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I cant believe you took the cam cover off and didnt check the valve clearances. Superdreams used to have very quiet engines. That sounds like a Triumph single.
For an engine you'd just run the cambox looked quite 'dry' when you popped it, two of the head bolts are oil pathways and will cause the head to run dry and tappy if they get blocked in any way, (bad gasket, sealant, copper washers being put on the wrong bolt). Also if you need to manually tighten the honda camchain adjuster you need to be certain it's on the slack part of the chain cycle. I've owned and rebuilt several of these Superdreams and Dreams and the only way the engines were ever that noisy in the valve train was if they needed remedial work. even a 70k mile one was infinitely quieter than this one. Glad you brought it back to life but please sort the engine out.
@@stevenlangdon-griffiths293 Bent valves will do the same and that rev counter is a million miles off and when he revved it out on the previous video the engine was at the point of valve bounce.
As others have said there is something very wrong with the top end on that and the first thing I'd check is the cam, they were well known for pitting the camshaft and I'm betting that's wiped a lobe out. Irrespective of the cause of the noise I'd drop the oil because I suspect that'll be showing a lot of sparkles by now. :(
No way you consider that "fixed". I like that you ask the audience if they THINK it sounds clanky or it has improved. What are you doing man... Still sounds like a box of Rusty nails. My bet is valve train.
Take the top off and check the valve clearances, then put the bike in 1st gear on the centre stand and get someone to pull up on the back wheel this will make the front run of the camchain tight then undo the adjuster and push it down Gently just enough to remove any slack from the back run of the chain. This has worked for me in the past. Also adjust balance shaft chain.
I had a couple of Superdreams when they first came out back in 1979 - I did my own servicing as I was at school and skint. Yours sounds not bad but a little bit 'tappetty' . One other area you could check would be the balance chain on the right hand side of the engine as these can get noisy. There is an chrome access hole in the engine case to adjust. In theory you just losen a nut on the adjuster inside the access hole and the spring which takes up the adjustment - in practice these tend to stick....so you need to 'flick' the adjuster with a screw driver to free it up and take up the slack. Good luck - I am enjoying the series.
Nice to see an old bike restoration and bought bake to life , great work and perseverance, never give up they can do your head in but it’s worth it in the end.
First thing to do is check the compressions. I would guess one or both is low, and you are going to need to strip the top end to get it sorted. The motor does sound terrible by the way, and I would guess camshaft wear is relatively likely?
Admire you having a crack at all this stuff, after tearing down my R6 i can only imagine how you do all this manage to film edit and put something out whilst still working a full time job. Got to give you credit you've come a long way since i started watching you. Hard work pays 👍 I need one of those lifts in my life but crickey the price of em :) Good luck with the future builds. Looking forward to the content.
A healthy Superdream makes a mild "burbling" sound with a touch of gear whine mixed in. The "burble" takes on a harder edge at high rpm with wide open throttle. Your bike doesn't sound quite right, especially at low rpm. You should definitely double check the valve clearances as well as the camchain tensioner, which could be stuck. I believe the SD also has a chain driven balancer shaft, although I don't think its tension can be adjusted.
I have heard Super Dreams being called many things over the years but I will admit that is the 1st time I have heard them referred to as a "little rocket" well done on bringing it back to life!
Hi If the inlet rubbers were leaking, air from outside would leak into the fuel stream and that would make the mixture leaner, not richer. -and ditto on the top-end clatter.
next you need to check the balance weight chain tension and valve clearances , bit to much rattle going on , i know the copy empty ballance box can make it sound a bit tinnie . great project bike , i have a Dream 250T and CM 250T , neither rattle , but it took a lot of research and repair to achieve this .
I didn't want to come across as a hater with my comment earlier.Youve don't a really nice job on the the bike.Just get the motor sorted and you will be surprised how much better it is capable of being.keep up the good work.
