Hi! It's been a while since I took a PSOne screen apart, but I'm pretty sure that the LCD driver IC does have a PAL/NTSC selection pin with a convinient test pad. Setting this to NTSC should allow it to play both PAL och NTSC. Could be a fun little project. :) (I did something similar for a project a few years back when building a mini arcade cabinet)
For those who don't speak a Scandinavian language: "och" means "and" (as is evident within the context and does not need to be pointed out...). Okay, I'll go back into my corner now. Good point about the selection pin though.
I had a playstation back when i was in the US Navy (1999 - 2003) and took it with me everywhere. In my first deployment to the Persian Gulf I had it chipped (modded) and bought a ton of games for $1 each. Memories.
This is what TH-cam was designed for - sharing knowledge and experience to help others. The fact that you took the time to list all the part nos and Cap values so others can repair their devices as well is so great. I don't have a PS1 but if I did I'd be over the moon. 👍
I thought it was supposed to be for cat videos. Why did I not know this before I uploaded 1,700 cat videos on here? Shhh.... don't tell Google: I'm actually too cheap to pay for cloud video storage and I need to back up my 300 GB of cat videos. That's 300 GB in 2 years. Say kitty lives for 16 more years: that's 2.7 terabytes of storage needed. I ain't paying for that. Shhhh *Secret* okay?
Wow you are doing an awesome job Steve. I mean that's quality right there, running the wires underneath the chipped legs and stuff. That looks very nice, very good. Good skills and soldering through the edge of the wire instead of trimming into length that's a good trick too, using the heat of the solder. That's really neat. This is great, I love the work
Heya Stez, nicely installed! Just a heads up on cap replacements in these older systems. They tend to use aluminium electrolytic capacitors because ceramics can lose a load of capacitance in areas with high DC bias. Notice how the PS1 has some SMD MLCC caps already? The engineers chose to use electrolytics in the places where they were needed. Using MLCC's like this will have thrown the circuit slightly out of whack, looks like it's not a big deal though at least. It's worth bearing in mind though for future projects. Also I have it on good authority Dave says you shouldn't twist off caps! If you want to be lazy just clip the can just above the plastic base of the SMD with some flush cuts, then desolder the remaining legs with a regular iron. Twisting caps off is a recipe for torn pads :(
Thanks Dan. I didn't realise that about the caps, I thought they just used those aluminum ones to save pennies! Makes sense though, but yeah in this case it still works perfectly. The video and audio signals seem much cleaner too, but that could just be my imagination! I kinda knew twisting the caps off was a bad idea, but I got loads of comments previously telling me that's the best way to do it. I really wanted to demonstrate both methods in this video, and I was hoping the twisting would've pulled the pad to prove a point! Sadly it didn't! 😬
Is it not because of microphonics also, ceramic caps can introduce noise into the cricuit and should only be used for decoupling really and not inte the signal path. th-cam.com/video/67M7fsbLUIU/w-d-xo.html from a guy who is much more competent than me.
@@StezStixFix if you keep the pliers entirely perpendicular and twist in one direction, its usually fine. The pads break off with twisting when there is corrosion damage, or when it's an old 80s board.
Using electrolytics have always been a cost saving method in most cases and back in time it was not a cheap option to get high value ceramic caps like today, sure the ceramic caps might not be the best choice always but they are usually more stable than expensive tantalum or elyte caps in the long run. These electrolytic caps are put in locations where there really is not that sensitive to have large drift in capacitance in the first place. remember electrolytic caps can have in excess of 20% allowed drift in value, plus the ESR also drift over time. Everyone talks how you can always put in higher voltage caps when no one actually tell you the device actually gonna see a lower capacitance and higher ESR value then. to understand what different caps do in certain situations takes years of deep practice. "The easy way" is to say you should put in a new device with same values but then again you go back to the fact that electrolytic caps sucks and always will fail no matter if you use them or not. it is a satisfaction to know if a repair gonna work if you experiment but you can never get that answer unless you actually do it. The money have ALWAYS been the reson to use the cheaper parts because then you can be sure you earn more money when you sell your product, and you can make sure it gonna break sooner rather than later making you sell your next product the same way over and over again.
@@StezStixFix I really enjoy your videos. How are those ceramic caps in your PSone holding out 2 years later? I'm recapping a PS1 PU-20 board and noticed the replacement 10uf 16v caps are very big for the pads. Plus I can't seem to find them in the size Sony used back then. Therefore, I'm thinking of using ceramic caps like you did in your repair. For the other caps on the board I will just replace them with the aluminum surface mount ones. Thanks and looking forward to your future repair videos.
Glad to see other people using smd for this. In the process of putting in a PsNee and instructions showed a bent up through-hole one. Having a board similar tot he one you used, but once sided. Expecting it to be easier to solder and place than the larger package.
Watching soldering in general is so therapeutic. And you're not too bad at it! I want to mod my PS1 classic but I have no idea where to start or even buy a mod chip from
Great video! I just did the exact thing about 2 months ago. On my console I found most of the caps were leaking. The video was garbled but had sound. The Cap replacement fixed the problem!
