Find the Hidden Power P1 - Making Most Powerful Two Stroke.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- T-shirts, hoodies, stickers etc
teespring.com/...
Support me on Patreon!
/ 2strokestuffing
Donate to 2STROKE STUFFING
www.paypal.com...
or
www.paypal.me/...
Instagram
/ 2strokestuffing
facebook
/ 2strokestuffing
DIY Arduino dyno shield
ardyno.weebly.com
Twostrokerider
www.twostroker...
Twostroke.se
www.twostroke.se
Treatland
www.treatland.tv
Emot Racing
www.emot.nl
Get Simpledyno here:
sites.google.c...
I just want to let you know. You owe us nothing. Don't feel you have to get videos out, or you have to get this running right as fast as you can for us. We came here because this is an interesting project and we enjoy your content. Keep up the good work, and a baby step is still a step.
Agreed. If anything we owe him for the awesome insight into this exciting project.
I totally agree and he makes every video so well everything from the editing filming and more, feels like im watching a movie.
I agree!!❤
This project has been going through r&d for YEARS, those of us following aren't stressing about how often content is updated I can assure you lol.
@@evilweasil that sounds like a my house.wad reference. But I do agree.
"I'm gonna clean up the garage when the engine is running properly."
I've never related so much to a sentence in my life. For me right now, it is when I am finished with the rear suspension/mini tubs. Happy to see several videos of progress in a row, I'm sure it feels good. With any luck you'll be able to get some more sleep soon and make even more progress.
😂 my Dyno with my compound turbo 155cc looks like this too 😂 Iv been saying the same thing for well over ten years 😅... I actually met my goal last year but I eh kinda kept going with the development and I eh well iv changed the motor a few times since and I still haven't cleaned that space 😂
@@OneHappyCrazyPerson I mean I hear that logic but I've always been a bit of a mad scientist in a messy space and my little 155cc is well over my 100hp goal.I'll admit at an astronomical boost lol but she keeps all her parts in place during the 1/8mile. Sometimes that messy guy in a shed that doesn't get it all right gets big new ideas going that the clean cut neat engineers wouldn't ever glance at let alone fight with for yrs to make it work under it very specific circumstances that it does work in. Specialized ppl for special tasks as we say.
@OneHappyCrazyPerson Having the comment section of every video cluttered by your toxic shit is fun and all, but.. If you're going to start flinging that shit at others here too, not just me, then I'll have no choice but to ban you. You're warned.
Thankyou so much for getting the insane sound levels under control man!
Now I can listen without constantly changing the volume every time you get on the dyno!
Glad to see you're making some progress in these last few weeks, even given the lack of sleep, trust me I have an autistic 5yo boy, I know that feeling all too well
Indeed what a major quality improvement, I am impressed to say the least!
i like to wake up my neighbours :D
Having run thousands of dynamometer tests over the years, my impression upon studying the peak torque and horsepower numbers of your engine at relatively low rpm (12-15k), it strikes me that the scavenge efficiency needed to generate 20+ bhp just isn't there, regardless of attempts to optimize the ignition-timing and A/F ratio. However-I think that you're on the right track by considering the expansion chamber's design. Since the engine never seems to "hit the pipe", you might consider changing over to an old school variable-volume expansion chamber unit that may allow you the flexibility to maintain (or increase) the engine's torque until the desired rpm (20,000+) where the real horsepower resides... Keep up the promising work, we admire your efforts. Note: Please check the calibration of your instrumentation.
feel the same but kant say what is off at this time.
some years ago i ported a 50cc china minimoto and on a MJP bench it gave 4.5hp on standard carb and exhaust so im confused Alex cant get the number up higher on his engine that should give alot more.
I'm with you. I think that his dyno is at least part of the problem.@@extec101
@@davidgierke7582 Honestly at the horsepower range he is working on the best homemade dyno would have just been hooking the engine straight up to an electrical generator head. Take power readings directly with a voltmeter and amp meter driving a load of incandescent lightbulbs or resistance heater in a water tank. That way he can run the engine at full throttle and make adjustments to timing, carb jetting, or exhaust pipe on the fly to dial the engine in for peak power quicker. I think he is loosing more power in that motorcycle gearbox contraption than he realizes. Has he even calibrated the inertial dyno with the additional mass of the motorcycle drivetrain and wheel to give him accurate numbers anyway? There are just so many variables in his current setup that is causing unnecessary stress, especially if he can't even trust his tools to be truthful.
