This just saved me having to go to the main stealer for a battery replacement recoding. Built it a few months back to diag a fault and today I used it to reprogram the ecu for a new battery install. It saved me over £120 and 3 hours to get to the main stealer and back :). Thank you!!!
Technically, the Server Switching power supply module is not a power supply it is a preregulator, hence its low cost. The server motherboard will take this noisy raw supply voltage and regulate it down to be used with the electronics. As a result, at high currents the supply will generate condisderable noise. The target for jump start post sustaining is 50mV p-p for a switching PS at worse case current condition. So you should use an oscilloscope to see what the server power supply is actually supplying in terms of voltage and current waveforms. If you take a closer look at the specs for a charger that claims is safe for reflashing see if the specs list a p-p noise fiqure at a current rating. Most do not. What is really needed is a slow increase in system voltage at the jump start posts, with a source that is as electrically quiet as the battery, and not a sudden voltage step as shown in the video. This step change is seen directly at the module inputs, and because applied at the jump start posts, is not filtered like if connected at the battery. Also, in a classical sense for charging, any connection to the vehicle for charging (sustaining) should be done with a nonsparking power off technique. In many vehicle service manual procedures chargers are not recommended for reflashing. All the chargers I have looked at that claim to have a sustainer function do not recommend using jump start posts and need to be directly connected at the battery. This is becuase many use noisy voltage switching techniques, which is fine for charging a stand-alone battery, but not reflashing from jump start posts. I use a linear PS and a home made rectifier (big diode with cooling fan) so I can set the supply low like 11.0 Volts, connect to the jump start posts (no step change and no current supplied, either forward or reverse) and slowly ramp up the voltage as I watch the supply current increase. What you will see is the classic constant voltage decreasing current profile as the battery starts to take a charge. In many cases, unless the battery is fully charged, a sustainer is actually putting a charge on the battery as it sustains the vehicle for reflashing. This is to be expected and is one reason why sustainer current requirements are so high, you may use 10 Amps just to charge the battery. The other reason is that after programming a module the setup/cal procedure may require actuating loads. When reflashing a module it is not executing strategy and should not require a large amount of current. What happens after programming and reset is usually a procedure to test functionality, which will in some cases actuate high current loads. Some may be very large like electric motor assist power steering or cooling fans. Another interesting result in supporting high currents with clamp at posts is that clamps are not that good at conducting large currents. How a toothed clamp attaches to a post is not that ideal of an electrical connection. A better approach, if you plan on keeping a vehicle or reflashing often, is to wire in a keyed connector pigtail with fuse to the posts underhood (with weatherproof sealed boots) or near the battery on the vehicle side of the current sensor in the trunk. This pin (barrel or wiper) connection is much lower resistance than a clamp and by using a keyed connector reverse polarity is eliminated, and you also eliminate the possibility that a clamp may spring loose during reflashing. There are many different OEM connector types that can handle 50 Amps (APP, Delphi, Deutsch, etc.).
Complimenti Sei veramente FORTISSIMO, l'unica pecca avere un ITALIANO così preparato in questo campo che però non fa neanche un video in lingua madre 🇮🇹
Great video! Thanks for sharing with us!How about place a polyester capacitor in parallel with a ceramic capacitor with values as 10nFx100v and 10pfx100v between the positive and negative pole of the power supply when connecting it to the battery car? This will avoid the difference potential between the power supply voltage and the car battery problem that can cause a voltage spike (that cause that little smoke at about 7:25 when connected the negative pole of the power supply )and damage some module of the car in my humble opinion.
I had the same exact PSU and I sold it. The problem is 700W PSU with 14v will give about 50AMPS. On F series BMW recommends 70+ amps or 60+ amps, I don`t remember. Right now I built another few weeks ago, an HP DPS-1200FB HSTNS-PD11. Therefore at 1200W and 14.3V I`m getting 80+ amps. Although the same PSU as yours worked perfectly on 10+ cars, I don`t want to risk, as something I`m flashing whole car, not only HU. FYI, to find the Amps from a source, do this. wattage of the PSU divided by the voltage set and you get the amps. The HP DPS-1200FB is so quiet, that last night I forgot it turned on and didn`t realised. Paid 12GBP for it and is amazing. I'm looking to put it in a old toolbox, with a screen DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD screen to show me the Voltage, Current, Power and Energy measurements in one combo. Also, for the turn on jumper I used a rocket switch (on / off) to not start directly when is plugged to the power. That switch will be integrated to the toolbox :D Maybe is a good idea for you as well, but this HP 1200W is much smaller, much stronger and quiet as anything, you can't hear it if you are next to it. Happy programming!!