Dude you are the most exciting fix it video guy I've ever seen. I'm actually learning stuff from your videos too. I hope to one day be able to use a soldering iron and actually fix/ diagnose my own game consoles. I've spent a fortune throughout my life paying repair dudes to fix my stuff.
I love your content, and this video may be 8 months old, but the way you handled that metal gear solid disc was nothing short of sacrilegious. Hold it by the edges, man!!
Awesome video mate - and happy to see Dave got saved forever. You can patch NTSC PSX isos to PAL quite easily buddy. There was also an internal Video CD mod you used to be able to get from LikSang back in the day (I'm trying to track one down but having little luck) was cool to be able to watch movies in the car. Fantastic work as always, and loved the Voultar parody, that dudes got some skills
Thanks Lee! I'll look into the patching, but I suspect that the bootup screen would still flicker before flipping back to PAL and displaying normally. Not the end of the world, but it would bug me I think. Thanks for the headsup on LikSang, I'll check that out too. 👍
@@StezStixFix LikSang closed mid 2000's after Sony took them to court a few times. I've seen somewhere that it's possible to mount a PSIO ODE internally in the PSone, not sure how that handles regions though
Hi, great videos! Any plans on making a video on how to solder and what tools you need? Like temperature, soldertip size, why use flux, what solder to use when etc?
I discovered you a few weeks ago and have been binge watching. I’m glad I finally got the see the video you put Dave in resin. Last week I saw the one you found him. I’m easily distracted.
Great work. I would wear protective glasses if you get those caps hot they have the ability to explode or pop with the cap going airborne. I always using hot air cover those caps and make sure no direct heat is being applied to the caps. However, great job and I always love the videos.
modsvilleUSA is always mentioning how he had one explode in his face, and wont go near caps with hot air anymore, even going as far as covering caps with kapton tape if his removing other components remotely close to any electrolytic caps
I for one am comforted knowing Dave is immortalized in resin. Years from now you can wear Dave as an amulet. Friends forever and Everrrrrr... Meanwhile you can sell "Daves" in resin key-chains and rings, amulets ! for $5.00 not including shipping OFC (not kidding btw, Its Y.T. it ll work.)
I had to restart the video because I was laughing about Dave's new immortality that I missed the beginning of the PS One plan of action. Another great video.
I had that problem when I was a kid. Had a modded PS1, but I couldn't play NTSC games on my PAL console. My TV would do the same thing as your LCD screen. Remember downloading a tool that could convert any game into PAL and that worked wonderfully.
O.M.G! Dave the Lice! reminds me of 2 things. Them magazines you used to buy monthly, with bugs in square resin blocks. Other is Jurassic Park! Now if we get giant bugs taking over, it's Your fault brother Steve! giving them them D.N.A 🤣🤣 Now do the (DFO) Mod Kit Install and try the screen, The (3.3V SMD Version) is the best! Gone! are the days of seeing peoples, abomination installs of the MultiMode3. You made it look so good!!! 👍🏻
Thanks brother Steve! Yeah, i was really happy with how it came out. Felt good to have everything all neat and tidy in there! I wasn't sure if the dual oscillator mod would work, but I'll definitely give it a go! Anything for a bit more experience and some more fun with this PSone! 😊
I could have told you some further things, in our talks, but then you wouldn't learn a dam thing or gain more self gratitude, and experience things in your own time. I'm proud! of you, ya 🤓
👍 I've been looking around for the DFO but can't find any. Consoles Unleashed seem to be the best bet but they have 0 in stock 🙄. Might have to try and make my own! 😁
Your Voultar impression made me cackle! 🤣 Great job man! I wish I had your skills as I have already assassinated a psone console attempting this stuff 😅 I'm subbing right away look forward to more videos 👌🏻
Even though I'm not going to even think about opening my PSone I still like that you gave time to screenshot the list. Nothing worse than trying to time a screenshot of a list that's off at an obscure angle in the background and only visible for 2 frames. Keep up the good work man. Love the content!
Yes there are PAL and NTSC LCD screens. Pal PSOne has a boot protection and it measures the freq on boot. Onechip sets this freq at 60Hz and That's because you can't properly see the boot sequence in your pal LCD screen, because it needs to be set at 60Hz in order to make the Usa/JAP games compatibles. And That's why the NTSC PSOne doesn't need the onechip extra features.
Great video mate and a very tidy mod. As soon as I seen the screen not working I new it would be a Pal/NTSC issue. If it’s not possible to change the setting on the screen you can find Pal converters for the ps1 that just plug in to the display port of the console, maybe you could mod it somehow to be inside the console, there is also other converters but not specifically for the ps1.
Thanks Dan! Good call, I'll take a look at those convertors. 👍 I've been looking for some kind of dual oscillator mod, but I can't seem to get hold of the right boards...
I used a burned disk to choose PAL or NTSC Accidentally i downloaded this swap boot disk image i thought it's can run backups like the Dreamcast boot disk I just made a search i found new version called *ImportPlayer Light v2.1*
It’s a long time ago but I remember patching the iso files to convert games to PAL, the dodgy sites where those patches were found are probably long long gone! Perhaps nick the circuit design from a cheap ntsc/pal converter.
