Great video! That overheated solder joint on the rear of that board, can be re-flowed with a good soldering iron and flux. Then, you could keep it on the truck for a customer who is truly needy.
@@kennylavay8492 Widows on Social Security get a free part. That's why. I've re-flowed broken solder joints on high current relay lands and saved the day on over a hundred circuit boards. The components are not the problem; poor soldering from the factory was the root cause.
@@TheWilber09 sounds like the pros know what to do I don't think you'd burn someone's house down by just fixing a solder joint that's a problem with everybody in this country nobody fixes anything anymore it just want to throw s*** out
I had a board on my furnace fail the same way. The solder gets pitted and fails with age and blows out around the relay. I was able to repair mine by scraping some of the varnish off the trace and using wire to repair what had burned off. I had the same issue on a large window A/C unit in my garage too.
@@arlenmargolin4868 I can see replacing the board while in the field vs repairing the board on a piece of equipment you own as, one, you are now married to that part, and two, the new part will come with some sort of guarantee.
@@ESDI80 you know what it is is when I was about 19 I had this nerd/friend of mine who had a company hiring all the local hoodlums and riff Raff come up to his little makeshift factory and we would sit there just knocking out hundreds and hundreds of boards we would just solder for hours on end so once you realize all that makes a board work is a good solder connection and the base which is the printed circuit board part but if you connect all the dots there's nothing that can really go wrong
The fan relay in the board can be "piggy backed" to get by in a emergency. IF you do and the unit is gas or oil it is critical to use a 3 wire high limit so if it opens up it will also close a normally open switch that can be sent to G so to insure a fan operation continues so to help cool off the overheated unit. odds of that are small but if it did burnn up they could never say you did the wiring wrong. The limits and roll ouits and safetys all are in series and are on the hi lim terminals on the board. openswitch
Usually when something "burns" up it is related to a direct short like in the transformer or fan motor or induced draft motor etc etc, I always fuse the hot leg in these to insure IF there is a direct short I do not fry the new board too.
With a 67 F indoor temp I would expect a 27 F coil, the coil split by design conditions is 40 F with 80 F indoor air get 60 F supply temp for a Delta T of 20 F degrees. Outdoor unit condenses at outdoor ambient plus 30 F degrees, design conditions are 95 F outdoor temp so I expect a 125 F condensing temperature which for R 22 converts to around 270 psi. Your out door temp being below 95 F degrees can be rectified by placing news paper on the condenser coil which is held by the fan opoeration, this will raise the head pressure to the pressure a 95 F day would do by simulating a 95 F day, you have to throttle the air flow to the outdoor unit keeping it at ambient plus 30 F degrees converted to pressure which is around 270 psi for R 22. The indoor coil I chsrge to indoor temp minus 40 F degrees.
its interesting how air flow can cause icing.. I had vent filters in my floor vents and they got dirty over winter and I didn't pull them and wash them.. also unused bedrooms were closed off.. and in the summer I was getting icing because it was a heat wave and humid and running constantly... i opened it all up to increase flow and it stopped icing on the evaporator.
Something needs to be done about this with legislation. Recently my mainboard went in my 20 year old Maytag range. Broil would not work and i had huge fluctuations in bake, voltage was 50v instead of 220. I almost gave up but luckily found a used board off ebay. $100 later and my stove is working well. One less stove for the landfill and probably works better than newer energy efficient ones.
@@petero2693 I've bought used ECM's from the wrecking yard to replace failed units, it does happen. I keep a spare for my ancient personal vehicle for the very reason you point out.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I have a spare ECU for mine as well. Fortunately, there's no programming required when replacing it on this particular car model. Just plug and go.
@@WorldPowerLabs True, depending on the circumstances. Last one I replaced, the body control module sends a key security code to the ECM and that needed to be reset. This involved a key-on/key-off sequence repeated at a particular interval, maybe press of the brakes, a particular sequence before the anti-theft function was satisfied but the ECM emissions calibration was identical, came from a same model vehicle same year, etc.
