I wouldn’t necessarily advise this as a race buggy. You would be much better off buying a used known brand car a few years old. It will be a little more expensive initially, but will not require any mods to make it reliable and competitive, and will be a much better base
This video came just in time for me personally man. I have my 104001 taken apart now to revamp the entire chassis and drivetrain. I WILL be using this method as a replacement for my original spur gear. The process of building this car has been slow but that’s what’s making it so exciting
awe yeah i'm going to try to figure this out for my 12th scale rlaarlo (d12) because i will have some spare diffs tomorrow, and way too much time on my hands
Cool video bro. But I'd never use an 82 tooth spur.. that would be wayyyy too slow for me lol I've just bought the 104001 and ordered a 30 tooth and a 25 mod 1 😂 Let the madness commence haha But some good ideas 👍
I need to figure out if its possible instead of a drive cup, to put another bevel gear, or mount a bevel gear onto the drive cup somehow so i could have a centre diff inside of a 124008.
Yes using these dogbones you should be able to use the LCracing diff or slipper directly. Unfortunately they are both quite expensive to buy individually
I am about to do the centre diff mod. My track is tight so I want to lower the gearing. I guess I need the 10b5 81T Spur but what options do I have for pinions please? The 105b spur is 48p. I see plenty of 48p pinions on Aliex - do I need hardened? Ones to avoid? There is a 87T spur, can it be made to fit? TIA
Nope, can't recall whether I used the WLtoys or LC racing hardware, but it went right in. I would probably use the WLtoys hardware given the holes are 'threaded' for those initially.
I would highly recommend that anyone wanting to buy the 104001 in order to upgrade and race it, does not, and instead either buys the LCRacing LC10b5 (which I also have) or even a second hand Associated/Losi/Xray buggy instead. To directly answer your question, I'd estimate that excluding electrics (as the LC version comes with none) that even with the upgrades, the 104001 still cost less than the LC kit.
Hi, sorry for the late reply. The answer would depend on what motor you’re running and what you’re doing with the car. Something in the 20-30 range would probably be about right.
I see this cf gear is not available...Are there any other after market spur gears for this car that weigh less than stock and will hold up well? Also the stock gears are mod .6 ..so i would want mod .6 of coarse..thanks 😊
Not on TH-cam but broadly: Carbon suspension towers hinge pin blocks and upper deck parts. Lc10b5 front CVd and springs Uprated hinge pin bolts HSP Unlimited steering/suspension links and balls. Alloy hexes Brushless stuff
I don't think I ever promised one, but you'll note there is another video on the channel of me racing this car, with the diff, showing it working well. It continues to do so after quite a few race days!
Thanks for the walkthrough. I’m considering this platform as a racing beginner. Still undecided
I wouldn’t necessarily advise this as a race buggy. You would be much better off buying a used known brand car a few years old. It will be a little more expensive initially, but will not require any mods to make it reliable and competitive, and will be a much better base
This video came just in time for me personally man. I have my 104001 taken apart now to revamp the entire chassis and drivetrain. I WILL be using this method as a replacement for my original spur gear. The process of building this car has been slow but that’s what’s making it so exciting
Awesome to hear mate. Good luck with the build :)
Put LC slipper clutch in my EAT14 was thinking on doing the same with the 104001 until I watched this. Great Idea thanks for the info...
Great video! Thank you for sharing
Man such an awesome video. I bought and did exactly what you did. THANK YOU! From FLORIDA. Some other dude is drillin n stuff.... no way....lol
Nice work!
Thank you for the effort to do what WL should have done. I've got everything ordered. Cheers.
Good luck with the conversion. Mine is still fitted and going strong after multiple race days.
awe yeah i'm going to try to figure this out for my 12th scale rlaarlo (d12) because i will have some spare diffs tomorrow, and way too much time on my hands
Cool video bro.
But I'd never use an 82 tooth spur.. that would be wayyyy too slow for me lol
I've just bought the 104001 and ordered a 30 tooth and a 25 mod 1 😂
Let the madness commence haha
But some good ideas 👍
Haha I bet that will go fast! Yes this mod is for racing not speed-running. The straight on our track is only about 30m long!
Genius
I need to figure out if its possible instead of a drive cup, to put another bevel gear, or mount a bevel gear onto the drive cup somehow so i could have a centre diff inside of a 124008.
124008, maybe a 1/12 scale slipper instead, since rear mounted motor so close to back diff?
If i use an lc racing center diff. Instead of combining a wltoys diff with lc racing. Would it still fit?
Yes using these dogbones you should be able to use the LCracing diff or slipper directly. Unfortunately they are both quite expensive to buy individually
I am about to do the centre diff mod. My track is tight so I want to lower the gearing. I guess I need the 10b5 81T Spur but what options do I have for pinions please? The 105b spur is 48p. I see plenty of 48p pinions on Aliex - do I need hardened? Ones to avoid? There is a 87T spur, can it be made to fit? TIA
The wltoys screws and the lcracing screws are of different sizes, did they give you any problems holding the differential ring gear?
Nope, can't recall whether I used the WLtoys or LC racing hardware, but it went right in. I would probably use the WLtoys hardware given the holes are 'threaded' for those initially.
Is this really worth it?? Did the whole car + upgrades cost more than the lc racing version?
I would highly recommend that anyone wanting to buy the 104001 in order to upgrade and race it, does not, and instead either buys the LCRacing LC10b5 (which I also have) or even a second hand Associated/Losi/Xray buggy instead.
To directly answer your question, I'd estimate that excluding electrics (as the LC version comes with none) that even with the upgrades, the 104001 still cost less than the LC kit.
interesting
What pininon would you recommend for this Wltoys 104001 conversion?
Hi, sorry for the late reply. The answer would depend on what motor you’re running and what you’re doing with the car. Something in the 20-30 range would probably be about right.
@@WellingtonIronman thanks.
I wonder what link rod and end rods you use on that kit? Im planning to upgrade mine, coz it always fall off many time if i was drive it on track
They’re from an HSP Unlimited.
a.aliexpress.com/_mtnHN6W
Do i have to change the pivot ball?
@@ibnusn1220 yes you need to order the balls too
@@WellingtonIronman ah, thanks a lot brother! Goodluck with your build!
I see this cf gear is not available...Are there any other after market spur gears for this car that weigh less than stock and will hold up well? Also the stock gears are mod .6 ..so i would want mod .6 of coarse..thanks 😊
This is so helpful thanks! Do you have a breakdown of all the mods made to your 104001?
Not on TH-cam but broadly:
Carbon suspension towers hinge pin blocks and upper deck parts.
Lc10b5 front CVd and springs
Uprated hinge pin bolts
HSP Unlimited steering/suspension links and balls.
Alloy hexes
Brushless stuff
So is the same as the slipper?
No a slipper cuts power to both front and rear. A diff distributes power to either the front or back, or both
Can this kit modified for drag 1/10 scale?
I wouldnt.
What steering rod you use?
From an HSP Unlimited, see another comment for the link :)
Where's the update?
I don't think I ever promised one, but you'll note there is another video on the channel of me racing this car, with the diff, showing it working well. It continues to do so after quite a few race days!
Have you tested it? How does it hold?
Yes, I put two batteries through it at my local track a few days ago and so far it has held fine. It really really improves the cornering