Just doing this now. This kind of build is something that needs to be addressed under EU right to repair law. That plastic weld should be replaced by 2 self tappers.
Thanks so much for this! We had the same problem, actually got an MOT failure which wasn't expected (no other garage has failed it on that before) I used a heat gun like you suggested. I dabble in electronics so actually had a suitable microswitch knocking around. I used solvent weld (like for PVC plumbing) as I don't have a glue gun. which did an okay job in re-attaching the lid. It was a little uneven where I had pried it off so also added some silicone sealant around the perimeter after welding. Let's see how long it lasts - the rubber 'button' actually has a split in it so it's not super weatherproof from the bottom up.
Glad to be of assistance, it is a bit pricey to replace the unit and getting one from the scap dealers does not guarantee a working unit; which is why I thought I'd give it a go. Good luck with it if you've not already done it.
Greetings from Saskatchewan Canada! When I un-solder something like that I heat the solder with the gun tip and have a low air pressure blower nozzle handy. with a small blast of air the solder flies away leaving a clean hole. WEAR goggles! Have to do this on my 2010 I just bought. Then I have to find out why the hatch occasionally pops open as I'm driving. Thanks for the informative video.
Greetings Al and thanks for the tip on the air blower! I've not got a compressor in the garage yet, but I do have one of those air dusters somewhere. Odd that the hatch comes open occasionally on you; good luck finding the problem.
Having a bust fob sucks; boot should open if the car is unlocked and you contact the wires to the boot switch once you take the trim piece off. Hope you can get it sorted!
Thanks for the great video Jerry. Is there a trick to getting the wiring harness connector to separate? I am trying to separate it where you indicated and it isn't releasing.
Hi Jerry, I think you are referring to the plug I show at 4:56. This does come apart but it doesn't need to (the larger part splits from memory to release the cable and small connector end). I show at 6:56 is where the harness comes out of the plug in the light / release handle. It just came out really easily but not at the point it looks like it will which is why I mentioned it at 4:56. Don't think there was even a tab to push it came out just by pulling it apart. Hope that helps and sorry if I've misunderstood your question.
Hi well after watching the tutorial for the switch removal I decided to have a go soldering iron and switch in hand The result is a FAIL couldn’t get the old switch out the circuit board No matter how much heat I applied seems so tight So it’s now back on the car still not working Any advice hints ? Thanks
Hi sorry missed your comment. I seem to recall there may have been some tabs soldered in. Unfortunately I’ve not got the car anymore so can’t verify. Thanks for watching
Hi Jerry, great video, my problem is the weather shield has corroded away and need to replace that, do you know if it's possible or do I need to replace the whole thing? I can see weather shield replacements for sale online but I can't see a join with the original one I have currently fitted....any help would be great. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I think the rubber weather shield comes as part of that rear light unit and not something readily replaced. You might be able to remove what is there and fix in a sheet of rubber (old inner tube perhaps?). I saw a few videos removing this rubber to get to the damaged switch behind. This is why I did my repair the way I did mine as I wasn’t confident to get a good replacement rubber put back. Good luck with yours if you go that route.
@@JerryMotorsport thanks for the reply Jerry, I've bought one on ebay, I think I'll need to cut the old rubber out and push the new into place, a weekend job I think!
Hi Jerry - excellent video, thanks. Quick question: does the new switch need any particular orientation when fitted into the PCB or does it not matter with this style of switch?
Thanks for watching and for the feedback. From memory the switch connects across pairs of terminals so it could be put 90 degrees out and not work. I checked which terminals to use using the continuity tester on my multi-meter. Good luck with the repair.
@@JerryMotorsport Thanks Jerry. I followed your tip and buzzed-out the switches that I bought, it turned out all pins/legs connected to each other when the button was pressed down (and therefore made the contact that the Mini' PCB needed). Anyway thanks to your video the boot-release appears to be working again now. Much obliged.
Hi Tim I’m not sure if that would drain the battery but I suppose it might if it was always sending power to the locking solenoid. Hope you got it sorted.
Dear Jerry, many thanks for your Video. Have the same issue and ordered new switches. How can i find out in which position to fix them. Does the position matter ? kind regards Udo
Hi yes you need to get the orientation right. I tested the pins that connected using a multimeter on continuity test mode and then soldered the switch into the circuit board so it connected the circuit. If it goes in 90 degrees wrong the terminals are connected so it will operate the boot opening constantly. Good luck with the repair!
Can you tell me the size of those switches please as the ones I ordered from that link you supplied and very small, only 6x6mm and the one in your video looks bigger than that
Hi jerry, thanks for the video. My wife's Mini Cooper D is having a similar problem, so I will attempt your repair (switches ordered). The remote key button will not open it either, could this be another problem? Also, do you have a technique for getting the outer cover off (ours is chrome)? And is it easier to prize it off while still fitted to the tailgate? Sorry for asking too many questions!!! Regards Chris
The out cover comes off pretty easily once the whole unit is removed. You won’t be able to get to the numerous little tabs until you remove the housing from the car. The cover retaining clips just need a gentle prizing to get them disconnected. The covers are the same whether in body colour or chromed. Hardest part was un-welding the internal cover under the outer cover. Good luck!
