Removing oil can effect
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Removing dents with hammer and dolly can cause the oil can effect. Means the material got streched and there's now too much. With heating up to red hot, hammering gently flat and quenching you can shrink it again.
Used this technique on my fuel tank. It was fire not gonna lie
Good one!
I see what you did there
"It would seem we've all learned a valuable lesson here today"
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Made me laugh
Tried this technique today when repairing a Boeing 737MAX left wing fuel tank. The job went smoothly, I think it will fly great. Thanks for the tutorial 🙏
What plane? I'll make sure to avoid it.
@@sandordugalin8951you should avoid every boeing 737 MAX, that's the joke.
its because theyve found a growing number of quality control issues at their factories and planes have started blowing apart mid air
Flight must have been a blast !
You should always avoid boeings they have the highest rate of incidents and than any other planes@@sandordugalin8951
@@stephenallen4635 I mean, they figured out the bolts on one door weren’t fastened correctly on a number of planes. Has there been another issue? Just curious.
Ah yes, the century old trick of hitting the object until it’s the way you want. Never fails.
@@angelvaldez1775😂
@@angelvaldez1775damn😂
Works on my girlfriend 😂
@@angelvaldez1775😂😂😂 same lol
@@angelvaldez1775As an 80's baby, I can relate
This is a Panel Beaters method of shrinking steel, however don't use a carburizing flame as it will introduce carbon to the metal always use a normal flame. Also practice the skills of actualy using a hammer and dolly otherwise you will find that instead of shrinking the metal you are stretching it and chasing it all over the panel. The art of shrinking steel is usually learned after many hours of learning how to shape and work steel cold.
Yours sincerely
Old School Panel Beater
What is the technical term for panel beater? Sheet metal Fabricator?
@@Astrnauted A panel beater is a panel beater primarily repairs motor vehicles but has other skills of a sheet metal worker and coach builder. A genuine panel beater will make you any car panel starting from a flat sheet of steel or aluminium
That is a classy comment right there, my man.
Yea and once you start hammering with the plenishing hammer, start on thr outside and work ur way to the middle.
@@Astrnautedauto body specialist
Instructions unclear, my car looks like the moon now
😂😂
Moon cars are in vogue tho
You are the best🤣
Now that’s funny.
That would actually be cool, done in stainless and left as is... would actually look like craters.
Used this technique on my old fuel tank. It worked a treat. My facial reconstruction is next week. Wish me luck. 👍
Been 8 days, did it go well?
@Pokeman9687 great success! I can blink now and no longer eat through a straw. 🙌
@user-re9nt3bu6g that's amazing! Glad to hear you are doing better!
Tried this on my 1999 chevy cavalier today. Forgot to empty the fuel tank but it flies great!
Not removing fuel can affect
I laughed. Thank you! 😂😄
Hi there, metal expert and master welder of 29 years here, you should do this to everything you own even if it's not metal or producing this noise thank you
😊0ⁿ⁰ĺpópó
what does it do mostly?
@@stanleybochenek1862 relaxation of setting fires and hitting stuff with a hammer
@@anotheralpharius2056 okay
And gets rid of unwanted idiots thinking they know better... wait what?
1. A little too much heat. You want your heat affected zone to be as small and controlled as possible, it’s better to go until the color BARELY starts to change (or not at all.) Then if you need more shrinkage do it again.
2. Quenching or blasting air will cause a more abrupt change in temperature, therefore shrinking it even more, again making it less controllable.
3. Hammer on dolly stretches the metal back out, so ideally you’d only shrink it just enough so that you can strike off dolly to straighten it out. The fact that he was hitting on dolly so hard shows he over-shrunk it.
Overall good work. It got the job done, and with a skim coat of body filler it’ll be perfectly fine.
This was thought too. Overheated the metal.
Why wouldnt it be fine without a skim coat of body filler?
