This may be a very stupid question, but I’m trying install cylinder head temp sender and gauge and I’m worried that I’ll have to drop the engine. From this video, it looks like I’ll be able to access the cylinder head without doing that just underneath the bus. Any advice? Cheers
Henrywildeberry Hallelujah! 🙌🏼 thank you. It really doesn’t look that difficult to drop it, but would prefer if I didn’t have to yet. One day, I’m sure I will haha
Dale Boettcher I may have hastily responded. It’s been awhile since I installed mine. Thinking back there may be some clearance issues at the cooling fins and some wire routing that might only be possible with the cooling tins out of the way. It might be easier with the engine out? Do a search on the Samba there should be a tutorial there. Best!
I am in the process of having Adrian down at Headflow put together a long block based on your motor. My 82 Westy is my daily driver so I need as little down as possible. What kind of gas mileage are you getting? I am getting 15 to 16 mpg on trips. Any other info would be great. With the fuel mixture gauge what did you tune to?
Nice! Adrian does great work. I'm getting around 17 to 19 mpg depending on driving conditions. Headwinds obviously hurt efficiency because of the large surface area of the van. Hilly driving also has an effect on economy. With the LM-2, I set the AFR between 13.5 to 14 at idle. Under driving conditions the computer sets the AFR to around 14.4 to 14.7. Another important feature to consider is the exhaust system. The stock CA exhaust is horribly restrictive. Consider an aftermarket exhaust system. It's worth it. If you need heat, you should use the federal heat exchangers, they seem to have better flow and more aftermarket options are available in that arrangement. Make sure to get a cylinder head temp gauge and become familiar with the normal operating temps. On long climbs I try and keep the temps below 400, but I have pushed it above that. It's good to have a general understanding of temps under normal driving conditions. Any thing off means AFR are out, and something with the FI needs attention. Set the timing to 28 degrees BTDC at 3500 RPMS. While you're setting the timing make sure you have a full range of advance. My distributor wasn't advancing the full factory spec, and on disassembly I discovered the mech advance plate was being restricted by a improperly sized screw! Best of luck!
Nice build dude. You obviously did your research. Are you running stock connecting rods? What about jugs and pistons? Is the cat still on that thing for CA smog testing? What year is that, an '80? Sounds good. I want to do something similar when my engine gets tired. It only has 64k on it now, so it will be a while, but I expect I will be building something very similar. Basically a Raby camper special without buying the kit. Just a cam, reworked AMC heads, and probably fancy nikkies jugs and pistons. And fresh bearings, obviously. Oh, and solid lifters to go with the new cam. Did you have to use 1.7 rockers to get the Porche style swivel foot valve tappets to work? I assumed the taps were too big in the 2 liter rockers to use those based on my little bit of research I've been able to do, but I am just starting to investigate options for squeezing more hp out of the type 4. Anyway, thanks for the info, the motor sounds great. If my motor wasn't so fresh, I'd probably already be pulling it, just to Rabyfy it to get more hp and torque, but as it stands, I just intend to start stockpiling parts for the inevitable. Would be nice to get a jump on some of this stuff, and have it ready when build time comes. Thanks for the info man. That thing sounds like a real screamer.
bonzey1171 thanks Bonzey! This engine was built using the original crank and connecting rods, both were balanced with the new pistons. I used the 1.7 rockers and clearanced them by hand with a 4” angle grinder. I went slow and only removed a little at a time. Once I got them where I could still have room to adjust the valves, I radiused all the edges and corners. The cam works with the stock FI but I can see why a custom FI would help give the engine a little more top end. It has a long torque curve as Raby talks about with his engines. It also runs about 30-50 degrees cooler than the stock engine at the same speed. It’s not a Subaru, but it works great, and sounds nice. I’m still working on a final exhaust system using federal HE, with an aftermarket Cat. That’s still in the works...best of luck to you on your rebuild.
Hi Maauu mau, I set the compression ratio to about 8.5 to 1 with a web73 cam based on recommendations I found on shoptalk forums. Heads are built by Adrian at Headflow Masters. So far I'm quite pleased with the extra power and reliability. Engine cylinder temps run about 350-degree F at 65 mph! It starts and idles very well too. Get a good exhaust system.
Henrywildeberry I have an engine that marks on each cylinder between 70 to 80 psi with New pistons and new heads. I wanted to know if you measured the compression in each cylinder once it is working
Oh, I see. I haven't done a compression test in quite a while on this engine. However, 70 to 80 psi sounds too low. Has the engine run yet with the new pistons and heads?
Make sure the valves are adjusted properly, and that you have the timing set correctly. If you have fuel injection make sure you have the correct fuel pressure. The rings will need time to bed in (break in).
Awesome! I'm glad you found this helpful. The AC engine only has problematic heads. Once that is resolved with good rebuilt heads from Headflow Masters or Len Hoffman, and a properly sized cam, it's a great engine. Do some research on Jake Raby's website and forums. The cam is a critical part of a good AC engine.