Chris, just before you take the unit apart, it’s worth checking the boot mechanism still works by making a connection between the trigger wires that are left hanging out of the boot lid (sorry can’t remember which two they were). When you touch the two correct wires together, the boot mechanism should work if the car is unlocked. This will confirm the switch is the problem. Also the key fob will work to open it (that’s how I was opening my boot for months). Mine was quite obviously the switch that had broken as lots of bits of switch could be heard rattling around inside the housing one I took it off and before I opened it up..
@@JerryMotorsport Thanks for the prompt reply and advice Jerry; as the key remote will not open the tailgate either, I am now thinking it must be the latch itself. Now I need to find out how to get the tailgate open without any electrics🤔 I would appreciate any advice on that? Cheers, Chris
That was exactly the scenario on my car; boot lid switch did nothing and I could only open the boot by holding the key fob open button. If the boot is opening with the fob, the solenoid / actuator must be good so pretty likely to be the switch. If you can get to the wires coming out of the switch by removing the four bolts holding the number plate lights and boot switch mouding, disconnect the plug to the switch and connect the two contacts in the plug coming out of the boot panel with a little jumper wire and it should make the boot lock operate. Then you can try my cheap repair that maintains the rubber seal, risk a second hand unit from a car breakers or fork out for a complete new unit. Good luck!
Fantastic repair. Did mine today and working like a dream. Thanks for taking the time to show us this!
Hi Mark, glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching and for the feedback.
Just doing this now. This kind of build is something that needs to be addressed under EU right to repair law. That plastic weld should be replaced by 2 self tappers.
Great video, managed to fix mine for a fraction of the cost of buying a new part!
Glad it worked for you too.
Great, thanks. Cheap switch from eBay and your video showed me how. Now working. Thanks again
Thanks for the feedback Dave glad I’ve been able to help another Mini owner.
Repaired mine today, saved me a fortune thanks for the help.
Great to hear! I know the switch is faily basic and it is not as good as a replacement unit, but the cost saving is significant.
Thanks so much for this! We had the same problem, actually got an MOT failure which wasn't expected (no other garage has failed it on that before) I used a heat gun like you suggested. I dabble in electronics so actually had a suitable microswitch knocking around. I used solvent weld (like for PVC plumbing) as I don't have a glue gun. which did an okay job in re-attaching the lid. It was a little uneven where I had pried it off so also added some silicone sealant around the perimeter after welding. Let's see how long it lasts - the rubber 'button' actually has a split in it so it's not super weatherproof from the bottom up.
Glad this was a helpful video and has saved you from a costly replacement part. Thanks for watching and commenting
Just followed your instructions, worked perfect. Many thanks
Glad it helped another Mini owner avoid an expensive repair 😁
Brilliant video, I had the same issue, and you’ve just saved a trip to the stealers, sorry I meant dealers. ThankYou very much.
Glad to be of assistance, it is a bit pricey to replace the unit and getting one from the scap dealers does not guarantee a working unit; which is why I thought I'd give it a go. Good luck with it if you've not already done it.
@@JerryMotorsport I’ve fixed it … I’m over the moon… I’ve actually fixed something. Thank you again.
Greetings from Saskatchewan Canada! When I un-solder something like that I heat the solder with the gun tip and have a low air pressure blower nozzle handy. with a small blast of air the solder flies away leaving a clean hole. WEAR goggles! Have to do this on my 2010 I just bought. Then I have to find out why the hatch occasionally pops open as I'm driving. Thanks for the informative video.
Greetings Al and thanks for the tip on the air blower! I've not got a compressor in the garage yet, but I do have one of those air dusters somewhere. Odd that the hatch comes open occasionally on you; good luck finding the problem.
Great video thanks, just about to do this on our Cooper D.
Thanks, great video! Did my trunk release, works well.
Glad it worked; thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Thanks for the information! I didn’t know this was a common ailment of the R56. What sucks for me is the key fob doesn’t work either.
Having a bust fob sucks; boot should open if the car is unlocked and you contact the wires to the boot switch once you take the trim piece off. Hope you can get it sorted!
Thanks for the great video Jerry. Is there a trick to getting the wiring harness connector to separate? I am trying to separate it where you indicated and it isn't releasing.
Hi Jerry, I think you are referring to the plug I show at 4:56. This does come apart but it doesn't need to (the larger part splits from memory to release the cable and small connector end). I show at 6:56 is where the harness comes out of the plug in the light / release handle. It just came out really easily but not at the point it looks like it will which is why I mentioned it at 4:56. Don't think there was even a tab to push it came out just by pulling it apart. Hope that helps and sorry if I've misunderstood your question.
@@JerryMotorsport Thanks for your reply. It finally came apart where you indicated after squirting in a little WD40.
Spot on fix mine tonight thanks
Thanks for the feedback; hope your repair goes well.
Thanks for the great video
Thanks for the feedback
Hi well after watching the tutorial for the switch removal I decided to have a go soldering iron and switch in hand
The result is a FAIL couldn’t get the old switch out the circuit board
No matter how much heat I applied seems so tight
So it’s now back on the car still not working
Any advice hints ?
