I agree! You are a genius bro! Very informative, it’s really hard to find videos with proper explanation on how to install. And for once I wasn’t yelling at the screen. Lol
I went with the 3.5 inch extensions plus the Progressive fork spring upgrade. Made the install a million times easier. So the kit lowers the bike and inch but the caps are way easier to install. Its just right because the forks are now about 2.5 " over. The bike also rides better with the Prog springs not as bouncy as the stock springs.
solid video! Was looking for +8 fork tubes, but seems like no one has them in stock and its a hella long wait time so decided to roll +6 and add these extensions for my FXLR project. Helpful tip - it is a little more work, but its much easier to compress the cap on the forks if you remove the wheel and take out each individual fork so you can put your body weight directly over the cap while the fork is straight up and down. I've torn apart and rebuilt my forks several times and that has made it the least frustrating time haha Cheers from Texas!
Great video! I'm fixin' to put a set of these 2" extensions on my Wide Glide. Wide Glides already have 2" longer fork tubes than other stock Harleys like the Street Bob, and a bit more rake to them, so I think these spacers will give me a nice, chopper look.
Thanks for watching. One thing I didn’t mention on them was that you can polish them up before the install and get a similar finish to the chrome look. I ran a little test spot and wish I would’ve done it beforehand. 🤷🏽♂️
@@advanceautoparts1769 I do. I am about 6 inches over stock on the forks. If you just do the trackerdie kit, you can do stock length, 2 inches over or even 4 inches over. I went with the 4 inches over to start and wanted to add a little more so I go the caps. An alternative way of getting this look and ride feel would be by buying new fork tubes that are extended and you wouldn’t need the extended caps just adjust the internals to fit the look you want. I might do that later on with a different bike, now that I know a bit more about the way its set up. Hope that helps
Good video.. most make it look easy then I get 1/2 into it and im screwed hahaha. I putting these on my Breakout as we speak, diff SS steal Brand but 2”.. thanks for letting us know what were in for. Ride safe🤘🏻
All of the preload on those springs seemed a bit weird to me with my Harleys - my old Brit bikes never had that situation, maybe a little bit but nowhere near as much as the Harleys. When sitting on my bikes ( I have a 2006 XL1200R and 2010 Dyna Streetbob both with heavily moded engines making great power) with stock fork setup, I found I could use up most of the travel simply by pushing and pulling on the 'bars while holding the front brake on.... and the 'damping' seemed useless. Thinking about it, I realised that the springs were too soft and too long - the softness gave a smooth ride but the preload needed on the springs stopped them absorbing the bumps - they tended to act like a child's pogo stick. I got some springs made up that were 50% stronger, wound simply (not dual rate or progressive), fitted emulators set fairly soft and spacers that - in conjunction with the depth of the topnut - gave virtually no preload, that is taken care of by the 'sag' with the weight of the bike and rider. I also used (two and a half Inch) extended damper tubes on the Sporty which increases the ride height but offers more travel so it's a better ride especially with decent rear (and slightley longer) units from Hagon... the bike habdles really well now and is so comfortable. The Dyna got two inch extended damper tubes, emulators, 50% stronger springs and again virtually no preload except that provided by the bike's "sag"..... ride height was a bit low and the extended travel accounts for more of the tubes than I care for so I'm using two inch over tubes. I also use Wideglide yokes (triple trees to you Americans !) which are raked two degrees and along with rear units by Hagon, the bike is so smooth and the raised ride height allows for increased lean angles as I was always grinding footpegs and breaking the clamps that hold the heatsheilds to the front silencer ! I do have adjustable topnuts to allow me to set the preload very precisely without dismantling the forks - something I cannot do with the emulators, I had to try several settings before arriving at what is right for me and now no longer have the uncomfortable 'bounce' experienced with the standard unadjustable damper rods when encountering unexpected potholes etc on the road. These things I mention seem to be standard on most modern bikes and I find it dificult to understand why Harley are so 'stuck-in-the-past' with the suspension systems they use - even later bikes with the supposed cartridge suspension are no better as once again, Harley 'did it on the cheap' !
Thanks, I did install one while it was up on a jack and it did not make a significant difference (for me). I thought it would be much different and so I tried it while the bike was on the ground. I felt more secure in putting pressure on the front end while on the kickstand and didn’t feel concern about dropping the bike. Thanks for watching.
