I have several live rebuild videos of you want to see any of these in a step by step tutorial. Hope you’ll find them helpful! They’re in my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions you might have. Always happy to help if I can. Good luck!
HUGE +++ on the eye protection. I'm super blaze about it but can't tell you how many times i've sprayed my face (thankfully not my eyes directly) with a squirt of carb cleaner jetting up through some orifice.
Wonderfully done video. I like you mentioned safety glasses, also as an added measure I would use gloves with all those chemicals because of skin absorption... just my opinion is all. Thank you
I have a 69 carter which was bought out by edelbrock. They say everything is exact same but I've already found out that's not true. The 2 air adj screws are different size and thread. One of mine was bent and wouldn't seat. Ordered a set and they didnt fit. Had to take to machine shop and they straightened the original and sprayed dye down hole and it showed on end of screw that seat was perfect now. But I'm still having heck of a time getting it right. Way to rich, almost wouldn't run. Added a guage and regulator and set at about 5 psi. Better, but still strong smell of gas on idle, but almost choked when hot the gas hard. So, bought the full kit of springs, rods, jets. And went up slowly 1 at a time til I finally could nail it without half dying. It actually did a pretty good burn out and launch.......but pretty heavy still on idle. I had to go almost to the end of the chart with almost largest rod, spring, and jet....which isnt right because it's a stock 350 low compression 1972 factory motor that's never been modified. Very puzzled . Your vids are a help though and gives me some things to check
Great video, I need to rebuild my carb and you make it look easy. It seems that my accelerator pump has stopped spraying because I can't start my car without starter spray. My carb might just be gummed up, but I def need to rebuild it. Thanks for the great video!
Not sure if you're still watching this chat, but I have a 1406 that I just cleaned. After reassembly, I have no spring tension on the primaries. The secondaries will snap shut like they are supposed to. The primary throttle linking just flops around until you reach the secondary linkage. I could swear the primaries would snap shut before. Am I crazy or have I screwed something up?
So when you rebuild this carb after taking everything apart do you put the parts in a bucket or so and let the carb sit in there with gas or any kind of product?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I’ll be sure to put the bell on 🔔 How can I tell if I have a timing advance issue or carb issue Stumbles real bad off idle so rebuilt it and same.
@@tommytron2000 start with the simple things. What is your initial timing set to? What size carb and what are the engine specs? What is your fuel pressure set to?
On a tangent The secondary butterfly valves stick about 70% of the the time. Is something’s your seen before? Got me thinking of just getting a new “Fuel make it happener”
do you have any tips on getting stuck paper gaskets off the bottom of the carb? Previous owner just used the paper gasket and it's a mess. I don't want to mess up the bottom of the carb with gouges.
I'm running Rich from rebuild on my 360 Dodge so I am trying to get it set up right so it is reliable and responsive still I have no idea what I'm doing but not afraid to try or get my hands dirty if I could just weld it i would be good God bless from Canada thanks for the help!
There are a number of videos in my Edelbrock carb playlist. Check out the one on fuel system set up. You’ve got to have that right before you get started. There’s one on how to ready to tuning chart found in the owners manual of your carb. Makes it easy to understand and what steps to take in the tuning process. Also one on squirters and step up springs. Critical to not neglect the springs!
So I just rebuilt my 1406 600cfm carb. And when I'm setting my rpm to where it needs to be I have fuel dribbling out of the primary venturi only on the driver side. New floats, new N/S everything. And when truing to get highest vacuum as well I have no difference on the driver side idle mixture screw. But everything on the passenger side is working just fine. I rebuilt it due to very crappy idle and I didn't have any difference on the driver side idle mixture screw. Any help would be greatly appreciated
@@KyleNock-s6q if all the air bleeds and the idle passages are clear, then you’re either in the transfer slots, you have a vacuum leak, fuel pressure is too high or floats are set incorrectly. Those are the common issues.
Thank you for sharing your brain with us! :) This won't be the first set of questions, but, two of your videos did say to ask away. 1) Will my C.A.R.B. gas kill my accelerator pump rubber? Can I even use E85 in a pinch or even regularly, if I tune it (lambda/AFR tune) ? (I wonder if I can get an extra one or two and replace it between rebuilds? I'll call them.) 2) I have two carbs in my garage: 600 Electric and a 750 Manual. Both used. Without sounding too dumb (I have not taken any Edelbrocks apart, yet, but, will this weekend ) are any of the critical parts interchangeable, such as jets or rods or venturi or pump - I assume because of the rebuild kit? Thank you, again, and appreciate your time!