Very nice video. Always love soldering work, and your take on Voultar's mod work is just as nice! (Sadly, mine wasn't and I ended up mostly killing my board. You know this already, but never twist. The hot air station is the best way, although I have seen soldering tweezers. I was kind of hoping you'd blow off some smaller components around there, but that didn't happen. Instead of converting the LCD to NTSC, why not convert the modchip to only output in PAL?
Sliding the wire under the chips legs so it's not seen so much you smart little pickle. Great video as always. I got a rapid fire chip here fancy making my own for my own personal controllers. How much was the reader you got
Cool, thanks Philip! The programmer was around £50 I think. In fact, it's this one: amzn.to/3itO8Fv £52.99 at the moment on Amazon. There are cheaper ones, but I heard they are not as reliable! 👍👍
the answer is simple: the modchip you installed is a onechip. it forced the bios to goin on NTSC video mode for bypass the executable region mode. And yes, your screen is PAL Only
Japanese PSone doesn’t allow to boot US or PAL games at all because of BIOS, PAL PSone does the exactly same thing. ONEchip alters video output to fool the BIOS check.
Back in the day the psone needed 2 mod chips One chip was for back ups and region free Which is what you put in And the other was to allow n t s c games to show in colour when you used the r f lead on a tv and ps1 screen as most kids bedroom televisions only had r f and not the r g b inputs All other PlayStation s used a single chip but we chipped the psone with two
amazing. just a tip next time you incase a Dave in carbonite. Hit the resin with a heat gun or solder hot air gun. to remove bubbles and end up with a crystal clear ball. unless you where going for a snow globe look? I'm sure Dave doesn't mind either way.
I'm not an expert on PS1 mod chips but I know that there must be a plethora of different mod chip firmwares out there. The chip installed in my old PAL-PS1 for example allows NTSC original games, but not copies - neither PAL, nor NTSC, which is fine as I collected original games only and I wanted to play US games for a) the lack of censorship and b) the original language (the German language version of MGS has atrocious dubbing, for example). That being said: At 11:25 you program the chip with a firmware that is named "ONEChip for SCPH-102 (PAL Only + Boot NTSC region fix included).hex". This filename would indicate to me this: - it only works on this specific "SCPH-102" Playstation model, which is a PAL variant The bits in the parentheses are even more interesting: - "PAL Only": this MAY indicate that it only allows for copies of PAL games, but not NTSC ones (as the SCPH-102 already specified that it is for a PAL console) - "Boot NTSC region fix": allows for NTSC originals(!), as the "only" in the bit before it signals that only PAL copies are allowed A different firmware, if available, could give you different results in regards to NTSC copies... About the display: While PAL Playstations CAN NOT output NTSC signals they CAN indeed output 60 Hz signals so you CAN play NTSC games on it, if you modded the console and provide a display that accepts 60 Hz signals. Most later (mid 90ies+) PAL CRT-TVs apparently were able to accept 60 Hz video -- similar to the popular PAL video monitors from Commodore for the Amiga (I have the 1081 model). While there were a few true multi-region PAL displays that would also accept NTSC signals the vast majority simply didn't have the hardware for it. This means that if you use the composite or S-Video outputs of the Playstation (which both have color encoding) you would only get a black & white image on most PAL displays. However, if you use the RGB-output of the Playstation you CAN display NTSC games in color as you circumvent the color encoding altogether (as you feed the red, green and blue signals separately into the display). The SCART inputs of the aforementioned 60 Hz PAL-TVs usually accept RGB signals so you would get the best image quality possible from the PS. Todays PAL flatscreens might also work because AFAIK they are specified for both 50 and 60 Hz (in HD modes but LIKELY also on their analog inputs) and still have SCART inputs, many (most?) of which are still RGB-capable. From what I know, NTSC flatscreens don't necessarily accept 50 Hz but most NTSC users don't care for PAL games anyway... ;-) The "original" mini PS One LCD screen may not work with NTSC games at all (I never had one), but there are definitely multi-system mini-LCDs out there that accept both PAL and NTSC. Ashens has a good video on those tiny screens of the PS One ("PS One Portable Screens"), BTW... Finally, I don't remember when exactly the mod chip inserts itself into the boot process but it COULD be that it always switches the video output of the PAL PS1 to 60 Hz first (which would explain the "running" boot screen on the mini LCD) before it recognizes the PAL game (Metal Gear Solid in this case) and switches the PS1 to 50 Hz, which then shows a stable image on the mini LCD. Sorry for the long text... ;-)
I have always wanted to do a mod chip, you made it look so easy. I hope you can find a way to use the screen so we can get another video on this :D haha
Recently found your channel and I've been binge watching your videos to learn more about repairs! I do have a question - do you know where I could find info so that I can learn more about PCBs, using the multimeter to find compatible points for soldering, and general electronics info for mods? I've been just learning everything on the fly, which is fine and all, but I don't know where to really look to find some of this information out (for example, you used your multimeter to find compatible points on the PCB for the onechip and I have no clue how I'd do that or what I'd even look for on the board) Really appreciate all of your videos and please keep them up! Obligatory like on all videos for algorithm purposes!
Hi stezstix and dave , can you tell me what model is your arm support for your microscope , i ve a basic one that isn t fonctionnal at all , sorry for the grammar i am french , good work and videos , need more !
