Thanks for your video. I have a 99 Tahoe as well. Had these replaced when I purchased it a couple years ago by a supposed former GM tech. My drivers handle was really loose and didn't fit well. A couple of nights ago some a-hole tried to break into the truck and messed up the loose fitting handle. Couldn't open the door from outside and couldn't lock it either. Purchased a new handle and found you video very helpful in fitting mine. It was a hassle though. Stuff would not work once it was back together. Turns out some of the shafts were bent from the break-in attempt I suppose. Took over 3 hours to get it right!! But it is solid now!! I hope the a-holes leave it alone now. Thanks again for the video!!
I appreciate the howto. The wife is nagging a bit to get her handle fixed on her `99 Suburban so I felt like getting a refresher as I have done this once before. Hopefully I won't have any FBI flyovers or loud neighbors or dogs.
Thanks bud just needed to know how to replace the lock cylinder I have a 97 Tahoe and that thing works like a champ all these years not once did I get a check engine light all our newer vehicles I've had multiple check engine lights and problems that come with them 👍🏻
You're not showing how you put the handle back in there. Since there's little to no clearance while pushing the handle in while both rods are connected, I had to loosen the 3 star bolts holding the locking mechanism on the door to get the last 1/4 inch extra play for the rods and handle to slide in there.
Good video of doing it without taking off the inner panel. Other videos show that process. Some meth head punched my lock out and it probably dangling on its lever, so I will have to pull the inner panel.
This is one of the most tiresome and frustrating jobs for the GMT400. Spend 10 bucks and get a bag of fifty new inner door panel sockets and posts. The plastic posts get lost, break, or are simply missing when you remove the inner panel. Ok, now get ready to be frustrated. Take the inner door panel off. Make sure the window is up. Apply blue painters tape around the handle to protect the paint. Remove all three of the torx bolts off the door latch and guide it down. This will give the handle some play so you can accomplish the job. Now remove the inner door panel. The handle has two bolts, one on each end of the handle. The one that points to the rear of the car is easily accessed where the door meets the jam. The other one is inside the door at the forward end of the handle. You can access this through a little peep hole that's covered with plastic on the inside door surface. Size the bolt by matching a socket to the bolt on the jam. Then use an extension to remove the bolt inside the door. If you drop it, use the access ports/vents at the bottom of the door and a magnet to retreive it. Note: When you later replace these bolts, use some painter's tape on the socket and replace the inside bolt first, but don't tighten it. Then start the bolt at the jam. Then tighten the inside one first. Remove the lock cylinder by pushing the retaining clip on the bottom with a flat head and push it out with your finger. The clips that hold the rod that spans from the handle latch bar to the latch on the side of the door are difficult to remove, but take your time and don't damage it. The rod attached to the door handle bar might come out at the bottom. It's merely seated in the top of the latch mechanism you unbolted with the three torx bolts. If it does come out, reinsert it so the hook POINTS TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE CAR. If the hook of this bar points forward towards the dash, the whole sheebang won't reassemble or operate properly. To reassemble the handle, push the lock out of the way and angle the handle out at bottom and level so the latch bar enters the space available. You'll see it won't fit in any other way. Clip in the rod (facing to the rear of the car). Do not let the lock bother you, you can hook it with a tool and bring it back up. Because it's also attached to the latch at the jam, you can move the latch back and forth to position the lock, because you don't have a lot of room to manipulate it. The lock needs to be rotated to orient the clip downward, then it needs to be pushed into the cylinder cavity until it clicks into place. The first time I used my little fingers together to do so. The second time I just hooked the keyhole with a dental pick, rotated the cylinder with my fingers, and pulled until i heard it click into place.
Thanks for your video. I have a 99 Tahoe as well. Had these replaced when I purchased it a couple years ago by a supposed former GM tech. My drivers handle was really loose and didn't fit well. A couple of nights ago some a-hole tried to break into the truck and messed up the loose fitting handle. Couldn't open the door from outside and couldn't lock it either. Purchased a new handle and found you video very helpful in fitting mine. It was a hassle though. Stuff would not work once it was back together. Turns out some of the shafts were bent from the break-in attempt I suppose. Took over 3 hours to get it right!! But it is solid now!! I hope the a-holes leave it alone now. Thanks again for the video!!
I appreciate the howto. The wife is nagging a bit to get her handle fixed on her `99 Suburban so I felt like getting a refresher as I have done this once before. Hopefully I won't have any FBI flyovers or loud neighbors or dogs.
Thanks bud just needed to know how to replace the lock cylinder I have a 97 Tahoe and that thing works like a champ all these years not once did I get a check engine light all our newer vehicles I've had multiple check engine lights and problems that come with them 👍🏻
Great info. (Low gas prices comment did not age well though)
You're not showing how you put the handle back in there. Since there's little to no clearance while pushing the handle in while both rods are connected, I had to loosen the 3 star bolts holding the locking mechanism on the door to get the last 1/4 inch extra play for the rods and handle to slide in there.
Good video of doing it without taking off the inner panel. Other videos show that process. Some meth head punched my lock out and it probably dangling on its lever, so I will have to pull the inner panel.
This is one of the most tiresome and frustrating jobs for the GMT400. Spend 10 bucks and get a bag of fifty new inner door panel sockets and posts. The plastic posts get lost, break, or are simply missing when you remove the inner panel. Ok, now get ready to be frustrated. Take the inner door panel off. Make sure the window is up. Apply blue painters tape around the handle to protect the paint. Remove all three of the torx bolts off the door latch and guide it down. This will give the handle some play so you can accomplish the job. Now remove the inner door panel. The handle has two bolts, one on each end of the handle. The one that points to the rear of the car is easily accessed where the door meets the jam. The other one is inside the door at the forward end of the handle. You can access this through a little peep hole that's covered with plastic on the inside door surface. Size the bolt by matching a socket to the bolt on the jam. Then use an extension to remove the bolt inside the door. If you drop it, use the access ports/vents at the bottom of the door and a magnet to retreive it. Note: When you later replace these bolts, use some painter's tape on the socket and replace the inside bolt first, but don't tighten it. Then start the bolt at the jam. Then tighten the inside one first. Remove the lock cylinder by pushing the retaining clip on the bottom with a flat head and push it out with your finger. The clips that hold the rod that spans from the handle latch bar to the latch on the side of the door are difficult to remove, but take your time and don't damage it. The rod attached to the door handle bar might come out at the bottom. It's merely seated in the top of the latch mechanism you unbolted with the three torx bolts. If it does come out, reinsert it so the hook POINTS TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE CAR. If the hook of this bar points forward towards the dash, the whole sheebang won't reassemble or operate properly. To reassemble the handle, push the lock out of the way and angle the handle out at bottom and level so the latch bar enters the space available. You'll see it won't fit in any other way. Clip in the rod (facing to the rear of the car). Do not let the lock bother you, you can hook it with a tool and bring it back up. Because it's also attached to the latch at the jam, you can move the latch back and forth to position the lock, because you don't have a lot of room to manipulate it. The lock needs to be rotated to orient the clip downward, then it needs to be pushed into the cylinder cavity until it clicks into place. The first time I used my little fingers together to do so. The second time I just hooked the keyhole with a dental pick, rotated the cylinder with my fingers, and pulled until i heard it click into place.
No help