I've been installing solar professionally for over 5 years and I have to say, nice install. Usually DIY solar installs make me cringe haha. But it seems that you definitely did your research and have some solid construction experience to execute this in the way you did. Only a few constructive criticisms from me: 1. The envoy's warranty was voided with your entrance from the top of the enclosure. There is one spot on the top left to enter with a small conduit, however it is typically only used for indoor installation. 2. You could have spliced each string in the junction box and continued with #10 thhn-2 black and red wire into the envoy. It would just be a little tidier from an electrical standpoint, but it's one of those things that's covered up anyway so it doesn't really matter lol. Since the j-box was there, that's just something I would have done differently. 3. Grounding directly to each of the panels would have provided a more proper grounding with the use of the strut. I'm surprised the inspector didn't pick on that, in my area they are very strict on it. The difference with IronRidge is that the mid clamps really dig into the frame of the panel. It transfers the grounding very efficiently, and that's why with IronRidge you can get away with one ground lug for each row of panels. These are just small pieces of advice in case you do this again in the future. But seriously, overall, impressive installation and an extremely informative video to inspire other DIYers out there. And nice choice on Enphase. It's much easier to troubleshoot and has far less problems than SolarEdge. If you ever want to view production from your phone or computer, install the cell kit. It's awesome. Good job man.
Thanks so much for the comment and the pointers! I did do a 1 year followup review you should check out. I am disappointed with the way i mounted the conduit into the top of the IQ combiner box... As far as the ground, i have checked ground from a panel frame to my unistrut and unistrut to my ground cable with my ohm meter and the resistance was very low, but definitely something to consider.
Insanely meticulous planning, man, and the planning is SO important. Truly impeccable. I want you to know that teams of people are being trained using your videos. A compliment of the highest order, to be certain. Kudos.
I probably would have made the same choice regarding not grounding the individual panels, however I think the defense that iron ridge gives is that their special panel connectors to mount the panels have teeth that bite into the finish on the panels and the rails to ensure continuity. Technically speaking, the black finish on your panel frames could inhibit continuity.
Good point Brian! I am due for a yearly update on this project. I guess I could take my multimeter and check continuity between panel frame and strut to be sure. Thanks for the comments!
Thanks for sharing your build! I've been wanting to do something similar at my house but haven't found a very good step by step video until I found yours. thanks again!
Neal this is a hugely helpful video for someone who hasn't seen these components before to get an overview of how they go together. Install looks sharp. Nice work and thanks
Hi Neal. That was a very neat job and I appreciate the video. I am in the process of my own install and it was helpful to see your set-up. I do have one suggestion (albeit too late to use at this point.) I really liked the wood framed solution and I realize it is all pressure treated. To be sure your wood structure lasts as long as your panels will, it might have been a good idea to run a strip of Zip Tape along the tops of each of your rafters. They are mostly covered by the panels but, much like joists of decks are covered by deck boards, moisture damage is almost inevitable if you live in an area with decent annual rainfall. That band of Zip tape along the top costs about $25 but will make that beautiful structure you build last forever. Thanks again for the great video.
I agree that would be a good idea to protect the rafters! I really wanted to put metal sheeting across the whole roof before panel install, but that would have classified it as a "building" and it would have to be engineered, permitted, etc. If these rafters go bad, hopefully i can figure out a way to slip a new one in beside the old ones then cut out the old. That oughta be a fun project!
Thank you, if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. My recommendation is to dive in and go for it sooner than later to take advantage of tax credits. It was 30% credit in 2019, i believe 2020 is 26% credit on purchased materials.
building with wood definitely makes for an easier build.. I would have done it a bit differently planning on a very extended life time .. I would have built like I was building a tall deck.. Would have notched the posts back and set the boards back so there was a physical connection holding up the boards and not relying so much on the fasteners. Small things add up.. When you get a big wind things tend to loosen up over time. Even using metal it can loosen up considerably so always a good thing to do an annual inspection.
Appreciate the comment Steve! I understand what you're saying the the notching the 2x10 headers into the posts. I do have the 2x6's set on top of the posts, which is what the rafters sit on. But yes, the 2x10's do support the majority of the load and yes fasteners can come loose. Hopefully they hold up a while though, the nails were all loctite brand nails with a glue on them to help stick in the wood. I'm getting ready to shoot my 1 year review video so make sure to subscribe and stay tuned to see how its doing now!
Hey Neal, great job on the solar install and the video. Thanks for sharing this content man. I’m installing a similar system with enphase equipment and iron ridge ground racks and this really helped bring the project down to earth. It’s a lot of work for one guy but definitely worth it. Especially when you’re paying the powerco $.40/kWh.
Hey thanks so much for the great comment! I think you'll like the enphase system and you'll find it easy to install. My system is just turning 2 years old, and I haven't had one single issue. Hoping for many more years!
Next time just pour concrete in holes and attach anchors with threads then use some metal collars to bolt to anchors. Nail the wood to the collars. So much less concrete and wood. Drill holes in wood to make room for anchor and nuts. When grounding there are barbs on each hold down bracket and should be torqued to Mfg. Spec. also would not hurt to run the ground wire to each mounting rack.
Yes, I agree I was not happy with the concrete being lower than the dirt, i should have ordered another cubic yard of readymix so the concrete would be higher than the dirt. I am thinking of digging up the rock i placed around the posts and putting in some waterproofing and then pouring up another 1' or so with sonotube & quickcrete around the posts to keep some moisture out. I've seen the post anchors as well and considered those, but i was slightly worried about pullout strength at the bottom of the post with wind uplift. Some of the post anchors i was finding only had nail holes up about 1-1.5" up from the bottom of the post and that didn't seem like enough meat at the bottom of the post for the nails/lag bolts.
Beautiful install, although we would have never recommended the use of Unistrut, but specific aluminum for solar systems. Other than that, much respect for doing this by yourself!
Thank you for the props on the install. I read a lot about galvanized metal in contact with the aluminum panel. While i agree there could be a dissimilar metals issue, the reading I had done makes me willing to accept the small risk. Unistrut manufactures and sells an entire solar racking system with their galvanized strut, so i'm confident it will last. If i see issues during inspections, I plan to loosen the bolts one by one and slip in a thin HDPE or plastic pan washer between the strut and panel.
@@NealORussa Actually Unistrut makes an aluminum solar racking system, as far as we understand, though we don´t get it in the mexican market. HDPE is a good Idea, or Neoprene gaskets, you might want to check your code though.
Nice set up! I’m not at your budget but under $14,000 is really good from my research. My budget is super tight so I only have 2 panels and a turbine I’m working on getting up this summer. However I am seriously contemplating going with the Enphase iq7’s which will almost cost more than I paid for my 3 panels (1 is on my golf cart) and my turbine. My understanding is that even without Envoy they are worth using. I’ll check if you’ve done a review video on them. Thanks for the info!
Hey sorry i just saw this comment! I think the enphase microinverters are the way to go, easy to install, replace, and add to the array. A single inverter system also requires high voltage going from panels to the inverter location, which can be more dangerous. Good luck with your setups and i plan to record a 1 year followup video in late august!
First off good job. One thing I would change is the white wire coming from the main service panel using it as the grounding and the bare wire as the grounded. Both wires are bonded at the service panel anyway yet white is thicker gauge allowing a larger electrical discharge if needed. The only thing connected to the neutral bus in the combiner box is an 16awg wire for envoy. Just saying
4some2joe0 hey thanks for the comments! I just rewatched the wiring portion inside the combiner and I agree with you that the neutral wire really doesn’t seem to do much besides run to the envoy. So yea maybe one day I’ll switch the 6ga to the ground bar. Thanks!
I do not think you can do that without violating electric code. If there is a run of neutral ware it has to match gauge of hot wire. The fact that you currently have only one small device with a connection to neutral is irrelevant. Code requires neutral wire to have enough capacity for any current that can travel through hot side since it might be return path. Separately there is an issue of insulation color.
If you feel the urge to make something better in your already good installation you can add lightning protection. Partially it depends how common you get lightning strikes close to your house. Since you have tall trees nearby it possibly reduces that chance. Also PV equipment ground wire connectors are potentially not code compliant. I think all editions of NEC call for continuous wire or non reversible splices. It can be easily remediated with C butt clamps but since you already passed inspection it might be wasteful.
Tony Thoreson yessir everything has been working great so far! I have generated 2.81mwh since installation around August 27. That equates to about $340 or $115 a month average.
Thank you Greg! I have not had any issues with the inverters. I don't believe there has been one day where they did not work or upload data to the enphase enlighten web app. Since install i have generated 6.76 MWH, or 6760 KWH. That is $811 using my rate of $0.12/KWH. That is from Sept 2019 to May 2020, so 8 months, and those were the winter months! I'm looking forward to what the summer holds.
