Mike, I tend to agree with you but an experience this weekend has me questioning. I went to another AGCO dealer (not my regular dealer)for supplies just because I was in the area. Turns out, they don't even sell Permatran except in 1 qt bottles. Totally worthless. Try tried to sell me on some alternate UDT brand. They also pulled a fast one on me and gave me the old GC2xxx oil filter which physically fits a GC1723 but isn't up to filtering capacity vs the newer Iseki filters as required for the GC17xx series. I even handed them a piece of paper with a request for exact AGCO Iseki part numbers. So here we are. Who can we trust anymore for any reliable and consistent service. Seems to be a problem across the board in this world. It use to be that you could pay a little more for the best. Now it seems you can pay a little more and maybe feel better but not necessarily get a better product for your money.
My Kioti dealer is also a NAPA dealer. When they did my 50-hour service, they used NAPA oils. They don't even carry the Kioti brands. The only Kioti brand filter I use, is the hydraulic (not available from Wix/NAPA).
I own a MF GC1720TLB. I only use manufacturer oils and filters. I have been a mechanic most of my life. I served 24 years in the USAF as an aircraft mechanic and I learned in the military there is nothing better than parts and fluids from the people that make the equipment. My equipment has always gone back to the dealership I purchased it from for service. I have a great relationship with the dealership. I don't know if it's just my equipment, but my tractor always gets washed when they are done with it.
I have 3 Kubota products, a ZD 326, a RTV 1120 and a L3830HST. All have only used Kubota SuperUDT2 hydraulic oil and OEM filters. The engines have Rotella T6 full synthetic motor oil but OEM filters. Never had any issues
OEM during the warranty period, to mfg's spec after. I have the unusual perspective of having a friend who manufactures filters for obsolete JD equipment. Just him and his son, part time. Another poster said it best: All of these manufacturers contract and private label their fluids, filters and everything else. You might not be able to get an engine from the original supplier, but you most certainly get oil, hydraulic fluid and filters from them, and a lot of other folks too!
I use OEM filters. But I use Rotella T6 engine oil and aftermarket hydraulic oil. The last two tractors I bought, even the dealer uses the aftermarket hydraulic oil.
Yes I have a story. I purchased a 2590 Case new. I modified it somewhat after warrenty. Added duals, ballist, pyrometer, water filter, lengthed wheel base etc. I made a super tractor! About 1700 hours a weak bearing in the transmission let go. I had Case dealer take to shop and requested when opened up to call, I wanted to observe problem. They did as my request. super nice mechanic explained that I had requested more than tractor designed. I understood. he said to me that I deserved an education. Parked beside mine was a 2390 that had been opened for another problem. Similiar tractors and age and hours close. He said you know what oil you are using and change frequency. Grab a white shop towel and rub inside the housing on both tractors. Your thoughts. mine was black with soot and the other was clean. Then stated he didn't blame the wrong fluid but my own ideas. I do know the aftermarket oil after some time caused JD brakes to chatter. My oil was a Standard Oil brand.
Something like this would take good looking each of the SAE specs. And making a good choice. While under factory warranty it is wise to have the selling dealer do a good spring service.
Last year i drove an hour to my Yanmar dealer to buy OEM hydraulic oil for my mini excavator and was sold Hyundai brand. For my new TYM tractor I'll certainly use OEM filters, but use a name brand oil that meets all TYM's specs.
I have been watching your channel over 2 years and finally bought a new Kioti CX2510, im so happy. Put 5.2 hours on it bushhogging today. I was successful, Thankfully to you..
While not a tractor, Im looking at my manuals for my new Z-turn mower. The manufacturer of the mower states the oil changes must be changed every 100 hours (following first 8 hour change). The engine manufacturer manual states similar except they give you 25 hours till first and then the typical 100 hour intervals. They engine manufacture also has a synthetic oil change kit with a higher grade filter and states if used, it changes the intervals to 300 hours. Ive asked the mower manufacturer and they stated they have their own oils and filters and that the 100 hour interval should be maintained or possibly lose warranty coverage but when asked if the engine failed, they stated that would be decided by the engine manufacturer. Sometimes even trying to follow the manual(s) can be as clear as mud... My tractor from the same manufacturer as my Z-turn is a rebranded Branson so Im sure I will have yet two different choices of fluids. Just different colored bottles and filter. Thanks for the videos
i made a directional wifi antenna that could reach 4 houses away and use the open wifi that i had been given permission to use, but had been limited to lingering out in front of that house holding a laptop. in hindsight, i'd have saved many hours of tedious snipping and soldering, had i just bought a cheap antenna on amazon to serve the same purpose.
Make sure they oil you buy meets the manufactures specifications, if your under a warranty it is wise to have the dealer do it only, if no warranty make what you purchase a oil that meets all the specs required by the manufacture. I run delo 400 in all my tractors for engine oil, filters I do get from the the dealer, hydrualic fluid, good hydrualic fluid is expensive period, some are less expensive then other but if you have a powershift or hydro stat transmission make sure the fluid you get meets all the requirements, NAPA is a good source for the correct type of fluid required for tractors but they are not much cheaper than the dealer for the one that says kubota on the bucket
I use whatever engine oil meets spec. I use OEM hydraulic fluid and OEM filters. I watched a video from messics concerning filters and determined oem filters are best.
thanks for the video good advice I have seen aftermarket oil filters fail so I'm not taking a chance with my tractor I'm buying factory name brand oil and filters
Mike you have some really good content and catchy titles. This is the very thing I have been thinking about lately as I just went past 50 hours and needed to do the filter changes on my Kioti tractor.
I have manufacturing and product management experience in another industry. I have a Ford 3000 1970 that I use what is specified by the manufacture code since this is an old tractor (Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF) equivalent to Ford/New Holland spec 134D). I perform the maintenance for my dad's JD 1025R 2016 and I use JD branded hydraulic fluid and filters, but the oil, I think I might have used JD brand, but wouldn't hesitate to use a high quality name brand oil. Same for the zero turn, JD filter, but 10W/30 engine oil.
I've got a John Deere 310d backhoe and i only use John Deere oil, hy-gard in the trans and hydraulic system and plus 50 in the engine, also use John Deere grease. For filters I use Baldwin/car quest filters because there made in USA and most of the John Deere filters for my machine are Donaldson filters and are made in Mexico. I got my backhoe used with 10,000 hours but I know the history of it. And I know they were using napa tractor/hydraulic oil in it. When I got the machine the trans was shifting very rough, grinding into second gear and hard to shift. Changed the trans oil with John Deere hy-gard and it smoothed everything right up, shifting way better now.
I don’t have a tractor (yet) but my lawn equipment (Hustler) I go to the dealer and buy my filters from them I use the special synthetic oil they recommend. Why? That’s one of the few high dollar toys I own. I feel good about my machine and 20 years later it still cranks usually on the first start, I use the factory blades as well.
I make sure whatever I use meets the tractor manufacturer requirements. Most of the time the oil I use is of a higher rating than the manufacturer requirements, all those letters and numbers on the oil bottles. Not an advertisement for Amsoil but all their products are above the manufacturer minimum requirements but more expensive. You know the saying “pay me now or pay me later.
