YES THANK YOU! I want to add strobes to my car and I was looking at the sho-me flasher module, but I don't think it has a solid on mode, which is bad since I want my head lights to strobe. So I've been looking for something that will keep the headlights functional while also having strobes. This is perfect, thank you
I have 6 auxiliary off-road lights currently controlled by a Auxbeam 8 gang controller. You said the strobe module would have to be installed the after the relay panel. My question is, do I need to install 1 diode from the auxbeam and 1 diode from the strobe controller to 1 light so they can be used independently?
What kind of strobe controller would i need to control a full light package with 14 strobes and running board strobe lights and tailgate bar but i definitely want to make them solid if need be
It needs to have the solid on and the flash patterns separated and flash needs to take priority over solid on so that you can wiring running lights through it 24/7 then when you hit your strobe switch it overrides the running lights and strobes them and you can go through strobe patterns
@@marin0ujka You need the strobe module and 2 relays. I don't remember who but I've seen someone on tiktok is selling just that but in a self contained box you can tap directly into your fuse panel with for the running lights, Personally I wired my own box up. I did it years ago so I no longer have a diagram and i'd have to think about how I wired it up because I wired 50 3/4 dot lights into 2 junction boxes then I wired my relays into their own box with the flasher and then tied the two together so I have a lot going on that id have to try and remember what all I did, but it's just the flasher and 2 relays, been running strong for years.
@@marin0ujka I'm pretty sure first relay is normally closed and gets main power feed from running light switch, So long as running light switch is on the relay feeds power to the running lights, from there the signal wire is switched by the strobe switch, when you turn strobes on first relay opens and therefore running lights are no longer powered, the second relay is normally open with main power coming from running light switch again so it only functions while your running lights are supposed to be on, the signal wire is your strobe switch and the output goes to your strobe module, from there you can use the strobe modules outputs to feed your lights. If the strobe module doesn't have enough amperage output to feed all your lights (you have too many or you are using non led) then you would need a 3rd relay to amplify the power output but I'm not so sure how long that relay would last with constant cycling from the strobe module, you'd probably want something specific for that task. Now this all needs to take place inside of a junction box so you can have multiple wires than can be feeding power (relay A output and strobe output) I'm not 100 percent sure but off the top of my head I imagine that's how I wired it and I don't think I've had any problems with backfeeding from relay a to the strobe module or vise versa.
@@marin0ujka I take that all back, ignore the complex shit I said in the last comment, I did that because I utilized both outputs of my strobe module for different patterns but you can only do that on separate lighting circuits, if all your lights are wired together I see no reason why you couldn’t use a single relay and make 30 your output, and 87 and 87a your running light and strobe light module inputs. And make the strobe light switch your signal wire to switch the relay from one to the other, running lights will be your normally closed side and strobe your normally open side, when you flip the strobe switch it will turn on your strobe module wired to that switch and it will switch the relay to the normally open side which will be your strobe module outputs. This will make all lights flash together and it will override your running lights, and will work with running lights on or off so long as the relay is wired to constant power, I’d choose an ignition circuit for that.
Hi very nice detailed informative video. I have an 12v aftermarket led strip light spoiler installed on my car. The led controller box has four functions (parking light, brake light, turn signal light, hazard/warning light). When ever parking lights are turned on the strip has this slow running/matrix lights strobe functio. I want to disable this strobe function and just want the led strip to turn on normally or may be turn on completely on half brightness on just the parking light mode. Is there any way to disable or remove this strobe function from the led controller module. Please suggest a solution. Thanks.
I'm waiting to for a rigid (more expensive rebadged sho-me) module in the mail. Wish I saw this first as rigid is only good for 3a per side. My total draw is 2.7a per side but could have added more lights with a more stout module
You may have already deduced this but I think the module that does not have a solid light function is mental to have a by-pass switch. To me, that makes more sense when switching between strobe and lamp function. I would rather do that then cycle through 14 settings before landing on illumination setting. That is just my feelings. By-pass module with hot and ground and place some diodes to prevent back feeding add switch and maybe relay.
You are correct, they can be wired that way and I have done it in the past. I just found this to be a cleaner alternative, much less wiring and easier for most people to understand. I'm sure I'll have a video of how to wire and bypass the other type modules in the future. Thanks for watching!
