That was a great explanation. That finally gave me a clear method to do it right and it just makes sense with the other stuff I’ve seen about the damage it can do if not done right
Thank you so much for this one. I have a 700R4 and a new torque converter and ever sence than I have had bebre in my oil. So I pulled the motor to find the Thrust barring had some shiny spots. So fingers crossed thats the issue.
Nice video. Can you talk more on the snout on the converter into the crank. please. How much of the converter snout should be in the crank? like .100 or .125 and it still needs room to move back and forth. You did touch on it a bit. Thank you.
I’m confused, did you say the crank has 100 thousandths play? Doesn’t that mean the thrust bearing is totally shot? Each transmission has different specs and thank you for pointing out the importance of these specs!
So a friend and I are about to remove his mom's xmsn a 4th time. -1st round: lots of smoke, lost power, trail of fluid. We replaced the seal at the front. They drove around 30 minutes, started leaking badly when they came back and idled in park. That was the original converter. -2nd round: realized we needed the 9.8" bolt pattern instead of the 9.75" -3rd round: put in 9.8" converter, filled fluid and idled for 15 min. A trail of fluid was left on the driveway backing out. A giant puddle was left on the street when stopped and shifting to drive, he pulled forward and left a moderate trail, and then another puddle was left when I was yelling at him to get back in driveway. Here are my questions. Does the converter get pressed toward the flex plate when it's under load? If my gap was too large, would this explain no leak in park, dribbling when slowly backing out, but gushing in gear at a stop?
@@nsboost Why would I do that and not just get a spacer that is the thickness I need? If I absolutely had no choice, but to use multiple washers which I've never done I would probably super glue them together.
Thak you for this information. I note that (according to the Haynes manual) a mark should be made on both the torque converter and driveplate showing their relationship for reinstallation. However, I'm going to be installing a remanufactured engine into my 2008 mazda 3i 2 0L. Do you have any words of wisdom on how to properly determine this relationship for accurate installation? Can I make the marks on the torque converter and driveplate as they are now (pre-removal of old engine) and then transcribe the mark from the old to new driveplate in the corresponding position? This is what causes me the most anxiety on install. And I know it's more involved than simply lowering the engine in, securing the mounts and calling it a day Thanks for your feedback!.
@@TurboJohnRacing Thank you for this. Your comment nudged me to to find better clarification on a few terms. You can probable help. So, the torque converter and the driveplate are both a part of the transaxle and the driveplate is used to connect the transaxle (actually the torque converter, but transaxle generally speaking) to the crankshaft flywheel which is on the engine side. So, what I think I'm really asking but have stated it incorrectly due to lack of experience/training is: How do I ensure that the driveplate is correctly aligned with the crankshaft flywheel when I lower the new engine down on to the mounts? **I believe this is more accurately stated** In your video, you show demonstration of using feeler gauges on the transaxle side but I won't be going into there, those spacing should remain appropriately spaced - in my case, it's a matter if ensuring the driveplate (on the transaxke) aligns properly with the crankshaft flywheel (engine side). Does this seem remotely close to being correct and not too mentally insane?
My torque converter was from the factory 94 Sierra. Looked like it had 1/8 spacer welded to the converter. Replaced the front pump seal. Still has a leak but shifting smooth no squealing or odd noises. Wondering if my converter had a hairline crack or the shaft was pitted?
Very good video John, i actually always wondered about this,I'm still a little confused on using the mid plate,when using a mid plate do you use a special converter?does the plate move the trans rearward the thickness of the plate,changing drive shaft length, or is the drive shaft just pushing up in tail shaft alittle more...or do you let engine come forward,?sorry for the loaded question
Adding the meat plate requires the torque converter to be a little taller. Or you can use washers or shims between the converter and flex plate, as long as the clearance is correct. But you have to be careful that the snout of the converter does not pull out of the crankshaft too far. Usually the driveshaft does not have to be shortened unless it was borderline too long to begin with. Most mid plates are .093-.125 thick.
