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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
- subscribe to my channel: bit.ly/noamtsvi-sub
When someone wants to 3d print a guitar, usually they would need to go and buy tuners. But in my opinion to make a 3D printed guitar, the fact that you made it yourself, with your own design and printed the whole thing, makes it unique and special. and store bought tuners make it only 90 percent 3D printed. which kind of defeats the point. So, I finally sat down and designed guitar tuners. I have a couple other designs I made some years ago. But I wanted to design the classic tuner look for my first tuner video. So in the future I would release more of my designs. Also with a ready file I can merge the tuners directly into the headstock of a guitar I am working on, without attaching them on with screws. These tuners work excellently with nylon guitar strings. For steel guitar strings they tune fine but up to a limit. The strings feel nice and tense, but I would say that if you want to be sure your tuners would last, they need to be strong enough to rip any string. these tuners can tune steel strings and stay in tune, but they are not strong enough to rip them. There are a bunch of things I want to change and improve on these tuners, I am certain they will have no problem ripping strings. But that will have to wait for the next version though.
I would love to see more people use 3D printed tuners so I've decided to share printable STL files. For non profit personal use. the file is not to be re uploaded or sold. You have my permission to sell your own instruments with these tuners attached. Also you can use them for TH-cam videos.
Here are the files:
www.printables.com/model/3006...
Assembly:
• 3D printed GUITAR tune...
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Thank you for watching my video! I'll see you in the next one!
#3Dprinted #guitar #tuner - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Awesome idea, great craftsmanship bro.. Greetings from the Philippines..
Thanks friend! Hello from Israel 😁
Beautiful work 🙌🙌🙌
Thank you I appreciate it😁
Awesome! Gonna give these a go i think. I love building cigar box guitars but the hardware costs add up very quickly, 3d printing seems like a good work around!
That's exactly the idea! DIY projects and such.
But these tuners had some issues.
I designed a better version, I highly recommend using the second version:
th-cam.com/video/LF1ARra5hqY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bSAYvSWacx6hjqeh
@noamtsvi, that's amazing!!!, you are really great!!!
Thank you friend 😊
That is super awesome. 👍
Thank you so much 😊
Great stuff! Way to go!
Thanks 🙏❤️
Great work, I hope you get more attention for this!
Thank you friend ❤️
Wow that's amazing! Very nice job.
Thank you! 😁
I love all your videos man please keep making them if you enjoy it you will for sure become a big channel someday rock on
Thank you do much friend! This means so much to me!! I really want to make more videos and I have tons and tons of ideas. At the moment it's hard for me to find time, but someday, hopefully soon, I'll organize my life enough so I can make lots of videos frequently. Thank you again!
I printed all the components using PLA and tested using fishing line string. I was able to get the tension up to within a whole step of the desired note. The turning was squeaky and the amount of effort varied from smooth to feeling like I was forcing it. The gears started slipping which ended the test. I reprinted the worm and pinion gear parts with the new PLA I just received and the gears are slipping right from the start. Like you already said, PLA didn’t work for you. I verified your conclusion. I may try PETG in the future. But I am wondering how long plastic gears in the tuners will hold up under regular use. You motivated me to try to make headless guitar tuners again. I researched what others had done in my pre 3D printing days and decided I didn’t have the tools or skills to pull it off. I think the 3D printer is a game changer and am working on a design right now. It does not involve 3D printing gears (beyond my skill set). I hope to finish up the first prototype to stress test soon. Thanks for inspiring me by your hard work and willingness to share it.