Hi west malle! I made the arm support from the original Andonstar base plate and welded an Oitez articulated bracket to it, (Like this one: thepihut.com/products/articulated-arm-stand-for-usb-microscope). It works well 👍
Thanks Travis! Sadly the screen is only compatible with 50Hz, so without modification it's not gonna work. I'm looking into a dual oscillator mod, which might fix it though 👍
I have the psone dvd player with the lcd display, and I had the same region issues. I found a code online to change the region, but when I accessed the menu, there was no way to input the code. Also, I suspect it would have only changed the region on the dvd player, and not of the display
10:33 you did this backwards... you start with the lever up and then close it when the socket is in the holes and it pulls a wire across the legs of the socket...notice the arm is down on the picture of the ZIF socket in the software...
I wasn't sure if I was watching a man install a modchip or start a tent revival! I'm noticing some odd music choices with these older videos 😂 I was also gonna talk shit on Voultard, but I'll leave it. I'm actually quite surprised he's not in the comments section as he loves the attention.
It's a bit late to suggest this, but it would be nice if you made a note on the inside of the case in permanent marker of when you did the recap and modchip (and maybe sign it, as it is very artistic).
Nice job the even cheaper alternative. Solder the drive activation switch on pick up a psone code breaker and boot the console up with the code breaker disk select start game code breaker disk will stop spinning the drive and insert any copies of games also works on ps2 code breaker as well
I did this for a long time, and unfortunately this can wear out a laser quicker over time. One of the first things the laser does in a console is adjusts itself based on the reflectivity of the disc inside, and when you use swap tricks or things like this, it never bothers to adjust itself to read the disc properly. IMO this is why modchips are the best solution.
So this is where it starts... the legend of Dave!
Hi!
It's been a while since I took a PSOne screen apart, but I'm pretty sure that the LCD driver IC does have a PAL/NTSC selection pin with a convinient test pad.
Setting this to NTSC should allow it to play both PAL och NTSC.
Could be a fun little project. :)
(I did something similar for a project a few years back when building a mini arcade cabinet)
+1000
Yes do this Steve!
For those who don't speak a Scandinavian language: "och" means "and" (as is evident within the context and does not need to be pointed out...). Okay, I'll go back into my corner now.
Good point about the selection pin though.
I had a playstation back when i was in the US Navy (1999 - 2003) and took it with me everywhere. In my first deployment to the Persian Gulf I had it chipped (modded) and bought a ton of games for $1 each. Memories.
This is what TH-cam was designed for - sharing knowledge and experience to help others. The fact that you took the time to list all the part nos and Cap values so others can repair their devices as well is so great. I don't have a PS1 but if I did I'd be over the moon. 👍
I thought it was supposed to be for cat videos.
Why did I not know this before I uploaded 1,700 cat videos on here?
Shhh.... don't tell Google: I'm actually too cheap to pay for cloud video storage and I need to back up my 300 GB of cat videos.
That's 300 GB in 2 years. Say kitty lives for 16 more years: that's 2.7 terabytes of storage needed. I ain't paying for that. Shhhh
*Secret* okay?
It is a public forum. Period.
OMG!! The glasses and the Voultar bit...toooo good mate! :-D
😁 thanks Adam! I just hope he doesn't see it 🤣
Wow you are doing an awesome job Steve. I mean that's quality right there, running the wires underneath the chipped legs and stuff. That looks very nice, very good. Good skills and soldering through the edge of the wire instead of trimming into length that's a good trick too, using the heat of the solder. That's really neat. This is great, I love the work
Thanks William! I was really happy with how it came out! 👍
@@StezStixFix voultar is awesome good job. Might need to mod the display with a second crystal and a switch to change regions manually.
Heya Stez, nicely installed! Just a heads up on cap replacements in these older systems. They tend to use aluminium electrolytic capacitors because ceramics can lose a load of capacitance in areas with high DC bias. Notice how the PS1 has some SMD MLCC caps already? The engineers chose to use electrolytics in the places where they were needed.
Using MLCC's like this will have thrown the circuit slightly out of whack, looks like it's not a big deal though at least. It's worth bearing in mind though for future projects.
Also I have it on good authority Dave says you shouldn't twist off caps! If you want to be lazy just clip the can just above the plastic base of the SMD with some flush cuts, then desolder the remaining legs with a regular iron. Twisting caps off is a recipe for torn pads :(
Thanks Dan. I didn't realise that about the caps, I thought they just used those aluminum ones to save pennies! Makes sense though, but yeah in this case it still works perfectly. The video and audio signals seem much cleaner too, but that could just be my imagination!
I kinda knew twisting the caps off was a bad idea, but I got loads of comments previously telling me that's the best way to do it. I really wanted to demonstrate both methods in this video, and I was hoping the twisting would've pulled the pad to prove a point! Sadly it didn't! 😬
Is it not because of microphonics also, ceramic caps can introduce noise into the cricuit and should only be used for decoupling really and not inte the signal path. th-cam.com/video/67M7fsbLUIU/w-d-xo.html from a guy who is much more competent than me.
