308 v8 holden rebuild- glen l - bonanza wooden boat, inboard v8
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2015
- step by step rebuild of my 308 holden, inboard boat engine. This is a marinised engine, installed into the Glen l Bonanza I built from scratch. The motor had not run for a while, and the bearing were very tight and 1 of the pistons was blown out. New bearing, rings and pistons, bore grind and new paint job. about $1200 all up, not including my time. This was a cheap rebuild, but the results have been great. see my other videos of the boat in action.
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This was a great watch. Thanks for uploading, it was quite therapeutic, and puts in perspective just how simple an OHV V8 is. I used to own two and both were quite intimidating to work on, but this has helped a lot for the future!
glad you liked it. they are complex, and yet simple. nuts and bolts and some other stuff is all!
Great video mate, thanks for making it
gettin me l's soon, hoping to get a 70's kingswood, and mabye building a motor, video really helped out!
i hope you checked ring gap in the bores before install, could of been why the piston failed last time.
Good video I’d like to do another one haven’t done one for awhile
many years ago and I’m talking 94ish I did a 308 Holden for a mates ski boat over afew weekends.......and the river water went in as coolant
believe it or not every single thread in the block was stuffed and every single head bolt needed HeliCoils installed.....
nightmare
But at the end of the day the job worked out okay
yep, same as mine, river water straight thru the back and exhaust manifolds. still running great after 4 years
legend mate this is perfect . been looking for a aussie v8 vid like this for a long time
welcome. I gotta reseat the heads and replace the bolts, will do that in the boat in the next couple of months, look out for the video.
+anthony herrett will do that cheers . im about to rebuild my 308 soon . very helpful vid
Great video, thanks mate!
thanks, did you check out running in ? th-cam.com/video/negsABypic0/w-d-xo.html and still going strong couple of months ago
th-cam.com/video/qDRe8ebPlP8/w-d-xo.html
Marinised? Marinated! Good simple engine with plenty of power for a runabout.
TIP: 20:03 ALWAYS fit some fuel hose or similar to your big end bolts when installing pistons and rods . Will help avoid marking crank etc (very easy to do!) 26:45 REMEMBER the 4 X shorter head bolts on the valley (cam) side are torqued to 2nd stage only (59FtLbs) DO NOT tighten these 4 to 75FtLbs or expect to blow out your block bolt bosses!! VERY IMPORTANT!
good tips, thanks Matt!
Candy paint looks fantastic!
Did you soak the rear main seal in oil before fitting it? Good vid mate!
You did a better job than the guy who built my 355! He used too much lube on the mains, filling the blind holes, the bolts wouldn't torque down on some of them. I found the bolts were stretched. He also used heaps of silicone and no oil pressure at start up because the oil pump was half blocked and no oil or grease inside it. Lucky I had these and other issues found and fixed before any damage was done. Well done on a good video! Just wondering if you should have used sealer on some of the internal had bolts that go into the water jacket?
+Ruppy House - I was very concious of overuse of silicone, i hear some nasty stories about it getting into the engine. I also primed the pump and filter, and turned the engine over to get some oil flowing before really starting it. I used oil not grease on all the moving faces, but I was putting it together same day, any longer and I might have worried more. I do have a slight leak in the head gasket somewhere, so my next job is a head gasket replacement, will use sealant on the bolts and new bolts this time. thanks for the comments.
I bet it locked up after start up any one know if it ran
I new there was something I forgot!!!
What sort of paint did you use. Is it an anodized red?
I painted all of the aluminium parts on the engine red. The paint I used was 'Dupli color, Metalcast, anodised'. I also used a metalcast primer on the aluminium to get a good bond and also an even base color. The anodise paint shows any discolorations in the aluminium so you need a good even base coat.
if you change the inlet manifold to a duel plane it would go better down low more suited to a boat could give you as much as 30 foot lbs more torque makes a huge difference unless it is a v drive and you rev it over 5500 rpm
thanks, will look into it.
im re assembling the bottom end on my 308 and having problems with the rear big end cap and rear main seal .. i put a new seal in and the crank was locked up . wouldnt spind , even with a breaker bar ! . all bearings and evering are new and standard . it spinds nicely with all the other bearing caps done to spec but soon as i tighten the rear one with rope seal it locks up . i kept on pounding the rearmain seal in place over and over and its getting better . takes about 30 -35 ft pound to crank over with breaker bar .. did you have the same problem ?
It could be the bearing shell , but if you big ends moves freely with the all other main caps on, then it is probably the rope seal. mine was a little tight, but I could still turn it over by hand. depends how hard you tapped the seal down when you put it in, and how much oil was on it. take the cap off and soak the whole lot in oil overnight so the rope seals soaks it in, then tap down the rope seal into the cap again. Also see if you can get some oil onto the rope seal in the block, let it really soak in.
+anthony herrett yeah . everything moves smoothly without the rear cap on . ( one with seal in it )
then when I put cap on and torque it down . it takes about 35 ft pounds to turn motor over . its still tight but with all new bearings and seals it should be pretty tight but not to tight .. also after removing the crank a few times I could see where it was biting into the seal slightly so its definitely the seal ... I did soak it in oil and used solid steel mandrel to press and whack it in place .. I dont want to whack it any more because it looks like im squashing it and damaging it .. ill leave it for now but im pretty sure its good . if it leaks ill just take it to an engine shop to do it ...
ok, I just checked my torque wrench, 35ftpds feels ok. as long as there is plenty of oil on it, and it is well seated, then it should loosen up a bit and seat in once the engine is runnning. shouldnt leak. i think it is ok, no probs with that.
+anthony herrett no worries . its dummy fitted up at the moment . will put some moly on the rope and extra lube all the bearings and torque all down . then move on .. cheers
sms me if you got a question while you fitting up. quicker. 0412 254 308
how long did this take you?
2 weekends. about 20 hours including taking it out of the boat and back in. not including the block rebore and the new pistons(fitting to conrods etc) which I had done by a locol guy.
No head dowels, no head stud sealer, no 7 rod in the number 8 hole, reusing lifters out of order, that's a no-no, rear main seal???
Did you cringe when he was dropping the main caps directly on to the crank... I surely did.......
Not here to rag on ya. I just thought the Holden was a direct copy of a Chevrolet. Couldn't be further from the truth.
Good try, but please leave engine builds to the experts. Quite a few mistakes, and definitely not a good instruction video. But well done for having a go.
Just too many mistakes to list, no other words to describe poor building practices.