I use an “extend-a-stay” adapter on my RV propane tank. It allows me to run off portable propane tanks instead of the RV LP tank. When they are empty, I run those into town to refill. Thus not having to move the RV.
Yes, this is a good suggestion. We added one to our "cart" in Amazon months ago. When we return to civilization we will order and install it. Thank you for watching and commenting. What has been your longest Boondock session?
The problem at night for sleeping is we're trying to use our body heat to warm up too much space, space that we aren't using and doesn't need heat. To reduce heating costs make a tent over the bed. If heating before you sleep, you're already good, the tent is warm. But if your camper is ambient, like outdoor tent camping, it's more about cocoons, like how insulated glass works. You can try to warm a house with a sheet of glass and it will block wind but heat transfer through the glass is quick and indoors is constantly struggling to maintain temps. Put a layer of AIR between two sheets of glass and that heat transfer slows down considerably. In the example of a tent over the bed to sleep, two cocoons work better than one, and the inner one can even be mesh since your body heat and breath warm up the space under mesh to a critical temp before it leaks into the space between it and the wind breaking layer over that. A mosquito net would work, with a parachute tarp. Both are low packing weight and bulk, with maximum sizing for a double bed. All that remains is to examine your camper layout for attachments, or the need for segments hoops. It can be secured with velco, clips/clamps, pressed into cabinet doors, a ridgeline/clothesline or just a peak attachment for a tipi configuration. In the morning, fire up the heater to move around comfortably. If it's still too cold , keep adding cocoons. My friend said she was freezing on her cot in her down bag with wool insulation pad. I got up, flung open the nylon parachute tarp over her and got back in my own bag on the floor. Within a few minutes she said she was toasty, and minutes after that she was snoring. (Took me a little longer). And wear head covering. ~25% of body heat is lost out the top of your head. As for things in the camper that shouldn't freeze, a tent over the bed won't do it. What causes frozen pipes is not temp per se, but DRAFTS. Air movement over a pipe (says THIS OLD HOUSE) is what lowers temps to freezing using principles of wind chill, and the areas at risk are 90 degree bends, change in pipe diameter or materials. Gray water is already a solution of sorts which lowers freezing temp so unless the cold is brutal, it will probably be OK, as will septic. What's at risk is fresh water, flush water, shower water, so pack the spaces around those in the crawl spaces with soft foam, or - if on the cheap - use those air pillows that come as packing material. On the fly, even crumpled newspaper will work, but OK temporarily since it's a fire hazard. Air pillows are squishy-pliable with negligible weight. I pulled out the wet pink insulation around the cabin pipes and packed air pillows in there instead for pipe protection. Not only solved the wall draft freezing my kitchen sink pipes, it's easier to work with because it doesn't absorb water and doesn't get moldy or gloppy. The goal is to stop drafts blowing over pipes or tanks. Alternatively, and this works in chicken water dispensers - even use a solar aquarium bubbler ~ $20-30 depending on battery storage of solar energy ~ to keep water moving just enough so it doesn't ice over. When seed crystals form, the rest of freezing goes pretty quickly, and if the ice dam is pushing against a closed valve like a faucet, it can create pressures upward of 10,000 psi, enough to split copper. A solar bubbler that shuts off when the sun goes down doesn't really help, but one with battery conservation of excess solar is good. Save the Mr.Buddy for when you're using the rest of the space.
@dandeleona4760 Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts-the ideas you've added are functional and productive! Cocoons-this is an interesting concept that very few people would consider, but when you detail it the way you did it makes sense. I'm sure many people could benefit from using that technique. Headwear-a simple but very effective practice that we use continually but forgot to mention in the video-thanks for reminding everyone. Heating only the space you need to heat is another productive idea. We had used this idea in the past with good results. Somewhere in the last couple of years we drifted away from using it-so your reminder will help get us back on track with it! How long is your longest boondock session?