@@StezStixFix if you keep the pliers entirely perpendicular and twist in one direction, its usually fine. The pads break off with twisting when there is corrosion damage, or when it's an old 80s board.
Using electrolytics have always been a cost saving method in most cases and back in time it was not a cheap option to get high value ceramic caps like today, sure the ceramic caps might not be the best choice always but they are usually more stable than expensive tantalum or elyte caps in the long run. These electrolytic caps are put in locations where there really is not that sensitive to have large drift in capacitance in the first place. remember electrolytic caps can have in excess of 20% allowed drift in value, plus the ESR also drift over time. Everyone talks how you can always put in higher voltage caps when no one actually tell you the device actually gonna see a lower capacitance and higher ESR value then. to understand what different caps do in certain situations takes years of deep practice. "The easy way" is to say you should put in a new device with same values but then again you go back to the fact that electrolytic caps sucks and always will fail no matter if you use them or not. it is a satisfaction to know if a repair gonna work if you experiment but you can never get that answer unless you actually do it. The money have ALWAYS been the reson to use the cheaper parts because then you can be sure you earn more money when you sell your product, and you can make sure it gonna break sooner rather than later making you sell your next product the same way over and over again.
Neat solution to routing the wires both as in ingenious and literally.
Thanks Ned! 👍 Yeah, really happy with how tidy it came out. So much more satisfying doing it that way!
@@StezStixFix I really enjoy your videos. How are those ceramic caps in your PSone holding out 2 years later? I'm recapping a PS1 PU-20 board and noticed the replacement 10uf 16v caps are very big for the pads. Plus I can't seem to find them in the size Sony used back then. Therefore, I'm thinking of using ceramic caps like you did in your repair. For the other caps on the board I will just replace them with the aluminum surface mount ones. Thanks and looking forward to your future repair videos.
Glad to see other people using smd for this. In the process of putting in a PsNee and instructions showed a bent up through-hole one. Having a board similar tot he one you used, but once sided. Expecting it to be easier to solder and place than the larger package.
I sit here amazed at you ‘get-cracking’, easy-peazy brilliant
Neat wiring job with that chip install - Great video man! Enjoyed.
Thanks James, much appreciated! 👍
Watching soldering in general is so therapeutic. And you're not too bad at it! I want to mod my PS1 classic but I have no idea where to start or even buy a mod chip from
I've watched your vids every time they've popped up in my feed for the past month or so, and I'm so glad to finally be led to the Dave origin story.
Great video! I just did the exact thing about 2 months ago. On my console I found most of the caps were leaking. The video was garbled but had sound. The Cap replacement fixed the problem!
Dude you are the most exciting fix it video guy I've ever seen. I'm actually learning stuff from your videos too. I hope to one day be able to use a soldering iron and actually fix/ diagnose my own game consoles. I've spent a fortune throughout my life paying repair dudes to fix my stuff.
That voultar shout out was perfect. 😂
I love your content, and this video may be 8 months old, but the way you handled that metal gear solid disc was nothing short of sacrilegious. Hold it by the edges, man!!
The background music (around 2 mins) is so relaxing. I love it!
Awesome video mate - and happy to see Dave got saved forever. You can patch NTSC PSX isos to PAL quite easily buddy. There was also an internal Video CD mod you used to be able to get from LikSang back in the day (I'm trying to track one down but having little luck) was cool to be able to watch movies in the car. Fantastic work as always, and loved the Voultar parody, that dudes got some skills
Thanks Lee! I'll look into the patching, but I suspect that the bootup screen would still flicker before flipping back to PAL and displaying normally. Not the end of the world, but it would bug me I think. Thanks for the headsup on LikSang, I'll check that out too. 👍
@@StezStixFix LikSang closed mid 2000's after Sony took them to court a few times. I've seen somewhere that it's possible to mount a PSIO ODE internally in the PSone, not sure how that handles regions though
Beautiful work. I use thinner enamelled copper wire, but I didn't think to use one of those PCB breakouts for the PIC.
He has such wire, but I think he opted for insulated for the extra protection over long runs, especially under the IC legs.
Hi, great videos! Any plans on making a video on how to solder and what tools you need? Like temperature, soldertip size, why use flux, what solder to use when etc?
I discovered you a few weeks ago and have been binge watching. I’m glad I finally got the see the video you put Dave in resin. Last week I saw the one you found him. I’m easily distracted.
Great work. I would wear protective glasses if you get those caps hot they have the ability to explode or pop with the cap going airborne. I always using hot air cover those caps and make sure no direct heat is being applied to the caps. However, great job and I always love the videos.
Thanks Oz! Appreciate the tip! 👍
modsvilleUSA is always mentioning how he had one explode in his face, and wont go near caps with hot air anymore, even going as far as covering caps with kapton tape if his removing other components remotely close to any electrolytic caps
Very clean mod reminds me of my highschool friends who soldered jumpers all over the MB. I called it the mad max desktop
Another great fix and quite interesting too there Steve on your PS One - nice 1 👍
Thanks Chris! 👍
I for one am comforted knowing Dave is immortalized in resin. Years from now you can wear Dave as an amulet. Friends forever and Everrrrrr...