Hi there, that's a very useful comment! Looking to build my own voltage stabilizer too, I can get a hp DPS-1200FB relatively cheap here in the Netherlands. Noticed there are some different Versions like pd19, 1a, does it matter which one I take? Also does it require any modifications like shown in this video? If so could you help me with guiding me in the right direction?
Thank you for a great video, I got same model PSU and did exact same modification you described in this video and set it 14V, but today i measured the voltage it was 17V. Is it normal, any advice
Hello Francesco, I am building the DPS maintainer and need to know what wattage and tolerance is the 1K olm resistor???? Any recommendations for manufacturer of resistor??
Hello, I have built this but with HP DPS-1200FB psu, everything is fine, I'm having 14.38v at idle not connected to the car, the psu is pretty warm even after running with no load, is this ok ?
Gracias por la ayuda en hacerte tu propia fuente de alimentación. Pero no me gusta las transiciones entre imágenes que haces. Me mareo. Did you a 3d cover?
Do you know why my multimeter is showing over 18V? Followed along as the video but cant seem to adjust the voltage. Would it make a difference I used this resistor SNS 1K ohm 1/4 Watt Carbon Film Resistor 5% Tolerance
Well done Francesco, great tutorial. Do you know maybe if I put two together paralell, that I can get out double of Amp’s, must bridge (if yes, which pin) them or not? Tnx
ciao Francesco, grazie per i tuoi video, ho comprato il tuo stesso alimnetatore stessa sigla ma al momento della saldatura del componente interno e diverso dal tuo, mi sai dire vode l'hai comprato? grazie.
Big like to that. Is it realy needed one of them while coding? Even if you are doing like small coding for a few minutes? Thanks for sharing that with us Francesco!!!!
I can get a 750w 60A power supply from a dell r510. Do I still need to change the voltage from 12v to 14v? Or would it work without modifying the voltage?
@@FrancescoGalante91 I bypassed the OVP a different way but had to use 680R resistor because the voltage dropped to 12v. Now I have 13,7 which is fine for me. So thanks for this video!!
Ciao Francesco, io ho il modello DPS-750PB A, che è simile a quello del video ...ma aprendolo è diverso. Ho il modo di utilizzarlo per lo scopo? Grazie per la risposta.
Did the flashing actually take 7h??? As in you clicked Start and it took 7h to finish??? 😲 Or does it mean you went through several flashing sessions 7h in total?
Ottimo tutorial, però i cavi invece che saldarli sarebbe stato meglio bloccarli con dei morsetti, al passaggio di correnti così elevate scaldano e lo stagno potrebbe fondere assieme alla colla a caldo
Can you sell me one please? I need to flash the ECU modules in my BMW and i don't want to spend 300-400 euro in a big professional charger or buy from Aliexpress etc. I'm in Europe so it'd be easy for you to send it.
BMW programming is a very risky activity on such a power supply. The manufacturer recommends a current of about 70 amperes. The actual consumption of course strongly depends on the configuration of the car and what we have in this case may be enough for some cars.
![เบิ้ล ปทุมราช - อ้ายกินดอง น้องลาบงัว ft. สแน็ก อัจฉรีย์ [Teaser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n863TMuA1Ck/mqdefault.jpg)
This just saved me having to go to the main stealer for a battery replacement recoding. Built it a few months back to diag a fault and today I used it to reprogram the ecu for a new battery install. It saved me over £120 and 3 hours to get to the main stealer and back :). Thank you!!!