If the converter did not change, then yes. You should need spacers between the converter and the flex plate, the same vs thickness as the midplate. But be careful, the pilot of the converter doesn’t pull all the way out of the crank.
do you ever measure the depth of the snout/adapter into the crank register? what clearance should be there to prevent the flex of the plate from bottoming out the snout/adapter into the crank?
So if I replaced the torque converter on my Dodge Ram, would it be a good idea to check that clearance before removing the transmission to see what it is before? If I slide the torque converter now just to see, could it cause a problem before I am ready to remove?
I have a 318 And I got a spare engine and disassembled it to see that the thrust bearing was wearing into the crank. ... I don't know what this dude talks about saying the bearing is gonna come out of the crank...It would have to wear down 1st and if it was that tight he wouldn't be able to put it together Without noticing. ... I think hes working on a Chevy those are kind of different And a little more like toys. Chevrolet's are fragile because they have independently adjusted rocker arms And also the time in cover issue with the oil Pan lip crap. Dodgers really do run for a long time good and won't break down like Chevy's, I don't think what hes talking about the placement of the placement of the torque converter changing once you remove it and just put it back in the same that it's gonna be different.. That's what Chevy people have to do I guess. Too bad K mart's closed you used to be able to buy all kinds of small block Chevy parts in K mart. Next to the toy section.
Pull the converter all the way out of the transmission to make sure the converter pads touch the flywheel, then push the converter back into the transmission all the way. Now, you have to measure the distance between the converter pads and the flex plate. If the distance is .125 to .187, then no spacer is required.
I need help with this i have a sbf with a powerglide and the convertor doesnt touch the flex plate is that ok can i put spacers in between i have movement frm front to back the convertor moves about 250 thousands but still about 1/4 away from flex plate pushed all the way toward engine im so confused thx for your time
The torque converter is bottoming out in the spacer. That’s bad. If you are action o car, I would pull it and change the snout on the converter or my machine it down .075-.100.
I am obsoleteing so much of this.. Stay tuned..... Already have Sonnax on board for parts manufacture. Already have an outlet set up where you'll be able to purchase from.
Bought new converter on a total new setup to me. There is no play , had to shim converter off of flexplate because of balloon plate . Question is how do I get more play? Shim trans back? The stock separator plate is between them now.
@@TurboJohnRacing thankyou. If I didnt have to space the dumb converter I'd be good. Now I have snapped teeth in the front drum where engagement to sun shell. C4 Ford probs! Thanks again I'll look it up.
Yo John is it okay to shim the bellhousing to block with washers like 2-3 of em. all I need is 1/2” so my stall will stop locking up to flexplate causing it not to spin freely. Tci has failed 4 times build a stall fix this issue.
Make sure the converter is pushed all the way back in the trans. If it is, and it still hits. Either the flex plate is wrong, or the converter was built for a mid plate. I would not just use spacers. Buy a mid plate, cut it down on the outside so it’s just a spacer plate. I have done that!
You should be ok. .375 gap you have now. I would put .200 ish of washers stacked between the flex plate and the converter pads. Make sure the converter snout engages some with the crank.
Hold up… for gap was 3/16 before bolting and at set torque the pads just touch the plate… I thought I needed space after torque, what the hell… damn lol
My Flex plate has broken 3 times in less than six months, spoiling the torque converter and the pump. My car is Toyota Prado 120 series automatic transmission year of manufacture 2005... What should I do to eradicate this problem... someone help me out
I bet your missing a dowel alignment pin , if theres any slop when the engine twists it puts force on the flexplate causing it to break and bend out of balance and will eventually break from out of balance, I see it alot
Also check your torque converter and pump for wear again out of balance cracks flexplates, see people try to get trans in with converter still bolted or on s trans swap the dowel pin ends up in the old trans ,easy to check if its missing
![Torque Converter Install and Setback Clearance - THE SKID FACTORY - [Quick Tech]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gYdsbVCDgUs/mqdefault.jpg)
Been racing for 32 years, all manuals....just built my first auto, thank you for this. That really helped.
