great update john i can barely wire a three-pin plug never mined what you do i would probably short out the national grid enjoy the rest of the weekend all the best al 👍👍👍👍
Layton Junction oh Al, of course you could, plug is easy BLue BL BOTTOM LEFT, BRown BR BOTTOM RIGHT. Green yellow to top. See simples lol. You can do anything you put your mind to...
great video. track laying can get frustrating in n i find... i often wish i had got o gauge or just used kato n gauge track. worth the effort though once track is painted and ballasted and looks good.
Rob McCrain Hi Rob, yes most definitely and fully agree. This was only while I’m using it, curving flexi track often requires many pins to support it in place till the glue takes hold.
I understand why you added a polarity switch but wouldn't that only be needed for a DC application? Since you use DCC why didn't you just use a reversing loop decoder? It would switch the polarity automatically as I'm sure you already know... also, with the lift segment of the video would it be impossible to just add a 2nd lift bridge under the original you currently have built? Then you can constantly run trains top an bottom simultaneously...
Thomas Inzana Hi Thomas, thank you for taking the time to ask this question. Its a cost thing, the DBDT switches cost £2 each the electronic versions considerably more. Since my very elderly mother passed away Ive been left in a difficult situation and need to be very careful. Besides its hardly a chore. The lift has to be a manual switch so its not hard pressing couple of buttons. The other part is that whilst the lift is moving I dont want trains randomly start moving. Hence killing the power on the lift. Hope that helps...
Hi John Im new to nguage and am watching your building with great interest which has inspired me to have ago. So I have bought code 55 and some streamline electro frogs but what I am finding it difficult to learn is the best way to wire the points. theres lots of info for OO electro frogs and how to modify them but very little on N guage. just wondering if you can "point" me in the right direction. thanks Alan
Hi Alan thank you for your kind words and I’m so glad you have enjoyed the videos. My experience is with code 80. Code 55 points will work straight out of the box whether Dc or DCC. However, for DCC powered frogs the principle I’m sure would be the same as for OO. - You will need plastic fishplates on the two sides of the frog VERY IMPORTANT! - attach droppers directly to the point rails to ensure conductivity. - In the same way as OO you will need to solder in a wires underneath to connect the stock rail to the switch blades (static parts) you may need to cut the plastic webbing between sleepers to do this. - solder a wire from the frog dropper wire which I belief IS included on code 55. - the last past is to make sure the frog is NOT electrically joined to the switch rails. This is where I’m not so sure about the code 55, but if there are wires that join them they will need to be removed. I’m not referring to tiny wires across a gap in the track like in OO, rather the slightly longer wires which upto the frog, I normally pull them out, being careful not to break the frog wire. Hope that makes sense. If you are not sure in any way after this I strongly suggest you seek further advice, it is hard to explain in words alone. You could even get someone to wire them on your behalf. Hope that’s helpful.
Hello, although I’m lost once in a while during your videos ( my fault, not yours ) I do enjoy them. I am glad that you know what you’re doing. So carry on, carrying on! See ya next time.
Norman Rowe thanks Norman, I have done these thing just once or twice before lol, although I never profess to know everything I don’t, but I will find out what I need to know and then test the theory. Glad you enjoy the content!
Hi John very interesting update and as normal very well explained. We all have different ways of doing things but I think we can all learn something new Enjoy the show your going to and try not to spend to much money. Colin
Collins N Gauge Exactly, no one way is king, I get a lot of comments from newbies, as I’m sure you do, so I do it to help more than anything else, but we can each learn from each other. When I finally get around to block detection I might pick your brains. That’s a long way off though.
Hi John yeh never thought about a long train, but at least it looks great would have loved to get to The great Railway exhib but going to a more local one in November in Darwen, just up the road from me..John M
John Marshall Thanks John, I sm so grateful to Chris as he has potentially stopped a disaster. Yes it is a shame you cannot make it to GETS. One day maybe. Milton Keynes is fairly local to me.
I was going to go and asked an old school friend who lives in Esssex but was unable so with train fare etc etc can spend the cash on MRailway so as I live in Edgworth the Darwen is just up the Roman Road from me...John M
Hi John.. hope you are well. Apologies for this text... as not directly connected to the above ( excellent) video. Can you tell me where I can find your video on wiring an insulfrog point for DCC? I remember you soldered the stock and closure rails and spoke about using a juicer across the frog. Can you tell me what make of juicer you normally fit. I’m about to embark on this .. so any info appreciated. Is a juicer different to say a Peco polarity switch. Still climbing the learning ladder 😄...As I’ve said before all your video’s are brilliant... you’ve certainly saved me a few bob looking on how and what you do. Excellent stuff John.. Colin
I used a gaugemaster DCC80, single or triple packs latter around £20 ish. The main point is you must isolate the frog from the rest of the point so check if there are gaps in the inner rails, if not disconnect the wires underneath connecting the main body to the frog. Then connect the stock rails to the inner closure rails by soldering a wire across. Left to left right to right. Ive found this from dean park. Hope thats helpful. th-cam.com/video/Et3vuedbZ98/w-d-xo.html
My thanks John ... Reading between the lines ( pun.. sorry)... am I correct thinking you are in the teaching profession? If so please accept my apologies for contacting you regarding my questions... as I know from experience ( family) how tiring the first few weeks back at a new term is! I’ve only just picked this from what you’ve said in your videos! You’re always so prompt in replying to everyone’s questions ...for me if I need to pick your brains ( if you don’t mind) I’ll leave it to weekends. Never a rush for me..I’m still laying track!🥴.. but thank you again John for your replies.. always appreciated.. Colin
Looks good. You are right to turn the power off if you aren't going to see it there is no need to take any chances of damaging a train. Thanks for sharing....Jack
Medway Peninsula Model Railway Yes definitely Kev. There is a meet up at the Hornby stand at 1pm. If you see me please do say hello, be nice to meet you. Please forgive me I’m not sure what you look like. I will try to make a badge using my logo.