I couldn't have said it better! Anything would be better (almost) than an inertial dyno for his engine-development work, where accurate measurement is everything. Although EGT is a good general indicator of A/F, a much more accurate way to determine A/F is to use a calibrated flowmeter (fuel) and an air-dampener drum/manometer for the air. It's old school, but it's also inexpensive. Why guess at everything?@@clone4211
Inline fuel filter will show if it’s starving. Also inline filter will give you fuel on tap to get you over ther flow restriction. This has helped me recently. Actual fix was fuel tank restoration an petcock refresh
The holes in the pipe from earlier tests messes with the pipes resonance. Cutting them off and welding a plate on should really help.
Someone who knows more about 2 strokes please tell me if I’m right. He jumps around a lot, I get the opinion that he does not spend enough time on one specific thing learning as much as he can and perfecting that one thing before moving on to another and I believe that’s his main problem with not making real headway. I have watched every video he has made since the first summer of covid aprox.
Trust me, it is the powertrain, the belt alone takes at least 25% of the cranktorque away!! The Gearbox another 10% on that remaining 75% and of that you have to count at least 5% for the chain. THERE IS ROUGHLY HALF THE POWER LOST ON ITS WAY TO THE DYNO
Entirely agree
Would be awesome if this is the case.
You need a dedicated engine dynamometer.@@2STROKESTUFFING
@@2STROKESTUFFING if you had an outrigger support & roller bearing to support the belt pulley, ..that would reduce some crank flex resonance wearing drive side bearings out so fast, and reduce some vibrations from the opposite disc-valve side of the crank..
@@2STROKESTUFFING yes it is, despite the other problems... it behaves and sounds not as if theres only around 10PS. Also, it explains the problems getting it started and idle, because the crank cant run free it has always to run under a lot power and I think it could hinder the resonating hyperboosteffect from even happening
Brilliant again. I remember reading about one of the Japanese companies decades ago, used to start off long and keep trimming the stinger back till they got what they want, then kept trimming until it got worse. Then go back and build the length that worked.
First of all, great work as usual. The pipe extension test got me thinking: you made essentially the same power, but at significantly lower rpm. That means the torque is a lot higher. Which means cylinder filling is a lot better. So there's either a problem with the pipe, like not enough scavenging effect or too weak of a backpressure wave, or it's a flow restriction. Could be the exhaust, or anything in the intake tract. Although I don't believe that your port area is the problem, but it could be. Or the intake timing. At those desired engine speeds, every degree in the right direction helps. Air needs time to move.
Anyway, keep it up, greetings from Germany!
I think Alex needs to properly repair the expansion chamber, as the port for the temporary restricted starting area/valve,
is not flush with the inside diameter of the pipe !!
..and is causing a strange mix of resonance refractions, interacting with exhaust pulses & pressures.
..eeek !!
@@razor1uk610 Well, I agree at some point, but I think it won't be the general problem. I have seen some seriously damaged and leaky pipes, but I've never seen them robbing more than half the power. Sure, it does have an effect, but in this case there's something else seriously wrong, as this engine doesn't make any significant torque at high RPM. Greets!
In 2000 we ran Suzuki 750rr biked in the WEC. We always lock wired the rear brake pads as far off the disc as possible. 2 of the 3 riders were super bike class riders, they didn’t use the rear brake, the 3rd rider who was a GP 500 rider did use the rear brake, he had to stamp it a bit harder than he was used to. We kept the pads clear of the disc for wheel changes.
Too much advance is "pinging" not detonation.
Detonation can only occur due to thermal factors, be that high compression (heat) or too restrictive exhaust (heat) or lack of cooling (heat)
That said pinging isn't good for the engine but its not as destructive as detonation.
Re timing. Density influences burn time and thus advance required, over laying increase in engines speed.