Thanks for the insight on how you guys' boondock. We've been FT for the last 4 years in a 35ft, 99 National Tropical class A. We boondock most of the time and are doing so now. We use the smaller Mr. Heater Buddy which we plumbed into our 24-gallon propane tank. We also have an Extend-a-Stay kit which enables us to use a 20 lb portable tank too. We carry a spare Mr. Buddy so we can take one apart and clean it while using the other. It also allows us to double the BTU output from 4,000/9,000 to 8,000/18,000 btus if it gets really cold, using the small, 1lb tanks when this is rarely needed. I can't remember the last time we built a fire other than with charcoals for a little BBQ. We added a 620w liftable solar array on the side of our MH, over our bedroom window, which serves as a nice awning too. It practically lifts itself to the desired angle with a couple gas struts and it's easy to clean with a windshield squeegee, standing safely on the ground. By mounting our current solar array on the side of our MH, we left the roof free to rack a large array on the roof, which we're planning on doing early next year. Last January we replaced our 2 aging GC-2 golf cart batteries with a custom built 560ah of LiFePo-4 battery, made with 8, 280ah prismatic cells. It has really been a game changer for us. We chose a Heltec 350amp BMS, to start the onboard 5,500watt generator in our motorhome, (which we haven't run in about 3 months) along with a 5a active balancer to keep all the cells synched up. We built our 12v battery with grade "A" LiFePo-4 prismatic cells having a 6,000-cycle manufacturer projected life at 100% DOD. This means that if we cycled them 100% every single day, 365 days a year, they would last over 16 years! So they're obviously going to wear out from age before they wear out from cycling as we only use 15-20% of their capacity daily, giving us enough reserve capacity for about a week of bad weather before we have to run our generator for charging. We even have enough power to run an electric blanket at night when needed - truly a luxury. It cost us less than $1,500 to build this 560ah battery, including the high amp BMS and active balancer. We chose these cells because they fit perfectly under the steps of our motorhome where our old pair of GC-2 golf cart batteries used to reside, saving 35lbs while having over 5 times the energy storage capacity. We've found our Lithiums charge much faster than our old lead acid batteries did and are typically full before 2:00 PM. This first phase, including our 620w liftable solar array, wiring, breakers, a new Progressive Dynamics 80a Li compatible converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy PSW inverter (to run our TV, PC, ice maker, etc.), an Epever 50a MPPT charge controller for our solar panels, a Lnex battery monitor/shunt, and a Renogy battery to battery charger (to protect the alternator) cost us around $3,600. Take care, we hope to see you down the road!
Awesome comments, thanks for taking the time to share them. We're always learning new things from others like you. For example, I didn't know that cleaning a Mr Heater was even a thing and now I will look into it because of your comment. Also the term "solar array" is not something used in our chosen geographical region of boondocking, so that was a new to me concept, which I can see the value in. My guess is that you are situated further south than us? We are generally in central/northern Canada. Solar hours/strength are significantly diminished here in the spring/fall seasons. Again, thank you for adding your upgrades in these comments. I hadn't heard of many of them so I will have a bunch of research to do.
@@PlanFree We are happy to help. We use a filter on our Mr. Heater and replace it twice a year but find that oil still accumulates in the heater's gas lines causing the pilot flame to get smaller and the heater to produce a slight roaring sound as it runs. If yours starts showing these symptoms the gas lines need cleaning. We use Q-tips, pipe cleaners and rubbing alcohol to remove the oil from the lines. MAF cleaner found at auto parts stores works to, but you must be outside to avoid the harmful vapors if MAF cleaner is used. A solar array is 2 or more panels fastened together on a common plane, typically so that they can be angled to face the sun, or at least lifted to the optimal angle to harvest more energy based on latitude and month - which is what we do. You can increase the amount of energy they harvest by 30% or more by doing this, especially in the winter. The further north you live the more you will benefit from being able to angle your panels to better follow the sun's arc across the sky. I am boondocking on Lake Mead, NV just outside of Las Vegas now, Oct. 1st. I use this website to determine the optimal angle for my array, which is 46 degrees from vertical here now. www.solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-angle-calculator.html If I were in Saskatoon, CN, the correct angle would be 30 degrees from vertical this month and only 22 degrees from vertical next month and only 14 degrees in December. Lifting a flat, horizontal array to an almost vertical 14 degrees in December in CN will about triple their solar production. Later this month we will be boondocking near Yuma, AZ by the MX border for the winter where it's nice and warm. There will be lots of Canadian snowbirds there as well, fleeing the harsh northern weather for our snow bare land. Last year we wintered over near Brownsville, TX. I don't think I even put on a sweater all winter.
@@PlanFree I use propane from my ASME tank attached to my MH, but rubber propane lines used to carry high pressure propane bleed oil from the rubber into the gas which will contaminate a Mr. Heater Buddy heater. The Big Buddy has a port for a low-pressure propane line to attach, so it doesn't share this problem with its little brother.