That was a great explanation. That finally gave me a clear method to do it right and it just makes sense with the other stuff I’ve seen about the damage it can do if not done right
Best informative, simple and understandable explanation I could find. Thanks TJ
Yes sir!
an 1/8 drillbit should slide in, but a 3/16 bit should be too wide to slide in the gap.
Great, easy idea! Thanks
Nice! Didnt think about that!
Thank you so much for this one. I have a 700R4 and a new torque converter and ever sence than I have had bebre in my oil. So I pulled the motor to find the Thrust barring had some shiny spots. So fingers crossed thats the issue.
Thanks for the video I’m about to install a new circle d converter and I wanted to make sure I was right
Nice video. Can you talk more on the snout on the converter into the crank. please. How much of the converter snout should be in the crank? like .100 or .125 and it still needs room to move back and forth. You did touch on it a bit. Thank you.
It cannot bottom out in the crank before the pads on the converter touch the flexplate.
I’m confused, did you say the crank has 100 thousandths play? Doesn’t that mean the thrust bearing is totally shot? Each transmission has different specs and thank you for pointing out the importance of these specs!
thanks for sharing your wisdom with us! appreciate it very much. RJ
So a friend and I are about to remove his mom's xmsn a 4th time.
-1st round: lots of smoke, lost power, trail of fluid. We replaced the seal at the front. They drove around 30 minutes, started leaking badly when they came back and idled in park. That was the original converter.
-2nd round: realized we needed the 9.8" bolt pattern instead of the 9.75"
-3rd round: put in 9.8" converter, filled fluid and idled for 15 min. A trail of fluid was left on the driveway backing out. A giant puddle was left on the street when stopped and shifting to drive, he pulled forward and left a moderate trail, and then another puddle was left when I was yelling at him to get back in driveway.
Here are my questions. Does the converter get pressed toward the flex plate when it's under load? If my gap was too large, would this explain no leak in park, dribbling when slowly backing out, but gushing in gear at a stop?
Installing spacers is a pain in the butt...LOL...I use a small extendable magnet to hold the spacer while starting the bolt with the other hand.
Try stacking washers 🤣
@@nsboost Why would I do that and not just get a spacer that is the thickness I need? If I absolutely had no choice, but to use multiple washers which I've never done I would probably super glue them together.
Thak you for this information. I note that (according to the Haynes manual) a mark should be made on both the torque converter and driveplate showing their relationship for reinstallation. However, I'm going to be installing a remanufactured engine into my 2008 mazda 3i 2 0L. Do you have any words of wisdom on how to properly determine this relationship for accurate installation? Can I make the marks on the torque converter and driveplate as they are now (pre-removal of old engine) and then transcribe the mark from the old to new driveplate in the corresponding position?
This is what causes me the most anxiety on install. And I know it's more involved than simply lowering the engine in, securing the mounts and calling it a day
Thanks for your feedback!.
From what I have seen, most torque converters are balanced neutral. But yours could be different. I don’t know, good luck!
@@TurboJohnRacing Thank you for this. Your comment nudged me to to find better clarification on a few terms. You can probable help. So, the torque converter and the driveplate are both a part of the transaxle and the driveplate is used to connect the transaxle (actually the torque converter, but transaxle generally speaking) to the crankshaft flywheel which is on the engine side. So, what I think I'm really asking but have stated it incorrectly due to lack of experience/training is:
How do I ensure that the driveplate is correctly aligned with the crankshaft flywheel when I lower the new engine down on to the mounts? **I believe this is more accurately stated**
In your video, you show demonstration of using feeler gauges on the transaxle side but I won't be going into there, those spacing should remain appropriately spaced - in my case, it's a matter if ensuring the driveplate (on the transaxke) aligns properly with the crankshaft flywheel (engine side).
Does this seem remotely close to being correct and not too mentally insane?
My torque converter was from the factory 94 Sierra. Looked like it had 1/8 spacer welded to the converter. Replaced the front pump seal. Still has a leak but shifting smooth no squealing or odd noises. Wondering if my converter had a hairline crack or the shaft was pitted?