Meanwhile you can sell "Daves" in resin key-chains and rings, amulets ! for $5.00 not including shipping OFC (not kidding btw, Its Y.T. it ll work.)
Haha, love the thought of people carrying round "Dave" keyrings! 🤣
I had to restart the video because I was laughing about Dave's new immortality that I missed the beginning of the PS One plan of action. Another great video.
I had that problem when I was a kid. Had a modded PS1, but I couldn't play NTSC games on my PAL console. My TV would do the same thing as your LCD screen. Remember downloading a tool that could convert any game into PAL and that worked wonderfully.
Dave🤣 That video was really good Steve. Lovely work, very entertaining!
Thanks Vince! 😁
Another excellent video Steve keep them coming mate 👍🏻
Thanks Josh, appreciate it mate 👍
Omg. Your comedic timing with your facial expressions is classic in your vids. Keep up the great work dude!! You made my day.
O.M.G! Dave the Lice! reminds me of 2 things. Them magazines you used to buy monthly, with bugs in square resin blocks. Other is Jurassic Park!
Now if we get giant bugs taking over, it's Your fault brother Steve! giving them them D.N.A 🤣🤣 Now do the (DFO) Mod Kit Install and try the screen,
The (3.3V SMD Version) is the best! Gone! are the days of seeing peoples, abomination installs of the MultiMode3. You made it look so good!!! 👍🏻
Thanks brother Steve! Yeah, i was really happy with how it came out. Felt good to have everything all neat and tidy in there!
I wasn't sure if the dual oscillator mod would work, but I'll definitely give it a go! Anything for a bit more experience and some more fun with this PSone! 😊
I could have told you some further things, in our talks, but then you wouldn't learn a dam thing or gain more self gratitude, and experience things in your own time. I'm proud! of you, ya 🤓
👍 I've been looking around for the DFO but can't find any. Consoles Unleashed seem to be the best bet but they have 0 in stock 🙄. Might have to try and make my own! 😁
Your Voultar impression made me cackle! 🤣
Great job man! I wish I had your skills as I have already assassinated a psone console attempting this stuff 😅
I'm subbing right away look forward to more videos 👌🏻
Thanks Bass! 😁 much appreciated! 👍
Voltair!!! He does great soldering!
Why did the preservation of Dave melt my heart so?
Screen must work on composite. If using screen can at least use RGB cable to side step issue.
Even though I'm not going to even think about opening my PSone I still like that you gave time to screenshot the list. Nothing worse than trying to time a screenshot of a list that's off at an obscure angle in the background and only visible for 2 frames. Keep up the good work man. Love the content!
Great upload many memories of my old PS 1 is this the model that is the audiophile or was that the older larger one.?
Thoroughly enjoyed my binge watch to catch up! I'll try not to get so behind next time ;)
😂 thanks Jon! Glad you're all caught up! 😁
Yes there are PAL and NTSC LCD screens. Pal PSOne has a boot protection and it measures the freq on boot. Onechip sets this freq at 60Hz and That's because you can't properly see the boot sequence in your pal LCD screen, because it needs to be set at 60Hz in order to make the Usa/JAP games compatibles. And That's why the NTSC PSOne doesn't need the onechip extra features.
Ah, thanks Josete2k! Appreciate the info 👍
Having a early morning coffee and nearly spat it all out when i looked up and you was looking back with hem stunnerz on.
Lol I like how he pauses and questions voultars phrases. The thing voultar says definitely aren't family friendly but he does great work.
Great video mate and a very tidy mod.
As soon as I seen the screen not working I new it would be a Pal/NTSC issue. If it’s not possible to change the setting on the screen you can find Pal converters for the ps1 that just plug in to the display port of the console, maybe you could mod it somehow to be inside the console, there is also other converters but not specifically for the ps1.
Thanks Dan! Good call, I'll take a look at those convertors. 👍 I've been looking for some kind of dual oscillator mod, but I can't seem to get hold of the right boards...
thanks steve you made modding them easy and re capping as well i love the way you listed the codes and values for each cap a fully educational video
Thanks Jon, much appreciated mate 👍
i love your repair videos. Keep up the exelent work
Another great video! I'm working my way through your older videos but still haven't come across one where you discover Dave, is there one?
I used a burned disk to choose PAL or NTSC Accidentally i downloaded this swap boot disk image i thought it's can run backups like the Dreamcast boot disk
I just made a search i found new version called *ImportPlayer Light v2.1*
It’s a long time ago but I remember patching the iso files to convert games to PAL, the dodgy sites where those patches were found are probably long long gone! Perhaps nick the circuit design from a cheap ntsc/pal converter.
Thanks Christopher, that's a very good shout. I'll see if I can find one and figure something out 👍
How the hell do you not have a gagillion subs is beyond me. Best engineering channel on TH-cam.
Nice work on those capacitors!
Nice job, Crash Bandicoot and Crash Team Racing are my favorite PSone games.
Thanks Tony. Love Crash Team Racing! Think I might have a go on that tonight! 👍
Very nice video. Always love soldering work, and your take on Voultar's mod work is just as nice! (Sadly, mine wasn't and I ended up mostly killing my board.
You know this already, but never twist. The hot air station is the best way, although I have seen soldering tweezers. I was kind of hoping you'd blow off some smaller components around there, but that didn't happen.