@@tazwhite4391 this should walk you through the process. As I stated toward the end of my video, be patient as you work through the steps. The envoy will turn off and on multiple times and upload to the enlighten cloud is not instantaneous. toolkitresources.enphase.com/en/Default.htm?_ga=2.264811145.781023084.1633483926-718735367.1633483925
@@NealORussa I was able to when I had to make a link to a new router but I did not attemp anything else, is that what I need to do? Use the system WiFi link to enable the ct’s?
Thanks so much for the comment! I have a solar playlist with videos on 1 & 2 year reviews as well as how i designed and permitted the system. Check them out!
CMAC Inc thanks for the good words! I am in Kentucky. The state inspector was impressed with the installation. We added some stickers to the panel in the garage, the disconnect outside the garage, the panel in the house and the meter panel, other than that we were good to go!
We have IQ7A inverters on our garage - only 4 panels - going to an envoy in the garage. The garage is 50 yards from the house, where our main board is housed, along with the Tesla gateway. We then have a Tesla powerwall II 50 yards in the other direction behind our shed. All works well, but we need more panels. As a result, we would like to add 8 panels at the bottom of our garden. We will go with the IQ7A again, or may go with the IQ8A - which would mean they would still power the house and charge the tesla battery when the main power is out. Do you know if you have to link the panels to the envoy to generate and recognise the power? If so, is at simple as getting a second envoy for the new location? Or do we have to find some way to take the clamp from this new location all the way back to the original envoy? Ideally I would love to know priori to getting someone in. As I would put the panels up and the wires in place, but then have it commissioned - I don’t want them saying it is all wrong and they need to redo it.
Hey I am not 100% sure but I believe you do not even need an envoy at all. The microinverters convert the dc solar panel power to ac power. The envoy is basically a panel that accepts multiple panel strings and ties them into one large output cable, which could be done with any standard breaker box. The only additional thing the envoy does is receive data information from the microinverters and upload that information to a cloud so you can see how much power was generated etc real time from your phone or computer. It also assist in troubleshooting bad panels or inverters. I don't see any reason at all why a 2nd envoy couldn't be used if you wanted to.
But further to your question, I am not knowledgeable on the iq8 and battery systems. I only know about grid systems. And the iq7 microinverters will only convert dc solar power to ac output if they sense 220v coming from another source.
I found this video searching for "DIY Enphase." I watched this video and your later, one year review video. Thanks for so thoroughly documenting your experience which is helping me consider adding a string of panels using Enphase IQ7A microinverters to expand my DIY existing system that uses microinverters from another vendor. I have a question prompted by your comments around 32:30 into this first video, when you spoke about the Envoy easy setup and cautioned to be patient and allow time for the install app entries to take effect. As a DIY effort, how did you setup or acquire an Enphase installer ID so as to be able to log into the app? Other comments about my Texas experience several years ago when I initially got my utility interconnect permission prior to them doing a quick inspection and replacing my meter with a 2-way version that looks like yours. My utility provider objected to my planned use of a A/C-type disconnect with a pull-out bus bar. They preferred a lever-style cutoff, so I changed my plan. Also, unlike the cutoff located on your utility barn >30' away from your meter, my utility required the cutoff to be within 10 feet of their meter.
Hey thanks for the great comment! Regarding the enphase installer toolkit app, I'm trying to recall, but I don't think i needed anything special, I did log in with my Enphase Enlighten username & password. Maybe there was an option to setup my own system where it didn't need an installer ID? I still have the app on my iphone and i can open it and view my system and connect to my envoy using the envoy's wifi access point. Good to hear some of the requirements from other energy providers. Thats a good point, any DIY installer should contact their energy provider beforehand to sign their net metering agreement and know all of the rules and regulations for that provider. I have another video about designing a solar array system you might check out!
$21,000 gets me the 15.5 kw system using Mission panels and emphase inverters. I would then need to choose if to ground mount or roof mount and buy that material. I use about 2800kwh peak and lowest month 1600kwh.
Hey Jorge thanks for watching! A 15.5 kw is a pretty large system. That may be the best option for you! Check out a video I put together on designing a PV system. th-cam.com/video/DzvRXU_zUWE/w-d-xo.html
Really nice work! I am planning on building a 10kW enphase micro inverter system with 30 Panasonic 340 panels. I don’t want to mount on the roof because of the direction it faces. I really like the structure you built to mount them. Can you give details on materials you needed to build it and cost? Excellent Job.
@ComputerWizMedia Warning, Long response ahead! I had about 13k total in system cost, including all electrical, panels, wood, concrete, stone, etc. For the wood, unistrut, hardware and concrete i had about $2,900 in cost. I used all treated wood, i just got it all at menards. The posts are 6x6. There are 2x6 boards along the top of the posts and 2x10's at the top face of the posts. The rafters are 2x10 at 2' spacing i believe. The unistrut is standard galvanized strut with 1/4" spring nuts (i clipped the springs off though). The bolts to mount the panels to spring nuts are 1/4" dia x 1" long, with a washer and lock washer (i used all stainless hardware and antiseize lube). Unistrut is mounted to rafters with 4"x5/16" lag screws and washers. All the wood is pretty much nailed with a paslode electric framing nailer. The hurricane braces are nailed to rafters with 10d, 1.25" structural framing nails. Then theres random 2x4's and 2x6's everywhere for bracing.
@@ComputerWizMedia No problem! Good luck with your install! One comment someone had that may be useful to you was to try and find some u-shaped plastic pieces to slip over the tops of the rafters before installing the unistrut down. That may extend the life?
So you have the combiner box, but you do NOT have the Ensemble, correct? Are you able to update your microinverter firmware using the combiner box/app? Did you have to do permitting for the rack/structure, or just the electrical?
Correct I do not have the ensemble battery storage. I installed before it was rolled out. Yes the iq combiner box has the envoy computer in it that is hooked to my wifi. I can update firmware etc. check out my channel I have a solar playlist with lots more info including using the phone app and energy production rates and my permitting process. I did not need permits for the structure in my county since it is not inhabitable.
Neal, Love this and it has inspired me to follow almost exact install. Any chance you have your one line diagram or foundation/structure plan you submitted to the city? Obviously i am not looking for your stamped copy as i can get that from my EE friend just need a starting place ?
Glad I could help! I have my permit package I could send to you. I didn't need any stamping for my utility and the county didn't consider it a structure because it didn't enclose it. So no structural calcs required either. You can email me for a copy. Daviesscountytractor@gmail.com
Super odd name for sure. I did eventually find them listed at Menards, but of course they were out of stock/no longer carried. They had a slightly different variation, which seemed similar but I was concerned the oblong/oval shape of the Enphase cable might not seal properly in the round-shalled fitting. So, I found another gland online that is supposedly designed for the Enphase cable explicitly. I was a little concerned about water intrusion since you mentioned it in your earlier design. The glands haven't arrived yet so we'll see how they work when they get here.
Neil, very good video. I’m getting my plans together to move forward with a similar install. Question about your elevation and azimuth, not sure if that’s the correct terms. What’s the best way to determine for your location? Thanks again!
Hey Dennis, thanks for the comment! I think i see your other comment that your questions on azimuth and panel slope were answered in my DIY Design video. Don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything else! Make sure to check out the 1 year review video as well. I probably need to put together a 2 year review now...
Hi Neal, Once again an excellent video and very informative. I like the way you extended the q cable with make and female adaptors technically getting rid of the junction box and taking it all the way to your combination box. I have a question about the q cable with connectors, do you buy them separately and connect the connector to your q cable or can you get ready made ones with 9-10 connected per line because I can’t find any online
The q cable comes in 2 styles, vertical or horizontal and that is for the layout of your panels. Horizontal style has longer length between each of the plugs that goes to each microinverter because the panels are spaced further apart in horizontal orientation. The end of the q cable is always bare and you have to separately but the male and female connectors. But a cheaper and easier way would be to just use a watertight junction box and spice the wires together with a wire nut.
@@NealORussa so the q cable comes with how many connectors on it?, it says 240 then wire is about 1000ft(4 ft spacing) for $30? that’s seems a little off ….
@@sangyets1 You purchase this item and for the quantity you put in how many panels you will install in that string. It has a plug for each of the microinverters, then the end is just a bare end of two conductor wire. tandem-solar-systems.com/product/enphase-q-12-10-240-portrait-trunk-cable/
@@NealORussa thanks Neal, I got it clarified, I thought if you order 27 pieces they will send you 27 separate pieces rather than in a string, but I thought wrong, thank you for taking the time to reply and once again for your excellent video.. have a good day and be safe
Neal, great video. I am going to be installing my own system with the Enphase micro inverters as well. My question was about the grounding rod you said you installed at the combiner box. Did you install the ground rod because you did not have a grounding wire you could connect to that busbar from your sub panel? I was planning on running my grounding wire directly from my array into my MSP, which is the only difference in my system vs you system from what I can tell. Thanks!
