True but realistically there's absolutely no way he would've or anyone would've made a plastic 3D engine that would run for an extended period of time. Its just gonna melt regardless of what you do. But still it's super impressive that he managed to come this far
You need to rejet the carb. if you take the bowl off you will find two jets. One right under the throttle, called the main jet, and one in front called an idle jet. Turning that screw does basically nothing, and is only really meant to fine tune it at idle. The main jet limits fuel at high throttle, the idle jet limits fuel throughout the range. You need to go up a size or two in idle jet, and a few sizes in main jet. The needle can also be moved up or down to give it more or less fuel, and sometimes you need to change the needle out for one with a different shape in order to fine tune it so it runs good at all throttle openings, loads and rpms. Properly tuning a carb is an art, but getting it good enough to run ok is easy
Very true. Seems like it’s running too lean since with the torch it starts and runs better, doesn’t accept any throttle (this carb has no accelerator pump, it’ll lean out for a short bit when giving throttle) and sometimes backfire
Agreed but did anyone think about the carb not getting the right fuel...it is a gravity feed carb and look at how his fuel bottle is...gas isn't going to get sucked up out of that bottle without a fuel pump
@@iancampbell6002 that could also be a reason for the lean condition. Unless he’s siphoning the fuel beforehand so it pulls itself out the line and into the carb
Imperial works fine for precision machining. 44.09 mm or 1.736". Either way, you're dealing with decimals. I prefer imperial just because it's more intuitive to me.
Crazy how the engine went from running on hopes, dreams, and starter fluid to actually being able to idle on just gas. The project truly has come a long way from the blocky plastic days
This is the TH-cam I love most. No fancy 6-axis CNC machine, no fancy machinist certifications, just a dude with a $300 lathe, a cool idea, and a LOT of patience.
I’m a motorbike mechanic and specialise in classic and vintage 2 strokes and this is the first time I’ve seen someone put a 2 stroke piston in a 4 stroke set up ☺️ good on you tho for never giving up on the build 👍
Putting those bolts all the way through and down into the base was the ultimate final addition to your creation. It essentially clamped itself together. Rather Than explode itself apart from little plastic screw points. You knocked this out of the park. That lathe really came in handy
9:44 after comparing to "3 Hours of Volkswagen 1.9TDI idling ASMR, relaxing sound", I can confirm that genuinely sounds almost exactly like a 1.9 TDI idling.
My dad had one when I was younger that was passed around from person to person, by the time I was 16 I was supposed to have it as my first car, it had just shy of 600,000kms on it but the transmission died and I think it blew up its 3rd turbo. Cool cars though
The fueling problem could be related to the acceleration pump (if those tiny ones even have those). It's likely just not getting enough fuel when you give it throttle and bogs down immediately when it gets fed more air. If you ever get that working I'd love to see you try and blow it up with nitrous afterwards lol.
@@CamdenBowenThe 1.9's are still around everywhere in Europe and 600k isn't even uncommon. Decently fuel efficient and easy to repair most of the time and the manuals can take a beating. Cheap to buy here and cool to mess around with. Seen some people get almost 500hp out of them but that's a lot of work and money to put in a Seat Cupra or lead brick Passat (the B5's have no business being that heavy) lol.
I have one now, a 2000 Jetta with a manual transmission. it’s at about 475000km and going strong… in my opinion those were some of the best cars ever made. I’m pretty sure it’s on the original turbo and injectors
Definitely look into adding a crank case ventilation valve or line, just so that you don't end up with the lower end being any more of a pressure bomb than it already is with the crank trying to force it apart
8:08 My boy, you should go back in time. Engines were pretty much simple affairs back in the day. Sandwiching the bore between two plates with 4 bolts would've been sufficient. No need to weld as long as the fitment is good. 13:11 when you don't have the spreader tool, you just take a pair of scissors you don't like and cut hooks (facing outwards) into the ends. Those hooks hook into the ends of the ring and spread it. With one hand you spread the scissors and with the other you keep the ring aligned and guide it unto the cylinder.
I actually like how this transitioned from a 3D printed engine to an actual engine. I see it as a great way to prototype certain parts. You could take this even further and slowly fabricate each part in metal with plastic prototypes!
I studied machining in college, and it looks like you need some oil to lube up the cutter. The feed rate, which is turning speed and turning speed combined. Your turning speed depends on grade of medal.
My college machining instructor taught to (essentally) never use oil with carbide tooling because you could thermally shock the insert and it would break/chip. If it's not cutting well, you're looking at a feed/speed problem or a lack of rigidity. Cutting oil was exclusively used with high speed steel.
You can find such coolant doing a simple Google search of "metal cutting coolant." For the best and cheapest way is a water solvable coolant that is used by most manufacturers.
@CamdenBowen I was wondering if there would be an improvement on the chatter if you sent the boring bar into the cylinder before making contact with the Inner bore. Then feed out of the pipe.
You should consider getting an end mill. Then you can bore out a cylinder into a solid chunk of metal. You can also cut keyways. You could also make a connecting rod out of a solid chunk of metal using the mill
Congratulations on completing this project. I’ve been watching since the beginning. Your videos helped me get through really tough nights alone when I was going through chemo the past couple years. Thank you
To fix that bogging, take out the slide from the top or the carb, and there’s a needle that you need to move up. That needle blocks the main jet so at any other throttle position than wide open, it’ll have about the same AFR.