@@RockyXTV Hi, I came across your video when trying to figure out how to do this exact thing. Did you ever make anything on how to wire up a light to have one switch allow the lights to be solid on but also have it set up to do strobe functions. I have tried to wire it up but seems like one would always take control. Either the solid on switch would only work or the strobe box would only work.
I have your auxiliary lights on my truck exactly how you did it but im trying to add a flasher that I purchased online would you be able to help me on how to add it with the setup I already have?
Hello I was just wondering on a 2012 Dodge Charger I got one of your stroke modules on your TH-cam channel that you put up where exactly where I put that on there you said before the headlight relay does that mean before the fuse box cuz that's where my relay it is at as in the fuse box underneath the hood so basically I would hook him up to my headlight wires or something like that coming out of the headlights if u my chance having a wiring schematic I know what wires to hook it up to that would be great
Can you just wire it to the led switch without have the other switch to change the strobe. Like just turn the led switch off and on to change the strobe pattern?
Yeah I got a question do you use a rocker switch or a toggle switch if you want to hook up your wigwag module on your vehicle it to make it to where you can change through the flash patterns on it because I bought one of the weed whack models that you show him this video and I was wondering what kind of switch I need to get to be able to change patterns if I wanted to do
You said if I have a relay on my wire harness to install it after it. Can I piggyback after the relay and then run the yellow wire to a separate push Button with power?.
do you need a controller for flush mount leds, i have a inline fuse and relay to the switch and on to 8 mini strobe lights, will this work, and will there still be strobe patterns i can select, i have a button next to my switch that is for changing patterns, but took out the controller box, will it still do different patterns
I'm not sure how this module would work with hazards as it would just cycle the module on and off. This would reset the module everytime the hazards blinked. I'm sure there is a way to do it, I just can't think of it off hand.
So if i connect to my hazards although i will not be able to control flash pattern will it do all cycles like on default mode when i turn on my hazards ? Thanks
@@JoseOrtega-xn4mj I honestly don't think this would work out how you want it. Your hazard lights would just turn the module on-off-on-off and not really stay on long enough to cycle through any flash patterns. The module needs a constant power to go through the patterns.
I've got a bunch of them that are going into a switch/control box for the Wrangler. Kinda' like a big Spod, but with more switches and strobe capability!
I may be able to put something together, it will be a while though, things are pretty backed up around here. It is really simple to use with a relay, you just wire the relay as normal and put this module on the 12v+ wire for your lights. Just make sure you install it after the relay not before, this would cause the relay to strobe and relays don't like to strobe. Thanks for watching!
According to Maxxima, 20 amps total, 10 amps per "side". You would have to do some simple math to figure out how many lights of your choosing you can use. WATTS divided by VOLTS. I'll use easy numbers just to keep this simple. You'll need to look up your own numbers. Figure out how many Watts your lights are, let's say one of them is 24 Watts & you have 12 Volts (24÷12=2) this means that light is 2 Amps. Each side of the flasher is rated by Maxxima for 10 Amps. This would in theory allow you to run 5 of those lights per channel. You can see how this changes with your light choice. If the light were 48 Watts (48÷12=4) now you could only run 2 of those per channel without going over 10 Amps. I hope that all made sense. Thanks for watching!
In theory you could, are you just wanting to have flashing brake lights or are you wanting to have different "hazard" light patterns? If you just want flashing brake lights I have a video on a different module specifically made for that purpose. It's also a lot more simple to wire and it's considerably less expensive.
This module had 2 positive and 2 negative outputs, so ideally you would run a set of lights. The manufacturer states that this module can support 10 amps per "channel" so 20 amps total. If this is true you would be able to wire multiple LED lights to this module. You would just have to figure out what lights you want as left and right "channels" and just wire them together. Thanks for watching!
Okay I'll let you know for sure I have no problem doing that are you the one selling those or do I go on Amazon or is there any discounts for firemen to get these or how does all that work?
I am not the one selling them, they just sell through Amazon. The link to them in the description is my Amazon associate link so if you bought it through that link I get a few cents, but I don't work for this company in any way.
I have a bunch of these that are being used for a new switch box for the Wrangler. When I change all the lighting on the Liberty from incandescent to LED I will definitely add one or two. These modules don't work the greatest with regular lighting, but are great for LED's. Thanks for watching!