Well done sorting the bogging down, we all knew you'd get there in the end. At the risk of sounding like a stuck record, I can only repeat. The clackity noise is 100% cam related, the frequency is exactly that of a twin with out of range gaps or worn rocker lobes or worn cam ovality. You have to lift the cam rockers off and visually inspect, which then gives you visibility of the cam shaft ovality too. If you listen to "motorcycle fettler" ride his on You tube you will agree that yours is "not quite right". This problem also reduces power output as you can imagine. I'm not being a "hater" or "negative" just trying to pass on knowledge hard earned since I rebuilt my first bike from bits at age 15 in 1977 (Tiger Cub). Keep going and I reckon the new one is a Kwaker 305 belt drive. Cheers
CHECK YOUR TIMING. Refusing to rev all the way out is a common symptom of being off by a tooth. Also I'd check your valve clearances too those tappets sound like they want to leave the head.
Back in the day, we used to call them the dream on as they were so gutless compared to 400 version. It's the same bike but with a smaller engine but they were very popular, probably because you could ride a 250 on L plates until they changed the law in late 1983 to 125 for learners 17 or older. The cb450dx was the last version based on that bike, and the engine had been improved over the year's, i think the cb450dx was made in Brazil if memory serves. From the audio on the video, it did sound like it was idling on one cylinder in the beginning, and the automatic cam chain tensioners never worked properly. We always had to push them down, well done for persisting and getting to the bottom of it.
If the cam is tensioned properly then the noise could be the balance weight chain, its a dead easy adjustment to do, i had to replace it in my bike but what a world of difference it made!!
Hi there , i owned a 400 super dream and as for the sound , well your 250 N sounds just like my 400 N { a bag of spanners } the problem was a knackered cam chain and tensioner .
If you think its revving at 5000rpm because that rev counter says so, you need to get your hearing checked... That rev counter is knackered and nowhere near accurate. That tappet noise is possibly valve damage from over revving it... It runs now but my best friend had one and it sounded like that not long before it dropped a valve and destroyed the motor.
Wen testing resistance on coils . Heat them up with a hair dryer to. As the heat goes up so will the resistance. Can help show a coil that's just starting to fail
Unfortunately I can't see the carbs are balanced. You need a restriction or a better restriction. The rods in the tool can pulse a little bit but not that much!
Excellent mate! The 250N Superdream was the first bike I went on, my Dad had one when I was a kid... I was going to say it seems like a fuel issue to me but I thought I'd wait until the end of the video to comment, low and behold, you nailed it mate 👍
Not sure why some people are getting butt hurt. You've said all along your learning as you go and they make for really enjoyable videos. Im refreshing a k2 gsxr 750 atm and its such a rewarding thing to do
I had the same problem on a Honda CM200T. Changed the coil, points, condenser, plugs and HT leads and then found the main jet was loose and had fallen into the float bowl!
great that you found all the issues that you did - come on Rye, do a compression test it'll tell you loads plus it's another gadget in your arsenal 😉oh and you sill haven't adjusted the balancer chain - it's a 2 minute job if that - improved mine no end once a mate pointed it out, just do it!
Hi , I have had one of these bike for a few years now , always having problems, l eventually took all the electrics off coils , stator , and the lot , guy tested everything and said they tested ok , but l had put a coil pack on like you bought, he's said throw it away get a good original coil pack , these new copies are absolutely no good for these bikes that can even damage other parts of the electric ignition system, so l did what he said bought a complete used coil pack tested it seemed ok fitted it and the bike works 🤦 all this time effort and money 🤑 💰 well there you go make of it what you can and hope you're bike runs well 😊, all the very best mike from England
Remove spark plug, rotate crank set any piston 10-20° before bdc then push same piston down with a long screw driver. You will feel an extra stroke, no rod bearings left there... Now you have a magnetic oil.
