Dr. Nine Fourteen, I’m searching for 2 - 1972 - 914’s, that are rust-free originals. My wife and I want them. The first time I drove one was in 1971. My friend bought a brand new 6 cylinder version and friend demanded I take the street corner at 40mph! I told him that he was insane and I didn’t want to crash. He forced my foot down on the accelerator, with his foot and it turned the corner at 40 mph! All the tires did was make a couple of chirps and it was glued to the street! This car is very underrated! Cheers! Giovanni
George love your reviews, and I always learn a lot, thanks. Every one who has driven mine falls in love with the road ability, the flat cornering and primarily the directional stability.
What a great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on what is such a wonderful car. I only hope the 914 continues to NOT get the recognition it deserves until I manage to acquire one! I am in the UK - if only you were local to me as I get the sense that you would be able to bring any car back up to scratch.
@@autoatlantainc.2267 hi George, thanks for your videos! I just bought a 914 and was hoping you could help me understand why mine requires 2 keys to turn on the engine. 1 to the right of the steering wheel and a smaller key for underneath? Also, why do some models of the 914 have 3 extra gauges for like temperature, etc... between the dricer and passenger seats but mine doesn't? Thanks.
@@Jack-si2pgNo 914 or 914-6 ever had two ignition keys required to turn on the ignition. IMO, it must have been an owner installed anti-theft mechanism. The second key system underneath can likely be removed and bypassed or restored to factory. As for the center console gauges, they were a factory option on later 914’s, 73 and later I believe, so most did not have them if cost was a consideration. Factory console reproductions with the appropriate gauge panel inserts, and adding the proper VDO gauges (clock, voltmeter, oil temp and voltmeter) plus senders and wiring is fairly straightforward. Hope this helps.
I am a Porsche guy and have never thought too much about 914.'s but after 3 years at 3 different locations of Luft I have a different take on them; plus now that I am doing hill climb racing ( 5-6 races this year each in a different location in the mountains of OR and WA - then I am through racing). Love hill climb better than auto X or track but my 1986 911 RestoMod-Outlaw is also a show car (Porsche Corporate trophy, 2019, Werks Reunion, Monterey - best DESIGN all my ideas not someone else) and a daily driver so I understand about how efficient mid engine motors are. - I am about design and liked that you left the outside turning lights off, much cleaner like you said. - You had a thorough review of the car being kind where things could have been better. - I disagree with you on where the metal trim piece meets the door. You would have liked it with the chrome look and like the black anodize. You feel the chrome sets off the entrance to the interior and I feel that the chrome is too harsh, to bright. Anodize is more neutral but still a presence. And no chrome around the window roller, black blends better with the black interior and there is no other chrome in the car that I saw. - You didn't mention the kind of "slobber" substance at the bottom of the drivers side door. Kind of looks like excessive glue use to hold leather/naugahyde to metal. Needs to be cleaned up. - I agree with you for all of those reasons; speaker on the door should be the best location. - Open air flow hole. I would have bought some of that German chicken wire to cover that hole. When you see it on the engine area and see it here it looks factory. To me what is most important like I said design and if the design is good that is the proof. -You said, factory non-adjustable seat belts are a hassle to adjust" That's why factory/original is NOT necessary a good thing unless you are fanatic or want a stock/original. I have had a 1958 Super 356-A in 1968, an SC in the 80's and for the last few year a 1986 911 Carrera RestMod-Outlaw. It is my car now, my design and the way I want it to look and like I said I won the Corporate best DESIGN Award out of 150 cars being judged (not concourse - and a few from custom P-car shops). My car was NOT classic but R.M.-O. Dr. Wolfgang Porsche chose my car....why because the changes I thought upend had made gave more emphasis to the beautiful lines of PORSCHE. - I get CONCOURSE preserving the past, but if all the car in PCA where like that it would be stifling. - I enjoyed all that you had to offer and will go onto another one of your videos. "A garage without a Porsche is just a dark hole" - Walter Rohrl - Porsche Development
Wow - quite an analysis. Wondering if anyone knows if the original / stock roll bar will actually support the weight of the car in event of a roll over? Best resource for reading up on these aside from Auto Atlanta ? (I'm not in the US). Thank you in advance.
Assuming the roll bar, sail panel pillars, and general structure around the longitudinals is solid, the targa roll section is strong enough to take the weight of the car in a rollover. It does not necessarily mean you could drop the car upside down on the roll cage from a height and it would hold without deforming though. If you have any concerns about that, and you’re using your 914 or 914-6 in competition, you’re required to weld or bolt in an approved roll cage.
Dr. Nine Fourteen,
I’m searching for 2 - 1972 - 914’s, that are rust-free originals. My wife and I want them.
The first time I drove one was in 1971. My friend bought a brand new 6 cylinder version and friend demanded I take the street corner at 40mph! I told him that he was insane and I didn’t want to crash. He forced my foot down on the accelerator, with his foot and it turned the corner at 40 mph! All the tires did was make a couple of chirps and it was glued to the street!
This car is very underrated!
Cheers!
Giovanni
George love your reviews, and I always learn a lot, thanks. Every one who has driven mine falls in love with the road ability, the flat cornering and primarily the directional stability.