Hey Dunnegan, thanks for the great comment and question! The grounding rod has a ground wire that connects to all the unistrut racking and then goes into the IQ combiner box where there is a busbar for grounding. From there, the big cable run that goes into the garage subpanel has a ground wire as well, and it is connected to the ground bar in that sub panel as well. You can see my wiring diagram here th-cam.com/video/DzvRXU_zUWE/w-d-xo.html. I think it is better to have an additional ground rod out by the panel racking, that is less distance for the possible ground fault power to travel, and should most likely keep any fault from going into your sub panel or IQ combiner box, which could possibly ruin them.
You can see that ground wire in the big cable around 17:58. It ties into the ground bus bar at the bottom of the IQ box. That bus bar also has a ground wire going to a small bus bar outside the panel, which has a wire that goes to the racking and to the ground rod. You can see this at 34:00.
Im glad you talked about grid/inspection. I would rather forego the Incime tax help, and so away with he power company and inspectors putting their 2 cents into my business. I plan on running ac, hot water heater
And my water well.....independent of "grid" I'm thinking after Biden is Prez, grid tied people wi be forced to double up their solar and share the excess with the lazy bastards that dont want to work.
Good luck with your install. I think you can get the income tax credit whether or not you are grid tied. So if you setup batteries and go off-grid you should still be able to get the federal tax incentive, though it is decreasing every year. 2020 installs are 26% credit, and i think it goes to 20% in 2021 (but not 100% positive on that).
I Have some questions about grounding. 1. I installed the iron ridge system and ground it separately from my Enphase IQ combiner box they both have their on grounding rods is this ok? they are 100ft apart. 2. Where I installed the IQ combiner box there is a grounding rod already installed can I share that? are do I have to install a new grounding rod dedicated to the IQ combiner box. I am using Enphase IQ7 microinverters if that makes a differences Thanks
Hey Greg, thanks for watching and the questions! The ground rod is just used for over voltages like lightning or static. Using 2 ground rods is no problem and might be a better option than running 100' of ground wire. If there's a ground rod near the IQ combiner, you can use that.
Nice DIY Job. Way ahead of me. Just curious if this is a better option vs Grid Tie.. background.. Planned Grid Tie was 900 watts, however, was pushed into buying FIVE 305 watt mono solar panels. Small setup and just wanting to get that electric bill a little lower at least. Appreciate any advice or tips.
Ross, my system is a grid-tied system. A 1,500 watt system is fairly small, if I were you I would buy a small string inverter for your system, that may be the cheapest route, but wouldn't allow much in terms of expansion. If you use the enphase microinverters, you can always add more panels down the road. Also, I think the costs of racking, cabling, disconnect boxes, junction boxes, etc may not justify the small amount of power bill savings you will generate. But i'd love for you to prove me wrong!
Gerardo Barragan Thanks for the comment! Everything has been working great and I hope to make a follow up video this spring/summer showing the phone app and report my power output.
Hi Neal, This is a pretty good install I'm impressed. I'm thinking of doing solar for my house too. I did all my research and the only thing that I might have a problem with is connecting it to the grid. Did you install the sub-panel by yourself if you did was there anything special about the sub-panel connection or is it a straight sub-panel install. Any pointer or advice on the sub-panel is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
The sub panel in the garage was already there. But I have installed sub panels before for my other building across the yard. Simple really. Shut off the main incoming breaker between the powered meter and main panel. Then run wiring from main panel to the sub panel. Put whatever size breaker you need for sub panel (usually 100a) in the main panel. Once it's all connected you're good to go. If you can tackle a solar install you can install a sub panel.
I did have the system permitted and inspected through our building department but I got a homeowners permit. Here an electrician is not required if you are doing it on your own property and the inspectors know that you know what you're doing. I think if you fail on two items during their inspections you have to get an electrician involved.
Neal, Great Job. I was wondering what gauge wire you ran from you combiner box to the disconnect box and the length between the combiner and Disconnect. Do you think the (3) strings from the micro inverters will fit through 3/4 " emt or would I need 1"? You just inspired me to do my own 9.7 k/w system on my garage here in Southern California instead of paying $32,000. Thanks and again, Great Job
Fernando, thanks for the comment, glad you are doing it yourself! Not only save money but also will help having knowledge of your system in diagnosing any issues down the road! My only note on the system size you discuss is making sure you stay under the 120% rule. Meaning however much your panel is rated for, you can only send in 120% of that power. My limit was the panel in my house which is the panel after my garage. It’s a 200a rated panel so max i can send to it is 240a. I have a 200a main breaker for incoming power from utility company and that only allowed me to input 40 additional amps from solar. One way around that is to put in a 175a main breaker then I could have 65a of solar power. I have my electrical line diagram if you’d like a copy of it. You can email me at daviesscountytractor@gmail.com. That cable you refer to is 6/3 stranded copper underground feeder with a 10ga ground. I’d say it runs about 80’ total including through the emergency disconnect. As far as conduit size, there are dimensions of the cable on enphase site and there are conduit fill charts you can use. I would upsize to 1”. Easier to pull if anything else.
Thank you for the info. I also have a 200 amp main panel. I will have to derate my panel like you said to 175 or do a line side tap. I will be using 26 enphase IQ7A 1.45 amps so I will need a 50 amp breaker. My run from the combiner box to the main is about 100 feet.
Fernando Larez 6ga cable should work fine in your install. If you’re going all conduit I wouldn’t get underground feeder, it’s difficult to get through conduit and strip. It wasn’t too bad getting through the little conduit I had but you have to pull the cable stick by stick or fitting by fitting before you glue. I use this chart www.usawire-cable.com/pdf/nec-ampacities.pdf
@@Miss_Vicki I've done a little research on this and I don't believe the NEC code actually forbids it, but sheathed cable is not recommended to run in conduit because it is tough to pull and it changes the conduit fill code. I have read where code says that sheathed cable can be placed in conduit to provide protection, which is why I have my UF cable running through conduit in certain places outside of my building. Thanks for any insight though, this discussion is always good!
Very true that would definitely help on the waterproofing of the box. I also should have done that with the conduit going into the IQ combiner box instead of using the hub seal. But it has stayed dry for the last few years now. Thanks for the comment and subscribe for more solar DIY videos! I have a review at year 1 and year 2 as well as a design/permitting video.
Just the panels, microinverters, IQ combiner, and Q cables was $10,050. Then i spent another $1,050 on some wiring, disconnect boxes, conduit, unistrut, etc. This was in August 2019, so pre-covid pricing.
Just watched your 1yr video and things you should have done better.. I hate to say it... I think you should have done tubes and brackets for the posts. see RR Builder post frame construction. I think these posts will rot having direct contact with cement. bare min you should have dipped them in tar to protect the posts. but i will pray for you that the posts last well after your gone :)
Thanks for the comment. Yes there are quite a few different ways to attach posts. I'm not completely sold on brackets. Main thing I wish I could have gotten an extra 1/2 cy of concrete to pour higher and slope away from the timber. If that was in place, a very small amount of water would make it in the crack between the concrete and the post. You could even seal it with silicon caulk if you wanted to.
Hey Neal thank you for the thoughtful video.. I am planning my own installation and wondering if the combiner box is necessary. I’d forego system monitoring to save the 800 they want for that box. I’m thinking a small sub panel could do the job? Is there another reason that I’d need the combiner box that I’m overlooking?
Josh Cole if this helps at all, here is the combiner box I bought from eBay for $500 new. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F174204561841 I think the most fun part of the solar setup is watching how much power you generate and you can also troubleshoot problems and underperformance of each individual panel. But I understand saving $500. With that said, I don’t see a reason why a small sub panel to collect your branches wouldn’t work, but you might call enphase to be sure that the envoy system is not needed for initial setup or any other reason in terms of connecting and communication between the inverters and the power grid for net metering.
@@Victor00013 I do not recall what those two panels are rated for amperage wise, but the main panel has a 200a incoming main breaker and a 100a breaker going to the garage subpanel. The garage subpanel does not have an incoming breaker. Those two panels were already installed when i bought the house, but yes there is underground conduit between them and i believe 00 gauge aluminum strand cable.
@@NealORussa Great job on your system! Subpanel does not require to have incoming breaker or main breaker. If you have 100 amp breaker on main panel subpanel is rated for 100amp. I have exactly same set up only subpanel is on the pool house. Did you place additional conduit between main panel and subpanel or used old (existing) one? Thank you
Why would you use wooden posts on such a nice solar install? I think it's pretty inevitable the posts will eventually rot which will require some pretty decent amount of repair work later. As opposed to using aluminum posts which would pretty much last forever...