You can't run E85 with a carburetor without serious jetting changes. If your carburetor is set to run gasoline, you will need to jet your carb way higher. Also be aware that E85 requires a much higher compression ratio to produce the same available energy as gasoline. Hopefully you are turbocharged, otherwise you gain nothing from using E85 fuel unless you have a 13:1 compression ratio.
I really need some help. I have two edelbrocks Webern 1407 that I just can't seem to fix or nobody knows how to fix. Would you be able to assist me, I'm asking before I go through the whole scenario.
Hey man I've got a 1406 that has a seized primary jet. I've tried to remove with a easy out no luck have you ever had to drill out and use a heli coil to repair and did it work without leaking past the threads?
Nope. When they are that far gone, it’s always been easier to replace. If it’s due to ethanol breaking down the material, it’s not the only part affected. You could try the helicoil or timesert option. I never have but it might work out.
For sure let me know how it goes. But my response will be the same unless I decide to give it a try. There’s a reason why it seized up and that usually points back to the ethanol. Do a good inspection and see if you find any of that corrosion internally. Once it starts, there’s no way to reverse it. Nasty caustic stuff!
Hi great video btw!!!! I sent out my carburetor to a local shop to get it rebuild. I got it back today and decided to install it back. Everything was running great for the first 15 mins and after that it started to run rough and you can see smokes coming out of the exhaust. I made some adjustments on the mixture thinking that it’s running rich but now when you start the car after is warm up it will only run for less than 5 mins and it stalls out. Any advice would be appreciate it. I have the edelbrock 1826. Thank you
Wow thank you for a quick response! No pressure regulator here and def watched that other video also lol.with that said this carb is on a 1964 Impala sbc 283. Do you think this is the right size carb for it? This carb was manufactured back in 2004 I was thinking about the avs2 500cfm?
Everything is factory from the cam except the intake manifold it’s an edelbrock manifold. I guess I also have to have an extra filter from the tank to the line cuz the car only came with the filter before the carb. Thank you for all your help 🙏🏼
One more question, do you have any recommendations if I stay with this carb what part# I should use for leaning the metering size Rod and jets. It’s literally just a cruiser
Well def found the problem! I should of gone with my gut feeling. The guy that rebuilt it told me not to touch anything beside the Idle screw after it warms up. Well I look at the screw for the fuel and air was all turned to counterclockwise 🤯 that’s why it’s running rich and it wouldn’t stay running!
I have my 1405 on my desk. When the throttle lever is activated it will not open the secondary, just the primary. Trying to mimic the operation i see in your video at the 27:06 mark. My primary opens only no secondary.
Sounds like you’re missing the small linkage piece that connects the primary throttle shaft to the secondary shaft. It’s opposite the side where your gas pedal linkage hooks to.
Help Edelbrock 1406 been sitting awhile gas get to carburetor can see it in the clear filter but wont go into carburetor if i crank it then gas comes up through the needle valves and out the gasket if i drop some gas down the carb van fires right up ~~ by the way great videos very informative
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank You For The Quick Reply And Information ~~~ horrible fuel says a lot i will never let it sit again " Happy New Year To You And Yours "
It’s what meters the air flow and in turn meters the amount of fuel that pulls through the boosters based on the pressure drop in the manifold. I don’t think taking that out is probably a good idea. lol
@@MuscleCarSolutions interesting, seems my modified carb has all the manual choke parts removed AND that weighted butterfly plate is out also...can't say I feel anything wrong with carb performance but maybe it'll pull harder up top with it back in there?
@@MuscleCarSolutions no AFR gauge, but the engine comes alive at full throttle! Rebuilding carb sometime this week. Gonna put it back together with ALL it's parts haha
@@daviddntait yup. Rebuild and retune it. Assuming it’s the right size carb for what you’re working on. Maybe that was someone’s way of compensating for not tuning or another issue. You’ll know soon enough! Good luck with the rebuild. I have a bunch of videos on that topic and how to tune.
Not an option for most people. Non ethanol fuel isn’t available at every station. Higher grade fuels don’t necessarily mean higher quality. In fact it’s less. Doesn’t sell as quickly and sits in the storage tanks longer which has a longer period of time to attract water and all the mess that goes along with it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions so I got a 73 mercury cougar. 351 c 4 barrel heads . I'm taking off my 750 Edelbrock. I'm putting on a 650 Edelbrock. My idling is no good because I think of the slop in the butterfly shaft. an Edelbrock told me that's too much carburetor for that engine. so I'm going to try it. what do you think?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I bought the car that way 3 weeks ago. I took off the Ford intake to spread bar and put on a performer intake from Edelbrock. because he had a doctors to the new Edelbrock 750 and I was getting vacuum leaks.
