✅ Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy120 ✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery120 00:00 - Intro 00:10 - What is piston deck height? 00:45 - Buying Pistons 01:02 - Machining your block 02:26 - Dealing with a piston crown sitting out of the block 03:34 - Deck Bridge Tool 05:20 - What you’re measuring 05:50 - Don’t forget the head gasket! 06:31 - Outro
Thanks Andre for pointing out one of the most overlook measurements you should do when building a engine .I have seen gains on the dyno with reduced squish, maintaining the same compensation ratio
@@brandonlittle6444 Thats the very reason clearance is there. In a perfect world with no piston growth, rock and rod stretch, you would test to see the ideal squish depth and leave it at that. 40thou is a safe head and valve to piston clearance on a typical 86mm stroke unit revving below 10,000 rpm, with reasonable off the shelf components.
I've shaved the block on a couple of engines, to deliberately make the piston stick up a little, to get the right squish area gap. That's done when I can't get a head gasket that's thin enough.
He was already up to 40thou gasket with 20thou over on the piston height + with the block decked multiple times. (Measure from crank centre to standard deck centre line!) Whilst trying to retain reliability at keeping 40thou overall, 60thou worth of gasket only IMO is looking for blow out after torque is down at squish....
@@Spudstrodamus Correct... Reliability for every motor/compressor build. Whether street or race application. No builder wants to pull motor after motor out due to wrong or ignored measurements....professional or home mechanic, it cost too much money & finite time.
Thank you so much for all of the information. I really appreciate it as this will help me in getting closer to building my own engines thus helping me achieve my drifting and racing goals. Thanks again🙏🏻
Many thanks, and thanks for the live show last week. I am building a Mercedes 6.0 litres M119. Looks like I will have .70 mm protrusion, from my maths. Assuming 1.70 mm head gasket, and making sure the head gasket has clearance from the bore, will that be except able? Also what’s the tolerance across all cylinders on deck height? I would imagine the evenness is more important than the protrusion it’s self, once it’s with in spec ?
If you want to get really fussy, the gauge should be zeroed on a granite surface plate. Of course, the utility of such a thing isn't justifiable unless you've got a more precise indicator, that reads out to .0001, and the deck has been ground by the machine shop.
Hi, will you be covering squish/quench clearances? Curious to know what others have run and if possible to go for tighter. Managed 0.8 on 3sgte and didn't have the guts to go tighter.
He did when he said .040" minimum at the end. He covered gasket thickness minus deck clearance. That's quench. He says .040" minimum as in .045" is safer. I dont know a builder in the world that would send .080" out the door unless forced by a customer.. 040" is a standard on steel rod setups. .033" and tighter is where most people will say is too much on street engines.
Amazing information as usual !! Can you clarify the connection between this measurement and the thickness of the head gasket in connection with the to the compression ratio. -Thank you
Yes that's an option and something Andre has done, but it's not our single or necessarily best goto solution if we do find our piston is protruding. PS: Hope you're keeping well Simon, haven't seen you around for a while 😎 - Taz.
@@hpa101 Hi mate, thanks for the reply !!! Yeah i have been around, just life not going my way for a while..........lol. All good though and going to hit the track again very soon in the Juno. I have also been working with Mr Paul Stokell now in a lot of track day stuff, so that has kept me busy. One of the reasons I mention conrods for resizing is that when we build an engine and use ARP rod bolts, the rod goes out of round in many circumstances, so when doing an ARP kit I have learnt to check for resizing. I do understand that you have to get them round again, but milling the top of the rod cap face at the same time and then re-rounding the rod for the correct bearing is a way I used to get my deck heights in my V8 days right. We also were limited back then with the amount of aftermarket parts that are available today. I have not done a rebuild for many years, but learnt in the late 90's through a good drag car mate of mine when we were doing drag racing. Good channel mate, keep up the great content.
@@bernardwarr4187 there don’t have exact number because,depends of the block material because all alloyblock not produce as same material , but generally (0.005,0.010) between these numbers .
