Tip for anyone just getting into 3D printing - Budget 3D printers can be super awesome, but kick in the extra $30 or whatever to get the auto-leveling version. Just got into 3D printing a month or so ago and I had no end of problems thinking my leveling was 'good enough'. Took me like a week 'til I finally did the paper gap method and finally got it right.
You should pre-heat bed and nozzle....and do not turn off steppers, when I turn them off, I can manually move hotend up. My leveling starts at finding level 0 for nozzle, preheat tool and bed, and then move with controller nozzle and bed (X and Y axis)
@@majki88888 you have to move the z axis 0.1mm after steppers are disabled to compensate for the paper, so the paper acts as a feeler gauge, it also keeps the z axis motor holding and won't allow it to move up
I would recommend buying the creality CR touch. I was very discouraged from buying it because of laziness but it was very easy to set up and totally worth it. So worth the money and an amazing printer upgrade. It levels the bed in so many different places and for someone who had a bowed bed, this was perfect. My prints are always perfectly level every single time and overall amazing.
@@Wheezall you'd need to get it fairly close manually first. But once you've done that once, you'll only need to auto level from then on (unless you move the printer around, or make some changes etc.). I got mine perfect manually first, just so you don't have to rely as much on the software
not really worth the purchase unless you have an extremely warped bed. my bed has a slight warp but manual levelling i can still get good first layers without using my bltouch. if you properly level the bed, you wont have to level it for a while unless you do something like hit it by accident and knock it slightly out of place.
@@anonymitymatt1721 agreed. Not worth the effort. I still have one in the box. Never putting it on. I just went three weeks of round the clock prints without even touching the dials once.
Helped a lot, but tip for those with a heavier nozzle because of direct drive; also under the “motion” tab, you can move the axis you want without the nozzle sagging in order to level your bed. More precise as well
If you have any kind of ender 3 except the new ones, please change the springs on the bed it will make your life much easier, also if you have an Ender 3 V2 you can update the software and be able to create a manual mesh so you'll never have to mess with the berd springs again
You should move the z axis up 0.1mm after disabling steppers to compensate fo the thickness of the paper, there using using the paper as a feeler gauge, and it also doesn't allow the z axis to be moved up when moving the head to the different places
I just need to learn how to print an Omni Droid that doesn't fail when 80% done. I have the same printer so thanks for helping me know how to level it properly
Try not to use clippers to clean your nozzle. Brass is a lot softer than steel, it’ll mess up the nozzle good if you’re not careful, ask me how I know😂
Omg watched a few video and couldnt level the bed right cause people get to technical this was easy as and solved my problems without me raging out of frustration lol
Always Pre heat to the printing temperature for nozzle and bed before you do any form of bed levelling. You will be surprised how much z difference is from room temperature to 200+ Celsius. Also ender 3 bed and nozzle heats up rather slowly, after reaching desired temperature, i would recommend you just let it stay for 5 minutes for the bed to let the heat spread from the centre to the corners. On smaller printers like the Ender 3 you might get lucky not preheating it first. But on larger printers like Sidewinder X2, not letting the heat stabilised first could be bad.
This is called traming nice content I also have a 3d printing channel I just started if you ever get overwhelmed let me know I have 15 printers a nice little farm
After leveling your bed, you will never, and I say NEVER get a first layer like seen here. You need to play with z offset after that. Usually you still need to raise your bed for about 0.05-0.1
To be honest i had better results just looking at the distance between the nozzle and the bed and adjusting the bed hight to my desire rather then using a sheet of paparr
Turning off steppers is bad advice. Instead start a print and after it starts printing 10sec turn of the printer. It will lock in the actual nozzle height used for printing. Raise or lower your bed accordingly to the nozzle then.
whenever i put disable stepper on it keeps making the novel go down when i move the bed down even when the bed is all the way down its still touching the bed
For some reason I’m hitting the bed at the lowest possible points the bed can be at. Do you think the nozzle can sag? Do I just tighten the wheels? I’m changed the extruder, Bowden tube, nozzle, bed nuts. Next thing to try is raising the z end point. Been trouble shooting for hourssss
He should say "I'm going to tell you in under 60 how to level a 3d printer bed" the actual process will take far far longer. Even if I didn't know about the subject just look at all the cutaway & cut-in edits and the video is nearly the 60 seconds he claims.