@@MuscleCarSolutions let me try this again I bought this car 3 weeks ago. he had a stock intake on it. that was a spread bore intake. he used adapters to make the Edelbrock 750 fit. it had vacuum leaks. so I put an Edelbrock performer intake on.
Ya lost me! Are you saying you have the 750 on a performer intake and it’s got a rough idle? What’s your initial timing set at? What’s your fuel pressure set at? What did you set your floats to? If you screw your idle mixture screws all the way in does it get better, worse or kill the engine?
Best Edelbrock rebuild video I have seen, great job!
Great video. With your tuning chart video and this video I am really learning alot about Edelbrock carburetors. Happy New Year.
Good deal. Glad to hear that!
And happy new year to you also!
Thank you!! I feel I am read to attempt my first rebuild! Well Done!
I have several live rebuild videos of you want to see any of these in a step by step tutorial. Hope you’ll find them helpful! They’re in my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions you might have. Always happy to help if I can. Good luck!
HUGE +++ on the eye protection. I'm super blaze about it but can't tell you how many times i've sprayed my face (thankfully not my eyes directly) with a squirt of carb cleaner jetting up through some orifice.
Wonderfully done video. I like you mentioned safety glasses, also as an added measure I would use gloves with all those chemicals because of skin absorption... just my opinion is all. Thank you
I have a 69 carter which was bought out by edelbrock. They say everything is exact same but I've already found out that's not true. The 2 air adj screws are different size and thread. One of mine was bent and wouldn't seat. Ordered a set and they didnt fit. Had to take to machine shop and they straightened the original and sprayed dye down hole and it showed on end of screw that seat was perfect now. But I'm still having heck of a time getting it right. Way to rich, almost wouldn't run. Added a guage and regulator and set at about 5 psi. Better, but still strong smell of gas on idle, but almost choked when hot the gas hard. So, bought the full kit of springs, rods, jets. And went up slowly 1 at a time til I finally could nail it without half dying. It actually did a pretty good burn out and launch.......but pretty heavy still on idle. I had to go almost to the end of the chart with almost largest rod, spring, and jet....which isnt right because it's a stock 350 low compression 1972 factory motor that's never been modified. Very puzzled . Your vids are a help though and gives me some things to check
Great video, I need to rebuild my carb and you make it look easy. It seems that my accelerator pump has stopped spraying because I can't start my car without starter spray. My carb might just be gummed up, but I def need to rebuild it. Thanks for the great video!
Just clean the check ball cause its stuck in the gumm.
Hey bones have u ever tried those imitation ebay kits. Nothings better than manufacturer i know but man for the price what do u think?
@@MuscleCarSolutions sorry my break was over. There are rebuild kits on ebay from $15 to 30 for edelbrock. Probably Chinese
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for reply
Not sure if you're still watching this chat, but I have a 1406 that I just cleaned. After reassembly, I have no spring tension on the primaries. The secondaries will snap shut like they are supposed to. The primary throttle linking just flops around until you reach the secondary linkage. I could swear the primaries would snap shut before. Am I crazy or have I screwed something up?
So when you rebuild this carb after taking everything apart do you put the parts in a bucket or so and let the carb sit in there with gas or any kind of product?
New sub here
I hope your still creating content.
This video helped
Put out 50-60 videos a year. Jan 8th starts the new year for my schedule. Cheers!
@@MuscleCarSolutions
I’ll be sure to put the bell on 🔔
How can I tell if I have a timing advance issue or carb issue
Stumbles real bad off idle so rebuilt it and same.
@@tommytron2000 start with the simple things. What is your initial timing set to? What size carb and what are the engine specs? What is your fuel pressure set to?
@@MuscleCarSolutions
I’m going to have to test things
Arnt I.
On a tangent
The secondary butterfly valves stick about 70% of the the time.
Is something’s your seen before?
Got me thinking of just getting a new “Fuel make it happener”
Do you know how to hook up the down shift lever to the C-4 transmission on my 1970 ford Torino GT with a 302 CID engine my card is a 1406 6063
Memphis, quick question. What are your feelings about adjusting float drop? Should it be done on a rebuild? Great video.
do you have any tips on getting stuck paper gaskets off the bottom of the carb? Previous owner just used the paper gasket and it's a mess. I don't want to mess up the bottom of the carb with gouges.
Carb cleaner/solvent and a plastic putty knife if you’re concerned about scratching.