@@hypefxx9011 Not gonna lie, definitely feel more of the road now. The handling is not as “stiff” as is was in its original stock form, but its also not super squishy either. If I was to do this again, I would would consider buying the longer fork tubes and cutting the PVC spacers to match the right ride height and calculate the recommended fork oil. Overall happy and I got the look I’m after.
When youre taking the cap off unscrew it all the way then before you take it off tighten it until it starts to bite then unscrew a quarter turn then mark it so you only have to screw it a quarter turn b4 before it bites
I’ll start by saying I’m not a mechanic or wrench turner by any measure. I’d likely not succeed in using the palm pressure method however I think I’d trace that piece into a 2x4 and drill/grind a cup hole in the board, then lean on it with my right forearm while screwing it in with my left hand. That’s likely the only way I’d get it pushed down far enough to turn
I'm going to add 3" to my softail, but I'll lift the bike to help take some of the compression off the forks from the weight of the bike. hopefully that will help. looks good, did you notice a difference in the leaning of the bike?
Hi! Hope it goes smoothly for you! I did install one side (on a previous video) while on the jack stand and what I did not like about that experience was that it felt like i was one big push away from tipping the bike over. I honestly didn’t feel a difference on the spring pressure, both sides were equally tough but what I did like about the bike being on the floor was that i had a little extra leverage from my height being able to put my body weight into it. Thanks for watching!
I have the Trackerdie cartridge eliminator kit with extended dampeners; when I did that I replaced the stock HD springs to progressive suspension springs. Might’ve contributed to the added pressure. I have a video of that install. Thanks for watching!
I guess it depends on whether or not you have the stock internal components still on your bike, that is, the cartridge on one side and the standard spring on the other side. These fork caps have a hollowed out center and do not have the threaded side needed for the cartridge so you would need to swap out the cartridge side to make it symmetrical and be able to match fork springs. I hope that helps, I am thinking of making a follow up video to help explain, let me know if that would be something you or others would consider watching. Thanks!
i guess they will fit as long as the forks are 39mm... on the forty eight they changed the front fork and went with a bigger diameter, like 49mm or something like that, but i think on stock Iron the fork should be still 39
Of course, make sure you check out my other fork cap video where I talk about and describe the fork tube internals. I did have to replace the stock springs but I’m running the progressive suspension standard springs. The overall feel is a bit different, but it has more to do with the ergonomics than anything. Thanks for watching.
It’s the Saddlemen step up, I love it. I did a parts and price break down video listing each thing I’ve added to the bike, check it out on my channel. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽
Yeah, I didn’t have to replace the triple trees and the frame/neck is OEM, I kept the original fork tubes too. It’s got all new internals which changed up the way it sits. It’s a 39mm front end, which I think is the same set up as the street bob. Might work? Not too sure. Thanks for watching.
Bro I like the bar risers I was running "pull back " risers turned forward on my dyna for a few years here in Australia It put my bars exactly where I wanted But some people couldn't wrap their heads around it... "It looks odd, They're pull back risers not pull forward " Wankers !
I am linking another video that might help you better understand the process… th-cam.com/video/vcefD-5ABLg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JCk6La2JhyPNKUUC It’s from my channel as well. Long story short you might need to do a few more steps before just switching out to extension caps.
I do still have them on and haven't had any issues with them, even did a trip from Seattle to Portland and back and had no concerns. For the look I was going for, they're definitely a great option to consider. Thanks for watching.
Good question, I think that you should be fine and not have to cut a new piece of pvc because there should be a washer that sandwiches between the threads on the caps and the pvc. Hope that your install goes smoothly, thanks for watching.
@@advanceautoparts1769 When I took the forks apart to replace the OEM cartridge, the other side had a PVC spacer from the factory to match the spring rate. When I added the extended dampener kit from TrackerDie I had to add one new spacer to match the OEM part/length, making them even on both sides. Those two pieces, the PVC and washers, were part of the internals of the forks and did not come with the extended fork caps.
