My sincere thanks for giving us youtubers for free this insightful tutorial. I recently got hit with a "you must replace your tie rods within 30 days" for my car to pass inspection for registration. I tried going to the local mechanics, but they were booked up! Without too much extra special tools (you totally need that special tie rod U ring clamp though) I was able to replace both RH and LH inner and outer tie rods using your instructions for my 2004 Volvo S60. I used a precise technique to count full turns when backing off the outer tie rods. All seemed to line up well afterwards. The outer tie rod nuts that connect them to the brake and wheel hub assembly are PITAs! I found vice grips around the bottom or top of the stud totally necessary. Whoever designed the protective inner tie rod tubes that needs clamps deserves a special place in hell. They are just about impossible to install and keep in place.
2002 Volvo S60. Should have watched this first before I replaced the RH inner tierod! I never thought to use a "big pair channel lock wrench, nor the tierod tool and I have both - I am old school and always forget You-Tube is there.
My S80 has 178k miles and the outer tie rod needed replacement. I heated the lock nut to 599 degrees f . I verified this with an infrared gun. The lock nut did break free. An impact wrench loosened the tie rod to hub bolt, however I needed to use a vice pliers and an 18 mm wrench to finish removing the nut. By far the most unexpected event was that the outer tie rod was frozen to the inner tie rod. I suspect water and salt rusted the threads making separation impossible. Instead of separating the inner and outer tie rods, my adjusted plan will be to replace inner and outer as one piece.
april 24, 2022. There are 4 or more comments about the outer tie rod nut just spinning the entire joint and not loosening. Luckily, someone commented that you can vise-grip the exposed threads and loosen nut that way. One person said a electric or pneumatic torque gun can overcome the stuck threads to loosen the nut. But I did not see any solution to the other problem. And that is installing the nut on a new tie rod by hand tools. Installing using an electric or pneumatic tool may work, but if you get a new tie rod with a recessed star bit hole in the end and with a new enlongated black nut you may be out of luck. The torque required to "round out" the elongated nut hole be greater than the strength of the mild steel inside the star bit hole and the hole will strip if you try to conteract the tightening torque.The only solution to this, after the bit hole had stripped is to use the old nut that has already been used because the torque is way way less to install the old nut. Then when enough threads have been exposed you can catch the rod end in a pliers grip and finish tightening the outer tie rod nut. Maybe use a nyloc nut instead for same reason.
Great video on changing the inner tie rod, the only thing I did not really understand is when you slackened the old tie rod without holding the inner shaft, I expected the inner shaft to have to be held?
This video shows the left hand side, where it is pretty easy to get the boot on. On the right hand side on my 2001 V70, there are a lot of obstructions around the boot for the inner tie rod. There are several hard metal lines above and to the right of the rack make it so I can't get my hand that far back, and there is a plastic line that runs right between the subframe and the steering rack on that side, which makes it hard to slide the boot around the rack. I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to accomplish installing the boot on the right side?
I have saw a lot of people say that you NEED to use the Volvo special tool 9997020 to hold the rack itself as you apply torque to remove and install the inner tie rod? is this true?
That's a good question! I did research on Matt's Volvo forum and posted it here but it was deleted by TH-cam. Basically some people said they did tie rod without the special tool and were fine. One person says it's better to be safe than sorry and protect the steering rack from damage by using the special tool. You might get lucky and not damage the steering rack without the tool, but without the counter hold, it puts extreme force on the rack which is worrying.
I seen this product on Harbor Freight that is a lot cheaper than the Volvo special tool. If it's substitutes I will buy this probably or buy the Volvo tool and try to resell afterwards. I can't really post links on TH-cam so here's the description: "This inner tie rod removal tool set makes it easy to replace inner tie rods without removing the rack and pinion. The inner tie rod removal set includes seven SAE and metric adapters to handle a variety of make and model vehicles. The set is constructed of forged steel and comes organized in a custom case for easy storage and transport."
Auto shops also rent out this tool. My plan is to call around and see which nearby stores have it. I'm surprised they didn't mention it in the video, I think it should be mentioned to use this tool if there is a risk of damage according to the forum user.