I'm running Rich from rebuild on my 360 Dodge so I am trying to get it set up right so it is reliable and responsive still I have no idea what I'm doing but not afraid to try or get my hands dirty if I could just weld it i would be good God bless from Canada thanks for the help!
There are a number of videos in my Edelbrock carb playlist. Check out the one on fuel system set up. You’ve got to have that right before you get started. There’s one on how to ready to tuning chart found in the owners manual of your carb. Makes it easy to understand and what steps to take in the tuning process. Also one on squirters and step up springs. Critical to not neglect the springs!
So I just rebuilt my 1406 600cfm carb. And when I'm setting my rpm to where it needs to be I have fuel dribbling out of the primary venturi only on the driver side. New floats, new N/S everything. And when truing to get highest vacuum as well I have no difference on the driver side idle mixture screw. But everything on the passenger side is working just fine. I rebuilt it due to very crappy idle and I didn't have any difference on the driver side idle mixture screw. Any help would be greatly appreciated
@@KyleNock-s6q if all the air bleeds and the idle passages are clear, then you’re either in the transfer slots, you have a vacuum leak, fuel pressure is too high or floats are set incorrectly. Those are the common issues.
Found the locally these are about $45+ and half that on EBAY or AMAZON.
Just wait a few days for the better price.
Can you make a video on how to tune dual quads?
Maybe next time I do one. It’s rare that I tune one. Most get rid of them. Look cool, not worth the effort.
I’m using regular unleaded I’m going to attempt to overhaul my carb when I’m finished should I use some sort of additive
Thank you for sharing your brain with us! :) This won't be the first set of questions, but, two of your videos did say to ask away. 1) Will my C.A.R.B. gas kill my accelerator pump rubber? Can I even use E85 in a pinch or even regularly, if I tune it (lambda/AFR tune) ? (I wonder if I can get an extra one or two and replace it between rebuilds? I'll call them.) 2) I have two carbs in my garage: 600 Electric and a 750 Manual. Both used. Without sounding too dumb (I have not taken any Edelbrocks apart, yet, but, will this weekend ) are any of the critical parts interchangeable, such as jets or rods or venturi or pump - I assume because of the rebuild kit? Thank you, again, and appreciate your time!
You can't run E85 with a carburetor without serious jetting changes. If your carburetor is set to run gasoline, you will need to jet your carb way higher. Also be aware that E85 requires a much higher compression ratio to produce the same available energy as gasoline. Hopefully you are turbocharged, otherwise you gain nothing from using E85 fuel unless you have a 13:1 compression ratio.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Many thanks! Carb Defender added to list. 👍
@@jeffgabrisl7016 Thank you, Jeff. I understand. I have 10:1. After this morning's info from all of u, rejecting the E85 route. Thanks!
I really need some help. I have two edelbrocks Webern 1407 that I just can't seem to fix or nobody knows how to fix. Would you be able to assist me, I'm asking before I go through the whole scenario.
Hey man I've got a 1406 that has a seized primary jet. I've tried to remove with a easy out no luck have you ever had to drill out and use a heli coil to repair and did it work without leaking past the threads?
Nope. When they are that far gone, it’s always been easier to replace. If it’s due to ethanol breaking down the material, it’s not the only part affected. You could try the helicoil or timesert option. I never have but it might work out.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for the reply if I try it I'll let you know how it goes that way if you ever get asked again you may know to respond
For sure let me know how it goes. But my response will be the same unless I decide to give it a try. There’s a reason why it seized up and that usually points back to the ethanol. Do a good inspection and see if you find any of that corrosion internally. Once it starts, there’s no way to reverse it. Nasty caustic stuff!
Hi great video btw!!!! I sent out my carburetor to a local shop to get it rebuild. I got it back today and decided to install it back. Everything was running great for the first 15 mins and after that it started to run rough and you can see smokes coming out of the exhaust. I made some adjustments on the mixture thinking that it’s running rich but now when you start the car after is warm up it will only run for less than 5 mins and it stalls out. Any advice would be appreciate it. I have the edelbrock 1826. Thank you
Wow thank you for a quick response! No pressure regulator here and def watched that other video also lol.with that said this carb is on a 1964 Impala sbc 283. Do you think this is the right size carb for it? This carb was manufactured back in 2004 I was thinking about the avs2 500cfm?