When the Z axis is at home position, I can raise the bed as high as it goes and it will still be .02 or so away from nozzle so I manually lower Z until I hear the "click" of the over travel switch then it's close enough for paper. I'm new and open to suggestions? I figure it's all relative so as long as I'm consistent. Also seems to be a lot of play in the bed, is this normal? It's an Ender 3
Ain’t that the truth. Do you also have the problem where the bed just absolutely refuses to be level? I try doing the paper thing but every time i have the problem where I go back to test the first one and it’s completely unleveled…. I have ADHD so leveling the bed is the reason that in the 3 years I’ve had the printer I’ve only actually had 3 prints.
@@battlefrontnews4035 Yeah I also had that problem with my printer. I would push one corner of the bed just a little and it completely throws it off! My Voron 0.1's bed when the nozzle collides with the print violently at 42069 mm/s: *still perfectly leveled* My Ender 3 V2's bed when you look at it the wrong way: _bed falls off of the Y gantry and the printer catches on fire_
How to level in 30 seconds, cr touch with 2.2.7 motherboard. Or use chep led levelling never tried it but looks good. The problem with knob levelling is after a while beds warp, scratch, springs wear down.
@@kibatechwolf Interesting, I think I'm being overly cautious with my Neo. I had to manually level it after opening it, once after changing a power supply fan and then again after moving the whole unit to a different surface. I will say it wasn't much maybe 8 sheets of paper thickness deviation from corner to as a guess. The first level I did was further out however I expected this. Would the CR Touch compensate for this difference? Only had the unit for a month so very much still working it out.
@josh green my ender 3 pro is about 17 degrees slanted down right side and the touch does compensate. Sometimes moving a printer and levelling could be the base is not flat. I've moved my neo multiple times and remains the same.
A piece of paper is . 1mm thick. You are leveling to +. 1mm not 0. Lots make this mistake. It works because most first layers work between . 2 and . 4mm
If you dont continually go around in a circle until you make no adjustments on the wheels, the bed is not level. Printing to level the bed is consistently garbage and consistently takes longer, if even possible.
I have the same printer and the same print bed but why doesn’t the plastic stick to the surface when I try to print on the other side of the glass bed?
Why couldn't they use the same ancient leveling system as in surveying instruments, just a platform on which there are three screws, by turning which you bring the instrument to the level.
No, you should not have to level your printer before every print. Just once and the printer will be leveled. Depending on how good the springs on your printer are, you may need to re-level it every so often, but not anytime soon after you leveled it once.
step 1: have no bed or build plate warp. step 2: be lucky and roll a perfect Z start position that works with all your printing needs yeah. no. 99% of the user base has to make upgrades and jack with their firmware currently if their shit didnt come with a CR touch
This in not a great way to level a printer for the following reasons... Never turn off the steppers as the motors then return to the nearest whole step which breads in inaccuracy. Printer should always be hot when levelling due to expansion on the bed and nozzle. The paper method is not the best way to level bed, it actually makes it so the nozzle is too high by the thickness of the paper. I personally use a metal shim of a know thickness (e.g. 0.25mm). By setting the Z height to this value, I can make sure that after levelling the nozzle is at exactly 0mm (and so the first layer is exactly the correct height). I do this using a gcode script which I wrote where the printer heats, homes, and goes to directly above each screw in turn using M0 to pause in each position to level bed.
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You should pre-heat bed and nozzle when leveling since both will expand a bit when on print temp
Facts
I agree, I think he makes up for this by folding the paper in half
100 PERCENT CORRECT
Not enough to make a difference and it won't change the levelling only the distance which you can adjust with your Z-offset
@@mszoomy less of a chance of the nozzle digging into the bed
Tip for anyone just getting into 3D printing - Budget 3D printers can be super awesome, but kick in the extra $30 or whatever to get the auto-leveling version.
Just got into 3D printing a month or so ago and I had no end of problems thinking my leveling was 'good enough'. Took me like a week 'til I finally did the paper gap method and finally got it right.
Dude, this was so much simpler than anything else I've watched.
Because it’s not fully correct but will probably get you going fast if needed.
THANK YOU FOR NOT GOING INTO A 5 MINUTE BACKROUND STORY!!!! ❤❤❤
I was so frustrated trying to get my printer level again but your video and the idea to fix it live during a test print helped so much. Thanks!
You should pre-heat bed and nozzle....and do not turn off steppers, when I turn them off, I can manually move hotend up. My leveling starts at finding level 0 for nozzle, preheat tool and bed, and then move with controller nozzle and bed (X and Y axis)
You can’t move the nozzle without disabling steppers no?
