“I just used some all-thread 8-16, but it should be alright. It’s not risking my life, driving this”… what the fuck, even, if this video? 1. Support engine first… 2. Replace mounts and bolts with grade 5 or above. 3. Don’t listen to this, do it correctly.
Great video! Very good tips. I just did this today. After getting all bolts off, the mount is designed to move down first, then you can maneuver it back up and out the top. The center bolt bracket has some welds in an upside down U-shape (the opening is on the bottom) so you have to get the center bolt holes on the east-west sides to fall down out of the opening in the U and then you can work it back out the top. You can also try to bend the bracket, but this it steel and it doesn't bend much.I had to tap it down with a hammer and a long bar to get it to go low enough to get out of the U. Pulling it through the bottom is really tough - the top was easier for that step.
this one appears to be the easiest,but it really is a pain in the ass doing it in drive way...i had to also take out the 4 bracket bolt to get the old one out ... the top passenger side was about an hour this took me way longer and again a real ball buster..
My engine would not move enough with the jack to allow the mount to clear for removal. I had to remove mounting bracket , by removing the 4,x14mm bolts holding the mounting bracket on the engine. That made the mount come out very easy from the top.
You don't need a pry bar if you raise the engine a little. The mount will slide out under the U shaped lip that is welded on the inside of the bracket.
Thank you for this. I was just about to ask this question. It's the transmission that's being raised though, right? If you raise the engine, it pushes your workspace down.
Can you do a video on to replace the driver side engine mount. One of the Bolt holding the engine mount is very hard to get to. I would love to see how you get it out.
I had to come from underneath on that 14 that's facing down (the one right up next to the engine itself). Just put extensions on a breaker bar w/ the tire off and break it from the bottom, then do the rest w/ a ratchet.
I'm late, but it's actually not a hard fix. You'll just need a show 17 to get to the center bolt because it runs up against the transmission, and if you're jacking the car up, you have to get it pretty high because the breaker bar might not clear; it literally hit the ground when I initially finally got the socket on there.
+BomberXXII We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+Hayder Alhimdani The front engine mount for your 2012 Altima is not available at this time. If you wish to cancel an order please call us at 888-844-3393. 1aauto.com
Thanks for checking us out! Yes, symptoms such as impact noises, excessive vibrations, and engine movement are signs of a worn engine mount. +STEEVE DAVID Nicolas
@@christian709 No, you will not be able to reach all the bolts. You can remove the top bolt from the top. Of course, I never tried removing the radiator, etc. As it would be creating more work and time, so I guess, never say never. LOL
+Roman Rebisz We're always cycling through cars filming hundreds of common repairs for common vehicles every month. We'll add this to our list of repairs to film. Check back again and hopefully we'll have it soon.
+David Covelski Thank you for watching. Unfortunately, we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. www.1AAuto.com?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment& 866-403-3393
√ *Watch the Video*
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“Ka-tunk”… maybe support the engine/trans first… what the fuck?
“I just used some all-thread 8-16, but it should be alright. It’s not risking my life, driving this”… what the fuck, even, if this video?
1. Support engine first…
2. Replace mounts and bolts with grade 5 or above.
3. Don’t listen to this, do it correctly.
I love how yall have so many videos on this exact car because its exactly what I have lol
+Gew Op Glad we can help!
Nissan has this issue alot with wearing engine mounts
Great video! Very good tips. I just did this today. After getting all bolts off, the mount is designed to move down first, then you can maneuver it back up and out the top. The center bolt bracket has some welds in an upside down U-shape (the opening is on the bottom) so you have to get the center bolt holes on the east-west sides to fall down out of the opening in the U and then you can work it back out the top. You can also try to bend the bracket, but this it steel and it doesn't bend much.I had to tap it down with a hammer and a long bar to get it to go low enough to get out of the U. Pulling it through the bottom is really tough - the top was easier for that step.
ONCE MORE I THANK YOU FOR THE EASY AND PROFESSIONAL WAY OF PRESETING YOUR EFFICIENT VIDEOS. I LOOK FORWARD FOR FUTURE VIDEOS NEEDED
+Armando Castro Thank you for your feedback!
this one appears to be the easiest,but it really is a pain in the ass doing it in drive way...i had to also take out the 4 bracket bolt to get the old one out ... the top passenger side was about an hour this took me way longer and again a real ball buster..
What do you recommend to those of us who don't have a torque wrench? we squeeze as far as it will go
What I used to do before I got my torque wrench was I twisted the bolt as much as I could if it needed a high tourqe and added locktite
My engine would not move enough with the jack to allow the mount to clear for removal. I had to remove mounting bracket , by removing the 4,x14mm bolts holding the mounting bracket on the engine. That made the mount come out very easy from the top.