I know nothing about metal lol 🤷♂️
Should you let it cool more naturally when you beat it? With ambient static air, or a gentle breeze?
I don’t know anything about whatever this video is, but I do know a thing or two about cameras, so just to play devil’s advocate real quick, the way your eye perceive brightness is different than how a camera does. Specifically a camera has a much smaller dynamic range than the human eye, so if something is blown out white for a camera, it’s quite possible that it wouldn’t be so bright to a human. It all depends on the camera’s dynamic range, and what the brightness of the correctly exposed parts of the image is.
He still may have been too hot I’m not saying you are wrong, just pointing out it’d be very difficult to tell from a video.
@@SuperUvixcause its still low!
Makes me think of my old man when he would do hail repair - though this is not as good. He would do a whole car, no mud, and be perfect. I would hold his torch and watch him work- it was mesmerizing all those little spirals, the sound of the quench from his rag. Of course this was before the paintless repair days. Sure do miss him.
When was this? Because cars today the metal is too thin really to try and heat shrink panels with a torch. It’s actually a guy at my job that did this to a door and it fucked him over good. Went from a decent 4-6 hour dent to about 12 hours and 5 or more coats of mud
There's alot to be said and even more to be learned from those old school dudes
@@ajtoofly7315watch the video again, they're putting in dents to stiffen it not shrinking it. Personally, I would just stick flashing tape on it but maybe that's too quick & easy.
@@ajtoofly7315you don't send a guy to an English wheel who doesn't know how to shape metal with an English wheel. You don't hand a guy a torch, and tell him to shape metal with a torch if he doesn't know how. That said it's an art. Shaping with a torch or an English wheel or a bowl stump anvil. Some guys can do what others definitely can't.
From my experience, making smaller spots with double in quantity will do a better job.
I saw one guy ruin a side of an Impala like this he was replacing side sheeting to. Too big torch and too big spots. Tiny spots are enough to do big changes.
@@tuoppi42hell ya, a little bit goes a long ways with sheet metal and heat
I can't believe there's actually serious comments saying don't try this at home. Only professional metal workers should attempt this. Blah blah blah. People should try doing as many things possible every chance they get. It's the only way anyone can learn, and if they mess up, then they know what not to do next time meaning they are learning. Don't ever listen to people who try to talk you down. Stay dirty and never quit learning.
Very good comment.
Love this. Keep up the good work
I assume you do all your own healthcare?
Education is a much better approach than blindly following a silent video. People do not waste your time trying things you do not understand. Learn….understand…..then do.
Im a airplane engineer and i use this trick constantly on the planes that come through the shop
I'm way out of my depths when it comes to shrinking/ stretching metal. Thankyou to those in the know who added comments. You guys are masters.
This issue with this meathod of heating and quenching metal to shrink the molecules is that the process itself makes the metal harder but also more brittle and prone to cracking, especially in the areas where the temperatures were the hottest.
That is what i was thinking..
The metal gets stronger but it can break more easily, right?
@@franalaniz4312yes but it’s not like u can never do this, it certainly will fix the issue u have for most personal projects. But if u try doing this on a plane or something we have an issue 😭
The molecules aren't shrinking.
@@enriqueouro9 the grains are
@@zbereznietti2695 The material is not losing volume, which is what I think the commenter meant.
"he said, 'oil can'!"
"oil can what?"
Oil can fix dis, no ploblems.
Imagine a big rectangular oil/chemical can that you can flex the sides of like this.
@@danielgoodman3578 he knows, its play on words. It took me a second to realize what he meant, too. Like 'you can tune a car, but you can't tuna fish'.
@@ctdieselnut thank you
Can do....
Here's what he's doing: He's slightly smelting the metal to hammer it down to create a small indent. This means the material is pushed downwards, and on the edges, the material is pulled into towards that "crater". By hammering it flat you even it out again, but the stress remains, as the material is still pulled towards the indent, the indent is just hammered flat but the internal crystaline structure of the metal is all over the place.