Ive gone through two of these i cant get either working correctly, i tried with and without a relay, anytime i cycle through the channels it turns off then never turns on again, only pulling about 3 amps per output.
I need to do an update on these. Mine to have failed in the last 2 weeks. I spoke with the company and they said these are a new design and that they don't seem to work well with some LED lights because of some "start overload protection" I guess most modern LED lights are triggering this function and doing exactly as your's and mine. It's a huge pain!
These modules are rated at 10A per light for a 20A total. You would be fine with 90W LED's but I would not recommend going any higher in wattage or using more that 2 90W lights. I have to say that these numbers are provided by the manufacturer, so I can't back this statement 100% as I have not tested these with that high of wattage. Thanks for watching!
I think it's just the way they have the photo on their listing. The side with 2 Red wires should also have 2 White wires. It looks like the White wires were cut from the image because they were the same color as the photo background. I hope that makes sense.
I have not looked at the ratings for these in a while, but they used to be good. Companies are always changing things though, make them cheaper and sell more of them and sometimes you end up with a bad product. I can speak for the ones I got a while ago and they work fine, but as I said, they could be made a little cheaper now...
Hey I'm just curious you said that that's for LEDs can you use regular lights as the lights for this module can you just like on an 07 Chevy tie into the turn signals and tail lights is there anything that would be hurt from doing that or will the module be damaged in any way?
I think the module would be fine, but the flash pattern is so fast that it would burn out the filament in a regular style bulb. I could be wrong though, I've never tried it.
Okay I might try it and I might just replace the Flasher bulbs and turn signals with LEDs just to solve that problem but I'd like to try the regular filament bulbs first I'm on a fire department so I just got okay by my chief that's is why I was wondering
The module is rated at 10 Amps per "channel" and it has 2, so I don't think the module will have any issue. Let me know if it works or blows the bulbs, I'm really interested because you're not the first person to ask about this.
Can you ground the lights to the chassis or the battery? Or do they have to be grounded to the strobe module? Here's my two cents: If the strobe module wouldn't have a solid setting, i think you could still get by wiring it using a 5-pin relay, a 4 pin relay and a 3 position (on-off-on) DPDT switch. Just connect the strobe module to pin 87a and the LED lights to pin 87 of the 5 pin relay. One "on" side of the switch to signal de 5pin relay, and the other "on" side to signal the 4 pin relay, that should be wired to interrupt the ground or negative pole of the strobe module using pins 30 and 87, this in order to avoid unwanted activation when the switch is in "off" position. This would give you a solid setting by providing constant power to the LED when the 5 pin relay is active by the first "on" position of the switch. And when not active, pin 87a of the 5pin relay would provide power to the strobe module, that wouldn't power up unless you use the second "on" position to signal the 4pin relay to close the ground of the strobe module. Not completely sure if this is correct as I haven't tried it myself, just throwing an idea here. I will definitely try this in the future and make a video of it.
You will definitely have those kind of people out there giving us off-roaders a bad name. I get a lot of the same kind of people diving cars, AKA BMW drivers. I also see a lot of people with lifted trucks and Jeeps that just fail to adjust their headlights after lifting their vehicle, I agree with you, those people are jerks. I have a very bright set of lights on the back of the Jeep just for that special kind of person, just in case I need to let them know they are a little to close. I hope you don't think all of us lifted truck and Jeep drivers are like that. Thanks for watching!
@@RockyXTV Wow. I gotta say, that was one of the most respectful and professional rebuttals I think I have ever seen. Lol. I mean It. Usually when people comment that type of stuff, they are looking to start an arguement or get a rise out of the poster/commenters. You shut that crap right down haha. I always try to use the whole "kill em with kindness" when I can. Other times not so much. And I'm not saying that the person who wrote that comment did so with the purpose of being a troll or anything like that. In fact, I can agree with him to an extent but their are idiots that drive all sorts of vehicle, not just trucks or jeeps or BMW's. I havent even watched the video yet but I'm hoping itll answer some of my questions. I just bought a curved 52 inch lightbar that is going to mount on my windshield, to compliment my 52 inch bumper lightbar. I bought a United Pacific led flashing module(damn near identical to the maxxima one) and I want to wire both of them to the module. I already have a 2 switch board with separate switches, one for each light. I took brought both lightbars, module and 12 volt marine battery inside my house to try and hook them up so they flash together but only one lightbar comes on. I also want to be able to just flip the switches and have them come on independently from the module, and have a momentary switch for making them flash. If you're video doesnt cover these questions I have above, do you know of how I would go about getting this done? Sorry for the really long comment btw. Oh, and for the record, I only use my lights either off road, back roads or sometimes on a regular 2 lane(for bright lights only, I mean c'mon, who wants to hit a deer? Lol) when no cars are coming or when no houses are directly in the path, aka on curves.