This is the link from when I put the video out, hope it still works, thanks for watching. www.amazon.com/dp/B09S5PGVDV?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_YZ0PG1T89EP1FJ0XFDAV
Hard to say personally if it is as safe, but I would say that I dont have a concern about them failing or being unstable. The top triple tree is well seated and clamps down on the caps, as well as the bottom one. I personally dont know if I would do extensions that are beyond the 2 maybe 3” ones because of possible rigidity/structural issues, but for these, I feel good. Thanks for watching. 🤙🏽
@@nooowayyjose thanks man, I recently bought legend axeos and they basically mount the same way, I was alittle sketch about the threads being under but after looking around a bit Im alot more at ease haha
As long as the extensions screw into the forks BETWEEN the triple trees, then it is definately safe. Any jolts, pressure, strain etc would be on the edge of the fork legs and triple tree yokes, there would be no force on the tubes between the triple tree. I have had 4 inch extensions and a 3 degree bearing rake on my 1999 wideglide for the last 5 years, ridden hard and regularly, and no problems at all. The stock fxdwg forks are fitted with a small extension under the caps where it screws together just under the top triple tree anyway, so its the same principle. Its totally safe between the triple trees, but a DEATHTRAP if fitted below the bottom yolk on the tp,s.
how tall are you ? I ask cause I'm 6 foot and my brother in law says I'm to big to buy the iron 1200.Even though I'm only going to ride it to work ,1 mile and around town . Have wifey sho you riding the bike
I’m 6 ft tall also, I do find it to be a great overall bike (I have an 883). I think it has plenty of power and pep to get around town and get on at hwy speeds. I like that you can pretty much modify it in any which way. I will say that I did feel a bit cramped to start in the stock form, but adding some risers and extending the front forks made a good difference and doesn’t make me feel small on the bike. I got it as a first bike with no prior riding experience so I think its a great in that regard. IMO a 1200 would be ideal. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@billalcantar03 I just want to jump in here. I'm 5'9", but I weigh about 210ish. I had a 1200 Custom, which I sold to a friend, and I still occasionally ride that bike. Now, I ride a Wide Glide with a 103, and that damn 1200 can keep up with me in the short distance, like red light to red light. A 1200 Sporty is nothing to sneeze at. That thing is a rocket, and will certainly pull even a big boy more quickly that you have business going. Now, my Wide Glide is a 6 speed, so for interstate riding, it is better than a Sporty. The 1200 will keep up at 80 mph or so, but it's kind of buzzing compared to a bigger six speed bike. But for around town and shorter commutes, a Sporty is a great bike and huge fun.
If they screw into the forks between the triple trees, they are totally safe. Fxdwg forks have a small version of these on the forks as standard. Though fitting extensions below the triple tree would be suicidal.
I’m about 6 ft tall, it definitely feels a bit taller but that’s also because I have the TrackerDie extended dampener kit installed too. Total the front forks are at 6over. Not sure if this idea would work, but maybe roll the bike up onto a wood board or something similar with a two inch lift and see how it feels before taking the front apart. Good luck, thanks for watching.
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Great video. Very informative. You won’t believe how far and wide I’ve looked for a video this detailed. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching.
I agree! You are a genius bro!
Very informative, it’s really hard to find videos with proper explanation on how to install. And for once I wasn’t yelling at the screen. Lol
I went with the 3.5 inch extensions plus the Progressive fork spring upgrade. Made the install a million times easier. So the kit lowers the bike and inch but the caps are way easier to install. Its just right because the forks are now about 2.5 " over. The bike also rides better with the Prog springs not as bouncy as the stock springs.
solid video! Was looking for +8 fork tubes, but seems like no one has them in stock and its a hella long wait time so decided to roll +6 and add these extensions for my FXLR project. Helpful tip - it is a little more work, but its much easier to compress the cap on the forks if you remove the wheel and take out each individual fork so you can put your body weight directly over the cap while the fork is straight up and down. I've torn apart and rebuilt my forks several times and that has made it the least frustrating time haha Cheers from Texas!
Looking very good I've had to watch videos on everything I'm doing to my bike lots of them 😊
Jack the bike off the ground to take the pressure off the suspension and it will be a HELL of a lot easier!, 👍
Great video! I'm fixin' to put a set of these 2" extensions on my Wide Glide. Wide Glides already have 2" longer fork tubes than other stock Harleys like the Street Bob, and a bit more rake to them, so I think these spacers will give me a nice, chopper look.
Thanks for watching. One thing I didn’t mention on them was that you can polish them up before the install and get a similar finish to the chrome look. I ran a little test spot and wish I would’ve done it beforehand. 🤷🏽♂️
If you get this 2 inch kit do you still have to do the trackerdie kit?
