@@thenandnowautomotive547 Wow! that would be cool! Apparently the 9143 was a one year only for 49. As I mentioned it is cross referenced to a 9488 and one other one that ended in 55 [I think] Any idea what would be different about the various pump numbers.
@@rosshodge333 The 9143 was for the 49 only. The engineers changed something inside the pump which made them issue a new number 9455 for the pump. Then it happened again, and they issued yet another number 9488. This all happened in 1949. Each time an improvement came along, they needed to assign a new number. The changes could have been a spring rate change, or a casting improvement, even a change in the material the arm was made out of. Despite all that, the internal parts are all the same.
Outstanding well laid out and easy to follow instructional video. I’ll be pulling it off to get the correct numbers to order my kit. Verify the kits are made in the USA?
@@thenandnowautomotive547 that's very nice of you, no hurry on it, thank you. One question, how to determine if there is too much side to side play in the pump arm? I will probably replace the pin in there too
Great video just in time for my rebuild, ordered the wrong rebuild kit from Chevs of the 40s , they couldn’t cross reference my pump 4666, just ordered the FPA-244 from you , I could see right away the shaft for the air diaphragm was wrong on the one I ordered, I sure learned a lot from watching your video , I do have a couple questions I will try calling Monday, thanks Mike
Any bead blasting requires TOTAL disassembly of components and VERY thorough cleaning so as to remove ALL blast media from components......If this is ignored, you will leave blast media lodged in the component that will dislodge in operation and cause damage/premature wear to internal engine surfaces.......... For this same reason, NEVER use spark plugs that have been bead blasted. Don't believe me............do your own research. Thanks for the tutorial on this antique fuel pump. This will help greatly when I assist a friend in rebuilding his........
You are absolutely correct. After bead blasting a pump, the entire assembly is washed with brake clean, then blown dry. Brake clean doesn't leave a residue like carb cleaner, and drys quickly.
Question, when pre-loading the diaphragm on the fuel side, the arm is pushed down all the way, which pushes the diaphragm all the way down, not neutral, like the air side, correct?
Hi Doug. The 1117 pump sounds like an Airtex number. It is an AC clone made by Airtex. I have retired from this shop, and do not rebuild pumps anymore, just monitor this channel for technical advice. I'll look through my videos and see if I can find an AC pump that is similar to yours.
Ok, I understand now. Those are tools that I made. The large one can be made using a 12 point socket I think is 3/4”. The smaller one can be made using a 12point 9/16 socket.
In theory, yes, but they are two completely different body styles. I can do up a video on the one for your 41 if it will help, it's just going to take me a few days to do it and upload it.
Then And Now Automotive, my car is a 1941 Series A Special Business Coupe in superb condition. Just before our borders closed in March here in Australia (due to COVID) I did an 11-day/1,300 mile driving vacation and she didn’t miss a beat. However the bottom of my vac/fuel pump is very wet and it leaks oil onto the floor of my garage. Nothing too serious but I’d like to rectify the problem. Glenn at Old Buick Parts says if my pump hasn’t been changed then “519,529,530 or 843 will be on the fuel pump body somewhere”. I’ll need to check.
Then And Now Automotive, I only just saw this earlier message from you sorry. You’re very prompt thanks. A video would be fabulous thanks! My wife and I are going away in the car on the weekend - a 250 mile round trip (2 nights away).
The second diaphragm assembly is to supply vacuum assist for the windshield wipers. It is sometimes used to provide vacuum to operate the heater doors on some cars.
Ihad a couple questions i will call today but i thought i would ask a couple of them,the top rubber seal under the cup on the top on mine, has two about 1/4 inch holes looks to me they were supposed to be there, i first noticed mine failing because i seen fuel coming out of the two weep holes on the casting on the body under the fuel diaphragm is that a common place to fail, and is the fuel always supposed to stay above the fuel diahragm, also the vacuum lines were looped when i got the truck, is that ok, there was engine oil in the vacuum side , and last i can see the seals were peened down like you do do i just pry the old ones out with a screw driver and before putting the new ones in clean the holes up then put seals in and re peen them down, , oh by the way my pump still lets the truck run but i would say it time for a rebuild? thanks much Mike
I see those pulsator diaphragms with those holes in them all the time. It was there to keep the fuel from producing a thumping noise which sometimes happened. It has since been deemed unnecessary. Any fuel coming from the vent holes is an indication that the diaphragm is failing. Looping the vacuum ports is a no no. It doesn't allow the air flow that it produces to go anywhere and the end result is the vacuum diaphragm stops and the link inside that actuates it ends up snapping. You are correct in the process for the oil seal. It needs to be staked in to keep it from lifting and letting oil go into that area and make a mess. Usually if the seal on the fuel side fails, the oil ends up in the vacuum side of the pump and gets pumped out thru the vent at the back of the pump.
