good info, my pistons are .006 above deck (347 sbf) my engine builder said a .047 compressed Fel Pro gasket will be ok, so I should end up with .041 piston to cylinder head clearance. This is with a 2618 forged Wiseco flat top and Scat forged I beam rods.
Yes, you're clearances are good and the gasket thickness you're using is very similar to what I'm using (0.051" compressed ) so you should be fine and have a successful build. Glad the video helped and thanks for watching ......Oliver
great video. i'm doing a rebuild after a timing belt snapped and wanted to check if i might need the same or thicker gasket. i have no warping on the head and the face just needs to clean up but still i wanna make sure it's all good in there. is the 0.040" piston to head clearance applicable to all car ices?
Yes I measured piston rock in the wrist pin direction. I got 0.015 to 0.020 so we'll still have enough piston to cylinder head clearance using our 0.051" compressed mls head gaskets. You can see confirmation of this at this video link th-cam.com/video/DX61wAVPkxA/w-d-xo.html ....Thanks for watching and commenting.....Oliver
Great video, I have a b18c1 Honda engine I’m rebuilding, the head I bought has been resurfaced about .017” from the spec for a new head by the previous owner. I believe the stock headgasket is .03”. Do I just add that difference to my stock headgasket thickness and buy a gasket that size or as close as possible (.045”)?
You can use which ever gasket you have as 0.017 removed from the head was just to ensure the head surface is flat, and will create a good seal. You'll get a slight increase in compression and better quench, which both add to better performance. Only time you have to get a thicker gasket is if you need a lower compression ratio and if there are piston to valve clearance issues. Thanks for watching and commenting....
@@BooostedLS I just figure because the manual says that .008” is the max that can be removed so I figured I should make up that loss of material with the headgasket
I have a Honda k20 engine. I have 1mm oversized dished valves on the intake and I have stock size flat faced valves on exhaust side. Is this a good set up?
Sure, as long as you have 0.100" valve to piston clearance when the piston is at top dead center and the valves are fully open. Put some plasticine on top of the piston then carefully rotate engine . Then measure the depth of the plasticine after you've rotated the engine through a couple of cycles. Go slow as if there is interference you'll feel it right away if something is not correct. If everything checks out you'll be good to go.....Oliver
More then enough in this case. As you can see these pistons have a big dish and valve reliefs cut into the piston tops, as they are designed for boost. Using a cam with only 0.585" lift for both intake and exhaust there is no chance for piston to valve collision. If it was a complete flat top piston and a much bigger cam I would have checked with plasticine . The minimum clearance for this would be about 0.050". Thanks for commenting and watching....Oliver
You didn't rock the pistons at TDC to get the max down max up average, this is done to account for the taper in the top side of the piston and the PTW clearance. Increasing the gasket thickness is an obsolete and dead wrong practice in engine building, matter of fact running a higher CR is better than running lower CR with thicker head gasket it's melts down the piston quench and how effective the homogenous air vortex created by the piston in the compression stroke
The gasket bore is bigger (4.060 ) then our cylinder bore which is (4.030 ). So this will be fine as long as the gasket does not protrude into the cylinder bore creating interference for the pistons, that actually go above the deck in my case. You can see the first successful drive at this link here. th-cam.com/video/PfrtuPXEY_U/w-d-xo.html Thanks for commenting and watching....Oliver
Thank you. It feels good to finally get the project going and seems like everything is working as it should going around the block a couple of times. I'll definitely be putting the car through more tests, and documenting that whole process. Thanks again for your input and watching. I'll be posting some more video's shortly.....Oliver
Thank you for the info and maybe you can help me out. I'm using the same exact setup as yours in terms of rotating assembly. However, I'm measuring .015" piston above deck surface. The ls block I bought is advertised to be 9.240 but there is no way that can be. 9.240 they claim -4 /2 + 6.125 = 1.115. My boost piston CH is 1.110 - 1.115 is -.005" but I'm protruding .015". Does this mean my block has been decked to 9.225"?
