How to Change Engine, Transmission & Final Drive Fluids on BMW Motorcycle R1150R
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- Wheel Stories becomes the owner of another BMW R1150R Roadster and must replace all of the fluids before doing some serious riding on the newly acquired motorcycle. Learn how to change the engine oil and filter, the transmission fluid and final drive fluid on your BMW motorcycle by watching this video.
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#WheelStories #BMWR1150R #HowToServiceBMWMotorcycle - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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It’s comforting to see you “wrench” tightening and not going on about torque specs
Hello there! I know that this video has been here a while, but I just wanted to tell you "thank you". I have owned an '04 r1150r for a year now and am quite competent at changing the fluids thanks to this video. I'm grateful. I enjoy your travel videos.
Excellent. Thanks for the feedback and for watching the channel.
Great presentation of the material, efficiently laid out, just the facts without a lot of unnecessary comments and gibberish seen in so many vids.
Glad you found the video informative. Thanks for watching and leaving the comment.
Perfect 5 minute video. Thank you for not wasting my time. Video included useful information and was well edited.
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for this video; very helpful! About to change the fluids in my 2001 R1150GS; really appreciate your work!
Thanks for the tip on Module Master. Sounds like a good option on the ABS repair.
Hellos everyone, I've got two R1150R's, and red and silver, and really love the bikes. One of them with only 13K miles is acting like the clutch is slipping under heavy load or when accelerating up around the 5k rpm range. At first I thought that it could one of many things like overfilled master cylinder, worn clutch, weak clutch spring, slave cylinder seal, crank seal, and I now don't think that it's any of those. There are no leaks anywhere, the master cylinder fluid is clear and not draining down, no leaks under the bike, no leaks around the slave cylinder, no leaks out of the swingarm or final drive. When the bike is cold the "slipping clutch" isn't so noticeable but after the bike has been running it's more noticeable. If I go easy on the acceleration, the bike rides fine and has strong engine braking. So I found a thread online about the driveshaft having issues with the Torsion Dampener built in that basically connects the two piece shaft together, and that it can start to breakdown and weaken the bond between the two halves. This would explain it if that is truly a possibility. Has anyone heard of this or dealt with this? If so I wonder if it can be repaired or am I looking for a new or used driveshaft. I see some used ones on ebay for $100-$300. New ones are $1,000 +/- How crazy is that....a two piece driveshaft bonded together with rubber or some polymer. BMW calls it a "Torsion Dampener" so I'm guessing that it's supposed to soften the blow to the drivetrain. I'm sure that it's not supposed to move otherwise the U-Joints would get out of phase and balance. Please comment here or reach out to me via email at WMBS@ROADRUNNER.COM Thank you!
Simple and to the point! Easily can do this maintenance in an afternoon!
Yes. The BMW is relatively easy to maintain. Thanks for watching and posting the comment.
What a nice clean R1150R! I also have one, I absolutely love it, I never want anything else, so well made. Thanks for the tips.
The R1150R is an excellent value today on the used market. Take good care of the BMW and it will run for a very long time. I love the bike. Thanks for watching and leaving the comment.
Best instructional video out there on the R1150R! Thank you!!
Thanks for the positive feedback.
Great video young man, I have looked at a few, and find yours easy to follow & to the point related to the changing out the fluids!
Much appreciated!
Great info. Thanks
I've done exactly as You described. Nice manual. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Greetings from Poland!!
You are welcome! Glad you liked the video.
Well done with this vid, very helpful, thanks a lot! (y)
Certainly. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any follow up questions. Best regards.
Great Video
Thanks for the visit
Thanks a lot for this! I was almost sure, that I'll let the BMW dealer to do it for me, but now I think I can manage ;) I bought R1150R as my first bike (after not riding 15years) and it is amazing, maybe not the best bike for the beginner like me, but managable for sure. Always get compliments and questions if it is brand new, well it is not, it is just well mantained, they age pretty well ... Rubber side down, and many happy miles!
The maintenance isn't very difficult. One recommendation that I didn't discuss in the video, I'd suggest reviewing the specifications on quantities for the oils. In the owners manual. How much exactly to pour in. I've done it so many times I have a good sense without measuring. But measuring is a good idea. Also torque specifications on tightening the caps. If you tighten the caps appropriately, they will hold but come off easily when you change the oils the next time. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Hi there, thanks for your story about changing oil on a nice clean bike. BTW, I'm riding the same bike in Holland (NL).