So if "over" advancing the timing improves power then you know there is a deficiency in combustion density.
Perhaps try some short duration curves of high timing along the scale with the rest of it flat noting where in the RPM range the high timing blocks are giving you a boost or a loss.
With that you may get more of a picture of exactly where the deficiency in combustion density lies in the RPM range and work your way up from that.
Thanks for welcoming us back to your garage!
Well this is great. The base timing might not be accurate but at least when timing is adjusted, the engine responds consistently and in a manner that is expected. Also changing the main jet and header extension responded as expected. It seems that the changes to the exhaust port and rotary valve, seals, etc., leading up to this video were exactly what was needed. Looking forward to seeing how the stinger adjustments change the engine response.
Uncomfortably in the 10hp range! hahaha.
I can't wait to see incremental improvements both small and large. Once you can start picking away at individual and related tuning tasks and see a measurable response it will mean you are well down the path of peak output. Up until now it has been a monumental undertaking chasing different bottlenecks and issues and I get the feeling that you are finally getting some traction here!
LETS GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!
Genuine question. How come you don’t test this engine separate from the drivetrain on its own test jig and dynamometer? Remove all variables or as many variables as possible to make it easier to pinpoint issues and extract everything you can from the engine.
I'd sort out the base timing or at least check it if I was you, really need to know what the actual timing is, if it is actually up at 25 degrees BTDC when the engine is on the pipe then I'd say that you have some combustion issues going on. Anyway, great vid, keep up the good work!
Coming from over 15 years of tuning, don't focus on a number on timing. If you have a dyno, give it what it likes and don't pay attention to the actual value. Just check the ground strap of the plug after a dyno pull with a fresh plug. You want the annealing line to be dead center of the bend of the ground strap.
Here's an idea for a cheap power valve. Cut the pipe at the small section of the exhaust and install a washer welded on a shaft, weld pipe back up, then make a lever of sort and degree of opening to get the variable power balance.
I know practically nothing about two strokes, but I wanted to spitball this anyway. what if you made a system that allows you to 'adjust' pipe length/resonance with a computer as a function of RPM, just like the ignition? like having the pipe be a outer and inner sleeve with some form of actuator that moves the outer sleeve to 'lengthen' the pipe
i think theres a threshhold of pipe length that it would be limited too, so a mechanic system would maybe be easier
There is a similar system called a power valve. Although it has only two settings, it was deployed on several racing two-stroke motorcycles. The only single purpose of that system is to improve torque on the lower end. It is unnecessary for this specific application and will complicate everything.
That is called a "slippy pipe" and go cart guys used those for years before they were outlawed.
There might be some youtube videos of these out there some place.
I found one vid and it's called Lucky 13 Hydroplane
You could also type "slippy pipe" or "slip pipe" into your browser.
race boats have an exhaust that changes length depending on rpm
I just love this guy and the crazy inventor vibe 😂
Heh. You got me right at the end there. I'm glad it's going well for you. Now you're into my teenage memories - Messing with the EBE050 to squeeze power out while spending as little to no money possible. Metrakit and Malossi got sooo much money out of me
Shorter stinger = more torque, Longer stinger = wider, longer powerband so power for longer..
Thinner stinger same length might restrict too much
Man i love these series so much! used to have a Derbi Senda with the EBE50 engine, managed to get 14bhp out of the 50cc i had, then blew it up.. upgraded to a 70cc metrakit, which blew a headgasket and hydrolocked, breaking the innerhead and bent my crankshaft...
Then experimented with a malossi MHR team 80cc ( Bad bad cilinder btw )..
In the end, i went with a cheap ass Airsal 80cc, completely changed the geometrics inside, managed to get 23bhp out of that and called it a day, custom made exhaust etc all calculated. Man i had such a good time working on this, eventually sold the engine to a guy that now uses it for classic races in a classic Derbi GP bike.. He topped it out at almost 192km/h on the TT Circuit in the netherlands, was amazing
Since you've been working on this project for years, it's difficult for new viewers to gain an understandable approach. There should be a “what happened so far”summary maybe 3-4 times a year.