I don’t know if you still check these comments. See how it ran better on propane/when you put your fingers over the intake, that means it’s running WAY too lean. Richen up the idle screw. And also it smoked when you gave it throttle which is usually too rich. So lean out the high rev screw.
Finally seeing the engine run on gasoline is so impressive! Can't wait to see you incorporate more machining into projects! It was really interesting to see how much actually goes into making a lathe usable in the last video and how its quirks still show up... The world isn't ready for what you could create with a proper non-shaky lathe setup! I love how much I learn about engines just watching you build better versions each time! I had no idea about cross-hatching but it makes so much sense when you put it in context!
I think the timing is shifting because it sounds different throughout the video. That’s why it seems like it doesn’t want to run at the end. Although all the other problems contributed the engine not running longer. Great video and I can’t wait for the next video about this engine!
I guess it would run into its limits powering an alternator to run a few incondecand light bulbs. In fact since Wattage and Horsepower are both measurements of mechanical performance he could hook as many headlight bulbs onto it as he can find and do the math (60W per Bulb, 1000W=1,36HP)
@@Handyman1199 i think a motorized bike would be easier than a generator since you can use momentum and start the engine after the bike is already moving, so it only needs like half a horsepower to maintain speed.
@@Minty1337 I think the idea is to use the generator in lieu of a torque brake to see just how much power it actually makes. How much load before it stalls? Not necessarily as something to be the final application.
@@pauljs75 im worried this thing will break very quickly, even in the final version, so i'd personally test something like this with the final application, since it'd probably explode while being tested as a generator like that. it would be more fun to have it explode after it did something like power a motorized bike, rather than a small generator.
Those mixture screws you were adjusting are the idle mixture screws, it seems like the engine needs more fuel all together. Take the screw cap off of the top of the carb and pull the slide out, there should be a little needle coming out of the bottom of the slide. Take out that needle and you should see multiple notches cut out of the needle and a c clip. If you take the clip out and throw it into one of the lower notches it lifts the needle which lets more fuel in. If the clip is too high on the needle, the needle will sit too low in the carb it will be letting barely enough fuel in, and it will cause your idle mixture screws to only be tuned to an extent. Hope this helps👍
Congratulations for this build ! I see a lot of things I would have done in another way, but I have only modified and tuned a lot of engine not built my own... So do your things your way and keep on building cool stuff !!!
One more thing regarding the chatter on your lathe, I've literally machined thousands of rotors and drums from my days as a brake and front end mechanic. Here's what we would do to stop or reduce the chatter. We would take this elastic belt thing that had weights all the way around it and we would strap it to our rotor or drum. This works very well. Do a little research into it and I'm sure you can come up with something for your needs. ~Rich G.
I'm trying to wrap my head around your thinking of the "fuel tank" (or bottle) setup. How you have the "fuel tank" and fuel line going up out the top and back down won't work as is. The old carb had a built-in fuel pump. Since the new carb is a gravity feed system with a float bowl there is air above the fuel level inside the carb. Since there is air at the float side, no fuel will siphon down because air enters the fuel line. You need the fuel coming out of the bottom of the "fuel tank" above carb to be a GRAVITY feed. Also the "fuel tank" needs to be vented to prevent vapor lock which will also prevent fuel from flowing. I really enjoy watching your build videos so keep it up!
Thanks! Basically, there's two holes drilled in the lid. One for the outlet and the other as a vent. To prime it, you put your finger on one hole and squeeze the bottle so that the fuel travels through the line and into the carburetor, which is below the fuel level. So as the carburetor uses fuel, the rest will naturally siphon down into the float bowl. It definitely wasn't an ideal setup however it worked out alright in this application lol
@@CamdenBowen There is a reason why float bowl carburetors are not siphon feed. I'd bet if you changed your fuel "tank" to a gravity style that engine will start back up and run until a mechanical failure. Tall-tell sign of it ran out of fuel in bowl is when you needed to use propane after it ran for a while. FWIW: On only the fuel in a float bowl an engine can run/idle for 5 minutes.
Too much fuel on idle...and probably on the main jets...tighten screws all the way down...back out 2 turns...might need less since it's a big carb and a teeny bore (remember you stepped up size of carb so more fuel per stroke) So awesome to see it hammering along! Keep em coming!!!!
This project has been absolutely amazing to follow along with, I love seeing people build their own engines and how they slowly improve. You should try extending the connecting rod a little bit, to make the piston reach the very top of the cylinder. I noticed it might have been running lean, it seems like the compression is simply too low, which would reduce the vacuum at the intake, causing it to have trouble pulling fuel properly, and that would be the result of the piston not reaching the very topmost point it possibly can to get the volume as low as possible. Just an idea I thought I'd throw out there for you to try. Another idea would be to polish every surface of the intake, to make the fuel and air flow smoothly across all the surfaces which effectively allows more gas and air to enter the combustion chamber, which means more power. Edit: The carb you are using COULD be too big and may require rejetting, but if you fix the large cylinder volume at top dead center, it MAY be able to support that carb with the stock jetting, but you can only try.