Thanks for the great video! I’m just struggling to remove the outer tie rod nut it just spins a and spins while the threaded part of the outer tie rod spins too. Same issue reinstalling the new tie rods Using an outer tie rod from Ledforder 26701 any guidance? car is a v70 xc thanks!!!!
It sounds like the tie rod joint is spinning. Usually an electric impact will wizz it off without it spinning, however with hand tools it might be a big difficult. You can try using vice grips or pliers to hold the shaft and prevent it from spinning while you try to loosen the nut.
Thanks for the great video. The timing is perfect, as I need new inner and outer tie rods on my xc70. Is it safe to apply that much torque when removing and installing the inner tie rod without putting a counter hold on the steering rack?
Thanks for the helpful Video. I fund that OEM tool to tighten the Inner Tie rod to 90 NM(at Autozone) Just a quick question as you didn't mention torqueing the "tie rod lock nut". Is there a torque spec for that? I didn't find one in my Volvo repair CD
Jason, why are the tie rods going under the hub bracket, with the nut on top? Aren't them supposed to go above the nut bracket with the nut underneath, so if the nut breaks loose the tie rod is still attached to the hub? On the older S70 it was going on top of the hub bracket.
Probably had to do with ground spacing, suspension height, or some other dimension. Allows the rack to sit a couple inches lower relative to the hub. Why else?
There is a major issue with this instructional. When undoing the nut on the tie rod where it attaches to the hub, the tie rod joint and that nut can spin together, making it impossible to undo this nut with a socket. The nut will just spin and won't unthread. You'll have to hold the bolt with an 8mm wrench, then break the nut free with an 18mm wrench. It's a real pain and nowhere near as easy as this video shows.
Jason- thanks for thé gréât vidéo. Can you elaborate on the comment i read in Vadis about keeping the steering wheel locked while doing this job and not moving the wheels in order to not mess up the SRS system? I have a 2005 xc90 v8. I am assuming that if you count the turns on the outer tie rod like you did the wheels should be in the correct position per the rack, but what if your counting is off by a turn or too. Are the side airbags going to blow once I finish this job?
Hello David, If the tie rods are off by a few turns, it shouldn't be an issue with the SRS system however you will need an alignment which will fix the issue if your off initially. To clarify, after this repair/replacement, your next step is an alignment.
The hardest part of this job for me was getting the bellows on and clamping them down. Very little room to get the crumpets in there. The passenger side bellows didn’t want to fit on. Buyer beware it’s always the “simple” tasks....
Just finished both sides today, thanks to this video! Keeping my 264K-mile 2001 S60 alive!
I got 260,204 miles and needing to do that to mine! Was it easy?
@@paulvivier1984 Did you do it? About to do mine and did you run into any problems?
@@michaelvd2467 i sold the car and never ended up doing them. Should be fairly easy though.
My sincere thanks for giving us youtubers for free this insightful tutorial. I recently got hit with a "you must replace your tie rods within 30 days" for my car to pass inspection for registration. I tried going to the local mechanics, but they were booked up! Without too much extra special tools (you totally need that special tie rod U ring clamp though) I was able to replace both RH and LH inner and outer tie rods using your instructions for my 2004 Volvo S60. I used a precise technique to count full turns when backing off the outer tie rods. All seemed to line up well afterwards. The outer tie rod nuts that connect them to the brake and wheel hub assembly are PITAs! I found vice grips around the bottom or top of the stud totally necessary. Whoever designed the protective inner tie rod tubes that needs clamps deserves a special place in hell. They are just about impossible to install and keep in place.
Your tutorials are the best. These videos have saved me hundreds of dollars. Thank you so much!!!!!
2002 Volvo S60. Should have watched this first before I replaced the RH inner tierod! I never thought to use a "big pair channel lock wrench, nor the tierod tool and I have both - I am old school and always forget You-Tube is there.
Excellent tutorial. No bla, blas, just do it. Perfect camera work + lighting too.
Thank you for taking the time to help a knucklehead like me out. You're the best!
FCP killin'it again with this S60!
Your guys' videos are so straight forward...makes me want to buy all these parts from FCP for my Volvo. :P
you should buy them, if you need them that is, can't beat that LifetimeWarranty brother.
the only place I buy from for my volvo.