Ask Tractor Mike,Blackstone Labs oil analysis can compare oils like you mentioned in this video. I've sent my oil samples off for analysis from them for several years. Reach out to them, they have a YR channel also. I would love to see a video with you asking the questions related to tractor oils and hydrolic fluids.
Well, my vehicles under warranty get dealer serviced, so factory oil & filters. I buy the maintenance plan with the vehicle and call it good. My tractor I maintain myself with factory filters and the fluids my dealer uses, in this case Rotella T6 in the engine and Can Am hydraulic fluid in the transmission & hydraulics. I keep all my receipts in case there’s a problem, but none so far. My out of warranty vehicles get Valvoline or Ford semi-syn oil and Fram filters and both have over 200k miles with zero problems. And just to throw it out there I’ve been using Valvoline conventional and semi-syn Max Life (when it came out) and Fram filters since the mid 1970’s and have never had a single oil or filter related problem in dozens of vehicles across hundreds of thousands of miles. And I’ve never missed a single night’s sleep, either. Great video Mike, keep up the fantastic work. 👍
Well my tractor is a 1985 Ford 2110. I buy my Hydronic Oil from tractor supply. It matches the manufacturer's specs... and as old as it is there ain't no warranty on it. I haven't had any issues yet. BTW.... I don't put the cheep 303 oil in anything but my dumptruck which leaks a bit.
I agree with you completely Mike. I am a Field Service Manager for an equipment manufacturer and occasionally have to make a decision as to whether a defect that appears to be lubrication related is covered under warranty or not. If I see that they use our recommended filters and they use oils or greases that meet our specifications, and they can show me documentation that the servicing has been done at the recommended intervals, then they usually have a pleasant warranty claim. I figure that if they are doing what we recommend when we recommend it, then they have met their responsibility in that regard.
Hey Mike, I just replaced the hydraulic oil/transmission, and crankcase oil in my 2010 JD compact tractor(490 hours) which is out of warranty. I used the OEM filters, and Shell Rotella(for diesel engines) in the crankcase, and Tractor Supply premium hydraulic/transmission fluid. I believe if you change the fluids and filters per the manufacturer's schedule it won't make any difference which fluids you use. In my JD manual it specifies what they recommend, but they also say you can use a different fluid as long as it meets the JD standard which they also specify. So far so good and I haven't lost any sleep over it. Mike, love channel and keep up the good work. You really give good advice for the weekend / hobby farmer like me. Sincerely, Bruce (Larkspur, Colorado) and former Drury College graduate 1982 and love Springfield Missouri
I have a Kubota L 3830. I called a friend that had a Gulf oil dealership for oil at a oil change time after warranty expired. He told me they cannot get the additives that is in the Kubota oil. He recommended Kubota oil. I, am tight with my money, but agree a hundred dollars is minor against the cost of a tractor.
For LS tractors, manual recommends CS GalTec brand in their manual. It is from South Korea and it’s products are not sold in USA. The back door way to “cheat “ is to buy Chevron branded fluids and grease if possible……Chevron owns 50% of GS GalTec. Some brands if I recall use chemical markers to see if customer used their brand or some one else’s fluids. It helps when honoring or denying warranty claims. So I find either fluid with owners chemical standards as stated in manual, or Chevron when possible as they own 50% of South Korean refinery.
I have only used John Deere oils and filters in my tractor with no failures. Where as I’ve used after market oil’s and filters in my Ford pickup which has over 300,000 miles with out a failure.
Looks like I am a year late into this conversation. Nevertheless, I have to comnent cuz no one is mentioning a important variable. Where you live. I live in triple digits tempts from June to beginning of Oct. The remaining months are usually 60's - 90's °F here in deep South Texas. The real kicker is 30 - 40 mph winds. Since I am in rural area, we get lots of dust from fields all around us, plus Saharan dust (yes, you heard right!) & smoke from Mexico. It is down right stupid to spend top dollar on JDeere Plus-50 ii when I am most likely getting the same oil & additives from a diesel oil @ my local Walmart when I am dumping oil out anyway every 100 hrs due to dusty climate here. My undergraduate degree was in Marketing. So I do salute JD for their exceptional Marketing team!
We've gone both ways my minneapolis-moline m670 usually leaked it out so much that we just put the cheap oil in and I haven't had any problems with it. In our International 1086 we ran case ih filters but different engine oil. But for hytran we always use case IH expensive stuff because it leaked less.
I just the dealer stuff. Because it is only a few dollars extra and it keeps my dealer alive - very hard to get warranty/support if there is no one there because they went broke. I have a number of different oils at home as the dealer changes suppliers. Also the warehouse for the OEM filter manufacturer is between me and the dealer so if I really wanted to buy it a bit cheaper it is totally possible.
Hey Mike, As for John Deere, in the owners manual, for the 3025e, it list their brand or it needs to meet their Specification, so I search and see what I can find, if I have to go to John Deere to get it then that's what I'll do. But yes I do look for the cheaper but it has the specifications that they require.
Thank you for talking about this. For me personally. In my 1978 (343 Detroit Diesel) the Local old timer,who has been working on the old Jimmy's ( two strokes) told me always Run Detroit Diesel Corporation two stroke (40 Wt.) I use DELO 100 SEA 40. Meets original Warranty Requirements for ALL Diesel engines specifying SEA 40. On a side note this young very loud know it all Diesel Mac. Was in the parts Department. When I was asking about ( Detroit 92 series) Engine oil requirements. He had to jump into conversation. Loudly said all Detroit's you put in (15/40 Wt.) I have never had an issue with that old girl running straight (40Wt) in her.
No, Mike. I don’t use New Holland filters and lube. Shell Rotella and Wix filters. They’re about half what CNH charges, and all Shell products are very high quality. Using that brand since 2012. As for getting the tractor serviced at the dealer…. He’s 26 miles away and I have no trailer. One of their Mechanics once told me that CNH buys filters from various manufacturers to their specs with their CNH brand on them. Basically, they’re sourced from vendors who bid on the contract.
I'm not sure I agree, that the OEMs oil is better than other better known brands. I think it is more important to choose a quality manufacturer of oil products and ensure the particular one chosen meets all of the tractor manufacturers specs. Similar to vehicles I believe. The specs, temperature ratings, etc. are likely most important. That being said, the way one is brought up and what lets you sleep well at night also carry some weight. Just my 2 cents and thanks for the video.
It’s more important that you do the maintenance than what brand you do it with. Also if you have a very old Kubota like one I own and it develops 3 point issues. Dump the UDT fluid and put 80w-90 in that dude like it came with. As far as filters Kubotas are rebranded and their engine oil is one of four common diesel oils. Unless their older. If they are they might only be SAE 30 wt.
While under warranty, I will use manufacturer recommended products just to avoid warranty claim issues. After the warranty, I look at it like this, when was the recommended fluid formulated? If you have a 10 year old vehicle and the fluid was developed and formulated 10 years ago, is there newer fluids possibly formulated to a higher standard than the original? Filters with better designs and components? Tires with better tread design and longer lasting rubber. That's how I service my vehicles and when my 1 year old tractor goes out of warranty, I will do the same with it.