@@mudia107 hotend moves freely when steppers are off
@@majki88888 you have to move the z axis 0.1mm after steppers are disabled to compensate for the paper, so the paper acts as a feeler gauge, it also keeps the z axis motor holding and won't allow it to move up
@@Robo_Kong I just use a feeler gauge to level. Disable steppers and preheat. Y'all are doing too much
I would recommend buying the creality CR touch. I was very discouraged from buying it because of laziness but it was very easy to set up and totally worth it. So worth the money and an amazing printer upgrade. It levels the bed in so many different places and for someone who had a bowed bed, this was perfect. My prints are always perfectly level every single time and overall amazing.
But if the bed is very off it won't really work right?
@@Wheezall you'd need to get it fairly close manually first. But once you've done that once, you'll only need to auto level from then on (unless you move the printer around, or make some changes etc.). I got mine perfect manually first, just so you don't have to rely as much on the software
not really worth the purchase unless you have an extremely warped bed. my bed has a slight warp but manual levelling i can still get good first layers without using my bltouch. if you properly level the bed, you wont have to level it for a while unless you do something like hit it by accident and knock it slightly out of place.
@@anonymitymatt1721 yes, but leveling manually can still take way longer and I’ve had my printer for almost 4 years so the bed is insanely warped
@@anonymitymatt1721 agreed. Not worth the effort. I still have one in the box. Never putting it on. I just went three weeks of round the clock prints without even touching the dials once.
Helped a lot, but tip for those with a heavier nozzle because of direct drive; also under the “motion” tab, you can move the axis you want without the nozzle sagging in order to level your bed. More precise as well
Your pfp will haunt me until the end of days
Should probably say “oh, and I purchased a glass bed”
Fun is when 4 corners leveled ,but middle is deep
If you have any kind of ender 3 except the new ones, please change the springs on the bed it will make your life much easier, also if you have an Ender 3 V2 you can update the software and be able to create a manual mesh so you'll never have to mess with the berd springs again
I have and ended 3 v2 could you elaborate
I have a ender 3 s1 pro how does this work
Replace the springs with what?
@@KayDoubleyouPealove🥰
Nah I'm just gonna get a k1 max
Should the feeling you get when dragging the paper feel similar to a ballpoint pen when its correct?
THANK YOU! I used the CHEP leveling GCode before this, and now my Ender is printing PERFECT bed adhesion print
Don't level the bed from opposite corner. It causes uneven forces on other 2 corner. It will bend your build plate over time.
You should move the z axis up 0.1mm after disabling steppers to compensate fo the thickness of the paper, there using using the paper as a feeler gauge, and it also doesn't allow the z axis to be moved up when moving the head to the different places
Don’t disable steppers! You can accidentally push the Z axis and this will fail levelling
Kinda hard to accidentally push the z axis since it’s screw drive
@@capitalv8062 Well, slightest amount of pressure is enough to move it so it's going to be inconsistent
I just need to learn how to print an Omni Droid that doesn't fail when 80% done. I have the same printer so thanks for helping me know how to level it properly
Him: how to level an ender 3 in 60 seconds
Also him: has everything on fast forward
Just had an x1c delivered today cant wait to finsh work and set it up and test out the bed leveling on that, an upgrade from my deaded ender 3 sr pro
You can enable manual mesh bedleving in Marlin to save a ton of leveling time
Try not to use clippers to clean your nozzle. Brass is a lot softer than steel, it’ll mess up the nozzle good if you’re not careful, ask me how I know😂
How do you know?
Jk
@@irmazelaya3142 you got me
It dosnt take the dexterity of a brain surgeon to do that with out damaging the nozzle
Man klipper makes this so much simpler.
Note over time the aluminum plate will warp from the heat nothin you can really do about it. Mine has a nice bend in it
I recommend changing the table to a magnetic one
Thank you!
Omg watched a few video and couldnt level the bed right cause people get to technical this was easy as and solved my problems without me raging out of frustration lol
Luggage scanners and walkthrough metal detectors I like
That mess of wires hurt me on another level
Whenever I try to tighten those things under the four corners, all they do is compress the string, it doesn't make the bed go up at all.
Thanks bro
Always Pre heat to the printing temperature for nozzle and bed before you do any form of bed levelling. You will be surprised how much z difference is from room temperature to 200+ Celsius. Also ender 3 bed and nozzle heats up rather slowly, after reaching desired temperature, i would recommend you just let it stay for 5 minutes for the bed to let the heat spread from the centre to the corners. On smaller printers like the Ender 3 you might get lucky not preheating it first. But on larger printers like Sidewinder X2, not letting the heat stabilised first could be bad.