Ozzie, I definitely looked into aluminum posts, i figured i would need at least a 3" or 4" diameter pipe, and I was having trouble locating that material along with a proper way to fasten my beams and rafters to the pipes without spending a bunch of money. I did consider steel I beams since i have a welder and could fab mounting plates for the beams. Either way, I went with CCA ground contact treated posts. If they rot out, my plan is to put temp 4x4 post shoring on either side of a permanent post, cut out the rotted post, drill & epoxy in rebar into top of concrete foundations and pour a 6" layer of new concrete on top with a galv metal post anchor embedded in that concrete. Then I can install a new post, nail to the anchor embed and beams and repeat at each post. I figure that may take two or three days at the most and maybe $400.
Also, every aluminum racking supplier I talked to did not want me to build the racking off the ground for storage underneath. They all said their aluminum poles needed to have the low end of the panels like 1-2' off the ground unless they added a ton of X bracing and additional engineering drawings and $$$.
@@NealORussa I was going to ask the same question. Great job on the build. I will be using this as a reference for my project. I think you will be good because you filled the entire hole with concrete. if you built a form and brought the concrete above ground by 3-4'' they would never rot. I suggest you brush / soak the bottom of posts in used motor oil / diesel fuel 50/50 combo once the wood dries out. This too will greatly extend the life of the posts. it is not bad for the environment which I assume you know that.
Terry Rocks thanks Terry! Yes I wish I had gotten another yard or so of concrete to raise and slope the foundations. I’ll look into a wood sealant. If your moving forward with an install like this i would also recommend trying to find some plastic c shaped strips that would ship over the top of the rafters before installing unistrut. That may help protect them from weather more. Another commenter mentioned that. Thanks again and stay tuned for the one year update coming early September!
Thanks for Watching! Yes you can see production data broken down every 15 minutes. On the phone app when it shows all of the blue bars, each bar is a 15min interval and you can click and scroll through each bar and see the power generated during each 15min time span. You would have to add 4 of them up to get an hour's worth of data. I'm sure there's a way to do it online to see hourly vs 15min data.
These enphase microinverters have backfeed protection where they will not supply power from the panel unless they sense 240v power coming to them from the panel/grid.
@@NealORussa Thanks very much. I've seen several videos and this one explain everything very well. It is really good. I can tell you put a lot of think planning it.
Hey there! I sourced most all of my solar materials from tandem solar systems inc. 805.262.2478 I think I got the iq combiner box off eBay, it was new and much cheaper than anywhere else I could find. Unistrut, cabling, timber and most all hardware i sources locally from hardware stores and electrical supply houses.
With these microinverters; is the power parallel? Meaning when running from battery what is the continuous and peak sine wave output you will expect. Is it dependent on the size of the panel system? I was looking at string inverters, you know the ones that say 5kw continuous; 15kw peak etc.
This question may be a little over my head, but I'll give it a shot. The power coming out of the microinverters is 240v ac power so it can't go directly into a DC battery. The kw output varies every second depending on how much sun there is which in turn dictates how much energy the panels are producing at that given second. The square footage of my panels can provide a maximum of 8.37kw (310w/panel x 27 panels = 8,370w). That is lab conditions. The highest I've ever seen this summer was around 6,700w output. In terms of parallel or series, each of my 3 strings of 9 inverters are wired in series, so the output amperage of each inverter adds together until the end of the string. So 9 inverters in a string can produce about 12amps max at 1.31amp max per inverter. You might try watching my diy solar design video and see if that helps anymore. Thanks for watching!
@@NealORussa thank you, I will need to research into this more. I’ve been debating into a string vs microinverter, I need true off grid capability with grid tie in
@@__SKYNET__ the new enphase iq8 inverters have ability to run on grid and off grid (without a battery bank!). They are not available yet, but you can research and wait for them. Otherwise you can use the iq7+ micros I used, and then get the Enphase ensemble which switches from grid to battery power during grid outage. Basically the ensemble takes in your pv array, battery bank and grid condition and utilizes all three appropriately based on what power needs are, state of battery charge and grid availability.
@@NealORussa thank you, I’m not in a rush, will definitely wait for it iq8, and then research those; do have large power requirements. Are you able to run all household appliances, central air, large garage equipment (eg welders etc)
@@__SKYNET__ I'm connected to the grid with my system so if i require more energy than my array provides, i get the power from the grid. So i dont have any problem running my appliances and garage equipment. I designed the system to cover my yearly average household electrical usage. But then about 6 months after i installed the system, i bought an electric car that i charge every day, so I kinda blew it out of the water!
I have a detailed spreadsheet of all costs. Total for materials purchased was right at $13,200 and I had about 100 manhours in the installation. I just received the 30% federal tax rebate on my 2019 taxes as well.
I guess you could run one string of 10 panels and 1 string of 9 panels, i don't think it would make any difference. The strings would just have different amperages but they would combine together anyways in the IQ combiner box. Thanks for watching!
Well I wouldn't call it a waste. I still do store equipment under it. It's not really tall enough for much else. I think it has 6'3" clearance. Its main function is solar racking, and it does a great job at that!
@@NealORussa could this application be good for over an outdoor living space? I'm wondering how much water still makes through the gaps of the panels. Could a simple underside gutter system work?
32.09: The red light indicates you are not producing power cause the panels are in the shade. If that's true, you have a crappy system. Even with shade the panels should produce power, less than with sunshine of course, but still they should produce power. If they don't than, as I wrote, it is a crappy system.
I can tell you did this yourself - because it's way over (and better) than what any contractor would ever have done. Well done.
I appreciate the good words! Thank you!
The post holes are about twice as big or more than most would use.
I've been installing solar professionally for over 5 years and I have to say, nice install. Usually DIY solar installs make me cringe haha. But it seems that you definitely did your research and have some solid construction experience to execute this in the way you did. Only a few constructive criticisms from me:
1. The envoy's warranty was voided with your entrance from the top of the enclosure. There is one spot on the top left to enter with a small conduit, however it is typically only used for indoor installation.
2. You could have spliced each string in the junction box and continued with #10 thhn-2 black and red wire into the envoy. It would just be a little tidier from an electrical standpoint, but it's one of those things that's covered up anyway so it doesn't really matter lol. Since the j-box was there, that's just something I would have done differently.
3. Grounding directly to each of the panels would have provided a more proper grounding with the use of the strut. I'm surprised the inspector didn't pick on that, in my area they are very strict on it. The difference with IronRidge is that the mid clamps really dig into the frame of the panel. It transfers the grounding very efficiently, and that's why with IronRidge you can get away with one ground lug for each row of panels.
These are just small pieces of advice in case you do this again in the future. But seriously, overall, impressive installation and an extremely informative video to inspire other DIYers out there. And nice choice on Enphase. It's much easier to troubleshoot and has far less problems than SolarEdge. If you ever want to view production from your phone or computer, install the cell kit. It's awesome.
Good job man.
Thanks so much for the comment and the pointers! I did do a 1 year followup review you should check out. I am disappointed with the way i mounted the conduit into the top of the IQ combiner box... As far as the ground, i have checked ground from a panel frame to my unistrut and unistrut to my ground cable with my ohm meter and the resistance was very low, but definitely something to consider.
@@NealORussa Cool that you checked it with the ohmeter, good to know! Right on. I will check out some of your other videos for sure!
Good comment for those who decide to follow Neals direction. Thank you!
I agree with the statement
I think timber racks like this on the sides of buildings are such a great solution.
Insanely meticulous planning, man, and the planning is SO important. Truly impeccable. I want you to know that teams of people are being trained using your videos. A compliment of the highest order, to be certain. Kudos.
Thanks for the comment Rob! I'm glad I'm able to help some people out!
I probably would have made the same choice regarding not grounding the individual panels, however I think the defense that iron ridge gives is that their special panel connectors to mount the panels have teeth that bite into the finish on the panels and the rails to ensure continuity. Technically speaking, the black finish on your panel frames could inhibit continuity.
Good point Brian! I am due for a yearly update on this project. I guess I could take my multimeter and check continuity between panel frame and strut to be sure. Thanks for the comments!
Nice system. I’m in Evansville. Having 36 Mission 345 watt panel with Enphase microinverters system installed sometime this year.
Nice! I work in Evansville for a construction company behind eastland mall. Do the install yourself and save a ton of money!!
Thanks for sharing your build! I've been wanting to do something similar at my house but haven't found a very good step by step video until I found yours. thanks again!
Great to hear! I have a few other solar videos including system design and 1 and 2 year reviews of my setup. Have fun with your build!
Great job and vid. Good to see people moving solar forward.
Thanks for the comment! Hoping people will be more willing to install on their own!
Yes! I did mine at a Fraction of what installers charge.
Thanks Neal. I am doing nearly the same install with mission solar panels and enphase microinverters. Good pics and intelligent explanation.4+
Thanks for the Comment Hugh! I think you'll like your setup, its easy to install and maintain!