Lathe open up a shit ton of options! I got really lucky and grew up in a machine shop, my father was an engineer and owned a giant inco lathe and a Bridgeport Mill from the 1940s. Let's just say I got into doing performance stuff on cars real fast! I would read more small motors on go-karts and dirt bikes. I finally was able to get the tiny hobby lobby for my shed from harbor freight but I still am looking for a tabletop now! I miss those days of machining, it was literally like art with metal
I built a vacuum engine out of Legos a while back, not quite as impressive as this, but with an oil pump and proper circulation of oil, it actually lasted over a hundred hours of runtime before the cylinders got too sloppy for the pistons to stay straight inside it. I'm very impressed with this though, you should absolutely make more engines. Make bigger engine. Water cooling. I want to see you build a car from scratch. It's always been my dream to do just that.
As soon as he said "weld", i cringed, because that beautifully milled pipe was now not gonna happen. Hey, its practice. Tuning small carbs can be a nightmare. Yours turned out great! Edit: Love your stuff, man. Very thorough, realistic videos. Thanks for showing the WHOLE process!
I’ve never seen a black iron pipe look so nice. Even the new ones usually have a little bit of rust. Fun fact, Dawn dish soap will aggressively rust black iron to a nice bright orange in like 24 hours. (Leak tested a new outdoor gas line and forgot to wipe off the soap)
That's interesting, I use dawn dish soap as a degreaser for like everything since it's so good and also not horrible for your skin lol, never would have thought
when you tune a carburetor, make sure you dont have any air leaks, mainly 3d printed parts have microscopic holes, which will make it have a bad air leak, air leaks can cause it to run away, stall, and not even start
I love this project, I've always thought about building an engine myself from scratch, and this series has taught me a lot for what I can do to make my life a bit easier
16:10 what a god damn gigachad! Look at that beauty! Edit: very impressive BTW. Small engines like that require a lot of precision. Very well done! Keep going!
19:40 based off the faced that that carb is probably for a much larger engine it might be flooding would also explain the smoke coming out of the intake when it shuts off
Awesome video! Thoroughly entertaining, enjoyable and informative. What more can you ask? Yes, you have figured out your personal, TH-cam "formula". I watched the whole thing! Good work! WANT MORE!
Youll probably get more smooth running on the engine when the exhaust tapers in and out with some bends it in. You might not have enough Decompression on the down stroke, still sounds like it's resetting the cycle HARD. That might also explain the explosive down stroke when timing starts to dither. The flywheel wants to keep going and add cycles/torque to compression, the exhaust helps by have gases for the piston to still be expelling, almost acting like an air cushion. If you revisit this, you should show levels of exhaust and differences between em ;)
Hey man a tip for putting on piston rings to make it much easier.. Were the ring split is push one side into the piston slot the lift the other edge of the ring and rotate completely around the piston and it will slot into place
you're in the great tropical southlands of canada, while i'm your neighbor to the north in alaska, and i've been able to keep my garage door open for weeks now. maybe the engine had trouble because it didn't have enough oxygen heh watching your progress has been great, thanks for keeping at it, keep 'em comin'
Awesome job man, Its fun to watch you engineer and build this this engine. The all success and failures included. build a heavier flywheel or add weights to the inside of the current one and retest. It will make everything more forgiving. then you'll be able to dial in the carb.
To mesure precisely a piston you gotta take the mesurements on it's skirt since it"s a little bit wider due to the expansion of the alloy on it's crown, the top heats up lot more than the skirt
Alot of the handbooks say to measure around 8mm from the base of the skirt to get an accurate reading, but I think they may only apply if the piston has already been used
Using a filter on the carburetor will improve the setup quite a bit since carburetors will get the fuel using vacuum. Also this seems to be running too lean since the whole thing seems so clean, so adjusting the carburetor jets will also be needed.
I love seeing this series, I hope to see more iteration on this, I'd love to see you try to replace the remaining plastic parts with metal parts within the tools you have.
I use a similar carburetor for my 4-stroke kart engine. It’s 206 cc. Set the carburetor to 0.746 and turn the idle screw to 1.5-2 turns out. Then, set the idle to ~2,000 rpm.
It’s absolutely insane to see the amount of work it takes to make something comparable to a big weedwacker you could buy at lowes for abt $150. Good work though, reminds of of iron man, “he made this in a CAVE with a box of SCRAPS”
Bro so cool! been watching this series from the story and I love how this eloves! I would really like to see atleast another video with this engine when you will upgrade it to its max so cool keep going! :D
I wrote this a while back on your VVT video: "I would also like to see one scaled up and used in a small vehicle, like a dirtbike, four wheeler, or gokart." are you still thinking about doing this? It had ~200 likes and got a heart from you, so I believe you saw it.
Certainly an interesting idea to just use a toob from the store as the cylinder "bank". Also, I noticed the bits of music in the video, nice touch! Keep up the good stuff man! : )
if you ever want to make the engine larger, use some DOM steel pipe, there's no ridge in it, and is already smoth. might just need a honing and your good!