Ok so even if I don’t hook the wipers back up which I plan on doing it is better to leave the air lines open just filter so dirt doesn’t get in ? Thanks so much
@@DesertRatFabrication Yes. If I get a pump in where the customer isn't going to use the vacuum half of the pump, I take the vacuum diaphragm and cut off the pull rod down to about a 1/2" and install it upside down. That is the only time those ports can be actually blocked off. Otherwise do it like you said by putting a filter in the suction side.
Just one more question is the fuel supposed to always stay above the diaphragm, because as I mentioned before fuel was coming out of the weep holes on the body, but when I took the pump apart I didn’t see a hole or anything in the diaphragm, thanks again Mike
Great intructional video, helped me al lot while rebuilding my 1956 Buick special pump 👍
Glad I was able to help.
found this to be one of the best instructional videos I have watched.
Very nice video. Thanks
Great reference video. I have to rebuild a AC 9143 [marked 9488 with a 9143 tag] for my 49 Caddy. Thanks for posting!
Glad to be able to help. Your 9143 pump would use our kit number FPA-184. I'll see if I have one of those pumps and do a video on rebuilding it.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 Wow! that would be cool! Apparently the 9143 was a one year only for 49. As I mentioned it is cross referenced to a 9488 and one other one that ended in 55 [I think] Any idea what would be different about the various pump numbers.
@@rosshodge333 The 9143 was for the 49 only. The engineers changed something inside the pump which made them issue a new number 9455 for the pump. Then it happened again, and they issued yet another number 9488. This all happened in 1949. Each time an improvement came along, they needed to assign a new number. The changes could have been a spring rate change, or a casting improvement, even a change in the material the arm was made out of. Despite all that, the internal parts are all the same.
Ross, the video for the 1949 Cadillac has been uploaded.
Outstanding well laid out and easy to follow instructional video. I’ll be pulling it off to get the correct numbers to order my kit. Verify the kits are made in the USA?
Kits are made daily in Massachusetts
Outstanding, buy American the job you save may be your kids.
Great Video. Tanks for posting it.
Great video! I'm getting ready to rebuild my 59 tbird dual action pump. Looks very similar.
Thank you. Same thing only different. Grab me the number off the mounting flange of the pump and if I have a core here, I'll do a video on it.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 4206
@@jaredgambrill4782 I do have one of those. I should be able to do a video on it tomorrow and upload it tomorrow when I get home.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 that's very nice of you, no hurry on it, thank you. One question, how to determine if there is too much side to side play in the pump arm? I will probably replace the pin in there too
@@jaredgambrill4782 I'll explain the play in the arm in the video. Easier than trying to explain it in here.
Great video just in time for my rebuild, ordered the wrong rebuild kit from Chevs of the 40s , they couldn’t cross reference my pump 4666, just ordered the FPA-244 from you , I could see right away the shaft for the air diaphragm was wrong on the one I ordered, I sure learned a lot from watching your video , I do have a couple questions I will try calling Monday, thanks Mike
Glad the video helped. I agree that the FPA-244 is the correct kit.
Any bead blasting requires TOTAL disassembly of components and VERY thorough cleaning so as to remove ALL blast media from components......If this is ignored, you will leave blast media lodged in the component that will dislodge in operation and cause damage/premature wear to internal engine surfaces.......... For this same reason, NEVER use spark plugs that have been bead blasted. Don't believe me............do your own research. Thanks for the tutorial on this antique fuel pump. This will help greatly when I assist a friend in rebuilding his........
You are absolutely correct. After bead blasting a pump, the entire assembly is washed with brake clean, then blown dry. Brake clean doesn't leave a residue like carb cleaner, and drys quickly.
Question, when pre-loading the diaphragm on the fuel side, the arm is pushed down all the way, which pushes the diaphragm all the way down, not neutral, like the air side, correct?
Yes, absolutely correct.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 Awesome, thanks!
Video on 1117 international pump please and thank you.