There hasent been no progress in years why bother he is no further ahead now than 2 years ago
@@paulb7334 try and error is learning as well
Or they binge watch his videos like i did get him some more views too
two things ...
put a pump on that fuel line - as this will make the flow steady, the carb have a cut of valve to protect against overfilling.
2nd - please add a airbox to it... it might sound counter entuitive, but imagine this; the carb actually mixes the AF in front of the carburator and the oscillating effect of the air of the engine is helping to mix the fuel in air..... not this you can harnish by adding a box with the right size to match RPM - then the resonance will help accelerate fuel and air into the engine at right RPM ... at but like the exhaust side....
love it when I get a new episode of a crazy man in a shed making a 2 stroke. probably one of the only times I grab a cuppa coffee and relax between doing uni work and keeping the misses happy. keep it up, even when progress is short ur videos are always great.
you should get CPI to make ya a bad ass cylinder. I love all the different approaches you take to this thing..2 strokes for life.
Seeing runnjng this engine is always a pleasure ❤
I’ve been waiting for this! (I eagerly await every episode) 😂
That ignition timing looks right to me. Saying it looks like the completely wrong numbers is so funny. The numbers are right because your getting the peak output.
If your running nitro fuel you need ALOT of timing as its such a slow burning fuel.
Looks like he's still burning model airplane engine fuel-probably about 10% nitro and an unknown % of an unknown lubricant. Besides, he claims that ignition advance is dependent upon the pipe's plugging-pulse timing. Good luck!@@MrJermbob
But the ignition timing needs to change per fuel. So lets say no pipe change, Fill a slower burning fuel, Run the dyno. It will loose power until you add the advance that fuel wants for maximum brake torque output.@@davidgierke7582
If the cylinder isn’t filling as much as you think it should or is lean, due to the stinger or the carb, the much higher timing numbers make sense to my limited knowledge. Also, the ending got me! But really take your time, we’ll enjoy the videos whenever they come out
It's always a treat to see your videos pop into my feed. You do you, brother, it's why we stick around.
Put a velocity stack on the carb, you need one, it will help make fuel delivery more linear. EGT is a good indicator of correct timing, you’ve got the sensor already, you should use it. Maybe a fan will help your youngest self-soothe at night.
..or a *Calpol* 'Night Light' ?!
100% Alex one clear decision at a time , i would've went the same steps in jetting , check mixture screw too so you have carb flow.
Yep as I've always said you'll need the right (longer) pipe for your rpm and hp.
you should run several power curves with fixed ignition for example 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 deg. Then put all the graphs together in one picture and then find the best spark advance for each engine speed....after that you program that curve in your ignition system and take another power curve on the dyno
and another idea: if there is requirement for very advanced igntion, this might mean, that your combustion is slow. There are serveral reasons possible: a lot of residual gases, low cylinder filling, little charge motion ( squish... but that you had checked..)
I can relate to the two glasses stack to read small print.drives me nuts😊
It's interesting, the quality of the comments you get indicate the appreciation of your effort.
I believe Jennings mentioned maximum timings of around 24 to 26 degrees so it looks like you are spot on the money, it has to be exhaust now out of the major parts it can be , keep up the good work I'd call this one a win
im glad to see you so exited! and the engin revs like hell :)
Put a barrel valve on the end of the stinger/tuned pipe to experiment with flow/back pressure
It would be cool to see a test drive, to see how amazing this engine runs
More like it's amazing it runs at all
@@paulb7334 are you just going through and replying negatively to any positive comments?
I wonder, just for the heck of it, you talked about and we have seen how fuel can foam up on this engine, if running a pressure pulse style fuel pump can ensure fuel flow is consistent and fuel isn't foaming up or will have the ability to foam up in the bowl. It's like the rotary valve vs reeds, you eliminate the speed of gravity or other factors to do the work but instead introduce a forced factor to ensure things are working as they should be. Either way, keep up the excellent work!!!
It would seem that your restrictor is also working as a reflector that can change the sonic pulse gate position drastically.
If you suspect fuel starvation, you might have to increase the size of the metering feed check valve in the carburetor.