Neal this is a hugely helpful video for someone who hasn't seen these components before to get an overview of how they go together. Install looks sharp. Nice work and thanks
Thank you very much for the awesome comment! Check out my other solar videos if you're looking to do an install!
Hi Neal. That was a very neat job and I appreciate the video. I am in the process of my own install and it was helpful to see your set-up. I do have one suggestion (albeit too late to use at this point.) I really liked the wood framed solution and I realize it is all pressure treated. To be sure your wood structure lasts as long as your panels will, it might have been a good idea to run a strip of Zip Tape along the tops of each of your rafters. They are mostly covered by the panels but, much like joists of decks are covered by deck boards, moisture damage is almost inevitable if you live in an area with decent annual rainfall. That band of Zip tape along the top costs about $25 but will make that beautiful structure you build last forever. Thanks again for the great video.
I agree that would be a good idea to protect the rafters! I really wanted to put metal sheeting across the whole roof before panel install, but that would have classified it as a "building" and it would have to be engineered, permitted, etc. If these rafters go bad, hopefully i can figure out a way to slip a new one in beside the old ones then cut out the old. That oughta be a fun project!
Looks really good. Helps me understand what to do.
Thank you, if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. My recommendation is to dive in and go for it sooner than later to take advantage of tax credits. It was 30% credit in 2019, i believe 2020 is 26% credit on purchased materials.
building with wood definitely makes for an easier build.. I would have done it a bit differently planning on a very extended life time .. I would have built like I was building a tall deck.. Would have notched the posts back and set the boards back so there was a physical connection holding up the boards and not relying so much on the fasteners. Small things add up.. When you get a big wind things tend to loosen up over time. Even using metal it can loosen up considerably so always a good thing to do an annual inspection.
Appreciate the comment Steve! I understand what you're saying the the notching the 2x10 headers into the posts. I do have the 2x6's set on top of the posts, which is what the rafters sit on. But yes, the 2x10's do support the majority of the load and yes fasteners can come loose. Hopefully they hold up a while though, the nails were all loctite brand nails with a glue on them to help stick in the wood. I'm getting ready to shoot my 1 year review video so make sure to subscribe and stay tuned to see how its doing now!
Hey Neal, great job on the solar install and the video. Thanks for sharing this content man. I’m installing a similar system with enphase equipment and iron ridge ground racks and this really helped bring the project down to earth. It’s a lot of work for one guy but definitely worth it. Especially when you’re paying the powerco $.40/kWh.
Hey thanks so much for the great comment! I think you'll like the enphase system and you'll find it easy to install. My system is just turning 2 years old, and I haven't had one single issue. Hoping for many more years!
Excellent!
Great work. Help me understand a lot.
Hey thanks for the comment, good luck with your installation!
Great video. it is a better expatiation than others on wiring. Wondering on what gauge of wire do you have going to the disconnect switch?
Thanks Paul! It was all 6ga copper wiring from the IQ combiner to the disconnect to the panel in the garage.
Next time just pour concrete in holes and attach anchors with threads then use some metal collars to bolt to anchors. Nail the wood to the collars. So much less concrete and wood. Drill holes in wood to make room for anchor and nuts. When grounding there are barbs on each hold down bracket and should be torqued to Mfg. Spec. also would not hurt to run the ground wire to each mounting rack.
Yes, I agree I was not happy with the concrete being lower than the dirt, i should have ordered another cubic yard of readymix so the concrete would be higher than the dirt. I am thinking of digging up the rock i placed around the posts and putting in some waterproofing and then pouring up another 1' or so with sonotube & quickcrete around the posts to keep some moisture out. I've seen the post anchors as well and considered those, but i was slightly worried about pullout strength at the bottom of the post with wind uplift. Some of the post anchors i was finding only had nail holes up about 1-1.5" up from the bottom of the post and that didn't seem like enough meat at the bottom of the post for the nails/lag bolts.
Beautiful install, although we would have never recommended the use of Unistrut, but specific aluminum for solar systems. Other than that, much respect for doing this by yourself!
Thank you for the props on the install. I read a lot about galvanized metal in contact with the aluminum panel. While i agree there could be a dissimilar metals issue, the reading I had done makes me willing to accept the small risk. Unistrut manufactures and sells an entire solar racking system with their galvanized strut, so i'm confident it will last. If i see issues during inspections, I plan to loosen the bolts one by one and slip in a thin HDPE or plastic pan washer between the strut and panel.
@@NealORussa Actually Unistrut makes an aluminum solar racking system, as far as we understand, though we don´t get it in the mexican market.
HDPE is a good Idea, or Neoprene gaskets, you might want to check your code though.
@@bluesolarmx
Where is this Mexican market you speak of, and do they sell tortillas also?
@@NealORussa
Green Unistrut is good also, just saying
@@4some2joe0 you are welcome anytime down the border ;) (of course once this Covid virus is controlled and the borders open again) ;-)
Thank you very much for sharing your build! I plan to make a pergola in a similar way to mount 6 panels.
What size timber did you use for the rafters?
Nice good luck with your build! I think I used 2x10's
Nice set up! I’m not at your budget but under $14,000 is really good from my research. My budget is super tight so I only have 2 panels and a turbine I’m working on getting up this summer. However I am seriously contemplating going with the Enphase iq7’s which will almost cost more than I paid for my 3 panels (1 is on my golf cart) and my turbine. My understanding is that even without Envoy they are worth using. I’ll check if you’ve done a review video on them. Thanks for the info!
Enphase is the way to go, they are far more advanced technological value than anyone else
@@guidedbygreen1480 That's what I like to hear. Have 2 IQ6's in my Amazon cart waiting for me to get all the wiring done to click "buy"!
Hey sorry i just saw this comment! I think the enphase microinverters are the way to go, easy to install, replace, and add to the array. A single inverter system also requires high voltage going from panels to the inverter location, which can be more dangerous. Good luck with your setups and i plan to record a 1 year followup video in late august!
First off good job.
One thing I would change is the white wire coming from the main service panel using it as the grounding and the bare wire as the grounded.
Both wires are bonded at the service panel anyway yet white is thicker gauge allowing a larger electrical discharge if needed.
The only thing connected to the neutral bus in the combiner box is an 16awg wire for envoy.
Just saying
4some2joe0 hey thanks for the comments! I just rewatched the wiring portion inside the combiner and I agree with you that the neutral wire really doesn’t seem to do much besides run to the envoy. So yea maybe one day I’ll switch the 6ga to the ground bar. Thanks!
@@NealORussa
Cool, stay safe out there brotha.
And as we say out there "don't loose your neutral"
I do not think you can do that without violating electric code. If there is a run of neutral ware it has to match gauge of hot wire. The fact that you currently have only one small device with a connection to neutral is irrelevant. Code requires neutral wire to have enough capacity for any current that can travel through hot side since it might be return path. Separately there is an issue of insulation color.
William Peck appreciate your insight and information! I’ll leave it as is. Haven’t had any issues yet!
If you feel the urge to make something better in your already good installation you can add lightning protection. Partially it depends how common you get lightning strikes close to your house. Since you have tall trees nearby it possibly reduces that chance.
Also PV equipment ground wire connectors are potentially not code compliant. I think all editions of NEC call for continuous wire or non reversible splices. It can be easily remediated with C butt clamps but since you already passed inspection it might be wasteful.
looks great. it will ground if the bolt/nut bit through the anodizing on the panel frames.
Tony Thoreson yessir everything has been working great so far! I have generated 2.81mwh since installation around August 27. That equates to about $340 or $115 a month average.
Nice install Neal, I'm thinking about installing the enphase inverters have you had any trouble out of any of them.
Thank you Greg! I have not had any issues with the inverters. I don't believe there has been one day where they did not work or upload data to the enphase enlighten web app. Since install i have generated 6.76 MWH, or 6760 KWH. That is $811 using my rate of $0.12/KWH. That is from Sept 2019 to May 2020, so 8 months, and those were the winter months! I'm looking forward to what the summer holds.
I like your frame! You should install the consumption CT’s, lots more info! Great job!!!
Thanks for the comment taz! Would like to put in the consumptions but my main panel is so darn far from the envoy lol! Do you have them installed?
@@NealORussa I just installed them but don’t understand the enphase tool kit enough to activate them!
@@tazwhite4391 are you able to connect your phone to the envoy with the adhoc WiFi?
@@tazwhite4391 this should walk you through the process. As I stated toward the end of my video, be patient as you work through the steps. The envoy will turn off and on multiple times and upload to the enlighten cloud is not instantaneous. toolkitresources.enphase.com/en/Default.htm?_ga=2.264811145.781023084.1633483926-718735367.1633483925
@@NealORussa I was able to when I had to make a link to a new router but I did not attemp anything else, is that what I need to do? Use the system WiFi link to enable the ct’s?