What do you do if the space it too little? You said the space ranges between 125 and 180 thousandths. How do you get MORE space?
What about if your flex plate has a raised area where the bolt goes through?.. basically it's not dead flat?.
Very good video John, i actually always wondered about this,I'm still a little confused on using the mid plate,when using a mid plate do you use a special converter?does the plate move the trans rearward the thickness of the plate,changing drive shaft length, or is the drive shaft just pushing up in tail shaft alittle more...or do you let engine come forward,?sorry for the loaded question
Adding the meat plate requires the torque converter to be a little taller. Or you can use washers or shims between the converter and flex plate, as long as the clearance is correct. But you have to be careful that the snout of the converter does not pull out of the crankshaft too far. Usually the driveshaft does not have to be shortened unless it was borderline too long to begin with. Most mid plates are .093-.125 thick.
JOHN, when I add the mid plate for the motor in between Bell housing and motor, Am I adding spacers?
If the converter did not change, then yes. You should need spacers between the converter and the flex plate, the same vs thickness as the midplate. But be careful, the pilot of the converter doesn’t pull all the way out of the crank.
How do the flex plate to converter bolts not change everything you said
do you ever measure the depth of the snout/adapter into the crank register? what clearance should be there to prevent the flex of the plate from bottoming out the snout/adapter into the crank?
Yes, a lot people bottom out there. .150-.200 is what I like on that gap
When you measure is it with the crankshaft put all the way forward or all the way towards the rear of the runout?
@ 6:11....Cause the front pump in the transmission is not working properly.....So you can rely on the back pump?
So if I replaced the torque converter on my Dodge Ram, would it be a good idea to check that clearance before removing the transmission to see what it is before? If I slide the torque converter now just to see, could it cause a problem before I am ready to remove?
I have a 318 And I got a spare engine and disassembled it to see that the thrust bearing was wearing into the crank.
... I don't know what this dude talks about saying the bearing is gonna come out of the crank...It would have to wear down 1st and if it was that tight he wouldn't be able to put it together Without noticing.
... I think hes working on a Chevy those are kind of different And a little more like toys.
Chevrolet's are fragile because they have independently adjusted rocker arms And also the time in cover issue with the oil Pan lip crap.
Dodgers really do run for a long time good and won't break down like Chevy's, I don't think what hes talking about the placement of the placement of the torque converter changing once you remove it and just put it back in the same that it's gonna be different.. That's what Chevy people have to do I guess.
Too bad K mart's closed you used to be able to buy all kinds of small block Chevy parts in K mart. Next to the toy section.
Yea I had no spacers on the old flex plate saw this and added 3/16 spacer now a ticking sound appears
Pull the converter all the way out of the transmission to make sure the converter pads touch the flywheel, then push the converter back into the transmission all the way. Now, you have to measure the distance between the converter pads and the flex plate. If the distance is .125 to .187, then no spacer is required.
You just made my day new subscriber
Hold the dang camera still for Gods sake
So if I have a 1/4 mid plate I would shim 1/4 extra, in between torque converter and flex plate?
I need help with this i have a sbf with a powerglide and the convertor doesnt touch the flex plate is that ok can i put spacers in between i have movement frm front to back the convertor moves about 250 thousands but still about 1/4 away from flex plate pushed all the way toward engine im so confused thx for your time
The torque converter is bottoming out in the spacer. That’s bad. If you are action o car, I would pull it and change the snout on the converter or my machine it down .075-.100.
I am obsoleteing so much of this.. Stay tuned..... Already have Sonnax on board for parts manufacture. Already have an outlet set up where you'll be able to purchase from.
Thanks for the lesson.
There was NO spacers to begin within im confused
So if I’m in between 125-187 I just straight bolt it on the flex plate with no spacers????
Yes
What's the caliper called? So you measure the space in between with converter pushed in trans?
Use feeler gauges, then measure thickness
Bought new converter on a total new setup to me. There is no play , had to shim converter off of flexplate because of balloon plate . Question is how do I get more play? Shim trans back? The stock separator plate is between them now.