9:39 if you can find a way to attach your part to the cross slide you can use your lathe as a sideways mill, you only have 2 axies and it's by no means a replacement but it can work in a pinch. I have not tried this but ive heard it works so do your research before trying oh one thing to mention, you should really use a 4 jaw or collet chuck for this to reduce tool runout or your going to be snapping a lot of endmills or making an arbor every time you want to mount something, most tools like 1/4 and 1/2 inch endmills only really want to see 1-3 thou chipload and runout really fugs that up, you should aim for about 2-3 tenths (.0002-.0003) MAX less is better but it's hard to reach those numbers, bigger tools can handle more run out but still, keep it small, for facings and such id stick to a 1-2 inch face mill if your gonna use a 3 jaw but be careful since ik they can have runout up to 5 or more thou. plus it's better to tap on tool steel than carbide or hss.
surely part of the explode-y block problem is down to positive crankcase pressure? allowing a crankcase breather should give a more stable run due to lower crankcase pressure on detonation stroke which would oppose the piston somewhat
4:00 The chatter got a machinist rule. We call it 4D. If you got a boring bar that is 12mm in diameter. You can absolute max let it stick out 58mm with variable spindle speed and good cutting conditions. If it is not optimal then the max is usually 3D or less. I prefer to always try to have the tool at 2D for maximum rigidity. The same rule applies with the bar sticking out of the lathe. If you got both a bar or tube that sticks out a lot then the cutting tool needs to be perfectly rigid. So always try to have the least amount of sickout possible.
As others have mentioned you need to adjust the carburetor and possibly try different jet sizes to help the engine run better at higher RPMs. If it still has issues then you may also want to develop a way to change the ignition timing while the engine is running. The air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber needs time to ignite and spread evenly. Ideally this happens as the piston reaches TDC. But at higher RPMs there is less time for this ignition and spread to occur and the piston may already be moving down by the time it completes thus reducing power. It is necessary to advance the timing so that ignition begins earlier to compensate for the reduced combustion time at high RPMs. Also, since clear coating the block prevented oil seepage perhaps you retry the water cooling system you made earlier and use the clearcoat to prevent leaks? Covering the inside of the water jacket with a thin layer of epoxy resin could also work.
I've been really enjoying watching you learn by trial and error. It's classic experimenting! ....Just please stop using pliers to tighten the nuts. From the look of your garage you have a freedom or metric set of spanners in there some where. The reason I say this is if you ever start working on non plastic engines tightening bolts correctly is important which is why there is torque wrenches however you develop a feel for torque/tightness. As a fellow 3d printer prototyper you also get a feel for what the plastic takes torque wise. I removed the rear drum brakes on my Ford Capri and developed a rear disk brake setup all 3D printed then got the parts CNC machined.
A quick fix for an overly lean carburettor is the tape method. Tape over the entire intake and start poking holes in it until the engine runs better. Maybe if you wanted to try taking a break from a full petrol engine you could try doing a 3D printed Nitro engine. It's all the same stuff without having to worry about spark timing. Nitro engines are usually much smaller though so that could present new challenges.
to fix the issue with heating, if you cant add a radiator, then maybe a water jacket around the cylinder. it could help with keeping temps under control
I think you’ve officially gone from “building a 3D printed engine” to “building an engine”!
still interesting but its 3d printed in the same way a gun is, it doesn't need any precisely made parts just some lightly machined metal
True but realistically there's absolutely no way he would've or anyone would've made a plastic 3D engine that would run for an extended period of time. Its just gonna melt regardless of what you do. But still it's super impressive that he managed to come this far
Love how this project evolves from 80% 3d printed plastic parts to like 20% 😂
almost as if plastic is not a suitable material for combustion engines.
@@Görkem-x5hit isn’t?
@@Görkem-x5h how could we have known this!?
fire + plastic = melt, who would have wonderd?
the 3d printed parts were still critical to its development, so I think it still counts.
You need to rejet the carb. if you take the bowl off you will find two jets. One right under the throttle, called the main jet, and one in front called an idle jet. Turning that screw does basically nothing, and is only really meant to fine tune it at idle. The main jet limits fuel at high throttle, the idle jet limits fuel throughout the range. You need to go up a size or two in idle jet, and a few sizes in main jet. The needle can also be moved up or down to give it more or less fuel, and sometimes you need to change the needle out for one with a different shape in order to fine tune it so it runs good at all throttle openings, loads and rpms. Properly tuning a carb is an art, but getting it good enough to run ok is easy
This
Agreed
Very true. Seems like it’s running too lean since with the torch it starts and runs better, doesn’t accept any throttle (this carb has no accelerator pump, it’ll lean out for a short bit when giving throttle) and sometimes backfire
Agreed but did anyone think about the carb not getting the right fuel...it is a gravity feed carb and look at how his fuel bottle is...gas isn't going to get sucked up out of that bottle without a fuel pump
@@iancampbell6002 that could also be a reason for the lean condition. Unless he’s siphoning the fuel beforehand so it pulls itself out the line and into the carb
I love the switch from freedom units at buying to metric for precision machining
I'm from Canada so trust me, I hate imperial as much as the next guy ahah
Imperial works fine for precision machining. 44.09 mm or 1.736". Either way, you're dealing with decimals. I prefer imperial just because it's more intuitive to me.
the lathe is probably metric
Imperial measurement was around before the land of freedom was stolen
@@murmaider2 IDK if I'd trust the dials on the lathe tbh :D
just fyi, you can make the case 200% the current strength in the axis it's shearing just by rotating the print on its side
I have no idea how I forgot about that
I was thinking the same thing but I've never 3d printed. I have a feeling we will see that next episode.
@@Roy-al-Paign if you want a semi-scientific breakdown of it cnc kitchen has a great series on alot of this stuff
@@CamdenBowen Layer adhesion is the one property I always forget about with mechanical prints, it's okay
Crazy how the engine went from running on hopes, dreams, and starter fluid to actually being able to idle on just gas.