If you want the front and rear to do the exact same thing at the exact same time, you can use only one. Just be sure your lights are within the amperage range listed on the module (10 amps ?) If your lights are pulling more current than that, you'll need two modules. Thanks for watching!
*How many times did I say MODULE?*
just a couple but its all good
Great video man, Thanks sold me on it. Been wanting LED pods for the back of my truck for tailgating jerks. This will work perfect.
YES THANK YOU!
I want to add strobes to my car and I was looking at the sho-me flasher module, but I don't think it has a solid on mode, which is bad since I want my head lights to strobe. So I've been looking for something that will keep the headlights functional while also having strobes. This is perfect, thank you
Can I use this for my daytime running lights?
I have 6 auxiliary off-road lights currently controlled by a Auxbeam 8 gang controller. You said the strobe module would have to be installed the after the relay panel. My question is, do I need to install 1 diode from the auxbeam and 1 diode from the strobe controller to 1 light so they can be used independently?
You think I can apply this module to my brakes?
Will this work for rock lights
What kind of strobe controller would i need to control a full light package with 14 strobes and running board strobe lights and tailgate bar but i definitely want to make them solid if need be
It needs to have the solid on and the flash patterns separated and flash needs to take priority over solid on so that you can wiring running lights through it 24/7 then when you hit your strobe switch it overrides the running lights and strobes them and you can go through strobe patterns
This is what i was also asking, im looking for the same setup application, ever figured out where to find that module to do like you said? Thanks
@@marin0ujka You need the strobe module and 2 relays. I don't remember who but I've seen someone on tiktok is selling just that but in a self contained box you can tap directly into your fuse panel with for the running lights, Personally I wired my own box up. I did it years ago so I no longer have a diagram and i'd have to think about how I wired it up because I wired 50 3/4 dot lights into 2 junction boxes then I wired my relays into their own box with the flasher and then tied the two together so I have a lot going on that id have to try and remember what all I did, but it's just the flasher and 2 relays, been running strong for years.
@@marin0ujka I'm pretty sure first relay is normally closed and gets main power feed from running light switch, So long as running light switch is on the relay feeds power to the running lights, from there the signal wire is switched by the strobe switch, when you turn strobes on first relay opens and therefore running lights are no longer powered, the second relay is normally open with main power coming from running light switch again so it only functions while your running lights are supposed to be on, the signal wire is your strobe switch and the output goes to your strobe module, from there you can use the strobe modules outputs to feed your lights. If the strobe module doesn't have enough amperage output to feed all your lights (you have too many or you are using non led) then you would need a 3rd relay to amplify the power output but I'm not so sure how long that relay would last with constant cycling from the strobe module, you'd probably want something specific for that task.
Now this all needs to take place inside of a junction box so you can have multiple wires than can be feeding power (relay A output and strobe output)
I'm not 100 percent sure but off the top of my head I imagine that's how I wired it and I don't think I've had any problems with backfeeding from relay a to the strobe module or vise versa.
@@marin0ujka I take that all back, ignore the complex shit I said in the last comment, I did that because I utilized both outputs of my strobe module for different patterns but you can only do that on separate lighting circuits, if all your lights are wired together I see no reason why you couldn’t use a single relay and make 30 your output, and 87 and 87a your running light and strobe light module inputs. And make the strobe light switch your signal wire to switch the relay from one to the other, running lights will be your normally closed side and strobe your normally open side, when you flip the strobe switch it will turn on your strobe module wired to that switch and it will switch the relay to the normally open side which will be your strobe module outputs. This will make all lights flash together and it will override your running lights, and will work with running lights on or off so long as the relay is wired to constant power, I’d choose an ignition circuit for that.
Hi very nice detailed informative video. I have an 12v aftermarket led strip light spoiler installed on my car. The led controller box has four functions (parking light, brake light, turn signal light, hazard/warning light).