I am impressed that you could remove the mounting bracket bolts, as the motor mount looks like it's blocking the removal.
You don't need a pry bar if you raise the engine a little. The mount will slide out under the U shaped lip that is welded on the inside of the bracket.
Thank you for this. I was just about to ask this question. It's the transmission that's being raised though, right? If you raise the engine, it pushes your workspace down.
Can you do a video on to replace the driver side engine mount. One of the Bolt holding the engine mount is very hard to get to. I would love to see how you get it out.
gotta get the wheel off and take the splash pannel off and get to that bolt from under there might take a wobble ratchet
I had to come from underneath on that 14 that's facing down (the one right up next to the engine itself). Just put extensions on a breaker bar w/ the tire off and break it from the bottom, then do the rest w/ a ratchet.
Quick question, what's the black piece behind the exhaust in the middle of the crank? Bought an auction car and it's missing...
question, what about the rear motor mount, do you have some link for that one?
I'm late, but it's actually not a hard fix. You'll just need a show 17 to get to the center bolt because it runs up against the transmission, and if you're jacking the car up, you have to get it pretty high because the breaker bar might not clear; it literally hit the ground when I initially finally got the socket on there.
Thanks a lot for your great video. I will replace my bronken engine mount without any problem.
What if my mount came without a sensor in it are a way to put the sensor in it and the tiny screws are not going to turn
Looking rear motor mount for nissan murano 05, need to know is this video same process to replace or not? Thanks
so is this the 2.5 liter motor with auto trans??? thanks
is the jack to hold up the engine a necessary tool to use? or will the other brackets hold up until the new one is in?
+Life With Travis It is a necessary tool to use in this case.
ABSOLUTELY, the engine could drop and crush a man -- I disapprove that the mechanic did not stop work immediately and adjust the jack when jostled.
An air ratchet really helps getting the bolts out, cant get a 1/2" impact in the space, a 3/8" impact might fit tho
I need a step by step for the back motor mount on a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5L.
i have a 01 maxima and my front engine mount is bad..does it matter if i use the electric mount or the non electric mount?
Hello, you will want to replace it with the type that came stock! +dj storm
can put none electric one on there but will idle hard at stop lights better to replace with electric one its only like 12 bucks more @@1AAuto
If my current motor mount is loose can cause engine to rumble and turn off ?
+BomberXXII We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Can this cause my engine to shake when ac is on at idle
Please is the front mount engine available also for model 2012 nissan altima or cancel ????
+Hayder Alhimdani The front engine mount for your 2012 Altima is not available at this time. If you wish to cancel an order please call us at 888-844-3393. 1aauto.com
Do you need to dismantle sides and rear engine mounting to lift the engine?
No
My engine isn't moving up & down that much, makes it harder to get the mount back in, the old one came out pretty easy because it was worn out :(
How do i know which motor mount i need to replace
You will hear clunking, but check under the hood to see if your engine vibrates a lot when running.
Would you get a vibration driving down the road
Thanks for checking us out! Yes, symptoms such as impact noises, excessive vibrations, and engine movement are signs of a worn engine mount. +STEEVE DAVID Nicolas
Is there any way you can do it from the top?
@@christian709 No, you will not be able to reach all the bolts. You can remove the top bolt from the top. Of course, I never tried removing the radiator, etc. As it would be creating more work and time, so I guess, never say never. LOL
Do you have a video for a 2007 Quest front engine mount please I need help
+Roman Rebisz We're always cycling through cars filming hundreds of common repairs for common vehicles every month. We'll add this to our list of repairs to film. Check back again and hopefully we'll have it soon.
Thank you
Can I have your old motor mount?
I don't know how he got it to get it out from the bottom I had to go from the top
Bryan Olson he twisted it 90 degrees after he pulled it upwards.
I have a question 1a auto!
+megadethGUY M What is your question? 1aauto.com
Is this the 2.5L or 3.5L ?
+Rick Pennington This will be on a 2.5L
whatvdo you mean 64 foot pounds when Tightening the bolts
64 Ft/lbs using a torque wrench.....
How about lifters on a dodge 07 hemi engine
+David Covelski Thank you for watching. Unfortunately, we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. www.1AAuto.com?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment& 866-403-3393
David Covelski
Sell it and avoid Chrysler products at all cost
How does the motor mount go in tho. Thats the part of the video that doesnt make sense
1:35 😵😅