Just Recently Purchased a 20 year old MF. I done a Full Service with all OEM Products with Full Intention of going with Aftermarket Products Next Time. My Idea was to go with all OEM Products at First to make sure everything was at the Level Recommended (and I have no idea of the History of the Tractor or Last Time it was Serviced) then spend a little more time looking at the aftermarket Products. Micron Count, Viscosity, Detergents Used, Etc. I believe you can always use "A" aftermarket Product, but not all of them are the same. We always have to do our research.
i have a nh tc30 and its cold here and i plow with it and mow, the rotella in the engine and premium tsc hyd oil moakes it run quiter and smoother especially in the cold than what was in it, and its a 10 gal rear so the oem nh is about 200 more now and i feel if you get the good stuff from tsc and rotella its better
Hi Mike. I AM a litle farmer from argentina. I try to Buy the fluids and filters available bit price is important too.your idea on taking diferent brands to a lab test is brilliant.
I'm in a whirlwind here when it comes to this subject. My buddy WT has a 2 John Deere subcompact tractors, and he uses only John Deere fluids and filters. The only tractor I own is a 1979 Power King economy tractor that was powered by a kohler k321 14hp gas engine, but I'm currently in the process of replacing the engine with Kubota D600 3 cylinder diesel engine from a Kubota g5200 diesel mower. I'm not sure, how to go about choosing the proper fluids for the D600. I'm most likely going to use Shell Rotella 15w40 with factory Kubota filters. I'm not sure if this is the best decision though.
Mike, I have an old 1949 AC WD and a 2018 Massey Ferguson. I am retired. No more farming here. I just brush hog, move dirt and gravel and dig stumps or haul firewood. When I hit my 50 hour on the MF, I did go back to the dealer for fluids and filters. But since then I have been going to carquest for filters and Tractor Supply for fluids. My dealer told me I would not be invalidating any warranty or harming the equipment. In fact, they gave me the part numbers for the filters and fluids at each place. They told me the after market brands, if they are the correct part numbers, meet the requirements of the manufacturer. In some cases they said some of the filters are even better. On a side not, my MF experienced a hydraulic fluid leak at the joystick splitter valve. It was caused by failure of the o-rings which is usually the case. I went back to my dealer 3 times to buy the o-rings because after all it is under warranty until this December. Well the 3 replacement set failed back in June after only a month. This time, I took the fourth set of o-rings which were never used to my local hardware store and bought the same size and installed them. So far, no leaks or blow outs. The o-rings from my local hardware store were 25% of the cost of the dealer o-rings. My local hardware store is 8 miles away, the dealer is 32 miles. The autoparts store is 8 miles and TSC is 20 miles. Just because your retired doesn't mean ya have plenty of time to kill. I don't like going anywhere and if I can choose a 20 mile drive over 32, well I choose 20. Not to mention my truck only gets about 15mpg and we all see what the price of fuel is these days. I am in NE Kansas.
Mfgr oils and filers, mainly because my dealer said the warranty is invalid if I use anything else. Dealer tried to tell me the maintenance had to be performed by them to keep warranty valid, but they caved when I said I’d buy supplies from them.
Messicks had some excellent filter videos oil is a spec you meet or exceed that spec and your fine oem oil is always excessively priced for me it's oem equipment filters and rotella t6 or t4 with zero failures I'm a mechanic of 22 years and this is what I do and recommend on equipment, send your oil to Blackstone for testing very good company
Mike, I’ve got a Kubota 3130 made in 2006. I’ve also have a ZD1211 I bought new about a year and half ago, I put any diesel oil and auto Zone filters in the tractor and only Kubota fluids and filters in the mower. Knock on (wood) no problem with either.
I so ewhat agree. If any piece of equipment is under warranty, I use what the manufacturer reccomends. As far as filters and fluids go, I don't believe ant tractor or equipment manufacturer makes their own petroleum products or filters. I may be wrong here (it's happened many times), but I think they use standards already set by mechanical and chemical engineers. Once it's out of warranty, if an aftermarket product meets the manufacturers requirements, I'll use it.
I have an 11 year old JD 4520 with just over 2200 hours. For the cost difference and piece of mind I have always used OEM oils and filters. This is my fifth tractor and I've never had a failure. Always enjoy your videos.
Just did the 400 hr service on my Kioti CK 3510SE, I have always used Kioti filters, when it comes to hydraulic oil and diesel oil I use what Kioti lists as a compatible oil. I just put in Shell Spirax hydraulic fluid and Shell Rotunda diesel oil. I have used Shell since the tractor was new, it's now 4 years old and have never had a problem using Shell fluids and Kioti factory filters. That said I wouldn't buy a non brand name hydraulic or engine oil. Yes it is expensive to change hydraulic fluids and filters. Probably around $250 by the time I am finished.
Bought my McCormick new. Before my 50 hours were up the dealer no longer represented Mccormick. When I went back to get oil from the dealer they did not have the name brand oil recommended by the manufacturer. The dealer said it doesn't matter as long as it meets the specs. IDK.
Mike, Yes, I use Kubota filters and all fluids. My thought is that why own a $35,000 tractor and try to save $100 on cheaper oil and filters. If I can’t afford to maintain it, maybe I should not have bought it. Just my 2 cents.
I've been asking this question about hydraulic oil for a long time. It didn't make much difference when I had an old Ford 8N but my newish New Holland with a hydrostatic drive trans. I want to put in the right stuff. NH dealers sell their branded oils in two flavors one for tractors with manual trans and another for hydrostatic tractors. If I knew the exact specs I'd buy cheaper so I don't know so I pay more
thank you for the trouble you go to, to give sound advice, i have a Branson tractor my dealer told me to use tractor supply premium hyd. oil, and 85w-140w gear oil, though manual calls for 90w. and in implements also. I use Branson filters. and i use synthetic diesel motor oil with the proper weight. if this is a mistake please tell me?
I have suggested this kinda test info about these different brands of them to Project Farm to find out what ones are good and not a couple weeks ago on one of his videos
There is no question that the tractor manufacturers do not make their own lubricants, as you have said. However, most manufacturers do specify minimum standards and/or additives in their branded lubricants they source from their suppliers. If you have invested tens of thousands of dollars in a new or relatively new tractor, it only seems sensible to run the manufacturer’s lubricants.
As a retired diesel mechanic and part time farmer I have been using Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac 15W 40 in everything I own since the late 70s and that included a push mower with a 3 1/2 hp Briggs and Stratton which lasted 24 years. And Mike NAPA sell a oil analysis kit that is I believe is postage paid and you will get a report on the oil you drained. Oh yes NAPA GOLD FILTERS are one of the highest rated on the market. Shell and Mobile both make hydraulic oils Oh on my farm I had three diesel and one gas tractors.