Good job. Thanks for sharing
Thanks so much for the comment! I have a solar playlist with videos on 1 & 2 year reviews as well as how i designed and permitted the system. Check them out!
Great overview for a DIY person. Did the inspector give any hints? Also what state are you in.
CMAC Inc thanks for the good words! I am in Kentucky. The state inspector was impressed with the installation. We added some stickers to the panel in the garage, the disconnect outside the garage, the panel in the house and the meter panel, other than that we were good to go!
excellent job
We have IQ7A inverters on our garage - only 4 panels - going to an envoy in the garage. The garage is 50 yards from the house, where our main board is housed, along with the Tesla gateway. We then have a Tesla powerwall II 50 yards in the other direction behind our shed. All works well, but we need more panels. As a result, we would like to add 8 panels at the bottom of our garden. We will go with the IQ7A again, or may go with the IQ8A - which would mean they would still power the house and charge the tesla battery when the main power is out.
Do you know if you have to link the panels to the envoy to generate and recognise the power? If so, is at simple as getting a second envoy for the new location? Or do we have to find some way to take the clamp from this new location all the way back to the original envoy?
Ideally I would love to know priori to getting someone in. As I would put the panels up and the wires in place, but then have it commissioned - I don’t want them saying it is all wrong and they need to redo it.
Hey I am not 100% sure but I believe you do not even need an envoy at all. The microinverters convert the dc solar panel power to ac power. The envoy is basically a panel that accepts multiple panel strings and ties them into one large output cable, which could be done with any standard breaker box. The only additional thing the envoy does is receive data information from the microinverters and upload that information to a cloud so you can see how much power was generated etc real time from your phone or computer. It also assist in troubleshooting bad panels or inverters.
I don't see any reason at all why a 2nd envoy couldn't be used if you wanted to.
But further to your question, I am not knowledgeable on the iq8 and battery systems. I only know about grid systems. And the iq7 microinverters will only convert dc solar power to ac output if they sense 220v coming from another source.
I found this video searching for "DIY Enphase." I watched this video and your later, one year review video. Thanks for so thoroughly documenting your experience which is helping me consider adding a string of panels using Enphase IQ7A microinverters to expand my DIY existing system that uses microinverters from another vendor.
I have a question prompted by your comments around 32:30 into this first video, when you spoke about the Envoy easy setup and cautioned to be patient and allow time for the install app entries to take effect. As a DIY effort, how did you setup or acquire an Enphase installer ID so as to be able to log into the app?
Other comments about my Texas experience several years ago when I initially got my utility interconnect permission prior to them doing a quick inspection and replacing my meter with a 2-way version that looks like yours. My utility provider objected to my planned use of a A/C-type disconnect with a pull-out bus bar. They preferred a lever-style cutoff, so I changed my plan. Also, unlike the cutoff located on your utility barn >30' away from your meter, my utility required the cutoff to be within 10 feet of their meter.
Hey thanks for the great comment! Regarding the enphase installer toolkit app, I'm trying to recall, but I don't think i needed anything special, I did log in with my Enphase Enlighten username & password. Maybe there was an option to setup my own system where it didn't need an installer ID? I still have the app on my iphone and i can open it and view my system and connect to my envoy using the envoy's wifi access point.
Good to hear some of the requirements from other energy providers. Thats a good point, any DIY installer should contact their energy provider beforehand to sign their net metering agreement and know all of the rules and regulations for that provider. I have another video about designing a solar array system you might check out!
@@NealORussa What courses and tests do I need to pass to acquire an installer ID?
@@tohbw5963 I'm not sure, I didn't have an Installer ID but i was able to setup my system with the installer toolkit app without any issues.
love the diy post build
Thanks for watching, I appreciate the comment! Make sure to subscribe to my channel & check out some of my other excavating and construction videos!
$21,000 gets me the 15.5 kw system using Mission panels and emphase inverters. I would then need to choose if to ground mount or roof mount and buy that material. I use about 2800kwh peak and lowest month 1600kwh.
Hey Jorge thanks for watching! A 15.5 kw is a pretty large system. That may be the best option for you! Check out a video I put together on designing a PV system. th-cam.com/video/DzvRXU_zUWE/w-d-xo.html
Also, if you check out my channel there is another video on a 1 year review of my Enphase system.
Great info.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and keep an eye out for the 1 year review!
Good stuff... Gorgeous property
Thank you very much, we like it out here in Western KY!
Really nice work! I am planning on building a 10kW enphase micro inverter system with 30 Panasonic 340 panels. I don’t want to mount on the roof because of the direction it faces. I really like the structure you built to mount them. Can you give details on materials you needed to build it and cost?
Excellent Job.
@ComputerWizMedia Warning, Long response ahead! I had about 13k total in system cost, including all electrical, panels, wood, concrete, stone, etc. For the wood, unistrut, hardware and concrete i had about $2,900 in cost. I used all treated wood, i just got it all at menards. The posts are 6x6. There are 2x6 boards along the top of the posts and 2x10's at the top face of the posts. The rafters are 2x10 at 2' spacing i believe. The unistrut is standard galvanized strut with 1/4" spring nuts (i clipped the springs off though). The bolts to mount the panels to spring nuts are 1/4" dia x 1" long, with a washer and lock washer (i used all stainless hardware and antiseize lube). Unistrut is mounted to rafters with 4"x5/16" lag screws and washers. All the wood is pretty much nailed with a paslode electric framing nailer. The hurricane braces are nailed to rafters with 10d, 1.25" structural framing nails. Then theres random 2x4's and 2x6's everywhere for bracing.
Wow, great info. Thank you very much for the detail.
@@ComputerWizMedia No problem! Good luck with your install! One comment someone had that may be useful to you was to try and find some u-shaped plastic pieces to slip over the tops of the rafters before installing the unistrut down. That may extend the life?
You sir are a G!
I'll take that as a compliment! Thanks for watching check out my channel and subscribe for more!
@@NealORussa lol.. yeah that's the ultimate compliment
So you have the combiner box, but you do NOT have the Ensemble, correct? Are you able to update your microinverter firmware using the combiner box/app? Did you have to do permitting for the rack/structure, or just the electrical?
Correct I do not have the ensemble battery storage. I installed before it was rolled out. Yes the iq combiner box has the envoy computer in it that is hooked to my wifi. I can update firmware etc. check out my channel I have a solar playlist with lots more info including using the phone app and energy production rates and my permitting process. I did not need permits for the structure in my county since it is not inhabitable.
@@NealORussa Thank you!
Neal,
Love this and it has inspired me to follow almost exact install. Any chance you have your one line diagram or foundation/structure plan you submitted to the city? Obviously i am not looking for your stamped copy as i can get that from my EE friend just need a starting place ?
Glad I could help! I have my permit package I could send to you. I didn't need any stamping for my utility and the county didn't consider it a structure because it didn't enclose it. So no structural calcs required either. You can email me for a copy. Daviesscountytractor@gmail.com
I also have a video on designing a PV system, so check that out if you haven't already!
Great video series! May I ask, where did you get the 3/4" watertight fittings for the PVC enclosure? Im having trouble finding them.
Thanks for the comment! They actually just came from Menards.
They're called "cable gland" which is a really odd name in my opinion
Super odd name for sure. I did eventually find them listed at Menards, but of course they were out of stock/no longer carried.
They had a slightly different variation, which seemed similar but I was concerned the oblong/oval shape of the Enphase cable might not seal properly in the round-shalled fitting. So, I found another gland online that is supposedly designed for the Enphase cable explicitly.
I was a little concerned about water intrusion since you mentioned it in your earlier design. The glands haven't arrived yet so we'll see how they work when they get here.
@@sanchezcruz20 yes put them in the bottom of the box if you can. I did side and it was ok, but bottom would be best.
Neil, very good video. I’m getting my plans together to move forward with a similar install. Question about your elevation and azimuth, not sure if that’s the correct terms. What’s the best way to determine for your location? Thanks again!
Hey Dennis, thanks for the comment! I think i see your other comment that your questions on azimuth and panel slope were answered in my DIY Design video. Don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything else! Make sure to check out the 1 year review video as well. I probably need to put together a 2 year review now...
Very helpful! Thank you.
No problem, thanks for the great comment! Make sure to check out my other solar videos if you're considering an install yourself
Hi Neal,
Once again an excellent video and very informative.
I like the way you extended the q cable with make and female adaptors technically getting rid of the junction box and taking it all the way to your combination box.
I have a question about the q cable with connectors, do you buy them separately and connect the connector to your q cable or can you get ready made ones with 9-10 connected per line because I can’t find any online
The q cable comes in 2 styles, vertical or horizontal and that is for the layout of your panels. Horizontal style has longer length between each of the plugs that goes to each microinverter because the panels are spaced further apart in horizontal orientation. The end of the q cable is always bare and you have to separately but the male and female connectors. But a cheaper and easier way would be to just use a watertight junction box and spice the wires together with a wire nut.