Cliffhanger 😮
Just like old TV shows except the next episode isn't scheduled just appears suddenly, usually when I don't have the time to watch it right away.
maybe connect a sight glass to the carb bowl drain to verify it's staying full.
From what i have seen in this video is that the exhaust port is past the maximum surface area which isn't optainable with a oval port but is with a butterfly port at its max with and the diameter at the beginning of the exhaust is what i think way to small because with al the racing 50cc the beginning is mostly arround 28mm but you do great work and i love watching your stuf, keep up the good work
PIP , PIP , HOORAY ! 😅 Good morning pass the whiskey please .😊
I totally get "old people"!! Lol. I wear two pairs of glasses so I can see up close details all the time! You are not the only one.
now offset the crank 9 degrees from the centre line ! AND an injector . AND a port height timing cam.
With regards to your assumptions about the flow relations of the transfer and exhaust ports and the combination with the stinger pipe, my advice is to contact a CFD expert from your local university. Give them the CAD geometry and some parameters before spending years and years fiddling around. Some mathematics can solve most of the issues :)
Bigger powerjet nozzle, dual stack carburator inlet trumpet...
Gelps rigen higher rpm.. and inlet trumpet helps mid and higher rev range (smoothen intake pulse)
The exhaust port is two small. It need be tapered to any shape, because you are creating back pressure, where the chamber is suppose to do that at a specific time.
I’m not a 2stroke guy but has RPM increases you have less time for combustion so generally you want a little more ignition advanced now all this greatly depends on how well the cylinder is filling and engine load
Ignition advance required has 2 parts to it.
Part 1 is as you describe, if burn time remains the same then as RPM rises and you have less time then you have to start the burn sooner by advancing the ignition.
And in simple terms that is the case for the most part across the RPM range in a 4 stroke.
However burn time is determined by density which rises rapidly in a 2 stroke as it comes into the power band and it rises so fast that burn time becomes very short, even shorter than the time reduction of increasing RPM such that you actually need to retard the ignition advance as RPM increases in the power band at peak combustion density.
This is why you see a V"osh" type ignition timing curve in high performance 2 strokes that advances to account for engines RPM rising at the lower end and then once on the power retards back where it started.
In ye olden days we simply ran a flat base timing in 2 stroke race bikes with advance at all, the advent of programmable ignition like Alex uses allows a user to program a curve that provides optimum ignition timing throughout the RPM range that suits both rising RPM and rising density over the entire range.
2 strokes really are magic.
The fueling playing up after longer held throttle positons, sounds alike fuel frothing in the float bowl, or in the lower end of the fuel feed pipe into the bowl.
This could/might potentially be solved or reduced with a light spring, or two, inside fuel feed pipe, (a pair of small diameter stainless steel springs from a click-pens & retractable ink biros, one to fit inside the other, and both to be loose inside the fuel feed pipe, ..or small part/piece of a metallicised dish scrubber cord/pad,)
..to create a more partial-turbulent flow within the feed pipe, near it's entry into the bowl, to reduce fluid flow stability for bubbles to form; but you might need to double up the fuel feed lines to meet the rate required, with the anti-frothing spring or metallicised pad piece inserts.
Or by having a greater flow rate or larger diameter pipe & thus head pressure to counter the vibrational resonance that lessens fluidic gravity to form bubbles, of a combination of larger main feed pipe, and a springs turbulator insert.
Then again the potential 'frothing' could also, also be down to vibrations from resonance in-balances of the 'double motor' two cranks crank balances, and their secondary forces combining at some points in the rev ranges assisting in inducing frothing during longer held constant throttle durations.
Agreed. One way or another the fuel delivery system needs to be addressed-not left for some other time.
Just love how you experiment things! KEep it up Alex!
You take determination to a whole new level. Bu that's what it is going to take to get there. And you will.
1. Try any other pipe just to see gow it behaves. Slap on the Yazuni and test!
2. Add some mass to the carburetor to see if it helps vibrations! Like ziptie a steel piece to the body of it tight.
3. Take a day off 😂👌
👍Slapping on the yazuni is a great idea for a specific reason I just realized earlier today.
A small mistake has created a massive compound error.
I'll explain in the upcoming video, this time it might actually be "it".(like I haven't said that before...)