I have a question. My L3830 4WD Hydrostatic would hold going down my slopes, by letting control peddle go to neutral, for the first several years. Now about halfway down it starts free wheeling. I have checked the Hydraulic oil level. But I still have the problem. While Ile I have had this for 13 years, great tractor, Have I missed not adjusting a clutch for wear Or is the problem in another area. P.. S. I watched your slope cutting video. The "cruise control lever" and the High-Med- Low lever are on the left side of the seat, same color handle, size and height. I started down a hill on my first cut reached to pull the cruise control lever back to stop and go to a lower gear and puled the other lever from Med range to neutral. That was a fun 150 foot ride.
I'm a sales guy more than a service guy, so I'm really not a great source of information about why the hydro would allow the tractor to free wheel, but I would think that would be an internal leak allowing oil to flow through the system from the pressure of gravity pushing the machine down the hill. I don't know if it'll cause other problems but if it causes a safety issue it would be wise to have it looked at. I think a dealer is going to want to replace the hydro to fix the problem and that could be a bit expensive.
Mike, now that McD knows your using their internet, the price of your coffee might go up! Appreciate your channel. Loving the Pat’s Quick Change Hitch I purchased through your store. Works great on my 1025r and not as restrictive as “the other” quick hitches.
McD hates me because I only buy off the dollar menu (which keeps getting smaller). They're struggling to keep their doors open because people like me use their internet and then don't feel obligated to buy anything. I guess it's because when the kids were little we spent enough with them to help them build a new store here. Thanks for your business on Pat's Easy Change...that is a great product!
John Deere 1025R owner here. Yes, I use the manufactures fluids and filters. In my opinion, the cost savings comes from me doing it, at home, at my convenience.
Mike this won't help your survey but I buy all my oils from Rural King and get a 5% didcount because I use their store card for my late 50"s JI Case 300B. I'm pretty sure I won't have any warranty issues with it. However this will help your comment count.
I believe in eliminating excuses. I just took my new Kubota L3560 in for its 50 hours maintenance. Cost $350 and to me it is worth the piece of mind. Should that tractor fail from anything but neglect I will be able to reduce my liability by proving they used the proper product and it was maintained by a manufacturer trained mechanic. $350 to maintain a $30,000 investment is an easy choice for me. Thanks for another great video Mike. If you think a Ruth Chris steak and a McDonald's cheese burger are they same because they both come from a cow...well good luck.
No failures and I use different quality oils on 5 different tractors (38 - 75 hp ) over 40 yrs.....except on my Ford f250 and the dealer swears I need to use their oil...so I do.
Be honest if you read the back of the quart or gallon it will tell you who manufactures the oil/filter.i personally use a better filter. I've had bad luck with OEM filters, so now I pay more for a better filter.i still use OEM oil.
ONLY during warranty period then that expensive stuff is over. Been doing it this way for many years...Harleys, ATVs, Cars, Trucks, Tractors and being from Minnesota... many many boats too.
Well, I'm from the old school to (77) BUT, I will use the filters for my Tractors and backhoe's with the book specks . I have been using the hydraulic oil for Tractor supply's, it is the same.. Haven't had any trouble in years with the oil types, Filters cost lots of $$$$$ but it cleans the Hyd fluid, It's just me, But the prices have gone through the roof. See Ya Texas
Definitely agree with OEM on filters and don't fully disagree with fluids, but if a motor oil or hydraulic oil says it meets OEM specs and it is 1/2 the cost of OEM fluid, I would buy it. The same goes for OEM grease. I use greases that meet the spec. in my owner's manual but are not OEM, but my dealer is not nearly as close as about a dozen automotive shops that have the proper spec. greases and that is also a consideration in cost If it is new and under warranty equipment, the dealer will be getting my money as a cushion to make sure the fluids are changed within the recommendations and then, if a failure occurs, I will have someone other than the guy in the mirror to blame. I love DIY, but that is my one exception.
Filters, yes because I haven’t been able to cross reference them yet. Oil, no. I use better than manufacturers oil. So at the end of the day it cost me $100 or more to use what I use. But to me it’s worth it to have what I consider the best protection in something that makes me money.
I've only had my Kubota BX2680 for a couple months, but I will be using Kubota filters and oil...plus it gives me an excuse to go to the dealership LOL.
I'm swapping all the fluids from my tractor to a full synthetic oil. Specifically AMSOIL, I'd be curious if you had any experience with these oils. I've ran amsoil in all my vehicles with great experience with the brand.
Tractor, truck, not automotive companies make their own filters, oils, batteries, etc! Wix filters are the best filter on the market! Oils always check the API rating.
My personally philosophy with just about anything is buy the best you can afford. You're probably better off doing an oil change with less expensive supplies than not doing one at all.
I use Kubota filters but the oil I got from my Kubota dealership was not Kubota brand. They said it was too expensive and that they don’t stock it. There oil is still a lot more than the oil in the farm stores. I wasn’t happy that I was paying a premium price for none Kubota oil. Not sure what I’m going to do next time.
Buy an OEM filter band the other you are considering. Cut the shell off and compare the elements and relief valves. Buy the actual better filter to use on the tractor. This really does matter. The filters do not have the standardization you might expect. A "direct replacement" can be very different inside the shell. Some OEM filters are much better than Fram. Some are nowhere near as good ... Fram is a mediocre filter. It's OK and won't void warranty, but I wouldn't use them after having cut a few open. I wish we still used the filters where you change the element and actually get to see the filter media. My dealer supplies one of the off brand hydraulic fluids. It's not the cheapest, but it's far cheaper than OEM brand and the dealer recommends it. It's appx 13 gallons to do a hydraulic fluid change and about 2 gallons of engine oil. And 3.5 quarts of front differential oil.(For my tractor)
I have a 2021 Massey Ferguson GC1725M. I use all the manufacturers oil and filters except in the engine. There I have switched to Amsoil signature series diesel oil. It is a high end expensive oil. It has exceptional ratings. What do you think?
Mike, I tend to agree with you but an experience this weekend has me questioning. I went to another AGCO dealer (not my regular dealer)for supplies just because I was in the area. Turns out, they don't even sell Permatran except in 1 qt bottles. Totally worthless. Try tried to sell me on some alternate UDT brand. They also pulled a fast one on me and gave me the old GC2xxx oil filter which physically fits a GC1723 but isn't up to filtering capacity vs the newer Iseki filters as required for the GC17xx series. I even handed them a piece of paper with a request for exact AGCO Iseki part numbers. So here we are. Who can we trust anymore for any reliable and consistent service. Seems to be a problem across the board in this world. It use to be that you could pay a little more for the best. Now it seems you can pay a little more and maybe feel better but not necessarily get a better product for your money.
My Kioti dealer is also a NAPA dealer. When they did my 50-hour service, they used NAPA oils. They don't even carry the Kioti brands. The only Kioti brand filter I use, is the hydraulic (not available from Wix/NAPA).
I own a MF GC1720TLB. I only use manufacturer oils and filters. I have been a mechanic most of my life. I served 24 years in the USAF as an aircraft mechanic and I learned in the military there is nothing better than parts and fluids from the people that make the equipment. My equipment has always gone back to the dealership I purchased it from for service. I have a great relationship with the dealership. I don't know if it's just my equipment, but my tractor always gets washed when they are done with it.