@@advanceautoparts1769 I do. I am about 6 inches over stock on the forks. If you just do the trackerdie kit, you can do stock length, 2 inches over or even 4 inches over. I went with the 4 inches over to start and wanted to add a little more so I go the caps. An alternative way of getting this look and ride feel would be by buying new fork tubes that are extended and you wouldn’t need the extended caps just adjust the internals to fit the look you want. I might do that later on with a different bike, now that I know a bit more about the way its set up. Hope that helps
Jim’s makes an install tool for this makes it simple and no chance of cross threading
I cant believe what 2 inches did for the look. I might have to get some of these
Awesome
I am binge watching your videos
Thanks for the support, I really appreciate it! 🤙🏽
Your bike looks dope af
Good video.. most make it look easy then I get 1/2 into it and im screwed hahaha. I putting these on my Breakout as we speak, diff SS steal Brand but 2”.. thanks for letting us know what were in for. Ride safe🤘🏻
oh man the link doesnt work! where can i find the proper ones.. i got the ones that are both hollow a few days ago
Nice! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching 🙌🏽
Have you noticed any corrosion with them being aluminum and forks being steal?
All of the preload on those springs seemed a bit weird to me with my Harleys - my old Brit bikes never had that situation, maybe a little bit but nowhere near as much as the Harleys. When sitting on my bikes ( I have a 2006 XL1200R and 2010 Dyna Streetbob both with heavily moded engines making great power) with stock fork setup, I found I could use up most of the travel simply by pushing and pulling on the 'bars while holding the front brake on.... and the 'damping' seemed useless.
Thinking about it, I realised that the springs were too soft and too long - the softness gave a smooth ride but the preload needed on the springs stopped them absorbing the bumps - they tended to act like a child's pogo stick.
I got some springs made up that were 50% stronger, wound simply (not dual rate or progressive), fitted emulators set fairly soft and spacers that - in conjunction with the depth of the topnut - gave virtually no preload, that is taken care of by the 'sag' with the weight of the bike and rider. I also used (two and a half Inch) extended damper tubes on the Sporty which increases the ride height but offers more travel so it's a better ride especially with decent rear (and slightley longer) units from Hagon... the bike habdles really well now and is so comfortable.
The Dyna got two inch extended damper tubes, emulators, 50% stronger springs and again virtually no preload except that provided by the bike's "sag"..... ride height was a bit low and the extended travel accounts for more of the tubes than I care for so I'm using two inch over tubes. I also use Wideglide yokes (triple trees to you Americans !) which are raked two degrees and along with rear units by Hagon, the bike is so smooth and the raised ride height allows for increased lean angles as I was always grinding footpegs and breaking the clamps that hold the heatsheilds to the front silencer !
I do have adjustable topnuts to allow me to set the preload very precisely without dismantling the forks - something I cannot do with the emulators, I had to try several settings before arriving at what is right for me and now no longer have the uncomfortable 'bounce' experienced with the standard unadjustable damper rods when encountering unexpected potholes etc on the road.
These things I mention seem to be standard on most modern bikes and I find it dificult to understand why Harley are so 'stuck-in-the-past' with the suspension systems they use - even later bikes with the supposed cartridge suspension are no better as once again, Harley 'did it on the cheap' !
You need to have the bike up in the air to release the pressure off of them.
Thanks, I did install one while it was up on a jack and it did not make a significant difference (for me). I thought it would be much different and so I tried it while the bike was on the ground. I felt more secure in putting pressure on the front end while on the kickstand and didn’t feel concern about dropping the bike. Thanks for watching.
Damn looks so much better.
Thanks G!
Did you notice if the bumps are harsher now or the same?
@@hypefxx9011 Not gonna lie, definitely feel more of the road now. The handling is not as “stiff” as is was in its original stock form, but its also not super squishy either. If I was to do this again, I would would consider buying the longer fork tubes and cutting the PVC spacers to match the right ride height and calculate the recommended fork oil. Overall happy and I got the look I’m after.
When youre taking the cap off unscrew it all the way then before you take it off tighten it until it starts to bite then unscrew a quarter turn then mark it so you only have to screw it a quarter turn b4 before it bites
I’ll start by saying I’m not a mechanic or wrench turner by any measure. I’d likely not succeed in using the palm pressure method however I think I’d trace that piece into a 2x4 and drill/grind a cup hole in the board, then lean on it with my right forearm while screwing it in with my left hand. That’s likely the only way I’d get it pushed down far enough to turn
I'm going to add 3" to my softail, but I'll lift the bike to help take some of the compression off the forks from the weight of the bike. hopefully that will help. looks good, did you notice a difference in the leaning of the bike?