Pre heat the bed and nozzle, and most importantly, SET THE NOZZLE TO YOUR FIRST LAYER HEIGHT
This is called traming nice content I also have a 3d printing channel I just started if you ever get overwhelmed let me know I have 15 printers a nice little farm
After leveling your bed, you will never, and I say NEVER get a first layer like seen here. You need to play with z offset after that. Usually you still need to raise your bed for about 0.05-0.1
What do you mean by saying a little resistance can you show us thanks
Not sure if I missed it, but the nozzle and bed need to be at printing temperature to do this properly
Use a feeler gauge instead of paper. More accurate. Also always preheat bed and nozzle. And shut off motors.
yo i was thinking the same thing i was like but i got a feeler gauge in my toolbox... gotta be more accurate. what size do you use?
"60 second clip of how to level an Ender 3"
To be honest i had better results just looking at the distance between the nozzle and the bed and adjusting the bed hight to my desire rather then using a sheet of paparr
Yeah me too I found it much easier
those zip ties
Do you have aftermarket springs on your ender 3 bed? I find the stock very inconsistent
Turning off steppers is bad advice.
Instead start a print and after it starts printing 10sec turn of the printer. It will lock in the actual nozzle height used for printing. Raise or lower your bed accordingly to the nozzle then.
whenever i put disable stepper on it keeps making the novel go down when i move the bed down even when the bed is all the way down its still touching the bed
the bed leveling knobs start moving once printer starts vibrating
For some reason I’m hitting the bed at the lowest possible points the bed can be at. Do you think the nozzle can sag? Do I just tighten the wheels?
I’m changed the extruder, Bowden tube, nozzle, bed nuts. Next thing to try is raising the z end point. Been trouble shooting for hourssss
Moving the bed and hot end by hand will screw up your height as you lvl, use the dial
This Hotend looks Like Spyder, is it?
The longest 60 seconds of my life !
He should say "I'm going to tell you in under 60 how to level a 3d printer bed" the actual process will take far far longer. Even if I didn't know about the subject just look at all the cutaway & cut-in edits and the video is nearly the 60 seconds he claims.
Takes 10 minutes but I am glad my AnkerM5 has a automatic leveling
What you do is you sell the Ender and get a Bambu
What kind of bed is that?
Welp thats wrong, after you do that you heat the bed and nozzle and do the same lvl with the digital adjustments
When the Z axis is at home position, I can raise the bed as high as it goes and it will still be .02 or so away from nozzle so I manually lower Z until I hear the "click" of the over travel switch then it's close enough for paper. I'm new and open to suggestions? I figure it's all relative so as long as I'm consistent. Also seems to be a lot of play in the bed, is this normal? It's an Ender 3
Dam I wish it was this easy for me, I don’t have an Ender 3 I got a Neptune 2S instead but IT SUCKS AT LEVELING
The cable management :skull:
Is “disabling steppers” and “stop motor” the same function? My printer (ender 3 neo) doesn’t have a disable steppers option, only “stop motor”
Once you do it a few times it’s really easy
I just saw this video on my moms phone and now it’s on mine? Wft
Step 1 buy an ender 3 v3 se
where do you find the steppers
You forgot the part where you tell us we have to do this for every single print because the ender 3's frame is built like a bouncy house stock
Ain’t that the truth. Do you also have the problem where the bed just absolutely refuses to be level? I try doing the paper thing but every time i have the problem where I go back to test the first one and it’s completely unleveled…. I have ADHD so leveling the bed is the reason that in the 3 years I’ve had the printer I’ve only actually had 3 prints.
@@battlefrontnews4035 Yeah I also had that problem with my printer. I would push one corner of the bed just a little and it completely throws it off!
My Voron 0.1's bed when the nozzle collides with the print violently at 42069 mm/s:
*still perfectly leveled*
My Ender 3 V2's bed when you look at it the wrong way:
_bed falls off of the Y gantry and the printer catches on fire_
@@battlefrontnews4035buy a bl touch it will make your life easier
I couldn't be doing this after like the nth time I use a BL Touch now. There's a neat mod out there that uses the Z probe as a ghetto BL Touch
The preprep time alone would take at least 4 minutes. My estimate if following these instructions is approximately 10 x 60 seconds minimum!
What nozzle was this?
Why do you have that glass on the Bed?
You have to move it using the display; if not things aren’t aligned
@Blunt you can do things wrong for many years
How much exactly is "a little resistance"
How to level in 30 seconds, cr touch with 2.2.7 motherboard. Or use chep led levelling never tried it but looks good. The problem with knob levelling is after a while beds warp, scratch, springs wear down.