I have 3 Kubota products, a ZD 326, a RTV 1120 and a L3830HST. All have only used Kubota SuperUDT2 hydraulic oil and OEM filters. The engines have Rotella T6 full synthetic motor oil but OEM filters. Never had any issues
OEM during the warranty period, to mfg's spec after. I have the unusual perspective of having a friend who manufactures filters for obsolete JD equipment. Just him and his son, part time. Another poster said it best: All of these manufacturers contract and private label their fluids, filters and everything else. You might not be able to get an engine from the original supplier, but you most certainly get oil, hydraulic fluid and filters from them, and a lot of other folks too!
I use OEM filters. But I use Rotella T6 engine oil and aftermarket hydraulic oil. The last two tractors I bought, even the dealer uses the aftermarket hydraulic oil.
Yes I have a story. I purchased a 2590 Case new. I modified it somewhat after warrenty. Added duals, ballist, pyrometer, water filter, lengthed wheel base etc. I made a super tractor!
About 1700 hours a weak bearing in the transmission let go. I had Case dealer take to shop and requested when opened up to call, I wanted to observe problem. They did as my request.
super nice mechanic explained that I had requested more than tractor designed. I understood. he said to me that I deserved an education. Parked beside mine was a 2390 that had been opened for another problem. Similiar tractors and age and hours close.
He said you know what oil you are using and change frequency. Grab a white shop towel and rub inside the housing on both tractors. Your thoughts. mine was black with soot and the other was clean. Then stated he didn't blame the wrong fluid but my own ideas. I do know the aftermarket oil after some time caused JD brakes to chatter. My oil was a Standard Oil brand.
Something like this would take good looking each of the SAE specs. And making a good choice. While under factory warranty it is wise to have the selling dealer do a good spring service.
Mike Blackstone does oil analysis, if you send them samples you will see the difference in additive packages.
Last year i drove an hour to my Yanmar dealer to buy OEM hydraulic oil for my mini excavator and was sold Hyundai brand. For my new TYM tractor I'll certainly use OEM filters, but use a name brand oil that meets all TYM's specs.
I have been watching your channel over 2 years and finally bought a new Kioti CX2510, im so happy. Put 5.2 hours on it bushhogging today.
I was successful, Thankfully to you..
Tom, glad to hear, enjoy the new machine!
I agree with you on OEM. In life , you get what you pay for!
While not a tractor, Im looking at my manuals for my new Z-turn mower. The manufacturer of the mower states the oil changes must be changed every 100 hours (following first 8 hour change). The engine manufacturer manual states similar except they give you 25 hours till first and then the typical 100 hour intervals. They engine manufacture also has a synthetic oil change kit with a higher grade filter and states if used, it changes the intervals to 300 hours. Ive asked the mower manufacturer and they stated they have their own oils and filters and that the 100 hour interval should be maintained or possibly lose warranty coverage but when asked if the engine failed, they stated that would be decided by the engine manufacturer. Sometimes even trying to follow the manual(s) can be as clear as mud... My tractor from the same manufacturer as my Z-turn is a rebranded Branson so Im sure I will have yet two different choices of fluids. Just different colored bottles and filter. Thanks for the videos
I use oem fluids and filters on my 4530 Mahindra. I am like you Mike I like that peace of mind.
i made a directional wifi antenna that could reach 4 houses away and use the open wifi that i had been given permission to use, but had been limited to lingering out in front of that house holding a laptop. in hindsight, i'd have saved many hours of tedious snipping and soldering, had i just bought a cheap antenna on amazon to serve the same purpose.
I have used amsoil for a long long time, used it in my mowing business, all mowers and tactors never a lubrication failure
Make sure they oil you buy meets the manufactures specifications, if your under a warranty it is wise to have the dealer do it only, if no warranty make what you purchase a oil that meets all the specs required by the manufacture. I run delo 400 in all my tractors for engine oil, filters I do get from the the dealer, hydrualic fluid, good hydrualic fluid is expensive period, some are less expensive then other but if you have a powershift or hydro stat transmission make sure the fluid you get meets all the requirements, NAPA is a good source for the correct type of fluid required for tractors but they are not much cheaper than the dealer for the one that says kubota on the bucket
I use whatever engine oil meets spec. I use OEM hydraulic fluid and OEM filters. I watched a video from messics concerning filters and determined oem filters are best.
Like you Mike, I’m an old school guy like yourself and use OEM filters & oils.
thanks for the video good advice I have seen aftermarket oil filters fail so I'm not taking a chance with my tractor I'm buying factory name brand oil and filters
Mike you have some really good content and catchy titles.
This is the very thing I have been thinking about lately as I just went past 50 hours and needed to do the filter changes on my Kioti tractor.
I’m a OEM oil guy too Mike and for the same reasons.
I have manufacturing and product management experience in another industry. I have a Ford 3000 1970 that I use what is specified by the manufacture code since this is an old tractor (Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF) equivalent to Ford/New Holland spec 134D). I perform the maintenance for my dad's JD 1025R 2016 and I use JD branded hydraulic fluid and filters, but the oil, I think I might have used JD brand, but wouldn't hesitate to use a high quality name brand oil. Same for the zero turn, JD filter, but 10W/30 engine oil.
I've got a John Deere 310d backhoe and i only use John Deere oil, hy-gard in the trans and hydraulic system and plus 50 in the engine, also use John Deere grease.
For filters I use Baldwin/car quest filters because there made in USA and most of the John Deere filters for my machine are Donaldson filters and are made in Mexico.
I got my backhoe used with 10,000 hours but I know the history of it. And I know they were using napa tractor/hydraulic oil in it. When I got the machine the trans was shifting very rough, grinding into second gear and hard to shift. Changed the trans oil with John Deere hy-gard and it smoothed everything right up, shifting way better now.
Yes I use manufacters filters and oils and try and by them from my local dealer to support them .
I don’t have a tractor (yet) but my lawn equipment (Hustler) I go to the dealer and buy my filters from them I use the special synthetic oil they recommend. Why? That’s one of the few high dollar toys I own. I feel good about my machine and 20 years later it still cranks usually on the first start, I use the factory blades as well.
I make sure whatever I use meets the tractor manufacturer requirements. Most of the time the oil I use is of a higher rating than the manufacturer requirements, all those letters and numbers on the oil bottles. Not an advertisement for Amsoil but all their products are above the manufacturer minimum requirements but more expensive. You know the saying “pay me now or pay me later.
Ask Tractor Mike,Blackstone Labs oil analysis can compare oils like you mentioned in this video. I've sent my oil samples off for analysis from them for several years. Reach out to them, they have a YR channel also. I would love to see a video with you asking the questions related to tractor oils and hydrolic fluids.