@@NealORussa so the q cable comes with how many connectors on it?, it says 240 then wire is about 1000ft(4 ft spacing) for $30? that’s seems a little off ….
@@sangyets1 You purchase this item and for the quantity you put in how many panels you will install in that string. It has a plug for each of the microinverters, then the end is just a bare end of two conductor wire. tandem-solar-systems.com/product/enphase-q-12-10-240-portrait-trunk-cable/
@@NealORussa thanks Neal, I got it clarified, I thought if you order 27 pieces they will send you 27 separate pieces rather than in a string, but I thought wrong, thank you for taking the time to reply and once again for your excellent video.. have a good day and be safe
Hi, what metal rails (brand / type) did u use and how did you fix them to the wooden beams?
I used standard galvanized unistrut. I mounted the unistrut to the rafters with HSS screws.
Check out the video at 14:20
Neal, great video. I am going to be installing my own system with the Enphase micro inverters as well. My question was about the grounding rod you said you installed at the combiner box. Did you install the ground rod because you did not have a grounding wire you could connect to that busbar from your sub panel? I was planning on running my grounding wire directly from my array into my MSP, which is the only difference in my system vs you system from what I can tell. Thanks!
Hey Dunnegan, thanks for the great comment and question! The grounding rod has a ground wire that connects to all the unistrut racking and then goes into the IQ combiner box where there is a busbar for grounding. From there, the big cable run that goes into the garage subpanel has a ground wire as well, and it is connected to the ground bar in that sub panel as well. You can see my wiring diagram here th-cam.com/video/DzvRXU_zUWE/w-d-xo.html. I think it is better to have an additional ground rod out by the panel racking, that is less distance for the possible ground fault power to travel, and should most likely keep any fault from going into your sub panel or IQ combiner box, which could possibly ruin them.
You can see that ground wire in the big cable around 17:58. It ties into the ground bus bar at the bottom of the IQ box. That bus bar also has a ground wire going to a small bus bar outside the panel, which has a wire that goes to the racking and to the ground rod. You can see this at 34:00.
You size breakers for the size of the wires.
Im glad you talked about grid/inspection.
I would rather forego the Incime tax help, and so away with he power company and inspectors putting their 2 cents into my business.
I plan on running ac, hot water heater
And my water well.....independent of "grid"
I'm thinking after Biden is Prez, grid tied people wi be forced to double up their solar and share the excess with the lazy bastards that dont want to work.
Good luck with your install. I think you can get the income tax credit whether or not you are grid tied. So if you setup batteries and go off-grid you should still be able to get the federal tax incentive, though it is decreasing every year. 2020 installs are 26% credit, and i think it goes to 20% in 2021 (but not 100% positive on that).
I Have some questions about grounding. 1. I installed the iron ridge system and ground it separately from my Enphase IQ combiner box they both have their on grounding rods is this ok? they are 100ft apart. 2. Where I installed the IQ combiner box there is a grounding rod already installed can I share that? are do I have to install a new grounding rod dedicated to the IQ combiner box. I am using Enphase IQ7 microinverters if that makes a differences Thanks
Hey Greg, thanks for watching and the questions! The ground rod is just used for over voltages like lightning or static. Using 2 ground rods is no problem and might be a better option than running 100' of ground wire. If there's a ground rod near the IQ combiner, you can use that.
Nice DIY Job. Way ahead of me. Just curious if this is a better option vs Grid Tie..
background.. Planned Grid Tie was 900 watts, however, was pushed into buying FIVE 305 watt mono solar panels. Small setup and just wanting to get that electric bill a little lower at least. Appreciate any advice or tips.
Ross, my system is a grid-tied system. A 1,500 watt system is fairly small, if I were you I would buy a small string inverter for your system, that may be the cheapest route, but wouldn't allow much in terms of expansion. If you use the enphase microinverters, you can always add more panels down the road. Also, I think the costs of racking, cabling, disconnect boxes, junction boxes, etc may not justify the small amount of power bill savings you will generate. But i'd love for you to prove me wrong!
@@NealORussa I keep seeing deals for misc solar items used. Right trails for $5
Great video 👍
Gerardo Barragan Thanks for the comment! Everything has been working great and I hope to make a follow up video this spring/summer showing the phone app and report my power output.
Hi Neal, This is a pretty good install I'm impressed. I'm thinking of doing solar for my house too. I did all my research and the only thing that I might have a problem with is connecting it to the grid. Did you install the sub-panel by yourself if you did was there anything special about the sub-panel connection or is it a straight sub-panel install. Any pointer or advice on the sub-panel is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
The sub panel in the garage was already there. But I have installed sub panels before for my other building across the yard. Simple really. Shut off the main incoming breaker between the powered meter and main panel. Then run wiring from main panel to the sub panel. Put whatever size breaker you need for sub panel (usually 100a) in the main panel. Once it's all connected you're good to go. If you can tackle a solar install you can install a sub panel.
Are you required to have an electrician license to install this? Does the city/county require this?
I did have the system permitted and inspected through our building department but I got a homeowners permit. Here an electrician is not required if you are doing it on your own property and the inspectors know that you know what you're doing. I think if you fail on two items during their inspections you have to get an electrician involved.
Neal, Great Job. I was wondering what gauge wire you ran from you combiner box to the disconnect box and the length between the combiner and Disconnect. Do you think the (3) strings from the micro inverters will fit through 3/4 " emt or would I need 1"? You just inspired me to do my own 9.7 k/w system on my garage here in Southern California instead of paying $32,000. Thanks and again, Great Job
Fernando, thanks for the comment, glad you are doing it yourself! Not only save money but also will help having knowledge of your system in diagnosing any issues down the road! My only note on the system size you discuss is making sure you stay under the 120% rule. Meaning however much your panel is rated for, you can only send in 120% of that power. My limit was the panel in my house which is the panel after my garage. It’s a 200a rated panel so max i can send to it is 240a. I have a 200a main breaker for incoming power from utility company and that only allowed me to input 40 additional amps from solar. One way around that is to put in a 175a main breaker then I could have 65a of solar power. I have my electrical line diagram if you’d like a copy of it. You can email me at daviesscountytractor@gmail.com.
That cable you refer to is 6/3 stranded copper underground feeder with a 10ga ground. I’d say it runs about 80’ total including through the emergency disconnect. As far as conduit size, there are dimensions of the cable on enphase site and there are conduit fill charts you can use. I would upsize to 1”. Easier to pull if anything else.
Thank you for the info. I also have a 200 amp main panel. I will have to derate my panel like you said to 175 or do a line side tap. I will be using 26 enphase IQ7A 1.45 amps so I will need a 50 amp breaker. My run from the combiner box to the main is about 100 feet.
Fernando Larez 6ga cable should work fine in your install. If you’re going all conduit I wouldn’t get underground feeder, it’s difficult to get through conduit and strip. It wasn’t too bad getting through the little conduit I had but you have to pull the cable stick by stick or fitting by fitting before you glue. I use this chart www.usawire-cable.com/pdf/nec-ampacities.pdf
@@NealORussa not to mention that any sheathed cable is forbidden inside conduit, loose conductors only.
@@Miss_Vicki I've done a little research on this and I don't believe the NEC code actually forbids it, but sheathed cable is not recommended to run in conduit because it is tough to pull and it changes the conduit fill code. I have read where code says that sheathed cable can be placed in conduit to provide protection, which is why I have my UF cable running through conduit in certain places outside of my building. Thanks for any insight though, this discussion is always good!
Loop your cords down below the box to shed drips.
Yes that would be very wise!
You need a drip loop where those wires go into the side of that box
Very true that would definitely help on the waterproofing of the box. I also should have done that with the conduit going into the IQ combiner box instead of using the hub seal. But it has stayed dry for the last few years now. Thanks for the comment and subscribe for more solar DIY videos! I have a review at year 1 and year 2 as well as a design/permitting video.
Great build but your inverters are rated at 295w so your system is closer to 7.96kw
Add the 1 yr follow up link in the description. Plus it will give you more views
Thanks for the heads up! I thought it was in there but I will definitely add it!
@@NealORussa my apologies. It's at the top. I obviously need glasses
@@tluva1020 no I just added it lol
How much did all the solar stuff cost I already have the wood.
Just the panels, microinverters, IQ combiner, and Q cables was $10,050. Then i spent another $1,050 on some wiring, disconnect boxes, conduit, unistrut, etc. This was in August 2019, so pre-covid pricing.