My S80 has 178k miles and the outer tie rod needed replacement. I heated the lock nut to 599 degrees f . I verified this with an infrared gun. The lock nut did break free. An impact wrench loosened the tie rod to hub bolt, however I needed to use a vice pliers and an 18 mm wrench to finish removing the nut. By far the most unexpected event was that the outer tie rod was frozen to the inner tie rod. I suspect water and salt rusted the threads making separation impossible. Instead of separating the inner and outer tie rods, my adjusted plan will be to replace inner and outer as one piece.
A great tutorial video. I love your materials for their detail and great quality of work. Thank you.
Thanks. Your video helped me do this job successfully on my S60.
Fantastic video looks so easy like I can do it, Thank you for helping Volvo community
Man I wanna bring my car to your garage at soonest 😆
THANK YOU! I have this exact make, model, and year. Great car! Just time for some repairs such as this.
Step 1: Get a post lift installed in your home garage.
my wish that will never happen
april 24, 2022.
There are 4 or more comments about the outer tie rod nut just spinning the entire joint and not loosening. Luckily, someone commented that you can vise-grip the exposed threads and loosen nut that way. One person said a electric or pneumatic torque gun can overcome the stuck threads to loosen the nut. But I did not see any solution to the other problem. And that is installing the nut on a new tie rod by hand tools. Installing using an electric or pneumatic tool may work, but if you get a new tie rod with a recessed star bit hole in the end and with a new enlongated black nut you may be out of luck. The torque required to "round out" the elongated nut hole be greater than the strength of the mild steel inside the star bit hole and the hole will strip if you try to conteract the tightening torque.The only solution to this, after the bit hole had stripped is to use the old nut that has already been used because the torque is way way less to install the old nut. Then when enough threads have been exposed you can catch the rod end in a pliers grip and finish tightening the outer tie rod nut. Maybe use a nyloc nut instead for same reason.
Great video on changing the inner tie rod, the only thing I did not really understand is when you slackened the old tie rod without holding the inner shaft, I expected the inner shaft to have to be held?
Thank you for the video, time to fix my tie rod. Thanks for the tips!! :)
I have xc70 2006
We're happy to help, Kathleen!
Is 1/8" lateral play normal on the xc70? ( Front end)
No threadlocker needed?
This video shows the left hand side, where it is pretty easy to get the boot on. On the right hand side on my 2001 V70, there are a lot of obstructions around the boot for the inner tie rod. There are several hard metal lines above and to the right of the rack make it so I can't get my hand that far back, and there is a plastic line that runs right between the subframe and the steering rack on that side, which makes it hard to slide the boot around the rack. I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to accomplish installing the boot on the right side?
Yep, high quality zip tie works fine. Ive had zip ties on both sides for over 50k miles
My 18mm bolt is spinning with the stud for the tie rod. How do I combat this?
great video do you have one of replacing rack and pinion on same car S60 ??
I have saw a lot of people say that you NEED to use the Volvo special tool 9997020 to hold the rack itself as you apply torque to remove and install the inner tie rod? is this true?
That's a good question! I did research on Matt's Volvo forum and posted it here but it was deleted by TH-cam. Basically some people said they did tie rod without the special tool and were fine. One person says it's better to be safe than sorry and protect the steering rack from damage by using the special tool.
You might get lucky and not damage the steering rack without the tool, but without the counter hold, it puts extreme force on the rack which is worrying.
I seen this product on Harbor Freight that is a lot cheaper than the Volvo special tool. If it's substitutes I will buy this probably or buy the Volvo tool and try to resell afterwards. I can't really post links on TH-cam so here's the description:
"This inner tie rod removal tool set makes it easy to replace inner tie rods without removing the rack and pinion. The inner tie rod removal set includes seven SAE and metric adapters to handle a variety of make and model vehicles. The set is constructed of forged steel and comes organized in a custom case for easy storage and transport."
Auto shops also rent out this tool. My plan is to call around and see which nearby stores have it. I'm surprised they didn't mention it in the video, I think it should be mentioned to use this tool if there is a risk of damage according to the forum user.
Thanks for the great video! I’m just struggling to remove the outer tie rod nut it just spins a and spins while the threaded part of the outer tie rod spins too. Same issue reinstalling the new tie rods Using an outer tie rod from Ledforder 26701 any guidance? car is a v70 xc thanks!!!!