When I show up some ask me where are my tools? I have a 6 in 1 and a meter, I ask to see the thermostat. I always flip the fan switch from Auto to the On position. If the fan operates, I know the high and low voltages are good, the fsn and controls too.
Measure a vent that is closest to the inside evap unit. It should be 18 to 20 degrees cooler than the temp returning to the evap. if all vents are open and ac system is sized correctly.
You can easily verify a reasonable outdoor condenser cooling mode approach temperature, to give you some idea. This value is based on the capacity of your unit in btu and it's seer (cooling efficiency) rating by using just a thermometer. See online charts. In my case, the liquid line is about 13F above ambient temperature, very close to the chart value. Check and make sure there aren't any clogged filters or closed vents, the evaporator and condenser coils aren't covered with dust and debris, air movement is critical for absorbing heat by heat exchanger.
they are going through a weird transition 23 and 410 are both being phased out for some crap that isn't really great in my opinion.. so if you buy a new unit you pretty much should wait until those new units are out because you will have a brand new 410a unit and be right back in the place you are now.. supposedly when these units are replaced the techs can capture that old freon and reuse it but who knows about that.. anyway you don't add freon to your system if its within spec because it won't work well if its over filled.. if its low then you add some if not then you throw off your superheat .. superheat reading is when there is to much fluid in the lines and it should be turning to gas... gas is hot .. fluid is cold .. the compressor in the outside unit takes the hot freon cools it with the fan and compresses it into liquid and sends it back inside... when it gets to the coil it starts turning to gas when it passes through a thing called a TXV which changes the pressure of the liquid freon (its like having a bottle of windex liquid in the bottle and you spray it through its valve and it turns to a mist) and thats what causes the cooling when it turns from liquid to gas.. but in the inside coil if its over filled with liquid the coil will be filled with liquid even at the end of the coil.. it needs to turn to gas by the time it exits the inside coil or it sends liquid back to the compressor which isn't good.. you don't get the heat transfer.. thats what an AC unit does the process of liquid to gas and the two coils and the compressor is transferring heat from your home outside .. same deal with a heat pump but backwards it captures heat outside and sends it inside to warm the house.. normally lines for heat pumps have to be buried in the ground because the earth is 55F constant once you get down like 8 feet... SO HA! yeah... don't over fill your system because it reduces the performance. and could maybe hurt the compressor if its trying to compress liquid instead of gas.................... there are like 8 parts to an AC Unit... the inside and outside coils .. the 2 fans that force air though the coils.. the capacitors that jumpstart the fans ... the compressor that turns gas into liquid.. and the TXV valve.. to be really basic about it pretty much thats it with the exception of the thermostat that tells it to turn off and on... its not rocket science heh .... unless you make it complex.. then it gets seriously fricken complex.. seriously when you start getting into fluid dynamics its just nope .. but for basics its not too bad if you only think about those 8-10 main parts and what they do... good luck.. i had problems with mine last summer.. hoping i don't this year. but i bought a cheap $150 window unit just in case.. :o)
Just noticed you said it operates correctly. Make sure to take care of it, the coil fins, air filter all need to be kept clean. Might consider replacing the motor start and run capacitors, as the age they go bad. If the system stops working correctly then turn it off until it can be repaired because malfunctions can damage the motors (air fan and compressor). Clean the coils yourself or have them inspected and cleaned by someone who does good work and won't cause damage.
@@zippythechicken : When are the new ones coming out? I have a mid-80s Carrier, the AC runs but no cold air comes out, and the furnace works but when it reaches the temp setting it makes a “boom” noise and then re-starts for a second - does this 4-6 times before shutting off for good. I was planning to buy a lower-cost replacement for both, like a Goodman, so I can sell my house. It seems like throwing away $ to fix them at this point.
When a repair guy shows up your door with this accent, a little plumbers crack showing, and a Chihuahua riding shotgun- you know you're in good hands
Ive been doing hvacr for the last 12 years in south Louisiana. And you my friend have just blown my mind with dat bic pen trick on the board prongs
Great video!