This causes a LOT of stress in the material, and stiffens it. So you are trading a stiffer, less flexible metal structure for the fact that it is now under constant stress in those parts. And any movement, even small deformation or vibrations or tensile actions, cause microscopic stress deformations that eventually turn into ruptures.
You create a less wobbly structure,which has lost most of its flexibility, not very good.
A better way would have been to weld a reinforcement on it, or use a metal roller tool to roll grooves into the material, preferably in a "X" shape, which is much more gentle on the material than this heat + physical deformation.
If you ever see a metal sheet with an "X" or other shape indented into it, the reason is the same - to reduce the flexing, without compromising the crystaline structure.
But heat + hitting it is a very harsh and hard change, avoid doing this.
This is the metal equivalent of those chairs in school with one leg shorter than the others so you can rock it back and forth in place.
Those were always my favorite 😂
@@jazzfeline5970what is wrong with you
We called them rocking chairs
Gotta love that there's actually experienced people in this chat, not randoms saying random stuff
Вся заводская оцинковка ушла из чата
Она ушла из чата ещё на стадии абразивной обработки. Если там вообще была оцинковка- не на всех машинах она есть.
Ржавчина вошла в чат
@@bezrukov_sergeyЦинкарь или преобразователь ржавчины с ортофосфорной кислотой спешат на помощь.
Да ладно, походит и не один год еще
Я так делал, только молотком не стучал - всё получалось
I wish my Dad were still alive to add to this conversation. He often spoke about what he experienced during WW2 when he was a rear gunner on a B17 and repairs made on airplanes when they returned from raids over Germany. He talked about guys who could take a sheet of flat steel, and with ball peen or other hammer and dolly, form the metal into any complex shape needed to repair the plane and they did this within real time, hours, not days, no heavy machines. This was all done just to get the birds back in the air. That's my memory of what he said. If there is anyone else out there that can verify that's what happened, kudos to you.
It's better to make much smaller spots hot and then quench them without hammering. And do much more of them. And you don't need to make them red hot. Or make a huge dent with a hammer.
Someone who understands how to shrink metal folks.
I watched a video on this and I did see them gently tap with a hammer though. I believe it was to so it was “froze” flat instead of bubbling out
@@kilokilo89 It is acceptable to GENTLY tap high spots into low spots. In this application heat shrinking it correctly will fix the problem and hammering on it generally isn't necessary.
@@NavyVet4955 Well, I could be wrong, but it always works for me when straightening out sheetmetal, or removing the 'oil can' effect. My repairs are generally invisible after a coat of primer.
這個方法是淬火（鐵在加熱到一定溫度後用水降低溫度使鐵的元素結構改變）（簡單一句能變硬）這方法如果有外力碰撞容易脆裂（不太適合使用在板金件上）
In low carbon mild steel?
I can't read what I'm assuming is japanese but why does it look like it's in bold and capital like it's yelling
@@MultiMaker_StudiosBecause it's Japanese.
@@xochjLow carbon steel is not a no carbon steel. It will be less of a problem but will still create an altered crystal structure with more brittle elements like Martensite.
@@Videomorgue that's exactly my concern. Why would someone want to make this sheet more brittle?
I love this. Thanks for the explanation earlier, seeing it in action now makes so much sense.
Came here for all the armchair engineer comments and oh man I am not the slightest bit disappointed
Ah, a man of culture...
I like all the guys that have obviously studied the science behind this but have never worked on anything before. I know this because they have time to sit around and type all day.
@@AcidGambit419 I like even more the ones who THINK that have studied it.