Excellent I might go for the badge also , and you will be able to spot me as I will be the chap looking star struck being surrounded by the famous TH-camrs !!!!
Medway Peninsula Model Railway lol, I know what you mean. First time I met Richard from Everard Junc its was almost like meeting model railway royalty. Hes a lovely guy with a common interest just like you and me.
Mounting the switches well done and we are moving forward bit by bit and great tips on track laying and joining ..........await your next video ...cheers Paul
Some nice tips on track laying John, to get the joints in line on a curved section. Joining flexi track on the curve sometimes can't be avoided and by gently tweaking the rail to form the curve with a pair of pliers is the best way to go about it. It's the way I do it also, although in 00 gauge in my case. Good update and will catch you again on the next one. Enjoy the show, I believe all the TH-camrs are meeting up together at some point, but unfortunately, I can't make it. Cheers Geoff
TRAM JUCTION MODEL RAILWAY thanks Geoff, I do try to avoid curved joins, but as you say sometimes it cannot be always. Yes a fair few of us meeting tomorrow, inc Graham, hopefully meet you at another time.
Great work......
great update john i can barely wire a three-pin plug never mined what you do i would probably short out the national grid enjoy the rest of the weekend all the best al 👍👍👍👍
Layton Junction oh Al, of course you could, plug is easy BLue BL BOTTOM LEFT, BRown BR BOTTOM RIGHT. Green yellow to top. See simples lol. You can do anything you put your mind to...
great video. track laying can get frustrating in n i find... i often wish i had got o gauge or just used kato n gauge track. worth the effort though once track is painted and ballasted and looks good.
Tim's Train Videos I agree Tim, the smallest of it kinda of highlights the detail. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment
I like to take the drill bit out and put it back in the index. Good update.
Rob McCrain Hi Rob, yes most definitely and fully agree. This was only while I’m using it, curving flexi track often requires many pins to support it in place till the glue takes hold.
I understand why you added a polarity switch but wouldn't that only be needed for a DC application? Since you use DCC why didn't you just use a reversing loop decoder? It would switch the polarity automatically as I'm sure you already know... also, with the lift segment of the video would it be impossible to just add a 2nd lift bridge under the original you currently have built? Then you can constantly run trains top an bottom simultaneously...
Thomas Inzana Hi Thomas, thank you for taking the time to ask this question.
Its a cost thing, the DBDT switches cost £2 each the electronic versions considerably more.
Since my very elderly mother passed away Ive been left in a difficult situation and need to be very careful. Besides its hardly a chore. The lift has to be a manual switch so its not hard pressing couple of buttons.
The other part is that whilst the lift is moving I dont want trains randomly start moving. Hence killing the power on the lift.
Hope that helps...
Hi John Im new to nguage and am watching your building with great interest which has inspired me to have ago. So I have bought code 55 and some streamline electro frogs but what I am finding it difficult to learn is the best way to wire the points. theres lots of info for OO electro frogs and how to modify them but very little on N guage. just wondering if you can "point" me in the right direction.
thanks
Alan
Hi Alan thank you for your kind words and I’m so glad you have enjoyed the videos.
My experience is with code 80. Code 55 points will work straight out of the box whether Dc or DCC. However, for DCC powered frogs the principle I’m sure would be the same as for OO.
- You will need plastic fishplates on the two sides of the frog VERY IMPORTANT!
- attach droppers directly to the point rails to ensure conductivity.
- In the same way as OO you will need to solder in a wires underneath to connect the stock rail to the switch blades (static parts) you may need to cut the plastic webbing between sleepers to do this.
- solder a wire from the frog dropper wire which I belief IS included on code 55.
- the last past is to make sure the frog is NOT electrically joined to the switch rails. This is where I’m not so sure about the code 55, but if there are wires that join them they will need to be removed. I’m not referring to tiny wires across a gap in the track like in OO, rather the slightly longer wires which upto the frog, I normally pull them out, being careful not to break the frog wire. Hope that makes sense.
If you are not sure in any way after this I strongly suggest you seek further advice, it is hard to explain in words alone. You could even get someone to wire them on your behalf.
Hope that’s helpful.