Instead of converting the LCD to NTSC, why not convert the modchip to only output in PAL?
From now on all your videos are either B.D. (Before Dave) or A.D. (After Dave) - how we love him
Sliding the wire under the chips legs so it's not seen so much you smart little pickle. Great video as always. I got a rapid fire chip here fancy making my own for my own personal controllers. How much was the reader you got
Cool, thanks Philip! The programmer was around £50 I think. In fact, it's this one: amzn.to/3itO8Fv £52.99 at the moment on Amazon. There are cheaper ones, but I heard they are not as reliable! 👍👍
The Voultar impression made my day
the answer is simple: the modchip you installed is a onechip.
it forced the bios to goin on NTSC video mode for bypass the executable region mode.
And yes, your screen is PAL Only
Skills 10:10. Video & Content 10:10. Drawing, meh 6:10 🙂. Great stuff as always matey
Lol you made history with Dave!
😁
Wonderful job, Always excited to watch your videos, thank you.. 💗 💗 💗
Thanks lalo! Much appreciated 😍
Japanese PSone doesn’t allow to boot US or PAL games at all because of BIOS, PAL PSone does the exactly same thing. ONEchip alters video output to fool the BIOS check.
Ahhhhhhh..... now Dave makes total sense!
Back in the day the psone needed 2 mod chips
One chip was for back ups and region free
Which is what you put in
And the other was to allow n t s c games to show in colour when you used the r f lead on a tv and ps1 screen
as most kids bedroom televisions only had r f and not the r g b inputs
All other PlayStation s used a single chip but we chipped the psone with two
Yeap was la la indeed
I had an original PS1 that I got a mod plug for. It was great, didn't even have to open the case.
you can use the freepsxboot memory card to change the output on any game from pal to ntsc or vice versa .. cheers
Who ever given the idea about the dave . Could gift award lol
😁 definitely! It was a great idea 💡
You can get aftermarket screens that have an actual switch on it to go between refresh rates (I have one).
amazing. just a tip next time you incase a Dave in carbonite. Hit the resin with a heat gun or solder hot air gun. to remove bubbles and end up with a crystal clear ball. unless you where going for a snow globe look? I'm sure Dave doesn't mind either way.
Hi and Thanks for the great videos! If possible could you post what sizes (length) these capacitors are Please? Thanks so much!!
I'm not an expert on PS1 mod chips but I know that there must be a plethora of different mod chip firmwares out there.
The chip installed in my old PAL-PS1 for example allows NTSC original games, but not copies - neither PAL, nor NTSC, which is fine as I collected original games only and I wanted to play US games for a) the lack of censorship and b) the original language (the German language version of MGS has atrocious dubbing, for example).
That being said: At 11:25 you program the chip with a firmware that is named "ONEChip for SCPH-102 (PAL Only + Boot NTSC region fix included).hex".
This filename would indicate to me this:
- it only works on this specific "SCPH-102" Playstation model, which is a PAL variant
The bits in the parentheses are even more interesting:
- "PAL Only": this MAY indicate that it only allows for copies of PAL games, but not NTSC ones (as the SCPH-102 already specified that it is for a PAL console)
- "Boot NTSC region fix": allows for NTSC originals(!), as the "only" in the bit before it signals that only PAL copies are allowed
A different firmware, if available, could give you different results in regards to NTSC copies...
About the display:
While PAL Playstations CAN NOT output NTSC signals they CAN indeed output 60 Hz signals so you CAN play NTSC games on it, if you modded the console and provide a display that accepts 60 Hz signals.
Most later (mid 90ies+) PAL CRT-TVs apparently were able to accept 60 Hz video -- similar to the popular PAL video monitors from Commodore for the Amiga (I have the 1081 model).
While there were a few true multi-region PAL displays that would also accept NTSC signals the vast majority simply didn't have the hardware for it.
This means that if you use the composite or S-Video outputs of the Playstation (which both have color encoding) you would only get a black & white image on most PAL displays.
However, if you use the RGB-output of the Playstation you CAN display NTSC games in color as you circumvent the color encoding altogether (as you feed the red, green and blue signals separately into the display).
The SCART inputs of the aforementioned 60 Hz PAL-TVs usually accept RGB signals so you would get the best image quality possible from the PS.
Todays PAL flatscreens might also work because AFAIK they are specified for both 50 and 60 Hz (in HD modes but LIKELY also on their analog inputs) and still have SCART inputs, many (most?) of which are still RGB-capable.
From what I know, NTSC flatscreens don't necessarily accept 50 Hz but most NTSC users don't care for PAL games anyway... ;-)
The "original" mini PS One LCD screen may not work with NTSC games at all (I never had one), but there are definitely multi-system mini-LCDs out there that accept both PAL and NTSC.
Ashens has a good video on those tiny screens of the PS One ("PS One Portable Screens"), BTW...
Finally, I don't remember when exactly the mod chip inserts itself into the boot process but it COULD be that it always switches the video output of the PAL PS1 to 60 Hz first (which would explain the "running" boot screen on the mini LCD) before it recognizes the PAL game (Metal Gear Solid in this case) and switches the PS1 to 50 Hz, which then shows a stable image on the mini LCD.
