Dont know if you caught it already but at 13:15 you put the "little tab" to the wrong side, your automatic adjuster wont work now. May also cause inoperable handbrake
You're are right! I shall fix my mistake. Ever since I first replaced these brakes 7 years ago I have always had these adjusters the way I put them in the video and everything worked as it should and it even self adjusted, which is why i never gave it a second thought. But I did some research and you're right about the tab facing towards the backing plate. Thank you for the insight!
@@AutoFixYT 😁 Good to know that its not so cirical, might still affect the operation of the parking brake due to the parking brake lever pushing the end part in a smaller area now.
@@AutoFixYT You might also be mising the handbrake lever adjustment shim, service manual says: 5. MEASURE CLEARANCE BETWEEN BRAKE SHOE AND LEVER Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance. Standard clearance: less than 0.35 mm (0.0138 in.) If the clearance is not within specification, replace the shim with one of the correct size. I have had problems of the adjuster adjusting the brakes too tight, it was caused by the parking brake lever having the wrong shim
Parking brake works wonderfully and also self adjusts as needed as the shoes wear down. Not sure what shim you're talking about, maybe it's that spring washer that sits on the pin that locks the parking brake lever onto the shoe, but other than that I've never seen any sort of shim. Either way I'll keep an eye out next time I take the drum off. For now the brakes work great and they adjust as they should lol
How was it? I am about to do mine as soon as I can buy the parts. I am also going to buy the Harbor Freight 3 piece tool set for drum brakes. DId you use special tools?
@@lydiaahubbell8545 it went pretty easy, I'd definetly recommend taking a picture of the brakes once the drum is off, it makes it way easier to put back together. I belive I used some kind of special spring tool but otherwise was able to do it with pretty standard auto tools
Great video Auto!..learnt quite alot especially concerning the adjustment's..love it..keep it up! PS: Lovely how well you're keeping this wagon in immaculate condition
Beyond helpful, Have a 95 Corolla myself with shot back brakes, bought the brakes and hardware, just wasn't really sure if I wanted to attempt it myself. Definitely will be doing it myself now haha
How did it go? I am psyching myself up to do my rear brakes--never done this before and I am intimidated. I am definitely going to buy the special tools Harbor Freight sells for drum brakes--the springs intimidate me. My car is a 1997 Corolla and I just replaced a brake hose yesterday, recently replaced front brake pads and rotors, and just last month replaced my master cylinder--first time doing that, and it was not too bad!
@@lydiaahubbell8545 Sorry for such a late reply, It actually went extremely well, the previous shop that had done them (when owned by original owner) had done a wonderful job greasing everything (mind you I bought the car 5 years ago and they just went recently) so when it came to the adjuster it was completely free spinning, no rust or corrosion, which is impressive as I live in the Maritimes of Canada lol, I wire wheeled, brake greased, and brake cleaned all the places detailed in the video above. When it came to tools, I legit only needed a jack and stands, the impact for the tires, a pair of plyers for the springs, a hammer to tap the drums initially, and a flat head to pry apart the clips holding the pad and ebrake section on. All and all being my first time it took about 2-3 hours or so, but was extremely easy, honestly felt like playing with lego. I can promise you if you havent changed them yet it will be absolutely no issue unless you actually have Patrick Star IQ hahaha. Best of luck! :)
Hey man! That’s exactly what I did on my 95 about a month ago! Except for putting grease on the hub. I greased where the shoes slide. The tricky part for me was the adjustment. After the 3rd time I finally got it right. I learned that it has to be a little tighter. I just thought that the force of moving the car can pull the rest. It was my second time doing drums. I also pulled the rear hub off to make it more comfortable. Good job bro!
My rear passenger wheel is seized up when I drive forward but rolls backward fine. Just wondering what to look for when I take off the drum and how I can maybe free it at least enough to drive it to the shop a couple miles away.
Sounds like one of your springs or retainers might be broken or damaged. Unfortunately if that's the case you're going to have to either replace them yourself or get it towed.
hey dude i have a 95 corolla whose fuel strap fell off, the area where it connects to the frame has rotted out. Have you had to install fuel straps that did not go into the original position?