It sounds like the tie rod joint is spinning. Usually an electric impact will wizz it off without it spinning, however with hand tools it might be a big difficult. You can try using vice grips or pliers to hold the shaft and prevent it from spinning while you try to loosen the nut.
Thanks for the great video. The timing is perfect, as I need new inner and outer tie rods on my xc70. Is it safe to apply that much torque when removing and installing the inner tie rod without putting a counter hold on the steering rack?
Yes, It's perfectly fine to apply the torque without a counterhold.
Thanks for the helpful Video. I fund that OEM tool to tighten the Inner Tie rod to 90 NM(at Autozone) Just a quick question as you didn't mention torqueing the "tie rod lock nut". Is there a torque spec for that? I didn't find one in my Volvo repair CD
Hi my outer 18mm bolt keep turning with the nut, what can I do?
Same here...
@@Bo-tt8cy Vice grips or a 7mm open-ended wrench to hold it still. Size might vary depending on make.
Jason, why are the tie rods going under the hub bracket, with the nut on top? Aren't them supposed to go above the nut bracket with the nut underneath, so if the nut breaks loose the tie rod is still attached to the hub? On the older S70 it was going on top of the hub bracket.
This was the way Volvo designed the system on these cars. We're not exactly sure why the design was changed from the P80 chassis.
Probably had to do with ground spacing, suspension height, or some other dimension. Allows the rack to sit a couple inches lower relative to the hub. Why else?
is the inner tie rod this easy on a P1 S40/V50/C30? or am I going to have to remove a pin or something and need a tool for the nut?
There is a major issue with this instructional. When undoing the nut on the tie rod where it attaches to the hub, the tie rod joint and that nut can spin together, making it impossible to undo this nut with a socket. The nut will just spin and won't unthread.
You'll have to hold the bolt with an 8mm wrench, then break the nut free with an 18mm wrench.
It's a real pain and nowhere near as easy as this video shows.
thevoiceoftruth55 I show this detail in the Volvo tie rod video on my TH-cam channel.
Torque to what?
Definitely should pack those threads out with Greece so it’ll never Siez up again
Some anti seize would certainly not hurt.
Jason- thanks for thé gréât vidéo. Can you elaborate on the comment i read in Vadis about keeping the steering wheel locked while doing this job and not moving the wheels in order to not mess up the SRS system? I have a 2005 xc90 v8. I am assuming that if you count the turns on the outer tie rod like you did the wheels should be in the correct position per the rack, but what if your counting is off by a turn or too. Are the side airbags going to blow once I finish this job?
Hello David, If the tie rods are off by a few turns, it shouldn't be an issue with the SRS system however you will need an alignment which will fix the issue if your off initially. To clarify, after this repair/replacement, your next step is an alignment.
FCP Euro thanks! Definitely getting an alignment. You guys are great
Awesome
You are!
The hardest part of this job for me was getting the bellows on and clamping them down. Very little room to get the crumpets in there. The passenger side bellows didn’t want to fit on.
Buyer beware it’s always the “simple” tasks....
Its easier (imo) to use high quality zip ties. Ive had zip ties on for 55k miles with zero issues.
"make sure you use a big pair of channelocks"
*grabs knipex pliers*
Is this the same for my 2009 Volvo S80?
Yes, it will be similar on the S80.
No grease, or did i miss that?
Hi, Daryl. The tie rod ends already have grease in them.
Just pay the $100 per side at a shop if your rods are seized. Save yourself the aggravation. I ended up hurting both wrist for weeks.
Thanks for video. Any ideas why the boot fills with fluid and swells after this repair? Not making it back to reservoir.
Unfortunately it sounds like the seal is leaking on the steering rack. Usually the entire rack must be replaced when this happens.
Thanks a lot for the reply. Wonder if some stop leak will buy me some time until I make the money to fix. Thanks again!
You're welcome!
Vrai PRO
Does power steering fluid gather inside the boot?
No supposed to. There is a seal that holds fluid in
You should wear some eyeprotection!
You should worry about your own hide and not be such a girl.
Yeah so easy unless the tie rod part has sealed to the track rod
When you said the pounds I couldn’t hear it
👏👏👏👏🥇🥇🥇🥇🥇