I boondocked for around 6 weeks total this summer. I have 4350 watts solar, 6000 watt inverter, and 15,360 battery storage. The solar makes boondocking a breeze. for heat I use a portable electric heater, or the heat pumps on the AC units.
@PlanFree one of the most successful projects I've ever done. I've had it almost 2 years now, and maybe 15,000 miles down the roads, it's held out well, except for extreme temps in Las Vegas, where it took out 1 battery.
For 6 months of boondocking you didn't discuss other things. for instance, toilet, how is that done? do you use the black tank in your motorhome, a compost toilet, or, the woods. Also water, where do you source your water, and store it. We have a hundred gallon fresh water, 60 gal gray tank and 40 gal black tank. We found that we had to go to a dump station to dump and get fresh water every 2 weeks.
You will enjoy our FULL VERSION Boondock longer video; th-cam.com/video/Zs5dMqD9Fuc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Xmj5rQkJRfDrXBTp We discuss water/tank management, food, lights and MORE! Thank you for watching and commenting. What is your longest Boondock session so far?
The typical BLM and FS limit is around 2 weeks anyway, so there's no need to go longer than 2 weeks between dump station/freshwater fills. We boondock for many months at a time, but still need to fill and dump every 2 weeks too. Our fresh tank is only 95 gallons, so we carry an extra 15 gallons in our toad to make the full 2-week limit. If it's really hot and we go through more than 110 gallons we simply take our toad to town to get another 15 gallons. We most often get fresh water when we dump. Many Interstate rest areas have free dump stations. Some small towns have free, RV dump at their sewer plants or fairgrounds, City Parks, Visitor centers, Chambers of Commerce and many Maverick and other gas stations offer free dump and fill when you fuel your MH or TV. I recently dumped and filled for free at the Camping World in St. George, UT. Cabela’s and Bass Pro Shops often have free dump stations too. Campendium is a good source for dump/fill stations as is rvdumpsites.net . In a couple weeks we will be at the LTVAs around Quartzsite, AZ and Imperial Dam, CA. Their 7-month $180 seasonal permit allows unlimited dump and fill as well as trash disposal - and of course a safe, level place to spend the winter. If you have an America the Beautiful NP permit you can get free entry into national parks which allow you to use their campground dump stations and water spigots free of charge, even if you're not staying there. We've done this at the Grand Canyon NP, Yellowstone and most recently the Lake Mead Recreational Area (where we are boondocking now at Government Wash) which has 2 CGs where you can dump and fill for free. Some FS CGs charge a small fee ($5-$10) for dump and fill. But if they are conveniently located, I'd rather pay the small fee than drive 15-20 miles out of my way burning not only a couple gallons gas but my time too. My last option is commercial RV parks, where I've paid up to $20 to dump and fill when I had no other choice.
@@SuperSushidog Yes that is true if you're only boondocking on BLM/Crown land. In our scenario we have several arrangements to stay as long as we like on private raw land and so there is most definitely a need to boondock much longer than 2 weeks before having to pack up and move. For us that is far too frequent.
4:11 Yes! In Australia we used hot water bottles all the time, but I never see Canadians using them! I’ve been meaning to look at buying one for the colder weather ahead of us. Very cool video to see how you guys do it ( I totally thought when we talked to you on the road that you were in a tent by those loud folk. So yes, we were camping on the same side after all 🤦🏼♂️)
Hot water bottles are so underrated right? Inexpensive to buy, they last a longtime and they are cheap/free to recharge when using a pot of water heated on the fire. Thanks for watching and commenting. Got any more fishing adventures planned this year?
@@PlanFree 100%. They are on my list to buy! Do you have an affiliate link? You bet! I’m heading to the coast for a week of salmon and sturgeon fishing, can’t wait!
![[#2024MAMA] BIGBANG (빅뱅) - 뱅뱅뱅 (BANG BANG BANG) + FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQsYfiPR9uM/mqdefault.jpg)
FULL VERSION Boondocking Longer video here;
th-cam.com/video/Zs5dMqD9Fuc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=To6h7Se6ZAYU1peI
We discuss WATER, FOOD, LIGHT, POWER and more!
I use an “extend-a-stay” adapter on my RV propane tank. It allows me to run off portable propane tanks instead of the RV LP tank. When they are empty, I run those into town to refill. Thus not having to move the RV.
