Performabuilt shows you how to space your converter the easy way!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- A short video on Converter Spacing! Probably the single most important responsibility of a customer other than servicing and filling. Avoid broken pumps and failed pumps by following along with us in this video! www.performabuilt.com
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wont the bolts suck that gap away if you dont out the washers in the gap? im not sure i understand your point here. you eliminated the washers because the converter housing was larger yet you still have 3/16'' gap?
@@pearlrival3124 No your missing the point. rewatch and check out some other spacing videos. This is automotive basics that must be done every time an install takes place.
You guys are awesome! I’m installing my engine now. Trans is already in and good to go. This was very insightful. Can’t wait to see how she performs!
How did this adjustment work out ?????
Thank you for the knowledge Ryan 🙏🏻
Keep in mind the closer you are to (1/8), the more surface you have for the torque converter to distribute the torque to the rotor.
Good shit, keep it up 👍🏻
Great video! I'm just now bolting my converter to flex plate . 454 - 4l60e. I have about 3/16 spacing, maybe 7/32. So I guess I'll need a thin washer between them and then tighten to specs to achieve back space on converter to trans. Have I got that correct?
I appreciate the information. It seems like a feeler gauge would be handy if the right drill bits weren't around.
there are lots of simple tools available for measuring simply in a tight space
Probably same question answered time ago, but once you gap the Torque Convertor and when you tight the bolts, wouldn't the tighten of the bolts will close the gap back to zero? I am missing something? or should I use some washers to keep the gap?
This question has been messing up my brain.
Very well done. I gained .092 on the clearance because the converter was cut open and rewelded.
Great video
Your videos are great. When did FTI start designing 9.5” LS billet converters that need that damn adapter on the snout? Only different I had was a new converter and it used the adapter. Had to use 2 washers and got it about 1/8”. Pain in the ass. Last 2 needed no washers.
Couple years ago they went to LT based backings. Ls cores are scarce
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions my dumb ass thought, my last 2 converters didn’t use that adapter…this one doesn’t need it. I went to space the converter and realized I needed that damn spacer.
Hey man I have a question my converter is seated all the way but I can’t fit a 3/16 drill bit between the pad and converter what should I do I bought the jegs shim kit but I thought u use them if it’s more than 3/16 I’m just confused and don’t wanna ruin my new motor
Should be 1/8 minmum clearance to 3/16 maximum clearance . If you have 1/8 or .125 your fine.
I just used this trick to put in a 4l60e for my first time. But.. rip 3-4 clutch pack😮
It was bound to happen
Absolutely
Thanks man
Hi Ryan, Thanks so much for all the information you provide. I watched your 4L80e video a couple of times (I am building one). My question is about flexplate wobble. I have a brand new SFI certified neutral balanced Flexplate. When I took the crankshaft in for balancing they mounted the flexplate and it wobbles about .040" TIR (no runout). It did not affect the balance as he checked the crankshaft with and without the flexplate. I am a bit concerned with the movement. Is it too much? I am thinking it might straighten once bolted to the converter, but do not want to stress the pump, pump bushing, or the rear main of the engine. I was thinking about straightening it but feel it might be best to send it back. There is no sign of physical stress or damage. Appreciate your thoughts and time, thank you. Paul
Typically they straighten out or if its spinning while running its kind of an optical illusion. But SFI should be straight always because they have very little flex. If you have access to a tru table that will tell you if its rly flat. If it is flat you may have something else going on
so, the maximum gap somewhere between 1/8" & 3/16", and just use a drill bit ...... I gather this would work for a 200-4R and 350 chevy.... or just about any other gm tranny and engine?
Just about any engine / trans from GM
So you have the converter pushed all the way into the trans. When you bolt to flywheel you only want the converter to pull to the flywheel 1/8 to 3/16? Is this correct?
Yes exactly
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions is that only for performance builds or stock as well?
I have an 85 Buick regal and the spacing between the converter and the flex plate it’s about half an inch pull the converter Over to the flexplate and it runs fine
So only tighten the torque converter bolts to proper clearance, and not all they way tight? Should I simply lossen the bolts to achieve proper clearance? Is there a chance of the bolts shearing or catching the fly wheel if loosened? 09 silverado 4l60e
So fully seat converter then only tighten to proper clearance? And since I originally "ugghahed" them in it most likely pulled the converter too far out of the pump huh?