Hint: all that talk about whether hitting the metal would or would not work-harden it, and no talk at all about whether that effect (were it to happen) would be enough to _matter._ As an actual armorer, I laugh a lot at that...
after years of listening to banging this man decided to give this piece of metal banging of it's life
U made me subscribed 😊❤
If mechanic knows the trick he does it well, but if car owner tells him any trick.... he finds a way to deny working that way 😢
I cannot wait for the next videos in this series
Yes I am dying to see how he would do it
Dito that
how to weld parts you just broke
@@tennicktenstyl shut up ten, don’t disturb a master at work
Used this technique on a couple of my hostages. They don't move anymore, thank you!
Quenching it makes that area brittle...good job.
if the metal is that thin then it wasnt a high stress area in the first place
It's a useful skill that I learned in 1972. Unfortunately I practiced it first on a School Bus, shrinking an accident damaged panel. Flaming tar (undercoat) scarred my left hand... but is mostly gone 50 years later. (Most side panels were NOT undercoated... so live and learn.) These days I'd apply strips of butyl sound deadening.
Its not only the hardening that makes this plate stop doing that. What is actually happening here is you are deforming the metal while its still hot, allowing its crystal structure to deform without damage. Then, when its as you want you cool it down rapidly, freezing the crystal in its place, so all the stresses that were in it previously get discipated. Not only that but you are also deforming the metal by heating it, witch introduces structural stability in the metal.
All that typing just to be wrong, dang
@@chuchonchuchon7640 are you sure, bud?
Hello from the USA! I wouldn't recommend coming here! Thats all, love your content!
This is how my father removed my love for him
I can't mention how mine did
He hammered him too@ParisFletcher
Warmed him up and gave him a hard hammering@ParisFletcher
The wet towel was after the fact
Im a metal worker of 20 years. Good job
I tried that once on the whole rear half of a wartime jeep floor pan and it took about 20 timed that process you see in the video, I was underneath holding a big block of metal up against the underside of the floor
He is essentially heat treating that area, he heat that part up to make the crystallite have enough energy to break the grain boundaries to reform, and then when he hits it, the crystallites gets compressed so there will be no excess elasticity which leads to the "gas tank effect", and then he quench that area with a wet towel to freeze or stop the process of the crystallites growing fusing together, why? Because bigger grains means less boundary force less compression and leads to weaker mechanical properties.
So long story short for normal non high pressure use, this fix is absolutely ok, by doing this he actually made that region stronger, but on the other hand, the connecting area between the original parts and the treated parts will become a "weak point" of sorts, in weak point, it doesn't mean it is soft or more elastic, it just means if it breaks, it will be from there
If anyone wants to "argue" then fetch me this, why does the gas tank effect vanished after this, the effect comes from the metal becoming bigger/wider or essentially stretched per say, he made the part tighter which in turns made it stronger
Не знал как усадить растянутый металл на плоскости. Делал подручными средствами найденными в гараже. Думал что делаю полную фигню хоть и получалось. А теперь мне попадается этот ролик где делают точно также 😂
Теперь ты знаешь, что не только ты делаешь фигню😄
@@user-rz4nh5rk2b эт точно! 😂
Very common generally. This technique is still in use while building passenger car trains to tension the walls for example.
The sound of the second hammering is oddly satisfying
Yes. When heating the steel and then cooling it fast you make it hard but brittle. Which is why it isnt flexible anymore. Instead its brittle and will break prematurely
Dump truck auto supply store welding assistant manager here, just so you know - you’re doing it wrong.
We are all smarter now
classic manager :D
a good manager,one can tell😀😀
Do you sell dump truck and dump truck accessories?
Yes! Thanks for showing this technique! I have a car that I'm restoring and the metal sheet is flexing exactly like this video is showing. I was wondering if I should cut it and then solder it to keep it from bending, but applying heat is a much easier and faster way to deal with this problem! Thanks!
this technique is used in car repair shops. but without hammering it.
as a machinist, we used to use heat to straighten shafts. High side uo, heat the high spot, cool with a compressed air/water mist. Monitor the whole operation with a dial indicator.
@@budlanctot3060 very interesting. does the heat weaken the shaft?