Yes, this is a good suggestion. We added one to our "cart" in Amazon months ago. When we return to civilization we will order and install it. Thank you for watching and commenting. What has been your longest Boondock session?
Great tips, thanks. My husband and I live in our rv.
You're welcome, hope they are helpful to you. How long have you two been living in your RV?
The problem at night for sleeping is we're trying to use our body heat to warm up too much space, space that we aren't using and doesn't need heat. To reduce heating costs make a tent over the bed. If heating before you sleep, you're already good, the tent is warm. But if your camper is ambient, like outdoor tent camping, it's more about cocoons, like how insulated glass works. You can try to warm a house with a sheet of glass and it will block wind but heat transfer through the glass is quick and indoors is constantly struggling to maintain temps. Put a layer of AIR between two sheets of glass and that heat transfer slows down considerably.
In the example of a tent over the bed to sleep, two cocoons work better than one, and the inner one can even be mesh since your body heat and breath warm up the space under mesh to a critical temp before it leaks into the space between it and the wind breaking layer over that. A mosquito net would work, with a parachute tarp. Both are low packing weight and bulk, with maximum sizing for a double bed. All that remains is to examine your camper layout for attachments, or the need for segments hoops. It can be secured with velco, clips/clamps, pressed into cabinet doors, a ridgeline/clothesline or just a peak attachment for a tipi configuration. In the morning, fire up the heater to move around comfortably.
If it's still too cold , keep adding cocoons. My friend said she was freezing on her cot in her down bag with wool insulation pad. I got up, flung open the nylon parachute tarp over her and got back in my own bag on the floor. Within a few minutes she said she was toasty, and minutes after that she was snoring. (Took me a little longer).
And wear head covering. ~25% of body heat is lost out the top of your head.
As for things in the camper that shouldn't freeze, a tent over the bed won't do it. What causes frozen pipes is not temp per se, but DRAFTS. Air movement over a pipe (says THIS OLD HOUSE) is what lowers temps to freezing using principles of wind chill, and the areas at risk are 90 degree bends, change in pipe diameter or materials. Gray water is already a solution of sorts which lowers freezing temp so unless the cold is brutal, it will probably be OK, as will septic. What's at risk is fresh water, flush water, shower water, so pack the spaces around those in the crawl spaces with soft foam, or - if on the cheap - use those air pillows that come as packing material. On the fly, even crumpled newspaper will work, but OK temporarily since it's a fire hazard. Air pillows are squishy-pliable with negligible weight. I pulled out the wet pink insulation around the cabin pipes and packed air pillows in there instead for pipe protection. Not only solved the wall draft freezing my kitchen sink pipes, it's easier to work with because it doesn't absorb water and doesn't get moldy or gloppy. The goal is to stop drafts blowing over pipes or tanks. Alternatively, and this works in chicken water dispensers - even use a solar aquarium bubbler ~ $20-30 depending on battery storage of solar energy ~ to keep water moving just enough so it doesn't ice over. When seed crystals form, the rest of freezing goes pretty quickly, and if the ice dam is pushing against a closed valve like a faucet, it can create pressures upward of 10,000 psi, enough to split copper. A solar bubbler that shuts off when the sun goes down doesn't really help, but one with battery conservation of excess solar is good.
Save the Mr.Buddy for when you're using the rest of the space.
@dandeleona4760 Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts-the ideas you've added are functional and productive!
Cocoons-this is an interesting concept that very few people would consider, but when you detail it the way you did it makes sense. I'm sure many people could benefit from using that technique.
Headwear-a simple but very effective practice that we use continually but forgot to mention in the video-thanks for reminding everyone.
Heating only the space you need to heat is another productive idea. We had used this idea in the past with good results. Somewhere in the last couple of years we drifted away from using it-so your reminder will help get us back on track with it!
How long is your longest boondock session?
Thanks for the insight on how you guys' boondock. We've been FT for the last 4 years in a 35ft, 99 National Tropical class A. We boondock most of the time and are doing so now. We use the smaller Mr. Heater Buddy which we plumbed into our 24-gallon propane tank. We also have an Extend-a-Stay kit which enables us to use a 20 lb portable tank too. We carry a spare Mr. Buddy so we can take one apart and clean it while using the other. It also allows us to double the BTU output from 4,000/9,000 to 8,000/18,000 btus if it gets really cold, using the small, 1lb tanks when this is rarely needed. I can't remember the last time we built a fire other than with charcoals for a little BBQ.
