Print speed is interesting, not least because I have done no experimentation on the subject. For me, speed is not an issue, I set to print and walk away until its finished. What I want is quality. I have printed stuff that took 17 hours in ABS and Carbon Fiber Nylon, it was fine. I appreciate if your printer is in constant use, or you just want a timely print when you want one, then for some it will be different.
I know right? Unfortunately, that is the design of this printer. I can't change that unless I print a mount for the filament sensor or just not use it at all. This printer, the Kobra 2 Pro, has threaded inserts on the top cross beam so I could add a spool holder on top but I am afraid it might destabilise it during printing as this printer can achieve 20K acceleration and it already shakes a bit when printing in its standard configuration. And yes!! We do sell to the USA :)
@@3DJake_Official the filament sensor isn't too picky about how it's mounted. You can just mount it on the reverse bowden with a small coupling tube. Make sure your reverse bowden tube is not 2mm ID, but larger. There's no need to constrain the path of the filament.
How to make you own printer part 4 when ? Love your vids but im sitting on the edge of my seat waiting for that series to continue because im really interested what direction you will take for the small printer.
We keep getting delayed with this, I'm really sorry, the prototype is literally sitting on my desk right now and I work on it whenever I have time but sometimes it is difficult :( We haven't given up on it though, its gonna come out.
@3DJake_Official thanks for the reply, it's good to hear you haven't abandoned the project. If it turns out as good as im expecting it to, it might turn out to be a hot seller if you decide to turn it into an affordable kit. Personally I've been looking at the Voron v0.2 but considering the size and the default spec it comes out relatively expensive so it would be amazing to have a different recipe for a small printer. Keep up the good work and props for being engaged with your community.
The flow is scaled proportionately to speed. But the actual test results shown are all flow test results not speed tests. The actual prints depicted are demonstrative, we didn't use those to formulate results, it would be really inaccurate if we did.
Why are you setting 22 mm³/s as 100 %. This is already quite high and regarding your graphs, some filaments are already on the declining part of the flow-curve.
sorry a few were cut off at the beginning, but the percentage drop is accurate in those. All the filament tested could print without any underextrusion up to a minimum of 20mm³/s with the exception of the TPU. They all basically plateaued until then so that's where we cut it, shouldn't of though, sorry for the confusion.
@@noktrnl123 Heya! No problem, thanks for your comment :) I think it is important to note the different factors involved. When I said 30 I was talking about the absolute max, I wouldn't recommend this for anything but draft prints as was mentioned so 28 would be the best bet for a good quality-speed ratio. And these were for the higher temperature test, it is important to note the effect temperature has on flow rate and at lower temperatures 22 would be the best choice. Most filament manufacturers don't say anything about this relationship so we thought it best to explain :)
Very useful video, thanks! Your regular pla actually looks really good :)
Print speed is interesting, not least because I have done no experimentation on the subject. For me, speed is not an issue, I set to print and walk away until its finished. What I want is quality. I have printed stuff that took 17 hours in ABS and Carbon Fiber Nylon, it was fine. I appreciate if your printer is in constant use, or you just want a timely print when you want one, then for some it will be different.
Really hoping to see hyper or rapid pla in this.
Interesting results.
Your Bowden is hitting extreme angles. I'd suggest routing the filament from the backside. Also do you sell to the USA?
I know right? Unfortunately, that is the design of this printer. I can't change that unless I print a mount for the filament sensor or just not use it at all. This printer, the Kobra 2 Pro, has threaded inserts on the top cross beam so I could add a spool holder on top but I am afraid it might destabilise it during printing as this printer can achieve 20K acceleration and it already shakes a bit when printing in its standard configuration.
And yes!! We do sell to the USA :)
@@3DJake_Official the filament sensor isn't too picky about how it's mounted. You can just mount it on the reverse bowden with a small coupling tube. Make sure your reverse bowden tube is not 2mm ID, but larger. There's no need to constrain the path of the filament.
How to make you own printer part 4 when ?
Love your vids but im sitting on the edge of my seat waiting for that series to continue because im really interested what direction you will take for the small printer.
We keep getting delayed with this, I'm really sorry, the prototype is literally sitting on my desk right now and I work on it whenever I have time but sometimes it is difficult :(
We haven't given up on it though, its gonna come out.
@3DJake_Official thanks for the reply, it's good to hear you haven't abandoned the project.
If it turns out as good as im expecting it to, it might turn out to be a hot seller if you decide to turn it into an affordable kit.
Personally I've been looking at the Voron v0.2 but considering the size and the default spec it comes out relatively expensive so it would be amazing to have a different recipe for a small printer.
Keep up the good work and props for being engaged with your community.
@@brunobule6887 Thank you!!! This will definitely be a lot more affordable than a V0.2!
Hope we can get it done soon :)
Why on earth would you scale steps with speed and not flow. Speed means nothing on a flow test.
The flow is scaled proportionately to speed. But the actual test results shown are all flow test results not speed tests. The actual prints depicted are demonstrative, we didn't use those to formulate results, it would be really inaccurate if we did.
Why are you setting 22 mm³/s as 100 %. This is already quite high and regarding your graphs, some filaments are already on the declining part of the flow-curve.
sorry a few were cut off at the beginning, but the percentage drop is accurate in those. All the filament tested could print without any underextrusion up to a minimum of 20mm³/s with the exception of the TPU. They all basically plateaued until then so that's where we cut it, shouldn't of though, sorry for the confusion.
You said 30mm to start then said 28 now it's 22. I'm not trying to be an as*hole but it's not matching up and will misinform new ppl to printing.
@@noktrnl123 Heya! No problem, thanks for your comment :) I think it is important to note the different factors involved. When I said 30 I was talking about the absolute max, I wouldn't recommend this for anything but draft prints as was mentioned so 28 would be the best bet for a good quality-speed ratio. And these were for the higher temperature test, it is important to note the effect temperature has on flow rate and at lower temperatures 22 would be the best choice. Most filament manufacturers don't say anything about this relationship so we thought it best to explain :)
What printer did you use to get 150mm/s using TPU?
FLSUN V400, very good results :)