Haha it's funny that you say this because the same thing happened to me several years ago. Are you on Instagram? I can send you pictures of what I had to do to fix it. I was replacing my rotted fuel tank and I had to rebuild the body in that area so I can put on new fuel tank straps. There's no way around it. Message me on IG @autofix.cris and I'll show you what I did
Hello, there. i noticed you didn't say or did bleed the brakes after uou opened the line? is is a lil different process with drum brakes? 1996 Toyota DX 1.8L 🙋🏽♂️
I never opened the brake line or even the bleeder screw in this process so no need to bleed the brakes. If you did for some reason open the line, you do need to bleed the brakes.
Nice! I'm glad the video came in handy! If you can get the drum off don't be afraid to use some serious force. Sometimes it's the only way. Pry bars and big hammers will be your best friends. Don't bend the backing plate of course because that'd essential, but you can beat on the rest. While you're there, four 14mm bolts hold the wheels bearings on. Couldn't hurt to inspect them and maybe even pack some new grease in there so you don't have to worry about them going bad anytime soon.
Know that I experienced hands on its totally different than just watching the video but thanks you for guiding me and I agree by putting back the break cable it’s the hardest part of the job 😮💨 but not bad for my first time…. Doing the rear breaks 🤗✨
I don't have an automatic so I don't have that and can't show it, but if it's due to the NSS then just replace it. Not worth trying to fix the old one.
I just did my rear drums on my 93 Corolla wagon but now my brakes aren't working the pedal goes to the floor. Should I adjust them more or do you think it's something else. Thanks
If they are not adjusted properly then that would do it. I show how to adjust them in the video. The shoes need to be touching the drum at all times. Not putting pressure on it, but just barely touching it. If they don't, and especially if they're far, then yeah you will have no brakes and the pedal will go to the floor
I tried to take off the drum it wont come off.... I did the 2 bolt thing so the drum can come off and it wont come off... I think i might have to adjust and retract shoes from back plate... How you go on to do that?
If the drum does not move at all, not even a tiny bit, then it's seized on the hub surface. For that, you can beat it with a hammer. If it's moving a little but you can feel that it's the shoes holding it back, then yeah it's the shoes that need to be retracted. So pop off the rubber cap on the back side and spin that adjuster one way or another until you release the drum.
Find a Celica of the same generation/year range and take the rear brakes off of that. You'll need the knuckles, hubs, bearings, ebrake shoes, backing plate, rotors, calipers, pads, brake Hoses, and maybe even the master cylinder and proportioning valve.
If you adjust it correctly it should engage sooner. But it's still going to sit in the same position as always. Freeplay in the pedal can be from its hinge being worn. Freeway as in pedal travel with no brake application comes from shoes not being adjusted. Could be other things too but this is the main reason usually.
@@AutoFixYT I ended up finding that when I was having issues with leaking brake hoses on the new calipers and replaced them that air once again got into the brake lines after having bled them. I bled them a second time after installing the new hoses and it seems ok now. Thank you
Hey, hope you can help. I have a 1997 toyota corolla. I just followed your video and did both rear brake drums and cylinders. All parts I'm using are new. The issue I have Is after putting everything back together I bled the brakes, and I was about to test them out but when I started pumping the brake the pasanger side drum started leaking. I checked it out and the boot seal on one end of the cylinder popped off and was leaking. I put it back on and tried again then both left and right brake cylinders boots started leaking. Did I do something wrong? Any suggestions?
Did you adjust them manually prior to pumping the brakes? The cyli ders only come apart if they get overextended and they have very very limited travel. Much less than a regular caliper piston. So that's why it's important to get the shoes manually adjusted priror to using the brakes. If you did follow my adjustment procedure and it still did it then make sure the shoes are seated correctly on the cylinder, and if you are 100% sure that it's all correct, you might just need new wheel cylinders.
@@AutoFixYT thank you very much for the quick reply. I did adjust them manually but I must have left too much play. I will get new wheel cylinders and try again. First time doing drum breaks so I knew something would go wrong.