We added a 620w liftable solar array on the side of our MH, over our bedroom window, which serves as a nice awning too. It practically lifts itself to the desired angle with a couple gas struts and it's easy to clean with a windshield squeegee, standing safely on the ground. By mounting our current solar array on the side of our MH, we left the roof free to rack a large array on the roof, which we're planning on doing early next year. Last January we replaced our 2 aging GC-2 golf cart batteries with a custom built 560ah of LiFePo-4 battery, made with 8, 280ah prismatic cells. It has really been a game changer for us. We chose a Heltec 350amp BMS, to start the onboard 5,500watt generator in our motorhome, (which we haven't run in about 3 months) along with a 5a active balancer to keep all the cells synched up. We built our 12v battery with grade "A" LiFePo-4 prismatic cells having a 6,000-cycle manufacturer projected life at 100% DOD. This means that if we cycled them 100% every single day, 365 days a year, they would last over 16 years! So they're obviously going to wear out from age before they wear out from cycling as we only use 15-20% of their capacity daily, giving us enough reserve capacity for about a week of bad weather before we have to run our generator for charging. We even have enough power to run an electric blanket at night when needed - truly a luxury. It cost us less than $1,500 to build this 560ah battery, including the high amp BMS and active balancer. We chose these cells because they fit perfectly under the steps of our motorhome where our old pair of GC-2 golf cart batteries used to reside, saving 35lbs while having over 5 times the energy storage capacity. We've found our Lithiums charge much faster than our old lead acid batteries did and are typically full before 2:00 PM. This first phase, including our 620w liftable solar array, wiring, breakers, a new Progressive Dynamics 80a Li compatible converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy PSW inverter (to run our TV, PC, ice maker, etc.), an Epever 50a MPPT charge controller for our solar panels, a Lnex battery monitor/shunt, and a Renogy battery to battery charger (to protect the alternator) cost us around $3,600.
Take care, we hope to see you down the road!
Awesome comments, thanks for taking the time to share them. We're always learning new things from others like you. For example, I didn't know that cleaning a Mr Heater was even a thing and now I will look into it because of your comment. Also the term "solar array" is not something used in our chosen geographical region of boondocking, so that was a new to me concept, which I can see the value in. My guess is that you are situated further south than us? We are generally in central/northern Canada. Solar hours/strength are significantly diminished here in the spring/fall seasons.
Again, thank you for adding your upgrades in these comments. I hadn't heard of many of them so I will have a bunch of research to do.
@@PlanFree We are happy to help. We use a filter on our Mr. Heater and replace it twice a year but find that oil still accumulates in the heater's gas lines causing the pilot flame to get smaller and the heater to produce a slight roaring sound as it runs. If yours starts showing these symptoms the gas lines need cleaning. We use Q-tips, pipe cleaners and rubbing alcohol to remove the oil from the lines. MAF cleaner found at auto parts stores works to, but you must be outside to avoid the harmful vapors if MAF cleaner is used.
A solar array is 2 or more panels fastened together on a common plane, typically so that they can be angled to face the sun, or at least lifted to the optimal angle to harvest more energy based on latitude and month - which is what we do. You can increase the amount of energy they harvest by 30% or more by doing this, especially in the winter. The further north you live the more you will benefit from being able to angle your panels to better follow the sun's arc across the sky.
I am boondocking on Lake Mead, NV just outside of Las Vegas now, Oct. 1st. I use this website to determine the optimal angle for my array, which is 46 degrees from vertical here now. www.solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-angle-calculator.html If I were in Saskatoon, CN, the correct angle would be 30 degrees from vertical this month and only 22 degrees from vertical next month and only 14 degrees in December. Lifting a flat, horizontal array to an almost vertical 14 degrees in December in CN will about triple their solar production.
Later this month we will be boondocking near Yuma, AZ by the MX border for the winter where it's nice and warm. There will be lots of Canadian snowbirds there as well, fleeing the harsh northern weather for our snow bare land. Last year we wintered over near Brownsville, TX. I don't think I even put on a sweater all winter.
@@SuperSushidog Thank you for more excellent info! Curious; are you using propane to fuel your Mr .Heater or another fuel source?
@@PlanFree I use propane from my ASME tank attached to my MH, but rubber propane lines used to carry high pressure propane bleed oil from the rubber into the gas which will contaminate a Mr. Heater Buddy heater. The Big Buddy has a port for a low-pressure propane line to attach, so it doesn't share this problem with its little brother.
