Thanks for posting these videos Chris. My problems start at the sanding and buffing stage. I make a nice surface when spraying finish and then seem to make it worse during sanding and buffing. I am in the process of gathering parts to build your buffing machine and I am switching to Bright Tone finish as opposed to nitrocellous lacquer. I really appreciate your in-depth discussions on theses topics. Where do you plan on moving the motor on your buffer?
Nice Job, and beautiful Shine!! Chris, you mentioned going back to Super Assilex in the future. I am curious if this guitar was a continuation of your last video where you used 3M Hookit? I ordered a sample pack from eBay to give it a try and am interested in hearing what you didn’t like about it.
Great video! How many wheels do you normally use? 3? And what is the purpose of the shield? Flying debri??? In another one of your videos, you used your drill press with foam wheel to remove circle scratches(scratch out?) But not in this video. Is that not a normal step, just if u need to do? Thanks again! Love your videos!
I use two 14" wheels on each side. The shield is to keep compound dust and wheel lint off my face. It gets everywhere. I don't use the foam pads with this setup. No need to.
@@HighlineGuitars sorry for all the questions and thanks for being patient with me :) my next question is we have a new machine that has a grinder on one side and a buffer on the other. Its speed is 3600 RPM. I know this is way higher than yours. Will this machine work or will I burn thru the finish too quick? I need your expert opinion before I start buying compounds and extra wheels. Thanks again!
@@laurielindquist3907 That's way too fast. Not only will you run the risk of burn through, but the heat generated at that speed will soften the clear coat too much and that can make it very delicate to handle and cause it to shrink back into the wood.
Hey Chris, I noticed on the Menzerna website they have a compound (P275) that's in between the P204 and P175. Would there be any benefit to having the P275 in the finishing schedule? I know you're getting good results without it but I'm curious if you just spending a little more time with the P175 on the buffing wheel to compensate. Thanks!!
The compounds you'll use will depend on the level and polish sanding grits and technique you use prior to buffing. I use 600 grit Super Assilex to level with a hard block and polish sand with 800-1,500 grit Super Assilex on a soft block followed by 2,000-3,000 grit Supler Buflex. The P204 quickly brings out a high gloss shine and the P175 rapidly enhances its clarity. With this approach, P275 is unnecessary. However, if you use a different approach to level and polish sanding, P275 might be useful. It certainly won't hurt, but there will be added cost for the compound/wheels, and time spent buffing.
I have no idea. If I were to try and mimic it, I would print the swirl as a black and white graphic and laminate it to the body. Then I would airbrush the colors over the top. Finally, I would clear coat it.
@@AleArzMusic Kinda looks like maybe it could be achieved by hydro dip painting? If you were really careful about properly preparing the swirl pattern, though it'd be one hell of a task to get it that clean. Also just had another thought. In some of them, it almost looks like the colour is really cleanly sectioned compared to the texture (www.sevenstring.org/threads/jackson-usa-kelly-ke2-eerie-dess-swirl.278844/). What if you did a swirl/hydrodip in just white on black, and then airbrushed essentially a regular burst finish over it?
@@dojix96 that'd be a great explaination, thank you. May perfectly apply for the USA made Eerie Dess Swirl models. I personally have a Japan made KE3 and KBX and they even look more popping. There was something wrong with your link, here's the correct one www.sevenstring.org/threads/jackson-usa-kelly-ke2-eerie-dess-swirl.278844/
Hey Chris, great video as always. Just wanted to ask as I've never used a buffing wheel before; I noticed you put your hand up close near the wheel while charging it with the compound (10:50), what were you feeling/looking for there?
Love, love, love your attention to detail on your channel Chris.
Beautiful finish. Definitely a technique and skill that takes time and practice to become adept at.
Really informative video. Nice job, Chris.
Fantastic. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thanks for posting these videos Chris. My problems start at the sanding and buffing stage. I make a nice surface when spraying finish and then seem to make it worse during sanding and buffing. I am in the process of gathering parts to build your buffing machine and I am switching to Bright Tone finish as opposed to nitrocellous lacquer. I really appreciate your in-depth discussions on theses topics. Where do you plan on moving the motor on your buffer?