Just watched your 1yr video and things you should have done better.. I hate to say it... I think you should have done tubes and brackets for the posts. see RR Builder post frame construction. I think these posts will rot having direct contact with cement. bare min you should have dipped them in tar to protect the posts. but i will pray for you that the posts last well after your gone :)
Thanks for the comment. Yes there are quite a few different ways to attach posts. I'm not completely sold on brackets. Main thing I wish I could have gotten an extra 1/2 cy of concrete to pour higher and slope away from the timber. If that was in place, a very small amount of water would make it in the crack between the concrete and the post. You could even seal it with silicon caulk if you wanted to.
Is the 40 amp breaker in a 100 amp breaker box??
Hey Neal thank you for the thoughtful video.. I am planning my own installation and wondering if the combiner box is necessary. I’d forego system monitoring to save the 800 they want for that box. I’m thinking a small sub panel could do the job? Is there another reason that I’d need the combiner box that I’m overlooking?
Josh Cole if this helps at all, here is the combiner box I bought from eBay for $500 new. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F174204561841
I think the most fun part of the solar setup is watching how much power you generate and you can also troubleshoot problems and underperformance of each individual panel. But I understand saving $500.
With that said, I don’t see a reason why a small sub panel to collect your branches wouldn’t work, but you might call enphase to be sure that the envoy system is not needed for initial setup or any other reason in terms of connecting and communication between the inverters and the power grid for net metering.
@@NealORussa Thanks for the reply, Neal. Really appreciate the video. And thanks for the direction - I’m planning to go with that combiner box.
@@NealORussa Hello,
How many amps is your main panel and garage subpanel? Did you do conduit between main panel and garage subpanel?
Thank you
@@Victor00013 I do not recall what those two panels are rated for amperage wise, but the main panel has a 200a incoming main breaker and a 100a breaker going to the garage subpanel. The garage subpanel does not have an incoming breaker. Those two panels were already installed when i bought the house, but yes there is underground conduit between them and i believe 00 gauge aluminum strand cable.
@@NealORussa Great job on your system!
Subpanel does not require to have incoming breaker or main breaker. If you have 100 amp breaker on main panel subpanel is rated for 100amp. I have exactly same set up only subpanel is on the pool house.
Did you place additional conduit between main panel and subpanel or used old (existing) one?
Thank you
Why would you use wooden posts on such a nice solar install? I think it's pretty inevitable the posts will eventually rot which will require some pretty decent amount of repair work later. As opposed to using aluminum posts which would pretty much last forever...
Ozzie, I definitely looked into aluminum posts, i figured i would need at least a 3" or 4" diameter pipe, and I was having trouble locating that material along with a proper way to fasten my beams and rafters to the pipes without spending a bunch of money. I did consider steel I beams since i have a welder and could fab mounting plates for the beams. Either way, I went with CCA ground contact treated posts. If they rot out, my plan is to put temp 4x4 post shoring on either side of a permanent post, cut out the rotted post, drill & epoxy in rebar into top of concrete foundations and pour a 6" layer of new concrete on top with a galv metal post anchor embedded in that concrete. Then I can install a new post, nail to the anchor embed and beams and repeat at each post. I figure that may take two or three days at the most and maybe $400.
Also, every aluminum racking supplier I talked to did not want me to build the racking off the ground for storage underneath. They all said their aluminum poles needed to have the low end of the panels like 1-2' off the ground unless they added a ton of X bracing and additional engineering drawings and $$$.
@@NealORussa I was going to ask the same question. Great job on the build. I will be using this as a reference for my project. I think you will be good because you filled the entire hole with concrete. if you built a form and brought the concrete above ground by 3-4'' they would never rot. I suggest you brush / soak the bottom of posts in used motor oil / diesel fuel 50/50 combo once the wood dries out. This too will greatly extend the life of the posts. it is not bad for the environment which I assume you know that.
Terry Rocks thanks Terry! Yes I wish I had gotten another yard or so of concrete to raise and slope the foundations. I’ll look into a wood sealant. If your moving forward with an install like this i would also recommend trying to find some plastic c shaped strips that would ship over the top of the rafters before installing unistrut. That may help protect them from weather more. Another commenter mentioned that. Thanks again and stay tuned for the one year update coming early September!
Mistake is why it leaked is because 3 cables come in the side, beginner mistake. Bring underneath this way water can't go up hill.
Agreed, definitely a good idea and something I mention in my 1 year review video!
are you able to see hourly production data?
thx already. nice vid
Thanks for Watching! Yes you can see production data broken down every 15 minutes. On the phone app when it shows all of the blue bars, each bar is a 15min interval and you can click and scroll through each bar and see the power generated during each 15min time span. You would have to add 4 of them up to get an hour's worth of data. I'm sure there's a way to do it online to see hourly vs 15min data.
Check out my video on the 1-year review to see the phone app and website data provided by Enphase Enlighten. th-cam.com/video/FrRgaBkJ_-Y/w-d-xo.html
@@NealORussa thanks so much for the immediate answer!
ill check out your other vid.
Have a question. In case the grid goes out. How you prevent the PV system to backfeed?
These enphase microinverters have backfeed protection where they will not supply power from the panel unless they sense 240v power coming to them from the panel/grid.
@@NealORussa Thanks very much. I've seen several videos and this one explain everything very well. It is really good. I can tell you put a lot of think planning it.
where did you source your supplies?
Hey there! I sourced most all of my solar materials from tandem solar systems inc. 805.262.2478
I think I got the iq combiner box off eBay, it was new and much cheaper than anywhere else I could find.
Unistrut, cabling, timber and most all hardware i sources locally from hardware stores and electrical supply houses.
With these microinverters; is the power parallel? Meaning when running from battery what is the continuous and peak sine wave output you will expect. Is it dependent on the size of the panel system? I was looking at string inverters, you know the ones that say 5kw continuous; 15kw peak etc.
This question may be a little over my head, but I'll give it a shot. The power coming out of the microinverters is 240v ac power so it can't go directly into a DC battery. The kw output varies every second depending on how much sun there is which in turn dictates how much energy the panels are producing at that given second. The square footage of my panels can provide a maximum of 8.37kw (310w/panel x 27 panels = 8,370w). That is lab conditions. The highest I've ever seen this summer was around 6,700w output. In terms of parallel or series, each of my 3 strings of 9 inverters are wired in series, so the output amperage of each inverter adds together until the end of the string. So 9 inverters in a string can produce about 12amps max at 1.31amp max per inverter. You might try watching my diy solar design video and see if that helps anymore. Thanks for watching!
@@NealORussa thank you, I will need to research into this more. I’ve been debating into a string vs microinverter, I need true off grid capability with grid tie in
@@__SKYNET__ the new enphase iq8 inverters have ability to run on grid and off grid (without a battery bank!). They are not available yet, but you can research and wait for them. Otherwise you can use the iq7+ micros I used, and then get the Enphase ensemble which switches from grid to battery power during grid outage. Basically the ensemble takes in your pv array, battery bank and grid condition and utilizes all three appropriately based on what power needs are, state of battery charge and grid availability.
@@NealORussa thank you, I’m not in a rush, will definitely wait for it iq8, and then research those; do have large power requirements. Are you able to run all household appliances, central air, large garage equipment (eg welders etc)
@@__SKYNET__ I'm connected to the grid with my system so if i require more energy than my array provides, i get the power from the grid. So i dont have any problem running my appliances and garage equipment. I designed the system to cover my yearly average household electrical usage. But then about 6 months after i installed the system, i bought an electric car that i charge every day, so I kinda blew it out of the water!
How much would you estimate as the cost of this entire system?
I have a detailed spreadsheet of all costs. Total for materials purchased was right at $13,200 and I had about 100 manhours in the installation. I just received the 30% federal tax rebate on my 2019 taxes as well.
Sir, actually I have 19 micro ..n'd how can i,connected in multi phase system
I guess you could run one string of 10 panels and 1 string of 9 panels, i don't think it would make any difference. The strings would just have different amperages but they would combine together anyways in the IQ combiner box. Thanks for watching!
Could you come to my house and do one
Elden, it's a DIY project!
Such a waste of building material. A roof under the panels would have made great storage lean-to for an RV or equipment, future pole barn..
Well I wouldn't call it a waste. I still do store equipment under it. It's not really tall enough for much else. I think it has 6'3" clearance. Its main function is solar racking, and it does a great job at that!
@@NealORussa could this application be good for over an outdoor living space? I'm wondering how much water still makes through the gaps of the panels. Could a simple underside gutter system work?
@@jackehlers8275 it drips during rain. If I were to do it again I would use something like this. www.dekdrain.com/
32.09: The red light indicates you are not producing power cause the panels are in the shade. If that's true, you have a crappy system. Even with shade the panels should produce power, less than with sunshine of course, but still they should produce power. If they don't than, as I wrote, it is a crappy system.
Start watching around 3:10 and you'll see the large tree that blocks the sun late in the day.