That overheated solder joint on the rear of that board, can be re-flowed with a good soldering iron and flux.
Then, you could keep it on the truck for a customer who is truly needy.
why replace junk with junk, steve could just order a new board with out having to return more than twice.
@@kennylavay8492 Widows on Social Security get a free part.
That's why.
I've re-flowed broken solder joints on high current relay lands and saved the day on over a hundred circuit boards. The components are not the problem; poor soldering from the factory was the root cause.
@@TheWilber09 exactly, buy a new part. unless you are doing it for your self with no liability on the customers end.
@@TheWilber09 sounds like the pros know what to do I don't think you'd burn someone's house down by just fixing a solder joint that's a problem with everybody in this country nobody fixes anything anymore it just want to throw s*** out
The TH-cam Lawyers would have you freeze your grandma to death, to avoid liability for fixing her furnace...
Nice troubkesbooting on this one Steve. Learn something each time I watch!
Good job Steve, Miss Molly is watching you, She's your supervisor, making sure you do a good job.
Love the pro pen tip. 👍
Love your videos man!!! Keep them coming!!!!
I had a board on my furnace fail the same way. The solder gets pitted and fails with age and blows out around the relay. I was able to repair mine by scraping some of the varnish off the trace and using wire to repair what had burned off. I had the same issue on a large window A/C unit in my garage too.
Nice job I would think a lot of people wouldn't want to mess with a board thinking that I'll just spend it the money and get a new one
@@arlenmargolin4868 I can see replacing the board while in the field vs repairing the board on a piece of equipment you own as, one, you are now married to that part, and two, the new part will come with some sort of guarantee.
@@ESDI80 you know what it is is when I was about 19 I had this nerd/friend of mine who had a company hiring all the local hoodlums and riff Raff come up to his little makeshift factory and we would sit there just knocking out hundreds and hundreds of boards we would just solder for hours on end so once you realize all that makes a board work is a good solder connection and the base which is the printed circuit board part but if you connect all the dots there's nothing that can really go wrong
Steven lavimonier I like your utube videos are awesome 👍👍👍😎😎😎👍👍👍👍
That work truck of yours should say "Plumbing, Heating, Air, & Ice Cream"
"ok, we're back."
Awesome. we didn't have to wait for part 2 at all!
Great zoom shot of the dog
Tight is always good!
Hey Steve and Miss Molly! Workin’ again y’all. 👍👍
Didn’t know first co made full size standup handlers not casset style learn something new every day thank you
Love your trouble shooting videos. I always learn something
Steve’s knocking on the cabinet to see if the fan will answer 🤣
Love your channel Steve. If your gonna say its been a couple days you should change your shirt!!
The fan relay in the board can be "piggy backed" to get by in a emergency.
IF you do and the unit is gas or oil it is critical to use a 3 wire high limit so if it opens up it will also close a normally open switch that can be sent to G so to insure a fan operation continues so to help cool off the overheated unit. odds of that are small but if it did burnn up they could never say you did the wiring wrong.
The limits and roll ouits and safetys all are in series and are on the hi lim terminals on the board.
openswitch
hay steven with cables did you touch to by pass the motor?
Great 👍🏻 video like always keep them coming stay safe out there Say hello to Miss Molly for me
I never heard Agent 86 comment on "The Old Bic Pen Trick" before....🤣🤣🤣
99 wants a fat marker, that's why 😎
Hello. Steve great. Vog. Edbonjovi aka leak master plumbing
Great shot of little miss Molly waiting for Daddy!
Nice to see something different. Thx.
Usually when something "burns" up it is related to a direct short like in the transformer or fan motor or induced draft motor etc etc, I always fuse the hot leg in these to insure IF there is a direct short I do not fry the new board too.
With a 67 F indoor temp I would expect a 27 F coil, the coil split by design conditions is 40 F with 80 F indoor air get 60 F supply temp for a Delta T of 20 F degrees.