When ever parking lights are turned on the strip has this slow running/matrix lights strobe functio. I want to disable this strobe function and just want the led strip to turn on normally or may be turn on completely on half brightness on just the parking light mode. Is there any way to disable or remove this strobe function from the led controller module. Please suggest a solution. Thanks.
I'm waiting to for a rigid (more expensive rebadged sho-me) module in the mail. Wish I saw this first as rigid is only good for 3a per side. My total draw is 2.7a per side but could have added more lights with a more stout module
Yeah, I looked at the Rigid module for quite some time before finding this one. Thanks for watching!
id love to have that for my pods
I love these things! I use them on almost every light, thanks for watching!
Ik this is late but can I install that module on my factory headlingts on my truck so they can work as strobe lights?
You may have already deduced this but I think the module that does not have a solid light function is mental to have a by-pass switch. To me, that makes more sense when switching between strobe and lamp function. I would rather do that then cycle through 14 settings before landing on illumination setting. That is just my feelings.
By-pass module with hot and ground and place some diodes to prevent back feeding add switch and maybe relay.
You are correct, they can be wired that way and I have done it in the past. I just found this to be a cleaner alternative, much less wiring and easier for most people to understand. I'm sure I'll have a video of how to wire and bypass the other type modules in the future. Thanks for watching!
@@RockyXTV yea, you looked like you know whats up. I cant imagine flipping a switch 14 times to get AUX beam. I subscribed.
@@pillormark Thanks!
@@RockyXTV Hi, I came across your video when trying to figure out how to do this exact thing. Did you ever make anything on how to wire up a light to have one switch allow the lights to be solid on but also have it set up to do strobe functions. I have tried to wire it up but seems like one would always take control. Either the solid on switch would only work or the strobe box would only work.
I have your auxiliary lights on my truck exactly how you did it but im trying to add a flasher that I purchased online would you be able to help me on how to add it with the setup I already have?
Hello I was just wondering on a 2012 Dodge Charger I got one of your stroke modules on your TH-cam channel that you put up where exactly where I put that on there you said before the headlight relay does that mean before the fuse box cuz that's where my relay it is at as in the fuse box underneath the hood so basically I would hook him up to my headlight wires or something like that coming out of the headlights if u my chance having a wiring schematic I know what wires to hook it up to that would be great
Can you just wire it to the led switch without have the other switch to change the strobe. Like just turn the led switch off and on to change the strobe pattern?
Yeah I got a question do you use a rocker switch or a toggle switch if you want to hook up your wigwag module on your vehicle it to make it to where you can change through the flash patterns on it because I bought one of the weed whack models that you show him this video and I was wondering what kind of switch I need to get to be able to change patterns if I wanted to do
You said if I have a relay on my wire harness to install it after it. Can I piggyback after the relay and then run the yellow wire to a separate push Button with power?.
Thank you. Great simple break down. 👍🏼
Got a question do you have to wire each light separately or can you do it together as one
Can I run 4 led pods 20 watts each to one module or do I need two modules? Thank you for the video it really helps
UP
do you need a controller for flush mount leds, i have a inline fuse and relay to the switch and on to 8 mini strobe lights, will this work, and will there still be strobe patterns i can select, i have a button next to my switch that is for changing patterns, but took out the controller box, will it still do different patterns
Where can I see the tutorial on how u did the wiring
Thanks for responding...what i would like is to have different hazards patterns on my existing maxxima turn/hazard/stop lights. Again, thanks 🙏
I'm not sure how this module would work with hazards as it would just cycle the module on and off. This would reset the module everytime the hazards blinked. I'm sure there is a way to do it, I just can't think of it off hand.
So if i connect to my hazards although i will not be able to control flash pattern will it do all cycles like on default mode when i turn on my hazards ? Thanks
@@JoseOrtega-xn4mj I honestly don't think this would work out how you want it. Your hazard lights would just turn the module on-off-on-off and not really stay on long enough to cycle through any flash patterns. The module needs a constant power to go through the patterns.
Thanks 🙏
Nice explanation of the wiring. What are you going to do with the strobe module?
I've got a bunch of them that are going into a switch/control box for the Wrangler. Kinda' like a big Spod, but with more switches and strobe capability!
Any chance for a video with relay?