That's what I thought. He was getting approx 14.5 with just the two leads connected but expecting 3 - 5 through the coil which is obviously never going to happen. I noticed the reading was much lower when checking the new coil so I'm guessing one of the leads wasn't connected properly the first time. Looks like a cheap multimeter though.
The superdream i had was good mechanically.I had to strip the carbs and i managed to get a gasket and jet set with new float seals.The float bowl rubbers were thinner than the originals and hylomar was needed to complete the seal.Mine would go fine for about 2 miles then stop with no spark.Replaced the coil,leads and plugs.The plug caps should be non suppressive.This didnt help.I then saw a u tube video about the alternator readings.One was wrong.The guy who did the video does rewinds so i got that done.while replacing it i found the magnetic ignition pick up had its wires soldered in a heatproof sheathing.There was a dry joint and i re soldered them.That fixed the ignition.You can remove the small rh engine panel and adjust the timing chain tensioner.The performance after that was very good for a 250.I was helped by getting a haynes manual that i managed to get online from a charity shop.You can also upgrade the instrument lights with leds,apart from the indicator warning which will only work one direction because the polarity changes for each side.
First stage of any resto. Make sure the engine runs well and isn't a bag of shite. This motor sounds Bad. You need to replace the cam chain, tensioner blades and set the valve clearance to spec. And that's just to make it sound less chappy. It won't fix the running issue.
I mentioned the knocking ´joke´ on my last comment and I hope I am wrong. I just wanted to add that you should check the stator output to ensure it is fine. Sounds odd but stator issues causing poor combustion will result in mechanical racket along with the bike not working properly in certain rpm ranges. If you have not already done so go and test the charging system, it is easy to do with a multi-meter. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Engine sounds get mangled so much by your average video camera's recording hardware. I've had throaty V8s end up sounding like chugging tractors, etc. All of these OHC engines will sound a bit rattly, esp. if you have the valve clearances set to the larger side of the recommended clearance.
Hi There , Great work looking good bike had three super dreams . It does sound not quite right . But still great work and I suppose easy to get on with once going. It sounds better when running. Keep up the great work.👍
Well done Rye, great effort on your restoration journey, ok back in the 80s I had a Superdream and it was super quiet and super smooth, and the only thing I would say is that I did ' recoil in horror ' when you thrashed the poor thing so quickly on it's first outing ! and I'd probably have run the motor in for a hundred or so miles after it being unused for so long, and only in the ' mid rev range ' too.. . but onwards and upwards matey with the ' New project bike ' .. ! 👍😅
New project is a Z650 circa 1977 -1983. You never checked the float level with a clear tube like I suggested in comments to your last video. Just randomly trowing new parts at it the most expensive way of fault finding. Did you check the valve clearances when you had the rockerbox cover off, these things are free, parts are expensive! Good luck🤞, but you can influence your own luck! You cold have checked the LT side of the cols at the soldered terminals at the coil end of the wiring and HT side at the end of the HT leads with the resistor caps off, and you could have also checked the resistance of the caps too.
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That bike is knocking way too much. A Honda does not klatter like that.
I cant believe you took the cam cover off and didnt check the valve clearances. Superdreams used to have very quiet engines. That sounds like a Triumph single.
For an engine you'd just run the cambox looked quite 'dry' when you popped it, two of the head bolts are oil pathways and will cause the head to run dry and tappy if they get blocked in any way, (bad gasket, sealant, copper washers being put on the wrong bolt). Also if you need to manually tighten the honda camchain adjuster you need to be certain it's on the slack part of the chain cycle. I've owned and rebuilt several of these Superdreams and Dreams and the only way the engines were ever that noisy in the valve train was if they needed remedial work. even a 70k mile one was infinitely quieter than this one.
Glad you brought it back to life but please sort the engine out.
I have had a few superdreams.This sounds very tappetty
Agreed.Have the valve clearances been checked...?
I agree!
I thought the same. That will give you smoke , the greater the valve clearance, the greater the smoke I’ve found.
