Repairing door frames at the Big Build episode 46
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- We are Busy repairing door frames/linings at the big build, in this video I demonstrate making a simple jig that makes the job easy, this job can be done by hand, multitool or by router for speed and accuracy
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What a terrific video this is Robin; full of excellent information and guidance walking people through the process. Cheers.
After noon
Was Half expecting the saw Blade to kick back on the board when you’re cutting through it to make the template used to do a lot of splicing in the 70s windowsills mainly on the old Robbie pubs here in Manchester when we could be a chippy one week and a plumber the next week,no cards in them days. Tools were good saw and the tenant saw which I’ve still got and a good set of chisels and a mallet and the old scriber.
Nice too see a professional at work you and mr tall lad 👍👍👍👍
"I've been doing it for years and I'm fine" = Complacency = Injury.
These guys who use a table-saw for every single task are a liability.
It's great to see craftsmanship. Thank you for the video.
Excellent Demo from start to finish, thanks Robin. Love your content
Really appreciate all your videos Robin. Kept this one saved for a while as I knew I would have to do this at some point. Just done my first door lining repair and it’s gone very well thanks to you.
Excellent!
As a DIYer, I find it deeply unsatisfying to have the old hinge cut-outs there but I’m not up for replacing the frame just yet - this is a nice approach. Thanks for the video, those techniques are useful in tonnes of other places. Kudos to you for endorsing ear protection, not only does the noise damage your hearing, I just find it *exhausting* and you want to be as fresh as you can when working with sharp stabby things.
Those door frames revealed a lot of history. Router with a template! Hard to beat. I wound up making my templates from 1/2” MDF strips glued up around the piece to be inset (wood floor heat registers). Took a bit longer to make. Guaranteed a precise fit.
Very nice stuff, legend 👌
Love it, super detailed really appreciate the step by step guide, more content like this please :)
Thank you for showing how to make this job as simple as possible. Great work 👏
You are so clever - such economy of time & motion. Brilliant!
Thanks so much! 😊
@@ukconstruction You're a National Treasure, sir - just can't understand how I never found you sooner!!
You are in my mind, a representation of "work smart".
Outstanding Robin, this is extremely helpful. I have 3 door frames that are cracked at the hinge positions and this seems like the way to go to fix them. Thanks!
Always nice to see excellent craftsmanship providing useful info tips and tricks
Thank you very much!
Nice and clear explanations of a few ways to do the job. Great to see
Great job Robin, I remember them days scarfing pieces in old door linings back when I was a young apprentice in victoriana houses in South London..
I like the idea of putting a taper on the splice so it’s super tight when clamped. 👍
Surprised you don’t dowel the old screw holes in the hinge cutouts before covering, just in case of overlapping with new screws.
I will put that in the knowledge bank, very nice work. Love the old story 🙉👏
Great to see the different methods to achieve the same result.
perfection and efficient as usual pleasure to watch
Another great job. Thanks for showing the different techniques.
I know what you mean about the wood. Some of the new stuff is really gnarly and is often a problem to get a decent cut even with the sharpest of chisels.
Loved a bit of splicing…back in the day ..
lovely job rob .. 👍🏼
You are very right about dust. I was a woodworker and found I was covered dust, even my car interior had it. Always wore a mask but no extraction for sanding and routing jobs in those days. Had to give up work as I feared what was going to happen to me. Oak is the worst, real killer. Look up High Wycombe , centre of furniture making trade once, and had a lung disease named after it.
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Best Video!
Totally absorbing and interesting on many fronts - always enjoy watching craftsmen that care about what they do - excellent videos all round
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Robin your customers are do lucky yo have you working in there house. Do your customers know how good you are meaning have they watched your videos and that's why they have booked you in. Brilliant workmanship
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Excellent demonstration and explanations 👍
Please please can you do a quick video to show how you fit the 3mm softwood strip you mentioned at 02:05 for plastering up to. I have retained linings in need of the exact repairs you’ve shown and the re-plastering has been a worry - your advice is priceless, huge thanks!
Just what l was looking for
What a great watch. Hugely helpful 👍🏻
Glad you liked it
Top class carpentry!
There's a guy coming to fit two new doors to our house so I'm going to watch this with interest
Back in the olden days Norm used to call these Dutchmen 👍
Another great video. So easy with a palm router or a multi tool and of corse a template.
Absolutely!
Well done Robin super video
Hi robin good knowledge as always. Just a thought, you could make infil pieces that are cut to work with your hinge jigs and sell them in packs to keep handy in the van. That way if you have stuff like this you can fire them in without having to do the corners and if you made a mistake on one then you'd already have the piece to fix it. Anyway not sure how economical that would be but I can see it being a time saver.
Great video Guys........thanks !!!
I’m not trying to be rude but when I was taught this in college it was called a dovetail patch and was the other way round into the frame which locked the timber in place and stopping it from splitting . Good job though and a great alternative to just filling it with filler 👌😉
That's excellent work ,save a lot of hassle of ripping out frames and all the mess that goes with it ,can't believe some people moaning about the way you done it
Another great video. One issue though, does the mitre on on the patch need to be the other way around to help key it into the frame?