Thank you so much! this makes me so happy to hear I've inspired you. This gives me extra motivation to keep making videos. I hope you have good results with your idea and have fun building your instruments. I also have a design for bridge tuners, also involving gears, but a simpler more effective design and easier to print, way more successful than these headstock tuners. maybe I'll make a video about those as well. the reason I first made a video of these tuners is that they are actually part of another project I'm working on. also so far they are staying in tune since I've uploaded the video. And about the PETG issue, I have no doubt that its possible with other materials, by adding cooling, printing slower and adjusting the flow rate. but I'm not a printing genius and I was only successful with PETG. Thank you again for all the feedback
thx buddy, really appreciate your work
Thank you 🙏😊 I really appreciate it. Have you seen my second version? It works better
@@noamtsvi now i did :P thx again
@@woog1e thanks for liking my videos ❤️
Cool!
Thanks 😊
Thanks bro
My pleasure ❤️ have you seen my second version? It works better.
th-cam.com/video/LF1ARra5hqY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MmdNUccnf1lSoy6o
This is awesome! I'm going to try to use these to make a mini bass
I'm glad you like my tuners😁 and a mini base sounds awesome!! You might have to scale it up though for thicker strings. Are you going to use nylon or metal strings?
@@noamtsvi I'm going to try initially using just two strings, metal because that's what I have lying around. It's currently just in the design stage but I hope to make a fully 3d printed instrument... But it'll probably explode from the tension 😂
Maybe 😅 I know they work great on nylon strings, but not so great on metal strings. I wanted to tweak them up a bit so they'll be strong enough for metal strings. Maybe check back in MyMiniFactory in a week or two for a version 1.1. I might be done by then.
good video~~~👍👍👍
Thank you!!
Such an amazing work! I'd love to try them out and see how well they stay in tune. Have you tried PLA? what were your results? It's a bit tricky for me to print PETG but I'll give it a go nonetheless
Thank you so much! I've tried PLA, but I had issues printing the worm drive due to the overhang, PETG gave me more accurate results, also it has a stronger layer bond. But who knows, every printer and fillement is different so you might get good results with PLA. I hope this shared file is a good Idea, I've only tested it on my own printer. But I'm hoping people will have good results with it.
Very cool! Will print it tomorrow and share! Did you make any full size guitars? We are willing to do so
Thank you kind sir, I very much appreciate it 😁 definitely I will design and print a full guitar someday, but at the moment I have so many things going on that TH-cam got kind of neglected.. there are some travel guitars that I made, but can't share them just yet. Hopefully in the next couple months I'll be able to get back to projects and that long TH-cam to-do list. Also keep in mind that these tuners work well with nylon strings, not steel strings. I have a better design in mind that would work with steel strings, on that long list of things to do... Anyways I hope these work well for you, don't forget to print the worm drive slow. Bye for now
After studying the design, I think the pin could be modified to keep the gear from falling out.
I have a couple improvements in mind for version 2. I wanted the gear to be visible as a design element. But maybe I was to optimistic
Great design. I'll try and cast them in brass and see if they hold up to metalstrings on a Cigar Box Guitar :)
Hey there Jesper, I'm glad you liked the design! casting in brass sounds awesome! If the parts move correcly, they should definitely work. Just thought I might point out that these tuners have some issues. I'm working on version2. fewer parts and more stable, easier to print, and stronger. I would suggest casting version2. but on the other hand, I can't tell you exactly when I will finish the design since I am juggling my time with 3 kids, a wife, 2 jobs, and a little bit of TH-cam projects. I'm actually printing a test today, but I don't know exactly when I would share the files.
@@noamtsvi It will probably be a month before I get to cast them, so hopefully version 2 will be ready by then :D
I know all too well the issues with time so no rush :)
@@jesperskovjuul2170 alrighty then it's a race!
@@jesperskovjuul2170 Hey there, I'm terribly sorry but I haven't had the chance to finish version 2. I'm afraid if you cast the first version you might be disappointed, but on the other hand waiting on me might take a while.. to bad TH-cam isn't my job.. yet...
@@noamtsvi Hi, I'm finally getting around to casting these :) If you still don't have a new version I will try this one and see how it turns out.
Edit: I found your version 1.1, I'll try that as well.
maybe SLA gears work better?
I think it would work better. But I don't have an SLA printer so I won't be able to tell you.