Outdoor unit condenses at outdoor ambient plus 30 F degrees, design conditions are 95 F outdoor temp so I expect a 125 F condensing temperature which for R 22 converts to around 270 psi.
Your out door temp being below 95 F degrees can be rectified by placing news paper on the condenser coil which is held by the fan opoeration, this will raise the head pressure to the pressure a 95 F day would do by simulating a 95 F day, you have to throttle the air flow to the outdoor unit keeping it at ambient plus 30 F degrees converted to pressure which is around 270 psi for R 22.
The indoor coil I chsrge to indoor temp minus 40 F degrees.
nice diagnosis
its interesting how air flow can cause icing.. I had vent filters in my floor vents and they got dirty over winter and I didn't pull them and wash them.. also unused bedrooms were closed off.. and in the summer I was getting icing because it was a heat wave and humid and running constantly... i opened it all up to increase flow and it stopped icing on the evaporator.
Yeah these systems are air flow dependent. Messes with your pressures. They need that warm air to blast through the evaporator.
it's the other way around as well, when the coil is icing up due to low freon, the fan motor stop working as well.
I remember you came to this house before I see one got replaced since
Imagine trying to find a replacement board for one of the new variable speed units 10 years down the road.
Point autos need computers..but dealers are not required to keep equipment to upkeep them.. what then?
Something needs to be done about this with legislation. Recently my mainboard went in my 20 year old Maytag range. Broil would not work and i had huge fluctuations in bake, voltage was 50v instead of 220. I almost gave up but luckily found a used board off ebay. $100 later and my stove is working well. One less stove for the landfill and probably works better than newer energy efficient ones.
@@petero2693 I've bought used ECM's from the wrecking yard to replace failed units, it does happen. I keep a spare for my ancient personal vehicle for the very reason you point out.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I have a spare ECU for mine as well. Fortunately, there's no programming required when replacing it on this particular car model. Just plug and go.
@@WorldPowerLabs True, depending on the circumstances. Last one I replaced, the body control module sends a key security code to the ECM and that needed to be reset. This involved a key-on/key-off sequence repeated at a particular interval, maybe press of the brakes, a particular sequence before the anti-theft function was satisfied but the ECM emissions calibration was identical, came from a same model vehicle same year, etc.
Hey, I found another brand new CB201 board for $86 on Ebay.
I just want to know if compressor shot to the ground can we repair or just need to replace?
6:08
Me again.
While your in there, ever think of just giving the squirrel cage a gentle spin? verify bearings aren't stiff 0r wobbly. ty
Hey ! how much is that doggie in the window?
She's priceless ... Lol ...
Miss Molly keeping watch Steve !
Good job, nice fix!!!
Cold soldier joint !
When I show up some ask me where are my tools? I have a 6 in 1 and a meter, I ask to see the thermostat.
I always flip the fan switch from Auto to the On position.
If the fan operates, I know the high and low voltages are good, the fsn and controls too.
Hat what should the temp of the vents in the house be? I have a feeling mine is low on fluid
Measure a vent that is closest to the inside evap unit. It should be 18 to 20 degrees cooler than the temp returning to the evap. if all vents are open and ac system is sized correctly.
You can easily verify a reasonable outdoor condenser cooling mode approach temperature, to give you some idea. This value is based on the capacity of your unit in btu and it's seer (cooling efficiency) rating by using just a thermometer. See online charts. In my case, the liquid line is about 13F above ambient temperature, very close to the chart value.
Check and make sure there aren't any clogged filters or closed vents, the evaporator and condenser coils aren't covered with dust and debris, air movement is critical for absorbing heat by heat exchanger.
1:28 van security and companion ms Molly
Corollas known for cold solder on clock.. web shows where to fix joint..
nice work
Try a piece of 1/4 inch copper as a tool to remove the boards.
Never thought about that 🤔
I use a new Schrader access fitting for this.