Nice Job, and beautiful Shine!!
Chris, you mentioned going back to Super Assilex in the future. I am curious if this guitar was a continuation of your last video where you used 3M Hookit? I ordered a sample pack from eBay to give it a try and am interested in hearing what you didn’t like about it.
The 3M Hookit is good stuff, but the Super Assilex is more advanced. It also goes up to 3,000 grit whereas the Hookit only goes to 1,500.
Great video! How many wheels do you normally use? 3? And what is the purpose of the shield? Flying debri??? In another one of your videos, you used your drill press with foam wheel to remove circle scratches(scratch out?) But not in this video. Is that not a normal step, just if u need to do? Thanks again! Love your videos!
I use two 14" wheels on each side. The shield is to keep compound dust and wheel lint off my face. It gets everywhere. I don't use the foam pads with this setup. No need to.
@@HighlineGuitars sorry for all the questions and thanks for being patient with me :) my next question is we have a new machine that has a grinder on one side and a buffer on the other. Its speed is 3600 RPM. I know this is way higher than yours. Will this machine work or will I burn thru the finish too quick? I need your expert opinion before I start buying compounds and extra wheels. Thanks again!
@@laurielindquist3907 That's way too fast. Not only will you run the risk of burn through, but the heat generated at that speed will soften the clear coat too much and that can make it very delicate to handle and cause it to shrink back into the wood.
Hey Chris, I noticed on the Menzerna website they have a compound (P275) that's in between the P204 and P175. Would there be any benefit to having the P275 in the finishing schedule? I know you're getting good results without it but I'm curious if you just spending a little more time with the P175 on the buffing wheel to compensate. Thanks!!
The compounds you'll use will depend on the level and polish sanding grits and technique you use prior to buffing. I use 600 grit Super Assilex to level with a hard block and polish sand with 800-1,500 grit Super Assilex on a soft block followed by 2,000-3,000 grit Supler Buflex. The P204 quickly brings out a high gloss shine and the P175 rapidly enhances its clarity. With this approach, P275 is unnecessary. However, if you use a different approach to level and polish sanding, P275 might be useful. It certainly won't hurt, but there will be added cost for the compound/wheels, and time spent buffing.
Great video 👍
Just wondering....any idea how they made eerie dess swirl finishes back in the day? Love your channel
I have no idea. If I were to try and mimic it, I would print the swirl as a black and white graphic and laminate it to the body. Then I would airbrush the colors over the top. Finally, I would clear coat it.
@@HighlineGuitars that's definitely a good call! Thank you!
@@AleArzMusic Kinda looks like maybe it could be achieved by hydro dip painting? If you were really careful about properly preparing the swirl pattern, though it'd be one hell of a task to get it that clean.
Also just had another thought. In some of them, it almost looks like the colour is really cleanly sectioned compared to the texture (www.sevenstring.org/threads/jackson-usa-kelly-ke2-eerie-dess-swirl.278844/). What if you did a swirl/hydrodip in just white on black, and then airbrushed essentially a regular burst finish over it?
@@dojix96 that'd be a great explaination, thank you. May perfectly apply for the USA made Eerie Dess Swirl models. I personally have a Japan made KE3 and KBX and they even look more popping.
There was something wrong with your link, here's the correct one
www.sevenstring.org/threads/jackson-usa-kelly-ke2-eerie-dess-swirl.278844/
How many of the flannel buffing wheels do you stack together on each side?
Same question. And a preferred source?
Hey Chris, great video as always. Just wanted to ask as I've never used a buffing wheel before; I noticed you put your hand up close near the wheel while charging it with the compound (10:50), what were you feeling/looking for there?
I am feeling for stray strands. You'll know they are there when they sting your hands. If they can sting your hands, they can scratch the finish.
Are both buffing wheels the same, only changing the compounds?
Yes.
How about black finish? It is seem like hearder to get glossy
I haven't found black to be any harder to gloss. However, it does show fingerprints and flaws much more readily.
@@HighlineGuitars pk thanx. But do you know why some buffing guitar make surgace looks like hazzy or not clear
Hi Chris. What water based clear do you use?
Crystalac Brite Tone