Everything is factory from the cam except the intake manifold it’s an edelbrock manifold. I guess I also have to have an extra filter from the tank to the line cuz the car only came with the filter before the carb. Thank you for all your help 🙏🏼
Def will!! 👍🏽🙏🏼
One more question, do you have any recommendations if I stay with this carb what part# I should use for leaning the metering size Rod and jets. It’s literally just a cruiser
Well def found the problem! I should of gone with my gut feeling. The guy that rebuilt it told me not to touch anything beside the Idle screw after it warms up. Well I look at the screw for the fuel and air was all turned to counterclockwise 🤯 that’s why it’s running rich and it wouldn’t stay running!
You forgot to put the little ball in spacer in
Do you rebuilt carb for other people and if you do how much do you charge
I do it for a few folks local to me but that’s it. I’ve given most of what’s needed to know on these videos. No charge!
Can you provide a link for your video on tuning the Edelbrock?
Sal Mineo th-cam.com/play/PLzRZhhuK5WiCO_FamS74Ci8hmQVbWsTpO.html
I have my 1405 on my desk. When the throttle lever is activated it will not open the secondary, just the primary. Trying to mimic the operation i see in your video at the 27:06 mark. My primary opens only no secondary.
Sounds like you’re missing the small linkage piece that connects the primary throttle shaft to the secondary shaft. It’s opposite the side where your gas pedal linkage hooks to.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok after cleaning i placed in closet for a month, the secondary was sticking, once I lubed it up - it opens now
Help Edelbrock 1406 been sitting awhile gas get to carburetor can see it in the clear filter but wont go into carburetor if i crank it then gas comes up through the needle valves and out the gasket if i drop some gas down the carb van fires right up ~~ by the way great videos very informative
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank You For The Quick Reply And Information ~~~ horrible fuel says a lot i will never let it sit again " Happy New Year To You And Yours "
My 1405 Edelbrock is not pumping gas the fuel pump is working but it has been sitting up for a while but it will start
What would happen if you left out that butterfly piece that goes over the secondaries?
It’s what meters the air flow and in turn meters the amount of fuel that pulls through the boosters based on the pressure drop in the manifold. I don’t think taking that out is probably a good idea. lol
@@MuscleCarSolutions interesting, seems my modified carb has all the manual choke parts removed AND that weighted butterfly plate is out also...can't say I feel anything wrong with carb performance but maybe it'll pull harder up top with it back in there?
Have an AFR hooked up? What’s it running at part and WOT? If not, is it running rich?
@@MuscleCarSolutions no AFR gauge, but the engine comes alive at full throttle! Rebuilding carb sometime this week. Gonna put it back together with ALL it's parts haha
@@daviddntait yup. Rebuild and retune it. Assuming it’s the right size carb for what you’re working on. Maybe that was someone’s way of compensating for not tuning or another issue. You’ll know soon enough! Good luck with the rebuild. I have a bunch of videos on that topic and how to tune.
To avoid all the additives why not just use a higher grade of fuel and avoid Ethanol altogether.
Cost yes
Not an option for most people. Non ethanol fuel isn’t available at every station. Higher grade fuels don’t necessarily mean higher quality. In fact it’s less. Doesn’t sell as quickly and sits in the storage tanks longer which has a longer period of time to attract water and all the mess that goes along with it.
what about the slop in the throttle shaft
Inconsequential. I did a Short with that info.
@@MuscleCarSolutions so I got a 73 mercury cougar. 351 c 4 barrel heads . I'm taking off my 750 Edelbrock. I'm putting on a 650 Edelbrock. My idling is no good because I think of the slop in the butterfly shaft. an Edelbrock told me that's too much carburetor for that engine. so I'm going to try it. what do you think?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I bought the car that way 3 weeks ago. I took off the Ford intake to spread bar and put on a performer intake from Edelbrock. because he had a doctors to the new Edelbrock 750 and I was getting vacuum leaks.
@@MuscleCarSolutions let me try this again
I bought this car 3 weeks ago. he had a stock intake on it. that was a spread bore intake. he used adapters to make the Edelbrock 750 fit. it had vacuum leaks. so I put an Edelbrock performer intake on.
Ya lost me! Are you saying you have the 750 on a performer intake and it’s got a rough idle? What’s your initial timing set at? What’s your fuel pressure set at? What did you set your floats to? If you screw your idle mixture screws all the way in does it get better, worse or kill the engine?
Why didn’t you show how the check ball went in ?????????????????????????????????????????????
It’s on another video??????????????????????????????????????????????????
🎰💪🏻
58 seconds in and a ad. Jesus
Go complain to TH-cam. I take them out, they put them back in.
Why did you say Jesus
Anything you can tell me about this carb? 1826s 5027