I also use silky saws for carpentry, and the second angle is really usefull if you're cutting something that is on top of a flat surface. This happens quite often in carpeting and cabinet work. If you put it on a table, opened in the first angle you'll see what I mean, the teeth don't touch the surface, even if you hand is not holding it. If you use the second angle you could even cut a groove in a table top.
That makes a lot of sense. How is the saw for carpentry projects? I would have thought the agressive teeth and wide rake would make accurate cuts more difficult.
GET THE BIGBOY OUTBACK it covers all needs of the others but can also process log size trees if needed. About a lb and a little over a foot in length it firs easily into must packs comes with waterproof carrying case as well
What I like about the smaller saw is that I can drop it into a pocket or wear it comfortable on my belt, so when I need to make a small cut or trim something it is right there. Whenever I am dealing with bigger jobs where I am in one place for longer and cutting logs, I prefer using a bucksaw/bowsaw as they are a little more resillient and comfortable for longer work periods. However, I do have a colleague who swears by the bigger saws, my personal preference though is a smaller pocket saw and a larger bucksaw when needed.
The Bahco is more forgiving and robust, and the Silky is a more professional saw and cuts better once you know how to use it. Though it does have a steeper learning curve. The Silky Bushcrafter version addresses the blade-breaking issues and is a game changer.
That does make sense but still really not something I would use very often. If the log I am cutting is sitting on the ground, I will usually try to raise it anyway to prevent the saw cutting into the soil and blunting the teeth. I guess to be included as a feature, someone must have felt that the extra angle was desirable. Thanks for shedding some light on this.
@@kirbycreekmo All fair points, but for me the frustration of constantly flipping to the wrong angle isn't worth the added utility. I guess it's whatever works best for people, it's still a great saw despite that niggle.
The blade on the Outlander is much stronger than the previous model , personnel experience with this. I have a standard pocket boy spare blade that I can use as a replacement if necessary and in testing ,it pales in comparison to my outlander blade. The second position for the blade is for saw ing flat ,as in if a tree root is just above the ground ( it works well ).
I didn't know that it was stronger than the previous model but it does make sense, nevertheless, I still managed to snap the tip on the saw recently whereas I have never done so in 6 years of using the Bahco saws. I have now tried the flat sawing position a few times after reading another comment, but I still maintain that it is incredible frustrating for me (likely due to my big hands covering more of the grip and mechanism). Despite it all, this is still by far my favourite saw.
It varies from controlling invasives like cherry laurel and buddleia, through to coppicing hazel and removing sycamore and horse chestnut. Most of the sites I work on prohibit the use of power tools, so with only pruning and bow saws it really limits how big we can go.
I am unable to find a outback pocketboy with a curved blade. Do you know if you can put a professional pocketboy curved blade on the outback pocketboy? Other than some coating is there any other difference between the blades for Professional & Outback folding saws?
I am not a 100% sure, but it looks like they would be compatible as they only have a minimal difference in kerf (0.1mm). The handle also looks deep enough to cover all of the teeth in the centre of the curve when folded. Silky's website has this to say on it: "The blades with different teeth configurations within a certain saw series (such as the Pocketboy) are interchangeable within the same blade length."
I also use silky saws for carpentry, and the second angle is really usefull if you're cutting something that is on top of a flat surface. This happens quite often in carpeting and cabinet work. If you put it on a table, opened in the first angle you'll see what I mean, the teeth don't touch the surface, even if you hand is not holding it. If you use the second angle you could even cut a groove in a table top.
That makes a lot of sense. How is the saw for carpentry projects? I would have thought the agressive teeth and wide rake would make accurate cuts more difficult.
@@BrackenOutdoors yes well I don't use the outback one, I use the silky super accel with fine teeth. That's great for that purpose!
GET THE BIGBOY OUTBACK it covers all needs of the others but can also process log size trees if needed. About a lb and a little over a foot in length it firs easily into must packs comes with waterproof carrying case as well
What I like about the smaller saw is that I can drop it into a pocket or wear it comfortable on my belt, so when I need to make a small cut or trim something it is right there. Whenever I am dealing with bigger jobs where I am in one place for longer and cutting logs, I prefer using a bucksaw/bowsaw as they are a little more resillient and comfortable for longer work periods.
However, I do have a colleague who swears by the bigger saws, my personal preference though is a smaller pocket saw and a larger bucksaw when needed.
The Bahco is more forgiving and robust, and the Silky is a more professional saw and cuts better once you know how to use it. Though it does have a steeper learning curve. The Silky Bushcrafter version addresses the blade-breaking issues and is a game changer.
Yep, I do like the Bahco for beginners but as a professional love what I can do with the Silky saws.
The best saw on the market
Build like an Ak47
Full steel , very strong
I agree, excellent saw but just a little more delicate than the Laplander. I met another guy who managed to snap the tip off as well over the weekend.
the reason for that other angle is to keep from scuffing your fingers on the ground when your cutting something that is really low to the ground .
That does make sense but still really not something I would use very often. If the log I am cutting is sitting on the ground, I will usually try to raise it anyway to prevent the saw cutting into the soil and blunting the teeth. I guess to be included as a feature, someone must have felt that the extra angle was desirable.
Thanks for shedding some light on this.
I've also used that angle for more leverage for some (~15%) under/back cuts.
@@kirbycreekmo All fair points, but for me the frustration of constantly flipping to the wrong angle isn't worth the added utility. I guess it's whatever works best for people, it's still a great saw despite that niggle.
The blade on the Outlander is much stronger than the previous model , personnel experience with this. I have a standard pocket boy spare blade that I can use as a replacement if necessary and in testing ,it pales in comparison to my outlander blade. The second position for the blade is for saw ing flat ,as in if a tree root is just above the ground ( it works well ).
I didn't know that it was stronger than the previous model but it does make sense, nevertheless, I still managed to snap the tip on the saw recently whereas I have never done so in 6 years of using the Bahco saws. I have now tried the flat sawing position a few times after reading another comment, but I still maintain that it is incredible frustrating for me (likely due to my big hands covering more of the grip and mechanism). Despite it all, this is still by far my favourite saw.
@@BrackenOutdoorsПросто смешно, что у тебя крупные руки. Какие же у меня, если кольцо на среднем пальце больше дюйма😂.
Thank you, for the info.
You are welcome!
I worked as a tree feller, what kind of stuff were you felling??
It varies from controlling invasives like cherry laurel and buddleia, through to coppicing hazel and removing sycamore and horse chestnut. Most of the sites I work on prohibit the use of power tools, so with only pruning and bow saws it really limits how big we can go.
That angle is for sawing close to floor
Yep, had some earlier comments point it out. Still a pain in my opinion
Could you tell me the folded length, please?
21cm, fits in most cargo pockets
@@BrackenOutdoors Thank you.
I am unable to find a outback pocketboy with a curved blade. Do you know if you can put a professional pocketboy curved blade on the outback pocketboy?
Other than some coating is there any other difference between the blades for Professional & Outback folding saws?
I am not a 100% sure, but it looks like they would be compatible as they only have a minimal difference in kerf (0.1mm). The handle also looks deep enough to cover all of the teeth in the centre of the curve when folded.
Silky's website has this to say on it:
"The blades with different teeth configurations within a certain saw series (such as the Pocketboy) are interchangeable within the same blade length."
They are totally different saws the outback is designed for cutting wood and bone the others are designed for wood only
👍👍😎😎✌️✌️✌️✌️