I got a question how it's the maximum quench for a b18b block my engine looks low after a friend built it for me I want to buy a tool and check before it's to late
Ever seen a piston???? all pistons are different. Some are DISHED….which means the center is way shallower than the outer edges…..some have DOMES, which are just that a big high dome that’s taller than the rest of the piston.
Cheaper is not the goal. That engine could be 10k build and the pocket change it takes to machine them properly shouldn't be a factor. There would also be some stretch to factor in.
Someone said that much extra gasket would make it too thick and more prone to a blow out. Don't know if it's true just repeating. I asked the same question why not just a thicker gasket
✅ Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy120
✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery120
00:00 - Intro
00:10 - What is piston deck height?
00:45 - Buying Pistons
01:02 - Machining your block
02:26 - Dealing with a piston crown sitting out of the block
03:34 - Deck Bridge Tool
05:20 - What you’re measuring
05:50 - Don’t forget the head gasket!
06:31 - Outro
Let's not forget quench/squish. If anythings ignored it's this and 'burning' fuel efficiently is the point. Is it not?
Dick Bridge?😳 thanks Andre...i now have a new name for chicks to call me😅 HPA for the win!💪
Michael Mcintyr has a whole comedy bit on this. Aussie hotel had a deck on the sixth floor... massive innuendos ensued.
@@LogicalQ I'm in the U.S. and haven't seen it...i must look it up now😅
I like when aussies brag about their deck...
While watching this my wife asked me wtf I was watching and what the hell is a di ck bridge. Good stuff mate. Cheers.
Thanks Andre for pointing out one of the most overlook measurements you should do when building a engine .I have seen gains on the dyno with reduced squish, maintaining the same compensation ratio
Some bell end somewhare in this world gave this a thumbs down. What planet are they from? The information here was real world cock on.
@@brandonlittle6444 Thats the very reason clearance is there. In a perfect world with no piston growth, rock and rod stretch, you would test to see the ideal squish depth and leave it at that. 40thou is a safe head and valve to piston clearance on a typical 86mm stroke unit revving below 10,000 rpm, with reasonable off the shelf components.
I've shaved the block on a couple of engines, to deliberately make the piston stick up a little, to get the right squish area gap. That's done when I can't get a head gasket that's thin enough.
This guy is an amazing teacher. Even if you came in with zero clue, the way he explains things will put you on the right track.
Why take off .0020 from the piston and not get a .0020 thicker gasket. Or is the gasket not available in that thickness?
He was already up to 40thou gasket with 20thou over on the piston height + with the block decked multiple times. (Measure from crank centre to standard deck centre line!)
Whilst trying to retain reliability at keeping 40thou overall, 60thou worth of gasket only IMO is looking for blow out after torque is down at squish....
@@oztracker so basically the thicker gasket is not an option. Too thick won't hold the cylinder pressure they are planning on running
@@Spudstrodamus
Correct...
Reliability for every motor/compressor build.
Whether street or race application.
No builder wants to pull motor after motor out due to wrong or ignored measurements....professional or home mechanic, it cost too much money & finite time.
Also, if the intake is port matched to the heads with .040 gaskets being the norm, you may alter your runner lineup.
Thank you so much for all of the information. I really appreciate it as this will help me in getting closer to building my own engines thus helping me achieve my drifting and racing goals. Thanks again🙏🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Many thanks, and thanks for the live show last week. I am building a Mercedes 6.0 litres M119. Looks like I will have .70 mm protrusion, from my maths. Assuming 1.70 mm head gasket, and making sure the head gasket has clearance from the bore, will that be except able? Also what’s the tolerance across all cylinders on deck height? I would imagine the evenness is more important than the protrusion it’s self, once it’s with in spec ?
If you want to get really fussy, the gauge should be zeroed on a granite surface plate. Of course, the utility of such a thing isn't justifiable unless you've got a more precise indicator, that reads out to .0001, and the deck has been ground by the machine shop.