Brilliant video just what I’ve been looking for! My house is all the better for your tips and tricks! Keep the videos coming!
Hi Robin, Have patched up doors like this before but had never thought of fitting them with a taper. Very clever and looks a lot handier for clamping. Will be using this next time. Thanks mate
Taking the riving knife off to make a template and winding the blade up. We’ve all done it. Don’t forget though it can also be a useful thing to do if you’ve had enough of playing the guitar or your not keen on having kids.
Nice job, I fix these with multitool, car filler and palm sander usually invisible and very fast.
Love ur work 👍👍👍
Thank you so much 😀
I do a lot of these types of patches as well, and all I have to say is : instead of Titebond, use Mitre Bond or TP10 [same thing]. A few blobs of glue, stick the dutchman in place, give it a spray of activator, and you can work the patch in about 30 seconds.
Yes great tip!!
Nice one Robin. Seen this done before but a square version which was called a "dutchman" on another channel.
Nice work rob and Al
Bootifal 👍
I cut this in opposite side ! Short side to be faced outside .Cutting straight away with router and finish the internal corners with chisel . Later just banging the patch in with glue and in this case the patch will self locked
When I was taught how to splice at college we had the 45 degree angles the other way around so they wouldn't pull out!
I doubt you'll pull them out when glued and with a fixing screwed through it!
The way it's cut in allows for slight inaccuracies in either the cut out or the piece going in. If it's ever so short you just shave a tiny bit off the bottom of the infil piece and it will go in further giving a tighter joint, cut your 45°s the other way and your infil pieces will have to be cut extremely accurately with absolutely zero room for error....it's fine if you have the time but realistically it's not viable
@@greenreaper1985 - I was about to write the same, beat me to it 😉
Be nice to cut out with a dovetail bit and match the taper on the insert’s. Then when clamped like Robin was it would press back into the frame as well.
I was thinking that way would have been better...........but then again........wot do I know lol 😂
Great video Robin , from a keen diyer.
Delicious 😊
Did you explain to Ed about the climb cut he did with the router as to the way you did it?
What exactly do you mean if you don't mind?
Climb cut is going the wrong way with the router
@@amazing451 The cutter spins clockwise as you look at it from above. You should move left too right so the cutter is going against your push. It's much saver and more controllable.
A climb cut is when you go right to left but it can run away with you.
The easiest way to think of is a spinning car tyre, if all of sudden it gains traction the car takes off and your hanging on trying to control it. That is a climb cut.
It was explained and a school boy error on my behalf! It’s always hard when there is a camera pointed at you 😅
@@harveysmith100 Thanks for your reply I get it now👍👍
You’re dead right about the timber used in linings, its quite brittle and can even tear out when using a marking knife at 90 degrees to the grain. In future I’ll use your 45 method of using dovetail shaped keys instead of rectangular. Thanks robin. Why doors before arcs btw?
I do doors before architrave so I can use router jigs for the hinges without the arcs getting in the way.
The entire video I was wondering how the rounded inside corners left by the router would be addressed for the sharp corners of the infill. I figured a quick chisel would be the solution. Pleasantly surprised by the clamp drawing the two pieces together. Sharp video as usual!
I did a whole building of these a year or two ago, I pretty much did it exactly the same way, but unfortunately over here in Australia they are into rebated door jambs ( the door stop is a permanent moulding) so It was slightly trickier, Robin’s corners aren’t visible as they’re behind ( or will be) the planted stop, for mine that were visible I just slightly rounded the corner on the sander and when they’re clamped up, and I was using PU glue ( unibond by adheal) it’s perfect.
You don’t really need to over think these jobs 👍🏻
Hi Robin, great video I remember watching my father doing this but all by hand. How do you deal with a door frame that is not straight, so some unknown reason it has gone off square? This is an issue I have seen in older houses, would you remove the door frame and start again?
Great video. I have suffered a break in where they have damaged all of the internal door locks and broken some of the door linings/door jambs. Hinges are obviously much thinner than the recesses for locks. I assume the same method can be used for this, but you would need a deeper template cutter. Could you please confirm this would be okay?
What model of Dewalt router was that you were using? Also if you had to splice in for a lock on an external door would you put the 45° the other way for more security?
Excellent video really useful I have 8 doors to hang in old door linings would you suggest removing all the old stops before hanging ?
genius
Bloody ell you not finished that job yet, I could of done that whole build in a month for a fraction on the price 😂
What a bloke genius at work, second to none.
Mon the chippys!!!
When can you start???
@@ukconstruction let me see, got 3 kitchens to rip out and replace, an extention I need to complete and a few tips and tricks on roofing I need to convey to the tall carpenter.
I think I can wrap that all up by Monday 🤣
Ed needs to add a foot on each frame for him to walk through!
Hi Robin , once you have repaired the old hinges area ,can you put the original hinges back in the same place? would it be now strong enough with just the glue ?
Ed used that dewalt router in the wrong direction and you can see the router jumping
I wouldn't follow advice from these people.