Technically, the Server Switching power supply module is not a power supply it is a preregulator, hence its low cost. The server motherboard will take this noisy raw supply voltage and regulate it down to be used with the electronics. As a result, at high currents the supply will generate condisderable noise. The target for jump start post sustaining is 50mV p-p for a switching PS at worse case current condition. So you should use an oscilloscope to see what the server power supply is actually supplying in terms of voltage and current waveforms. If you take a closer look at the specs for a charger that claims is safe for reflashing see if the specs list a p-p noise fiqure at a current rating. Most do not.
What is really needed is a slow increase in system voltage at the jump start posts, with a source that is as electrically quiet as the battery, and not a sudden voltage step as shown in the video. This step change is seen directly at the module inputs, and because applied at the jump start posts, is not filtered like if connected at the battery. Also, in a classical sense for charging, any connection to the vehicle for charging (sustaining) should be done with a nonsparking power off technique.
In many vehicle service manual procedures chargers are not recommended for reflashing. All the chargers I have looked at that claim to have a sustainer function do not recommend using jump start posts and need to be directly connected at the battery. This is becuase many use noisy voltage switching techniques, which is fine for charging a stand-alone battery, but not reflashing from jump start posts.
I use a linear PS and a home made rectifier (big diode with cooling fan) so I can set the supply low like 11.0 Volts, connect to the jump start posts (no step change and no current supplied, either forward or reverse) and slowly ramp up the voltage as I watch the supply current increase. What you will see is the classic constant voltage decreasing current profile as the battery starts to take a charge. In many cases, unless the battery is fully charged, a sustainer is actually putting a charge on the battery as it sustains the vehicle for reflashing. This is to be expected and is one reason why sustainer current requirements are so high, you may use 10 Amps just to charge the battery. The other reason is that after programming a module the setup/cal procedure may require actuating loads. When reflashing a module it is not executing strategy and should not require a large amount of current. What happens after programming and reset is usually a procedure to test functionality, which will in some cases actuate high current loads. Some may be very large like electric motor assist power steering or cooling fans.
Another interesting result in supporting high currents with clamp at posts is that clamps are not that good at conducting large currents. How a toothed clamp attaches to a post is not that ideal of an electrical connection. A better approach, if you plan on keeping a vehicle or reflashing often, is to wire in a keyed connector pigtail with fuse to the posts underhood (with weatherproof sealed boots) or near the battery on the vehicle side of the current sensor in the trunk. This pin (barrel or wiper) connection is much lower resistance than a clamp and by using a keyed connector reverse polarity is eliminated, and you also eliminate the possibility that a clamp may spring loose during reflashing. There are many different OEM connector types that can handle 50 Amps (APP, Delphi, Deutsch, etc.).
Are you indirectly saying that we should do this?
This is absolutely brilliant. Definitely liked and subscribed. very informative! keep up the good work!
You sir are amazing, been meaning to build one of these for a while thank you!!!!!
Thank You For Watching Man! :-)
Awesome content! Your channel is so far the best and most informative! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Man! :-)
Thanks so much for this! You just saved me 300EUR that I was ready to splurge on MST 80.
Thank You For Watching! :-)
Just saw this, well done! Built one myself a week ago used 6AWG though, plan to code VTG module in next day or two.
Thank You For Watching! :-)
amazing work dude 👏 I will watch all your videos you sir got one more subscriber
Thanks Man! :-)
Francesco, what wattage and tolerance is the 1K ohm resistor? fantastic videos I subscribed to your channel.
Complimenti Sei veramente FORTISSIMO, l'unica pecca avere un ITALIANO così preparato in questo campo che però non fa neanche un video in lingua madre 🇮🇹
Grazie Mille però preferisco l'inglese per avere più visualizzazioni :)
@@FrancescoGalante91 ok sicuramente. Ma almeno una doppia traduzione inglese/italiano scritta
Great video! Thanks for sharing with us!How about place a polyester capacitor in parallel with a ceramic capacitor with values as 10nFx100v and 10pfx100v between the positive and negative pole of the power supply when connecting it to the battery car? This will avoid the difference potential between the power supply voltage and the car battery problem that can cause a voltage spike (that cause that little smoke at about 7:25 when connected the negative pole of the power supply )and damage some module of the car in my humble opinion.