In the Piaggio Ciao the gearbox is in the rear wheel, you can vary it and drive it with one belt and you winn 4 PS
So you decided not to clean the garage until the engine is running better huh? I wonder if you are subconsciously missing something to keep from having to clean the garage. lol Maybe taking a break from the engine and cleaning the garage will give you that "ah ha" moment you need. Putting things away and reorganizing can be very Zen and allowing your mind to wander as you ponder things might just be what you need. Worst care you don't figure things out and you have a clean garage.
you got me with that last one ^^
That run that nearly doubled HP, it even sounded much better, more healthy! Going from barely 5,,HP to nearly 9hp. And all the losses there must be close to ,,30-35% more at the crank.give. the engine its own 6speed transmission. And it should really wake up.. seeing it with boost would be soo interesting!!
Video production is looking great, good job!!
Dude....................... the cliff hanger..............seriously?!!! 😱
Put a valve on the stinger and see if it runs better with some restriction. A ball valve or gate valve. Instant results.
May need to test the cylinders on a flow bench 🤷♂️👍
What fuel you using, nitro methanol? Model engines seem to make lots of power for their displacement, they also have unique transfer ports. Usually lots of em, bridged, and run all the way around the cylinder except exhaust port...They run the intake charge in through the little end of the crankshaft, which acts like a rotary valve.
Enjoy your vids, keep up the good work.
It's a pleasure, as always, to follow your journey. I have just one question: are you 100% sure about your dyno behaviour? Because listening to the engine, especially when it goes into the powerband, doesn't feel like a 8- 10 HP engine. My 2 cents from Italy!
Do you think it's more or less?
@@gazvlogs7459 more. Not 30, but not 10. Something in between.
@@FuelandFood Exciting numbers :D
Listening to an engine can be deceiving because horsepower is the product of torque and rpm. Even though an engine may sound powerful at elevated rpm, it may not be the case. Why? When torque drops off faster than the rpm increases, the horsepower will decrease.
@@davidgierke7582 all clear. But what I mean is that the engine sounds "healthy", and the reaction to big changes (like in timing) is somehow not consistent. That's why, before continuing the development, I'd check the dyno just to be 100% sure that the measurement I'm making are correct. But maybe he has already done that.
On this episode of 2StrokeConfusion...
Good to see small changes, change something then go back to best run settings, there should always be a "happy setting" that you can return to, that old test pipe is looking quite sad maybe build a new TEST pipe with more adjustability in mind, modular design
Just awesome that you're back to testing! Please fix the rear brake, though, so that it doesn't get in the way and cause something else to fail. It shouldn't take any time at all, and then you'll not have to worry about it. With the software you're using, can you annotate each run with notes? Or maybe keep a notebook right by the keyboard so you can jot down the parameters for each test? I was *so* happy to see you back to changing one thing at a time for each test. You'll make much faster progress that way. You're frequently battling the question of timing and RPM measurements; I'm wondering if a different approach would work better, like maybe a phototachometer? Might also be worth devoting a small camera (gopro, webcam, whatever) to record what's happening along the fuel line feeding the carb and the sightglass, if that carb has one, so you can tell if there are foaming problems. Someone else pointed out the vibration in the drive belt -- that's got to be lost power in addition to the friction from the belt.
I had a similar running issue where after long periods of low load it would stall when i would get on it, turned out my fuel lines were letting air bubbles into the system and starving my carburetors
on this transfer theory, remember this when you add the charger back on, you could increase the transfer and intake velocity to overpower the exhaust port sucking too hard for NA
Love your video, I've been watching since the beginning of the channel
equal power at 3/4 or possibly 1/2 throttle makes me think crank seals got beat up after the hot runs before you redesigned the rotary valve.
smoking gun would be the pipe and exhaust in general, Id say it would be absolutly top priority to properly remove the accessories on the pipe.
Ive been thinking, it might be adventitous to fab a guid rail to secure the leading edge of the rotary valve blade, to prevent lateral oscillation especially at high rpm.
It could very well be beffeting with the forces at work
is there a method to monitor peak case pressure during operation? 🤔
Thanks woob
Seems like you need more data. What sensors could be added? Exhaust temp and mixture?