This is kind of 🔥 bro. Would you say 3D printing is still in it's infancy?
Definitely, there are improvements every day, some day it'll be a regular house hold item in every home
How does it hold so far? What 3D modelling app did you use?
So far it's working great, but it's only a single tuner on a diddley bow. I am currently printing 12, to try them on an acoustic and classical guitar.
For this project I used fusion 360
Very cool idea. I am currently 3D printing frets and using double stick tape to attach to the fretboard. This would take things to the next level. I tried printing all the tuner parts in PLA. The base and gear required extra attention rotating to get flush to the base before printing. Printed using default settings at medium resolution to start with. Parts fit together fine and turned roughly at first just manipulating in my hand. Turns smoothly now in both directions when I use my thumb to hold the gear in place. If I remove my thumb, I can only turn one direction (tightening a string) smoothly. When I reverse the direction it ejects the gear. I have not tried under a load with a string. I used the gear with the short shaft. Did I do something wrong?
Hi there, first I'd like to thank you for printing my tuner and leaving feedback! I designed the tuners to be a tight fit so yes you need to turn them a bit until it becomes flush. The gear is rounded and hugs the worm drive. Because it's a tight fit there should be no wiggle and the worm drive keeps the gear down. Also you need to make sure the slots on all the parts are aligned before inserting the pin. All the prints I did with PETG work great. I did some tests with PLA, but because the overhang, the gear of the worm drive was not exactly simmetrical. I could see on the gear, that the underside and top of the teeth of the gear were at a slightly different angle. And that tuner sounds like what you have here, it wiggled and wouldn't keep the other gear down. So I just stuck with PETG. Maybe you can somehow add cooling or print even slower. Or if you see the gear looks perfect, Maybe your fit isn't tight enough so you can increase the flow rate a bit. And about the short shaft gear, it depends where you want to attach it. The long one is for standard headstocks, the medium one is for DIY project and the short one is if you want to merge the tuner into another headstock STL, without the need to attach it from the bottom. I should probably state this where I uploaded the file. I hope this helps you, I'd be happy to hear how it goes. And thanks again
by the way, I also have a guitar with 3D printed frets, that I attached with double sided tape. Works great. And what you said about rotating the parts to be flush with the base, you mean in the slicer? Most slicers have a ''surface to platform'' function.
@@noamtsvi I’m not aware of that feature in my program. Both parts took a 92 degree rotation to get them flush to the base. Glad to see you have explored the frets only approach, it takes a lot more time and materials to print frets integrated with fretboards and/or necks which I have experimented with. I have done plain 3D printed frets and ones that have nail brad and Tpin inserts. Steel strings are hard on PLA (even wound classical strings are too) so adding some metal is helpful! The brad nail frets are showing wear, the Tpins are stainless steel and are not at this point. It only takes 30 minutes to do a total refret anyway. I also print a variety of other guitar parts for my cigar box guitars; it is a very versatile tool. My designs are all done with openSCAD. The gears you created are very impressive and way beyond my skill set. I’m pretty much out of filament for the moment, but will resume testing when the roll I ordered arrives in a week.
I’m hoping to make your designs work with PLA. Which parts are most likely to fail under stress? If it’s the post that the string goes through, I’m inclined to modify the design to insert a nail after the print.
If you print it at 100% infill, the post would have no problem at all. If you're using nylon guitar strings there is nothing to worry about. But if you're using steel strings, it tunes nicely up to a certain point, when the tention gets high, the pin would break and the sleeve might get a bit deformed.
The frets I printed are PETG. They're holding up nicely so far. They don't really wear down because they are a bit flexible so they squish a tiny bit when pressed on Rather then wearing down
And another thing I'll have to do is orient the parts, to accommodate for slicers that don't have the surface to platform feature
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Is it works with steel strings?
Hi there, it only works with nylon strings for a classical guitar at the moment. I do want to make a stronger version for steel strings. But I haven't found the time yet.