Good content !! Best channel ! Please can I use DPS-650AB or is not enough ? Thanks
I had the same exact PSU and I sold it. The problem is 700W PSU with 14v will give about 50AMPS. On F series BMW recommends 70+ amps or 60+ amps, I don`t remember. Right now I built another few weeks ago, an HP DPS-1200FB HSTNS-PD11. Therefore at 1200W and 14.3V I`m getting 80+ amps. Although the same PSU as yours worked perfectly on 10+ cars, I don`t want to risk, as something I`m flashing whole car, not only HU.
FYI, to find the Amps from a source, do this. wattage of the PSU divided by the voltage set and you get the amps.
The HP DPS-1200FB is so quiet, that last night I forgot it turned on and didn`t realised. Paid 12GBP for it and is amazing.
I'm looking to put it in a old toolbox, with a screen DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD screen to show me the Voltage, Current, Power and Energy measurements in one combo.
Also, for the turn on jumper I used a rocket switch (on / off) to not start directly when is plugged to the power. That switch will be integrated to the toolbox :D
Maybe is a good idea for you as well, but this HP 1200W is much smaller, much stronger and quiet as anything, you can't hear it if you are next to it.
Happy programming!!
Have you any link with description of modification that PSU?
Hi there, that's a very useful comment! Looking to build my own voltage stabilizer too, I can get a hp DPS-1200FB relatively cheap here in the Netherlands. Noticed there are some different Versions like pd19, 1a, does it matter which one I take? Also does it require any modifications like shown in this video? If so could you help me with guiding me in the right direction?
@AlexDinu87 how did you disable the overvoltage protection?
@@bogdanmorar9906 I soldered a bridge. I checked online for that 'motherboard'
Thank you for a great video, I got same model PSU and did exact same modification you described in this video and set it 14V, but today i measured the voltage it was 17V. Is it normal, any advice
Hello Francesco, I am building the DPS maintainer and need to know what wattage and tolerance is the 1K olm resistor???? Any recommendations for manufacturer of resistor??
Hi. Does the unit need to be a rev 4, or is that simply the newest model?
Hello, I have built this but with HP DPS-1200FB psu, everything is fine, I'm having 14.38v at idle not connected to the car, the psu is pretty warm even after running with no load, is this ok ?
would it work if i used a universal voltage stabilizer from ebay? i need to program with insta p.
Gracias por la ayuda en hacerte tu propia fuente de alimentación. Pero no me gusta las transiciones entre imágenes que haces. Me mareo. Did you a 3d cover?
Is this one oké to use?
Delta power supply dps-750PB A E306920-007
Input: 100-127V~/ 11.0A
200-240V~/5.5A
Output: 750W MAX
+12V / 62.0A
+5Vbs / 3.0A
Do you know why my multimeter is showing over 18V? Followed along as the video but cant seem to adjust the voltage. Would it make a difference I used this resistor SNS 1K ohm 1/4 Watt Carbon Film Resistor 5% Tolerance
Well done Francesco, great tutorial. Do you know maybe if I put two together paralell, that I can get out double of Amp’s, must bridge (if yes, which pin) them or not? Tnx
Thanks Man! Rather get a power supply with more watts, at least 1000-1200w
Also, if you are making this way, you will get 24v +, not only double the amps. Putting 24v is not something I would do :D
If you wire parallel you will get double amps, same voltage. If you wire serial you will get double voltage, same amps ;)
Is there a downside to upsizing the unit to a 1600 instead of a 700?
Ciao Francesco, quale resistenza 1k ohm hai usato, quella da 1W, da 2 W o altro?
Grazie mille anche per il video molto chiaro
Will this work with the Delta DPS-750PB ? Is it the same steps? Vid is based on 750EB
Can the Amp be increased to 70A? Thank you
ciao Francesco, grazie per i tuoi video, ho comprato il tuo stesso alimnetatore stessa sigla ma al momento della saldatura del componente interno e diverso dal tuo, mi sai dire vode l'hai comprato? grazie.
Hi have delta dos-700LBD will this work and where can I locate the ovp to link up thank you
Big like to that. Is it realy needed one of them while coding? Even if you are doing like small coding for a few minutes?
Thanks for sharing that with us Francesco!!!!
for how cheap these are its worth it, you don't wanna brick anything.