Great update John!!! Cheers Onno.
Hello, although I’m lost once in a while during your videos ( my fault, not yours ) I do enjoy them. I am glad that you know what you’re doing. So carry on, carrying on! See ya next time.
Norman Rowe thanks Norman, I have done these thing just once or twice before lol, although I never profess to know everything I don’t, but I will find out what I need to know and then test the theory. Glad you enjoy the content!
Hi John very interesting update and as normal very well explained. We all have different ways of doing things but I think we can all learn something new Enjoy the show your going to and try not to spend to much money. Colin
Collins N Gauge Exactly, no one way is king, I get a lot of comments from newbies, as I’m sure you do, so I do it to help more than anything else, but we can each learn from each other. When I finally get around to block detection I might pick your brains. That’s a long way off though.
@@piccadillymodelrailways If I can help it would be a pleasure
Hi John yeh never thought about a long train, but at least it looks great would have loved to get to The great Railway exhib but going to a more local one in November in Darwen, just up the road from me..John M
John Marshall Thanks John, I sm so grateful to Chris as he has potentially stopped a disaster.
Yes it is a shame you cannot make it to GETS. One day maybe. Milton Keynes is fairly local to me.
I was going to go and asked an old school friend who lives in Esssex but was unable so with train fare etc etc can spend the cash on MRailway so as I live in Edgworth the Darwen is just up the Roman Road from me...John M
Hi John.. hope you are well. Apologies for this text... as not directly connected to the above ( excellent) video.
Can you tell me where I can find your video on wiring an insulfrog point for DCC? I remember you soldered the stock and closure rails and spoke about using a juicer across the frog. Can you tell me what make of juicer you normally fit. I’m about to embark on this .. so any info appreciated. Is a juicer different to say a Peco polarity switch. Still climbing the learning ladder 😄...As I’ve said before all your video’s are brilliant... you’ve certainly saved me a few bob looking on how and what you do. Excellent stuff John.. Colin
I used a gaugemaster DCC80, single or triple packs latter around £20 ish.
The main point is you must isolate the frog from the rest of the point so check if there are gaps in the inner rails, if not disconnect the wires underneath connecting the main body to the frog. Then connect the stock rails to the inner closure rails by soldering a wire across. Left to left right to right.
Ive found this from dean park. Hope thats helpful.
th-cam.com/video/Et3vuedbZ98/w-d-xo.html
My thanks John ... Reading between the lines ( pun.. sorry)... am I correct thinking you are in the teaching profession? If so please accept my apologies for contacting you regarding my questions... as I know from experience ( family) how tiring the first few weeks back at a new term is! I’ve only just picked this from what you’ve said in your videos! You’re always so prompt in replying to everyone’s questions ...for me if I need to pick your brains ( if you don’t mind) I’ll leave it to weekends. Never a rush for me..I’m still laying track!🥴.. but thank you again John for your replies.. always appreciated.. Colin
Worry not Colin, I will always do my best to help and support fellow modellers.
Looks good. You are right to turn the power off if you aren't going to see it there is no need to take any chances of damaging a train. Thanks for sharing....Jack
J Olliemark yes definitely Jack, I cant keep my eyes on all the trains at the same time. Thank you for taking the time to comment.
@@piccadillymodelrailways your explanation of putting in the turnout made a lot of sence too....thanks
thanks John best teacher on youtube
James Martin Ahhh thanks, do feel free to spread the word...
Nice update
The Growler - Blackwood N Gauge Layout thanks Euan,
Hi John I notice you are going to GETS I am up on Saturday and will say hello if you are too - Cheers Kev
Medway Peninsula Model Railway Yes definitely Kev. There is a meet up at the Hornby stand at 1pm. If you see me please do say hello, be nice to meet you. Please forgive me I’m not sure what you look like. I will try to make a badge using my logo.
Excellent I might go for the badge also , and you will be able to spot me as I will be the chap looking star struck being surrounded by the famous TH-camrs !!!!
Medway Peninsula Model Railway lol, I know what you mean. First time I met Richard from Everard Junc its was almost like meeting model railway royalty. Hes a lovely guy with a common interest just like you and me.
Mounting the switches well done and we are moving forward bit by bit and great tips on track laying and joining ..........await your next video ...cheers Paul
PAUL POWER thanks Paul, hopefully return to scenics after this, yay.
Some nice tips on track laying John, to get the joints in line on a curved section. Joining flexi track on the curve sometimes can't be avoided and by gently tweaking the rail to form the curve with a pair of pliers is the best way to go about it. It's the way I do it also, although in 00 gauge in my case. Good update and will catch you again on the next one. Enjoy the show, I believe all the TH-camrs are meeting up together at some point, but unfortunately, I can't make it.
Cheers
Geoff
TRAM JUCTION MODEL RAILWAY thanks Geoff, I do try to avoid curved joins, but as you say sometimes it cannot be always.
Yes a fair few of us meeting tomorrow, inc Graham, hopefully meet you at another time.
Excellent stuff John, the way the micro switches are engaged is fantastic.
Alex Hill I just glad it works lol.