Hi! Hope it goes smoothly for you! I did install one side (on a previous video) while on the jack stand and what I did not like about that experience was that it felt like i was one big push away from tipping the bike over. I honestly didn’t feel a difference on the spring pressure, both sides were equally tough but what I did like about the bike being on the floor was that i had a little extra leverage from my height being able to put my body weight into it. Thanks for watching!
how to adjust correctly if only have a couple holes? This is safe ?
Exactly what I needed to know,thanks ✌️
So your tubes are 4 over AND you installed these 2 inch extensions?
Did you get new springs or keep the stock ones
I have the Trackerdie cartridge eliminator kit with extended dampeners; when I did that I replaced the stock HD springs to progressive suspension springs. Might’ve contributed to the added pressure. I have a video of that install. Thanks for watching!
Looks clean bro you think they’ll fit on a 2020 iron883 some of the reviews say it on for up to 2016 sportsters ?
I guess it depends on whether or not you have the stock internal components still on your bike, that is, the cartridge on one side and the standard spring on the other side. These fork caps have a hollowed out center and do not have the threaded side needed for the cartridge so you would need to swap out the cartridge side to make it symmetrical and be able to match fork springs. I hope that helps, I am thinking of making a follow up video to help explain, let me know if that would be something you or others would consider watching. Thanks!
i guess they will fit as long as the forks are 39mm... on the forty eight they changed the front fork and went with a bigger diameter, like 49mm or something like that, but i think on stock Iron the fork should be still 39
Did you have the bike jacked up?
Thank you for the video man✌🏼
I’m going to do the same on my sporty”72”
Does it change the rating of the spring?
Of course, make sure you check out my other fork cap video where I talk about and describe the fork tube internals. I did have to replace the stock springs but I’m running the progressive suspension standard springs. The overall feel is a bit different, but it has more to do with the ergonomics than anything. Thanks for watching.
What change did this make to your take & trail measurements?
I dont know specifically but definitely feels different, suits me better and I like the way it looks overall.
What kind of seat is on your bike looks great
It’s the Saddlemen step up, I love it. I did a parts and price break down video listing each thing I’ve added to the bike, check it out on my channel. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽
Is that the stock front end rake? Looks real good, almost like a new extended front end! Do they make a kit for a DYNA Street Bob?
Yeah, I didn’t have to replace the triple trees and the frame/neck is OEM, I kept the original fork tubes too. It’s got all new internals which changed up the way it sits. It’s a 39mm front end, which I think is the same set up as the street bob. Might work? Not too sure. Thanks for watching.
Bro I like the bar risers
I was running "pull back " risers turned forward on my dyna for a few years here in Australia
It put my bars exactly where I wanted
But some people couldn't wrap their heads around it...
"It looks odd,
They're pull back risers not pull forward "
Wankers !
For the left fork how do I remove the cap mine seems to be stuck to the spring
I am linking another video that might help you better understand the process… th-cam.com/video/vcefD-5ABLg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JCk6La2JhyPNKUUC It’s from my channel as well. Long story short you might need to do a few more steps before just switching out to extension caps.
Why not just get extended tubes?
It’s been a year since the video has been posted do you still have them on and do you recommend
I do still have them on and haven't had any issues with them, even did a trip from Seattle to Portland and back and had no concerns. For the look I was going for, they're definitely a great option to consider. Thanks for watching.
If I bought some 5" extensions do you think I would have to replace the pvc
Good question, I think that you should be fine and not have to cut a new piece of pvc because there should be a washer that sandwiches between the threads on the caps and the pvc. Hope that your install goes smoothly, thanks for watching.
Whats is that pvc and washer does that come with the kit or you have to cut a pvc pipe?
@@advanceautoparts1769 When I took the forks apart to replace the OEM cartridge, the other side had a PVC spacer from the factory to match the spring rate. When I added the extended dampener kit from TrackerDie I had to add one new spacer to match the OEM part/length, making them even on both sides. Those two pieces, the PVC and washers, were part of the internals of the forks and did not come with the extended fork caps.