The project truly has come a long way from the blocky plastic days
This is the TH-cam I love most. No fancy 6-axis CNC machine, no fancy machinist certifications, just a dude with a $300 lathe, a cool idea, and a LOT of patience.
I’m a motorbike mechanic and specialise in classic and vintage 2 strokes and this is the first time I’ve seen someone put a 2 stroke piston in a 4 stroke set up ☺️ good on you tho for never giving up on the build 👍
Putting those bolts all the way through and down into the base was the ultimate final addition to your creation. It essentially clamped itself together. Rather Than explode itself apart from little plastic screw points. You knocked this out of the park. That lathe really came in handy
“But I figure if there’s both fuel in the engine and in the fuel then I’ll be okay.” I haven’t ever laughed so hard at an engineering video I love it
9:44 after comparing to "3 Hours of Volkswagen 1.9TDI idling ASMR, relaxing sound", I can confirm that genuinely sounds almost exactly like a 1.9 TDI idling.
My dad had one when I was younger that was passed around from person to person, by the time I was 16 I was supposed to have it as my first car, it had just shy of 600,000kms on it but the transmission died and I think it blew up its 3rd turbo. Cool cars though
The fueling problem could be related to the acceleration pump (if those tiny ones even have those). It's likely just not getting enough fuel when you give it throttle and bogs down immediately when it gets fed more air. If you ever get that working I'd love to see you try and blow it up with nitrous afterwards lol.
@@CamdenBowenThe 1.9's are still around everywhere in Europe and 600k isn't even uncommon. Decently fuel efficient and easy to repair most of the time and the manuals can take a beating. Cheap to buy here and cool to mess around with. Seen some people get almost 500hp out of them but that's a lot of work and money to put in a Seat Cupra or lead brick Passat (the B5's have no business being that heavy) lol.
I have one now, a 2000 Jetta with a manual transmission. it’s at about 475000km and going strong… in my opinion those were some of the best cars ever made. I’m pretty sure it’s on the original turbo and injectors
Insta-liked faster than I ever have.
Used to have a friend named Camden, he’s no longer with us. I miss him, he was a good man.
Rest in Peace, Camden.
Definitely look into adding a crank case ventilation valve or line, just so that you don't end up with the lower end being any more of a pressure bomb than it already is with the crank trying to force it apart
8:08 My boy, you should go back in time. Engines were pretty much simple affairs back in the day. Sandwiching the bore between two plates with 4 bolts would've been sufficient. No need to weld as long as the fitment is good.
13:11 when you don't have the spreader tool, you just take a pair of scissors you don't like and cut hooks (facing outwards) into the ends. Those hooks hook into the ends of the ring and spread it. With one hand you spread the scissors and with the other you keep the ring aligned and guide it unto the cylinder.
Genuinely underrated channel
That is so awesome, I've been wishing for years for someone on youtube to build their own engine, great job getting it to run.
its too emotional to see her running 🥲
I actually like how this transitioned from a 3D printed engine to an actual engine. I see it as a great way to prototype certain parts. You could take this even further and slowly fabricate each part in metal with plastic prototypes!
I studied machining in college, and it looks like you need some oil to lube up the cutter. The feed rate, which is turning speed and turning speed combined. Your turning speed depends on grade of medal.
My college machining instructor taught to (essentally) never use oil with carbide tooling because you could thermally shock the insert and it would break/chip. If it's not cutting well, you're looking at a feed/speed problem or a lack of rigidity. Cutting oil was exclusively used with high speed steel.
@@ZoomZoom8th then I guess it would be better to use coolant in instead. Which can be bought fairly easily.
In the beginning I was using wd40 as a cutting fluid, but later I found out that an old bottle of power steering fluid worked surprisingly well
You can find such coolant doing a simple Google search of "metal cutting coolant." For the best and cheapest way is a water solvable coolant that is used by most manufacturers.
@CamdenBowen I was wondering if there would be an improvement on the chatter if you sent the boring bar into the cylinder before making contact with the Inner bore. Then feed out of the pipe.
You should consider getting an end mill. Then you can bore out a cylinder into a solid chunk of metal. You can also cut keyways. You could also make a connecting rod out of a solid chunk of metal using the mill
I love the bringus studios style editing, gets me every time
Congratulations on completing this project. I’ve been watching since the beginning. Your videos helped me get through really tough nights alone when I was going through chemo the past couple years.
Thank you
It means a lot man that you would share that, I hope that things are going well with you man!
To fix that bogging, take out the slide from the top or the carb, and there’s a needle that you need to move up. That needle blocks the main jet so at any other throttle position than wide open, it’ll have about the same AFR.
This series should be called "3D Printed engine becomes more and more metal"
I don’t know if you still check these comments. See how it ran better on propane/when you put your fingers over the intake, that means it’s running WAY too lean. Richen up the idle screw. And also it smoked when you gave it throttle which is usually too rich. So lean out the high rev screw.
Finally seeing the engine run on gasoline is so impressive!
Can't wait to see you incorporate more machining into projects! It was really interesting to see how much actually goes into making a lathe usable in the last video and how its quirks still show up...
The world isn't ready for what you could create with a proper non-shaky lathe setup!
I love how much I learn about engines just watching you build better versions each time! I had no idea about cross-hatching but it makes so much sense when you put it in context!
Haven't watched the video, can already tell it's a banger.