@@danielnoguera9604 Hi Daniel, I haven't been keeping up on the Type 4 developments, but as I recall LN Engineering was a partner business that machined parts for Jake Raby? I could be wrong. This build was modeled after the camper special (mostly stock with a different cam and reworked heads). I used a web73 cam, and had the heads built by Adrian at Headflow Masters. All the parts were sourced through Air Cooled.net The case was cleaned and the oil galleys threaded by European Motor Works.
Hi Henry, This is Brent again. My longblock from Adrian at Headflow Masters shows up on Monday 😎 I was wondering who you got your AFM from and if you replaced your injectors where did you get those from? Thanks, Brent
Hi Brent, Exciting! Yes, I replaced the AFM. It's been awhile since I replaced it, but I think I recall ordering it online from Bus Depot www.busdepot.com/410030 I have the original fuel injectors. I replaced the seals and checked to make sure they were operating properly by pulling each one, pressuring the system, and spraying into a plastic cup. I did replace the full pressure regulator and made sure the cold start valve was working and not leaking. There's a couple of things you can do to make sure things are operating well. First, check into an LM-2 tester, this is a great tool for tuning the engine. Second, get a cylinder head temp sensor (these are cheap at Aircraft Spruce www.aircraftspruce.com). With these two tools, you'll know if the engine is running too lean, and thus too hot. Be sure to set the timing correctly too:) Keep me posted.
Hi Brent, How's the engine coming along? I see you posted a comment on push rod tube seals, but it seems to be missing? Anyhow, these seals are easy to nick when installing them. The problem is they are a rubber o-rings and when sliding them into the push rod tube ports the o-rings can catch on a sharp metal edge of the engine case or the heads. I use lots of oil on the seals and ports, and turn them gently as I push them in. I never push too hard, because inevitably they will leak. There are few different colors of seals out there, but I haven't noticed any difference in terms of sealing quality. The main thing is to be careful, align them properly, and never rush it. It always pays to slow down and do things right the first time. Good luck!
great video
This may be a very stupid question, but I’m trying install cylinder head temp sender and gauge and I’m worried that I’ll have to drop the engine. From this video, it looks like I’ll be able to access the cylinder head without doing that just underneath the bus. Any advice? Cheers
Dale Boettcher a cylinder head temp sending unit typically uses a thermocouple over the 3# spark plug. There is no need to drop the engine.
Henrywildeberry Hallelujah! 🙌🏼 thank you. It really doesn’t look that difficult to drop it, but would prefer if I didn’t have to yet. One day, I’m sure I will haha
Dale Boettcher I may have hastily responded. It’s been awhile since I installed mine. Thinking back there may be some clearance issues at the cooling fins and some wire routing that might only be possible with the cooling tins out of the way. It might be easier with the engine out? Do a search on the Samba there should be a tutorial there. Best!
Henrywildeberry I guess I’ll find out tomorrow. Hopefully not because I’ve never done that before and would prefer not to before I big trip
I am in the process of having Adrian down at Headflow put together a long block based on your motor. My 82 Westy is my daily driver so I need as little down as possible. What kind of gas mileage are you getting? I am getting 15 to 16 mpg on trips. Any other info would be great. With the fuel mixture gauge what did you tune to?
Nice! Adrian does great work. I'm getting around 17 to 19 mpg depending on driving conditions. Headwinds obviously hurt efficiency because of the large surface area of the van. Hilly driving also has an effect on economy. With the LM-2, I set the AFR between 13.5 to 14 at idle. Under driving conditions the computer sets the AFR to around 14.4 to 14.7. Another important feature to consider is the exhaust system. The stock CA exhaust is horribly restrictive. Consider an aftermarket exhaust system. It's worth it. If you need heat, you should use the federal heat exchangers, they seem to have better flow and more aftermarket options are available in that arrangement. Make sure to get a cylinder head temp gauge and become familiar with the normal operating temps. On long climbs I try and keep the temps below 400, but I have pushed it above that. It's good to have a general understanding of temps under normal driving conditions. Any thing off means AFR are out, and something with the FI needs attention. Set the timing to 28 degrees BTDC at 3500 RPMS. While you're setting the timing make sure you have a full range of advance. My distributor wasn't advancing the full factory spec, and on disassembly I discovered the mech advance plate was being restricted by a improperly sized screw! Best of luck!
Nice build dude. You obviously did your research. Are you running stock connecting rods? What about jugs and pistons? Is the cat still on that thing for CA smog testing? What year is that, an '80?
Sounds good. I want to do something similar when my engine gets tired. It only has 64k on it now, so it will be a while, but I expect I will be building something very similar. Basically a Raby camper special without buying the kit. Just a cam, reworked AMC heads, and probably fancy nikkies jugs and pistons. And fresh bearings, obviously. Oh, and solid lifters to go with the new cam.
