I'm in the process of rebuilding a sbc 5.7 engine. Thank you for giving a "common sense" demo on adjusting a tight thrust bearing surface. Very helpful video.!!
Always showing the little things that come with a build. It’s the small things that really count with the mechanics of an engine though. Keep up the great videos.
I didn't do this and now I'm having rebuild a rebuild do to a warped crankshaft that was wore out in tearing it I checked and had almost 20 tho. Clearance. Yes very important to clear and catalog everything. Great video brother 👍
Question what's the main bearing clearance should be. Stock crack stock main bearings? My block is a 638 tbi block.. and then the rod bearing clearance also?
There was one sbc I built that had excessive end clearance (.035). Put it together anyway. There was no noticeable difference. I thought there would be a clunking sound under load, which would get worse over time. Ran it for around 50,000 miles. Seemed ok. No clunking under load or no-load. Most of the other engines I did were within spec.
I went to replace the rear main seal on my 93' 200k mile SBC the other day. Found a 2" long sliver of bushing material behind the old seal. Checked my endplay, .050. Still runs smooth as can be. Probably gonna do a rering/refresh this summer now that I know about it.
By bending the bearings is only a short term fix! To do it right! Is to get a oversized thrust bearing, and machine the crankshaft for proper clearance. If the original crankshaft has to much clearance , it will need to be machined anyway.
@@cuttersperformance I know just the rear has thrust but just want to make sure if i should torque down all the others and the rear a bit loose when tapping with mallet? or leave them all a bit loose when tapping. Also when i measure end play with mic all should be torqued down? Thanks i appreiate ya
Do you ever use bearing blue to find and the scrap high spots on the main bearings? Or do you simply out the main bearings in and check with plastigauge?
is it possible for a higher mileage engine to have enough wear in the main bearings that there's up-and-down play (floating) at the front or rear of the crank?
Quite honestly, I think most people get this and have researched it. It was on of the first things I learned 4 decades ago. A better video would be of aligning the rear main on a BBC. It's easy, but most people don't even know that it needs to be done simply because of the over abundance of information on the sbc. Just about everyone assumes hat they see with the sbc holds true with the big block. Also, a venier caliper will not give an accurate reading. A standard micrometer should be used and measured on at 3, 6, 9 and 12' oclock positions. I'm not critiquing you, I'm just giving you my acquired knowledge of 37yrs in a auto machine shop. Peace out
I was asked by a subscriber on how I do crank end play, so I thought I would just make a video. I've had great luck with this method and I know alot of guys do the same or similar. I find a good set of calipers can be very accurate when used probably and I find most guys that dont have much experience with a micrometer will probably get more accurate results with a vernier caliper. I appreciate the input and thanks for checking out my video Cheers!
I'm in the process of rebuilding a sbc 5.7 engine. Thank you for giving a "common sense" demo on adjusting a tight thrust bearing surface. Very helpful video.!!
The best thing about this channel isn’t identifying a problem, it’s how to deal with it.
Thanks Jim! Appreciate that man
Always showing the little things that come with a build. It’s the small things that really count with the mechanics of an engine though. Keep up the great videos.
I know it's an older video but I always enjoy your content,doesn't hurt anyone to sharpen up their skills now and then 😉
I didn't do this and now I'm having rebuild a rebuild do to a warped crankshaft that was wore out in tearing it I checked and had almost 20 tho. Clearance. Yes very important to clear and catalog everything. Great video brother 👍
Sorry to hear about your engine! Let me know if you have any questions during your rebuild
Cheers!.
For sure and I appreciate it.
Thank you so much for a great video, I thought replacing the bearings on my small block was a plug-and-play not so much..
I'm on my first rebuild, 1954 - 1958 6-226 this helped a lot thanks
Awesome! Glad to hear
Another great video. 👍 a big ole thumbs up.
Appreciate that!
Thanks, very good instructions!
Question what's the main bearing clearance should be. Stock crack stock main bearings? My block is a 638 tbi block.. and then the rod bearing clearance also?
I appreciate the information. Thanks for putting this video together.
There was one sbc I built that had excessive end clearance (.035). Put it together anyway. There was no noticeable difference. I thought there would be a clunking sound under load, which would get worse over time. Ran it for around 50,000 miles. Seemed ok. No clunking under load or no-load. Most of the other engines I did were within spec.
I went to replace the rear main seal on my 93' 200k mile SBC the other day. Found a 2" long sliver of bushing material behind the old seal. Checked my endplay, .050. Still runs smooth as can be. Probably gonna do a rering/refresh this summer now that I know about it.
By bending the bearings is only a short term fix! To do it right! Is to get a oversized thrust bearing, and machine the crankshaft for proper clearance. If the original crankshaft has to much clearance , it will need to be machined anyway.
Question do you torque all the other bearings accept the rear before u hit with mallet?
You can torque or even just snug the rest. Only the rear thrust needs to be aligned
Thank u sir
@@cuttersperformance I know just the rear has thrust but just want to make sure if i should torque down all the others and the rear a bit loose when tapping with mallet? or leave them all a bit loose when tapping. Also when i measure end play with mic all should be torqued down? Thanks i appreiate ya
How do you keep the shaft within tolerance?
Great video! Ty
Do you ever use bearing blue to find and the scrap high spots on the main bearings? Or do you simply out the main bearings in and check with plastigauge?
Don't typically use platigauge, i use a bore gauge
Good information
is it possible for a higher mileage engine to have enough wear in the main bearings that there's up-and-down play (floating) at the front or rear of the crank?
Yes, this then leads to a drop in oil pressure since oil escapes in the larger bearing/crank gap and then main bearing failure.
@@MrNRAInstructor thanks for the reply! sounds like i found the likely culprit for the daily-driven LT1 Camaro's ~5psi of oil pressure at hot idle 😂
Where are you from man?
Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
Paper shims work just as good
Paper shims?
SAY WHAT??
Quite honestly, I think most people get this and have researched it. It was on of the first things I learned 4 decades ago. A better video would be of aligning the rear main on a BBC. It's easy, but most people don't even know that it needs to be done simply because of the over abundance of information on the sbc. Just about everyone assumes hat they see with the sbc holds true with the big block. Also, a venier caliper will not give an accurate reading. A standard micrometer should be used and measured on at 3, 6, 9 and 12' oclock positions. I'm not critiquing you, I'm just giving you my acquired knowledge of 37yrs in a auto machine shop. Peace out
I was asked by a subscriber on how I do crank end play, so I thought I would just make a video. I've had great luck with this method and I know alot of guys do the same or similar. I find a good set of calipers can be very accurate when used probably and I find most guys that dont have much experience with a micrometer will probably get more accurate results with a vernier caliper.
I appreciate the input and thanks for checking out my video
Cheers!
Howdy
Hawko is that you?