As a new self builder , this is the best video series going. Very apparent have learned process as a self builder yourself and the key points and thought process behind “how do I do this” needed as a new builder is spot on. Much appreciated
I go through this pad foundations in a little more detail in my videos on the steel work linked below . These pads had to be done in a second pour, due to them being much deeper and wider than the strip foundations. I’ll never mix up depths in the same pour if I can avoid it, unless you’re very experienced at form work. Leave the reinforcement sticking out of the first pour so you can get it to bind in to the new pour for the pad. You want them all to act together as one. Preparing for steelwork - can you do it yourself? th-cam.com/video/P7SSktZs4-g/w-d-xo.html Installing steel beams for a house extension th-cam.com/video/3t9r2dwvAFA/w-d-xo.html
As a newbie to renovation, this is an ecvellent vlog for looking at the basics of foundation building. The French do not use foundations (at least old houses), its a case of starting the foundations without anything to go on. This is a great series and very honest.
Thanks. It’s also the case in the U.K. that older houses were not built with concrete foundations. They just dug down and built off what they saw to be bedrock.
Indeed they did. I am now having to overcome issues that comes with a renovation. One of the biggest issues is rain, lots of rain. The water table is so high that our newly laid concrete floor is flooding. I think that a very deep French drain system may be the best way ahead, but the house was built on hard sandstone, so its a nightmare to dig through. What do you think?
Wow, best video for foundations out there. Straight forward, clear and really good video work. Just one question before I start my foundation drawings, which looks like an almost exact copy of your project, just before you pour, at 11:19 you show the reinforcing rebar laying on top of the old foundation where it abuts the house. The level peg also looks above the old foundation. Am I right in thinking you poured to about 50mm above the old foundation level? Much appreciated videos.
Hi and thanks for the encouragement. I poured flush with the existing foundation level because I had to get the brick courses to line through, because of the facing brick. If you don’t have facing brick, not so important, although good practice. The rebar over the foundation is because I’m creating an additional pad foundation for the steel column for the goal post. I explain it more in my other videos
@@build-better-things Ah, thank you for the reply. It is now completely clear. Hoping to be toothing out original wall to accept new facing bricks so must line through. Many thanks.
G Another useful video thanks. Why do you only pour concrete to 250mm then use trench blocks, can you just fill the complete trench with concrete up to dpc level to avoid laying trench blocks then start brick laying? Secondly, if it was out of plumb by a big distance say 1cm, would the builder just be able to get it horizontal again when laying the trench blocks which i assume need cement under them anyway? Im expecting my structural cals etc in the next week,so am keen to understand as much as possible when the building work finally starts. You videos are very helpful thanks
On your second question, each brick course is 10mm of mortar, 1cm, so depending on the number of courses below DPC level, you can make up a few millimetres to level. Your first question is dependent on a number of factors. To have that depth of concrete, I guess would require some reinforcement design by your engineer (imagine pushing horizontally on the concrete without reinforcement at that height, it would snap and crumble). Factoring in the complexity of that versus a simple 250mm strip foundation and building your trench blocks off it is the decision to make.
Great video. Just wanted to ask if you leave wooden pegs in and pour concrete over them or do you take them out at some point? And if left in, does it pose any structural risk to the footing if it degrades in the future?
If you mean the depth of the trench, it was around 1100 mm from memory. If you mean the depth of the concrete, again from memory, 250mm. Best of luck with your project.
I didn’t remove them, I just move them up as the pour takes place and then reshore them with the battens. I only remove them once I backfill after the trench block is in place. However here I leave them as sacrificial since it’s a very small proportion of the length of the strip that is affected versus any potential lateral differential movement. Thanks for the comment
Good question. For that tiny amount of surface area given pegs are standing vertical , and with the mesh reinforcement over the pegs, I’m not going to worry about leaving them in. You could always use rebar pegs instead if you’re concerned…and pass it by your engineer.
I’ll be making another video as soon as I can about how much I spent and the breakdown of costs. Is there any area of cost in particular you want to know about? Thanks for the comment.