What if mine has a big gap is it safe to put 4 Flat Washer on each with longer bolts?
No, you have the wrong converter /trans combo or your flexplates wrong or backwards.
Still wanting 2 of those servo kits😩🙏🏼
Just changed my engine, with old engine I had to put 1 washer on each bolt to achieve proper 1/8” clearance, with new engine and new flexplate same tci as on the old engine I now have .075” clearance with no washer?
Spacing will change every time you swap either engine, trans, or converter. You must respace to 1/8 or you will break the trans pump guarenteed. Sounds like you dont have the converter all the way in at 3/40ths and same result if you havent broken it already mated up. Something is wrong with your engine/trans/ converter combo for sure
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions thank you for responding, I’m stumped, I’ve got .075” clearance with converter pushed back, I’ll mic the new flex-plate and compare it with old one, both are tci, and see if it’s thicker, other than that idk, converter was never in bind during engine install, I pushed it all the way in when removing the old engine, so I’m in a dilemma, ati says .100” minimum. I’m close if I’ve got .075” and converter is somehow not push in all the way?
What engine did you replace with the old one?
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I took out a stock block stock crank 427bbc, and put in a 400 stock block sbc w/Cola aftermarket crank, I worked on it today, I took out converter bolts and shoved converter back all the way and spun it several times and push back more, anyway I was able to get .105” feeler gauge to fit, Ati says minimum of a .100” so I’m gonna try it.
🤘🏼
What type of washer shims to use?
Any good quality hardened washer you can get that meets your clearance needs. Available at nearly any hardware store
I don’t understand you leave a space, but then you bolted together, so ended up being no space???
Since the flexplate is spring steel and as you accelerate forces push the converter bending the flexplate towards the transmission and when you let off the gas it springs back away from the transmission into its resting state. That is why a space before boltup is important. When you bolt it up you pull the converter away from the trans to the flexplate creating the space needed for travel.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions i tightened up 4 bolts on a Chris. Sequence gradually over 6 turns and did not leave any space as the bolts will force them together so I hope that last. I had to resort to do it myself after AAMCO not honoring warranty .. bummer
I have a chevy astro, that the transmission failed(3 -4 clutch pack) it was a rebuilt brand new, all I am doing is removing the transmission and install new clutch. putt it back together with converter, do I need to do this spacing thing. I have seen videos about this issue, but most of this videos are for people that have car with different parts than the original OEM, I feel like my is just a remove and install .
Yours is probably just a removal install unless you choose to get a new converter then things will change
I just changed cases on a turbo 350 and now I don't have enough clearance for the converter to spin freely, yes the converter is in all the way. How do I correct this ?
The converter definitely is not in all the way. Thats all it can be if all you did was change cases and re install
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I can stick the tip of my finger in between the converter and case, to me it's all the way back. I'll check again tonight, thanks for the reply
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions yes, only changed case
Its definitely not in. Thats all that can be
I got a 1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme with a very modified Olds 350 engine under the hood I put a 2200 stall converter in the Turbo 350 Transmission when I went the bolted up and noticed that the stall converter withdrawing way too much to the engine. My question is do I put shims / washers to make up the space difference between the flex wheel in the stall converter?
your spacing with or without shims must be 1/8 to 3/16 AND you should never use a high milage or old or worn flexplate. if you have doubts then change it or you will break your pump.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions the flexplate it's not broke or forewarn I did put in shim's measuring 1/8 I believe that 3/16 will be a little bit thick. I do thank you for your help
I'm installing a new transmission on a f150 I'm wanting to get rid of the dust cover. Will I be ok without it?
It will be more than fine. I never run dust covers on my GM units.
😊
Bolt it up with the washers after checking the spaceing?
Yes if washers are even needed
4l80e circle d converter here I currently have more than 1/8 of spacing while converter is seated all the way into pump but can barely fit a 3/16 drill bit In between converter pads and flex plate I added a 1/16 washer while converter is still seated into pump and now my measurements between the converter and plate is 1/8 am I good to start putting in the bolts so it can pull the converter away from the pump 1/8 essentially leaving a 1/8 pullback?
yes
So sit the convertor all the way to the trans and have a gap that fits a 3/16 drill bit then push the converter against the flywheel?
Exactly!