@@jonki87 nope.
@@metalmental454 i was wrong. but the hammer used for this has grooves in the head. it also can be done without hammering, i habe done it. i only used the electrical tool, the same one that welds hooks.
@jonki87 It can if you anneal the metal. The trick is to monitor the temperature, know how the material will react, and don't do it to metal that has already been heat treated.
For anyone wondering, what he’s doing is a roundabout way of creating ribs to help prevent flexing. This technique is seen in a variety of machines built with stamped steel, notably firearms.
You don’t need to heat it so much or beat it just heat and quench will work
Tried this on my boat. Thank You Coast Guard!
in Italia i carrozzieri usano questa tecnica da 100 anni ( punture di cannello ossidrico)
Haven’t seen many of these comments so here: Good work man!
Not a metal worker so really curious: Why heat and hammer those specific spots? Why cool fast like that with water? I'd like to understand how that worked.
When you heat up metal and cool it quickly, it makes the metal harder and tenser. Add on the hammering and you're both speeding up the process and directing it. Basically what he's doing is taking the "loose material" that's letting it bend and adding tension to it so it pulls itself taut.
Not a good idea for anything like the frame as it can structurally compromise the metal (makes it brittle, less bendy) but for panel work it's perfect.
As for why its loose? Could be a rough fit/weld at factory, someone could have dinged it, heat expansion and cooling for a couple decades, etc.
Fun fact: if you heat material and let it cool down by itself, it can actually make it softer depending on the metal in question.
Look up the phase diagram for steel. Heating and quenching quickly will increase the hardness and decrease ductility, making the metal harder, but more brittle. The steel's crystal lattice is affected, which changes the density of the material. In this case MM uses that to his advantage, making the heated/cooled spots contract in order to cure the "oil can" effect.
Slow heating + slow cooling can have the opposite effect, making the metal softer and more ductile, a process referred to as annealing.
@@thewolfin @PrometheusEpimetheus thank you both, that's exactly the explaination I was hoping for.
@@thewolfin my mans got the vocab, put it much more eloquently than I did lol
Still missing one detail. Low freq sound comes from large length. Putting hardened spots cuts length, and builds a high pass filter, blocking low freqs. The narrower spots reduces length and makes higher freqs ( if any ).
Sometimes you either dislike low tune freqs, and prefer higher freqs.
In other case, some low freq can be a resonance point with an other element, and be either a resonating element, or amplify an other noise. It can either harm to the structure, or a discomfort people around.
The hard point can also be seen as a resistive element, or, a pillar blocking propagation.
Most answers here are from metallurgy. But there are many things to say in the frequency domain, sound, signal treatment , wave propagation ( 12 sides of the same dice ).
Metallurgy was a mean. We don't have the purpose, but it's probably frequency related.
Yeah, stiffeners or stiffing ribs they are called. You can see the 3D shapes stamped on the edges, planes and around litening holes of load baring profiles of your car, washing machine, computer case - almost on all sheet metal stamped structures. On this particular part producers were after "cost effectiveness", so stiffeners were stamped to the bare minimum.
фрагментарно закалил метал, теперь он там треснет ) и под лкп изнутри заберется влага и будет ржаветь )))
ИДИОТ ЭТОТ МЕТАЛ ОЧЕНЬ МЯГКИЙ, ПОЧТИ НЕВОЗМОЖНА ЗАКАЛИТЬ
Это тебе не сталь напильника или подшипника
How to fix anything :
step 1 : get hammer
step 2 : BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG
step 3 : completely fixed congrats
Wouldn't this create a thin brittle spot?
The heated spot actually gets thicker. And no, it doesn't get brittle. This is mild steel, that's low carbon. It won't get affected by heat and quench, you can't heat treat mild steel. It actually gets softer, because it's now annealed.
No you're right it absolutely will and does create a brittle spot. This guy seems to not take advice from people who know more very well. The comment he left is absolutely filled with inaccuracies.