@@stevenlangdon-griffiths293 Bent valves will do the same and that rev counter is a million miles off and when he revved it out on the previous video the engine was at the point of valve bounce.
I was thinking that.
I had one new in 1980 , and a few friends had them too, the engine sounds horrendous , tappets sound like a bag of hammers !! 🏍👍
There is something seriously wrong with the valve train, it needs to be looked at and SOON!!!
As others have said there is something very wrong with the top end on that and the first thing I'd check is the cam, they were well known for pitting the camshaft and I'm betting that's wiped a lobe out. Irrespective of the cause of the noise I'd drop the oil because I suspect that'll be showing a lot of sparkles by now. :(
Ticky? that engine is tapping harder than Fred Astair on speed!
My giggle of the day. Thank you sir
I just HAVE to say, that's NOT how my superdream sounded under throttle at all, no indeed.
It’s rattling like a bag of spanner’s , these bikes are normally quiet machines , it a top end job
No way you consider that "fixed". I like that you ask the audience if they THINK it sounds clanky or it has improved. What are you doing man...
Still sounds like a box of Rusty nails. My bet is valve train.
I would still check the valve clearances
Agreed top end is too noisy for a Honda, it doesn't seem to pull all that well either. Workshop manual to the rescue l
Take the top off and check the valve clearances, then put the bike in 1st gear on the centre stand and get someone to pull up on the back wheel this will make the front run of the camchain tight then undo the adjuster and push it down Gently just enough to remove any slack from the back run of the chain. This has worked for me in the past. Also adjust balance shaft chain.
I had a couple of Superdreams when they first came out back in 1979 - I did my own servicing as I was at school and skint. Yours sounds not bad but a little bit 'tappetty' . One other area you could check would be the balance chain on the right hand side of the engine as these can get noisy. There is an chrome access hole in the engine case to adjust. In theory you just losen a nut on the adjuster inside the access hole and the spring which takes up the adjustment - in practice these tend to stick....so you need to 'flick' the adjuster with a screw driver to free it up and take up the slack. Good luck - I am enjoying the series.
Still too tappetty, and that lazy rev counter would drive me mad.
The rev counter (and the speedo for that matter will do that if you grease the cable incorrectly.....ask me how I know😢
Nice to see an old bike restoration and bought bake to life , great work and perseverance, never give up they can do your head in but it’s worth it in the end.
me being me, i'd have probably done a full engine strip during the tear-down, with new cam & balancer chains as a matter of course.
First thing to do is check the compressions. I would guess one or both is low, and you are going to need to strip the top end to get it sorted. The motor does sound terrible by the way, and I would guess camshaft wear is relatively likely?
That engine sounds totally shagged.
Noisier than my G310R and that’s saying something!
Admire you having a crack at all this stuff, after tearing down my R6 i can only imagine how you do all this manage to film edit and put something out whilst still working a full time job. Got to give you credit you've come a long way since i started watching you. Hard work pays 👍
I need one of those lifts in my life but crickey the price of em :)
Good luck with the future builds. Looking forward to the content.
And I want to appreciate you for your time mate thank you for watching
A healthy Superdream makes a mild "burbling" sound with a touch of gear whine mixed in. The "burble" takes on a harder edge at high rpm with wide open throttle. Your bike doesn't sound quite right, especially at low rpm. You should definitely double check the valve clearances as well as the camchain tensioner, which could be stuck. I believe the SD also has a chain driven balancer shaft, although I don't think its tension can be adjusted.
it's adjustable through the chrome cap in the r/h engine case.
@@kathrynwhitby9799 Thanks; I had forgotten that.
its the cam chain pal had few of these bikes cause that ticking noise is tensioner is not working .....
Mate that engine sounds bad!😱
I have heard Super Dreams being called many things over the years but I will admit that is the 1st time I have heard them referred to as a "little rocket" well done on bringing it back to life!
LOL! I burst out laughing when I heard that too...!!