@@RAZERcooldude Haha no matter how many times you do drum brakes it's always a pain. Gets easier but still hard lol As for the wheel cylinders... Sometimes you can get away with just putting them back together, just make sure they are put back exactly how they're supposed to be otherwise you have no brakes. But if you want new ones just go for it, couldn't hurt.
Well, took everything apart, replaced the new wheel cylinders with another set of new wheel cylinders. Got everything done, set the brakes to the point that the ebrake holds the drum from moving. Got brakes bled, and the brake pedal seemed like it was good. Went to pull it out of my garage and suddenly I have no brakes again. The boot came off the wheel cylinder again. The piston isn't over extending because the metal pieces that hold the brake shoes are held in place, but the boots are just popping off and leaking somehow. Going to bring it into a shop and I'll update with what they find.
@@AutoFixYT does that include jacking up the car and bleeding the brakes and getting your tires back on? it took me 1 1/2 hours to jack up my car securely and take all 4 wheels off. I also need to replace 3 wheel studs. Do you know why the haynes manual has the pictures with the wheel hub removed? Is that just to see better? The directions did not say to take it off, or how. I took the first 2 springs off one side snd ran out of daylight. Fortunately, a few weeks ago I had my brakes checked and so I had zero trouble getting the drum off. I hope the rest of this job goes fast. in the morning.
I've done it that way too. Just know that sometimes the hubs are seized in there and you can risk damaging them if you hammer them out. Then you have to buy yourself a new hub too
F in chat for me they watched the video while sitting out on my icy parking lot and didnt look at the comments until like a hour after I thought I was done😂 ordered new hardware to be safe next week when I take the brakes apart again since I reused the old hardware this time
You should have the spring sitting on a cap against the brake shoe that keep it in place and not on the the backing plate [/\/\]----+. Plus you have two rear brake shoes and not a front and back
@hedlund88 Oh I see what you mean. Many vehicles actually do not have a spring cap on the shoe side, only on the end to look spring on the pin. As for the shoes, maybe other brands design them differently, but my shoes were put on right. Sometimes that's just how they're designed by the manufacturer. Doesn't mean they won't work just as well.
Merhaba , sanırım balatalar ters takıldı , tekerleğin ileri dönüş yönünde arabanın önüne doğru olan balatanın üstünün boş olması lazım ,aynı şekilde arabanın arkasına doğru olan balatanında altının boş olması lazım . Bu sayede geri geri giderken fren yaptığınızda balataların kapma yapması engellenmiş olur. Üreteci bunu bilerek bu şekilde imal etmiştir . Saygılarımla kolay gelsin.
Make sure your adjuster is completely compressed, no threads should be showing. If that still doesn't do it, then just wiggle the shoes around because likely the shoes aren't centered. The drums are somewhat of a tight fit when it's all new, so the shoes need to be perfectly lined up.
@@AutoFixYT guess what !! the difference between the “long side” and the “short side” was so minimal in my case, I put the two “short sides” on my driver’s side and the two “long sides” on the other. I had seen a big difference in some shoes on other videos.
I would highly suggest editing this video to cover the two mistakes you made or just remove the video altogether. I followed your vid and had to do the job all over again.
At around 11:49 when you attach the shoe back to the backing plate with the springs and caps, both of those caps go on either side of the spring not one on the outside. It should all be interior and the pin that goes through from the back doesn't need to be reinforced with one of the caps like you did. It's fine on it's own. The other thing I noticed is at around 14:18 you mention the star adjuster spring is suppose to rest against that little tab on the star adjuster itself. According to the Haynes for my 1996 Corolla DX that tab is actually suppose to be turned inward and there's a little slot on the adjuster arm for it to fit into.
@JshMusician For the spring cap part, if you didn't get the joke when I said "ignore the extra hole", I set it up like that because my backing plate is rotted and will not hold the head of the pin anymore. So I needed either that spring cap or a washer to have more surface area. Being a rust belt car with almost 360k miles, I'm surprised the backing plate is still there haha As for the adjuster spring, i have had several comments like that but I have never set it up any different and I have never seen it set up differently, and the self adjuster has always worked perfectly fine for me. So if you wanna follow the Haynes manual, go for it. This video, just like the manual, is just a guide. Follow it if you want, take only whatever pieces of information you want, and do what you will with it.