Hello Jose. Thanks for watching and commenting. It is possible that your block deck is now 9.225. Rod at my machine shop said he only machined 0.005 of each of my decks to get it square and flat. As you can see when I measured the decks on the other holes there was slight variation as to how much the pistons were above deck. I'm thinking that from the factory the blocks may not be exactly at 9.240" as advertised. this is most likely because there is an acceptable tolerance of plus or minus0.010" to 0.005" or greater . Also the pistons compression height might not be exact either as the technician machining the pistons may have had his measuring tools or measurements not exactly correct, and therefore didn't enter the proper off-sets in his CNC lathe as they were being finish machined.. It could also be the crankshaft is giving you a little more stroke 4.005 vs 4.000 as this is also a machined component and may not be exact. The connecting rods center to center distance could be another potential point of discrepancy as they also might not be as advertised. So the point here is, it can be any number of factors in the manufacturing of all these components as to why your numbers are not as expected. I would not worry too much. As long as there are no collisions between piston and the cylinder head you should be good in terms of your rotating assembly. Good luck with your build and let me know how it all works out for you and again thanks for watching and your input....Oliver
@@Six_ftdeep32 That is a nice rotating assembly which I was also going to buy. I went with the rotating assembly from LSXeceleration because theirs was balanced as it shipped to me. I thought I could get my project back on the road last season so I went for that one, as I thought it would be quicker. here we are heading into the new season and if all goes well the car should be ready this time around...lol...Oliver
Yes, that should be good and keeping your quench height small reduces detonation. I'm using the 0.051" compressed gaskets that can be seen in this video. th-cam.com/video/DX61wAVPkxA/w-d-xo.html ...Oliver
![Don't Skip This CRUCIAL Engine Check! | Piston Deck Height [#TECHTALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rOBjzxAYNc8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Don't Skip This CRUCIAL Engine Check! | Piston Deck Height [#TECHTALK]](/img/tr.png)
![50HP To 5000HP | Choosing Your Head Gasket | SCE Gaskets [TECH TALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tcMF7DuugEI/mqdefault.jpg)
good info, my pistons are .006 above deck (347 sbf) my engine builder said a .047 compressed Fel Pro gasket will be ok, so I should end up with .041 piston to cylinder head clearance. This is with a 2618 forged Wiseco flat top and Scat forged I beam rods.
Yes, you're clearances are good and the gasket thickness you're using is very similar to what I'm using (0.051" compressed ) so you should be fine and have a successful build. Glad the video helped and thanks for watching ......Oliver
@@BooostedLS Thanks!
great video. i'm doing a rebuild after a timing belt snapped and wanted to check if i might need the same or thicker gasket. i have no warping on the head and the face just needs to clean up but still i wanna make sure it's all good in there. is the 0.040" piston to head clearance applicable to all car ices?
Shouldn't you be measuring from the wrist pin direction?
Yes I measured piston rock in the wrist pin direction. I got 0.015 to 0.020 so we'll still have enough piston to cylinder head clearance using our 0.051" compressed mls head gaskets. You can see confirmation of this at this video link
th-cam.com/video/DX61wAVPkxA/w-d-xo.html ....Thanks for watching and commenting.....Oliver
What was you think putting that music on can hardly hear you talk.
your deaf then i heard every word he said
@@patrickwilliams9611 Go and get your booster bitch.
Great video, I have a b18c1 Honda engine I’m rebuilding, the head I bought has been resurfaced about .017” from the spec for a new head by the previous owner. I believe the stock headgasket is .03”. Do I just add that difference to my stock headgasket thickness and buy a gasket that size or as close as possible (.045”)?
You can use which ever gasket you have as 0.017 removed from the head was just to ensure the head surface is flat, and will create a good seal. You'll get a slight increase in compression and better quench, which both add to better performance. Only time you have to get a thicker gasket is if you need a lower compression ratio and if there are piston to valve clearance issues. Thanks for watching and commenting....
@@BooostedLS I just figure because the manual says that .008” is the max that can be removed so I figured I should make up that loss of material with the headgasket
I have a Honda k20 engine. I have 1mm oversized dished valves on the intake and I have stock size flat faced valves on exhaust side. Is this a good set up?
