending on the duration of the heat panel. The key with this method is to always ensure the enclosure never overheats (i.e: warmer days the panel runs less, and runs more on cooler days)
Nature is never consistent in temps, hence why I don't mind letting the hot side fluctuate and it gives the snake access to more temperatures.
The "sky hide" is from Reptile Basics. just a PVC sheet that has a small gap so the hide can slide in and mount to the top.
If the probe is on the cool side and the rhp runs until the cool side is 75, then the hot side directly under the rhp is going to be a lot warmer than 75.
I have a water dragon who is probably one and a half and she is developing a bump on her bottom lip, it dosent protrude all in one spot but the scales bump out on one side of her jaw, it randomly appeared about a week ago, do you have any idea what it could be? wa
Your best bet will be to have a qualified exotic vet take a look at your dragon.
They’ll be able to determine a proper diagnosis as far as what the “bump” is.
@@AlexsAgamids ok, I checked on it again this morning and the teeth around it are turning black but I'm pretty sure it isn't mouth rot but thankyoi I hopefully can figure it out with a vet
My room swings between 70 and 75 degrees. If I place the probe directly under the panel will it keep the hot spot where my snake hides the same no matter the temperature in the room is?
Yup!
Just make sure the panel isn’t always running too warm in the event your cold side overheats.
nice video how much did the panel cost you?
This panel cost me $137 (that’s including shipping).
Definitely worth the money compared to other brands of radiant heat panels available within the reptile industry.
When it is 79 degrees without the heat panel on doesn't that mean that he has no temperature gradient? Like there is no basking spot because the entire enclosure is at 79 degrees with no heat panel running? PS, I'm just genuinely curious.
Correct.
That way it prevents the enclosure from overheating.
For example: if the room was 79-80 degrees, but I had the thermostat probe on the warm side set to say 88. Then the cool side of the cage could be 85!!!
So by using this probe method. It ensure the heat panel is always on in a dimmed state to offer that hot spot on the shelf. But the moment the ambient room temperature rises, the thermostat probe detects that and thus the heat panel will not run (that helps avoid the risk of the snake overheating)
A recommendation: would love to see your feeder insect setup (updated at least). I’m honestly guilty of really enjoying caring for feeders and unboxing them even though I don’t consider them pets.
I can definitely add that to my list of videos to make. I mostly just breed dubia and then buy my other feeders. However each feeder needs a tub to be setup in, so I can certainly show it in a video!
@@AlexsAgamids Dubia roaches are definitely my favorite feeders to keep. They don’t stink and they’re not loud! Anyways, can’t wait for that video! 😄
How much for the panel from ProbProducts?
This model ran me $136. They have a bunch of different sizes though which will vary in costs.
@@AlexsAgamids Thank you!! That’s not bad at all. I just wish they atleast showed prices and picture of the different product on they offer. New ball python and reptile owner for about 3 months now. Switching from a glass tank to a pvc terrarium from animal plastics and that’s how I’ve come across Pro Products. Again thanks.
@@Keith-xz2hd You’re welcome!
The main reason why they don't list the different models of heat panels is because you have to email them and explain the exact size of the enclosure, amount of ventilation, average room. temps, etc.
So the heat panel I have is the model that works for my specific setup. You may need a different panel (higher or lower watts).
Just give them a call or shoot them an email and they'll take care of you!
@@AlexsAgamids yea I’m emailing them now. Another reason they don’t list any they say cause people will order them up and be ordering what they don’t need. I just got a quote for 2 PH-3 panels for $254.60. That’s with shipping too. My set up will be 2 pvc terrariums from Animal Plastics with dimensions of 48x24x12x & 48x24x15x
Wonderful!
I believe my model was the PH-3.
You’re definitely getting the best panels the reptile industry has to offer!
RABA RABA RABA just kidding, thank you for the info!
So basically, aim your probe for whatever the most variable spot in the enclosure is and adjust until you hit it
Correct!
I still can’t figure out how to use this thing lol
It's pretty straight forward.
I covered the three main points in the video,
1: The radiant heat panel is plugged into the thermostat.
2: The probe of the thermostat is placed on the cool side of the enclosure dangling in the air.
3: Set the thermostat probe to the "cool side" temperature requirements of your species. This way the heat panel will turn on/off to maintain the necessary ambient temperatures within the enclosure, and the area right under the heat panel will provide the necessary hotspot for your snake.
The benefit to this methodology is that should your reptile room get too warm, the heat panel will turn off since the probe is measuring the ambient temperature of the enclosure.
Bro your suppose to put the probe on the heat panel...if you put it too far away the heat panel will get extremely hot to make the whole cage to that temp
I appreciate the input!
However as stated in the video. The way this method works is to prevent the entire enclosure from overheating.
(Which is how Pro-Products suggests)
By having the probe on the cool side. You can then set the temp to your desired temperature for your snake (i.e: corn snake cool side at 75.7 Fahrenheit).
Thus the heat panel will turn on and off to keep the overall ambient temps at 75.7, but IF the reptile room was to get warmer (say 78-80) then the cage will sit at 78-80 and the heat panel will not be running, thus eliminating the risk of the snake overheating.
Hopefully that makes sense!
This enclosure is going on over two years with this method & I’ve never had temperature issues!
The only downside is he can't really bask at all if the hottest his enclosure gets is 79. Especially in the days after a meal that's not ideal imo. Interesting idea to consider though.
Hey! Not sure if you watched the whole video. But the way this technique works is that by having the probe on the "cold side" the heat panel is therefore always on, but dimmed in order to keep the cold side at the desired temperature. Thus with the ledge and warm side, he will always have access to a spot that is anywhere from 82 Fahrenheit (lower area) to upwards of 88-90 Fahrenheit on the shelf so he can heat up/digest meals.
The other pro to this technique is that in the event my reptile room was to get too warm (above 77-80 in the summer per say), then the heat panel will not be running to risk overheating the cool side.
My apologizes if i didn't make that clear in the video! This is the probe placement technique that was given to me by Bob himself from Pro Products.
~ Alex
I've never heard this method! good to learn more options! Thank you! I've been using DHP but want to upgrade to an RHP when my boa gets his 5x3x2 enclosure. We are in a basement in the northern midwest of the US; it's usually about 62-68 in summer and 58-64 in winter in my rooms. I worry more about making sure he has a good place to digest and bask, but putting the probe in the cool area set to the coolest temp makes sense for sure! I may have to try that out!