Hi & thx for this vid. I'm not quite sure about the blade you're domo-ing with, but the blades I use have a top and a bottom. In other words, the teeth on the serrated side of the blade point more toward one end of the blade than the other, so when inserting the blade, you need to be sure the teeth point DOWNWARD toward the handle of your saw frame. Hope this helps out anyone who ran into this question. =] ~sky
Bending the saw frame to tension the blade makes sense if your frame is not adjustable but with an adjustable frame, loosen the frame adjustment, put the blade in then expand the frame to tension the blade.
....Gently.... The blades do tend to break a bit more easily than we'd like especially until people get used to them. There is a reason blades come in bundles, not single blades. I grinned when she said IF we happen to break *the blade, not *when we break *a blade. Professional lifelong silversmiths break blades. Thicker heavier blades won't function for details, curves, etc & waste precious metals, creating more dust (think saw dust). So it's a trade off. A whole bundle of good blades is under $5. But gently take his suggestion as if it's a hair, bc breaking one before even using it is annoying.
what would be the best saw frame? Because I have tryed tow X-acto saw frames and they both suck >_< I dont know if its just my bad luck or does X-acto really suck...
We only offer the Eurotool saw on our website so that is the only one I can speak about. I like it and it feels very sturdy in your hand. I have not worked with the X-acto brand saw frames before so I unfortunately can not speak to their quality or give a comparison.
The x-acto handles are for thicker craft blades, hobbyist use, not for silversmithing blades or metal jewelry use, or tight corners or curves etc. A good quality jewellers' saw frame is not expensive - but / so, get the best one. This kind or any a silversmith supply co. sells will be much better to use. & You want a bundle of German or Swiss silversmithing blades, also inexpensive.
Look up the Rio Grande or Lonnie's silversmithing supply websites for more info. Last I knew both had information on the different types, features, etc& that's where all the SW silversmiths go. Well there's another place too but don't.
The blades do tend to break a bit more easily than we'd like especially until people get used to them. There is a reason blades come in bundles, not single blades. I grinned when she said IF we happen to break *the blade, not *when we break *a blade. Professional lifelong silversmiths break blades. Thicker heavier blades won't function for details, curves, etc & waste precious metals, creating more dust (think saw dust). So it's a trade off. A whole bundle of good blades is under $5. But gently as if it's a hair, bc breaking one before even using it is annoying. Better too gentle til you get a feel for it than impatient & sorry. They can bend into a crease if handled roughly too. Read the comment on not bending an adjustable frame.... That trick is for non-adjustable frames.
Hi & thx for this vid. I'm not quite sure about the blade you're domo-ing with, but the blades I use have a top and a bottom. In other words, the teeth on the serrated side of the blade point more toward one end of the blade than the other, so when inserting the blade, you need to be sure the teeth point DOWNWARD toward the handle of your saw frame. Hope this helps out anyone who ran into this question. =]
~sky
Truth. All jewellers' saw blades have angled teeth, & all should point down, towards the handle.
Bending the saw frame to tension the blade makes sense if your frame is not adjustable but with an adjustable frame, loosen the frame adjustment, put the blade in then expand the frame to tension the blade.
ardvarkkkkk1 wish somebody told me that before I bent the tensioner to the right by bending against a table like the video
....Gently....
The blades do tend to break a bit more easily than we'd like especially until people get used to them. There is a reason blades come in bundles, not single blades. I grinned when she said IF we happen to break *the blade, not *when we break *a blade. Professional lifelong silversmiths break blades. Thicker heavier blades won't function for details, curves, etc & waste precious metals, creating more dust (think saw dust). So it's a trade off. A whole bundle of good blades is under $5. But gently take his suggestion as if it's a hair, bc breaking one before even using it is annoying.
Very helpful! Thanks
Thank you.
Thank you SO much Allison!! I bought mine on Amazon but it came with no instructions.
Thank you
Glad I could help!
what would be the best saw frame? Because I have tryed tow X-acto saw frames and they both suck >_< I dont know if its just my bad luck or does X-acto really suck...
We only offer the Eurotool saw on our website so that is the only one I can speak about. I like it and it feels very sturdy in your hand. I have not worked with the X-acto brand saw frames before so I unfortunately can not speak to their quality or give a comparison.
The x-acto handles are for thicker craft blades, hobbyist use, not for silversmithing blades or metal jewelry use, or tight corners or curves etc. A good quality jewellers' saw frame is not expensive - but / so, get the best one. This kind or any a silversmith supply co. sells will be much better to use. & You want a bundle of German or Swiss silversmithing blades, also inexpensive.
And make sure it's got an adjustable mouth bc you WILL break blades sometimes, that's why they come in bundles.
Look up the Rio Grande or Lonnie's silversmithing supply websites for more info. Last I knew both had information on the different types, features, etc& that's where all the SW silversmiths go. Well there's another place too but don't.
The blades do tend to break a bit more easily than we'd like especially until people get used to them. There is a reason blades come in bundles, not single blades. I grinned when she said IF we happen to break *the blade, not *when we break *a blade. Professional lifelong silversmiths break blades. Thicker heavier blades won't function for details, curves, etc & waste precious metals, creating more dust (think saw dust). So it's a trade off. A whole bundle of good blades is under $5. But gently as if it's a hair, bc breaking one before even using it is annoying. Better too gentle til you get a feel for it than impatient & sorry. They can bend into a crease if handled roughly too. Read the comment on not bending an adjustable frame.... That trick is for non-adjustable frames.
These a great tips, thanks for sharing!