I had a 1970 914/6 with a 2.7 twin plug motor back in 1983 I wish I never sold it!
What a great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on what is such a wonderful car. I only hope the 914 continues to NOT get the recognition it deserves until I manage to acquire one! I am in the UK - if only you were local to me as I get the sense that you would be able to bring any car back up to scratch.
Lots of things I learned in this video. Thank you George for sharing your knowledge.
Of course!
@@autoatlantainc.2267 hi George, thanks for your videos! I just bought a 914 and was hoping you could help me understand why mine requires 2 keys to turn on the engine. 1 to the right of the steering wheel and a smaller key for underneath?
Also, why do some models of the 914 have 3 extra gauges for like temperature, etc... between the dricer and passenger seats but mine doesn't? Thanks.
@@Jack-si2pgNo 914 or 914-6 ever had two ignition keys required to turn on the ignition. IMO, it must have been an owner installed anti-theft mechanism. The second key system underneath can likely be removed and bypassed or restored to factory.
As for the center console gauges, they were a factory option on later 914’s, 73 and later I believe, so most did not have them if cost was a consideration. Factory console reproductions with the appropriate gauge panel inserts, and adding the proper VDO gauges (clock, voltmeter, oil temp and voltmeter) plus senders and wiring is fairly straightforward. Hope this helps.
I am a Porsche guy and have never thought too much about 914.'s but after 3 years at 3 different locations of Luft I have a different take on them; plus now that I am doing hill climb racing ( 5-6 races this year each in a different location in the mountains of OR and WA - then I am through racing). Love hill climb better than auto X or track but my 1986 911 RestoMod-Outlaw is also a show car (Porsche Corporate trophy, 2019, Werks Reunion, Monterey - best DESIGN all my ideas not someone else) and a daily driver so I understand about how efficient mid engine motors are.
- I am about design and liked that you left the outside turning lights off, much cleaner like you said.
- You had a thorough review of the car being kind where things could have been better.
- I disagree with you on where the metal trim piece meets the door. You would have liked it with the chrome look and like the black anodize. You feel the chrome sets off the entrance to the interior and I feel that the chrome is too harsh, to bright. Anodize is more neutral but still a presence. And no chrome around the window roller, black blends better with the black interior and there is no other chrome in the car that I saw.
- You didn't mention the kind of "slobber" substance at the bottom of the drivers side door. Kind of looks like excessive glue use to hold leather/naugahyde to metal. Needs to be cleaned up.
- I agree with you for all of those reasons; speaker on the door should be the best location.
- Open air flow hole. I would have bought some of that German chicken wire to cover that hole. When you see it on the engine area and see it here it looks factory. To me what is most important like I said design and if the design is good that is the proof.
-You said, factory non-adjustable seat belts are a hassle to adjust" That's why factory/original is NOT necessary a good thing unless you are fanatic or want a stock/original. I have had a 1958 Super 356-A in 1968, an SC in the 80's and for the last few year a 1986 911 Carrera RestMod-Outlaw. It is my car now, my design and the way I want it to look and like I said I won the Corporate best DESIGN Award out of 150 cars being judged (not concourse - and a few from custom P-car shops). My car was NOT classic but R.M.-O. Dr. Wolfgang Porsche chose my car....why because the changes I thought upend had made gave more emphasis to the beautiful lines of PORSCHE.
- I get CONCOURSE preserving the past, but if all the car in PCA where like that it would be stifling.
- I enjoyed all that you had to offer and will go onto another one of your videos.
"A garage without a Porsche is just a dark hole" - Walter Rohrl - Porsche Development
That is how the 914-6 should have looked. Not crazy flares but noticeable. It separates the 914 and 914-6 perfect.
The 914-6 GT had a welded-in steel roof panel.
I prefer the removable roof because the car is such a pleasure to drive.
no did not, ONLY the 11 916s had the welded on roof panel
@@autoatlantainc.2267 Ah, you are right
Perfect color
Really appreciate the knowledge you share
My 75 914 color. Great info👍👍👍
Good choice!
Owned them and drove them all three 914/6s . Tho I was a Mercedes shop owner.
Thorough and fascinating.
Thank you very much
Great review
You still have it and is it for sale?
Wow - quite an analysis. Wondering if anyone knows if the original / stock roll bar will actually support the weight of the car in event of a roll over? Best resource for reading up on these aside from Auto Atlanta ? (I'm not in the US). Thank you in advance.
Assuming the roll bar, sail panel pillars, and general structure around the longitudinals is solid, the targa roll section is strong enough to take the weight of the car in a rollover. It does not necessarily mean you could drop the car upside down on the roll cage from a height and it would hold without deforming though.
If you have any concerns about that, and you’re using your 914 or 914-6 in competition, you’re required to weld or bolt in an approved roll cage.
June 2024
I had 1,I see not a 915 gearbox...🤔🤔
Original 914-6s had the 901 transmission with the tail shifter linkage configuration.
@@jimohara4796 yes I know,you will power get🤣🤣🤣 in 915 Gb.
Doesn’t really look like a 914, tbh