Hi
If the inlet rubbers were leaking, air from outside would leak into the fuel stream and that would make the mixture leaner, not richer. -and ditto on the top-end clatter.
next you need to check the balance weight chain tension and valve clearances , bit to much rattle going on , i know the copy empty ballance box can make it sound a bit tinnie . great project bike , i have a Dream 250T and CM 250T , neither rattle , but it took a lot of research and repair to achieve this .
yep, the OE balance box had a perforated pipe linking the downpipes internally.
I didn't want to come across as a hater with my comment earlier.Youve don't a really nice job on the the bike.Just get the motor sorted and you will be surprised how much better it is capable of being.keep up the good work.
That does not sound like a Honda should! Something wrong there!
Well done for not giving up.
Thanks Paul
Well done sorting the bogging down, we all knew you'd get there in the end. At the risk of sounding like a stuck record, I can only repeat. The clackity noise is 100% cam related, the frequency is exactly that of a twin with out of range gaps or worn rocker lobes or worn cam ovality. You have to lift the cam rockers off and visually inspect, which then gives you visibility of the cam shaft ovality too. If you listen to "motorcycle fettler" ride his on You tube you will agree that yours is "not quite right". This problem also reduces power output as you can imagine. I'm not being a "hater" or "negative" just trying to pass on knowledge hard earned since I rebuilt my first bike from bits at age 15 in 1977 (Tiger Cub). Keep going and I reckon the new one is a Kwaker 305 belt drive. Cheers
CHECK YOUR TIMING. Refusing to rev all the way out is a common symptom of being off by a tooth.
Also I'd check your valve clearances too those tappets sound like they want to leave the head.
Its not that it is not revving... Listen to the engine and look at the rev counter...
@@YAMR1M I'll admit I left that comment before the end of the video. Doesn't change the fact that the engine sounds like a bucket of bolts though
Back in the day, we used to call them the dream on as they were so gutless compared to 400 version. It's the same bike but with a smaller engine but they were very popular, probably because you could ride a 250 on L plates until they changed the law in late 1983 to 125 for learners 17 or older. The cb450dx was the last version based on that bike, and the engine had been improved over the year's, i think the cb450dx was made in Brazil if memory serves. From the audio on the video, it did sound like it was idling on one cylinder in the beginning, and the automatic cam chain tensioners never worked properly. We always had to push them down, well done for persisting and getting to the bottom of it.
I said it was running ritch in the last video, check the valve clearances and or cam lobe wear, it should not sound like that.
If the cam is tensioned properly then the noise could be the balance weight chain, its a dead easy adjustment to do, i had to replace it in my bike but what a world of difference it made!!
I’m not sure you have sorted it as it’s still very noisy. I get the impression you are just glad to see the back of it . 😢
What a knocking on that cam it sounds goosed.
I have had two of these when they first came out . That bike has top end problems it definitely needs a strip down .
Hi there , i owned a 400 super dream and as for the sound , well your 250 N sounds just like my 400 N { a bag of spanners } the problem was a knackered cam chain and tensioner .
The engine sounds wrong, you have to adjust the valves. My old 400 Super Dream never sounded like that.
If you think its revving at 5000rpm because that rev counter says so, you need to get your hearing checked... That rev counter is knackered and nowhere near accurate. That tappet noise is possibly valve damage from over revving it... It runs now but my best friend had one and it sounded like that not long before it dropped a valve and destroyed the motor.
Well done for keeping at it . Still think a rebore a pistons would do it the world of good .They just don’t sound like that .
Wen testing resistance on coils . Heat them up with a hair dryer to. As the heat goes up so will the resistance. Can help show a coil that's just starting to fail
Can chain will make that noise. Clutch basket could be loose too
Fair play for persevering with it. Looking forward to seeing what the next project is
Unfortunately I can't see the carbs are balanced. You need a restriction or a better restriction. The rods in the tool can pulse a little bit but not that much!