Well, my vehicles under warranty get dealer serviced, so factory oil & filters. I buy the maintenance plan with the vehicle and call it good. My tractor I maintain myself with factory filters and the fluids my dealer uses, in this case Rotella T6 in the engine and Can Am hydraulic fluid in the transmission & hydraulics. I keep all my receipts in case there’s a problem, but none so far. My out of warranty vehicles get Valvoline or Ford semi-syn oil and Fram filters and both have over 200k miles with zero problems. And just to throw it out there I’ve been using Valvoline conventional and semi-syn Max Life (when it came out) and Fram filters since the mid 1970’s and have never had a single oil or filter related problem in dozens of vehicles across hundreds of thousands of miles. And I’ve never missed a single night’s sleep, either. Great video Mike, keep up the fantastic work. 👍
Exactly.
The main thing is that you simply change the fluids and filters and DO NOT neglect. All will be just fine.
Well my tractor is a 1985 Ford 2110. I buy my Hydronic Oil from tractor supply. It matches the manufacturer's specs... and as old as it is there ain't no warranty on it. I haven't had any issues yet. BTW.... I don't put the cheep 303 oil in anything but my dumptruck which leaks a bit.
I agree with you completely Mike. I am a Field Service Manager for an equipment manufacturer and occasionally have to make a decision as to whether a defect that appears to be lubrication related is covered under warranty or not. If I see that they use our recommended filters and they use oils or greases that meet our specifications, and they can show me documentation that the servicing has been done at the recommended intervals, then they usually have a pleasant warranty claim. I figure that if they are doing what we recommend when we recommend it, then they have met their responsibility in that regard.
William, can you send me an e-mail at mike@asktractormike.com? I'd like to be able to contact you if you'd be willing to visit.
Hey Mike,
I just replaced the hydraulic oil/transmission, and crankcase oil in my 2010 JD compact tractor(490 hours) which is out of warranty.
I used the OEM filters, and Shell Rotella(for diesel engines) in the crankcase, and Tractor Supply premium hydraulic/transmission fluid. I believe if you change the fluids and filters per the manufacturer's schedule it won't make any difference which fluids you use. In my JD manual it specifies what they recommend, but they also say you can use a different fluid as long as it meets the JD standard which they also specify. So far so good and I haven't lost any sleep over it. Mike, love channel and keep up the good work. You really give good advice for the weekend / hobby farmer like me.
Sincerely,
Bruce (Larkspur, Colorado) and former Drury College graduate 1982 and love Springfield Missouri
I got out of Southwest Missouri State in 1980, our path's may have crossed at Lucy's or Wicker Works :)!
I have a Kubota L 3830. I called a friend that had a Gulf oil dealership for oil at a oil change time after warranty expired. He told me they cannot get the additives that is in the Kubota oil. He recommended Kubota oil. I, am tight with my money, but agree a hundred dollars is minor against the cost of a tractor.
For LS tractors, manual recommends CS GalTec brand in their manual. It is from South Korea and it’s products are not sold in USA. The back door way to “cheat “ is to buy Chevron branded fluids and grease if possible……Chevron owns 50% of GS GalTec. Some brands if I recall use chemical markers to see if customer used their brand or some one else’s fluids. It helps when honoring or denying warranty claims.
So I find either fluid with owners chemical standards as stated in manual, or Chevron when possible as they own 50% of South Korean refinery.
I have only used John Deere oils and filters in my tractor with no failures. Where as I’ve used after market oil’s and filters in my Ford pickup which has over 300,000 miles with out a failure.
Looks like I am a year late into this conversation. Nevertheless, I have to comnent cuz no one is mentioning a important variable. Where you live.
I live in triple digits tempts from June to beginning of Oct. The remaining months are usually 60's - 90's °F here in deep South Texas. The real kicker is 30 - 40 mph winds. Since I am in rural area, we get lots of dust from fields all around us, plus Saharan dust (yes, you heard right!) & smoke from Mexico.
It is down right stupid to spend top dollar on JDeere Plus-50 ii when I am most likely getting the same oil & additives from a diesel oil @ my local Walmart when I am dumping oil out anyway every 100 hrs due to dusty climate here.
My undergraduate degree was in Marketing. So I do salute JD for their exceptional Marketing team!
We've gone both ways my minneapolis-moline m670 usually leaked it out so much that we just put the cheap oil in and I haven't had any problems with it. In our International 1086 we ran case ih filters but different engine oil. But for hytran we always use case IH expensive stuff because it leaked less.
I just the dealer stuff. Because it is only a few dollars extra and it keeps my dealer alive - very hard to get warranty/support if there is no one there because they went broke. I have a number of different oils at home as the dealer changes suppliers. Also the warehouse for the OEM filter manufacturer is between me and the dealer so if I really wanted to buy it a bit cheaper it is totally possible.
Hey Mike, As for John Deere, in the owners manual, for the 3025e, it list their brand or it needs to meet their Specification, so I search and see what I can find, if I have to go to John Deere to get it then that's what I'll do. But yes I do look for the cheaper but it has the specifications that they require.
Thank you for talking about this. For me personally. In my 1978 (343 Detroit Diesel) the Local old timer,who has been working on the old Jimmy's ( two strokes) told me always Run Detroit Diesel Corporation two stroke (40 Wt.)
I use DELO 100 SEA 40. Meets original Warranty Requirements for ALL Diesel engines specifying SEA 40. On a side note this young very loud know it all Diesel Mac. Was in the parts Department. When I was asking about ( Detroit 92 series) Engine oil requirements. He had to jump into conversation. Loudly said all Detroit's you put in (15/40 Wt.) I have never had an issue with that old girl running straight (40Wt) in her.
I was raised the same way. I use the manufacturers OEM equipment and service with there parts.
No, Mike. I don’t use New Holland filters and lube. Shell Rotella and Wix filters. They’re about half what CNH charges, and all Shell products are very high quality. Using that brand since 2012.
As for getting the tractor serviced at the dealer…. He’s 26 miles away and I have no trailer.
One of their Mechanics once told me that CNH buys filters from various manufacturers to their specs with their CNH brand on them. Basically, they’re sourced from vendors who bid on the contract.
I'm not sure I agree, that the OEMs oil is better than other better known brands. I think it is more important to choose a quality manufacturer of oil products and ensure the particular one chosen meets all of the tractor manufacturers specs. Similar to vehicles I believe. The specs, temperature ratings, etc. are likely most important. That being said, the way one is brought up and what lets you sleep well at night also carry some weight. Just my 2 cents and thanks for the video.
I use OEM oil and filters. My 4x4 mower takes 14 quarts of hydraulic fluid. My oldest tractor is 5 years old.
It’s more important that you do the maintenance than what brand you do it with.
Also if you have a very old Kubota like one I own and it develops 3 point issues.
Dump the UDT fluid and put 80w-90 in that dude like it came with.
As far as filters Kubotas are rebranded and their engine oil is one of four common diesel oils.
Unless their older. If they are they might only be SAE 30 wt.
I use OEM in everything. Badboy Mower, 4Runner, F150, Pioneer, Kubota, Stihl, and so on.
While under warranty, I will use manufacturer recommended products just to avoid warranty claim issues. After the warranty, I look at it like this, when was the recommended fluid formulated? If you have a 10 year old vehicle and the fluid was developed and formulated 10 years ago, is there newer fluids possibly formulated to a higher standard than the original? Filters with better designs and components? Tires with better tread design and longer lasting rubber. That's how I service my vehicles and when my 1 year old tractor goes out of warranty, I will do the same with it.