I boondocked for around 6 weeks total this summer. I have 4350 watts solar, 6000 watt inverter, and 15,360 battery storage. The solar makes boondocking a breeze. for heat I use a portable electric heater, or the heat pumps on the AC units.
Wow! Those are big numbers when compared to our set up-sounds luxurious!
@PlanFree one of the most successful projects I've ever done. I've had it almost 2 years now, and maybe 15,000 miles down the roads, it's held out well, except for extreme temps in Las Vegas, where it took out 1 battery.
seems like a diesel heater would be a good idea for that and an electric blanket powered by a solar power generator. thanks for sharing have fun
Thanks for watching and adding your comments. You've given us two new ideas to loom into!🥂
How long is your longest boondock?
Not a boondoggler but stopped by to say hello Hi there
@JuanMoreno-wo5yb We appreciate you dropping by, always great to hear from you!🥂
For 6 months of boondocking you didn't discuss other things. for instance, toilet, how is that done? do you use the black tank in your motorhome, a compost toilet, or, the woods. Also water, where do you source your water, and store it. We have a hundred gallon fresh water, 60 gal gray tank and 40 gal black tank. We found that we had to go to a dump station to dump and get fresh water every 2 weeks.
You will enjoy our FULL VERSION Boondock longer video; th-cam.com/video/Zs5dMqD9Fuc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Xmj5rQkJRfDrXBTp
We discuss water/tank management, food, lights and MORE!
Thank you for watching and commenting. What is your longest Boondock session so far?
The typical BLM and FS limit is around 2 weeks anyway, so there's no need to go longer than 2 weeks between dump station/freshwater fills. We boondock for many months at a time, but still need to fill and dump every 2 weeks too. Our fresh tank is only 95 gallons, so we carry an extra 15 gallons in our toad to make the full 2-week limit. If it's really hot and we go through more than 110 gallons we simply take our toad to town to get another 15 gallons. We most often get fresh water when we dump. Many Interstate rest areas have free dump stations. Some small towns have free, RV dump at their sewer plants or fairgrounds, City Parks, Visitor centers, Chambers of Commerce and many Maverick and other gas stations offer free dump and fill when you fuel your MH or TV. I recently dumped and filled for free at the Camping World in St. George, UT. Cabela’s and Bass Pro Shops often have free dump stations too. Campendium is a good source for dump/fill stations as is rvdumpsites.net .
In a couple weeks we will be at the LTVAs around Quartzsite, AZ and Imperial Dam, CA. Their 7-month $180 seasonal permit allows unlimited dump and fill as well as trash disposal - and of course a safe, level place to spend the winter. If you have an America the Beautiful NP permit you can get free entry into national parks which allow you to use their campground dump stations and water spigots free of charge, even if you're not staying there. We've done this at the Grand Canyon NP, Yellowstone and most recently the Lake Mead Recreational Area (where we are boondocking now at Government Wash) which has 2 CGs where you can dump and fill for free. Some FS CGs charge a small fee ($5-$10) for dump and fill. But if they are conveniently located, I'd rather pay the small fee than drive 15-20 miles out of my way burning not only a couple gallons gas but my time too. My last option is commercial RV parks, where I've paid up to $20 to dump and fill when I had no other choice.
@@SuperSushidog Yes that is true if you're only boondocking on BLM/Crown land. In our scenario we have several arrangements to stay as long as we like on private raw land and so there is most definitely a need to boondock much longer than 2 weeks before having to pack up and move. For us that is far too frequent.
4:11 Yes! In Australia we used hot water bottles all the time, but I never see Canadians using them! I’ve been meaning to look at buying one for the colder weather ahead of us. Very cool video to see how you guys do it ( I totally thought when we talked to you on the road that you were in a tent by those loud folk. So yes, we were camping on the same side after all 🤦🏼♂️)
Hot water bottles are so underrated right? Inexpensive to buy, they last a longtime and they are cheap/free to recharge when using a pot of water heated on the fire. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Got any more fishing adventures planned this year?
@@PlanFree 100%. They are on my list to buy! Do you have an affiliate link?
You bet! I’m heading to the coast for a week of salmon and sturgeon fishing, can’t wait!
@@avid.venture Right on, enjoy the coast-always a great time!
Hot Water Bottle (the ones we use)
amzn.to/3ROX2Qr