@@mymechanicsinsights😂 no, no it does not get thicker. Having worked with metal for over 20 years I can tell you any time you stretch metal, which is what you are doing here, it thins out. Don’t spread your foolishness to others.
@@Daveeeeeeyhowyoudoing I'm pretty sure with metals, soft doesn't mean weak...
@mymechanicsinsights how are you adding material to thicker the spot? 😂😂😂 your physics professor failed you badly
Усадка металла. Я делал еë угольным электродом в режиме сварочника 12 вольт. Респект кузовщику.
Zinc plated - corrosion+.
Interesting. My dad built funny cars back in the 60s-70s. I wasnt fortunate enough to have learned from him as he died when i was 7 but i have it in my blood i have that itch. Motorsports is always in the back of my mind. I want to learn all of this
I saw a guy heat the entire panel which relieved the stress and cured the oil can.
Makes sense, heating makes the molecules shrink more on 1 side than the other. Heating the outside surface would mean it slightly warps to the outside and makes the molecules on the outside more tense. Which could mean you cant push it in anymore. Oil canning like in this video is probably because the metal expanded just a tad from working the material. Shrinking towards the other side is the solution.
Yes, heating and tempering will change the hardness, and adjust the stiffness of the metal in the given area.
Wow, really neat trick!
i'm a boilermaker, my dad taught me this and his dad taught him and he was a panel beater in the 50's
Ima be one of those guys rn but always let it cool on its own, or you're hurting the integrity of its hardness, just like welding. Lol sorry
Good for old vehicles. Modern vehicles are made of thinner, high strength steel that reacts a lot differently than the steel in older vehicles
А как вы определяете в каком именно месте нужно проводить манипуляцию?
Где изгиб материала появляется там и делают.
Но увы , в дальнейшем , при нагрузке в этом месте материал просто лопнет.
Помимо этого начнет гнить моментально.
@@user-mh9vv5lw8n It will not just burst, why would it. It's mild steel and doesn't harden. The metal will be protected and also what loads, it's not a loaded part not even close.
@@user-mh9vv5lw8nесли правильно обработать то не начнёт.
@@МастерМаляр86 а смысл от операции тогда? Можно просто герметиком пройтись или мастикой , или просто лист вибры приклеить. - эффект будет тот же без всяких манипуляций с перегревом
@@user-mh9vv5lw8n вообще не будет никакого эфекта от вибры и герметика. Металл растянут, лишний металл надо стянуть, что и делает автор ролика, можно с помощью горелки, можно с помощью споттера. Споттер более щадяще работает чем горелка.
In case it's not clear. He has someone behind the metal with a backer as he hits it before he cools it. If you just whack hot metal and cool it it won't work. But yes this works. It's what they do on trains and planes to tighten the steel. Pretty cool.
We now use carbon rods to shrink panels. Much tidier and safer
glad there are plenty of experts to help you out here
God’s work, hate when tins don’t stand properly upright because the bottom is like that from manufacturing.
So, weaken the metal until it's brittle, then just hammer a dent in it... Got it! Thanks. Now I can start my own auto body shop!!!
It's not from removing the oil it's from heating it then quenching it realize the structure of the steel making it more crystalline AKA a hard and less flexible Steel...
Interesting 🤔 and very cool 😎 people never stop surprising me with their ingenuity 😎🙌🏽✊🏽
Use a dimple hammer next time you know the one that has the grid on the end. Its designed for shrinking metal. The heat and cooling with water is important too.
Honestly amazed at how many people work with metal on the daily on TH-cam here but I do see how hardening the thin sheet metal will make it ridged is it a long term fix no but with most of your guys memory skills you'll forget this guy ever repaired that this way before it ever fails
❤the dolly and hammer my old collision days, love the technique!
I used this technique to remove the door effect from an Boeing 737. It was a massive success.