Still need to do this once in a while even with a CR Touch, No?
@josh green in a year with my ender 3 pro I've had to manual level it once since. On ender 3 neo never had to manual level not once
@@kibatechwolf Interesting, I think I'm being overly cautious with my Neo.
I had to manually level it after opening it, once after changing a power supply fan and then again after moving the whole unit to a different surface.
I will say it wasn't much maybe 8 sheets of paper thickness deviation from corner to as a guess.
The first level I did was further out however I expected this.
Would the CR Touch compensate for this difference?
Only had the unit for a month so very much still working it out.
@josh green my ender 3 pro is about 17 degrees slanted down right side and the touch does compensate. Sometimes moving a printer and levelling could be the base is not flat. I've moved my neo multiple times and remains the same.
Thanks
Do not disable the steppers. You touching the gantry can move the z stepper enough to make your bed leveling bad
And then it goes out of true the moment you touch the buildplate to remove your print.
This is why you get an FL sun
A piece of paper is . 1mm thick. You are leveling to +. 1mm not 0. Lots make this mistake. It works because most first layers work between . 2 and . 4mm
DO THE MIDDLE LAST MOST IMPORTANT PART!!!! SOUNDS DUMB BUT MIDDLE IS DIFFERENT I SWEAR IT
Disabling steppers for leveling is stupid because Z will obviously move as well!!
If you dont continually go around in a circle until you make no adjustments on the wheels, the bed is not level.
Printing to level the bed is consistently garbage and consistently takes longer, if even possible.
My ender 3 cant extrude and im looking for help give me some tips
Next video, how to replace all the crappy inferior parts that break after a few months! 👌
Mine is about to be 2 years old with me and still running on original parts except for the springs
wont work properly this way because when steppper motors are off the z axis will slip down
I have the same printer and the same print bed but why doesn’t the plastic stick to the surface when I try to print on the other side of the glass bed?
Bed's probably not level properly
@@masterofgamezz No, it’s leveled perfectly, I did it so many times and I know how to nail it
What if my bed is too far down? How do I adjust it?
whys your glass upside down?
"manually level"
Sv06 and any auto leveling printer users: GROSS!
🤣
I have a CR touch ender 5 s1 and it worked great for the first month. Now I made more settings than before but it doesn't work :(
Also 3M duct tape works let it just barely hit it and it’s perfectly level
Why couldn't they use the same ancient leveling system as in surveying instruments, just a platform on which there are three screws, by turning which you bring the instrument to the level.
"leveling" is a misnomer. Not level to the ground but parallel to the x axis gantry and the y axis rail.
this is why i got a bltouch
Bro said in 60 seconds😂😂😂 doing this takes me at least 20 minutes
No paper!! Use a feeler gauge.. works better
Mines doesnt move at all how can i contact you my 3d printer makes a vibrating noise then stop turning i think i made the wheels too tight
So should I be doing this at every print?? Sorry new to 3D Printing. I’m using an ender 3 pro. Thanks
No, you should not have to level your printer before every print. Just once and the printer will be leveled. Depending on how good the springs on your printer are, you may need to re-level it every so often, but not anytime soon after you leveled it once.
step 1: have no bed or build plate warp.
step 2: be lucky and roll a perfect Z start position that works with all your printing needs
yeah. no. 99% of the user base has to make upgrades and jack with their firmware currently if their shit didnt come with a CR touch
Do you have your bed upside down 👀👀👀
How to do this on a social sv06??? It has no knobs. There is a 0.3 mom difference between the highest and lowest points which is sad.
The glass bed is installed in reverse.
I just buy one ender 3 and option deseable is not on the screen... its weird😮😅.. i dont know what to do with that
You're tramming the bed.
This in not a great way to level a printer for the following reasons...
Never turn off the steppers as the motors then return to the nearest whole step which breads in inaccuracy.
Printer should always be hot when levelling due to expansion on the bed and nozzle.
The paper method is not the best way to level bed, it actually makes it so the nozzle is too high by the thickness of the paper.
I personally use a metal shim of a know thickness (e.g. 0.25mm). By setting the Z height to this value, I can make sure that after levelling the nozzle is at exactly 0mm (and so the first layer is exactly the correct height). I do this using a gcode script which I wrote where the printer heats, homes, and goes to directly above each screw in turn using M0 to pause in each position to level bed.
Is there a printer that doesn't need constant re leveling?
you can swap out the springs for solid bed mounts (around $10) and this prevents your levels from moving out of place