I think the timing is shifting because it sounds different throughout the video. That’s why it seems like it doesn’t want to run at the end. Although all the other problems contributed the engine not running longer. Great video and I can’t wait for the next video about this engine!
make an engine that gets 100 running hours, I would love to see you try to do some reliability engineering
Your welds are like the Crocs of welding and i love it.
i cant wait to see this engine actually doing work, running something, but i don't know what at this scale, maybe a motorized bike?
I guess it would run into its limits powering an alternator to run a few incondecand light bulbs. In fact since Wattage and Horsepower are both measurements of mechanical performance he could hook as many headlight bulbs onto it as he can find and do the math (60W per Bulb, 1000W=1,36HP)
run generator to power a 3d printer that will print a part for that engine. 3d printing engine.
@@Handyman1199 i think a motorized bike would be easier than a generator since you can use momentum and start the engine after the bike is already moving, so it only needs like half a horsepower to maintain speed.
@@Minty1337 I think the idea is to use the generator in lieu of a torque brake to see just how much power it actually makes. How much load before it stalls? Not necessarily as something to be the final application.
@@pauljs75 im worried this thing will break very quickly, even in the final version, so i'd personally test something like this with the final application, since it'd probably explode while being tested as a generator like that. it would be more fun to have it explode after it did something like power a motorized bike, rather than a small generator.
please never stop improving this engine
was waiting these last few days for it to drop lolz
The screw closest to the front of carb is an air Mix screw. The one further back is fuel mixture. Try adjusting while running. Love these videos!
0:43 Missed opportunity.
metal_pipe.mp3
That is OFFICIALLY an idle! Most people never get even remotely this far in their engine from scratch projects! Incredibly well done!
Thanks for sticking around this far :)
@@CamdenBowen Of course! It's been an amazing ride so far and I can't wait to see where it take us next!
The engine looks really cool, good work but could you mabey make it a 2t
WOW im so glad to see this return!!!!
1 hour TBO engine
Those mixture screws you were adjusting are the idle mixture screws, it seems like the engine needs more fuel all together. Take the screw cap off of the top of the carb and pull the slide out, there should be a little needle coming out of the bottom of the slide. Take out that needle and you should see multiple notches cut out of the needle and a c clip. If you take the clip out and throw it into one of the lower notches it lifts the needle which lets more fuel in. If the clip is too high on the needle, the needle will sit too low in the carb it will be letting barely enough fuel in, and it will cause your idle mixture screws to only be tuned to an extent. Hope this helps👍
Cool... now make a w24
Congratulations for this build ! I see a lot of things I would have done in another way, but I have only modified and tuned a lot of engine not built my own... So do your things your way and keep on building cool stuff !!!
I will do 1 push up for every like
No
3.1 thousand?
On ur comment or on the video?
@@River-Stockman?
Comment
Safety-Squints engaged. 17:51 - Awesome project man.
One more thing regarding the chatter on your lathe, I've literally machined thousands of rotors and drums from my days as a brake and front end mechanic. Here's what we would do to stop or reduce the chatter. We would take this elastic belt thing that had weights all the way around it and we would strap it to our rotor or drum. This works very well. Do a little research into it and I'm sure you can come up with something for your needs.
~Rich G.
I'm trying to wrap my head around your thinking of the "fuel tank" (or bottle) setup. How you have the "fuel tank" and fuel line going up out the top and back down won't work as is. The old carb had a built-in fuel pump. Since the new carb is a gravity feed system with a float bowl there is air above the fuel level inside the carb. Since there is air at the float side, no fuel will siphon down because air enters the fuel line. You need the fuel coming out of the bottom of the "fuel tank" above carb to be a GRAVITY feed. Also the "fuel tank" needs to be vented to prevent vapor lock which will also prevent fuel from flowing. I really enjoy watching your build videos so keep it up!
Thanks! Basically, there's two holes drilled in the lid. One for the outlet and the other as a vent. To prime it, you put your finger on one hole and squeeze the bottle so that the fuel travels through the line and into the carburetor, which is below the fuel level. So as the carburetor uses fuel, the rest will naturally siphon down into the float bowl. It definitely wasn't an ideal setup however it worked out alright in this application lol
@@CamdenBowen There is a reason why float bowl carburetors are not siphon feed. I'd bet if you changed your fuel "tank" to a gravity style that engine will start back up and run until a mechanical failure. Tall-tell sign of it ran out of fuel in bowl is when you needed to use propane after it ran for a while. FWIW: On only the fuel in a float bowl an engine can run/idle for 5 minutes.
Too much fuel on idle...and probably on the main jets...tighten screws all the way down...back out 2 turns...might need less since it's a big carb and a teeny bore (remember you stepped up size of carb so more fuel per stroke)
So awesome to see it hammering along!
Keep em coming!!!!
This project has been absolutely amazing to follow along with, I love seeing people build their own engines and how they slowly improve.
You should try extending the connecting rod a little bit, to make the piston reach the very top of the cylinder. I noticed it might have been running lean, it seems like the compression is simply too low, which would reduce the vacuum at the intake, causing it to have trouble pulling fuel properly, and that would be the result of the piston not reaching the very topmost point it possibly can to get the volume as low as possible. Just an idea I thought I'd throw out there for you to try.
Another idea would be to polish every surface of the intake, to make the fuel and air flow smoothly across all the surfaces which effectively allows more gas and air to enter the combustion chamber, which means more power.
