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Yes belt goes round crankshaft pulley, water pump and alternator (or dynamo if you have one)

Noted, thanks for watching Steve

The front fog lights/ side lights are notoriously bad for getting moisture in them. Rear clusters less so but clearly something upsets the status quo. Glad you found this a useful video!

Glad you found the video helpful. I hope the car you are going to see turns out to be a good example and it signifies the beginning of an adventure!

Hi thanks for watching. Midget was going great last time she drove but I need to get back into the garage and get back into some competition. Unfortunately life took over a bit and my PC had a disastrous crash and I lost a lot of data. Hope to get some more updates soon.

😮. Thanks for watching 😊

Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching

They should be the base Midget ones; as that was what I ordered 😊. They are 95% identical to the original Lucas units with the colour and the minor casting difference, that needed modification, being the only differences.

I’d like better brakes but would need to check the rules for the historic class I enter competition in. Not bad with the servo assist but would be good to have more longevity before getting too hot.

That’s a good idea to make life easier. I did consider heating the hub.

Yes I probably should have titled the video coolant leak located 😂

Indeed I should have been more accurate there 😉

Hi sorry missed your comment. I seem to recall there may have been some tabs soldered in. Unfortunately I’ve not got the car anymore so can’t verify. Thanks for watching

It’s a mystery. It’s almost like they didn’t thing the belt would need maintenance. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback!

Haven’t found the need to grease this area but I guess no harm in doing it if you are worried about the pads catching

Made me smile in the edit 😁

I felt such an idiot but I wanted to share my journey (good and bad) to show it is not at all perfect and maybe entertain and educate along the way 👍

Pretty sure I just shoved it in one of the radiator hoses. Thanks for watching

Hi, sorry for the late reply. It came from Moss I believe (before my time with the car)

Thanks for the tip! Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching 😁

Sorry just seen this comment 😬. Horns came from Moss

Ah sorry missed your question. Unfortunately due to unexpected circumstances I no longer have the Cooper S but we do have a same Gen Mini One so keeping an eye on the issue with that car.

Head gasket now sorted but we found the rigs were broken on two cylinders and then after getting it all back together we had some terrible big end noises. Currently replacing the big ends and mains 😬

Hi Duncan, the version I purchased of the front suspension kit has aircraft style bearings (forget the fancy name for the type) which do not require a regular grease application. In fact the instructions make it very clear to apply NOTHING to these bearings. The version of the arm I was replacing had no grease nipple which was odd so must have been pre the addition of grease nipples. Frontline said that they were making the change to the (fit and forget) aircraft bearings as people didn't grease the joint and the arms would wear out. I assume they have also moved to these bearings on their other kits. Good luck with your MGB.

Oh that's not an easy one. Are the new bearings too small (relative to spec) / same as old ones? If they differ from the old ones you could have a badly machined bearing. If it is the same size as the old all I can think of is that the bearing has been loose previously. Whilst you can rotate it by hand, does it feel loose in the hub (i.e. up and down / side to side)? How easy is it to move? It might be snug enough to torque up and not be an issue, but as I'm not a mechanic by trade, and I haven't seen it for myself, I'm not really going to be offer you your best solution. Sorry; I suggest you ask a local garage for their thoughts perhaps? Good luck.

@@JerryMotorsport I got them from Moss Motors that are supposed to work for 1972 MG Midgets w/Wire wheels - kit part# 125-822. Not sure the size - but I have tried both of them in the kit and they both can be moved by hand - spin and up and down and feel about the same looseness. I will have to search and see what size they are supposed to be. Thanks for the help and I will let you know what I do and the suggestions I get.

I used a punch around the inner surface of the hub surface and used loctite bearing surface 660. Worked great.

Hi Lee, thanks. Yes I'm hoping to get more videos out but my desktop computer had a melt-down (Blue screen of death) and I'm using a laptop to re-do what I had. Thanks for your support and patience.

Thanks Jerry, sorry to hear about the computer, hope it gets sorted. Look forward to the new vids. Perhaps you could do a history segment on how you come to own your 70's Midget and why it ended (apparently) laid-up in the garage for a time. I have issues starting mine whenever it's stood for anything longer than a week, fuel pump struggles to get fuel from tank to carbs, perhaps you could do an episode related to fuel pump, etc? Mine's a 1978 model so differs from yours but would still be good to see. Also handbrake cable replacement/adjustment, etc, etc. Thanks.