Very cool. Glad to help.
nice clean tools
Most of my tools are new, just a few years old. Unfortunately, someone broke into my garage 2-3 years ago during winter and stole every tool that I owned at that time, tool boxes included. I've been slowly replacing things, when I discover that I need something that I forgot about. Dang I don't have that tool anymore and I'm off to the tool shop to make another purchase.
Graet job!
Thanks. Glad you watched the video.
Thanks for general maintenance
Specs.much needed.desert ratting
850R
Always welcome. I intend to include more detail in upcoming videos. Torque values and intervals, etc. Thanks for watching.
Great bikes thinking of getting another one too
The BMW bikes have their quirks. But take care of them and they will go many miles.
Basic Repeating Maintenance Schedule -
Level I Svc (6K Svc Alternating) Change Engine Oil. Adjust Valves(Cold),Sync Throttle Bodies.
Level II Svc.(12K Miles Alternating) Change Engine Oil, Trans Oil, Final Drive Oil, Change Air Filter,Change Spark Plugs, Adjust Valves(cold), Sync Throttle Bodies.
Level II Service with Fuel Filter-(24K Miles Alternating)
Excellent. Thanks for posting the maintenance schedule and service information for the BMW.
Nice video, well put together and edited. Might I add one thing, after removing the oil filter, check the o ring comes out with the old filter. Serviced mine and found the oil filter to be bft (official torque spec), I can only assume the previous owner couldn’t stop the filter leaking so just kept tightening until it did stop.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing the info.
What a great video. Best information for the basic fluid replacements. Could you please tell me the crush washers sizes as I’m getting conflicting info from my local dealer. Thank you again for a great video
I don't have the crush washer sizes handy now but you might find the info at beemerboneyard.com. You can buy oil change kits at the sight. Google for a parts list on the BMW R1150R and you may find the info with a few clicks.
@@WheelStories Thank you!!!
That red fluid could be Redline brand....i remember running Redline years ago in a Harley softail and i am pretty sure the primary was a red color (i think). Its been awhile.
But for the tranny, Redline used a a really thick pink fluid with additives to quiten down and smooth out loud shifting....it was nice having the different colors fluids because if there was a leak, you immediately knew where it was coming from....Redline tranny fluid was great and their fluid products are race heat proven.
Just picked up an 03' 1150GS and was contemplating switching all fluid to Redline, but Amzoil availability is better where i am.....so, we'll see...
Good video 👍
Amzoil is a high quality brand. Good luck with the fluid changes.
that bike looks mint WS.
JohnG1100. The bike was impossible to pass up. Good price for a 2004 R1150R with 27K on the odometer. It will likely become my long distance touring bike. I plan to use my black R1150R for shorter rides. More of a naked around town, backroad roadster.
recently turned sixty and was fortunate to receive a 2007 r1200r from my sister and wife,I was looking at 1150's (prefer older technology) but because the ABS system on the 1150 has a poor reputation i decided on the 1200 because wifey rides pillion 99% of my rides,I think we're both lucky men your new bike is awesome.
I am still getting used to the ABS. My other R1150R has standard brakes. I may convert the new bike to standard braking if the ABS pump ever fails. Too expensive to replace. I just turned 58. So the bike was sort of a birthday present. To myself.
@@WheelStories FYI The ABS unit on my 2001 R1150GS crapped out; got it rebuilt at Module Master in Moscow, Idaho for $350 USD plus shipping. It's worked perfectly ever since and has a 5-year warranty. Saved about 3 grand versus having a dealership replace the unit
Just found your channel and picked up my first R1150R just a few days ago. How often to you change out your oil? Every 3,000 miles?
I change every 4000 to 5000 miles with synthetic. If going with dino oil I would change every 3000 miles. Welcome to the channel.
I use the Belray ester 10w40 oil...
Haven't tried Belray. Might have to give it a go sometime.
Just bought one myself today, 2002 with 10K miles, it was parked for a many years, where did you buy the washers and do you change the break and clutch oils as well?