Sounds like the cam lobes and rockers are gouged due to lack of oil to me.
Brilliant, kudos for sticking at it and figuring it out. Youll remember that should you come across a similar fault in the future 👍
Absolutely!! Learn through experience 😉
They wasnt called wet dream for nothing, seriously sounds rough though shouldn't sound like that, fair play don't give up on it
Cb250rs deluxe was a better bike
Could be valve timing. The head needs to come off to check top of pistons. or borrow a boroscope
Yes, I remember the Honda Super dream, very well, Stephen.
i had Honda CM250T (same engine) back in 1982 , that cam chain rattle is not normal, sounds awful.
Excellent mate! The 250N Superdream was the first bike I went on, my Dad had one when I was a kid... I was going to say it seems like a fuel issue to me but I thought I'd wait until the end of the video to comment, low and behold, you nailed it mate 👍
Not sure why some people are getting butt hurt. You've said all along your learning as you go and they make for really enjoyable videos. Im refreshing a k2 gsxr 750 atm and its such a rewarding thing to do
My first bike after passing my bike test was an old 250 super dream, happy days
Tappets need clearances adjusted. Still sounds like a food blender.
Glad you got to the bottom of the issue, persistence prevails mate 👍🏼
I think a lot of people are jealous? Keep it up BikesofRye we are all learning and progressing.
I had the same problem on a Honda CM200T. Changed the coil, points, condenser, plugs and HT leads and then found the main jet was loose and had fallen into the float bowl!
great that you found all the issues that you did - come on Rye, do a compression test it'll tell you loads plus it's another gadget in your arsenal 😉oh and you sill haven't adjusted the balancer chain - it's a 2 minute job if that - improved mine no end once a mate pointed it out, just do it!
Well done, lad. Cant be easy learning a new skill on TH-cam with the amount of criticism you receive.
Fair play👍
Balance weight drive chain adjust the quadrant right hand side crank case
Well done, it is not the first time I have encountered loose jets, a rare problem. I'm still puzzled by that new coil.
Many years ago, I owned a 250 Super Dream and I always thought it sounded like a bag of spanners.
Not that I thought that the coil was at fault, but even ones that give valid resistances both when cold and hot can be defective
Sorry dude but that engine sounds awful through my headphones!
Hi , I have had one of these bike for a few years now , always having problems, l eventually took all the electrics off coils , stator , and the lot , guy tested everything and said they tested ok , but l had put a coil pack on like you bought, he's said throw it away get a good original coil pack , these new copies are absolutely no good for these bikes that can even damage other parts of the electric ignition system, so l did what he said bought a complete used coil pack tested it seemed ok fitted it and the bike works 🤦 all this time effort and money 🤑 💰 well there you go make of it what you can and hope you're bike runs well 😊, all the very best mike from England
Sounds as it should I had one in the late seventies loved it ,wish I had one now just for weekends
That engine is very rattly, which is suggestive of the cam chain tensioner and valve clearances requiring adjustment.
Have you done a compression and leakdown test?
new camchain or spring in tensioner ,and check tappets
14.5 ohms on a "lead check"?
that should be reading zero or nearly zero.
Well done for an epic job getting it back up and running really well..
Remove spark plug, rotate crank set any piston 10-20° before bdc then push same piston down with a long screw driver. You will feel an extra stroke, no rod bearings left there... Now you have a magnetic oil.
I had cb125 twin and it didn't sound like this at least from memory
My Honda single sounded like that when the camchain expired
How come you’re getting a resistance when all you’re doing is connecting the two leads !!! I reckon you need another tester!!
That's what I thought. He was getting approx 14.5 with just the two leads connected but expecting 3 - 5 through the coil which is obviously never going to happen. I noticed the reading was much lower when checking the new coil so I'm guessing one of the leads wasn't connected properly the first time. Looks like a cheap multimeter though.
