Making Winding Sticks for Flattening Workbench Tops
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2018
- Joshua Farnsworth shows how to make some nice winding sticks, which are used to show twist in boards so woodworkers can remove the twist with hand planes. See the blog post here: woodandshop.com/making-windin...
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Thanks Again Joshua! Looking forward to swinging by your shop some time. I will be giving your channel and school a shoutout in todays Creators Collective Podcast.
This looks really nice though I wish there was more details in the for the beginners. 1. It’s very important to use older lumber (especially quarter sawn or rift sawn for stability) that will not twist or deform in anyway. 2. Except the bottom of two ends, every end of each stick has to be perfectly matched in height - use a calliper! In fact, it’s best to have matched height between the sticks as well to be able to use them in all orientations. 3. The bottom should be perfectly flat for all intensive purposes. You can use a granite block or longer plane unless you are “that good with the planes.” I know the experience woodworkers will know this, but hopefully it will be of use to newer wood workers.
I love this series!
Great tutorial and beautiful cinematography! Those workbenches are very nice as well... Wow! A huge congratulations on opening your woodworking school!
Good project!
So satisfying! Thank you :))
This is very good information thank you for sharing
Very nice
Definitely heard of but ive Never used them b4.Think I'll give a try for my next work bench top once a year I make a new top so maybe this will help keep the top flat a bit longer
Nice, easy project. One useful addition would be a contrasting mark on the face of each winding stick, near the bottom, to mark the center of the stick. Winding sticks should be centered on the workpiece so that gravity doesn't throw off the alignment, and a mark like that helps.
Good video & easy to follow. A couple questions after watching:
1) You talked about not having the right size winding sticks for this larger project. I assume that means you have a range of sizes (and presumably sets of each), and the inlaid piece is always a little bit inside of the overall width?
2) On your milling step, you made your marks on the faces of those corners. What's the advantage of doing that vs a right angle mark on the ends of the board?
Thanks!
To be clear - on workbench builds, cut tenons on the top of the legs first, then cut the mortises on the top?
Yes, that's how I do it.
Off topic question: What lumber are you using for the workbenches?
MadMulberry Red Oak
Are you going to have the movarian workbench class in the future? VA is much closer to me than NC
Probably not...at least not this year. Will is maxed out on Moravian workbench classes for the year (it takes a lot of prep work), but he is teaching two classes at my school this year: store.woodandshop.com/wood-and-shop-traditional-woodworking-school/
Wood and Shop thanks for the reply. Hope to make it to your shop one day!
Hope to see you here!