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Dont know if you caught it already but at 13:15 you put the "little tab" to the wrong side, your automatic adjuster wont work now. May also cause inoperable handbrake
You're are right! I shall fix my mistake. Ever since I first replaced these brakes 7 years ago I have always had these adjusters the way I put them in the video and everything worked as it should and it even self adjusted, which is why i never gave it a second thought. But I did some research and you're right about the tab facing towards the backing plate. Thank you for the insight!
@@AutoFixYT 😁 Good to know that its not so cirical, might still affect the operation of the parking brake due to the parking brake lever pushing the end part in a smaller area now.
@@AutoFixYT You might also be mising the handbrake lever adjustment shim, service manual says:
5. MEASURE CLEARANCE BETWEEN BRAKE SHOE AND LEVER
Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance.
Standard clearance: less than 0.35 mm (0.0138 in.)
If the clearance is not within specification, replace the
shim with one of the correct size.
I have had problems of the adjuster adjusting the brakes too tight, it was caused by the parking brake lever having the wrong shim
Parking brake works wonderfully and also self adjusts as needed as the shoes wear down. Not sure what shim you're talking about, maybe it's that spring washer that sits on the pin that locks the parking brake lever onto the shoe, but other than that I've never seen any sort of shim.
Either way I'll keep an eye out next time I take the drum off. For now the brakes work great and they adjust as they should lol
thank goodness for viewers! I learn as much from comments as I do from videos
love this guy. he has helped with my Corolla so much. he is definitely chris fix for me and my corolla. thank you for doing all these videos man.
Thank you!! I will try to keep them coming haha
Going to do this on my '97 corolla in class on monday, thanks for your help and the helpful video!
Awesome! Glad the video helped out!
How was it? I am about to do mine as soon as I can buy the parts. I am also going to buy the Harbor Freight 3 piece tool set for drum brakes. DId you use special tools?
@@lydiaahubbell8545 it went pretty easy, I'd definetly recommend taking a picture of the brakes once the drum is off, it makes it way easier to put back together. I belive I used some kind of special spring tool but otherwise was able to do it with pretty standard auto tools
@@Mr2vicky how long did it take?
@@lydiahubbell6278 first side probably took like 2 hours, and second side was like a half hour. Plus some cleaning it's a 3-4 hour job
Thank you i love you i really appreciate you for explaining with a very good detail helps me a lot..... Hugs from Coachella Valley Ca....
Thanks!
Great video Auto!..learnt quite alot especially concerning the adjustment's..love it..keep it up!
PS: Lovely how well you're keeping this wagon in immaculate condition
Beyond helpful, Have a 95 Corolla myself with shot back brakes, bought the brakes and hardware, just wasn't really sure if I wanted to attempt it myself. Definitely will be doing it myself now haha
Awesome! Yeah it's not that bad, just take your time and either take pictires or take one side apart at a time
How did it go? I am psyching myself up to do my rear brakes--never done this before and I am intimidated. I am definitely going to buy the special tools Harbor Freight sells for drum brakes--the springs intimidate me. My car is a 1997 Corolla and I just replaced a brake hose yesterday, recently replaced front brake pads and rotors, and just last month replaced my master cylinder--first time doing that, and it was not too bad!
@@lydiaahubbell8545 Sorry for such a late reply, It actually went extremely well, the previous shop that had done them (when owned by original owner) had done a wonderful job greasing everything (mind you I bought the car 5 years ago and they just went recently) so when it came to the adjuster it was completely free spinning, no rust or corrosion, which is impressive as I live in the Maritimes of Canada lol, I wire wheeled, brake greased, and brake cleaned all the places detailed in the video above. When it came to tools, I legit only needed a jack and stands, the impact for the tires, a pair of plyers for the springs, a hammer to tap the drums initially, and a flat head to pry apart the clips holding the pad and ebrake section on. All and all being my first time it took about 2-3 hours or so, but was extremely easy, honestly felt like playing with lego. I can promise you if you havent changed them yet it will be absolutely no issue unless you actually have Patrick Star IQ hahaha. Best of luck! :)
I definitely needed this vid .. thank you for posting good content that helps myself & others 🤌🏼
Thank you! I'm glad it helped!