Sorry for the long text... ;-)
Thanks Old Guy! Some great info in here, much appreciated 👍
Lmao that Voultar reversed quote sent me! 😂😂
I have always wanted to do a mod chip, you made it look so easy.
I hope you can find a way to use the screen so we can get another video on this :D haha
Haha, thanks Tony! Yeah, I hope I can get the screen to work with this, I wanted an all in one solution, so I'm definitely going to give it a go! 👍
@@StezStixFix Yeah a all in 1 solution would be amazing. When I was a kid I always wanted one of them screens for the car trips haha
Very interesting watch that. I'm sure the same software is used for the PS4 if you've got a "corrupted" NOR chip 👍🏻
I didn't hear a word you said for the first 5 minutes because I went into deep thought about the preservation of Dave 😆
Really nice and tidy work Steve 😉
Thanks Kiki! 😍
This must be your most classic episode "The Birth of Dave!!"
Recently found your channel and I've been binge watching your videos to learn more about repairs! I do have a question - do you know where I could find info so that I can learn more about PCBs, using the multimeter to find compatible points for soldering, and general electronics info for mods? I've been just learning everything on the fly, which is fine and all, but I don't know where to really look to find some of this information out (for example, you used your multimeter to find compatible points on the PCB for the onechip and I have no clue how I'd do that or what I'd even look for on the board)
Really appreciate all of your videos and please keep them up! Obligatory like on all videos for algorithm purposes!
Love the legend of Dave.
the programable chip reminds me of the early 90's when we had eproms that got erased with light and were programable.
Hi stezstix and dave , can you tell me what model is your arm support for your microscope , i ve a basic one that isn t fonctionnal at all , sorry for the grammar i am french , good work and videos , need more !
Hi west malle! I made the arm support from the original Andonstar base plate and welded an Oitez articulated bracket to it, (Like this one: thepihut.com/products/articulated-arm-stand-for-usb-microscope). It works well 👍
It's a PAL(50Hz) vs NTSC(60Hz) issue with the screen, see if there is an menu option to switch it. Great video Steve!
Thanks Travis! Sadly the screen is only compatible with 50Hz, so without modification it's not gonna work. I'm looking into a dual oscillator mod, which might fix it though 👍
There’s no 60hz option.
I have both, NTSC and PAL screens because I didn't know how to mod them...
@@josete2k I worried he may have to go down that route.
I have the psone dvd player with the lcd display, and I had the same region issues. I found a code online to change the region, but when I accessed the menu, there was no way to input the code. Also, I suspect it would have only changed the region on the dvd player, and not of the display
"So strap back, and sit on" - You cheeky little so-and-so!! HAHAHAH!
10:33 you did this backwards... you start with the lever up and then close it when the socket is in the holes and it pulls a wire across the legs of the socket...notice the arm is down on the picture of the ZIF socket in the software...
Ey this will be a nice video to fall asleep to.
Resin piece Dave
I wasn't sure if I was watching a man install a modchip or start a tent revival! I'm noticing some odd music choices with these older videos 😂 I was also gonna talk shit on Voultard, but I'll leave it. I'm actually quite surprised he's not in the comments section as he loves the attention.
This is great content. I fix pinball boards and find this very enjoyable
Wny why isn’t your channel getting traction.. it’s so much fun .. keep it up
Thanks Matt! Really appreciate that 👍
@@StezStixFix welcome mate 🤙🏻
@StezStix Fix? Please tell me you went back and took a look at that screen? :D
It's a bit late to suggest this, but it would be nice if you made a note on the inside of the case in permanent marker of when you did the recap and modchip (and maybe sign it, as it is very artistic).
You were hilarious here Steve. I lol'ed several times x
2:11 I have never seen such an honest face before and I belive you.
Nice job the even cheaper alternative.
Solder the drive activation switch on pick up a psone code breaker and boot the console up with the code breaker disk select start game code breaker disk will stop spinning the drive and insert any copies of games also works on ps2 code breaker as well
Or for an even cheaper alternative, soft mod it with TonyHax (th-cam.com/video/8b5UX5xd-lE/w-d-xo.html).
I did this for a long time, and unfortunately this can wear out a laser quicker over time. One of the first things the laser does in a console is adjusts itself based on the reflectivity of the disc inside, and when you use swap tricks or things like this, it never bothers to adjust itself to read the disc properly. IMO this is why modchips are the best solution.
Hi Stez great videos ,where do you buy your capacitors ?
I have noticed that in the UK, TV is your PAL.
YEESSSSSS! The Dave-lore is complete ;)
Steve, can you please tell me what microscope setup you’re using? I have a regular usb microscope but it’s really hard to work under.
This is a very important part of Dave's character arc 👍
Did you ever modify the screen to this? Just curious as I had the back light fail on mine recently and that was fun to fix 🙃
I now kind of want to mod the screen attachment with a modern IPS or AMOLED display that can handle both the 50hz of PAL and the 60hz of NTSC.
All hail dave for he is born again!
I really don't like the whole "twist off" thing with the SMD electrolytic caps either. It is so much more aggro fixing a board than using hot air