I may be able to put something together, it will be a while though, things are pretty backed up around here. It is really simple to use with a relay, you just wire the relay as normal and put this module on the 12v+ wire for your lights. Just make sure you install it after the relay not before, this would cause the relay to strobe and relays don't like to strobe. Thanks for watching!
How many lights can you put up to that module
According to Maxxima, 20 amps total, 10 amps per "side".
You would have to do some simple math to figure out how many lights of your choosing you can use.
WATTS divided by VOLTS.
I'll use easy numbers just to keep this simple. You'll need to look up your own numbers.
Figure out how many Watts your lights are, let's say one of them is 24 Watts & you have 12 Volts (24÷12=2) this means that light is 2 Amps. Each side of the flasher is rated by Maxxima for 10 Amps. This would in theory allow you to run 5 of those lights per channel.
You can see how this changes with your light choice. If the light were 48 Watts (48÷12=4) now you could only run 2 of those per channel without going over 10 Amps.
I hope that all made sense. Thanks for watching!
Can i wire this strobe module to my existing maxxima led stop/tail/turn lights on my dump truck?
In theory you could, are you just wanting to have flashing brake lights or are you wanting to have different "hazard" light patterns? If you just want flashing brake lights I have a video on a different module specifically made for that purpose. It's also a lot more simple to wire and it's considerably less expensive.
Very nice but i bought a set of lights on ebay that had 5 functions built in . No need for a module
hello, does the module work with a 3S 11.1V battery?
thank you
How would I connect that to my switch panel
Can this module support multiple strobe lights? If so how do yo wire them.
This module had 2 positive and 2 negative outputs, so ideally you would run a set of lights. The manufacturer states that this module can support 10 amps per "channel" so 20 amps total. If this is true you would be able to wire multiple LED lights to this module. You would just have to figure out what lights you want as left and right "channels" and just wire them together. Thanks for watching!
Can you connect this to the brake lights
Oh Man I want get one of those I like that. great Rocky
These are pretty cool, thanks for watching!
Okay I'll let you know for sure I have no problem doing that are you the one selling those or do I go on Amazon or is there any discounts for firemen to get these or how does all that work?
I am not the one selling them, they just sell through Amazon. The link to them in the description is my Amazon associate link so if you bought it through that link I get a few cents, but I don't work for this company in any way.
Need to find a product like this in the Uk any ideals anyone please ? Thanks
Awesome! Is this going on the liberty?
I have a bunch of these that are being used for a new switch box for the Wrangler. When I change all the lighting on the Liberty from incandescent to LED I will definitely add one or two. These modules don't work the greatest with regular lighting, but are great for LED's. Thanks for watching!
Do you have any link for a Strobe LED which is just 1 to 2 watts power rating to be used on RC planes
Unfortunately I do not, I don't know much about RC so I probably wouldn't have the best advice to give anyway. Thanks for watching though!
Ive gone through two of these i cant get either working correctly, i tried with and without a relay, anytime i cycle through the channels it turns off then never turns on again, only pulling about 3 amps per output.
I need to do an update on these. Mine to have failed in the last 2 weeks. I spoke with the company and they said these are a new design and that they don't seem to work well with some LED lights because of some "start overload protection" I guess most modern LED lights are triggering this function and doing exactly as your's and mine. It's a huge pain!
Sir can I ask questions, it can be use 60-90 watts? Led??
These modules are rated at 10A per light for a 20A total. You would be fine with 90W LED's but I would not recommend going any higher in wattage or using more that 2 90W lights. I have to say that these numbers are provided by the manufacturer, so I can't back this statement 100% as I have not tested these with that high of wattage. Thanks for watching!
Thanks sir.
Why does the link for the flasher on Amazon only have 5 wires ?
I think it's just the way they have the photo on their listing. The side with 2 Red wires should also have 2 White wires. It looks like the White wires were cut from the image because they were the same color as the photo background. I hope that makes sense.
Great video! It must have been the end of the day and they only had black wire left.
Something like that, makes it a nightmare when wiring 6 of these into a control box. Thanks for watching Chad!
Only thing is the ratings on Amazon shows they don't last. (?)
I have not looked at the ratings for these in a while, but they used to be good. Companies are always changing things though, make them cheaper and sell more of them and sometimes you end up with a bad product. I can speak for the ones I got a while ago and they work fine, but as I said, they could be made a little cheaper now...
Nice job. Got'r done. Thanks.