THE WHAT HEIGHT??
lmao looking for this
DICK....there I said it
Couldn’t you just use a thicker head gasket instead of decking the piston?
Compression will change alot compared to just taking off abit of material
I had a lot of boring stands made up a lot of them were custom made and ground flat and hardended.
ohhhhh talk about the steam hole slot you cut in the block!
Always did that to my motors and motor cycles all Harleys.
Hi, will you be covering squish/quench clearances? Curious to know what others have run and if possible to go for tighter. Managed 0.8 on 3sgte and didn't have the guts to go tighter.
He did when he said .040" minimum at the end. He covered gasket thickness minus deck clearance. That's quench. He says .040" minimum as in .045" is safer. I dont know a builder in the world that would send .080" out the door unless forced by a customer.. 040" is a standard on steel rod setups. .033" and tighter is where most people will say is too much on street engines.
How much piston can you remove before you're messing with the engineering or integrity?
Amazing information as usual !!
Can you clarify the connection between this measurement and the thickness of the head gasket in connection with the to the compression ratio.
-Thank you
You will need to calculate the volume of the head gasket and include this in your combustion chamber, assuming zero piston protrusion
Why not just resize the conrods? I have done this plenty of times with success.
Yes that's an option and something Andre has done, but it's not our single or necessarily best goto solution if we do find our piston is protruding.
PS: Hope you're keeping well Simon, haven't seen you around for a while 😎 - Taz.
@@hpa101 Hi mate, thanks for the reply !!! Yeah i have been around, just life not going my way for a while..........lol. All good though and going to hit the track again very soon in the Juno. I have also been working with Mr Paul Stokell now in a lot of track day stuff, so that has kept me busy.
One of the reasons I mention conrods for resizing is that when we build an engine and use ARP rod bolts, the rod goes out of round in many circumstances, so when doing an ARP kit I have learnt to check for resizing.
I do understand that you have to get them round again, but milling the top of the rod cap face at the same time and then re-rounding the rod for the correct bearing is a way I used to get my deck heights in my V8 days right. We also were limited back then with the amount of aftermarket parts that are available today.
I have not done a rebuild for many years, but learnt in the late 90's through a good drag car mate of mine when we were doing drag racing.
Good channel mate, keep up the great content.
I call it sweeping the pistons!
Nice info’s ,conrod bearing clearence also effect the tdc and aluminium block extent small amounts when it’s reach the operating temperature .
Good point! How much would an alloy block extend?
@@bernardwarr4187 there don’t have exact number because,depends of the block material because all alloyblock not produce as same material , but generally (0.005,0.010) between these numbers .
I got a question how it's the maximum quench for a b18b block my engine looks low after a friend built it for me I want to buy a tool and check before it's to late
Removing material from The crown oF The piston ?? 🤨
Next weeks Video then will cover measuring the cr?
Thanks!
I don’t think I’ve heard anyone say “dick” so many times here on TH-cam haha! Good info thanks!
If you have never seen these, you're going to love them I reckon 😂 - Taz.
th-cam.com/video/tbazGVrbN-g/w-d-xo.html
Why is it measured on the edges and not the center where the piston is higher? Isn’t that where it would hit the head possibly?
Ever seen a piston???? all pistons are different. Some are DISHED….which means the center is way shallower than the outer edges…..some have DOMES, which are just that a big high dome that’s taller than the rest of the piston.
should i skim the pistons or get 0.5mm thicker gasket?
For clearance? A thicker gasket is generally the go-to, it comes with a few other considerations - Taz.
th-cam.com/video/28-FB3kyEDk/w-d-xo.html
Good information
Cheaper just to get a thicker head gasket?
Cheaper is not the goal. That engine could be 10k build and the pocket change it takes to machine them properly shouldn't be a factor. There would also be some stretch to factor in.
Someone said that much extra gasket would make it too thick and more prone to a blow out. Don't know if it's true just repeating. I asked the same question why not just a thicker gasket
👌
Who would you recommend for tuning a honda k series?
CJ is the best tuner I know