Hey man! That’s exactly what I did on my 95 about a month ago! Except for putting grease on the hub. I greased where the shoes slide. The tricky part for me was the adjustment. After the 3rd time I finally got it right. I learned that it has to be a little tighter. I just thought that the force of moving the car can pull the rest. It was my second time doing drums. I also pulled the rear hub off to make it more comfortable. Good job bro!
Nice! Sounds like you've successfully done the job which is great! And yes removing the hub can definitely make things easier, I've done that before.
how long did it take?
@@lydiahubbell6278 tbh i wasn’t timing myself but felt like 20 minutes
Great! Always bringing very important information about this vehicle! Top!
Thank you!
Right on time I was just thinking about how to do this
My rear passenger wheel is seized up when I drive forward but rolls backward fine. Just wondering what to look for when I take off the drum and how I can maybe free it at least enough to drive it to the shop a couple miles away.
Sounds like one of your springs or retainers might be broken or damaged. Unfortunately if that's the case you're going to have to either replace them yourself or get it towed.
hey dude i have a 95 corolla whose fuel strap fell off, the area where it connects to the frame has rotted out. Have you had to install fuel straps that did not go into the original position?
Haha it's funny that you say this because the same thing happened to me several years ago. Are you on Instagram? I can send you pictures of what I had to do to fix it. I was replacing my rotted fuel tank and I had to rebuild the body in that area so I can put on new fuel tank straps. There's no way around it. Message me on IG @autofix.cris and I'll show you what I did
Hello, there. i noticed you didn't say or did bleed the brakes after uou opened the line? is is a lil different process with drum brakes?
1996 Toyota DX 1.8L 🙋🏽♂️
I never opened the brake line or even the bleeder screw in this process so no need to bleed the brakes. If you did for some reason open the line, you do need to bleed the brakes.
Just picked up a 94dx 5spd for 500 bucks rear brakes are locked up hopefully with this video it’s an easy fix!
Nice! I'm glad the video came in handy! If you can get the drum off don't be afraid to use some serious force. Sometimes it's the only way. Pry bars and big hammers will be your best friends. Don't bend the backing plate of course because that'd essential, but you can beat on the rest. While you're there, four 14mm bolts hold the wheels bearings on. Couldn't hurt to inspect them and maybe even pack some new grease in there so you don't have to worry about them going bad anytime soon.
Know that I experienced hands on its totally different than just watching the video but thanks you for guiding me and I agree by putting back the break cable it’s the hardest part of the job 😮💨 but not bad for my first time…. Doing the rear breaks 🤗✨
Hey at least you got it done! I'm glad the video helped
Can you show us how to service neutral safety switch on ae101 cus my reverse light not working and others say we can service it
I don't have an automatic so I don't have that and can't show it, but if it's due to the NSS then just replace it. Not worth trying to fix the old one.
I just did my rear drums on my 93 Corolla wagon but now my brakes aren't working the pedal goes to the floor. Should I adjust them more or do you think it's something else. Thanks
If they are not adjusted properly then that would do it. I show how to adjust them in the video. The shoes need to be touching the drum at all times. Not putting pressure on it, but just barely touching it. If they don't, and especially if they're far, then yeah you will have no brakes and the pedal will go to the floor
I tried to take off the drum it wont come off.... I did the 2 bolt thing so the drum can come off and it wont come off... I think i might have to adjust and retract shoes from back plate... How you go on to do that?
If the drum does not move at all, not even a tiny bit, then it's seized on the hub surface. For that, you can beat it with a hammer. If it's moving a little but you can feel that it's the shoes holding it back, then yeah it's the shoes that need to be retracted. So pop off the rubber cap on the back side and spin that adjuster one way or another until you release the drum.
@@AutoFixYT appreciate you're response. Thank you for posting these videos I got a 1996 Toyota Corolla DX and I've learn quite a bit from you 👍🏼👍🏼
I have a 93 corolla and I want to convert the brakes from drum to disc, where can I get the kit? thanks
Find a Celica of the same generation/year range and take the rear brakes off of that. You'll need the knuckles, hubs, bearings, ebrake shoes, backing plate, rotors, calipers, pads, brake Hoses, and maybe even the master cylinder and proportioning valve.
why would you want to do this?