My old man used to say, look for the simplest things first it’s worked for me many times
Do a compression test, it doesn't cost anything and will confirm a few things for you.
The superdream i had was good mechanically.I had to strip the carbs and i managed to get a gasket and jet set with new float seals.The float bowl rubbers were thinner than the originals and hylomar was needed to complete the seal.Mine would go fine for about 2 miles then stop with no spark.Replaced the coil,leads and plugs.The plug caps should be non suppressive.This didnt help.I then saw a u tube video about the alternator readings.One was wrong.The guy who did the video does rewinds so i got that done.while replacing it i found the magnetic ignition pick up had its wires soldered in a heatproof sheathing.There was a dry joint and i re soldered them.That fixed the ignition.You can remove the small rh engine panel and adjust the timing chain tensioner.The performance after that was very good for a 250.I was helped by getting a haynes manual that i managed to get online from a charity shop.You can also upgrade the instrument lights with leds,apart from the indicator warning which will only work one direction because the polarity changes for each side.
First stage of any resto. Make sure the engine runs well and isn't a bag of shite. This motor sounds Bad. You need to replace the cam chain, tensioner blades and set the valve clearance to spec. And that's just to make it sound less chappy. It won't fix the running issue.
Who left a loose main jet then? Rookie mistake.
Well done sir love this project video it has reminds me of my time with my super dream happy days can’t wait for your next project take care 😊👍
Knock, knock! Who´s there? Rod! Get it?! Drop the oil pan and give the big end bearings a once over.
The valve clearances need checking, and it should be stone cold when they’re done.
Awesome work Rye, great job sticking with it. OK OK can’t wait what’s next👏
I mentioned the knocking ´joke´ on my last comment and I hope I am wrong. I just wanted to add that you should check the stator output to ensure it is fine. Sounds odd but stator issues causing poor combustion will result in mechanical racket along with the bike not working properly in certain rpm ranges. If you have not already done so go and test the charging system, it is easy to do with a multi-meter. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Check again for lollipop sticks in the spokes.
nice one buddy. glad you got it sorted. was it the idle or main jet that fell out. keep up the good work.
Engine sounds get mangled so much by your average video camera's recording hardware. I've had throaty V8s end up sounding like chugging tractors, etc.
All of these OHC engines will sound a bit rattly, esp. if you have the valve clearances set to the larger side of the recommended clearance.
Hi There , Great work looking good bike had three super dreams . It does sound not quite right . But still great work and I suppose easy to get on with once going. It sounds better when running. Keep up the great work.👍
Great stuff. Well done.
Thank you! Cheers Mick
well done, I was going to say from how black the plug was its the carbs because its super rich.
mine never sounded like that - ever
Probably a slack cam chain tensioner or carbs out of ballance
Well done Rye, great effort on your restoration journey, ok back in the 80s I had a Superdream and it was super quiet and super smooth, and the only thing I would say is that I did ' recoil in horror ' when you thrashed the poor thing so quickly on it's first outing ! and I'd probably have run the motor in for a hundred or so miles after it being unused for so long, and only in the ' mid rev range ' too.. . but onwards and upwards matey with the ' New project bike ' .. ! 👍😅
You need to fix the Revcounter, it is very sluggish and not reading correctly
just ecsept super dreams are not super just being polite john
New project is a Z650 circa 1977 -1983. You never checked the float level with a clear tube like I suggested in comments to your last video. Just randomly trowing new parts at it the most expensive way of fault finding. Did you check the valve clearances when you had the rockerbox cover off, these things are free, parts are expensive! Good luck🤞, but you can influence your own luck! You cold have checked the LT side of the cols at the soldered terminals at the coil end of the wiring and HT side at the end of the HT leads with the resistor caps off, and you could have also checked the resistance of the caps too.
It sounds way too noisy for a super dream. I'd be checking the valves.
check the tappet clearances , also the piston rings, Sounds like a bag of nails!