For these small domestic concrete construction projects, it’s not financially feasible, anywhere, never mind in the developed world….to use your words….to hire a pump, where it’s possible to take in by wheelbarrow.
@@build-better-things Its not even about "financially feasible" its about can't be fked with it. to much effort running back and forth with a wheelbarrow. I''ve pumped concrete for an extension pal. So clearly I know a bit more about about it than you. Can't speak for all developed countries but I can say that they do it in the US, Australia and New Zealand. I know Oz and NZ by first hand experience and the US by talking to builders that worked there. Its a pity you take this stance as your channels not bad, but I guess the uk is just too proud and too poor these days to recognize they're falling behind.
If you want to pump concrete for your extension then go for it, nothing stopping you, usually hire with the readymix company. The reason I didn’t dwell on it is twofold, 1. because it’s easy to make mistakes with the pour if you’re inexperienced, compared to wheelbarrow. 2. I’ve pumped loads of jobs, but I would avoid a small house extension like this because of cost.
And if you make any mistakes it’ll cost you a fortune to correct. If you think it’s expensive hiring an expert, it’s nothing compared to how much it’ll cost you using a novice
The point of the video is to explain in advance the pitfalls and the techniques of pouring concrete so people, novices, can make an informed decision for themselves, plan and execute. If you never learn, never risk, then you never have reward. I guess your view is one way of leading your life, but it’s not for me.
As a new self builder , this is the best video series going. Very apparent have learned process as a self builder yourself and the key points and thought process behind “how do I do this” needed as a new builder is spot on. Much appreciated
Thanks a lot. Really appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Just came accross your videos. Brilliantly presented! Cheers for the help!
Thank you
Thank you for appointing the attention to details. 👍👍👍
Thanks for taking the time to comment. 👌
Really great Videos and Explanations! Have you done any videos specifically on the Pad Foundations that were required for you Steel Goal Post?
I go through this pad foundations in a little more detail in my videos on the steel work linked below . These pads had to be done in a second pour, due to them being much deeper and wider than the strip foundations. I’ll never mix up depths in the same pour if I can avoid it, unless you’re very experienced at form work. Leave the reinforcement sticking out of the first pour so you can get it to bind in to the new pour for the pad. You want them all to act together as one.
Preparing for steelwork - can you do it yourself?
th-cam.com/video/P7SSktZs4-g/w-d-xo.html
Installing steel beams for a house extension
th-cam.com/video/3t9r2dwvAFA/w-d-xo.html
As a newbie to renovation, this is an ecvellent vlog for looking at the basics of foundation building. The French do not use foundations (at least old houses), its a case of starting the foundations without anything to go on. This is a great series and very honest.
Thanks. It’s also the case in the U.K. that older houses were not built with concrete foundations. They just dug down and built off what they saw to be bedrock.
Indeed they did. I am now having to overcome issues that comes with a renovation. One of the biggest issues is rain, lots of rain. The water table is so high that our newly laid concrete floor is flooding. I think that a very deep French drain system may be the best way ahead, but the house was built on hard sandstone, so its a nightmare to dig through. What do you think?
@@davidbuckley1332 Build off the sandstone
Wow, best video for foundations out there. Straight forward, clear and really good video work. Just one question before I start my foundation drawings, which looks like an almost exact copy of your project, just before you pour, at 11:19 you show the reinforcing rebar laying on top of the old foundation where it abuts the house. The level peg also looks above the old foundation. Am I right in thinking you poured to about 50mm above the old foundation level? Much appreciated videos.
Hi and thanks for the encouragement. I poured flush with the existing foundation level because I had to get the brick courses to line through, because of the facing brick. If you don’t have facing brick, not so important, although good practice. The rebar over the foundation is because I’m creating an additional pad foundation for the steel column for the goal post. I explain it more in my other videos
@@build-better-things Ah, thank you for the reply. It is now completely clear. Hoping to be toothing out original wall to accept new facing bricks so must line through. Many thanks.
Thank you
Great content - thanks 👍🏻
Fantastic!!!