Lee, I'm hoping to be doing an update video shortly on what has been going on since the last video. I was thinking about some history on 'Midge' as part of a 'trailer' for the channel. However I'm incredibly busy with my day job (not a mechanic) at the moment; again something I was planning to put into a trailer.

Good news Jerry, I'll look forward to seeing the next updates. Cheers, Lee.

Yes I thing an oil would be good to help keep rust at bay a bit longer

Hi, I would have to check my invoices; I had parts coming from various suppliers. Oddly the driver’s side had the correct flat spot and I didn’t have to get the grinder out.

Thanks Mark, that's not a bad idea. Area did get a good dose of wax and I think I had copper grease in there too. Old ones were replaced so I never tried to take the old ones out. Thanks for watching!

Glad it worked; thanks for watching and leaving a comment.

Glad this was a helpful video and has saved you from a costly replacement part. Thanks for watching and commenting

😂

@@JerryMotorsport 😁😁😁

In this episode I removed the anti-roll bar to clean up and repaint the anti-roll bar and upgrade the mounting bushes to polly. I also found out that the old bushes were the original size but the bar is actually a thicker one (from an MGB I think; 5/8"?? from memory). Coupled with the upgraded suspension arms this really helps with the handling. The roll bar went back on as part of fitting the new suspension to the driver's side.

@@JerryMotorsport Thanks for your time.

Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. To be honest I've not driven a car with the standard dampers; our car came with what must have been the original frontine upgraded front arms. What I can say is that after completing the installation and competing with the car recently, it has great turn-in and almost no understeer. This setup is certainly stiffer than the single arm of the original damper and the modern AVO adjustable dampers give an excellent ride. Worth the investment IMHO.

That’s fantastic to hear. So glad the videos are proving useful. I’m hoping to be stripping down the rear suspension over the winter and perhaps some work on the fuel system. Do let me know if there is something you would like to see me do; it’s always good to have content ideas!

@@JerryMotorsport lubrication points, rear suspension is a good one, I just did the leaf spring bushes and put fresh oil in my rear dampeners. But need to completely disassemble the rear at some point. New gasket on the differential. Bearings. Transmission oil.

The Frontline suspension kit is good. I'd like to get their big brake upgrade and potentially do the rear disc conversion too. Down side it might put me in a different class for my competitions. Thanks for watching!

Caly your bugeye sounds like fun with a 383ci. Thanks for watching!

Good luck with sourcing the sound you are looking for Mike. Out of interest are these new horns of mine that European sound? I thought they sounded rather more modern than I was expecting.

Hi Mike, thanks for watching and an excellent question. I wondered many times when doing this fanbelt work if there was a tensioner system available; I'm not aware of one. Perhaps I should look at fashioning one; although I'd have to be careful not to put excessive load on the pullies and create other problems. In fairness, it has been much better since sorting it out and just one of those things that us classic car owners need to keep a check on. All the best..

Thanks for watching and commenting. I think the rubber weather shield comes as part of that rear light unit and not something readily replaced. You might be able to remove what is there and fix in a sheet of rubber (old inner tube perhaps?). I saw a few videos removing this rubber to get to the damaged switch behind. This is why I did my repair the way I did mine as I wasn’t confident to get a good replacement rubber put back. Good luck with yours if you go that route.

@@JerryMotorsport thanks for the reply Jerry, I've bought one on ebay, I think I'll need to cut the old rubber out and push the new into place, a weekend job I think!

Thanks for the tips. Not got on very well with the gel. The other side went much better and any remaining rust was treated with Hydrate80.

@@JerryMotorsport hope I didn't sound to moany Jerry as I do enjoy watching your videos but I'm becoming bit of an expert with rust treatment as I work on old Fords 😆

​@@JerryMotorsport think the reason why you're struggling with the gel is that it's not supposed to dry out..the clingfilm helps let it "simmer" on the rust. after 24 hrs pull the clingfilm off and the gel "should" be washable. I'm looking at Bilt for my Z3...so it should be interesting!

It’s not great is it. Hope you get it sorted out.

Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful!

Hi, yes I flushed the heater core as well as the main cooling system. The isolation valve is curently stuck in the open position so when I added the flushing chemical it would have gone around the heater matrix too. At 7:51 you can see I've disconnected the hose from the heater isolation valve to fush through fresh water to make sure I got as much cleared as possible from the heater. Ideally I would have used the other hose (upper from the core) and flushed in the opposite direction to normal flow; this was just easier to remove the hose from the valve.