Just Recently Purchased a 20 year old MF. I done a Full Service with all OEM Products with Full Intention of going with Aftermarket Products Next Time. My Idea was to go with all OEM Products at First to make sure everything was at the Level Recommended (and I have no idea of the History of the Tractor or Last Time it was Serviced) then spend a little more time looking at the aftermarket Products. Micron Count, Viscosity, Detergents Used, Etc. I believe you can always use "A" aftermarket Product, but not all of them are the same. We always have to do our research.
i have a nh tc30 and its cold here and i plow with it and mow, the rotella in the engine and premium tsc hyd oil moakes it run quiter and smoother especially in the cold than what was in it, and its a 10 gal rear so the oem nh is about 200 more now and i feel if you get the good stuff from tsc and rotella its better
Hi Mike. I AM a litle farmer from argentina. I try to Buy the fluids and filters available bit price is important too.your idea on taking diferent brands to a lab test is brilliant.
I'm in a whirlwind here when it comes to this subject. My buddy WT has a 2 John Deere subcompact tractors, and he uses only John Deere fluids and filters. The only tractor I own is a 1979 Power King economy tractor that was powered by a kohler k321 14hp gas engine, but I'm currently in the process of replacing the engine with Kubota D600 3 cylinder diesel engine from a Kubota g5200 diesel mower. I'm not sure, how to go about choosing the proper fluids for the D600. I'm most likely going to use Shell Rotella 15w40 with factory Kubota filters. I'm not sure if this is the best decision though.
Project farm site does this ...he is really good
Mike, I have an old 1949 AC WD and a 2018 Massey Ferguson. I am retired. No more farming here. I just brush hog, move dirt and gravel and dig stumps or haul firewood. When I hit my 50 hour on the MF, I did go back to the dealer for fluids and filters. But since then I have been going to carquest for filters and Tractor Supply for fluids. My dealer told me I would not be invalidating any warranty or harming the equipment. In fact, they gave me the part numbers for the filters and fluids at each place. They told me the after market brands, if they are the correct part numbers, meet the requirements of the manufacturer. In some cases they said some of the filters are even better. On a side not, my MF experienced a hydraulic fluid leak at the joystick splitter valve. It was caused by failure of the o-rings which is usually the case. I went back to my dealer 3 times to buy the o-rings because after all it is under warranty until this December. Well the 3 replacement set failed back in June after only a month. This time, I took the fourth set of o-rings which were never used to my local hardware store and bought the same size and installed them. So far, no leaks or blow outs. The o-rings from my local hardware store were 25% of the cost of the dealer o-rings. My local hardware store is 8 miles away, the dealer is 32 miles. The autoparts store is 8 miles and TSC is 20 miles. Just because your retired doesn't mean ya have plenty of time to kill. I don't like going anywhere and if I can choose a 20 mile drive over 32, well I choose 20. Not to mention my truck only gets about 15mpg and we all see what the price of fuel is these days. I am in NE Kansas.
Mfgr oils and filers, mainly because my dealer said the warranty is invalid if I use anything else. Dealer tried to tell me the maintenance had to be performed by them to keep warranty valid, but they caved when I said I’d buy supplies from them.
Messicks had some excellent filter videos oil is a spec you meet or exceed that spec and your fine oem oil is always excessively priced for me it's oem equipment filters and rotella t6 or t4 with zero failures I'm a mechanic of 22 years and this is what I do and recommend on equipment, send your oil to Blackstone for testing very good company
Mike, I’ve got a Kubota 3130 made in 2006. I’ve also have a ZD1211 I bought new about a year and half ago, I put any diesel oil and auto Zone filters in the tractor and only Kubota fluids and filters in the mower. Knock on (wood) no problem with either.
Blackstone Labs = oil test by mail . I'd use factory oil / filters as long as the warentee is in effect . After that, good aftermarket .
I so ewhat agree. If any piece of equipment is under warranty, I use what the manufacturer reccomends. As far as filters and fluids go, I don't believe ant tractor or equipment manufacturer makes their own petroleum products or filters. I may be wrong here (it's happened many times), but I think they use standards already set by mechanical and chemical engineers. Once it's out of warranty, if an aftermarket product meets the manufacturers requirements, I'll use it.
Mike, get on the list for starlink!
I have an 11 year old JD 4520 with just over 2200 hours. For the cost difference and piece of mind I have always used OEM oils and filters. This is my fifth tractor and I've never had a failure. Always enjoy your videos.
Just did the 400 hr service on my Kioti CK 3510SE, I have always used Kioti filters, when it comes to hydraulic oil and diesel oil I use what Kioti lists as a compatible oil. I just put in Shell Spirax hydraulic fluid and Shell Rotunda diesel oil. I have used Shell since the tractor was new, it's now 4 years old and have never had a problem using Shell fluids and Kioti factory filters. That said I wouldn't buy a non brand name hydraulic or engine oil. Yes it is expensive to change hydraulic fluids and filters. Probably around $250 by the time I am finished.
Bought my McCormick new. Before my 50 hours were up the dealer no longer represented Mccormick. When I went back to get oil from the dealer they did not have the name brand oil recommended by the manufacturer. The dealer said it doesn't matter as long as it meets the specs. IDK.
lol ... that's pretty funny, Mike, running up to McDonald's to download your Y/T videos! Keep 'em coming, whatever it takes.
Mike,
Yes, I use Kubota filters and all fluids. My thought is that why own a $35,000 tractor and try to save $100 on cheaper oil and filters. If I can’t afford to maintain it, maybe I should not have bought it. Just my 2 cents.
I've been asking this question about hydraulic oil for a long time. It didn't make much difference when I had an old Ford 8N but my newish New Holland with a hydrostatic drive trans. I want to put in the right stuff. NH dealers sell their branded oils in two flavors one for tractors with manual trans and another for hydrostatic tractors. If I knew the exact specs I'd buy cheaper so I don't know so I pay more
thank you for the trouble you go to, to give sound advice, i have a Branson tractor my dealer told me to use tractor supply premium hyd. oil, and 85w-140w gear oil, though manual calls for 90w. and in implements also. I use Branson filters. and i use synthetic diesel motor oil with the proper weight. if this is a mistake please tell me?
Project farm collaboration with oil testing. Lab test it and maybe run it all in same engine for same amount of time and send it off to oil analysis.
I have suggested this kinda test info about these different brands of them to Project Farm to find out what ones are good and not a couple weeks ago on one of his videos
I agree with your logic.
There is no question that the tractor manufacturers do not make their own lubricants, as you have said. However, most manufacturers do specify minimum standards and/or additives in their branded lubricants they source from their suppliers. If you have invested tens of thousands of dollars in a new or relatively new tractor, it only seems sensible to run the manufacturer’s lubricants.
As a retired diesel mechanic and part time farmer I have been using Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac 15W 40 in everything I own since the late 70s and that included a push mower with a 3 1/2 hp Briggs and Stratton which lasted 24 years. And Mike NAPA sell a oil analysis kit that is I believe is postage paid and you will get a report on the oil you drained. Oh yes NAPA GOLD FILTERS are one of the highest rated on the market. Shell and Mobile both make hydraulic oils
Oh on my farm I had three diesel and one gas tractors.