Sure, as long as you have 0.100" valve to piston clearance when the piston is at top dead center and the valves are fully open. Put some plasticine on top of the piston then carefully rotate engine . Then measure the depth of the plasticine after you've rotated the engine through a couple of cycles. Go slow as if there is interference you'll feel it right away if something is not correct. If everything checks out you'll be good to go.....Oliver
What is the part number of the 70 thousandths quench head gaskets
www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5751-070/make/chevrolet I believe this is the gasket you're looking for. Thanks for watching and commenting....Oliver
Sir how much will be the bumping clearance between head valve and piston top.
More then enough in this case. As you can see these pistons have a big dish and valve reliefs cut into the piston tops, as they are designed for boost. Using a cam with only 0.585" lift for both intake and exhaust there is no chance for piston to valve collision. If it was a complete flat top piston and a much bigger cam I would have checked with plasticine . The minimum clearance for this would be about 0.050". Thanks for commenting and watching....Oliver
You didn't rock the pistons at TDC to get the max down max up average, this is done to account for the taper in the top side of the piston and the PTW clearance. Increasing the gasket thickness is an obsolete and dead wrong practice in engine building, matter of fact running a higher CR is better than running lower CR with thicker head gasket it's melts down the piston quench and how effective the homogenous air vortex created by the piston in the compression stroke
Actually I did rock the pistons back and forth at TDC. I just didn't include that in the scenes which I should have....thanks for commenting....Oliver
How you are going to use a 4.060 bore gasket in 4.030 bore engine ?
The gasket bore is bigger (4.060 ) then our cylinder bore which is (4.030 ). So this will be fine as long as the gasket does not protrude into the cylinder bore creating interference for the pistons, that actually go above the deck in my case. You can see the first successful drive at this link here. th-cam.com/video/PfrtuPXEY_U/w-d-xo.html Thanks for commenting and watching....Oliver
@@BooostedLS congratulations im really happy to see that beast running
Thank you. It feels good to finally get the project going and seems like everything is working as it should going around the block a couple of times. I'll definitely be putting the car through more tests, and documenting that whole process. Thanks again for your input and watching. I'll be posting some more video's shortly.....Oliver
Thank you for the info and maybe you can help me out. I'm using the same exact setup as yours in terms of rotating assembly. However, I'm measuring .015" piston above deck surface. The ls block I bought is advertised to be 9.240 but there is no way that can be.
9.240 they claim -4 /2 + 6.125 = 1.115.
My boost piston CH is 1.110 - 1.115 is -.005" but I'm protruding .015". Does this mean my block has been decked to 9.225"?
It's a summit pro ls forged rotating assembly with 4" stroke, 4" bore, and a 1.110 ch.
Hello Jose. Thanks for watching and commenting. It is possible that your block deck is now 9.225. Rod at my machine shop said he only machined 0.005 of each of my decks to get it square and flat. As you can see when I measured the decks on the other holes there was slight variation as to how much the pistons were above deck. I'm thinking that from the factory the blocks may not be exactly at 9.240" as advertised. this is most likely because there is an acceptable tolerance of plus or minus0.010" to 0.005" or greater . Also the pistons compression height might not be exact either as the technician machining the pistons may have had his measuring tools or measurements not exactly correct, and therefore didn't enter the proper off-sets in his CNC lathe as they were being finish machined.. It could also be the crankshaft is giving you a little more stroke 4.005 vs 4.000 as this is also a machined component and may not be exact. The connecting rods center to center distance could be another potential point of discrepancy as they also might not be as advertised. So the point here is, it can be any number of factors in the manufacturing of all these components as to why your numbers are not as expected. I would not worry too much. As long as there are no collisions between piston and the cylinder head you should be good in terms of your rotating assembly. Good luck with your build and let me know how it all works out for you and again thanks for watching and your input....Oliver
@@Six_ftdeep32 That is a nice rotating assembly which I was also going to buy. I went with the rotating assembly from LSXeceleration because theirs was balanced as it shipped to me. I thought I could get my project back on the road last season so I went for that one, as I thought it would be quicker. here we are heading into the new season and if all goes well the car should be ready this time around...lol...Oliver
@@BooostedLS thanks for commenting back. I'm going to use a .055" compressed gasket to be safe. Do you think that'll be enough?
Yes, that should be good and keeping your quench height small reduces detonation. I'm using the 0.051" compressed gaskets that can be seen in this video. th-cam.com/video/DX61wAVPkxA/w-d-xo.html ...Oliver