Do you use timber which is as dry as the timber you’re joining in to? I’ve been caught a few times on my resto project with ‘kiln dried’ timber shrinking, for example 1-2mm on T&G braced doors I’ve made.
I always put them in the other way with 45 to the back can never come out
Hi man, first year apprentice here.. what’s that knife your using in the video, weird question I know but I’m looking for a decent one as my Stanley one keeps breaking and this looks good!
Hi Robin. When you used the router and jig to create the recess for the blank, presumably the corners were rounded a little due to the bearing, we’re they? Did you chisel them as well? I was watching for a little clean-up in the video but I don’t think I saw it.
the radius is so small that taping in the block will bend out of the way
Hi Robin, great video as always. Have you ever came across a device to set the door frame opening called a JAMBMASTER?
Also - "back on the oilstone for half an hour" brought to mind Fred Dibnah "spending half a day at the undertakers".
I wood use filler ...soo much quicker.
Only joking....super job as always 😊
Great video, super helpful - where do you get your prescription saftey glasses from?
Hi Angus, these are from Specsavers!!
@@ukconstruction Thanks!
Really useful info here. Just a question, why do you cut them at angles? Can you not just make rectangles? If the angles were fitted the other way, it would lock itself in?
They show less when sanded and painted
the piece goes in like a wedge and will fill the space leaving less gaps so long as your angles are the same.
@@jaydivall1800 that makes sense. With the angles, as you tap it in, it squeezes itself in and fills the gaps. With square, whatever size you cut it, thats what size it is and won't fill. I think that is something that will work in many other day to day things also. Learn something new every day
I think we should start referring to Ed as Thor the size of the hammer that he carries.
Why wouldn’t you flip your jig round and cut the 45’s from the front..? You would overcut a lot less and have more control being able to slide into the cut as opposed to backwards into the cut
How much would you charge to hang 10 moulded doors? Customer supplies doors and hardware.
That depends on many factors, location/distance, state of the existing door linings... are they all out of level and plumb, do new doors fit without to much re-shaping, is the hardware good quality... it is really hard to price, but I would say that the job is anywhere between £500 and £1000, labour is hard to find and decent labour who can deal with any problems is even harder!! Who else has an opinion on this????
@@ukconstruction Sounds about right to me.
Hi I'm in the market for a joiners tool belt and was wondering which ones you guys use?
These are from Diamondback toolbelts
Thankyou, much appreciated
I'm wondering about the angle of the patch, not a rectangular. There must be reason.
👍
Can you put a link to the router cutters?
Hi Adam, if you are not in a major hurry then in a week or so my very own router cutters will be available on my website www.robc.co.uk but in the mean time you are looking for a 12mm diameter, 9mm depth of cut template cutter
Little & Large ----- pmsl -- great working relationship
Pooh and Piglet. If I worked with them I'd definitely try to make that stick! 🤣 In a friendly way!
Me: £100 says you can't make those door linings good
Robin: hold my beer
Let me guess?? You got that Chisel w/ a pack of Cigarette’s??? That’s a beauty ; I was amazed that you hacked thru that rock hard soft wood pine w/it ! If you would not of spent that 3 minutes putting a razors edge on it you would still be there!!!
💙👊😎
At 22:46 mins,man he is a big lad
This video comes about 6 months too late ;). I've lost track how many of these door frames I've had to fill where old hinges, latches etc have been...or where we have decided to make outswinging doors into inswinging ones on the 3 houses we have owned.
🏴👍
nice job but. 28 £ a hour each for 2 joiners will be hard to ask
This is the trouble, customers want a job of this quality but three times faster and half the price - which is still more than they would have liked to pay. 😁
oh dear oh dear, where were ed's safety specs???
Do you actually walk round with that massive tool belt on all day?
I'm sure it's not nessacery and you must bang into the walls and doors which if they've been preped for painting or pre finished id imagine somebodys going to be pissed off, why not set up a work station instead?
Hi Tony, these tool belts are light, well fitted and as a carpenter I have used a tool belt all my career, it's all about skill and getting used to not clattering into walls etc, most professional tradespeople I work with have tool belts of varying styles to make them more effective and efficient, I have met a couple of tradespeople who cannot get along with a tool belt but they are few and far
I find it odd to carry around tools all day you do not use,.
Patronising C**t
Oh man, just go to Home Depot a buy a new pre hung door.
Home depot? No such thing in uk, and we don't get pre hung doors here anyway, once the jig is made the point is its then straight forward and efficient for future use. Do you not understand the concept?
canny idea for what is often a ball ache of a job.
That is horrible timber to chisel! Even as diyer with few power tools and with a good set of chisels, 30 years ago I'd have used my green Bosch POF500e router - used it all the time for so many things it wasn't intended for.
POLYFILLER lol
Why not just replace the doorframes.
I spoke about the reason for not changing the linings in the video
All that effort when the frame has no architrave anyway why not just replace the frame ?
I talk about the reasons for not changing the linings in the video did you miss that?
Why is that lad wearing a tool pouch ? Ffs it’s so ott?
It's nonyeah