Fantastic
Quality video mate 👍
Thanks a lot. ☺️
G
Another useful video thanks. Why do you only pour concrete to 250mm then use trench blocks, can you just fill the complete trench with concrete up to dpc level to avoid laying trench blocks then start brick laying? Secondly, if it was out of plumb by a big distance say 1cm, would the builder just be able to get it horizontal again when laying the trench blocks which i assume need cement under them anyway? Im expecting my structural cals etc in the next week,so am keen to understand as much as possible when the building work finally starts. You videos are very helpful thanks
On your second question, each brick course is 10mm of mortar, 1cm, so depending on the number of courses below DPC level, you can make up a few millimetres to level. Your first question is dependent on a number of factors. To have that depth of concrete, I guess would require some reinforcement design by your engineer (imagine pushing horizontally on the concrete without reinforcement at that height, it would snap and crumble). Factoring in the complexity of that versus a simple 250mm strip foundation and building your trench blocks off it is the decision to make.
Great video. Just wanted to ask if you leave wooden pegs in and pour concrete over them or do you take them out at some point? And if left in, does it pose any structural risk to the footing if it degrades in the future?
If I’m using mesh within the strip, andi usually will be, I’ll leave the pegs in for something as shallow as this. Thanks a lot for the comment
Would it please be possible to share the excel spreadsheet
Did you share a link for the free 3D website that you use?
Hi. I’m not sure what you mean by 3d website. Do you mean sketchup? Or my own website?
Hello , I want to do the same for my porche Foundation,I want ask what was the height of concrete poured please
If you mean the depth of the trench, it was around 1100 mm from memory. If you mean the depth of the concrete, again from memory, 250mm. Best of luck with your project.
At what point did you remove the timber struts and ply shoring the trench as these can lead to rot/settlement?
I didn’t remove them, I just move them up as the pour takes place and then reshore them with the battens. I only remove them once I backfill after the trench block is in place. However here I leave them as sacrificial since it’s a very small proportion of the length of the strip that is affected versus any potential lateral differential movement. Thanks for the comment
Did you leave your levelling pegs in the footing or pull them out before it cured? Thanks, great video.
Good question. For that tiny amount of surface area given pegs are standing vertical , and with the mesh reinforcement over the pegs, I’m not going to worry about leaving them in. You could always use rebar pegs instead if you’re concerned…and pass it by your engineer.
@@build-better-things They might rot and the whole thing will fall down. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
How much did it cost for the extension
I’ll be making another video as soon as I can about how much I spent and the breakdown of costs. Is there any area of cost in particular you want to know about? Thanks for the comment.
Did you run into any party wall agreement cost ?
It is a detached house, so no party walls
0:46 uk is still in the stone age, barrowing concrete. Most of the developed world pumps concrete now.
For these small domestic concrete construction projects, it’s not financially feasible, anywhere, never mind in the developed world….to use your words….to hire a pump, where it’s possible to take in by wheelbarrow.
@@build-better-things Its not even about "financially feasible" its about can't be fked with it. to much effort running back and forth with a wheelbarrow. I''ve pumped concrete for an extension pal. So clearly I know a bit more about about it than you. Can't speak for all developed countries but I can say that they do it in the US, Australia and New Zealand. I know Oz and NZ by first hand experience and the US by talking to builders that worked there. Its a pity you take this stance as your channels not bad, but I guess the uk is just too proud and too poor these days to recognize they're falling behind.
If you want to pump concrete for your extension then go for it, nothing stopping you, usually hire with the readymix company. The reason I didn’t dwell on it is twofold, 1. because it’s easy to make mistakes with the pour if you’re inexperienced, compared to wheelbarrow. 2. I’ve pumped loads of jobs, but I would avoid a small house extension like this because of cost.
And if you make any mistakes it’ll cost you a fortune to correct.
If you think it’s expensive hiring an expert, it’s nothing compared to how much it’ll cost you using a novice
The point of the video is to explain in advance the pitfalls and the techniques of pouring concrete so people, novices, can make an informed decision for themselves, plan and execute. If you never learn, never risk, then you never have reward. I guess your view is one way of leading your life, but it’s not for me.
"mixing by hand" 😂😂🤣🤣😆😆