Yes, get another spacer plate or mid plate. They sell them from .060-.250 thick
@@TurboJohnRacing thankyou. If I didnt have to space the dumb converter I'd be good. Now I have snapped teeth in the front drum where engagement to sun shell. C4 Ford probs! Thanks again I'll look it up.
Just rebuilt a 2.0L mazda and was setting the ignition timing on the distributor then 4 tries later, bellhousin make brrr now im angwy
Precision Transmission dude says 1/16th - 1/8th spacing. The 1/16th is bare minimum and 1/8th is the max with sweet spot in the middle.
She’s, 1/16 isn’t much at all but I guess everyone has a preference. Most major converter companies say .125-.187
Thanks for tid bit of knowledge
perhaps a screw driver to point during ur vids .always enjoy you and ur contenet hope ur car is goin threw the traps soon
What if there was less than .100 away from the flex-plate while uncoupled? Remove and mill .050ish off of the mounting lugs on the converter?
That is too close for sure. You need to also check where the converter pilot slides into the crank. You can add a .060 thick mid plate style spacer.
Yo John is it okay to shim the bellhousing to block with washers like 2-3 of em. all I need is 1/2” so my stall will stop locking up to flexplate causing it not to spin freely. Tci has failed 4 times build a stall fix this issue.
Make sure the converter is pushed all the way back in the trans. If it is, and it still hits. Either the flex plate is wrong, or the converter was built for a mid plate. I would not just use spacers. Buy a mid plate, cut it down on the outside so it’s just a spacer plate. I have done that!
I have 3/8" gap on my car. Will that be too much spacer to get that sweet number, or will it be fine? I would be using sae grade 8 washers to space.
You should be ok. .375 gap you have now. I would put .200 ish of washers stacked between the flex plate and the converter pads. Make sure the converter snout engages some with the crank.
@@TurboJohnRacing thank you sir!
Great info. Thanks!
How do I know what stall is my torque converter is it mark some way
Hold up… for gap was 3/16 before bolting and at set torque the pads just touch the plate… I thought I needed space after torque, what the hell… damn lol
Mines got a half inch gap when pushed all the way to the pump
AMAZING!!! thanks!!!
Great video!
Thanks
so much for short and to the point,
I use a drill bit or allen wrench to measure torque converter clearance.
Great tip!
Skip to 6:00 👍
Did you cut the bell housing?
No it is the powerglide to small block Ford a bell housing. JW makes it.
Great info
Flex plate or flywheel ???
Flexplate = auto
Flywheel = manual
My Flex plate has broken 3 times in less than six months, spoiling the torque converter and the pump. My car is Toyota Prado 120 series automatic transmission year of manufacture 2005... What should I do to eradicate this problem... someone help me out
We usually break them from too much power. In a normal car, I don’t know what would cause it.
I bet your missing a dowel alignment pin , if theres any slop when the engine twists it puts force on the flexplate causing it to break and bend out of balance and will eventually break from out of balance, I see it alot
Also check your torque converter and pump for wear again out of balance cracks flexplates, see people try to get trans in with converter still bolted or on s trans swap the dowel pin ends up in the old trans ,easy to check if its missing
Does this apply to a for c4 transmission??? Anybody
Late model transmissions are a bitch to do this on. Eye ball it most the time lol. But not as big of a deal unless your have a braked turbo car
Wow. Your good at maths. Lol.
lol, I struggle even with simple numbers
You see the whole convertor moving forward,,,, from oil pressure
What flex plate are you running?
Miziere is the new one. True billet, nice piece!
Great info 👍
i just stack 2 washers and call it at day ,if it pushes too far my starter will catch it haha
I’ve had no luck with that method, lol
Your measurements were confusing. I’m used to hearing 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch.
For some reason thousandths has always stuck with me
I never
I’m lost
Sorry, I tried to explain it best I could. What is the confusing part?
Wow youtube unsubscribed me from your channel smh
That sucks!
Great video ! Thanks !