Thanks
Hi sorry missed your comment. I seem to recall there may have been some tabs soldered in. Unfortunately I’ve not got the car anymore so can’t verify. Thanks for watching
Hi Jerry, great video, my problem is the weather shield has corroded away and need to replace that, do you know if it's possible or do I need to replace the whole thing? I can see weather shield replacements for sale online but I can't see a join with the original one I have currently fitted....any help would be great. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I think the rubber weather shield comes as part of that rear light unit and not something readily replaced. You might be able to remove what is there and fix in a sheet of rubber (old inner tube perhaps?). I saw a few videos removing this rubber to get to the damaged switch behind. This is why I did my repair the way I did mine as I wasn’t confident to get a good replacement rubber put back. Good luck with yours if you go that route.
@@JerryMotorsport thanks for the reply Jerry, I've bought one on ebay, I think I'll need to cut the old rubber out and push the new into place, a weekend job I think!
Hi Jerry - excellent video, thanks. Quick question: does the new switch need any particular orientation when fitted into the PCB or does it not matter with this style of switch?
Thanks for watching and for the feedback. From memory the switch connects across pairs of terminals so it could be put 90 degrees out and not work. I checked which terminals to use using the continuity tester on my multi-meter. Good luck with the repair.
@@JerryMotorsport Thanks Jerry. I followed your tip and buzzed-out the switches that I bought, it turned out all pins/legs connected to each other when the button was pressed down (and therefore made the contact that the Mini' PCB needed). Anyway thanks to your video the boot-release appears to be working again now. Much obliged.
My switch began to Ghost Switch on it's own. Lock, unlock all by itself! Could this be the reason my battery went dead?
Hi Tim I’m not sure if that would drain the battery but I suppose it might if it was always sending power to the locking solenoid. Hope you got it sorted.
Dear Jerry, many thanks for your Video. Have the same issue and ordered new switches. How can i find out in which position to fix them. Does the position matter ? kind regards Udo
Hi yes you need to get the orientation right. I tested the pins that connected using a multimeter on continuity test mode and then soldered the switch into the circuit board so it connected the circuit. If it goes in 90 degrees wrong the terminals are connected so it will operate the boot opening constantly. Good luck with the repair!
Can you tell me the size of those switches please as the ones I ordered from that link you supplied and very small, only 6x6mm and the one in your video looks bigger than that
Yep 6mm is what I ordered and used. About the same size as the original one
@@JerryMotorsport OK thanks. It just the ones I got look a lot smaller than the one in the video. Guess I'll just strip it down and find out :)
Hi there Jerry can i ask what size Tactile Switch did you use please?
Hi Nick, the swiches I bought are 6mm x 6mm Tactile PCB Switches. There is a link in the description if you are in the UK.
Thanks Jerry what height was the switch they vary in height?
Hi jerry, thanks for the video. My wife's Mini Cooper D is having a similar problem, so I will attempt your repair (switches ordered). The remote key button will not open it either, could this be another problem? Also, do you have a technique for getting the outer cover off (ours is chrome)? And is it easier to prize it off while still fitted to the tailgate? Sorry for asking too many questions!!!
Regards
Chris
The out cover comes off pretty easily once the whole unit is removed. You won’t be able to get to the numerous little tabs until you remove the housing from the car. The cover retaining clips just need a gentle prizing to get them disconnected. The covers are the same whether in body colour or chromed. Hardest part was un-welding the internal cover under the outer cover. Good luck!
Chris, just before you take the unit apart, it’s worth checking the boot mechanism still works by making a connection between the trigger wires that are left hanging out of the boot lid (sorry can’t remember which two they were). When you touch the two correct wires together, the boot mechanism should work if the car is unlocked. This will confirm the switch is the problem. Also the key fob will work to open it (that’s how I was opening my boot for months). Mine was quite obviously the switch that had broken as lots of bits of switch could be heard rattling around inside the housing one I took it off and before I opened it up..
@@JerryMotorsport Thanks for the prompt reply and advice Jerry; as the key remote will not open the tailgate either, I am now thinking it must be the latch itself. Now I need to find out how to get the tailgate open without any electrics🤔 I would appreciate any advice on that? Cheers, Chris
Think I have discovered a drawing showing an emergency cable release. 👍
Sorry you seem to have a worse failure on the tailgate. Hope you manage to get it sorted.
Anyone knows,why mine can't be opened manually just works using the remote?
That was exactly the scenario on my car; boot lid switch did nothing and I could only open the boot by holding the key fob open button. If the boot is opening with the fob, the solenoid / actuator must be good so pretty likely to be the switch. If you can get to the wires coming out of the switch by removing the four bolts holding the number plate lights and boot switch mouding, disconnect the plug to the switch and connect the two contacts in the plug coming out of the boot panel with a little jumper wire and it should make the boot lock operate. Then you can try my cheap repair that maintains the rubber seal, risk a second hand unit from a car breakers or fork out for a complete new unit. Good luck!