Sounds like you made a good find. I picked up the washers at my local BMW dealership. I usually buy several sets to last me a year or two. You can find BMW dealerships that sell oil change kits online. I usually have the dealership change the break and clutch fluids during a routine checkup and valve adjustment. The fluids don't have to be changed as frequently as the engine and final drive oil. Have fun on the new bike.
Great Video!!!! Im excited I always wanted a bike like this and finally maybe tomorrow Im gonna get one, it has 33 thousand miles on it, any advice or recommendations? Is it really expensive to do the maintenance on this bike'? Thanks
The one concern to consider is whether the motorcycle has the integrated ABS braking system. If you're looking at the R1150 line of BMW's, the ABS system is potentially problematic and expensive to fix if the ABS pump fails. When the ABS pressure module failed on my 2004 BMW R1150R, I converted the bike to non-ABS, to a normal braking system. Apart from the matter of ABS, the motorcycle is reliable and relatively inexpensive to maintain. Thanks for watching.
@@WheelStories
Mine is 2003, 51000 km, 5 gears, no abs
Hi, thanks for the video! Do you by chance have specs for the crush washers?
Sorry. I don't know the specs right off hand. You might take a look at the BMW Boneyard website. That's where I go to order my oil filters, plugs, crush washers, etc. Thanks for watching.
16 mm inner, 20 mm outer, aluminum alloy
Can you please provide the list of tools that you are using SAE/Mateic. I am a new rider and learning to do maintenance. Thank you!
All of the tools are metric. You will need a set of Allen wrenches or a Hex socket set to open up the final drive and transmission drain and fill plugs. I like the Hex sockets with ratchet wrench for better leverage. You will also need crush washers and an oil filter cap wrench and ratchet to remove the oil filter. The cap wrench needs to fit the filter specified for the BMW. Check out Beemer Boneyard online for reference on parts. Thanks for watching Wheel Stories.
Center stand or side stand? Side stand puts more gear oil in the trans and final drive. Nice prod. quality!
I always place the bike on the center stand for the service.
I recently got ahold of a 2000 r1100r and watched your other video on valve adjustment. When it comes time to do these things should I just do them all together? Also, thanks for the excellent videos.
That's a good idea. Remember the engine needs to be cold when you adjust valves. Warm the engine when you drain the oil. Thanks for watching.
@@WheelStories So…go for a ride, drain everything, let it cool down, adjust the valves, and fill her back up?
Yes. That works. Needs to be totally cooled down for the valves.
@@WheelStories Cool. Btw, the guys at beemerboneyard also helped me get a parts list together. Thank you.
Good deal
Could you please provide the details of oils types that you used.
I typically use for the engine: Mobile 1 20-50 synthetic. Transmission: Mobile 1 75-90 synthetic gear oil. Final drive: Castrol Axle Limited Slip 80-90 gear oil
Good vid. I'm about to buy a R1150R myself. Quick question. How often do you do this kind of fluid change?
I change the engine oil and filter around 5000 miles. Sometimes sooner if I am preparing to take a trip. I do the final drive every other engine oil change. So every 10,000 miles or so, which is probably more often than necessary. For the transmission I change around every 15,000 to 20,000 miles. I may be changing the fluids more frequently than necessary but it is easy to do. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the info. I like to keep all my bikes clean and running well. So I end up change fluids more often than necessary as well.
Just picked up 2004 R1150R with only 15k miles on it yesterday. Road it back home 230 miles. I love it. Rides great. Thanks for the great info on this bike.
Good to hear, TexasKaiser. Used R1150R's are an excellent value, in my opinion. 15K on the odometer. That's terrific.
Love it. Good job! "Tight but not too tight" kills me :)). Torque specs, per manufacturer: oil filter- 11Nm, oil drain plug-32Nm (Chris Harris recomends 20 Nm), transmission drain plug-30Nm, transmission oil filler cap AND drain cap -30Nm, final drive drain AND oil filler cap-23 Nm.
Does it require any special service tools in order to change your oil site glass ?
I'm mot sure. I've never replaced a sight glass. Try googling the subject and I suspect you will find the procedure detailed on a message board or here on TH-cam. If the task requires accessing the interior side of the engine, I imagine job might be a bit tricky.
Why dont u use newton meter wrench? With factory recomended numbers for each screw
I use a large torque wrench on the big nuts and bolts but didn't have smaller wrench until recently. I got one for Christmas and have started using it.