When you do this , does the brake pedal stay up higher with less free play?
If you adjust it correctly it should engage sooner. But it's still going to sit in the same position as always. Freeplay in the pedal can be from its hinge being worn. Freeway as in pedal travel with no brake application comes from shoes not being adjusted. Could be other things too but this is the main reason usually.
@@AutoFixYT I ended up finding that when I was having issues with leaking brake hoses on the new calipers and replaced them that air once again got into the brake lines after having bled them. I bled them a second time after installing the new hoses and it seems ok now. Thank you
Yeah air in the system will completely mess up the braking feel and especially the performance. Glad you got it figured out!
Thanks for the vid!
Got some major Chris Fix vibes. Then I noticed the Chris Fix sticker on the rear bumper 😂
Hahahaha good eye! I'm a big fan of his.
Very helpful tips👍
Thanks! Glad it helped!
Hey, hope you can help. I have a 1997 toyota corolla. I just followed your video and did both rear brake drums and cylinders. All parts I'm using are new. The issue I have Is after putting everything back together I bled the brakes, and I was about to test them out but when I started pumping the brake the pasanger side drum started leaking. I checked it out and the boot seal on one end of the cylinder popped off and was leaking. I put it back on and tried again then both left and right brake cylinders boots started leaking. Did I do something wrong? Any suggestions?
Did you adjust them manually prior to pumping the brakes? The cyli ders only come apart if they get overextended and they have very very limited travel. Much less than a regular caliper piston. So that's why it's important to get the shoes manually adjusted priror to using the brakes.
If you did follow my adjustment procedure and it still did it then make sure the shoes are seated correctly on the cylinder, and if you are 100% sure that it's all correct, you might just need new wheel cylinders.
@@AutoFixYT thank you very much for the quick reply.
I did adjust them manually but I must have left too much play. I will get new wheel cylinders and try again.
First time doing drum breaks so I knew something would go wrong.
@@RAZERcooldude Haha no matter how many times you do drum brakes it's always a pain. Gets easier but still hard lol
As for the wheel cylinders... Sometimes you can get away with just putting them back together, just make sure they are put back exactly how they're supposed to be otherwise you have no brakes. But if you want new ones just go for it, couldn't hurt.
Well, took everything apart, replaced the new wheel cylinders with another set of new wheel cylinders.
Got everything done, set the brakes to the point that the ebrake holds the drum from moving. Got brakes bled, and the brake pedal seemed like it was good.
Went to pull it out of my garage and suddenly I have no brakes again.
The boot came off the wheel cylinder again. The piston isn't over extending because the metal pieces that hold the brake shoes are held in place, but the boots are just popping off and leaking somehow.
Going to bring it into a shop and I'll update with what they find.
@@RAZERcooldude That is very strange, yeah please keep me updated, I'm curious to see what is causing that.
I did the repair on my driver's side and now my brake lights won't go off.Anybody know any suggestions?
This shouldn't have anything to do with your brake lights. Brake lights are operated by a brake light switch connected to your brake pedal.
I pushed the like button, then I relalized that I had already pushed it so I pushed it again, so lets say that this count for double like. 🎉
Hahaha that's awesome, thank you!
how long did it take? Iwill multiply by 5 for my estimate
Without filming it probably takes me about an hour to an hour and a half to do both sides.
@@AutoFixYT does that include jacking up the car and bleeding the brakes and getting your tires back on? it took me 1 1/2 hours to jack up my car securely and take all 4 wheels off. I also need to replace 3 wheel studs. Do you know why the haynes manual has the pictures with the wheel hub removed? Is that just to see better? The directions did not say to take it off, or how. I took the first 2 springs off one side snd ran out of daylight. Fortunately, a few weeks ago I had my brakes checked and so I had zero trouble getting the drum off. I hope the rest of this job goes fast. in the morning.
i have spent 30 minutes trying to reattach parking brake.
i noticed u put the hold down spring retainer behind the dust plate
Yes, my backing shield is rotted and i needed extra support for the pins, otherwise they go through it.
peter Finn shows how to take off the wheel hub. I think I will take it off. i like things out of the way.
