I bought a new stihl chainsaw 250 and the first thing I did was flood it, so removed the spark plug and with it in run position cranked it over a few times, cleaned the spark plug put it back in and it started in the run position. My old 170 is a little different. Lesson learned i guess
Do you mean how to start a flooded chainsaw? Or do you mean how to start a saw sitting on the floor? I would be happy to do a video on it. Thank you for the support!
Another problem with this new chainsaw is or was is how the bar oil poured out when not running. I took it back to the dealer and they replaced the oil cap 2 times and they put a die in the oil to see where it was leaking. When I picked it up there was oil everywhere and they were done talking about it. When I got home I drained the tank and left it empty until I decide to run it, then I will fill it up again.
I'm almost certain the oil is just seeping from the oiler hole. This is caused by pressure building up in the oil tank. The reason this happens more with newer chainsaws is because bar oil and fuel tank vents now have tighter compliance standards emissions. There are two solutions to your problem. 1- When storing your chainsaw, empty the oil tank. No oil, no leak. 2- When storing your chainsaw, lay it flat with the chain side down, oil fill cap facing up. Then slightly loosen the oil filler cap to remove pressure. Leave the cap slightly loose. This will stop pressure buildup and leakage Thanks again for your comments and view..
That's the hard way to start it. Here's how I do it. Put saw on full choke. Pull cord slowly and make 4-6 pops. Flip switch to start. Pull hard like you've got a pair and it will usually start in 1 or 2 pulls.
@@chainsawace1777 Just curious if you've tried it this way. I figured it out from watching different TH-cam channels. I seen a few doing it and I was like hmm. Priming the fuel with the carb itself since they don't have a primer bulb.
Forgot to mention this is on a 180 PSI 660 big bore pop up piston build of mine. No base gasket just a whiff of Hondabond. Gutted Hyway Dual Port Muffler. She rips nice at the 12,000rpm it's adjusted to (kept it a little rich for break in)
I always went from full choke to run. Thanks for showing me the correct way to start my stihl.
I bought a new stihl chainsaw 250 and the first thing I did was flood it, so removed the spark plug and with it in run position cranked it over a few times, cleaned the spark plug put it back in and it started in the run position. My old 170 is a little different. Lesson learned i guess
Hey Jake. Thanks for the comment and the view.
Sometimes certain saws are easier to flood than others.
What is your starting procedure?
Nice video
Thanks for watching.
Like the view
Thanks man!
The easiest way I’ve found to start a saw that’s difficult to start…is to let someone else start it!😂
Yeah, that works too! Thanks for watching. Really appreciate it!
How do you start a floored saw.
Do you mean how to start a flooded chainsaw? Or do you mean how to start a saw sitting on the floor? I would be happy to do a video on it. Thank you for the support!
Another problem with this new chainsaw is or was is how the bar oil poured out when not running. I took it back to the dealer and they replaced the oil cap 2 times and they put a die in the oil to see where it was leaking. When I picked it up there was oil everywhere and they were done talking about it. When I got home I drained the tank and left it empty until I decide to run it, then I will fill it up again.
I'm almost certain the oil is just seeping from the oiler hole.
This is caused by pressure building up in the oil tank.
The reason this happens more with newer chainsaws is because bar oil and fuel tank vents now have tighter compliance standards emissions.
There are two solutions to your problem.
1- When storing your chainsaw, empty the oil tank. No oil, no leak.
2- When storing your chainsaw, lay it flat with the chain side down, oil fill cap facing up. Then slightly loosen the oil filler cap to remove pressure. Leave the cap slightly loose. This will stop pressure buildup and leakage
Thanks again for your comments and view..
That's the hard way to start it. Here's how I do it. Put saw on full choke. Pull cord slowly and make 4-6 pops. Flip switch to start. Pull hard like you've got a pair and it will usually start in 1 or 2 pulls.
Thank you for the feedback. Thanks for watching!
@@chainsawace1777 Just curious if you've tried it this way. I figured it out from watching different TH-cam channels. I seen a few doing it and I was like hmm. Priming the fuel with the carb itself since they don't have a primer bulb.
Forgot to mention this is on a 180 PSI 660 big bore pop up piston build of mine. No base gasket just a whiff of Hondabond. Gutted Hyway Dual Port Muffler. She rips nice at the 12,000rpm it's adjusted to (kept it a little rich for break in)