👌
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissionsfinally got around to install my convertor and I don’t have a 3\16 gap it’s munch smaller but a 1/8 drill bit fits it’s a 4l60e with a l33 5.3 am I good ?
@@javiertrujillo1916 1/8 is good!
@@javiertrujillo1916 make sure your flexplate is new and not used for that tight of a clearance.
I have a 3/16 gap am I fine to bolt it right up to the flex plate or do I have to shim it before tightening it down? Thanks in advance
3/16 is within spec. Your flexplate should be new and not old or worn out as well as properly torqued.
3/16 drill bit fits loose in my application still see a gap between the bit and the torque converter
Is that for all style old transmissions
Yes pretty much
So the convertor is fully presses against rotor when measuring spacing?
Yes. Once space is verified at 1/8 OR 3/16 the converter is pulled away and bolted up so it retains that space
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions when i pull out convertor 1/8" and it touches the flexplate that means i dont need spacer correct?
Basically what you have going on in video correct? With converter fully seated youre left with 1/8" space?
yes
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions thank you !
Will wrong chiming cause not reving more than 4k rmps??
Wrong timing will cause that issue and pressure issues.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions okay sounds good I’m having that issue on the dyno maybe I had it wrong thanks 🙏🏻
Wouldn't the bolts back out if there aren't any shims. I mean ur leaving a gap how would you achieve that without washers or anything
The gap is the required space for the pump rotor and converter neck. When the spacing is acheived and it is bolted together to close the gap, the gap moves to the rotor and neck instead of the flex and converter pads. Its transmission install 101, you can read about it more in depth directly from GM and Ford.
I'm at the point of putting the bolts in. I've got x3 3/16 do I use spacers then titen bolts or not?@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions
No because your already at 3/16
I had no shim on old flex plate then put new flex plate in added 3/16 spacers now a ticking sound has appeared
Not good and 3/16 spacers is wayyyy too much. You have a mismatch problem i feel
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions thanks
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions thanks for responding
I removed ths spacers put it back the way it was . Put on a new pan casket added 4 quarts of transmission oil . Started it up wanted to put it in gear so the oil could begin to pump and flow . I couldn't get it to move . Went though all gears nothing. Rebuild the turbo 2 years ago worked fine before I put the new flexplate on . Only moved it back 7 inchs to get to the bolts on the flexplate. I cant figure it out
Idk i would hire a professional to sort this one out. Usually flexxplate to converter spacing is pretty cut and dry
Torque specs for flexplate to crank and for flexplate to converter (your level 3 4L60E on 93 Camaro LT1)?
Consult your converter and flexplate manufactuer. Those numbers will be their specs and what they require.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I was told to get a new flexplate when installing your transmission but funds are low and the existing flexplate (TCI 153 tooth, SFI 29.1, external balance, but not billet) is in great shape…trying to save some $$$$
The sfi one you have should be fine if its lightly used.
Is your flex plate flat
Sure is. Trucks been through 3 different combos over the years and has moved the entire shop once
How much horsepower can a level 3 hold up to or is there a higher 1 I will be installing a precision 7675mm turbo but might eventually go twin precision 7675mm turbos by the I know I will end up doing the 4l80 conversion if and when how much for a fully built 4l80 if I send a core
Not sure about Performabuilt, but others claim 700-800 HP out of a fully built 4L60E platform.
I bought one, 900rwhp
level 3 is good for 900whp based on 4000lbs. Our Black Edition will hold excess of 1000whp based on 4000lbs
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions my truck is a YukonXl 6300+lbs it will be lowered with alot lighter wheels and tires so how much would it be for the black edition but do you build 4l80e's to hold possibly 2000+whp
At 6300+ you just divided all of our power ratings in half. Thats extremely heavy. Your better off with a 4L80E
How come you don’t upload anymore?
We have been so busy since i started with lead times at 10 weeks per unit over the last 2 yrs i had to help build and couldnt handle anymore buisness. Someday i do intend to get back at it
Can I get the link to get that servo?
We do not sell it or other parts, sorry
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions 👌🏼
Hey I was able to fit a 3/16 drill bit thru mines . The whole thing . With little to no movement . Do you think I should shim with it a 7/16 washer ?
It’s an ls setup with a stock converter
3/16 is fine or you could get it closer to 1/8 which is preferred. Make sure your flexplate is in good condition with low miles or it will overflex and cause the same issue of bad spacing