Why not at least use a 150cc motor? It’s way more powerful than a 50, and yet not that much larger or heavier. I’ve souped up my 150cc Chinese scooter to insanely fast acceleration and top speeds without even altering the engine or cylinder at all. Just the carb and airflow and fuel type. It burns through gas like a jet engine and runs hots after continuous full-throttle riding, but rides like a super bike with NoS now!! So much fun to ride among car drivers on the city streets and smoke them all when our light turns Green. 😂 😂 😂
I think it’s all about the fuel consumption rate and the proportional increase in airflow the engines receive that have the best horsepower gains.
I’ve learned this from testing and modifying many different kinds of non-fuel injected motorcycles I’ve fixed and rode lately
Love your commitment and scientific approach to your project though, can’t say anything bad about that 👍
I mean you have a frickin personal DYNO for Gods sake bro! lol
Wtf
A belt drive is perfect for its simplicity but has lots of friction. But you have a CNC my boy.. try Gears! :)
Have you ever thought about getting an exhaust gas analyzer?
Let’s see how it behaves!!!
110 kph on 50cc puch is the record i made fucking with compression ratio's and racing parts, love to try your solution.. 20k rpm is like nuts.
It's great that your "tuning"...11HP and climbing!!..I too would live to see a 30 HP 50cc...maybe someday soon..If anybody does it, I believe it will be you!..Motor sounds just a little off..Not quite there but definitely in the right direction...Always reminds me of our "outlaw" MB5 races at Road Atl..in the 80's..Keep the Faith!!..👍👍👍🗽🇺🇸
here's a thought, why don't you build it like a Taurozzi Pendulum Engine so you can use your unbridged port design, the piston is fixed in its travel and your captive ring piston wont ever snag the port........just a thought
What about 3D printing or milling a clear carburetor bowl to monitor that there’s sufficient fuel? Only needs to last long enough for you to rule out there being a fuel issue there. Keep going. Love your fortitude 😊
Can you add a valve to the stinger to change the dynamics of the pipe, like a exup the yamahas used in their 4 strokes.
Im sure there is reason this is wrong, or been tried before. Like its a restriction.
Or a variable size stinger outlet that doesnt use a butterfly. Just to hep the engine to get higher in the rpm where its supposed to make power.
Or even a motor to spin the pip motor past that fall off at 18k and into that 22k sweet spot.
Yeah im fairly adhd, just thinking outside the box. 😆
Obviously a fan, cheers from australia
I didn’t go through all the comments yet but had to mention the timing. You should be increasing timing as rpms rise. The piston speed is increasing but the flame is not so you would need to advance the timing. I’m sure you got base timing right as you had a dial indicator on it and set it. Also maybe make small timing changes like a few degrees and not a 5 degree jump.
Putting a trombone slide in your exhaust would allow more power along a greater range.
Long tube for low RPM and short tube for high RPM.
Too bad he won't listen.
Do not rush back Brother ? With a sick baby in the home, all other deals are off the table, take time out to review the project so far ? ; )
Keep pushing!
NOOOOO! I need to know, did the stinger help? LOL
Have you considered getting yourself a banks data Monster ?
You record all of your fuel pressure data ( add some sensors ) and egt temps etc onto a sd card.
They look very good. ❤
Imagine this project sooner or later meet it success🥳
~But it never meant to end there.
Wait new project:
100cc v twin 70°
🤯
I always wonder if part of the issue is just a simple exhaust leak? It's losing the effective pulse
I bet your son is suffering from acid reflux. Give him some antacid just before sleep and see if it helps. My and my wife almost split due to lack of sleep for almost a year. What a godsend finding out it only needed some Tums tabs, and our daughter actually likes them.
i made the suggestion about the stinger a couple of vids ago,i think it's to big and/or to short,so this will be interesting to se
Instead of speculating ! Get transducers and a scope, then you will know what takes place in intake, cylinder, transfer ports, exhaust 😁👍
Old people" ...😂
Welcome to my world!
You should definetly do the 125cc
I am here for the madness.... that is all ;)