I'm so glad I don't work much with sheet metal. Most designs I actually like are either tiny(Less than an inch) or use something other than the sheet metal for the structure. It always wants to wiggle and flop and make noise and take on permanent bends. It's flexible but not often not flexible enough to fit where you want it without bending and shoving. It's always got sharp edges, it can rust, it's electrically conductive... I'd prefer plastic pretty much any day!
In Nigeria, many of our mechanics and panel beaters use this same method😯 I had no idea westerners did it too👍
In case youre wondering. This is called tempering. Basically makes it stronger. IE tempered glass
It's not tempering, because it's not hardened.
This won't make significant change to the steel, except for removing stresses.
Tempered glass is nothing like steel -- tempering glass is more akin to quench hardening.
And, quenching steel doesn't make it stronger, it makes it harder, which makes it weaker, because it is less ductile -- strength is the ability to resist sudden shock, something hardened steel doesn't do particularly well (depending on the alloy.)
Big difference now instead of being unnoticeable it looks even worse than before you started
Tightening steel is an art, your def not doing it the usual way but if it works, and it's not structural, keep it up
If you’re doing this on a fuel tank, make sure it’s about half full first and you’ll have a great story to tell.
This is gonna work great on my air compressor, thanks bro! 🤙
That looks beautiful! The attention to detail is next level. This professional will change the world with their skill and intelligence!
Congratations! The metal is warped and brittle! 🎊 🎉
Ahaha, at first I read "can" and "effect" as verbs. And desided to watch the video to know how removing oil could effect you. Only then I realized that "can" and "effect" are nouns :D
Hey congrats you just acetylene torched all the resistivity out of your steel 👏
I love the idea of you giving us a sample of the kind of works published by these indie presses, thanks for highlighting them.
Also, an entire industry controlled by a handful of mega corporate entities that maintain an illusion of competition and diversity? Sounds like late stage capitalism to me!
You can actually achieve the same result with only heat, no quench and no hammer. The metal will shrink removing the canning effect
Who remembers the fella that tried this on the roof of a Ford Explorer on MONSTER GARAGE?
Homelslice totally effed up the whole thing and Jesse James was not amused. 🔥💀🤣
I love my stainless steel grinder operated shrinking disc.
I was an autobody repair man for over 30 years and this is definitely not the way you fix oilcanning sheet metal
i love how charlie can say “mumbo jumbo” and gobldegook and it sound completely normal
He's basically just stiffening the metal by heating and fast quenching, same thing is done to harden steel blades on knives, swords etc
Watching this without checking the description to even understand what was going on first time round
In all seriousness i wouldn’t do this technique on sheets but it works great for rebar, mesh wiring, or metal fencing
You only need to heat it enough to change the color at the high point then quench it with water or directed / pinpoint airflow. Heating it that much and hitting it that hard is stretching the metal causing it to be worse if you don't shrink it enough with cold causing you to chase it for days making your panel look like it has chicken pox!
Looks wilder than before. The material is more brittle than before. Just as it should be.
Same idea as Fuller on sword makes it more rigid adding groves or valley awesome video!
A fuller removes material. Any time you remove material you lose rigidity. It does remove a lot of weight without compromising its structure too much.
It's much easier to use the shrinking tips on modern stud welders now it's so much easier to control the heat and you can shrink a much smaller area.
Try this: get yourself a stud welder. Use it without a stud in the gun. Hold it down against the surface and hold the trigger for for like 3-4 full seconds. You will literally watch the metal heat up and shrink. No planishing needed. Then cool with water as you did here. You're welcome.
I love this technique I call it the “stfu and stay in place goddamn it”
Depending on what the use is for the metal heating it up like that and then rapidly cooling it may cause issues with internal stress due to the recrystallization of the metal. For any low end applications thats fine but if its gonna be a load bearing structure or pressure vessel it will induce weakpoints or points of failure. :s