I've done it that way too. Just know that sometimes the hubs are seized in there and you can risk damaging them if you hammer them out. Then you have to buy yourself a new hub too
@@AutoFixYT i ended up not doing it.
F in chat for me they watched the video while sitting out on my icy parking lot and didnt look at the comments until like a hour after I thought I was done😂 ordered new hardware to be safe next week when I take the brakes apart again since I reused the old hardware this time
Lol you got this!
Just fixed it but at 11:53 that cap should be on the bottom of the spring and not behind like that :)
@@hedlund88 not really sure what you mean
You should have the spring sitting on a cap against the brake shoe that keep it in place and not on the the backing plate [/\/\]----+. Plus you have two rear brake shoes and not a front and back
@hedlund88 Oh I see what you mean. Many vehicles actually do not have a spring cap on the shoe side, only on the end to look spring on the pin.
As for the shoes, maybe other brands design them differently, but my shoes were put on right. Sometimes that's just how they're designed by the manufacturer. Doesn't mean they won't work just as well.
Well done brother
Thank you!
What size wheels and tires do you have?
I have 16x7 wheels with a 42 offset and 205/50R16 tires. Really good daily fitment in my opinion.
Merhaba , sanırım balatalar ters takıldı , tekerleğin ileri dönüş yönünde arabanın önüne doğru olan balatanın üstünün boş olması lazım ,aynı şekilde arabanın arkasına doğru olan balatanında altının boş olması lazım . Bu sayede geri geri giderken fren yaptığınızda balataların kapma yapması engellenmiş olur. Üreteci bunu bilerek bu şekilde imal etmiştir . Saygılarımla kolay gelsin.
My pedal is now mushy after replacing mines, i bled the system multiple times and still
I didn't touch brake lines or nothing
Did you adjust the shoes properly? Improperly adjusted shoes will make it so you have no brakes.
Que medida son tus rines
Just did it yesterday
Nice
SUBSCRIBED
Thank you!
can’t get new drum on
Make sure your adjuster is completely compressed, no threads should be showing. If that still doesn't do it, then just wiggle the shoes around because likely the shoes aren't centered. The drums are somewhat of a tight fit when it's all new, so the shoes need to be perfectly lined up.
@@AutoFixYT guess what !! the difference between the “long side” and the “short side” was so minimal in my case, I put the two “short sides” on my driver’s side and the two “long sides” on the other. I had seen a big difference in some shoes on other videos.
HEY !! THE SHOES ARE ON BACKWARDS...
I would highly suggest editing this video to cover the two mistakes you made or just remove the video altogether. I followed your vid and had to do the job all over again.
What were the mistakes?
At around 11:49 when you attach the shoe back to the backing plate with the springs and caps, both of those caps go on either side of the spring not one on the outside. It should all be interior and the pin that goes through from the back doesn't need to be reinforced with one of the caps like you did. It's fine on it's own. The other thing I noticed is at around 14:18 you mention the star adjuster spring is suppose to rest against that little tab on the star adjuster itself. According to the Haynes for my 1996 Corolla DX that tab is actually suppose to be turned inward and there's a little slot on the adjuster arm for it to fit into.
@JshMusician For the spring cap part, if you didn't get the joke when I said "ignore the extra hole", I set it up like that because my backing plate is rotted and will not hold the head of the pin anymore. So I needed either that spring cap or a washer to have more surface area. Being a rust belt car with almost 360k miles, I'm surprised the backing plate is still there haha
As for the adjuster spring, i have had several comments like that but I have never set it up any different and I have never seen it set up differently, and the self adjuster has always worked perfectly fine for me. So if you wanna follow the Haynes manual, go for it. This video, just like the manual, is just a guide. Follow it if you want, take only whatever pieces of information you want, and do what you will with it.
i noticed u put retaining spring hold down behind the dust cover
Yeah, my backing plate is rotted and the pin needed extra support