For Only Coding No, But If You Want to stay maybe 1 hour to try encodings or to update the maps yes :-)
@@FrancescoGalante91 thanks. Seen all your videos. Keep up the good work.
Can I use a Delta "DPS-750EB" or "DPS-700 G" instead of "DPS-700 A"? The same procedure will apply to these models?
Yes Same Procedure! :-)
what full specification is that resistor ?
I can get a 750w 60A power supply from a dell r510. Do I still need to change the voltage from 12v to 14v? Or would it work without modifying the voltage?
Yes but You should bring the voltage to 14v
Can you clamp onto the board instead of soldering? basically, clamp on both sides, at the car and at the PSU?
you can, but is not really safe :D They can disconnect easily
Will it work with any DPS-700? GB, A, EB etc? I guess they're just the market they're sold in?
the ovp will be different and also maybe the pinouts
Francesco, ma la resistenza da quanti watt mi consigli di metterla?
Hi, thank you for the guide, i made one as well but as soon as i plug it on the car it goes down to 1.2v, any idea why? Thanks
Bad soldering on terminals.
Yes check Soldering ;)
Thanks for the reply, resoldered the bridge on the board and the resistor and it works great.
Hi there, can I buy the delta dps-750eb instead of the type that you use dps-700eb? And is everything the same as shown in the video to make it work?
Yes Sir!
@@FrancescoGalante91 I bypassed the OVP a different way but had to use 680R resistor because the voltage dropped to 12v. Now I have 13,7 which is fine for me. So thanks for this video!!
What gauge wire did you use? I'm having problems soldering it on.
Awg 4 in copper, if you use aluminum you will have problems soldering with tin
@@FrancescoGalante91 I think I can't get my soldering iron hot enough, gonna buy a new one soon and try it again. It was copper also.
Hi how much you sell them for ? Do you ship to us ?
WOW, what a genial idea! Awesome job Francesco! Can you then use it as a regular charger too? Many thanks...
Yes Sir! :-)
Ciao Francesco, io ho il modello DPS-750PB A, che è simile a quello del video ...ma aprendolo è diverso. Ho il modo di utilizzarlo per lo scopo? Grazie per la risposta.
Ciao Si, l'importante è il voltaggio di uscita che deve essere superiore a 13,7V
Price for this i need one
Did the flashing actually take 7h??? As in you clicked Start and it took 7h to finish??? 😲
Or does it mean you went through several flashing sessions 7h in total?
Ive seen some take upwards of 20h depending on how much software needs updating
Ottimo tutorial, però i cavi invece che saldarli sarebbe stato meglio bloccarli con dei morsetti, al passaggio di correnti così elevate scaldano e lo stagno potrebbe fondere assieme alla colla a caldo
Perché hai flashato in uds? 7 ore di programmazione 😯 quando bastano 40 minuti
No ti garantisco che lo sto usando molto e zero problemi di calore, ho cavi AWG4, infatti rimangono freddi :-)
@@smerckibmw9339 Eh in HTTP mi dava errore, e poi UDS è molto più affidabile, infatti poi a tempo perso ho completato tutta le ECU della macchina
@@FrancescoGalante91 hai usato enet? Xke io ho flashato anche a banco decine di nbt e evo e mai nessuno piantato
Can you sell me one please? I need to flash the ECU modules in my BMW and i don't want to spend 300-400 euro in a big professional charger or buy from Aliexpress etc. I'm in Europe so it'd be easy for you to send it.
If you are in europe, the web is full of used power supplies
@@FrancescoGalante91 yeah i bought a different one, HP DPS 800GB 1000W 82amps at 12V. Gonna mod it to 14V at 71amps...i think it's more than enough
@@carlosmiguel4756 how do you know what to solder where and what resistor to use?
Hello my friend
Do you have a social medya adress?
1 ohm resistor but how many Watts?
Can you sell me one please 😃
building it is very simple :-)
BMW programming is a very risky activity on such a power supply. The manufacturer recommends a current of about 70 amperes. The actual consumption of course strongly depends on the configuration of the car and what we have in this case may be enough for some cars.
hello.. could you make a power supply for me? how can I contact you?