Hey I'm just curious you said that that's for LEDs can you use regular lights as the lights for this module can you just like on an 07 Chevy tie into the turn signals and tail lights is there anything that would be hurt from doing that or will the module be damaged in any way?
I think the module would be fine, but the flash pattern is so fast that it would burn out the filament in a regular style bulb. I could be wrong though, I've never tried it.
Okay I might try it and I might just replace the Flasher bulbs and turn signals with LEDs just to solve that problem but I'd like to try the regular filament bulbs first I'm on a fire department so I just got okay by my chief that's is why I was wondering
The module is rated at 10 Amps per "channel" and it has 2, so I don't think the module will have any issue. Let me know if it works or blows the bulbs, I'm really interested because you're not the first person to ask about this.
I need this for my amber pods
Hi there where can I order this?
You can get it on Amazon - goo.gl/rDmkFw Thanks for watching!
Thoughts? If I added an additional switch to one of the lights, would the controller still function for the light that had power?
What name controler
can buy where？
Link for this product is in the video description. Thank you for watching!
Can you ground the lights to the chassis or the battery? Or do they have to be grounded to the strobe module?
Here's my two cents:
If the strobe module wouldn't have a solid setting, i think you could still get by wiring it using a 5-pin relay, a 4 pin relay and a 3 position (on-off-on) DPDT switch.
Just connect the strobe module to pin 87a and the LED lights to pin 87 of the 5 pin relay. One "on" side of the switch to signal de 5pin relay, and the other "on" side to signal the 4 pin relay, that should be wired to interrupt the ground or negative pole of the strobe module using pins 30 and 87, this in order to avoid unwanted activation when the switch is in "off" position.
This would give you a solid setting by providing constant power to the LED when the 5 pin relay is active by the first "on" position of the switch.
And when not active, pin 87a of the 5pin relay would provide power to the strobe module, that wouldn't power up unless you use the second "on" position to signal
the 4pin relay to close the ground of the strobe module.
Not completely sure if this is correct as I haven't tried it myself, just throwing an idea here.
I will definitely try this in the future and make a video of it.
Great, another device to make some tailgating 4x4 truck jerk even more annoying.
You will definitely have those kind of people out there giving us off-roaders a bad name. I get a lot of the same kind of people diving cars, AKA BMW drivers. I also see a lot of people with lifted trucks and Jeeps that just fail to adjust their headlights after lifting their vehicle, I agree with you, those people are jerks. I have a very bright set of lights on the back of the Jeep just for that special kind of person, just in case I need to let them know they are a little to close. I hope you don't think all of us lifted truck and Jeep drivers are like that. Thanks for watching!
@@RockyXTV Wow. I gotta say, that was one of the most respectful and professional rebuttals I think I have ever seen. Lol. I mean It. Usually when people comment that type of stuff, they are looking to start an arguement or get a rise out of the poster/commenters. You shut that crap right down haha. I always try to use the whole "kill em with kindness" when I can. Other times not so much. And I'm not saying that the person who wrote that comment did so with the purpose of being a troll or anything like that. In fact, I can agree with him to an extent but their are idiots that drive all sorts of vehicle, not just trucks or jeeps or BMW's.
I havent even watched the video yet but I'm hoping itll answer some of my questions. I just bought a curved 52 inch lightbar that is going to mount on my windshield, to compliment my 52 inch bumper lightbar. I bought a United Pacific led flashing module(damn near identical to the maxxima one) and I want to wire both of them to the module. I already have a 2 switch board with separate switches, one for each light. I took brought both lightbars, module and 12 volt marine battery inside my house to try and hook them up so they flash together but only one lightbar comes on. I also want to be able to just flip the switches and have them come on independently from the module, and have a momentary switch for making them flash. If you're video doesnt cover these questions I have above, do you know of how I would go about getting this done? Sorry for the really long comment btw.
Oh, and for the record, I only use my lights either off road, back roads or sometimes on a regular 2 lane(for bright lights only, I mean c'mon, who wants to hit a deer? Lol) when no cars are coming or when no houses are directly in the path, aka on curves.
not legal
Will this operate all four corners or do you have to have 2? For front and rear?
If you want the front and rear to do the exact same thing at the exact same time, you can use only one. Just be sure your lights are within the amperage range listed on the module (10 amps ?) If your lights are pulling more current than that, you'll need two modules.
Thanks for watching!