Did you have to use 1.7 rockers to get the Porche style swivel foot valve tappets to work? I assumed the taps were too big in the 2 liter rockers to use those based on my little bit of research I've been able to do, but I am just starting to investigate options for squeezing more hp out of the type 4.
Anyway, thanks for the info, the motor sounds great. If my motor wasn't so fresh, I'd probably already be pulling it, just to Rabyfy it to get more hp and torque, but as it stands, I just intend to start stockpiling parts for the inevitable. Would be nice to get a jump on some of this stuff, and have it ready when build time comes. Thanks for the info man. That thing sounds like a real screamer.
bonzey1171 thanks Bonzey! This engine was built using the original crank and connecting rods, both were balanced with the new pistons. I used the 1.7 rockers and clearanced them by hand with a 4” angle grinder. I went slow and only removed a little at a time. Once I got them where I could still have room to adjust the valves, I radiused all the edges and corners. The cam works with the stock FI but I can see why a custom FI would help give the engine a little more top end. It has a long torque curve as Raby talks about with his engines. It also runs about 30-50 degrees cooler than the stock engine at the same speed. It’s not a Subaru, but it works great, and sounds nice. I’m still working on a final exhaust system using federal HE, with an aftermarket Cat. That’s still in the works...best of luck to you on your rebuild.
What is the compression of you engine?
Hi Maauu mau, I set the compression ratio to about 8.5 to 1 with a web73 cam based on recommendations I found on shoptalk forums. Heads are built by Adrian at Headflow Masters. So far I'm quite pleased with the extra power and reliability. Engine cylinder temps run about 350-degree F at 65 mph! It starts and idles very well too. Get a good exhaust system.
Henrywildeberry I have an engine that marks on each cylinder between 70 to 80 psi with New pistons and new heads. I wanted to know if you measured the compression in each cylinder once it is working
Oh, I see. I haven't done a compression test in quite a while on this engine. However, 70 to 80 psi sounds too low. Has the engine run yet with the new pistons and heads?
Henrywildeberry if i have already turned it on, it works and Westfalia walks but it lacks torque. If you measure the compression please let me know
Make sure the valves are adjusted properly, and that you have the timing set correctly. If you have fuel injection make sure you have the correct fuel pressure. The rings will need time to bed in (break in).
Very cool. I might attempt to do one next summer. Everyone gives the air-cooled motors so much shit.
Awesome! I'm glad you found this helpful. The AC engine only has problematic heads. Once that is resolved with good rebuilt heads from Headflow Masters or Len Hoffman, and a properly sized cam, it's a great engine. Do some research on Jake Raby's website and forums. The cam is a critical part of a good AC engine.
@@Henrywildeberry Jake Raby’s is LN engineering now, right? In that case, did you use the camper special kit?
@@danielnoguera9604 Hi Daniel, I haven't been keeping up on the Type 4 developments, but as I recall LN Engineering was a partner business that machined parts for Jake Raby? I could be wrong. This build was modeled after the camper special (mostly stock with a different cam and reworked heads). I used a web73 cam, and had the heads built by Adrian at Headflow Masters. All the parts were sourced through Air Cooled.net The case was cleaned and the oil galleys threaded by European Motor Works.
Hi Henry,
This is Brent again. My longblock from Adrian at Headflow Masters shows up on Monday 😎 I was wondering who you got your AFM from and if you replaced your injectors where did you get those from?
Thanks,
Brent
Hi Brent, Exciting! Yes, I replaced the AFM. It's been awhile since I replaced it, but I think I recall ordering it online from Bus Depot www.busdepot.com/410030 I have the original fuel injectors. I replaced the seals and checked to make sure they were operating properly by pulling each one, pressuring the system, and spraying into a plastic cup. I did replace the full pressure regulator and made sure the cold start valve was working and not leaking. There's a couple of things you can do to make sure things are operating well. First, check into an LM-2 tester, this is a great tool for tuning the engine. Second, get a cylinder head temp sensor (these are cheap at Aircraft Spruce www.aircraftspruce.com). With these two tools, you'll know if the engine is running too lean, and thus too hot. Be sure to set the timing correctly too:) Keep me posted.
Hi Brent,
How's the engine coming along? I see you posted a comment on push rod tube seals, but it seems to be missing? Anyhow, these seals are easy to nick when installing them. The problem is they are a rubber o-rings and when sliding them into the push rod tube ports the o-rings can catch on a sharp metal edge of the engine case or the heads. I use lots of oil on the seals and ports, and turn them gently as I push them in. I never push too hard, because inevitably they will leak. There are few different colors of seals out there, but I haven't noticed any difference in terms of sealing quality. The main thing is to be careful, align them properly, and never rush it. It always pays to slow down and do things right the first time. Good luck!