Edit: The carb you are using COULD be too big and may require rejetting, but if you fix the large cylinder volume at top dead center, it MAY be able to support that carb with the stock jetting, but you can only try.
I appreciate all the hours of work put into just this video, let alone the whole series.
Lathe open up a shit ton of options! I got really lucky and grew up in a machine shop, my father was an engineer and owned a giant inco lathe and a Bridgeport Mill from the 1940s. Let's just say I got into doing performance stuff on cars real fast! I would read more small motors on go-karts and dirt bikes. I finally was able to get the tiny hobby lobby for my shed from harbor freight but I still am looking for a tabletop now! I miss those days of machining, it was literally like art with metal
The ol' round homemade nuts😂! I've done plenty of those when in a hurry
I built a vacuum engine out of Legos a while back, not quite as impressive as this, but with an oil pump and proper circulation of oil, it actually lasted over a hundred hours of runtime before the cylinders got too sloppy for the pistons to stay straight inside it.
I'm very impressed with this though, you should absolutely make more engines. Make bigger engine. Water cooling. I want to see you build a car from scratch. It's always been my dream to do just that.
As soon as he said "weld", i cringed, because that beautifully milled pipe was now not gonna happen. Hey, its practice. Tuning small carbs can be a nightmare. Yours turned out great!
Edit: Love your stuff, man. Very thorough, realistic videos. Thanks for showing the WHOLE process!
I'm from Spain. I immediately recognized the song "Calles de Sevilla" in 14:48 I have 100% more respect for you now
You guys have fire music
@@CamdenBowen You're so cool :3
I’ve never seen a black iron pipe look so nice. Even the new ones usually have a little bit of rust.
Fun fact, Dawn dish soap will aggressively rust black iron to a nice bright orange in like 24 hours. (Leak tested a new outdoor gas line and forgot to wipe off the soap)
That's interesting, I use dawn dish soap as a degreaser for like everything since it's so good and also not horrible for your skin lol, never would have thought
when you tune a carburetor, make sure you dont have any air leaks, mainly 3d printed parts have microscopic holes, which will make it have a bad air leak, air leaks can cause it to run away, stall, and not even start
I love this project, I've always thought about building an engine myself from scratch, and this series has taught me a lot for what I can do to make my life a bit easier
i've been waiting this video since months, thank you Bowen
Hell yeah I’m so glad you’re going with stronger materials and it’s actually working and running on gas love these videos also your voice is nice
16:10 what a god damn gigachad! Look at that beauty!
Edit: very impressive BTW. Small engines like that require a lot of precision. Very well done! Keep going!
19:40 based off the faced that that carb is probably for a much larger engine it might be flooding would also explain the smoke coming out of the intake when it shuts off
Awesome video! Thoroughly entertaining, enjoyable and informative. What more can you ask? Yes, you have figured out your personal, TH-cam "formula". I watched the whole thing! Good work! WANT MORE!
I appreciate the amount of work it took to make this. Keep doing what you’re doing!
Youll probably get more smooth running on the engine when the exhaust tapers in and out with some bends it in. You might not have enough Decompression on the down stroke, still sounds like it's resetting the cycle HARD. That might also explain the explosive down stroke when timing starts to dither. The flywheel wants to keep going and add cycles/torque to compression, the exhaust helps by have gases for the piston to still be expelling, almost acting like an air cushion. If you revisit this, you should show levels of exhaust and differences between em ;)
Hey man a tip for putting on piston rings to make it much easier.. Were the ring split is push one side into the piston slot the lift the other edge of the ring and rotate completely around the piston and it will slot into place
you're in the great tropical southlands of canada, while i'm your neighbor to the north in alaska, and i've been able to keep my garage door open for weeks now. maybe the engine had trouble because it didn't have enough oxygen heh
watching your progress has been great, thanks for keeping at it, keep 'em comin'
Awesome job man, Its fun to watch you engineer and build this this engine. The all success and failures included. build a heavier flywheel or add weights to the inside of the current one and retest. It will make everything more forgiving. then you'll be able to dial in the carb.
When you eventually get to turbojet engines, things are going to get nuts lol. This is mighty impressive!
Never seen anyone use an unlit torch to run an engine… inspiring!!!
As always, a great video with a right balance of humour, honesty and pathos! Thank you.
@@stormrider8236 thank you!
Same I'm currently working on a 3D printed 4 cylinder gas engine but I'm only telling you and the max rpm is 10000 rpm
To mesure precisely a piston you gotta take the mesurements on it's skirt since it"s a little bit wider due to the expansion of the alloy on it's crown, the top heats up lot more than the skirt
Alot of the handbooks say to measure around 8mm from the base of the skirt to get an accurate reading, but I think they may only apply if the piston has already been used
Pistons are made from the same alloy top to bottom
@@alexstromberg7696 Yes but since the top has lot more material, it expands wider than the skirt, that's what i've been teached in mechanic school
Using a filter on the carburetor will improve the setup quite a bit since carburetors will get the fuel using vacuum. Also this seems to be running too lean since the whole thing seems so clean, so adjusting the carburetor jets will also be needed.
I love seeing this series, I hope to see more iteration on this, I'd love to see you try to replace the remaining plastic parts with metal parts within the tools you have.
I use a similar carburetor for my 4-stroke kart engine. It’s 206 cc. Set the carburetor to 0.746 and turn the idle screw to 1.5-2 turns out. Then, set the idle to ~2,000 rpm.