TECH tip.. use pen tip..to change boards
That board burned out awful fast. The manufacturer should pay for the new board.
What happens when you get static from a customer ?
Turn them off like a bad radio station
Add it to the bill
if it's icing up just get a flamethrower. problem solved.
You have a lot of licenses.
Hello Steve!
Yeah don’t want it too loose, no good, lol…
Hi Steve and miss Molly
is r22 going to get harder to find and more expensive my unit is 23 years old and still runs well should i have the thing filled?
Need to address any leaks before charging, refrigerant is too expensive otherwise. Confirm no leaks before charging.
they are going through a weird transition 23 and 410 are both being phased out for some crap that isn't really great in my opinion.. so if you buy a new unit you pretty much should wait until those new units are out because you will have a brand new 410a unit and be right back in the place you are now.. supposedly when these units are replaced the techs can capture that old freon and reuse it but who knows about that.. anyway you don't add freon to your system if its within spec because it won't work well if its over filled.. if its low then you add some if not then you throw off your superheat .. superheat reading is when there is to much fluid in the lines and it should be turning to gas... gas is hot .. fluid is cold .. the compressor in the outside unit takes the hot freon cools it with the fan and compresses it into liquid and sends it back inside... when it gets to the coil it starts turning to gas when it passes through a thing called a TXV which changes the pressure of the liquid freon (its like having a bottle of windex liquid in the bottle and you spray it through its valve and it turns to a mist) and thats what causes the cooling when it turns from liquid to gas.. but in the inside coil if its over filled with liquid the coil will be filled with liquid even at the end of the coil.. it needs to turn to gas by the time it exits the inside coil or it sends liquid back to the compressor which isn't good.. you don't get the heat transfer.. thats what an AC unit does the process of liquid to gas and the two coils and the compressor is transferring heat from your home outside .. same deal with a heat pump but backwards it captures heat outside and sends it inside to warm the house.. normally lines for heat pumps have to be buried in the ground because the earth is 55F constant once you get down like 8 feet... SO HA! yeah... don't over fill your system because it reduces the performance. and could maybe hurt the compressor if its trying to compress liquid instead of gas.................... there are like 8 parts to an AC Unit... the inside and outside coils .. the 2 fans that force air though the coils.. the capacitors that jumpstart the fans ... the compressor that turns gas into liquid.. and the TXV valve.. to be really basic about it pretty much thats it with the exception of the thermostat that tells it to turn off and on... its not rocket science heh .... unless you make it complex.. then it gets seriously fricken complex.. seriously when you start getting into fluid dynamics its just nope .. but for basics its not too bad if you only think about those 8-10 main parts and what they do... good luck.. i had problems with mine last summer.. hoping i don't this year. but i bought a cheap $150 window unit just in case.. :o)
Just noticed you said it operates correctly. Make sure to take care of it, the coil fins, air filter all need to be kept clean. Might consider replacing the motor start and run capacitors, as the age they go bad. If the system stops working correctly then turn it off until it can be repaired because malfunctions can damage the motors (air fan and compressor).
Clean the coils yourself or have them inspected and cleaned by someone who does good work and won't cause damage.
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it!
@@zippythechicken : When are the new ones coming out? I have a mid-80s Carrier, the AC runs but no cold air comes out, and the furnace works but when it reaches the temp setting it makes a “boom” noise and then re-starts for a second - does this 4-6 times before shutting off for good. I was planning to buy a lower-cost replacement for both, like a Goodman, so I can sell my house. It seems like throwing away $ to fix them at this point.
Miss Molly chilling
Miss Molly cute as ever ...
Sounds like She's a Leaker Momma.
👍
Cb201
Yup but don’t mention that you can buy a replacement part for a lot less or Stevo will delete your post.
@@picklerix6162 the cb201 is first company's board number. I've replaced a bunch.
@@tbone198786 - Uh yeah, I looked it up.
Ugh I hate Titan pro capacitors.
Bad fan switch