Hi Doug. The 1117 pump sounds like an Airtex number. It is an AC clone made by Airtex. I have retired from this shop, and do not rebuild pumps anymore, just monitor this channel for technical advice. I'll look through my videos and see if I can find an AC pump that is similar to yours.
great video , now I need to rebuilt my 1950 Buick Roadmaster fuel pump basically is the same procedure ?
Yes. If you can wait a little while, I have one of those pumps in the shop that I can do a video on. Otherwise this one is basically the same.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 yes sure I can wait , I'm ordering the kit , thank you again that would be nice
What are center punches your using called? Thanks
I'm not quite sure what you mean. A center punch has a point on it. Some people refer to it as a prick punch.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 the round punches you used to initially get each valve in.
Ok, I understand now. Those are tools that I made. The large one can be made using a 12 point socket I think is 3/4”. The smaller one can be made using a 12point 9/16 socket.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 oh damn that's really smart didn't even think of that, thank you!
Would this also apply to my 1941 Buick double action pump? I'd expect some differences but perhaps many similarities!
In theory, yes, but they are two completely different body styles. I can do up a video on the one for your 41 if it will help, it's just going to take me a few days to do it and upload it.
Also would need to know what series Buick you have.
Then And Now Automotive, my car is a 1941 Series A Special Business Coupe in superb condition. Just before our borders closed in March here in Australia (due to COVID) I did an 11-day/1,300 mile driving vacation and she didn’t miss a beat. However the bottom of my vac/fuel pump is very wet and it leaks oil onto the floor of my garage. Nothing too serious but I’d like to rectify the problem. Glenn at Old Buick Parts says if my pump hasn’t been changed then “519,529,530 or 843 will be on the fuel pump body somewhere”. I’ll need to check.
Then And Now Automotive, I only just saw this earlier message from you sorry. You’re very prompt thanks. A video would be fabulous thanks! My wife and I are going away in the car on the weekend - a 250 mile round trip (2 nights away).
I wanted to ask why you have two diaphragms? one is for fuel, but the second I do not understand what it is for?
The second diaphragm assembly is to supply vacuum assist for the windshield wipers. It is sometimes used to provide vacuum to operate the heater doors on some cars.
@@thenandnowautomotive547 Thanks for the information and how it improves the windshield wiper to the old engine intake systems.?
Ihad a couple questions i will call today but i thought i would ask a couple of them,the top rubber seal under the cup on the top on mine, has two about 1/4 inch holes looks to me they were supposed to be there, i first noticed mine failing because i seen fuel coming out of the two weep holes on the casting on the body under the fuel diaphragm is that a common place to fail, and is the fuel always supposed to stay above the fuel diahragm, also the vacuum lines were looped when i got the truck, is that ok, there was engine oil in the vacuum side , and last i can see the seals were peened down like you do do i just pry the old ones out with a screw driver and before putting the new ones in clean the holes up then put seals in and re peen them down, , oh by the way my pump still lets the truck run but i would say it time for a rebuild? thanks much Mike
I see those pulsator diaphragms with those holes in them all the time. It was there to keep the fuel from producing a thumping noise which sometimes happened. It has since been deemed unnecessary. Any fuel coming from the vent holes is an indication that the diaphragm is failing. Looping the vacuum ports is a no no. It doesn't allow the air flow that it produces to go anywhere and the end result is the vacuum diaphragm stops and the link inside that actuates it ends up snapping. You are correct in the process for the oil seal. It needs to be staked in to keep it from lifting and letting oil go into that area and make a mess. Usually if the seal on the fuel side fails, the oil ends up in the vacuum side of the pump and gets pumped out thru the vent at the back of the pump.
Ok so even if I don’t hook the wipers back up which I plan on doing it is better to leave the air lines open just filter so dirt doesn’t get in ? Thanks so much
@@DesertRatFabrication Yes. If I get a pump in where the customer isn't going to use the vacuum half of the pump, I take the vacuum diaphragm and cut off the pull rod down to about a 1/2" and install it upside down. That is the only time those ports can be actually blocked off. Otherwise do it like you said by putting a filter in the suction side.
Is it possible to call me I will only take a minute of your time maybe two 206 639 7962
Just one more question is the fuel supposed to always stay above the diaphragm, because as I mentioned before fuel was coming out of the weep holes on the body, but when I took the pump apart I didn’t see a hole or anything in the diaphragm, thanks again Mike