This channel is going to become in how to build your own engine, loving it
It’s absolutely insane to see the amount of work it takes to make something comparable to a big weedwacker you could buy at lowes for abt $150. Good work though, reminds of of iron man, “he made this in a CAVE with a box of SCRAPS”
Bro so cool! been watching this series from the story and I love how this eloves! I would really like to see atleast another video with this engine when you will upgrade it to its max so cool keep going! :D
Thank you for keeping this series going. I've been so looking forward to it
I just had a similar problem at work boring out a 1" hole to within 0.005". I've found that cutting the RPM down can help dramatically.
I wrote this a while back on your VVT video: "I would also like to see one scaled up and used in a small vehicle, like a dirtbike, four wheeler, or gokart." are you still thinking about doing this? It had ~200 likes and got a heart from you, so I believe you saw it.
I am believe me, I just need to make a reliable engine first lol
Got to love how many stupid mistake sand mishaps you don't edit out, makes me feel better about how much i worse i am at machining
HE DID IT. FINALLY. This is dope.
Brilliant work can every upload you push into new territory for greater performance! This is epic 😎
You need ignition advance via flyweights and ideally a vacuum diaphragm, in addition to tuning the jets on the carb.
Certainly an interesting idea to just use a toob from the store as the cylinder "bank". Also, I noticed the bits of music in the video, nice touch! Keep up the good stuff man! : )
Using needlenose pliers to tighten nuts. Takes me back to my crazy 90s kid projects!
Silicone based oil is good for plastics.
Regular oil will eat through plastic.
So maybe you could try using something like WD-40 silicone.
Yes!!!!! Been following this project from the beginning and I gotta say I’m impressed asf!
I’ve been following this series and this is actually so inspiring, good work!
if you ever want to make the engine larger, use some DOM steel pipe, there's no ridge in it, and is already smoth. might just need a honing and your good!
9:39 if you can find a way to attach your part to the cross slide you can use your lathe as a sideways mill, you only have 2 axies and it's by no means a replacement but it can work in a pinch. I have not tried this but ive heard it works so do your research before trying
oh one thing to mention, you should really use a 4 jaw or collet chuck for this to reduce tool runout or your going to be snapping a lot of endmills or making an arbor every time you want to mount something, most tools like 1/4 and 1/2 inch endmills only really want to see 1-3 thou chipload and runout really fugs that up, you should aim for about 2-3 tenths (.0002-.0003) MAX less is better but it's hard to reach those numbers, bigger tools can handle more run out but still, keep it small, for facings and such id stick to a 1-2 inch face mill if your gonna use a 3 jaw but be careful since ik they can have runout up to 5 or more thou. plus it's better to tap on tool steel than carbide or hss.
surely part of the explode-y block problem is down to positive crankcase pressure? allowing a crankcase breather should give a more stable run due to lower crankcase pressure on detonation stroke which would oppose the piston somewhat
I'm really loving seeing Jaguar/Range Rover innovating new reliability technology with 3D printing, good job Camden.
Hell yeah dude, nice work. love your engine vids!
4:00 The chatter got a machinist rule. We call it 4D. If you got a boring bar that is 12mm in diameter. You can absolute max let it stick out 58mm with variable spindle speed and good cutting conditions.
If it is not optimal then the max is usually 3D or less. I prefer to always try to have the tool at 2D for maximum rigidity. The same rule applies with the bar sticking out of the lathe. If you got both a bar or tube that sticks out a lot then the cutting tool needs to be perfectly rigid. So always try to have the least amount of sickout possible.
As others have mentioned you need to adjust the carburetor and possibly try different jet sizes to help the engine run better at higher RPMs. If it still has issues then you may also want to develop a way to change the ignition timing while the engine is running. The air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber needs time to ignite and spread evenly. Ideally this happens as the piston reaches TDC. But at higher RPMs there is less time for this ignition and spread to occur and the piston may already be moving down by the time it completes thus reducing power. It is necessary to advance the timing so that ignition begins earlier to compensate for the reduced combustion time at high RPMs. Also, since clear coating the block prevented oil seepage perhaps you retry the water cooling system you made earlier and use the clearcoat to prevent leaks? Covering the inside of the water jacket with a thin layer of epoxy resin could also work.
I've been really enjoying watching you learn by trial and error. It's classic experimenting! ....Just please stop using pliers to tighten the nuts. From the look of your garage you have a freedom or metric set of spanners in there some where. The reason I say this is if you ever start working on non plastic engines tightening bolts correctly is important which is why there is torque wrenches however you develop a feel for torque/tightness. As a fellow 3d printer prototyper you also get a feel for what the plastic takes torque wise. I removed the rear drum brakes on my Ford Capri and developed a rear disk brake setup all 3D printed then got the parts CNC machined.
A quick fix for an overly lean carburettor is the tape method. Tape over the entire intake and start poking holes in it until the engine runs better. Maybe if you wanted to try taking a break from a full petrol engine you could try doing a 3D printed Nitro engine. It's all the same stuff without having to worry about spark timing. Nitro engines are usually much smaller though so that could present new challenges.
to fix the issue with heating, if you cant add a radiator, then maybe a water jacket around the cylinder. it could help with keeping temps under control
man, those sound effects are more than awesome.
amazing video, you are easily on my top 10 favorite channels. i wonder what comes next.