I ride a 2004 R1150 Rockster. What's your opinion on tires replacement? Up to this point I've been taking it to a local Bmw licensed mechanic when I need some maintenance and replace tires. I do my oil changes on my own. But I've been looking at other youtubers replacing their own tires and considering to tackle the task. Have you yourself replace your own tires? Also thinking about brake pads while I'm at it.
I have not changed tires on my BMW. I change tires and tubes on my bicycles routinely but haven't tried with the motorcycle. I take the wheels off with the tires and drop them off at the dealer when I need the tires replaced. I haven't done the brake pads but I have a new set sitting in my garage. I may give it a try. I need to watch a few videos and read up on it first.
I have been a UJM and Sport Bike rider for almost 50 years. I finally just purchased my first BMW; a 2004 r1150r with less than 20,000 miles. I had a friend who had one and put well over 100,000 miles on it. I am looking forward too many many miles on it. I have enjoyed your videos and they are inspiring. Any advice on what to look for. It looks brand new and rides fantastic. I am gathering the supplies to change the fluids. It just had the major service with all fluid changed last year, so the clutch and brakes should be good to go for a couple of years. Any advice would be helpful.
I'd say just keep up with the routine maintenance at the recommended intervals. That includes valve adjustments and the replacement of the air filter, brake pads, etc. Nothing major. If you have the ABS version, be aware that the ABS module may prematurely fail and the replacement and repair is expensive and cumbersome. The module on my bike started to intermittently fail and give errors a few months back. The brakes started working again after a reset but I've lost trust in the module. I'm thinking about bypassing the ABS system this coming winter for a regular brake setup. Takes some rerouting of brake lines and futzing with the brake switches and electrical to get the brake lights working properly without the ABS system. I've got all winter to contemplate and complete the repair.
simple tools allow for mounting and dismounting the rubber from the rims and is doable at home. the speciallized tools for balancing (esp. high speed) are usually out of reach pricewise for the average home mechanic. for the price i always bite the bullet and pay the tire pro. instead, save money and get the best deal on tires online and bring them to a guy with tools and experience so that you dont chew up your rims and find out on a long ride that the home balancing was a mistake. cheers
Why do you use a different gear lube in the transmission and rear end?
Long time ago I read several articles and posts by BMW mechanics who believe 90 weight dino gear oil is better for the final drive than the synthetic stuff. Fewer leaks and issues with seals. Honestly, I don't know how accurate the information is but the Castrol gear oil is much cheaper than the synthetic oil. I've not had any problems and the lube still looks clean when I drain it out. Just something I've stuck with since researching lubes for the bike 10-15 years ago.
@@WheelStories I have read the same on my airhead. Didn't know that was still suggested on oilheads.
Can only find castrol limited slip 85w90 GL-5. Im in uk would this be ok or no?
I think that should do the trick.
Isn’t it a dry clutch? Do you still need to change transmission oil? Sorry if it is a dumb question
Good question. The BMW clutch is considered dry because it is not immersed in an oil bath. In terms of lubrication, the engine and transmission are separate. The engine takes regular engine oil while the transmission is lubricated with gear oil. The final drive at the rear wheel requires lubrication with gear oil as well. Thanks for watching and posting the question.
@@WheelStories AND --the clutch is in its own space between the active engine housing and the transmission. While it is a hydraulic activated clutch, the plates are indeed dry, or unlubricated, and are in a separate compartment from blth trans and engine.
Can I apply the same method to my R1100s?
I'm not familiar with the R1100S but would think the oil change procedure is the same. The transmission and final drive fluid change is likely very similar as well. I'd recommend studying the user manual and explore for tips online. There may be TH-cam videos on fluid changes for the R1100S. Hunt around. Thanks for watching.
how similar would this be for a r1100r?
I think close but I recommend that you do some additional research.
I'm watching with sound off atm... Is that ATF?
It is not labeled as ATF. For the transmission I use Mobile 1 Synthetic Gear Lube. Castrol Gear Lube for the final drive.
@@WheelStories okay, I've never seen red gear oil before. Thank you for the great video.
The red stuff. I don't know what that is. That was in the bike when I bought it used. I drained the red fluid out of the tranny and final drive and replaced it with the Mobile One and Castrol gear lubes.