Shouldn’t need pvc since these are caps
Were you get extensions
This is the link from when I put the video out, hope it still works, thanks for watching. www.amazon.com/dp/B09S5PGVDV?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_YZ0PG1T89EP1FJ0XFDAV
Do you think its as safe as stock? Since the threads are under the top clamp?
Hard to say personally if it is as safe, but I would say that I dont have a concern about them failing or being unstable. The top triple tree is well seated and clamps down on the caps, as well as the bottom one. I personally dont know if I would do extensions that are beyond the 2 maybe 3” ones because of possible rigidity/structural issues, but for these, I feel good. Thanks for watching. 🤙🏽
@@nooowayyjose thanks man, I recently bought legend axeos and they basically mount the same way, I was alittle sketch about the threads being under but after looking around a bit Im alot more at ease haha
The unaffiliatedfam crew runs +5 slugs with +6 tubes. So far they haven’t had any issues
As long as the extensions screw into the forks BETWEEN the triple trees, then it is definately safe. Any jolts, pressure, strain etc would be on the edge of the fork legs and triple tree yokes, there would be no force on the tubes between the triple tree. I have had 4 inch extensions and a 3 degree bearing rake on my 1999 wideglide for the last 5 years, ridden hard and regularly, and no problems at all. The stock fxdwg forks are fitted with a small extension under the caps where it screws together just under the top triple tree anyway, so its the same principle. Its totally safe between the triple trees, but a DEATHTRAP if fitted below the bottom yolk on the tp,s.
Thank you for this video
Your risers are installed backwards lol
The harder you press with it on the ground is useless get weight off front end.
how tall are you ? I ask cause I'm 6 foot and my brother in law says I'm to big to buy the iron 1200.Even though I'm only going to ride it to work ,1 mile and around town . Have wifey sho you riding the bike
I’m 6 ft tall also, I do find it to be a great overall bike (I have an 883). I think it has plenty of power and pep to get around town and get on at hwy speeds. I like that you can pretty much modify it in any which way. I will say that I did feel a bit cramped to start in the stock form, but adding some risers and extending the front forks made a good difference and doesn’t make me feel small on the bike. I got it as a first bike with no prior riding experience so I think its a great in that regard. IMO a 1200 would be ideal. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@nooowayyjose I also have no riding experience and this will be my first bike . The bike looks great.
You forgot to lift up the front end to remove pressure
@@billalcantar03 I just want to jump in here. I'm 5'9", but I weigh about 210ish. I had a 1200 Custom, which I sold to a friend, and I still occasionally ride that bike. Now, I ride a Wide Glide with a 103, and that damn 1200 can keep up with me in the short distance, like red light to red light. A 1200 Sporty is nothing to sneeze at. That thing is a rocket, and will certainly pull even a big boy more quickly that you have business going. Now, my Wide Glide is a 6 speed, so for interstate riding, it is better than a Sporty. The 1200 will keep up at 80 mph or so, but it's kind of buzzing compared to a bigger six speed bike. But for around town and shorter commutes, a Sporty is a great bike and huge fun.
Haha I’m 6’4 290lbs on a sporty
Needs fork boots
Befor and after pics would have been nice
Your risers r backwards
I set them up that way on purpose; mostly for aesthetics and fitment. Thanks for watching.
We called these slugs when we used them in 1970.
Next time compress forks with a ratchet strap
That looks more than 2" over.
Total its 6 over, I have a trackerdie extended damper rod kit installed at 4” and then added these 2” caps. So yes, you’re correct.
You could have made this so much easier on yourself and lifted the front end of the bike taking pressure off the forks. 🤣🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
I did that on one of the forks, it was not significantly different and was actually a bit more unstable. 🫡
No offense to the poster, but this is a dumb idea. Get longer tubes. Do it right or don’t do it at all. The ass you save might be your own 😂
If they screw into the forks between the triple trees, they are totally safe. Fxdwg forks have a small version of these on the forks as standard. Though fitting extensions below the triple tree would be suicidal.
How tall are you? I really want to get this but I ain't the tallest at 5,6 😂
I’m about 6 ft tall, it definitely feels a bit taller but that’s also because I have the TrackerDie extended dampener kit installed too. Total the front forks are at 6over. Not sure if this idea would work, but maybe roll the bike up onto a wood board or something similar with a two inch lift and see how it feels before taking the front apart. Good luck, thanks for watching.