Love all your tips i learned a lot from you thank you. I,m getting ready to do my 50hr going to use the brand that came out of it.
I have a question. My L3830 4WD Hydrostatic would hold going down my slopes, by letting control peddle go to neutral, for the first several years. Now about halfway down it starts free wheeling. I have checked the Hydraulic oil level. But I still have the problem. While Ile I have had this for 13 years, great tractor, Have I missed not adjusting a clutch for wear Or is the problem in another area.
P.. S. I watched your slope cutting video. The "cruise control lever" and the High-Med- Low lever are on the left side of the seat, same color handle, size and height. I started down a hill on my first cut reached to pull the cruise control lever back to stop and go to a lower gear and puled the other lever from Med range to neutral. That was a fun 150 foot ride.
I'm a sales guy more than a service guy, so I'm really not a great source of information about why the hydro would allow the tractor to free wheel, but I would think that would be an internal leak allowing oil to flow through the system from the pressure of gravity pushing the machine down the hill. I don't know if it'll cause other problems but if it causes a safety issue it would be wise to have it looked at. I think a dealer is going to want to replace the hydro to fix the problem and that could be a bit expensive.
Good discussion Mike.
Mike, now that McD knows your using their internet, the price of your coffee might go up! Appreciate your channel. Loving the Pat’s Quick Change Hitch I purchased through your store. Works great on my 1025r and not as restrictive as “the other” quick hitches.
McD hates me because I only buy off the dollar menu (which keeps getting smaller). They're struggling to keep their doors open because people like me use their internet and then don't feel obligated to buy anything. I guess it's because when the kids were little we spent enough with them to help them build a new store here.
Thanks for your business on Pat's Easy Change...that is a great product!
I also use factory fluids and filters. Probably not necessary but it does make me feel better!
I use Kubota OEM oil in my tractor. Haven’t had any issues.
John Deere 1025R owner here. Yes, I use the manufactures fluids and filters. In my opinion, the cost savings comes from me doing it, at home, at my convenience.
Mike this won't help your survey but I buy all my oils from Rural King and get a 5% didcount because I use their store card for my late 50"s JI Case 300B. I'm pretty sure I won't have any warranty issues with it.
However this will help your comment count.
I believe in eliminating excuses. I just took my new Kubota L3560 in for its 50 hours maintenance. Cost $350 and to me it is worth the piece of mind. Should that tractor fail from anything but neglect I will be able to reduce my liability by proving they used the proper product and it was maintained by a manufacturer trained mechanic. $350 to maintain a $30,000 investment is an easy choice for me. Thanks for another great video Mike. If you think a Ruth Chris steak and a McDonald's cheese burger are they same because they both come from a cow...well good luck.
No failures and I use different quality oils on 5 different tractors (38 - 75 hp ) over 40 yrs.....except on my Ford f250 and the dealer swears I need to use their oil...so I do.
Sounds like a collaboration with Project Farm and Blackstone Labs for the analysis should be in the works.
Be honest if you read the back of the quart or gallon it will tell you who manufactures the oil/filter.i personally use a better filter.
I've had bad luck with OEM filters, so now I pay more for a better filter.i still use OEM oil.
For Kioti under warranty or not I use the oils recommended in the manual there is a list of acceptable oils from different mfg.
ONLY during warranty period then that expensive stuff is over. Been doing it this way for many years...Harleys, ATVs, Cars, Trucks, Tractors and being from Minnesota... many many boats too.
Well, I'm from the old school to (77) BUT, I will use the filters for my Tractors and backhoe's with the book specks . I have been using the hydraulic oil for Tractor supply's, it is the same.. Haven't had any trouble in years with the oil types, Filters cost lots of $$$$$ but it cleans the Hyd fluid, It's just me, But the prices have gone through the roof. See Ya Texas
Yes I use the dealer filters but I use 15w40 shell rotella/ T4 , I have used it for 28 years and never had a problem, just saying
Definitely agree with OEM on filters and don't fully disagree with fluids, but if a motor oil or hydraulic oil says it meets OEM specs and it is 1/2 the cost of OEM fluid, I would buy it. The same goes for OEM grease. I use greases that meet the spec. in my owner's manual but are not OEM, but my dealer is not nearly as close as about a dozen automotive shops that have the proper spec. greases and that is also a consideration in cost
If it is new and under warranty equipment, the dealer will be getting my money as a cushion to make sure the fluids are changed within the recommendations and then, if a failure occurs, I will have someone other than the guy in the mirror to blame. I love DIY, but that is my one exception.
Filters, yes because I haven’t been able to cross reference them yet. Oil, no. I use better than manufacturers oil. So at the end of the day it cost me $100 or more to use what I use. But to me it’s worth it to have what I consider the best protection in something that makes me money.
thank you again,,, Mike!!!!
Great video Mike thanks
I've only had my Kubota BX2680 for a couple months, but I will be using Kubota filters and oil...plus it gives me an excuse to go to the dealership LOL.
I'm swapping all the fluids from my tractor to a full synthetic oil. Specifically AMSOIL, I'd be curious if you had any experience with these oils. I've ran amsoil in all my vehicles with great experience with the brand.
I don't have personal experience with their products but I've heard from a lot of my viewers who swear by them.
Tractor, truck, not automotive companies make their own filters, oils, batteries, etc! Wix filters are the best filter on the market! Oils always check the API rating.
"The great thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from." - Fairchild Semiconductors -
My personally philosophy with just about anything is buy the best you can afford. You're probably better off doing an oil change with less expensive supplies than not doing one at all.
I use Kubota filters but the oil I got from my Kubota dealership was not Kubota brand. They said it was too expensive and that they don’t stock it. There oil is still a lot more than the oil in the farm stores. I wasn’t happy that I was paying a premium price for none Kubota oil. Not sure what I’m going to do next time.
Buy an OEM filter band the other you are considering.
Cut the shell off and compare the elements and relief valves. Buy the actual better filter to use on the tractor.
This really does matter. The filters do not have the standardization you might expect. A "direct replacement" can be very different inside the shell. Some OEM filters are much better than Fram. Some are nowhere near as good ... Fram is a mediocre filter. It's OK and won't void warranty, but I wouldn't use them after having cut a few open.
I wish we still used the filters where you change the element and actually get to see the filter media.
My dealer supplies one of the off brand hydraulic fluids. It's not the cheapest, but it's far cheaper than OEM brand and the dealer recommends it.
It's appx 13 gallons to do a hydraulic fluid change and about 2 gallons of engine oil. And 3.5 quarts of front differential oil.(For my tractor)
I have a 2021 Massey Ferguson GC1725M. I use all the manufacturers oil and filters except in the engine. There I have switched to Amsoil signature series diesel oil. It is a high end expensive oil. It has exceptional ratings. What do you think?
I've never used it but I know a lot of my viewers wouldn't use anything else.
I use oem oil filters and grease